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Old Nov 17, 2011, 11:24 PM
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Perhaps boom jaws? If the splinters can be turned, then stauntions (sp?) for a log rail? A nice Tiller? Very neat to have actual ship wood for incorporation into your model, Jerry.
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 09:10 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
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I think I figured out the best way to incorporate the wood into the model.
Pride's tiller, skylight, cabin hatch, cabin trim, and binnacle box were all finished brite. You can see these items in the attached picture.

They're probably mahogany and this wood looks like fir to me, which has a little reddish tint to it also. I may have to color it slightly, but I think it'll work.

There's a portion of the transom finished brite also, if there's enough of this stuff, I'll do that too.

That will definitely be a more prominent display of Pride's wood than I did with Constellation's live-oak (mast-steps).

My only concern is that the tiller has to be functional as there's no way to hide steering gear below decks back there at the rudder head. We used tackles to help with steering in heavier stuff, and I intend to set up the models steering so it looks like that. If I laminate the tiller that should be strong enough.

Anyway, it's off to the Home Despot to get a fresh can of resin and some wood to plank Mac.
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 07:49 PM
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I painted the inside of the hull with resin. Took about 6 ounces. I used what I had with a splash of acetone and everything was fine - it seems to be setting properly.

I did get a gallon of new resin. I was gonna get a quart, but it was almost half the price of the gallon - so I got the gallon.

When it's cured and sanded, I'll start putting in deck clamp and other internal structure to firm up the hull before I glass the outside.
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Old Dec 11, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Pride's been sitting aside while another hull is being planked up.
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 07:16 PM
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Long ago and far away

Still working on Macedonian's hull...but my friend Bunker sent me some shots of us on Pride at the Yorktown Bicentennial back in October of 1981.
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Old Dec 25, 2011, 02:07 PM
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Glass man

While putting poly in the Macedonian I went ahead and glassed one side of Pride
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Today I glassed the other side
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 09:40 PM
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So, the transom was glassed back on December 30th. Now the hull's waiting for a good sanding job and another coat of resin to get rolled on. In the meantime, I'll be installing some internal structure. This one is getting what amounts to a daggerboard trunk to hold a fin keel with a bulb at the end - based on what seems to work well on a few models of big fishing schooners.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 03:00 PM
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A few days ago I sanded inside the hull, then brought it into the house and installed the deck clamps - basically a rail around the inside for the deck beams to sit on. Each clamp was a 1/8" x 3/8" strip, as was used to plank Macedonian, epoxied to the hull 3/8" below the line of the top of the deck beams. A second strip was glued on top of this to make the clamp 1/4" thick.

The deck beams were made from white pine planed to 1/2" that was left over from another project. The widest beam was given a camber of 1/4" and that curve was used on all the beams - same way I did Constellation.

The beams are placed somewhat at each station, but aligned with the forward and aft ends of openings like the cabin trunk and the main hatch; and behind each mast.

None of these was permanently attached yet as the equipment deck and what amounts to a dagger board trunk have to be installed. Some additional beams may go in yet - like in front of the masts, and some short ones will go at the sides of cabin/hatch openings once they are framed in. I also have to determine how big the access hatch will need to be. The cabin trunk will give access to the steering servo, rx, fuses, on/off switch, etc - the battery and sail controls will be under the main hatch which at this scale would only be about 3-1/2" x 3-1/4" - the battery wouldn't fit through that much less whatever I rig up to control the sails. I'll probably make a hatch with hidden seams that's around 6" wide by 8" long.

The hull got wet today. It actually will fit in the bathtub, so I dropped it in and threw the 12 pounds of lead I have in baggies in it to see how it did. It was still a few pounds short of reaching the waterline but I'm guessing it'll take around 20 pounds of gear and ballast to put her on her marks.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 08:24 PM
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With that light hull, all the ballast will be useful (anti-heeling). I predict your Pride will be a speedster :-). The arc of the deckbeams sure look nice.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Sanded the hull and while glassing the Macedonian, put a coat of resin on Pride.
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Old Mar 24, 2012, 09:33 AM
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The Dagger board

Back on the 17th, I cut the prop cut-out in the stern post - something better done when the keel was first cut out - but why take the easy way out, right? .

I also arranged and sized the deck beams to properly frame hatches, mast partners, etc.

Instead of the big pipe attached to the bottom of the keel for ballast, with Pride I'll be using a fin with a bulb at the bottom much the same as I've seen on some big Newfie schooner models (Bluenose types) that are of a comparable size and sail area.

Toward that end, I installed what amounts to a dagger-board trunk in Pride's hull.

The trunk is made from two sheets of luan plywood, glassed on their inside faces. Two pine strips, coated in epoxy, act as spacers and hold the sides apart so a 6 inch wide by 1/8 inch think aluminum plate can slide in.

The plate will have a bulb of lead shot cast in epoxy on it's end.

All of this would have been best designed into the keel before the hull was started - but the hull was made before I decided to go this route - so much for advanced planning and design. You folks out there - learn from me and don't make my mistakes.

The trunk is meant to go through the hull and sit flush with the bottom of the keel. That meant cutting the entire center of the keel out of the model for about 6-1/2 inches.

Fortunately; a while back I bought a "multipurpose tool" from Harbor Freight that looks like a right-angle grinder, but actually just vibrates what-ever's mounted on it from side to side - like a sanding pad, or a saw blade!

This gizmo made quick and clean work of cutting out the keel and the trunk fit right in, nice and snug.

I've been helping CaptMSR build a 14 foot skiff in my yard this week. He let me use some 2-part epoxy in a caulking gun tube to install my dagger board trunk. With that I was able to push epoxy into cracks and spaces, and get into corners - great stuff at about $22 a tube. You can recap the unused part, but you have to replace the spout as the epoxy in mixed inside it and will harden.

So, end grain and outside surfaces got smeared with epoxy, and after setting and sanding, some more glass & resin will go on and the inside will get some bracing.
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Last edited by JerryTodd; Apr 01, 2012 at 02:03 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 02:07 PM
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The trunk got cut down about an inch, capped, and braced. Everything is epoxied in place - inside and out.

Another bulkhead was fitted aft, that will support the motor which will be placed pretty much in the same spot that Pride's engine was actually placed. The motor comes from an old 12 volt Craftsman cordless drill.
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Old Mar 30, 2012, 08:20 AM
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The deck beams sit on the deck clamp. Yesterday I filled in the spaces between the deck beams so there would be something to catch the edge of the deck around it's perimeter.

The deck beams aren't fixed in place yet - there's still work going on inside the hull...

The bulkhead made for a motor mount was cut to receive the motor, and a brace added. A metal plate will be affixed to the aft face of the bulkhead that the motor will get screwed onto. Then the bulkhead will get epoxied into it's place in the hull.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:10 AM
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Well guys, I didn't hit the $640 million jackpot, so I won't be able to get you all workshops and kits to build like I planned.

Anyway...

I re-sized an image of myself from 1980 to 1:20 and pasted it to some card. Now there's a 20 year old me, 3-1/2 inches tall, standing around so you can get an idea of scale in the pictures.

Since I was already cutting card-stock, I made a template for the deck.

I drilled the hole for the bolt that will hold the fin keel. The hole is centered so the fin can be switched, fore-and-aft. I may cut a little hollow in one side to move the CLP slightly to balance the boat. To seal the plywood and reenforce the hole, I epoxied in a length of brass tube. When that set up, I cut the tube inside the trunk with a hacksaw blade and filed it smooth with a jeweler's file.

As mentioned, CaptMSR is building a skiff in my yard. He brought a piece of molding to use as a batten for marking out the parts on the plywood. I found it was perfect for Pride's wales. Unfortunately, it was about 4 inches short of getting both sides out of it.

In the mean time, I beveled the bow end of the wale to fit the stem, wet the piece, and clamped it onto the hull. When it dried I thinned the aft end slightly with a block plane to help it make the twist at the counter. I mixed up some slow-cure epoxy and sawdust; buttered up the piece, and clamped in onto the hull. I need to make a bunch of Luthier clamps.
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