Is there a thread (or maybe somewhere on this site but I have looked and it seems this thread is just for the ready made kits for sale) on how to take out the hot swap from the PSU and make your own poles?

The hot swap is held on by a couple of screws. Very straight forward. It is also connect with 2 wires that you simply cut and isolate then remove the ribbon connection from the hot swap. I used the screws to attach the L channel with the binding posts.

Harry

thanks. is that all then? sounds easy enough.. i'm kinda thinking of pairing up the other psu as well for a 24v power supply.
if i do that though, and i just need 12v - can i power just one of them? or both will need be powered on when they've been hooked up together?

Originally Posted by muscleflex

thanks. is that all then? sounds easy enough.. i'm kinda thinking of pairing up the other psu as well for a 24v power supply.
if i do that though, and i just need 12v - can i power just one of them? or both will need be powered on when they've been hooked up together?

The answers to all your questions can be found in this thread and this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581061

I'm getting a small shock when I touch the case of my supply, any ideas? should I just insulate the PS in a housing (im gonna use a plastic tool box). I was barefoot and in my basement so Im sure that was helping a little with me conducting. Do these hacked PS's need grounded?

Originally Posted by nebwake

I'm getting a small shock when I touch the case of my supply, any ideas? should I just insulate the PS in a housing (im gonna use a plastic tool box). I was barefoot and in my basement so Im sure that was helping a little with me conducting. Do these hacked PS's need grounded?

What has been changed from its original configuration?

Originally Posted by nebwake

I'm getting a small shock when I touch the case of my supply, any ideas? should I just insulate the PS in a housing (im gonna use a plastic tool box). I was barefoot and in my basement so Im sure that was helping a little with me conducting. Do these hacked PS's need grounded?

Some power supplies are modified to disconnect the Output - (return) from Chassis/Safety ground, in order to be able to put them in series connection (for 24V).

From a safety perspective, the case/chassis should always be grounded, independent of whether the power supply output return is chassis referenced or floating.
If the chassis is allowed to 'float', it can end up any any potential, sometimes hundreds of volts relative to the outputs or earth/safety ground.

I followed the instructions here

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=358340&page=2

That is kinda what I thought. How are you guys grounding them out a the field? saltwater and a grounding stake like a HAM radio?

Originally Posted by ltc

Some power supplies are modified to disconnect the Output - (return) from Chassis/Safety ground, in order to be able to put them in series connection (for 24V).

From a safety perspective, the case/chassis should always be grounded, independent of whether the power supply output return is chassis referenced or floating.
If the chassis is allowed to 'float', it can end up any any potential, sometimes hundreds of volts relative to the outputs or earth/safety ground.

There is a distinction between a (safety) ground and a return.

The fundamental idea is to ensure that you are not the inadvertent return path for potentially lethal current. This is usually accomplished by ensuring that accessible metal (chassis) is always at a known potential and capable of handling fault return current.

Most of the time it is seldom an issue.

Got it.... so the short answer I simply not to stick your toungue on it

Where are you guys getting your jacks from?


I think I may step up to 40amps.

Originally Posted by stgdz

Where are you guys getting your jacks from?


I think I may step up to 40amps.

Not the cheapest or closest (Australia) but I bought 50amp jacks here: http://madelectronics.com.au/shop/in...ort=20a&page=2

I couldn't find similar ones anywhere in the states. These work very well.

I'm going insane with this
I went ahead and purchased two more PS thinking one of the previous ones was bad. The problem still there. I've read all 37 pages on this post ( DPS-600PB Builds - hints, tips and build plans) looking for clues. I've tried Lardog's wiring scheme, 123 to GND and 458 shorted. No dice.

Would someone please post an wiring guide for this PS for dummies. I really need it. I must be doing something wrong, but I'm obviously overlooking it. I Think I've tried every combination possible with the darn ribbon. The power outlet or the multimeter are both ok, I can probe a friends Dell dual PS and the voltages on it are steady. Why is it only when the units are touching.

Here's a short video of the voltage variation. Wired 1,2,3,4,5 to GND. All other ribbon wiring combinations get same result. DPS-600PB Voltage Fluctuation.mp4 (1 min 13 sec)

There must be something simple you are overlooking. I know you have posted in the other thread but if you start by doing what rchelijc did in post #8 (photo) http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581061
and have removed the hot swap, cut and insulated the 2 wires that were connected to the hot swap, all is left is the ribbon cable. Are you sure you are viewing the cable numbering correctly starting with the red wire in the upper left corner and reading from right to left going down the cable? I grounded 1&2 directly to the ground post and jumped 4,5 &8 together (as you know, there are other ways). Check for continuity. Since you have 4 of these and you can't get it to work, there must be something you are overlooking. Good luck.

Harry