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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:29 PM
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I ordered a new fuselage for my corvalis. I took the front off the old one and found out that the nose gear is epoxied into the foam. No way to get the gear out and replace it without tearing up the nose of the plane. As far as ballooning, mine never has done that. It lands great with or without flaps. Just wish they had a better nose gear. It is the part at the top of the pant that breaks. I agree with the other reader, bad design.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:32 PM
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My corvalis wants to climb when I throw the throttle to it. Mos of my planes do. I just add a little down trim if it is too bad. Most of my planes fly best at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 03:09 PM
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Went out to maiden my brand new Corvalis today on an empty new (being built) freeway, and managed to hit the only obstacle in sight on takeoff (a plastic water bottle). Broke the propeller. Hopefully no damage to the motor.

I lost the bolt on the propeller shaft that holds the prop on. What size is it that I need?
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:51 AM
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United States, NC, Greensboro
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodworker30 View Post
I ordered a new fuselage for my corvalis. I took the front off the old one and found out that the nose gear is epoxied into the foam. No way to get the gear out and replace it without tearing up the nose of the plane. As far as ballooning, mine never has done that. It lands great with or without flaps. Just wish they had a better nose gear. It is the part at the top of the pant that breaks. I agree with the other reader, bad design.
Haven't flown mine yet.. waiting for summer... but what is the consensus on how to mod the nose gear..? (havent read the entire thread but will)

I would like to go ahead and avoid problems from the start.. thanks again..
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 05:02 AM
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodworker30 View Post
I ordered a new fuselage for my corvalis. I took the front off the old one and found out that the nose gear is epoxied into the foam. No way to get the gear out and replace it without tearing up the nose of the plane. As far as ballooning, mine never has done that. It lands great with or without flaps. Just wish they had a better nose gear. It is the part at the top of the pant that breaks. I agree with the other reader, bad design.
NOT true at all mate....

take SOME time, and read this forum......changing it out is easy when you know how!



cheers
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 09:43 PM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined May 2012
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Nose Gear / wheel replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by cTrain2kx View Post
Haven't flown mine yet.. waiting for summer... but what is the consensus on how to mod the nose gear..? (havent read the entire thread but will)

I would like to go ahead and avoid problems from the start.. thanks again..
I just replaced the nose wheel on my Corvalis. I got a PZ nosewheel for the Habu, part # PKZ7007. After I cut off the top 2/3rds of the new nosewheel strut, I ground down the top half inch on 1 side of both the new wheel and the bottom half inch of the Corvie's front strut. Once they were both flattened, I used J-B Quik. It took about 10 mins to set. I plan to wrap some wire around the joint and add some solder before I try it out. It's not pretty but maybe I can get more than 2 landings out of this one! We'll see if it works .
Don
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 10:00 PM
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Function is the name of the game. After you test it out and it proves successful (ever the optimist!), smear some Bondo (with glass fiber))around the strut, file and sand to shape, matching the upper section. Not as pretty as the pant, but it will give it that finished look. Nice innovation!
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 06:27 PM
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United States, MS, Picayune
Joined Dec 2011
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Finally airlifted a camera to my Corvalis this evening. It's the 808 keychain camera velcro'd to the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. Certainly not the best, but it was the first time with this plane/camera combo.

Corvalis @ KMJD 0001 (2 min 34 sec)
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 02:09 PM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined May 2012
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Nose Gear / wheel replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by hifinsword View Post
I just replaced the nose wheel on my Corvalis. I got a PZ nosewheel for the Habu, part # PKZ7007. After I cut off the top 2/3rds of the new nosewheel strut, I ground down the top half inch on 1 side of both the new wheel and the bottom half inch of the Corvie's front strut. Once they were both flattened, I used J-B Quik. It took about 10 mins to set. I plan to wrap some wire around the joint and add some solder before I try it out. It's not pretty but maybe I can get more than 2 landings out of this one! We'll see if it works .
Don
The jury's in, DIDN'T WORK! It wasn't the best landing but still shouldn't have sheared the nosewheel off. I'm open for suggestions. Instead of JB Quik I bought some JB Weld and wondering if that would work any better? Anyone have any experience with that?

I tried soldering over the JB Quik but it wouldn't take, just kept rolling off as it melted. But I am wondering if soldering to a clean surface before using the JB Weld would help or hurt? I've ground the 2 surfaces flatter to make a lap joint hoping for a better fit and surface for bonding. Any other ideas, suggestions?

I've never used the axle collars before but seems one around a lap joint would work. Here's a link to a supplier that carries those and maybe even better, a part that I think would be the answer to my prayers.

http://www.radicalrc.com/item/532D-x...xle-Set-103943

It holds the strut and new nosewheel together in a way that seem hard to break. I'm just waiting to hear from RadicalRC.com before I order.
Don
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 03:32 PM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Don,

You could try wrapping the join with fuse wire, then soldering the fuse wire. That can work quite well for undercarriages.

It's better if you can get the solder to fuse onto at least one of the main pieces of metal, but not essential - you'd need to get it really hot and hold the heat on for a long time to do that, and it would probably melt the plastic where it holds the leg. If you get the fuse wire tight, it will hold pretty well just with friction.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:42 PM
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Just picked one up at a swap meet.

Looking forward to the maiden.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:10 PM
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Does anybody know where a spinner and replacement motor shaft can be found?

Thanks
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 01:47 PM
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Manchester, UK
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I expect the Tower Pro shafts will fit, microflitedude - they're M3 threaded too. I'm not sure which model though. Maybe one of the 2409 ones. You'd just need one that's a similar length, and some spare circlips / C clips - you only need one, but they're easy to lose and break when you're trying to fit them.

I'd consider just replacing the whole motor though. It's nothing special and motors are pretty cheap. Shafts that aren't threaded are stronger. Normally a motor expected to draw that much power would have at least a 4mm unthreaded shaft.

I've seen the official spinner listed as a spare part in the UK so you should be able to find one. As they're only plastic, they should be easy enough to adapt to a different motor shaft.
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 08:53 PM
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They guy who owned it before me crashed it, as the nose gear was repaired, the motor mount cracked, the plastic tab in the elevator was broken, and some of the prop shaft was broken off. Nothing major, but the tiny adapter he replaced the spinner with looks out of place. I tried to use the identical one from my Beaver, but it the shaft was too short.

Are there cheap drop-in-fit motors that are PNP?
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 03:27 AM
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You probably won't find a perfect drop in fit, microflitedude. The Tower Pro 2409s would probably be closest, but you might still have to drill some bolt holes, and you'd still have the same problem with the weak, M3 threaded, shaft.

yarsmythejr fitted a different motor by making an adaptor out of plywood. That brings the CG forward a little, which may or may not be desirable. There is room to move the battery back a little though, with some cutting.

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