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Old Jan 04, 2011, 02:18 PM
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Joined Feb 2002
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Question
which motor for Jetco Cessna 170

This 36 inch wing span model is shown with beam mount .049 or firewall mount .020 engine.

I want to electrify it with a smallish electric motor, brushless type.

The set up needs to mimic the picture shown so that the plastic cowl will fit as shown.

Outrunners don't seem to work as they won't fit behind the cowl.

I need a motor with a shaft that will "stick out" thru the cowl as shown.

It is 1 1/2 inchs from firewall to prop hub as shown on the .020 picture. The firewall can be moved to accommodate the motor mounting.

I appreciate your help.

Willie
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Old Jan 04, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
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Gawd..Willie, I have not seen those plans in 30 yrs! I built the Cessna, Super Cruiser, and Rearwin Speedster, back in the good ole
days of I.C.

Because of the robust construction, of these Jetco's, I sugest a 400 size outrunner. Something like the Eflite Park 400. They make several Kv ratings. I suggest the mildest. With a APC 7-5E and a 1000 MaH 3s pack. And a 10A ESC. More than enough power, and you can fly for a long time, as the amps will be around 9A. And the motor will be good forward weight for balance.

This is a good flyer. I flew mine on a Cox Medallion w/thrtl sleeve, for yrs. Cruised around at almost idle for ever on a 2 oz tank.

Good luck!

Fuzz
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Old Jan 04, 2011, 04:41 PM
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I would suggest a motor with a threaded shaft. This will allow the motor to be mounted further back where there's more room. You could check the dimensions of this one and see if it'll fit.
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...tor-%26/Detail
There are other versions of this motor that will spin a larger prop.

A smaller diameter alternative could be found at Hobby City. Pick a motor with a 3mm shaft and replace it with a GWS gear box threaded shaft. You will want something in the 1000Kv range to spin a large enough prop.

I was a fan of the ELE C20 1500Kv series but those are getting hard to find now.
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2552587
The shaft replacement is not difficult on them.
Glenn
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 04:38 PM
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glewis,

The tower pro type motors with the long threaded shafts are all too big. I do like idea of the long threaded shaft. So, are you saying that if I buy the ELE c20 motor I can use the long threaded shaft from the gearbox pictured. It is GWS. Hobby King has many small motors like this. Will this mod work with any of this style with the 3mm shaft?

Willie
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 04:39 PM
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here is the picture I forgot to include.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 06:22 PM
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Yes, you can remove the short shaft and replace it with the gearbox shaft in the pic you posted. That is the same shaft I use in all my small motors.
It's not really difficult to do and doesn't require any special tools.

On the old style ELE C20 motors the hub is removable from the bell, this made it even easier to do. The hub is a two piece deal that's threaded. The shaft is pressed into the hub and the bell is retained onto the hub with a nut.

Any motor with a 3mm shaft could be adapted by working slowly and not forcing anything. The important thing to remember is to press the shaft out properly and carefully, not by beating it out with a hammer.

You will need a vice and something to use as a receiver when you press the old shaft out of the bell. I use 1/4" drive sockets stacked onto the shaft to the proper depth. Support the bell with the receiver as close to the shaft as you can get. I use a socket that just fits over the shaft. The idea here is to not distort the bell which will cause it to wobble.

Once you press out the original shaft you might need to remove or reduce the knurl on the gearbox shaft to get it into the hole. I do this by spinning the shaft in a drill and working the knurl down a little at a time with a file.
Check the fit often so you don't take off too much and spoil the press fit.

Press the shaft into the bell with the knurl in the bell. If the rear of the shaft is too long, cut it off with the dremel cutoff disk while spinning the shaft/bell in a drill. Make a new clip groove with the cutoff disk while it's spinning too.

Clean any metal chips off the magnets with a piece of tape and reassemble the motor.

Now you have a motor with a proper shaft instead of a stump that requires an adapter and a huge hole in the prop....

Glenn
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 09:14 PM
Balsa Flies Better!
Stamford, CT
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There's a better gearbox setup for this airplane than what you're looking at. These airplanes aren't flyweights, and if you wind up on the snoot, often you'll bust a lightweight gearbox. A nice gearbox is the Permax 280 FG3 which is a beam mount gearbox. You might try Kirk at New Creations for one. I've got one with a Permax 280BB (very old school) for this airplane- I've got one half started in a closet. The shaft sticks out 1 1/4 inches from the end of the beam mount.

Sam
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 09:34 PM
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This motor might work for you and it already has a threaded shaft.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5429
Glenn
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
This motor might work for you and it already has a threaded shaft.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5429
Glenn
Is that $4.69 price for real????

Pete G.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 01:50 PM
Balsa Flies Better!
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Probably- but their specs often aren't.....
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 01:54 PM
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I am interested in this thread, because I have an unbuilt Rearwin Speedster which should need a comparable motor for conversion to electric.

Pete G.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megowcoupe View Post
Probably- but their specs often aren't.....
Yeah, like their stated weights. Weight without wires? How do you run a motor or servo without wires? sheesh..
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 02:36 PM
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This motor looks like what I want. I just ordered 2 of them and of course, they are on back order. I also ordered 2 of the Turnigy Plush 10 amp esc's to go with them. The feedback on the motor says they are now shipped with a firewall mount instead of the stick mount. Yipee! I like these ol Jetco kits. I have the Cessna 170 and the larger Piper Super Cruiser.

I like to use a smaller motor for more of a scale flight instead of overpowering the plane so it zips off the runway and flys around like a mad bee. Saves on weight too.

Willie
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 04:22 PM
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I prefer the firewall mount. Makes thrust line adjustment easy.
Ditto on the overpowered thing, I like light weight models and don't need more than a 1:1 thrust/weight ratio. If I feel the need to hover, I'll fly my heli's.
Hope you don't have to wait too long for the backorder to arrive.

Glenn
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 10:12 PM
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Alternate Outrunner Setup for Cessnas

I used a different method of mounting a small outrunner in my Tritle C-140 that should work in a 170, etc. The rotating motor bell protrudes almost though an enlarged hole in the nosebowl and the prop adapter fits onto the motor shaft as shown in the pics. No need for special outrunner with long shaft and less danger of bent shaft from nose overs, direct cooling of motor too.
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Last edited by E-Challenged; Jan 06, 2011 at 10:18 PM.
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