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Old May 16, 2012, 10:27 AM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,688 Posts
Caps off to you

Made the caps. They're 5/16" thick at 1:20 and I happen to have 5/16" plywood scraps all over the place. Had to find some without a void, that done they're cut to rough size, with the rake angle in the fore and aft ends; then touch on the sander.

I marked the center-lines and figured out where the holes go. Propped a board on the drill press to the rake angle and drilled the holes first with a 1/4" bit, then 1/2".

I slipped the scroll saw blade through the tenon hole to cut it square, propping it up by hand and cutting by eye. Then I fined it up using a triangular file.

One of the caps lost a chip of veneer behind the square hole, which I expected. squared off the spot and glued in a dutchman. I probably should have drilled everything first, and cut to size after, but I figured any bits that came off the plywood that I filled would be stronger. On the foremast cap there's two 1/16" holes in the back of the cap for stays coming from the main topmast - the sliver of oak I glued in is right where these holes are, so this works out better in the long term.

It quit raining, sort of. It sputtered to a stop like it was running out of gas, but the sun peeked out here and there, so I slipped the boat out for a couple of photos in natural light.

Two yards of Supplex are on order for the sails.
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Old May 16, 2012, 09:31 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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I decided to add a drawer to my work table for little stuff I'm always trying to find in the clutter. It's 24" wide x 14" deep and 3" tall. The table's 23" across, so I put a shelf behind the drawer as a place to sit things when you're working.
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Description: Put a drawer in the worktable Name: dyws20120516b.jpg
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Description: The "sit it down" shelf behind the drawer

I gathered up the cedar for the main mast. One piece, shown in the pics, was about 18" x 3" x 1", the rest were smaller. From these I ripped 1/4" thick boards, which in turn, were ripped into 5/16" strips getting two from each board. In the end I had 28 strips.
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Description: Down front is the cedar block that will become the main mast. Name: pri20120516c.jpg
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Description: The block, and a couple of other pieces, all ripped in to 1/4" boards. Name: pri20120516d.jpg
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Description: Boards ripped to 5/16".

I rerigged the router table with a sacrificial fence, a piece of one of the model's deck beams as a leaf-spring to hold the work down, and a home made finger board to hold it against the fence. I pushed each strip through the router using the next strip to push the prior one through. This all went much quicker and resulted in much cleaner cuts than when I did the foremast.
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Description: Capture from video of running the strips through the router.  The video's no more exciting than this pic. :)

I laid out the strips by staves to make sure the butt joints were well staggered, then started gluing up the spar using rubber bands to clamp it together. I started with the first 8 pieces and added the next piece at each lowest butt in succession, until all the stave were complete. When it was all together I wrapped it tightly with some cotton cod line, the string clamp.
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Description: Bird's mouth cut and staves are laid out to make sure but joints are well staggered Name: pri20120516f.jpg
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Description: Glue up commences Name: pri20120516g.jpg
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Description: Gluing continues with rubber bands holding everything as each piece is glued and added.

I trimmed it to 47" on the band saw, and played with it for a while, making sure all the butt joints were tight and there were no twists or bends, then finally it was left to set-up over night.
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Description: The anaconda grip of the 'string clamp' is applied.  The spar is a little longer than needed.

I don't have enough cedar left for the bowsprit or the rest of the spars, so I'll have to get some more, or see if I have something else to use.
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Last edited by JerryTodd; May 17, 2012 at 08:41 AM.
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Old May 16, 2012, 09:59 PM
Damp and Dizzy member
Brooks's Avatar
Bozeman, Montana, United States
Joined Aug 2003
3,413 Posts
With your semi-production setup for masts, now, are you considering making RC schooners or parts for sale?
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Old May 16, 2012, 11:18 PM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,688 Posts
You think I could squeeze $3k a month out of it?
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Old May 18, 2012, 12:35 AM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Main Mast

Took off the string and rubber bands and the wooden tube I made last night was just right.
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Description: Rubber bands and string clamp removed

Planed off the ridges and made it 8-sided.
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Description: 8-sided - ridges planed off

Then I plugged the heel and the head to make them solid for about 6" at the bottom, and 8" at the top. A 1/2" square tenon was cut in the heel for the mast step.
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Description: Heel of mast plugged for 6" Name: pri20120517e.jpg
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Description: 8" plug for the head of the mast.

The head is the same as the fore mast head except for a slightly increased rake angle. The head tenon was cut and the fit of the cap checked. The doubling was squared and the taper for the hounds cut in.
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Description: The head of the main is the same as the fore. Name: pri20120517g.jpg
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Description: Tenon cut and cap fits

Then I rounded the mast between the base that stays 8 sided up to about 2" above the deck; to the trestle-trees; and attached the hounds just like the fore mast - glued and pinned with two 1/16" brass rods.
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Description: Planed to almost round, sanded the rest of the way.

I assembled the cross-trees and trestle-trees, glued and pinned; checked for fit
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Description: Cross-trees and trestle-trees. Name: pri20120517l.jpg
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Description: Hounds attached, everything fits.

Finally, the bottom of the mast was painted cream and the head flat black.

Pride now has two sticks.
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Description: Painted and she now has two sticks.

Now to figure out what to make the bowsprit out of.
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Old May 18, 2012, 09:11 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,688 Posts
Bowsprit

I found a nice old piece of pine with a good straight grain and decided to make the bowsprit from it.

The bowsprit is pretty straight forward. It's square from the heel to just outside the bulwark, 8-sided to the end of the knee, and round out to the end. It's 3/4" square but the bottom tapers up to 1/2" so it sits level with the deck, though not on it. The whole thing is 18-3/4" long.

I cut a hole in the bow for the sprit, worked it to size with files.

I put the big cyclops eye on the t'gallant - the Lord Baltimore colors, the emblem of the City of Baltimore. I always thought it was plain ugly, but she had it, so the model gets it too.

If you look close, you'll noticed the waterline has changed. Something always looked off, and I finally set the hull up, leveled it off, and measured somethings, and yep - the waterline was painted 1-1/2" too low at the bow. I'm not sure how I managed, or mangled, that - but I did. So, I restruck the line, masked it off, and took it outside and painted it. Now it looks right.

The Supplex arrived today from Rockeywoods.com.
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Last edited by JerryTodd; May 26, 2014 at 07:49 PM.
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Old May 18, 2012, 11:11 PM
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Joined Oct 2006
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hmmm. i seem to remember we had a baltimore clipper visiting us here in vancouver bc, many years ago...don't know which one though....lookin good....
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Old May 19, 2012, 12:35 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,688 Posts
I'm pretty sure both Pride and Pride II went to Vancouver. I think this boat was there in 83.
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Old May 20, 2012, 02:54 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Bowsprit continued

Today, or rather yesterday, the bowsprit was made 8-sided from just outside the hull to the tip.
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Description: 8 sided

Then from just past the end of the head-knee to the tip, it was made round.
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Description: round

Cut the tenon in the end
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Description: tenon

Installed the shear-pin through the forward bitts - just like the real one had.
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Description: Shear pin

Put a coat of paint on everything and made a cap.
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Description: Bowsprit cap

Then I tried to figure out what the bees should look like. Couldn't find anything in the book, but I knew I had a photo of the bowsprit from aloft somewhere, so I went digging. I actually found the 110 negatives and scanned them straight off.

I cleaned them up, fixed odd angles, and placed them in proper order on a web page
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Last edited by JerryTodd; May 21, 2012 at 02:23 PM.
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Old May 20, 2012, 11:48 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Not a lot done today, got the pump together and added a couple of things to the bowsprit cap.

I was going to set it up for the dolphin striker and the spreaders - but haven't figured out how her dolphin striker was attached yet.
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Old May 23, 2012, 12:12 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Making holes in things

Made a few holes in some things.

After staring at photos of flat black things in shadows until I could hardly see - I guessed at the bees and put them on the bowsprit. It got a few holes in it where the stays pass through.

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Description: Bees and cap

The cap was detailed further with another pair of holes near the top and a couple of brackets for the spreaders. I still have to figure out how the dolphin striker went on.

Two stays come over from the main top mast and pass through a pair of holes in the fore cap. I was concerned that chafing would saw through these holes, so I sleeved them with brass tubing CAed into the holes.
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Description: Sleeved holes in cap

Pride has two bob-stays that attach at two holes in the cutwater. These pierce the fiberglass and plywood keel so these were epoxied in slightly over-sized holes so the epoxy could seal everything around the tubing.
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Description: Sleeved holes in cutwater

There are two hooks in each mast for their peak-halyard blocks. I made these from some 1/16" brass rod. The real ones went through a steel plate on the back of the mast that acted like a big washer. On the front of the mast they were peened over a fender washer.

My problem is the cross-trees won't pass over them if they're permanently put in place. On the real cross-trees they unbolt a bolster to get it over the hooks - I don't have that option. I intend to thread the hooks and put a washer and nut on them so I can remove them if I need to. They'll get cut shorter then.
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Description: Peak halyard block hooks
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Last edited by JerryTodd; May 23, 2012 at 10:01 AM.
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Old May 23, 2012, 07:17 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Bowsprit

Continued on with the bowsprit...

Added the saddle that the heel of the jib boom rests on and and eye bolt on top of the cap for the spreader guys

Made a jib boom. It's 3/8" in diameter and just over 16" long with almost 6" of overlap with the bowsprit.

Then I did the spreaders and dolphin striker. The cleats on the striker are pinned on.

Everything got a coat of paint.
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Last edited by JerryTodd; Nov 03, 2014 at 09:05 AM.
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Old May 23, 2012, 07:25 PM
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must be nice to build something where you know what everything, or almost everything looks like.....i'm surer it avoids a lot of anxiety ........
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Old May 24, 2012, 12:50 AM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
1,688 Posts
It's easier compared to Constellation, but only a little. Little things changed on Pride over the years she was sailing, and since I'm focusing on a certain time in her life, I have to look out for those things when I'm examining images. I really wish I had taken more pictures back then.

Folks doing Pride II have plans available from Model Expo drawn with every detail a modeler needs, and the actual boat is still around, not to mention tons of photos. When I'm looking for Pride data, nearly all I find is Pride II stuff. Then, Pride was pre-digital.
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Old May 24, 2012, 11:36 PM
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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I put guys on the spreaders and drilled the holes for the stays in the job-boom.
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Description: Spreader guys and holes in the jib-boom for the stays.

The collars came in the mail, so I went to work on the tiller. I cut the thick copper sheet I've used for other things, like Constellation's tiller, and shaped it and cleaned it up. I soldered the collar to the end with the set screw off-set to one side so I could access it with an allen wrench.

The copper tiller was curved to match the wooden one and the two are epoxied together with a couple of screws to make sure.

The wooden tiller overlaps the collar and I cut down the rudder post to match. I'll fashion a dummy rudder head to hide the collar, but still allow access to the set screw.
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Description: Wooden tiller gets attached to copper tiller after the collar is soldered to it.
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Description: All together
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Description: and mounted on the rudder head. Name: pri20120524i.jpg
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Description: Allen set screw is offset so I can get to it.

I finally found a spot to photograph the model where the masts don't get lost in the background clutter.
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Description: Found a spot to photo the model where the masts don't get lost in the background - as much. Name: pri20120524p.jpg
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Description:

I fastened in the mast-steps temporarily - they'll get epoxied and screwed in place eventually.

I cut the top masts, but the wood bowed and I can't use them. I took a picture with them sitting on the masts.
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Description: Cut the top masts, but can't use them.
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