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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mds47588 View Post
Well......it died.
Servos/Motor too or just the lights?

The lights are not very good to begin with. If they are not working but everything else is ok...forget about it. I cut the wires to my lights after I realized how cheap they were. You won't miss them.

-Lee
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Everything as in no power at all to the plane. The plane is just as dead and lifeless with the battery plugged into the ESC as it is sitting in the corner of my hangar.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 08:41 AM
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No 'recognition' beeps when first plugging in? Yeah, I'd think ESC.
Got another you can swap in? Like, yank one from another plane if needed. Even if not same or higher rating -- just don't run the motor over a couple seconds in testing.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Just got off the phone with Tower Hobbies. I'm gonna return this plane and get the RTF which of course includes the Tactic 6ch transmitter for only a mere $20.00 more.

Edited...and with the $20.00 off with a $150.00 or more order, I got the whole shootin match (minus the txr batteries) for the same price as the TXR ready model.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 11:15 AM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined May 2012
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Years later

[QUOTE=StarHopper44;23379871]Congrats on your successful maiden Don - and welcome to the fold!
The first 5 words of your second sentence in telling of your previous plane experience nearly made me choke on the Nab I was eating. And btw - you owe me for one screen cleaning!
QUOTE]

Thanks StarHopper. All these years later I remember what it felt like to pick up those pieces and try again. I'm retired now and can really do it right. No hurry to feel that way again. But no doubt, a crash is only a flight away! I just prefer to have more flight time than repair time, this time around.
Don
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Corvalis #1 - reference my posts from yesterday. Turned out to be a DOA receiver. Swapped it for a known good 'un and it works fine. HOWEVER...When attempting to fine tune the push rods for the control surfaces it seems that everyone of 'em was cemented into place. I used a fair amount of force and can't get them to budge. My rudder is what needs adjusted and I even tried the adjustment at the base fo the rudder itself to no avail.

Corvalis #2 - As stated yesterday, I ordered the RTF package for the same price...actually cheaper than #1. and I already like the looks of this plane so much I'm gonna keep both of 'em.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 04:29 AM
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3-bladed prop

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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
TY
I'll likely just put it aside in favor of the 3-bladers I've got - will be balancing those today in fact - and save the stock prop for backup. Nitro screwed up & didn't include the spinner with the 3-blade props so that should arrive today-ish. Anyway, I did fly the 'slitted' stocker the 6+ minutes I got out of the maiden with no ill effects so..... ???
I'm gonna need a new prop and was wondering how that 3-blader from Nitro worked out? Can you send a link or stock # on it if it's recommended? Also I only know how to balance helo blades. I just use paper cups or tin cans as balance points but do I need to buy a 'real' prop balancer for these props? Anyone got any other recommendations on props or balancing, I'm open. Thanks,
Don
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 11:38 PM
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The replacement motor Hobbico sent me was defective & the replacement for it arrived only this Thursday, so I haven't had a chance to try it yet. And I won't until I get a satisfactory setup with the stock 2-blade. If you'll bother to research this thread you can find info on the one recommended - I can only tell you it was 8x6x3 (per standard formula for 2-to-3 blade conversions) and one of the other members said he'd been flying the Nitro one successfully so, I got it. I looked on Nitro but the only one I found, (there were 2; one with yellow tip) they show out of stock.

Yes you should get a 'real' balancer. That cups/cans method of heli balancing is static balance, and you need dynamic balance on these blades. You don't just balance until the blades lie parallel to earth - that's only the starting point, tho for some people it's 'close enough'. The prop isn't dynamically balanced until it will stay at any position it's placed thru its 360* arc. The difference - once you get it statically balanced (parallel to earth) you should balance the hub also. Here's an excellent video that demonstrates the principle:
prop balancing video tutorial (5 min 5 sec)

tho I don't neccessarily adhere to his materials usage (no pun intended) but prefer hi-grade electrical tape addition to light spots, vs sanding off heavy spots.
In fact, U-Toob is rife with videos on balancing - check 'em out & see various balancers in use - help you get an idea of which you want.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Props

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
The replacement motor Hobbico sent me was defective & the replacement for it arrived only this Thursday, so I haven't had a chance to try it yet. And I won't until I get a satisfactory setup with the stock 2-blade. If you'll bother to research this thread you can find info on the one recommended - I can only tell you it was 8x6x3 (per standard formula for 2-to-3 blade conversions) and one of the other members said he'd been flying the Nitro one successfully so, I got it. I looked on Nitro but the only one I found, (there were 2; one with yellow tip) they show out of stock.

Yes you should get a 'real' balancer. That cups/cans method of heli balancing is static balance, and you need dynamic balance on these blades. You don't just balance until the blades lie parallel to earth - that's only the starting point, tho for some people it's 'close enough'. The prop isn't dynamically balanced until it will stay at any position it's placed thru its 360* arc. The difference - once you get it statically balanced (parallel to earth) you should balance the hub also. Here's an excellent video that demonstrates the principle: tho I don't neccessarily adhere to his materials usage (no pun intended) but prefer hi-grade electrical tape addition to light spots, vs sanding off heavy spots.
In fact, U-Toob is rife with videos on balancing - check 'em out & see various balancers in use - help you get an idea of which you want.
Thanks Starhopper. I've read the pages but I see a lot of people using what seems like the APC and MAS props but the ones at TH where I bought my bird all seem to have a 0.25 or 3/16" hole. Some of them mention adapters or adapter rings, 5 in some cases. Do you insert them into the 3mm or 0.25" hole to adapt them? I also am eyeing some set screw prop adapters or collet prop adapters at TH and wondering if I could use those to use the 5mm holed props?
Don
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 12:57 AM
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Sounds like you're looking at Nitro type props instead of 'E' type (Electrics).
The holes in the front & the back of the 'E' props with adaptors aren't the same. There's a 'stepdown' inside. Don't worry, the instruction sheets with the props & adaptors show you how they're applied, but they're inserted into the back.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 07:59 PM
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Replacement props

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Sounds like you're looking at Nitro type props instead of 'E' type (Electrics).
The holes in the front & the back of the 'E' props with adaptors aren't the same. There's a 'stepdown' inside. Don't worry, the instruction sheets with the props & adaptors show you how they're applied, but they're inserted into the back.
Thanks StarHoppeer. Sounds like it's OK to use the MAS and APC props if they come with the adapter. And correct me if I'm wrong but those adapters adapt a blade with a larger hole to fit a smaller (3mm) shaft, whereas the collet and prop adapters are used to size the main blade shaft to fit the larger holed props?
Don
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Installed a Dynam 3 blade prop on #2 and removed the main tires/wheels for some rubber one and will be doing the same to the nose tire/wheel this weekend. And then...maidened it. Flew great and was just too kewl to watch the strobes blinking on the all the low and slow flyby's.


For Corvalis #1...it's been traded for a Flyzone ME-190.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:22 AM
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I was at a non-local HS last weekend (we don't have any here) & I bought a 1.75" wheel (2 in the pack; the only one they had in this size) to use on the nose to raise it up for add'l grass clearance, but after getting it home don't like the style of the hub. Not chromed, spoked -- style clashes with the mains.
Might I ask which wheel(s) you went with?
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 07:27 AM
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I'll take a picture of it this evening...check back here in about 12 hours. Not sure of the name brand. Most likely it doesn't even exist anymore as the wheels are at least 20 years old. By today's standards they're heavy too. I've got one on the nose of my 182 that I fly also.

Would it be possible to merely remove the tire and spray a light coat of silver or gray on the wheel as that's what the real Corvalis would have? I like to keep the appearance of my planes as close to the real ones as I can and that's why I left the wheel pants on.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 12:13 PM
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That's all right, don't bother with the pic then. I want something I can buy 'now'.
I've actually got a can of paint with the 'right' pseudo-chrome looking lid - the gold, too - but on finished product it doesn't really look anything like the real thing. I can always just replace all 3 tires & match 'em that way but, you know, like to keep it at least stock appearing. Not really that much of a biggie, here. Still haven't tried the 1.75" yet....I's just kinda fearing once on if they hang out of those pants it/they would look like one of those guys runnin' around with his belt line half under his cheeks, if ya know what I mean.
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