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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:25 PM
Go Huskies!
Camas, WA
Joined Dec 2009
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Any ETA on when the kits will be available again?
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchelijc View Post
Do you know why that is the case? That higher voltages trigger cutoffs at lower currents?
I suspect its because the power supply is hitting the over voltage cutoff during the "quiet period" where charge very briefly cuts off the current to get a correct voltage reading from the pack. Going from heavily loaded (40 amps) to less than an amp rapidily is likely too fast for the voltage regulation in the supply to correct before OVP kicks in. On lightly loaded supply the, loaded voltage is much lower, so there is less voltage correction required during the quiet period. On your PL8, look at the power supply graph. You'll see two lines, loaded and unloaded. The unloaded is how high the supply "bounces" during the quiet period.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 12:16 AM
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rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
762 Posts
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Originally Posted by Gregor99 View Post
I suspect its because the power supply is hitting the over voltage cutoff during the "quiet period" where charge very briefly cuts off the current to get a correct voltage reading from the pack. Going from heavily loaded (40 amps) to less than an amp rapidily is likely too fast for the voltage regulation in the supply to correct before OVP kicks in. On lightly loaded supply the, loaded voltage is much lower, so there is less voltage correction required during the quiet period. On your PL8, look at the power supply graph. You'll see two lines, loaded and unloaded. The unloaded is how high the supply "bounces" during the quiet period.
Ahah - that explains a lot. There was once that I started a full load charge at 13.8V and all was going nicely for a few seconds. Then I decided to 'end' the test by hitting stop and suddenly, one PS goes into standby. My guess at that time was the sudden stop triggered an overvoltage of the PS causing it to shut down.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 05:29 PM
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USA, AK, Houston
Joined Aug 2005
789 Posts
I don't know when I'll be able to make more kits. They are pretty time consuming to make since I have to machine some plates, then cut wires, crimp 13 connections, burn a DVD, box them up, and build headers. It takes me about 35 minutes per kit which means I really need to find 5-6 hours to build another batch, which doesn't sound like a lot of time, but I'm really that busy at work.

I'm really glad to see rchlijc run with this and spend more time developing. All of the information you need to build your own is in this thread. What I offer (when I offer it) is convenience since a kit can be installed in 30 minutes and it's polished and ready to go.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 08:10 PM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jan 2012
74 Posts
no worries, i've already ordered the parts to make my own. i know what its like to be strapped for time. thank you!
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 04:29 AM
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rchelijc's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
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Originally Posted by akschu View Post
I don't know when I'll be able to make more kits. They are pretty time consuming to make since I have to machine some plates, then cut wires, crimp 13 connections, burn a DVD, box them up, and build headers. It takes me about 35 minutes per kit which means I really need to find 5-6 hours to build another batch, which doesn't sound like a lot of time, but I'm really that busy at work.

I'm really glad to see rchlijc run with this and spend more time developing. All of the information you need to build your own is in this thread. What I offer (when I offer it) is convenience since a kit can be installed in 30 minutes and it's polished and ready to go.
I understand exactly where you're coming from akschu. For those with a little soldering skills and some electrical (safety) knowledge, I've provided all the info you need to build the PS of your dreams out of these devices. For those without, find a buddy who knows and I'm sure it'll be done over a bottle (or two).

I've had lots of offers, nice money, business propositions - frankly not worth the effort. It's fun to do it yourself though, and chuckle at the savings made
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 10:15 AM
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United States, MD, Lexington Park
Joined Jun 2002
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Originally Posted by ndamico View Post
no worries, i've already ordered the parts to make my own. i know what its like to be strapped for time. thank you!
ndamico,

Are you getting all your parts from a single source? A detailed parts list including part number and vendor (DigiKey, etc...) would be really useful for the thread.

I'm not sure if DigiKey offers the ability to share a wish list but if they do it would make ordering up a kit a snap.

Also is there any chance of getting that instructional video uploaded to YouTube? Save the time and cost of burning DVDs and help get the safe information out there.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 11:35 AM
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United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Jan 2012
74 Posts
i bought the binding posts from Mouser.com. Digikey was out of stock. the mouser part # is 565-6883.

i got wire here:

http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...q5d101n4eqd1d1

the above link is red 12AWG but they have black too.

ring terminals i got at west marine:

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50568

they are local to me. the ring terminals they sell aren't cheap but i can't stand crappy ones. i like the ones with integrated heat shrink. sometimes i use the standard terminal, pull off the plastic insulation then crimp, solder, and add my own heat shrink.

to cut the trace on the board i used a dremel fiberglass cut-off wheel. much easier than a hobby knife IMHO.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-456-Rei.../dp/B0006O8RZA

the aluminum stock i got at ace hardware. it comes pre-bent. just cut it with a chop saw to length.


the rest of the pieces i found in my spare parts box so i didn't have to source them. maybe someone else will post a link to the zener diode, pin header, and plastic screw/washer they purchased.

i am doing a second set using the dell 6650 power supplies (86GNR). more power, quieter fan, and you don't have to isolate the ground inside. only downside is they are bigger and they use a plug with a C13 (250V) connector which isn't hard to find.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Reaper802 View Post
ndamico,

Are you getting all your parts from a single source? A detailed parts list including part number and vendor (DigiKey, etc...) would be really useful for the thread.

I'm not sure if DigiKey offers the ability to share a wish list but if they do it would make ordering up a kit a snap.

Also is there any chance of getting that instructional video uploaded to YouTube? Save the time and cost of burning DVDs and help get the safe information out there.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:19 PM
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USA, AK, Houston
Joined Aug 2005
789 Posts
I have some those 6650 and feel that they are much better power supplies from an electrical standpoint, but the HP ones are much easier to build into a portable power supply due to the size and cost.

I think my next project will be to build a 24vdc generator for the field. I want to get a 24v single wire alternator, a small ATV battery and a 5hp honda engine and get something that will put out 28v at 2000 watts all day long.

Hopefully it won't be terribly noisy.

schu
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:31 PM
You're killin' me Smalls
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United States, NJ, Hillsborough Township
Joined Sep 2011
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Talk to everydayflyer I think he's got one like that he built from inventory. Could likely make one much quieter if you broadened component choices.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:55 PM
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USA, AK, Houston
Joined Aug 2005
789 Posts
I'm a pretty good mechanic/fabricator and have a lot of metal tools. I won't have any problems building one, the biggest issue is that these little air cooled engines make a lot of engine noise, so no matter how much you muffle them, you they still don't get really quiet.

The reason why the inverter generators are so quiet (other than they have a lot of insulation) is that they run the engine at a much lower rpm because they don't need to be governed at 3600 rpm.

Looks like I can get the amps I want (60A) at 2500 rpm if I use a good alternator. That is around 1500 watts or 2hp. So if I get a 5.5hp engine with a really flat torque curve and assume at 2000 rpm I can see 6ftlbs from it, then that puts the HP at 2.28hp.

So I think I can get it pretty quiet if I use a 0.8:1 or 1:1 pulley on it and run it at much lower rpms.

I may look for a dual voltage alternator from a marine application. Some will charge 12v and 24v batteries at the same time. That would allow me to run my 12v chargers at the same time.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 04:52 PM
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United States, MD, Lexington Park
Joined Jun 2002
438 Posts
Just picked up 2 power supplies for $27.00 shipped. Let the games begin!
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 05:04 PM
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United States, MD, Lexington Park
Joined Jun 2002
438 Posts
And now an iCharger 306B is on the way!
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 11:39 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
6 Posts
removing output board

I have all the parts to make my own 24 v power supply and I want to thank all involved . Now for the hard part, If I remove the output board, How do I short out the pins to turn this thing on. Pictures would be great as I have trouble with understanding the written explaniton
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 11:42 AM
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United States, MD, Lexington Park
Joined Jun 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyd12 View Post
I have all the parts to make my own 24 v power supply and I want to thank all involved . Now for the hard part, If I remove the output board, How do I short out the pins to turn this thing on. Pictures would be great as I have trouble with understanding the written explaniton
Everything you should need can be found here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581061
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