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Old Sep 02, 2011, 05:02 PM
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TripleW's Avatar
Prescott, Arizona
Joined Feb 2010
6,759 Posts
Time for some fiberglass tape! Cut a stip of monocote from the center of the wing and glass it, Sand and paint to match. TW
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Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:26 PM
Tight is Right
Darren Hintze's Avatar
Lehi, Utah, United States
Joined Dec 2001
7,664 Posts
Signing on with a TigerCat project upcoming....
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Old Sep 15, 2011, 04:14 PM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
Welcome Darren. Great to see another Tigercat going together.

Read thru the thread in it's entirety, including the links to the thread on the "other" site. There are a lot of important weaknesses, and fixes, shown. It seems almost every kit has these problems, so far, except the last one, about the weak wing center section. However, taping the center section is definitely suggested, since the only way you would know for sure is to cut open the sheeting.

Good luck, ask questions if necessary, and take lots of pics!
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Old Sep 15, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
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Better yet, a drop of vegetable oil on the axle and all operating joints. Sure made a big difference in the operation of mine. Wish I had thought of it sooner. The metals used in the bushings is so soft they wear out in just a few cycles without oil. Mine are very sloppy, having a lot of movement that was not there originally.
Had a good flying session Labor Day, had most of the fleet out.

Found my main gear very loose again. Found the grub screws holding the main pin loose on both mains, even though I had locktited them both. One of them the threads had loosened. I had to put another lock screw on top of the original to lock it in place.

These gears use three different grub screws, so you have to be careful when you remove them. I did find replacements for all three at Home Depot. Unfortunately, the screws for this pin are the smallest of the three, so...
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Old Dec 13, 2011, 12:41 PM
Nothing Runs Like a Deere
lebus1's Avatar
Central Minnesota
Joined Jul 2008
100 Posts
I read something about "reflexing" on the other Tigercat forum. Has anyone tried it on our version of Tigercat? I've read that you setup a mix to lower your ailerons (some amount) to create lift and drag when the flaps are lowered.
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Old Dec 13, 2011, 12:46 PM
got any foam to bash?
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Lake Grove,LI, NY
Joined Aug 2000
5,366 Posts
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Originally Posted by lebus1 View Post
I read something about "reflexing" on the other Tigercat forum. Has anyone tried it on our version of Tigercat? I've read that you setup a mix to lower your ailerons (some amount) to create lift and drag when the flaps are lowered.
Dropping the ailerons as flaps, not only unwise (induces tip stalls), is NOT "reflexing".

Reflexing is when your RAISE the trailing edge of the aileron slightly to induce and artificial "washout" or twist in the wing to avoid afformentioned tip stalls. This will have the effect of making the model land "faster" not slower but will be safer.

Tom

(who owns one of these and is completely bashing it into a "better" f7f-2 (smaller vertical tail and other things)
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by Tom Hunt View Post
Dropping the ailerons as flaps, not only unwise (induces tip stalls), is NOT "reflexing".

Reflexing is when your RAISE the trailing edge of the aileron slightly to induce and artificial "washout" or twist in the wing to avoid afformentioned tip stalls. This will have the effect of making the model land "faster" not slower but will be safer.

Tom

(who owns one of these and is completely bashing it into a "better" f7f-2 (smaller vertical tail and other things)
Tom is right. You don't want to lower the ailerons at all on this bird. This model does land better at a slightly higher speed, in my opinion, especially if it is slightly heavy, as most builds turn out. It seems to suddenly stop flying and drop from the sky just before touchdown if I use full flaps, (45 degrees.) Mine touches down much smoother using about 35 degrees, which only increases touchdown speed 2-3 mph, visually.

I have not had a problem with this bird dropping a wingtip (tip stall) when getting slow, unlike my Staggerwing, which tip stalls violently, but I wouldn't want to help it along by lowering the ailerons.

@Tom. How about telling us about some of those changes you're doing.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 11:27 AM
got any foam to bash?
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Lake Grove,LI, NY
Joined Aug 2000
5,366 Posts
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Originally Posted by Staggerflyer View Post
@Tom. How about telling us about some of those changes you're doing.
Well... telling is all I can do right now as big as this model is I decided to bring it into work and work on it in my lab (I still work for the "Ironworks") and I cannot bring a camera in there.
I am:

Lengthening the nose gear to scale length and moving it fwd to near scale position and making new nose gear door.

Lengthening the main gear as much as the nacelle will allow (about 1/4") without cutting into it. This will make the model "sit" closer to scale angle with weight on wheels.

Building a -1/-2 smaller vertical tail and rudder. (the -3 vertical tail/rudder supplied with the ARF is wrong! (not tall enough))

Stipped off all the covering material and with glass cloth and paint.

All new Flap and Aileron system that will be VERY close to scale.

Cockpit section and canopy will be removable to access batteries in fuselage.

Inbd LE of wing cooling scoops made functional to cool ESC's mounted in wing.

Others as I think of them...

Cheers!
Tom
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
Sounds interesting, Tom.The cahnges in the fin/rudder may well be good, as the present one is VERY active in crosswind conditions. Also, there is NO hunting/oscillating in forward flight. I don't think you will lose any of that characteristic, other than better taxiing in winds. I'm glad it is slightly undersize for a corrct -3. Since this model does not model the rear cockpit anyway...

I don't like the idea of long battery wires, especially as long as required on these big birds. Mine fit well behind the cowls, and balance perfectly. Yes, it takes a few minutes to change them, but I live with it fine, as does the plane. My ESC's stay the coolest in this bird, which is flown nearly the full flight at 3/4+ throttle, unlike all my other birds, because of the large cooling exit in the landing gear area. Batteries stay very cool, also.

Watch out for all the weak points we've found so far. Everyone seems to have them, and I'm sure there are many more, yet unfound. When you get her out of the restricted area, show some pics. Sounds interesting.

Don
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 01:49 PM
got any foam to bash?
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Lake Grove,LI, NY
Joined Aug 2000
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Originally Posted by Staggerflyer View Post
Sounds interesting, Tom.The cahnges in the fin/rudder may well be good, as the present one is VERY active in crosswind conditions. Also, there is NO hunting/oscillating in forward flight. I don't think you will lose any of that characteristic, other than better taxiing in winds. I'm glad it is slightly undersize for a corrct -3. Since this model does not model the rear cockpit anyway...
Don,
Vertical tails are not sized for stability on twins, they are designed for control power in engine-out situtations. Even the smaller -1/-2 tail is oversize (for directional stability) for a model that should never loose an engine!

Quote:
I don't like the idea of long battery wires, especially as long as required on these big birds. Mine fit well behind the cowls, and balance perfectly. Yes, it takes a few minutes to change them, but I live with it fine, as does the plane. My ESC's stay the coolest in this bird, which is flown nearly the full flight at 3/4+ throttle, unlike all my other birds, because of the large cooling exit in the landing gear area. Batteries stay very cool, also.
yes, Castle Creations ALWAYS recommends long MOTOR leads as opposed to long battery leads. With the ESC's in the wing near the root, the battery leads will not be that long, the motor leads will be longer.


Quote:
Watch out for all the weak points we've found so far. Everyone seems to have them, and I'm sure there are many more, yet unfound. When you get her out of the restricted area, show some pics. Sounds interesting.
Yes, I am going to strengthen the wing center section and also reglue many of the guts to the plastic in the fuse and nacelles. I may get ambitious and glass the entire outside of the fuselage with one layer of 1oz cloth.

I'll get some pics once I get all the "big stuff" sorted out and I can bring some of the sub assemblies home.

I will probably start a new thread once that happens.

Tom
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 08:44 AM
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Moorpark, Ca.
Joined Apr 2004
1,086 Posts
Hi Don,
Got a question for you. how do you attach/detach your wing ends at the field? The screw to secure them is accessed through the wheel wells on each nacell. Did you make a cradle or stand to place the fuse & center wing section upside down? I hope to maiden over the Christmas holidays. Thanks.

Rick
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 10:14 AM
got any foam to bash?
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Lake Grove,LI, NY
Joined Aug 2000
5,366 Posts
Hi Rick

That is the way I plan to do mine. The tube will be permanent in the outer panel. I always make upright and inverted cradles for all my larger aircraft.

Tom
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 12:20 PM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
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Originally Posted by RickAvery View Post
Hi Don,
Got a question for you. how do you attach/detach your wing ends at the field? The screw to secure them is accessed through the wheel wells on each nacell. Did you make a cradle or stand to place the fuse & center wing section upside down? I hope to maiden over the Christmas holidays. Thanks.

Rick
Believe it or not, I merely stand the aircraft on each/either wing tip. (Grass pits/field.) The tubes are permanent in the outer wings, the screw STAYS in the wing in the wheelwell, (only needs to turn out 3-4 turns.) I've tried the inverted way, the working from underneath way, etc, etc. For me, personally, just standing it on it's wingtip works great. It's at/just below head level, (for top/upper wing,) so very little bending, plenty of light, and screwdriver is naturally held. The lower tip screw is high enough I don't have to bend much. I slip both wing ends on, connecting the aileron wires together, push the tips all the way in, then lift and stand. I have to pick up the model from it's assembly point to set on ground anyway, tightening screw is done during that step. (Just snug, no need to wrench on it. The tubes fit tightly. Screws have never come loose.) I don't install batteries till plane is on ground. That's where the weight is in an electric. You fuel powered fliers have an appreciable heavier model at the point I install tips, so it becomes whatever is comfortable for you. My props are always off at this time, also.

Since I always take nearly all my big planes (6) to the field each time, I don't have room in my vehicle for custom made stands. We only have one table at our field that my F7F barely fits on, so I do minimum required on it. I have my foam cradle to hold fuse while wing is installed, then gear extended while on cradle, wingtips slid on, then lifted off, screws tightened, and plane set on ground. With batteries in, It is heavy enough to be unweildly, and I keep hearing that awful "CRUNCH/POP" noise when I have to tighten my grip on the leading edge sheeting.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 12:51 PM
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Moorpark, Ca.
Joined Apr 2004
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Thanks Tom, Don,

My guess is I'll probably morph both ideas and come up with something. I have a construction cradle made from styrofoam, but once the flimsy turtle deck is attached, upside down with it is no longer an option. Thanks for the ideas!

Rick
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
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Originally Posted by RickAvery View Post
Thanks Tom, Don,

My guess is I'll probably morph both ideas and come up with something. I have a construction cradle made from styrofoam, but once the flimsy turtle deck is attached, upside down with it is no longer an option. Thanks for the ideas!

Rick
Exactly. If damage to tip is a problem, a simple pad would be very easy to come up with. The model does balance well on the tip, once up there. The problem with the cradle idea is that mine would not set still in it. It would keep wanting to roll out when one wing heavier. Since table not wide enough, it nearly fell off first time. Cradle quickly lost it's usefulness.
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