|May 16, 2012, 09:27 AM|
Caps off to you
Made the caps. They're 5/16" thick at 1:20 and I happen to have 5/16" plywood scraps all over the place. Had to find some without a void, that done they're cut to rough size, with the rake angle in the fore and aft ends; then touch on the sander.
I marked the center-lines and figured out where the holes go. Propped a board on the drill press to the rake angle and drilled the holes first with a 1/4" bit, then 1/2".
I slipped the scroll saw blade through the tenon hole to cut it square, propping it up by hand and cutting by eye. Then I fined it up using a triangular file.
One of the caps lost a chip of veneer behind the square hole, which I expected. squared off the spot and glued in a dutchman. I probably should have drilled everything first, and cut to size after, but I figured any bits that came off the plywood that I filled would be stronger. On the foremast cap there's two 1/16" holes in the back of the cap for stays coming from the main topmast - the sliver of oak I glued in is right where these holes are, so this works out better in the long term.
It quit raining, sort of. It sputtered to a stop like it was running out of gas, but the sun peeked out here and there, so I slipped the boat out for a couple of photos in natural light.
Two yards of Supplex are on order for the sails.
|May 16, 2012, 08:31 PM|
I decided to add a drawer to my work table for little stuff I'm always trying to find in the clutter. It's 24" wide x 14" deep and 3" tall. The table's 23" across, so I put a shelf behind the drawer as a place to sit things when you're working.
I gathered up the cedar for the main mast. One piece, shown in the pics, was about 18" x 3" x 1", the rest were smaller. From these I ripped 1/4" thick boards, which in turn, were ripped into 5/16" strips getting two from each board. In the end I had 28 strips.
I rerigged the router table with a sacrificial fence, a piece of one of the model's deck beams as a leaf-spring to hold the work down, and a home made finger board to hold it against the fence. I pushed each strip through the router using the next strip to push the prior one through. This all went much quicker and resulted in much cleaner cuts than when I did the foremast.
I laid out the strips by staves to make sure the butt joints were well staggered, then started gluing up the spar using rubber bands to clamp it together. I started with the first 8 pieces and added the next piece at each lowest butt in succession, until all the stave were complete. When it was all together I wrapped it tightly with some cotton cod line, the string clamp.
I trimmed it to 47" on the band saw, and played with it for a while, making sure all the butt joints were tight and there were no twists or bends, then finally it was left to set-up over night.
I don't have enough cedar left for the bowsprit or the rest of the spars, so I'll have to get some more, or see if I have something else to use.
|May 17, 2012, 11:35 PM|
Took off the string and rubber bands and the wooden tube I made last night was just right.
Planed off the ridges and made it 8-sided.
Then I plugged the heel and the head to make them solid for about 6" at the bottom, and 8" at the top. A 1/2" square tenon was cut in the heel for the mast step.
The head is the same as the fore mast head except for a slightly increased rake angle. The head tenon was cut and the fit of the cap checked. The doubling was squared and the taper for the hounds cut in.
Then I rounded the mast between the base that stays 8 sided up to about 2" above the deck; to the trestle-trees; and attached the hounds just like the fore mast - glued and pinned with two 1/16" brass rods.
I assembled the cross-trees and trestle-trees, glued and pinned; checked for fit
Finally, the bottom of the mast was painted cream and the head flat black.
Pride now has two sticks.
Now to figure out what to make the bowsprit out of.
|May 18, 2012, 08:11 PM|
I found a nice old piece of pine with a good straight grain and decided to make the bowsprit from it.
The bowsprit is pretty straight forward. It's square from the heel to just outside the bulwark, 8-sided to the end of the knee, and round out to the end. It's 3/4" square but the bottom tapers up to 1/2" so it sits level with the deck, though not on it. The whole thing is 18-3/4" long.
I cut a hole in the bow for the sprit, worked it to size with files.
I put the big cyclops eye on the t'gallant - the Lord Baltimore colors, the emblem of the City of Baltimore. I always thought it was plain ugly, but she had it, so the model gets it too.
If you look close, you'll noticed the waterline has changed. Something always looked off, and I finally set the hull up, leveled it off, and measured somethings, and yep - the waterline was painted 1-1/2" too low at the bow. I'm not sure how I managed, or mangled, that - but I did. So, I restruck the line, masked it off, and took it outside and painted it. Now it looks right.
The Supplex arrived today from Rockeywoods.com.
|May 18, 2012, 10:11 PM|
Joined Oct 2006
hmmm. i seem to remember we had a baltimore clipper visiting us here in vancouver bc, many years ago...don't know which one though....lookin good....
|May 20, 2012, 01:54 AM|
Today, or rather yesterday, the bowsprit was made 8-sided from just outside the hull to the tip.
Then from just past the end of the head-knee to the tip, it was made round.
Cut the tenon in the end
Installed the shear-pin through the forward bitts - just like the real one had.
Put a coat of paint on everything and made a cap.
Then I tried to figure out what the bees should look like. Couldn't find anything in the book, but I knew I had a photo of the bowsprit from aloft somewhere, so I went digging. I actually found the 110 negatives and scanned them straight off.
I cleaned them up, fixed odd angles, and placed them in proper order on a web page
|May 20, 2012, 10:48 PM|
Not a lot done today, got the pump together and added a couple of things to the bowsprit cap.
I was going to set it up for the dolphin striker and the spreaders - but haven't figured out how her dolphin striker was attached yet.
|May 22, 2012, 11:12 PM|
Making holes in things
Made a few holes in some things.
After staring at photos of flat black things in shadows until I could hardly see - I guessed at the bees and put them on the bowsprit. It got a few holes in it where the stays pass through.
The cap was detailed further with another pair of holes near the top and a couple of brackets for the spreaders. I still have to figure out how the dolphin striker went on.
Two stays come over from the main top mast and pass through a pair of holes in the fore cap. I was concerned that chafing would saw through these holes, so I sleeved them with brass tubing CAed into the holes.
Pride has two bob-stays that attach at two holes in the cutwater. These pierce the fiberglass and plywood keel so these were epoxied in slightly over-sized holes so the epoxy could seal everything around the tubing.
There are two hooks in each mast for their peak-halyard blocks. I made these from some 1/16" brass rod. The real ones went through a steel plate on the back of the mast that acted like a big washer. On the front of the mast they were peened over a fender washer.
My problem is the cross-trees won't pass over them if they're permanently put in place. On the real cross-trees they unbolt a bolster to get it over the hooks - I don't have that option. I intend to thread the hooks and put a washer and nut on them so I can remove them if I need to. They'll get cut shorter then.
|May 23, 2012, 06:17 PM|
Continued on with the bowsprit...
Added the saddle that the heel of the jib boom rests on and and eye bolt on top of the cap for the spreader guys
Made a jib boom. It's 3/8" in diameter and just over 16" long with almost 6" of overlap with the bowsprit.
Then I did the spreaders and dolphin striker. The cleats on the striker are pinned on.
Everything got a coat of paint.
|May 23, 2012, 11:50 PM|
It's easier compared to Constellation, but only a little. Little things changed on Pride over the years she was sailing, and since I'm focusing on a certain time in her life, I have to look out for those things when I'm examining images. I really wish I had taken more pictures back then.
Folks doing Pride II have plans available from Model Expo drawn with every detail a modeler needs, and the actual boat is still around, not to mention tons of photos. When I'm looking for Pride data, nearly all I find is Pride II stuff. Then, Pride was pre-digital.
|May 24, 2012, 10:36 PM|
I put guys on the spreaders and drilled the holes for the stays in the job-boom.
The collars came in the mail, so I went to work on the tiller. I cut the thick copper sheet I've used for other things, like Constellation's tiller, and shaped it and cleaned it up. I soldered the collar to the end with the set screw off-set to one side so I could access it with an allen wrench.
The copper tiller was curved to match the wooden one and the two are epoxied together with a couple of screws to make sure.
The wooden tiller overlaps the collar and I cut down the rudder post to match. I'll fashion a dummy rudder head to hide the collar, but still allow access to the set screw.
I finally found a spot to photograph the model where the masts don't get lost in the background clutter.
I fastened in the mast-steps temporarily - they'll get epoxied and screwed in place eventually.
I cut the top masts, but the wood bowed and I can't use them. I took a picture with them sitting on the masts.
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Gallery||American Pride Camaro SS||JohnnyDeluxe||Life, The Universe, and Politics||30||Nov 22, 2010 01:22 PM|
|For Sale||Discovery Channel Wings - American Pride Collection Set||Bombay||Non R/C Items (FS/W)||2||Nov 07, 2010 08:35 AM|
|Discussion||Show your Crackroll.com Pride in the Most Unique Location Contest!||Matt Gunn||Electric Heli Talk||0||Oct 25, 2010 02:48 PM|
|Sold||Model Shipways Pride of Baltimore kit $80||crashnburned||Non R/C Items (FS/W)||0||Jul 01, 2008 07:18 AM|