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Old Apr 21, 2012, 09:54 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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I think her decks were fir. Good for splinters. They had a look all their own, compounded by the odd break at the back edge of the engine hatch where they straight planked forward, and sprung in the planks aft, with a divider strip running athwartship.

When I was on board that strip was painted cream like the inside of the bulwarks (not the two tone she originally had in the image below). Most of her paint was house paint donated by the Glidden company. That in the waterways would peel off in sheets within a week of being painted.

In 82 they stripped the waterways and the divider strip down to oiled bare wood.

The model will, of course, have the painted versions. I don't think the grain will be too bad.
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 01:19 PM
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ahh that photo explains a lot.....
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Old Apr 21, 2012, 11:43 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
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Finished framing the access hatch and cut it out. Some more wood went in to create a ledge for the hatch cover to sit on. The section of the sub deck over the hatch was glued to the portion of the frame removed making the hatch cover.

Some additional bracing went into the deck framing so all the deck beams are braced to each other. This stiffened things up quite a bit.

I also milled the Pride wood into 3/16" slabs that will be used to build the skylight, binnacle box, cabin hatch, and trim wood around the cabin top.

Started building the cabin trunk. This is the lid part that will lift off.
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Old Apr 23, 2012, 09:14 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Bitts

I got some wood a while back - I'm told it was from a pallet of wood and this stuff was inserted in between to make airspace - packing material.

I think it's some sort of mahogany, but whatever it is, it's making nice bitts.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:42 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
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Will anyone ever build a boat to the plans?

After making up the bits there were some details, especially on the aft-most bitt with the windlass, that didn't seem right. So, looking through all the photos and books, I think I have them as they were.

The bitts just fore and aft of the foremast had belaying pins added to them - I drilled them out for that. The forward one had actual pins, the aft one had spikes.

Besides drilling little holes, I made the knees for the riding bitts just aft of each mast. The forward two bits are glued to the subdeck now.

The riding bitts will also get cheek blocks, sheaves, mounted on the outside of their posts.

The forward riding bitt's knees spans the access hatch seam. The hatch will have a tab that will fit into a slot up here, and a latching mechanism hidden by the hatch cover at the aft end of it.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:12 PM
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The cabin "lid" was roofed, framed, and the skylight made.

The hole in the counter for the 3/16" id rudder tube was drilled a little over-sized and the tube placed with J.B.Weld.

The rudder was cut from 1/4" Plexiglas. It will pivot on a 3/16" shaft just I did with Constellation's rudder. The shaft was drilled for 1/16" drift pins and the rudder drilled through the shaft to match. Everything was going so well, I should have know there was

I squirted a bit of CA in each hole and set the drifts in. The CA set before I could get everything seated. In trying to tap it in, the solder joints broke and I wound up peening the pins over on the shaft and the head of the rudder broke off.

I tried to pull the pins to save the shaft and start over, but I couldn't, so I opted to use this rudder after all. Everything was tight, even after cutting the shaft for the propeller hole, so I used J.B.Weld to fill where the shaft and the rudder meet. I'll glue the head back on and, hopefully, have a useable rudder.

The cabin top got the molding around the top and a hatch, all made from the Pride wood. All that's left to make in the binnacle box.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 09:52 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
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I think the rudder will work out after all. The tube is trimmed up, the rudder painted, and I started making the heel plate, but I need to get some brass machine screws and wood screws to install it at the base of the stern port.

This will go together just as I did for Constellation - a copper plate will be attached to the keel with wood screws all bedded in epoxy to keep water out of the wood of the keel. It will have two holes threaded to receive the machine screws that hold on the gudgeon plate itself, which hold the heel of the rudder to the boat. If the rudder needs to be removed, the plate is unscrewed and the rudder slides out.

This model's plate has to have a couple of crooks bent into it because of the rake of the stern post.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 01:59 AM
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you are making great headway Jerry !
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:06 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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A Gudgeon Curmudgeon

It does feel like I'm moving along. This model being a schooner I figured would be simpler and I hoped to get it done so I could sail something this year.

I ordered a shaft and stuffing box, a two bladed prop, and a coupling set from Dumas - so maybe I'll be able to at least power boat soon. I think I'm just going to have the motor off-and-on with no speed control - then I don't need a proportional channel to run it.

I haven't even started on the spars, and don't have the Supplex for the sails yet either. I don't have the wood on hand for the masts unless I laminate it. If I build the mast using the "bird's mouth" method, I do have the wood for that - see the pictures of CaptMSR building the mast for his skiff:

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Today I found some #2 brass wood screws and some #4 brass machine screws in my box of stuff, without having to buy any more.

I drilled and tapped the holes in the mounting plate, and drilled and counter-sank the holes for the wood screws. The holes in the gudgeon plate were opened to the right sizes, and the mounting plate was screwed and epoxied to the keel.

When that set up, I could install the gudgeon. Everything fit and the rudder works fine - now to make the tiller!

I replanked the inboard side of the counter, leaving the keystone shaped hole for the rudder head
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:13 PM
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everything is very nice done
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:18 PM
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That poor mast!
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 04:40 PM
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i built a couple of masts for a 12 foot sail boat using the bird's mouth technique...it was one of the most fun things i have ever done, and i was really proud of the outcome...which is unusual for me
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 10:28 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
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That was the first time Mark or I had built one that way - it was fun.

Pride's lower masts will be about 7/8" diameter at the deck tapering down to about 5/8" at the hounds, so I think I can use the method with some 1/4" thick strips. Setting up a jig to cut the bird's mouth will be the challenge - after that it's easy.

The riding bitts were glued to the subdeck Friday.
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and a set of beams were glued in for the battery to sit on just forward of the dagger board trunk.
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Description: Battery mount installed

Today I got the binnacle box and hatch panels installed on the cabin top. The cabin and counter decking got a coat of primer, and all the bright work on the house and the bitts got a couple of coats of poly floor finish.
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Description: Some finish carpentry and some painting
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:45 PM
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5 transom knees got cut out and installed with a clamp piece applied across their top. There's a timber cap that goes on top like the rest of the bulwarks got.
The pump boxes were started. They get iron banding and a rail-car sort of pump handle.

I think I'm settled on the placement of the servos. The two sail arms are going on either side of the dagger board trunk; one will handle the head sails and squares, the other will handle the fore sail and main.

I was planning on putting the rudder servo in the cabin, aft, but I think instead I'm going to put in in the main hatch on top of the trunk. Pride had a tiller and there's no where to hide or disguise a more mechanical linkage for the steering. I looked at how SC&H handle this on their Prince De Neufchatel and that wasn't going to work at all.

When she sailed the was a set of blocks and tackle connected between the tiller and the waterways to help the helmsman in handling the big stick. I'm going to use this relieving tackle to connect the tiller to the rudder servo much like DanL has done on his Syren.

The mini servo that will control the motor will go in the cabin. For now it'll be a simple on/off set up until I get a speed/direction controller.
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Old May 01, 2012, 10:59 PM
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Made all the hatch coamings - none of which are actually going to function as hatches and most of them had covers on them all the time while I was aboard - it was Fall after all. If I finish them covered I won't have to make any gratings - that's a plus.

Looking at photos to figure out how tall the focs'l hatch coaming was I noticed it didn't look like what the deck plan showed. A look at the structural plan matched better what was in the photos, so that's why what I made doesn't match the lines drawn on the subdeck.

The postman brought a package from Dumas today; the prop, shaft, stuffing box, and motor coupling. Looks like it'll work - we'll see.

Finally, I started shaping the tiller. I plan to make a tiller of thick copper with a collar soldiered to it like Constellation's but attach this wooden tiller over it. The copper tiller will provide strength while the wooden one hides the copper one - that's the plan, at least.
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