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Old Apr 09, 2011, 11:46 AM
Lori, hey, you're home early
CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
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Inspiring pic. I'm getting excited because by the end of next week it should be really warming up here which means I can start building in the garage. I want to get this big cat in the air.

Mike
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 08:28 PM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by corsair nut View Post
has scoops inside and outside the nacelles

it is a pretty bird. i wish they would have done the flaps right though.
Yes, it does/should, but the kit only supplies the outer ones, not the inners.

The ESM version has the split flaps. It is also more scale than this one, but is also much heavier, depite being only inches larger. I've heard reports of it being in the 30lb range.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 08:33 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Mike, you should be able to get her going pretty quick, if you work a regular 8 hour job. I belive she can be assembled and ready to go in less than 3 weeks. If you don't fiddle with the gear doors, two weeks wouldn't be out of the question.

I'm doing spring get ready on my other birds right now. I usually get that done before starting on my next bird, but this year I just didn't have the time.

Good luck, and post some pics, especially if you come up with any better ideas.
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 09:34 PM
DELTAS RULE
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tehachapi, CA
Joined Jan 2006
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stagger, yeah, all the esm warbirds are pretty heavy for the size....thats the nice thing about the ASM. i dont have mine yet, but ive checked out jet mang's and i was really suprised just how light the airframe is for the size. only mods i plan to do are the other side of the flaps, and shorten the ailerons obviously. maybe extend the nose gear a tad, as its kinda short for scale. probably go with more scale tires too......and then maybe do a scuff just, and repaint in all dark sea blue. or, atleast do the decals for stock scheme in a more scale size ect. i might try to do some kind of opening cowl doors to get to the packs. i really like how you mounted them in boxes though!
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Old Apr 09, 2011, 11:54 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Originally Posted by corsair nut View Post
i might try to do some kind of opening cowl doors to get to the packs. i really like how you mounted them in boxes though!
I like how the came out, balancing was perfect, didn't have to move anything.

I found that by using a standard allen wrench, ell shaped, the screws come out very fast. Takes about 5 minutes to change batteries. That's remove and reinstall, while talking and showing it off to onlookers/club members. The wiring using the MPI Ultra Deans series adaptors makes plugging and unplugging the batteries super fast, and don't have to fish wiring and connectors.
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Old Apr 16, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
Got to fly last Tuesday! Annual Safety meeting at work got out early, and the weather was perfect! Loaded all 4 of my big ones in the back of the Explorer and went to the field. There were 8 others out there, also.

Flight 4 on the Tigercat was great until landing time. There was virtually no wind, less than 5mph, and with full flap I almost undershot the runway, as I lowered to much throttle, since there was no wind to slow it down. As I started to flare, the airplane pitched up excessivelly, and I had to hit throttle and execute a go-around. No wingtip drop or anything, just very high nose up attitude, would have hit tail about 8 inches before mains touch. I had put in 60% expo, and it reached the quicker movement point to soon. I brought it in lower with more throttle the next time, and still had trouble. I'm going to remove all the expo and remove some movement on one of the dual rate points on the transmitter. The new Spectrum 8 ch has 3 positions for each D/R switch.

After flying the other 3 aircraft I had brought, basically all trimming flights because they were new to this transmitter, I changed the props on the Tigerkitty from the Master Airscrew 14x9x3s to the APC 15x13.75x3s on 5 cells. First thing I noticed was that it did not seem as fast. It was also slightly tail heavy. Not excessively, and not any harder to handle, just more sensitive to pitch, which really showed up when it came to landing. The pitch up at flare was really bad. The wind had dropped to zero, and the sun had dropped completely below the horizon. It porpoised really bad coming in, and did bounce about 3-4 inches. Only once, tho. Those damped struts really do their job!!!

The 15" props had plenty of clearance, tho. Never touched the ground. Even when taxiing in the grass. The right one did throw some grass up on the fuse, tho. So I'm going to cut the others to 15" inches first, then trim as more is necessary.

Because it was getting late and I still had to dissassemble the fleet, I called it a night, without checking to see if the 15" props would be ok with 6 cells. That will come next time out, which I don't know when will be, since it has turned very cold and windy here, with some rain and snow mixed which is supposed to be thru the weekend and into next week.

Here's some pics of the fleet Tues.
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Old May 01, 2011, 12:29 AM
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Moorpark, Ca.
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Stagger,
What is the prop adapter/hub set up you have? I know you mentioned you're using tru-turn hubs. Is your motor a 6mm shaft? What dia. hub & what adapter did you use? Your TC looks NICE!! I'm a bit of a slow builder. Just now getting to mounting the motors/cowls. I opted to cut a battery hatch into the side of the nacels, building a little box to contain the battery. Not sure yet as to how I'll attach the hatch. Probably small magnets. I think I'll also move the motors forward a little bit sliding the cowlings forward to get a bit more weight in front of the CoG. Blue skies!

Rick
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Old May 01, 2011, 07:58 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Originally Posted by RickAvery View Post
Stagger,
What is the prop adapter/hub set up you have? I know you mentioned you're using tru-turn hubs. Is your motor a 6mm shaft? What dia. hub & what adapter did you use? Your TC looks NICE!! I'm a bit of a slow builder. Just now getting to mounting the motors/cowls. I opted to cut a battery hatch into the side of the nacels, building a little box to contain the battery. Not sure yet as to how I'll attach the hatch. Probably small magnets. I think I'll also move the motors forward a little bit sliding the cowlings forward to get a bit more weight in front of the CoG. Blue skies!

Rick
Hi Rick,
I'm using the bolt on prop drive adaptor that comes with the Rimfire motors. If a collet type is desired, the shaft is 8mm. Collet type does not come with the motor. Prop shaft size of the bolt on adaptor is 5/16-24. I am using the C.B. Associates,inc. spinner adaptor nuts. The one to fit my setup is number 5227, which comes with a 10-24 tapped spinner screw hole. MAKE SURE YOU GET/USE a STEEL prop nut, if your shaft is aluminum, (nearly all electric prop shafts are.) DO NOT USE ALUMINUM PROP NUTS on ALUMINUM SHAFTS!!! They WILL SEIZE!! Even if only hand tightened!!! It took MORE than 1 time to get that thru my thick skull, by the way. Buying new prop adaptors and nuts/adaptors is a hassle.

The Tru-Turn spinners I'm using are the 1-1/4 "B" style (no shoulder) for the 14" prop (smaller hub) and the 1-1/4 "A" style (with shoulder) for the 16" MAS and 15" APC props with larger hubs. The shoulder is the exact difference in hub sizes of the props. Yes, that's a lot of money, the spinners, (actually hubs, according to Tru-Turn, that's how they are listed,) are $18.99 each from Tower, with a small discount more ($1.70) if you buy more than one at a time. Unfortunately, if you buy two of each type, the discount does not become bigger, because they are different stock numbers. But you do save $3.40 over buying one at a time... You could easily get away with using just one size, I did what I did only because I was buying things a little at a time, not all at once. (Took me all winter to get everything bought.) The spinners/hubs come with a 10-32 screw, but none of the CB ASSOC spinner nuts are tapped for 10-32. Most are 8-32, with the 5/16-24 shaft being the only 10 size, which is 10-24, (also available with 8-32 tap,) so you will have to buy new screws. The one that comes with the spinner is also to long. I got my replacement screws at Home Depot/Menard's. Also got my motor mount screws there.

Don't glue your nose cone on the front of the fuse, use two of the little tiny screws that are used for the canopy. The kit comes with two extras, so you have them right there. By screwing the nose on, you have access to a place for nose weight, if needed. The spinners are 2 oz each, by the way. Without nuts. Oh, and the shaft opening in the backing plate is 3/16", so you need an adaptor like what comes with APC props.

Good luck, and take pics.

Due to weather, I haven't gotten in anymore flights, and it looks like I may not for at least a couple more weeks. Bummer.
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Old May 08, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Got another flight in last evening. Wind was quartering from the NE, at about 10-12mph directly quarter to both runways, and blowing directly into pits, which are in sw quadrant of our field. Take-off was fine, but that big rudder needed lots of help to keep her from turning to soon. Trying to keep manuevers lined up with runway was impossible. Landing was the hard part. It wouldn't slow down. Required 4 attempts before I got her down, and then the nose gear collapsed again. I may have to remove the gear door, if just opening the bleed valve on the control doesn't help.

Got a couple good pictures, I hope, of her for our club webmaster. He wants to put the Kitty on the front page. Will post the pics later. Going to go out for awhile this am. Later.

Don
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Old May 08, 2011, 10:36 AM
Lori, hey, you're home early
CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
9,129 Posts
The nosegear seems to be the bugaboo of these big birds. The nosegear collapsed on the ESM TC up at the NEAT Fair. I'm thinking that I'll just bite the bullet and go with the large Eflite etracts for mine. I don't think I'll be able to get the correct forward sweep for the nosegear though.

Mike
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Old May 22, 2011, 12:37 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
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Found the problem on the nose gear. A touch of oil on the ram slide took all the restriction out, and allows the gear to lock easily. Put a drop on the mains also, much smoother and more positive, now. Also redid the system to hold the cables away from the strut when cycling by using the supplied springs and pulling the cables up and away. They also do not put as much tension on the cables as was there with the rubber band. Won't be able to check the fixes out in flight for awhile. I completed repairs over a week ago, but the wind has been 15mph plus and gusty all week, and is scheduled to remain same for most of next week.
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Old May 27, 2011, 08:12 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
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Well bummer. Looks like the Memorial Day Weekend is going to be a complete blow out, literally. Scattered thunderstorms and winds in the 20s plus all weekend. Memorial day winds 30+. Looks like no flying here in Iowa. Cannot check out any of my fixes, yet.
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Old May 27, 2011, 09:59 PM
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Prescott, Arizona
Joined Feb 2010
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I don't feel so bad having to go to work tomorrow. It's supposed to blow hard tomorrow and Sunday. TW
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Old May 29, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
576 Posts
OK, all you guys who are still building yours, and those who have flown them too, need to do some inspections on the rear of the fuse longerons, behind the wing saddle. Check out this entire page on the RCUniverse forum on this plane. Start at the top, and check the pics carefully. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...m.htm#10546647

I just found mine was/is damaged also, while moving the fuse to rearrange my storage area to make room for my next two models. One of my formers is missing the small piece of vertical wood, and the longeron is loose. I am going to make some "[" shaped brackets to epoxy in place. I'm wondering if this wasn't the cause of my twitchyness in pitch on my last landing, now. Gould have been. There is enough movement to possibly cause the overwing hatch to come loose in negative G manuevers, and if aggresive enough, I could see the entire rear of the fuse separating. Will post a pic of mine when I get the camera out to get pics.
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Old May 29, 2011, 03:12 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Pic of what to look for.
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