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Old Jan 05, 2011, 03:23 PM
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scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
Idea
Slow Ride (like the one in afpd)

I discovered the Slow Ride in Aerofly Pro Deluxe a few weeks ago and loved the way it flew. So naturally I got online and looked for plans. Nothing. I couldn't believe it. Doing a search yielded a few photos (and a few requests for plans). Anyway, I decided this would be my next project. I took snapshots of the 3-views in afpd (under "Edit Aircraft"), imported the shots into gimp, blew them up to "full size" and took them to Staples to print out.

About 10 days later, here is the result.


I am really happy with the way this airplane flies!

Here are the hard details:
Wing-span: 32.75"
Length: 33.5"
Flying Weight: 7 ounces

Now, comparing that to the sim version (below), it's a little heavier and has a hair less wing area, but I swear it flies as nice as the sim!

Construction is EPP for the fuselage (3mm skin on 6mm frame) and Depron for all flying surfaces (3mm). I chose to do this to limit the amount of carbon fiber required and for durability.

Now I don't have actual plans, but I made templates and took careful notes and measurements. I'm hoping someone can help me convert these to plans. I also took tons of photos of the build and will post a bunch here over the next few days. In the mean time, I hope you enjoy the video.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 06:07 PM
TonyS
United States, AR
Joined May 2010
602 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyo View Post
I discovered the Slow Ride in Aerofly Pro Deluxe a few weeks ago and loved the way it flew. So naturally I got online and looked for plans. Nothing. I couldn't believe it. Doing a search yielded a few photos (and a few requests for plans). Anyway, I decided this would be my next project. I took snapshots of the 3-views in afpd (under "Edit Aircraft"), imported the shots into gimp, blew them up to "full size" and took them to Staples to print out.

Well a lot more happened, which I'll describe below over the next few days, but here is the result.


I am really happy with the way this airplane flies!

Here are the hard details:
Wing-span: 32.75"
Length: 33.5"
Flying Weight: 7 ounces

Now, comparing that to the sim version (below), it's a little heavier and has a hair less wing area, but I swear it flies as nice as the sim!

Construction is EPP for the fuselage (3mm skin on 6mm frame) and Depron for all flying surfaces (3mm). I chose to do this to limit the amount of carbon fiber required and for durability.

Now I don't have actual plans, but I made templates and took careful notes and measurements. I'm hoping someone can help me convert these to plans. I also took tons of photos of the build and will post a bunch here over the next few days. In the mean time, I hope you enjoy the video.
Great idea, well designed and built! I look forward to more details.

TonyS
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:09 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
templates

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonystro View Post
Great idea, well designed and built! I look forward to more details.
TonyS
Thanks! More follows....

[Edit: Important note - I don't take credit for the original Slow Ride design. If you notice on the sim planes's wings, it says "slow-flyer.com". While I was researching this, I went to the site and couldn't find any information. But later, I went back and found some photos. Evidently Sascha Fliegener, the owner of the site, used to produce Slow Ride kits several years ago. However, he has moved on to giant scale and the kits are no longer available.]


The two full-size images I took to Staples are shown below. I had them printed out in gray scale and they looked fine while I was in Staples. I didn't think to measure the actual printouts while I was there...

Turns out the top view was correct, but the other one had been reduced slightly in size. The wings were only 30 inches. At first I thought about building one that size, but I really wanted the full size and I didn't have a matching top view for making the crutch etc. The top view would have been fine for wings and horizontal stab, but I had no matching side view. It was christmas weekend and my car was "down"....
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:33 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
tiled PDFs (Note: These are not plans yet)

...so I did some searching and found a way to make tiled pdfs from jpg files. (I use Linux at home so the solution is unique to that operating system.) I set about taking the individual jpgs that made up the 1st photo above, "edge-enhancing" them, and converting them to tiled pdfs. I used the other printout from above for reference and for getting measurements on fuse width etc. Turns out that my pdfs were still off a hair. My wings were 32.75" instead of 33.8". I decided I could live with it. I was itchin' to build!

I've attached the tiled pdfs below in case anyone wants to try their hand at making their own templates. I will probably remove these files if plans become available.

Note: I made some modifications as I cut my templates. I'll try to detail those below.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:41 AM
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doggit's Avatar
northenden, manchester, england
Joined May 2009
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have a look at these 2 maybe you could incorperate some of these into your build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1046798
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206174
carl
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 03:33 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
wings and hstab

Making templates for the horizontal pieces was fairly straight-forward. Because the edge-detect algorithm I used in gimp didn't make the surfaces exactly symmetrical, I decided to go with half-templates (this also meant that a template would fit on standard poster board). When laid out, I could just flip the template over the centerline and have my symmetry.

To make the templates, I taped the necessary tiles together, sprayed the back with 3m 45 (photo mounting spray), and attached to the poster board. I then took my steel rulers and made as many strait lines out of the edges as possible (much easier to cut both templates and foam that way).

I did make a couple of modifications on the top wing. The hinge line on the bottom wing is straight across the whole width of the wing . This made it nice for the bottom wing. When cutting the ailerons, I could make the bevel as I cut and then swap ailerons with no problem. The top wing was not so nice. The trailing edge was straight across, but the hinge line was at an angle on each side. So I decided to "straighten out" that hinge line as well. I made a measurement on the bottom aileron where the aileron connector attaches and found it to be 84mm wide at that point. I made a mark on the top wing where the aileron connector attaches to ensure it was 84mm from TE to hinge (it was already very close to that). I then drew a line thru that mark parallel to the TE and perpendicular to the outer edge of the wing. That was my new hinge line (see photo below). Now I could swap the ailerons on the top wing as well.

The other modification I made was to make the "rounded-out" portion of the wing to blend smoothly into the inside edge of the aileron. (Fewer corners for the depron to crack at).

Cutting these surfaces out was quick and easy. I went ahead and hinged them while I was there. 1" blenderm on the underside (where the bevel was), and 1/2" blenderm on the top.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 03:42 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by doggit View Post
have a look at these 2 maybe you could incorperate some of these into your build http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1046798
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1206174
carl
Oh...so many planes...so little time...Thanks! I actually have seen both of these. My goal here though was to make a bipe as close to the one in the simulator as possible. I did incorporate several techniques from some of firetrappe's and leadfeather's builds. (In particular, some from firetrappe's infineon thread.) And as I mentioned above, I'm very happy with the way my Slow Ride flew in the gym the other night.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 03:56 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
reinforcing the wing

The only reinforcement placed on the actual wings was 3mm x 0.5mm carbon fiber strips applied to the leading edge. I used Loctite Stik'n Seal Ultra, but Uhu Por (Creativ) would work too. I used an emory board to round off any "corners" near the center of the LE. The lower wing was easy to glue all at once. The upper wing has a sharper bend at the center so I glued it half at a time. I also found it easier to cut off the excess carbon after the glue dried, than to try to cut the carbon to exactly the right length.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 04:59 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
fuselage and tail templates

The templates for the fuselage took quite a bit longer to come up with. For one thing, both fuse and tail would not fit on one standard poster board. For another, I had to make decisions about how to tie the EPP fuselage into the depron tail. I also needed to have an idea about the internal structure since this was going to be a "full-fuse" airplane.

The templates shown below have lots of marking on them. Once again, I tried to make as many straight lines on the outline as possible for ease of cutting. (However I did want the canopy, chin, and cowl to retain much of their curves.)

Once I decided where the crutch and some of the formers would go, I allowed the template to be split behind the rear former. Since the fuse outline edges are all a continuation of straight lines beyond that former, I just used the pinhole method to mark the rear corners of the epp fuse sides. The cutoff portion became the template for the depron vertical tail. To mark the epp sides, I just placed the tail template next to the separated side template and marked the pin holes.

There are also two pinholes on top of the crutch position marked on the templates (one at either end). [These are to mark to place a line for gluing cf flats later.]
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:07 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
crutch, cabane, and football templates

The crutch template evolved over time. The photo below is the latest. (And it's also the template for the lower rear portion of the bottom of the fuse.)

I didn't want to locate the crutch at the thrust line, because that would put it too high inside the fuse. I located it so that it would provide support (and gluing surface) for the horizontal stab. Note that the crutch is positioned just above the overall hstab slot and goes back to the right end of the depron vstab slot. [Edit: I just noticed that the tail template is misaligned in the photo below but if it were lined up, the crutch is like I said .]

I designed the plane around a cheap 2204/14 motor and wanted to mount it "x" style like on profile foamies (a hacker would work well too). So I needed to provide both horizontal and vertical pieces to do that. The vertical piece was designed as part off the cabane support. The horizontal piece helps give the Slow Ride it's distinctive "bulging engine" look. I really wanted to keep that look. If I build another one, I think I'll make the football a little narrower with less abrupt taper at the rear. Anyway, the cabane and football fit together in slotted fashion. [Edit: I also noticed that I used the pinhole, notch method on the cabane, but cut out the slot on the football - oh well.]

Note: If you are going to use a different motor or motor mounting method, you will probably need to adjust these last two templates. My method doesn't allow for a plywood firewall for example.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:18 AM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
A word about glues

I used Welder adhesive for all EPP to EPP and CF to EPP joining.

I used Loctite Ultra adhesive for all depron to depron, EPP to depron, and CF to depron joints. (Welder will melt depron.)

It would be fine to use the Loctite Ultra for everything. I just like the workability of Welder a little better.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 05:43 PM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
formers and top templates

The photo below shows the former templates in their relative positions (along the crutch with the nose to the right). Not a lot to say here, but notice that all the lower formers and the rear upper former are rectangular (bottom same width as top). The two front upper formers begin a taper 24mm from the crutch. There are bevels on the sides of the 4 formers on the left (to match the angles of the sides, top, and bottom. Note the cutout on the lower TE-former. This is to allow ventilation thru to the exit hole in the bottom (which will be cut out later).

The top template has a slot at the rear for the vstab and a slot near the front for the cabane. The top piece is one of the last to go in. The template is made long at the front, the excess foam will be cut off flush with the fuse sides after the glue dries.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:05 PM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
Building the Fuse - Step 1: CF reinforcement.

Cut out two pieces of 3mm epp using the side templates. Don't forget the slot and mark the two pinholes designating the ends of the crutch. Connect the dots with a sharpee (lightly) and straight edge. Use this line to measure and cut two pieces of 3mm x .5mm CF. Glue the cf on the top of the line with Welder adhesive. These two strips provide vertical rigidity to the fuse and allow you to line up the sides with the crutch while gluing. (Learned this technique from a build of Dave Roid's Ultimate that was published in the December 2009 issue of RCM&E.)

[Note: when I mark the sides, I flip the template over to mark the second one. That way, my marks can all be "inside" the fuse, and won't show after assembly.]

Cut out the crutch (6mm epp) and all slots. Bevel the nose under (to match the outline on the side template). Then measure, cut, and glue a 3mm x .5mm CF flat centered on the underside of the crutch. This will provide a horizontal rigidity to the fuse.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:30 PM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
Building the Fuse - Step 2: Add the cabane and upper formers.

Cut out the cabane (6mm epp) and use a scrap piece of 0.5mm thick cf to reinforce the trailing edge. (I think I had a piece of 5mm laying around, but anything from 3mm to 6mm is fine.)

Place some marks on the center-line of the upper side of the crutch to help properly align the cabane. (Be sure the crutch CF is turned down.)

Glue the cabane in place, being careful to keep it perpendicular to the crutch.

Cut out the cabane former (6mm epp), and glue it to both the crutch and the cabane as shown.

Cut out the rear upper formers (6mm epp), being careful to bevel the sides and top as necessary. Mark the crutch to match the former locations on the side template. Glue rear formers in place.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 07:06 PM
Ahh...the smell of electrons!
scottyo's Avatar
Finger Lakes in NY
Joined Sep 2007
141 Posts
Building the Fuse - Step 3: Glue the crutch to one side panel.

Notice that the crutch has 3 sections, a center section that is 50mm wide, a rear section that tapers to the tail slot, and a forward section that tapers to the nose.

Apply glue to the center and forward sections of one of the crutch sides, and to the lower 24mm of the cabane former on that side. (Don't apply glue behind the center section yet!) Line up the top of the crutch edge with the bottom edge of the CF strip on the appropriate side panel and glue in place. Use a thin wedge of epp (cut-offs from the nose of the crutch are exactly the right size for this if you saved them) to "prop up" the forward section of the side panel as shown. Press down and prop as necessary until the glue sets.

After the glue cures, pick up the assembly and apply glue to the rear section of the crutch side, the lower 24mm of the middle former, and the entire height of the rear former. Lay the assembly back down, making sure to allgn the remainder of the crutch with the remainder of the cf strip on the side panel. Prop an appropriate thickness of material under the nose of the assembly in order to force the rear portion to hold contact. (I used a 3m sanding block that worked perfectly when slid under the nose far enough.) Once again, press down and adjust as necessary until the glue sets.

(Thanks to firetrappe's infineon thread for this gluing technique!)
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