Originally Posted by Doug W

Eyebrow windows= chicks. Chicks dig eyebrow windows, it's a scientific fact.

No eyebrow windows? You better at least have flaps, maybe spoilers or no chicks.

Now, that having been said, they deleted them on production series some time ago, which is a shame really, because now all the Boeing Renton employees are without chicks.

In reality, the only thing they were good for is baking the crew at the gate and blinding them enroute...

(We really do have the nerdiest hobby, I must admit...still, I love it!)

Never laughed so hard..then realized....TRUE!

Originally Posted by N437D

I'm looking into getting one of these kits. I just have a few questions from the members here.
1) Where did everyone get their kits from? ( I've found 2-3 others beside windrider that carry WR's 737)
2) Do the kits come with the 10-11 blade fans as stock? (photos show 4 blade fans)
3) Any thing else needed to know?

Thanks.

I got my kit direct from Ming. Inquire directly with others whether they have in stock or not. The 4 blade comes with the kit (if ordered with the fans). I bought the 10 blades separately (from Ming also). There is a very active thread here with lots of enthusiasm for the 10 blade, mostly due to it's great sound like a turbine, if done properly.

Answer to 3) - start reading post #1 of this thread. And I mean that seriously. I have my kit now, and I started re-reading today.

I really did start re-reading today in search of what lighting system to order. I liked Sergey and Spyro37 - really great, but I found they cheated! Sergey is an electronics genius and made his own controller - rats. Then helped Spyro, who also is an electronics genius - double rats. Several of their lights had strobe and they were synchronized to alternate, just like the real one (I presume like the real one - Sergey was very meticulous). I think simple ordinary static LED would be a bit boring compared to the correct strobe - especially the correct alternating sequence. The video of Spyro at dusk was awesome - the strobes showed up really well, just like they are supposed to.

Watch Spyro3's video at 5:30 and the maiden flight around 6:40 to end.

I NEED lights like that .

Any ideas for commercial products that provide the same true strobe looks for the correct lights, strobe, locations and colors? And alternating sequence? Or do we have to bribe Sergey to start production?

Derek

Windrider KLM BOEING 737 - How It's Made & Maiden Flight (12 min 44 sec)

I have bought these for a couple of my planes now:

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/night-flyi...-p-405040.html

I know Hobbyking have a set similar

Originally Posted by jakob k

I have bought these for a couple of my planes now:

http://www.giantcod.co.uk/night-flyi...-p-405040.html

I know Hobbyking have a set similar

That looks good and you can't go wrong with the price!

However, I noticed Spyro37's red and green wingtip lights were strobing. And that strobe was alternating with the strobe on the fuselage. Does anybody know the exact timing and sequence of all the lights? I think this Dimension Engineering DeLight starter kit can be programmed for any sequence. I don't mind spending the money to get it right.

Sergey posted many photos of the light locations on 737 here, but obviously you can't tell which ones strobe, and the timing sequence.

I don't know the exact sequence, bit I do know that the greens and red lights on the wingtips (position lights) should be steady. Behind the position lights are white strobe lights. In the tail you should have a steady white position light. Red anti-collision lights on the top and bottom of the fuselage should flash.

For those interested in when to turn on which lights:
position lights (red/green on wingtips, white on tail, all steady): always on
anti-collision lights (red on fuse, flashing): on at engine start, off at engine shutdown
strobe lights (white on wing tips): on when entering the runway, off when leaving the runway
taxi light: on at start of taxi taxi, off before takeoff, on after landing, off when approaching the gate
landing lights: on when cleared for takeoff, off after landing (and off above 10.000 ft )

Fotor,
Thanks, that's great help. The white wingtip strobes, "off when leaving the runway", do you mean leaving the runway as in lift-off? Or leaving the runway as in after the flight is over, thus the white strobes are on for the full flight including while on the runway?

I watched Spyro37's video again, starting at 5:30, and his green and red position lights at the leading edge of wingtip, flash twice. So, even though it looks cool, it's not technically correct. They should be steady. Then the red on fuselage flashes twice. Maybe it should only be once? I will just presume Spyro was going for cool effect and I'll try to figure out what is the correct sequence and timing. That DeLight system is supposedly fully programmable 6 channels for any sequence and duration using their software and USB link.

DerekB

you turn the strobes as you enter the runway for takeoff and
turn them off as you exit the runway after landing .



the mars rotating beacons one on top one under the fuse are
on when the engines are on - as statment states rotating beacons
which seem to flash at a steady rate

as fotor mentioned the position lights red /green /white are on steady
it helps tell you which way the other aircraft is traveling

I have found except for a good set of strobes its hard to see the
other lights during the bright part of the day

hey derekb i was having same lighting issue what to buy check out www.vcshobbies.com they sell a custom made lighting system for 50 bucks.they make it for an a330-300 plane that looks to be the same scale as ours.comes with the light covers to.didnt get mine yet has them on backorder gonna try it out.

Originally Posted by markyb13

hey derekb i was having same lighting issue what to buy check out www.vcshobbies.com they sell a custom made lighting system for 50 bucks.they make it for an a330-300 plane that looks to be the same scale as ours.comes with the light covers to.didnt get mine yet has them on backorder gonna try it out.

Is this the one you found: A330 Lighting Package/? I sent an email directly asking if I can buy one.

Originally Posted by pulsery2k1

DerekB

you turn the strobes as you enter the runway for takeoff and
turn them off as you exit the runway after landing .



the mars rotating beacons one on top one under the fuse are
on when the engines are on - as statment states rotating beacons
which seem to flash at a steady rate

as fotor mentioned the position lights red /green /white are on steady
it helps tell you which way the other aircraft is traveling

I have found except for a good set of strobes its hard to see the
other lights during the bright part of the day

I found this video on, where else, but youtube.

That's pretty cool how they create the effect that appears to be rotating.

Rotating Beacon LED Simulator with R/C control (on/off) (2 min 34 sec)

- My lights were not based on the full scale 737, which I purposely chose. It wasn't a kit either. Parts were purchased from different vendors. Brightness is visible even at 200feet during the day. I can still switch terminal plugs and add more lights, but I like it the way it is.

- Other mods I did that you guys might be interested: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-D4mm-L57...ht_2394wt_1068 used as landing gear wire. 737 will break on landing but not these.
If you want less work (not as strong) but won't bend unless you land really hard: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNNYSKY-220...ht_2223wt_1037

- Highly recommend these quality METAL gear servos for flaps use. I've been using them for while now with great experience. These will not "deteriorate" from the stress that the engine THRUST directed towards the flaps. After countless flights on my 737, my 9gram nylon flap servos are not performing the same anymore when they were new. Bad thing is, if the servos' torque are not equally the same, one wing will have more lift than the other . I got addicted to the flaps, and possibly caused to degrade it's (nylon gear servos) performance.
This is what I use now on my flaps, (& has been using them for my jets and balsa 3D planes). High torque, foam will break, but these won't "give". Just my 2 cents...
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3449694

- Spyro

Spyro,

You continue to amaze me with your ingenious resources!!

So we are on our own for lights , - that's OK . For the lights, I'm leaning towards the DELight system I linked above. Their LEDs are $5 each "15 lumens, 120 degree beam angle, half-watt surface mount LED, an appropriate current-limit resistor and a 24" lightweight wire pigtail terminating in a universal servo-type connector." Is this similar brightness to yours? Also, any other LED can be used.

The DELight controller can be programmed to activate the landing light with the retract switch.

For the retracts, I will order both shafts, but use the 3mm motor shafts first, for less work and see how it goes. I presume the C-clip from the stock gear will work on the 3mm shafts? I don't have any spares - do you have a link for C-clips for 3mm and 4mm shafts? Any other special parts for the gear mods?

I'd still like to know how you did the sequencer for the front gear doors .

The metal gear servo on the flaps is a great idea. I will get those since they experience constant force. Do you still like the Detrum/Dynam 9 gram servos for the other control surfaces?

Thanks,
Derek

Before ordering the DELight Starter Kit, I downloaded their DELink programming software to give it a try. Quite easy to use. For the fuselage, I managed to program the effect of a rotating beacon, and control exactly how long it stays on, how it ramps up, how bright, etc. And I sequenced the timing of the white wingtip strobes to occur in between the beacon strobe. Very cool and very flexible. And of course a Taxi light can be programmed to come on when the gear is down. It can do lots of other things also. 2 of the 6 the channels are 6 volts 2 amps - you could ignite some pyrotechnics!

For what you get, I think the price is right.

In the simulator window, you can import your own image to test and simulate moving the transmitter sticks/switches to see what comes on when.

Here's a screen shot, but of course it doesn't show you the beacon flashing or the strobes flashing!

Originally Posted by DerekB

Spyro,

You continue to amaze me with your ingenious resources!! Thanks

So we are on our own for lights , - that's OK . For the lights, I'm leaning towards the DELight system I linked above. Their LEDs are $5 each "15 lumens, 120 degree beam angle, half-watt surface mount LED, an appropriate current-limit resistor and a 24" lightweight wire pigtail terminating in a universal servo-type connector." Is this similar brightness to yours? Also, any other LED can be used. Half watt? OK for indoor use.

The DELight controller can be programmed to activate the landing light with the retract switch. I have not seen or used the DELight Controller, it might be better than my lights, or just the same.

For the retracts, I will order both shafts, but use the 3mm motor shafts first, for less work and see how it goes. I presume the C-clip from the stock gear will work on the 3mm shafts? I don't have any spares - do you have a link for C-clips for 3mm and 4mm shafts? Any other special parts for the gear mods? Yes, the stock will fit OK, just don't lose it.

I'd still like to know how you did the sequencer for the front gear doors . Posted below. Connect the sequencer to the receiver. Then, connect the nose retract and door servo to the sequencer. Sequencer will do the timing job. Nothing to adjust on the sequencer module.

The metal gear servo on the flaps is a great idea. I will get those since they experience constant force.
Do you still like the Detrum/Dynam 9 gram servos for the other control surfaces? Yes

Thanks,
Derek

My apology. Been really busy here with a new project & unable answer all your questions.

1. Yes, Dentrum works great! & still recommends.
2. For flaps, I recommend metal gear or you're taking chances. http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3450105
3. for steering servo, the same metal gear, or 9gram nylon could strip on landing as well.
4. 4mm - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCE9&P=7
or http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3449694
5. 3mm - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCE8&P=7
*Main gear does not need C-clip, hex grub screw is all it needs to hold/lock the wires in place.
6. sequencer - http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2207
7. Door - http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2374 I used dremmel and Heat gun to size and shape it with the 737 nose. PLEASE MAKE SURE TO BE COMFORTABLE WITH THIS MOD. If not done nicely, door or doors may NOT open before landing. I have never had any issues with mine so far. Just remember that there are 2 nose wheels, make sure that none of them would "jam" when door closes/opens. I cycled mine a hundred times before maiden (upside down and upright position).

My lights:
1. http://www.flytron.com/rc-light-syst...light-red.html
2. http://www.flytron.com/rc-light-syst...ght-green.html
3. http://www.flytron.com/82-60-lens-for-powerleds.html - I did NOT use the casing.
4. http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/LightKits/LZLTMTCD0.jpg FROM : http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/RCLights.htm

I DO NOT RECOMMEND MY NAV LIGHTS THE WAY I DID IT. With the same light system, I do RECOMMEND this for less money, less work, more options, simplicity & etc. I made my own because I don't know whom to ask and don't know of any one that knows better. I found LAZERTOYZ, only after I figured out my own design. Have I tried Lazertoyz module? NO. But sure won't recommend it if am not confident about it. I have recommended this to one of the RC "guru" here in RCGrps, and he can't be happier about the results after so many lights he has tried and spent before.
1. http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/LightKits/Maxi-Lights.jpg
2. http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/LightKits/LZLTMTCD0.jpg
BOTH from: http://www.lazertoyz.com/shop/RCLights.htm
3. THEN USE THESE, BUT you may want to contact and ask Lazertoyz and find out how well the module will "power-up" 1 watt LEDs all at once, since I have NOT tried it as mentioned.
a. http://www.ebay.com/itm/160726243535...#ht_593wt_1270
b. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-1-Watt-1...ht_3028wt_1270
c. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-1W-High-...ht_3086wt_1270
d. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-LED-Clear...ht_2268wt_1037
OR JUST SEARCH EBAY FOR BETTER PRICING

* Lazertoyz will have your stuff at your doorstep in 3-5 days, USPS
* Flytron, about 4-6weeks at least! Turkish Mail
Words from Flytron:
It is allowing 2 different working modes, RC mode or Standalone.
Power it with directly from battery (4-6v) it works on Standalone mode and strobes continuously.
Plug it on your RC receiver’s any channel for RC mode, then you can On/Off it over servo channel.
We tested it since months and followed the flashes from 2km at the dark without any problem.

* my klm with 60 degree diffuser:
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...4-P9173134.jpg
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...5-P9173132.jpg
NAV LIGHTS

As a copy and paste to your inquiry (PM) and to share with others:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE METAL GEAR servos for flaps use or even for the rest of the control surfaces. I have nylons on my flaps and has been addicted taking off, flying, and landing with flaps. But after lots & lots of flights, the nylon gears is NOT performing the way it should be anymore due to the amount of flights & thrust that my motors BLOWING towards my flaps. Servos sometimes do not center anymore, or "gives", compromised torque, and etc. And when one side (flaps) does not equally perform as the other side, they act as an aileron in the air! BOTTOM LINE, high torque servos are recommended due to engine thrust pushing the the flaps. I have been using these servos http://www.hobby-lobby.com/9_gram_pr...ueryId=3450105 and guarantees its performance and price is a smart BUY!
Others may have not experienced nylon flap servos GOING BAD, but I fly a lot. I never had trouble in the beginning, and wished I used metal gears. They are now replaced, but again, repairs is much more difficult than doing it right the first time. -Spyro

THOUGH I USE 1OAMP CC BEC ON MY RECEIVER, I RUN A DEDICATED CHEAP 3A BEC FOR MY LIGHT SYSTEM/DESIGN. This will give me a piece of mind that my lights' power consumption does not interfere with the receiver. Or any short from wirings, strobe module short, burn out & etc. will not affect the receiver (not good if there would be & they all share one BEC). Same thing why Automobils isolate/separate fuses. My BECs are SOLDERED with the ESC's + & - terminals. As seen on my video, I have VERY minimal (4) terminals that I have to plug-in, & the wing bolts to get up flying ,

Using the FMS sequencer above, PLEASE "sequence" or cycle your door/retract switch TWICE before take off. FMS retracts is not same as ChangeSUN
HAVE FUN ON YOUR BUILD GUYS.
Still enjoys flying my KLM., Happy landings...
-Spyro

(I don't usually check the thread, sorry...)

EDIT (08/23/2012): I HAD THE CHANCE TO TRY OUT THE MAXI-LIGHTS CONTROLLER MODULE. NOT IMPRESSED WITH THE LIGHT INTENSITY USING 1 WATT LEDs.