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Old Jan 27, 2011, 01:53 AM
Electric Helis is my game
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Lidingo, Sweden
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Originally Posted by MrMel View Post
Grounding semi-helped, now I got no contact with the charger, but no garbage which I had before grounding.

I got a scope so I will check out how it looks compared to my "working one"
To conclude this, problem was two-fold, both transmission of noise from the PS via the DC cable (grounding fixed that one), plus transmission via air by proximity to USB stuff that is not shielded good enough.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 12:07 AM
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This is fantastic, thanks for posting this! I really don't like soldering to the connectors on the breakout board, this is so much cleaner. I'm glad I saw this tonight, I was about to set mine up the usual way soldering on the outside but now I'd much prefer to do it this way.

I was wondering if you might post some pictures of the inside of one of your supplies and tell us a bit about how you went about removing the breakout board. It looks like it is screwed in from the back side and that the whole main board would need to come out of the chassis to take those out. It also looks like the metal brackets connecting to the main board are soldered in place so would need to be desoldered. You say with your full kit no soldering would be required so I'm assuming you use a screw to attach the internal jumpers to the main board?

How far off do you suppose you are on shipping kits? I'd jump on it the second you're ready.
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 01:07 PM
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I just got a notice from the post office that the rest of the parts are in. I should be able to get the instructional video done today and a few kits packaged up. So I hope to be ready monday.

schu
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 05:51 PM
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Just got the first two kits built. One short kit and one full kit. Prices are $28 for the short kit shipped, and $45 for the full kit shipped.

To install the short kit you will need:

Drill
Drill bits
pliers
screwdrivers
soldering iron
wire
connectors
crimpers
shrink tubing
multimeter

To install the full kit you will need:

Screwdrivers
pliers
multimeter

The meter is just to make sure everything is hooked up correctly before you power it on.

You can see in the pictures that the full kit is very complete. Just bolt it in. I wanted to charge a little less for these things, but the little screws and washers and headers and stuff all add up and by the time you add shipping and paypal fees, that's what it ends up being.

I'll probably only do a single run of these, I barely make anything on them and the full kit takes me a good 30 minutes to build.

Anyway, here are the pictures (please note that the full kit is shown in parallel mode, it can be wired in serial mode by removing the wires and installing them between the middle two posts):
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Old Jan 29, 2011, 05:53 PM
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I'm just waiting on my power supplies to show up so that I can install the kit and make the instructional video. After the kit is installed I'll be ready to sell the first 10 kits. I'll also sell one of the power supply sets. It will be $100 without shipping.

Thanks,
schu
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 03:28 AM
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I overlooked something that explains my source of confusion regarding removal of the hot plug board. There are (at least) two different power supplies sold as ESP135:
PS-3601-1C which I have 2 of
DPS-600PB which TJinGuy has posted on his website. I believe akschu may be using these also

It seems the DPS-600PB has the metal bars that attach to the hot plug board connected to a pair of standoffs on the main board using a screw driven in from the top.

PS-3601-1C on the other hand has no standoffs. The metal bars are screwed in from the underside of the main board, and are also soldered to the main board on the top side. This means they probably can't be removed without pulling the whole main board out of the chassis. An alternative would be to cut the bars close to the main board and solder to what's left.

I'll post some pictures of the PS-3601-1C tomorrow.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Yes, mine have the bars with screws. This is why you can install the kit I developed without any soldering.

As far as I know they are the same as feather merchant.

I wonder if the external dimensions are the same. Hopefully I'll be able to tell when you post them.

When I buy my supplies I specifically look for the DL380 G4 575 watt power supplies.

schu
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 02:09 PM
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I believe these are made to be interchangable with the DPS-600B power supplies. They both carry the ESP135 tag and provide +12V 47A. It looks like they only have subtle differences from the outside, such as fan position. External connectors are the same. Mine seems to be manufactured by LiteOn, I'm not sure who makes the DPS-600B.

Here are some pictures of the outside and inside of the power supply. Unfortunately this forum software always seems to rotate pictures taken by my phone oddly. This power supply has a very similar setup for connecting the hot plug board, but the bars extend all the way down to the board and get soldered and screwed in rather than using the standoffs.

If you have any guidance on getting the main board out of the case that would be helpful. I was thinking that perhaps I could simply cut the bars, and then use some nuts to attach a set of ring terminals to the main board. There may not be enough threads exposed on the existing screw to do that though. If I can pull the board, I could completely remove the bar, and then reuse the screw and a nut to attach a terminal to the board.

So, I'm fairly certain your kit will still work, it will just require a bit of additional work due to the way the bars are set up in these power supplies. It's possible, although not certain, that the pinout for the header could be different too. I suppose I'll also need to find out where the DC ground is tied to the case so that I can disconnect it.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 02:57 PM
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That is the first one of those I have seen. It does look like an interchangeable unit to the DPS-600PB units, carrying the same series number.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 04:14 PM
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I've just finished doing some bench testing. The pinout on ribbon cable looks to be a bit different on this supply. I probed the connectors on hot plug board and the header and found that shorting pins 3,5,6 does the trick. It does not appear that the hot plug board connects any of the pins on the ribbon cable to ground. I connected to DC ground and probed all pins on the hot plug board header and did not find any connections. Pin 1 (the red wire) coming from the main board side is to ground.

As for floating the DC ground, the screw on the left side of the main board, closest to the hot plug board, appears to be responsible for connecting DC ground to the case. After removing this screw, I found no continuity between DC ground and the case, nor DC ground and AC ground. It does seem however that there is a contact on the back side of the main board that connects to the case when the screw is holding it down. Pushing down on the board caused the DC ground to become connected to the case again. In order to eliminate that I'll need to attach something to the underside of the board to isolate that connection from the case, so it looks like I need to revisit removing the main board. Still don't have that figure out. I'm obviously missing something.

Removing the green wire from the case did not eliminate the AC ground. There must be another connection that I can't see. I don't think it is worth tracking down though, as floating the DC ground was quite easy.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 04:38 PM
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I have added some info on this second unit to my article.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Yea, those look very different on the onside, and a little different on the outside. I doubt my kit would work because the dc ground is on both of the front mounts and because the pin header I have wired up probably won't power it on.

I'll post more tomorrow when I get more supplies.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 07:52 PM
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I was finally able to extract the guts of the power supply from the chassis. I will cover the contact used to attach DC ground to the chassis in liquid electrical tape. The screws on the main board that attach to the bars leading to the hot plug board are pretty well covered in solder. There's also a lot of solder around them, so I may end up not removing them. My next step is to desolder and unscrew the hot plug board (at the hot plug board side, not the main board). From there I may either use screws to attach ring terminals to the bars, or go back to plan A and cut them down, and then solder leads on to what remains.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 08:24 PM
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Yea, those look very different on the onside, and a little different on the outside. I doubt my kit would work because the dc ground is on both of the front mounts and because the pin header I have wired up probably won't power it on.

I'll post more tomorrow when I get more supplies.
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Old Jan 30, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akschu View Post
Yea, those look very different on the onside, and a little different on the outside. I doubt my kit would work because the dc ground is on both of the front mounts and because the pin header I have wired up probably won't power it on.

I'll post more tomorrow when I get more supplies.
EDIT:
I get an open between the DC ground and that mount, I don't see any electrical connections to it. I have a working connection on the header, so now would just need to get a connector properly wired up.
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Last edited by Aralan; Jan 30, 2011 at 09:29 PM.
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