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Old Feb 18, 2011, 08:05 AM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
Welcome, Warbirdpilot.

I can't help you much with availability in Europe, but here is the link to the manual on the USA seller's website. It does give the info for the EU importer on it. https://www.airtronics.net/index.php...aitfile_id/40/

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-airplane.html

As for electric power needing lighter airframe over nitro, that is no longer the case. All of my electric stuff, except the E-Flite PT-17e, are converted nitro designs, and all fly extremely well, if not better than when nitro powered. So your main choice factor between the two makers should be availability. The ESM version is more true to scale, and more detailed, from what I've read, but also costs more, so...

Good luck, and let us know which one you go with.
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Staggerflyer's Avatar
Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
Recieved my new radio the other day! Just opened it. Now to get back to work on the plane. Will be doing the basic wiring today, (soldering on connectors and figuring mounting.) Then hoping to finish motor mounts and battery box mounting, and final radio mounting.

Will take and post some more pics later.
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Staggerflyer View Post
Welcome, Warbirdpilot.

I can't help you much with availability in Europe, but here is the link to the manual on the USA seller's website. It does give the info for the EU importer on it. https://www.airtronics.net/index.php...aitfile_id/40/

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-airplane.html

As for electric power needing lighter airframe over nitro, that is no longer the case. All of my electric stuff, except the E-Flite PT-17e, are converted nitro designs, and all fly extremely well, if not better than when nitro powered. So your main choice factor between the two makers should be availability. The ESM version is more true to scale, and more detailed, from what I've read, but also costs more, so...

Good luck, and let us know which one you go with.
Thank you for the information Staggerflyer.

On the weight differences of the ASM and ESM:

I assume both planes are equal in size (wing area) and probably they got the same airfoil ( complete airframe) although they are different builts for sure.

So if one is heavier than the other they will have different wing loadings.
As I watched (plenty) of the available videos of the plane flying I'm going to believe that the ESM (which is the heavier one) is basically a HEAVY plane (regarding wing loading). Some models (depending on the equipment used)weigh over 30lbs.

Some seem to have very critical flying characteristics which in no sense I want to have for my own plane.

See this video: (The plane seems to almost stall twice here though the pilot flys it very fast)

first fligh tigercat KMP (3 min 52 sec)


That's the reason I am aiming for a low wing loading on this particular plane and therefore most probably decide for the ASM.

Looking forward on you built...
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Old Feb 18, 2011, 08:51 PM
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TripleW's Avatar
Prescott, Arizona
Joined Feb 2010
6,759 Posts
Here's some specs.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...-airplane.html

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/ESMTIGERCAT83.html
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 11:45 AM
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USA, SC, Easley
Joined Sep 2009
481 Posts
I have the all composite KMP Tigercat converted to electric. It is heavier than the ESM and even heavier than the ASM. Mine weights 29.5 lbs and I have several flights on it. You really don't notice the extra weight like you would think, mine has no bad habits. Stall is only a slight brake to the left but will not bit you. I have even stalled it on landing once and it handled it with out a hitch. Take off and landing speeds are higher but not uncomfortable, you get plenty of feed back if it slows too much. In the air it tracks well. It does not like justy wind, that big rudder causes it to move around quite a bit. The nose gear has alway been a PITA, I have spring airs in it and they can just barely lock the front wheel out.
With 6-8 lbs less it would fly like a trainer.
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Old Mar 28, 2011, 12:51 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
Wow, been real quite here, lately. I've been working my a$$ off at work, 6 days a week, 12-13 hrs a day, no building time. Been getting a small amount of work done on my one day off, but not much. will post some picks later. I have been able to make some preliminary motor runs, but just enough to find out the 15 & 16 inch props are to much for 6 cells. The MAS 14x9x3s show good amp draw on 6 cells. Didn't get draw written down, and haven't checked ICE logs yet, but seem to remember it was in the 85 Amp max area.

Getting final radio mounting, then cockpit and cowling/dummy motor detail and mounting started next weekend, I hope.
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Old Mar 28, 2011, 10:09 AM
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Moorpark, Ca.
Joined Apr 2004
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I've finally started my ASM Tigercat. Hinged and installed servos & connecting rods to the ailerons and flaps. Started working on mounting the motors and will decide on battery access/boxes soon. I'm going with E-flite power 60 motors on 6s, CC 80amp ESCs & APC 15.75 X 13 X 3 props cut down to ~ 14" to facilitate the ground clearance. This same power system gives me ~1300 watts in my H-9 P-40, so X2 should be plenty for the Tigercat. I've seen the landing gear kits on sale at hobby people for $199.99 + struts, so I'm awaiting one of those sales. They were $249.00 last week.

Stagger, what are you using for your radial dummys you mention above & where did you get them. I know that Parkflyer Plastics has some avaliable in the size I think I'd need. They actually turn out quite nice as my Bro-in-law put one in a H-9 Corsair. Thanks for the thread & info.

Rick
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Old Mar 28, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
Wow, that dummy radial looks great. Wish I had known about them earlier. I'm using the Top Flight 1/7 scale units. Got mine at Tower Hobbies. They need a single wrap of insulating foam tape to fit. I used 3/16, I think 1/8 would work also. Used what I had on time.

Better get those retracts fast. Prices are only going up, because of the fast falling dollar against all foreign currencies, thanks to our governments destruction of the economy and the Feds unlimited printing of more.

Here's how my battery mounts came out. I need to make some locks and fillers to hold the batteries in place, and to fill the fit when I use a 2 cell pack in one box, for larger props. My setup reaches auto cutoff when using 6 cell and 15 and 16 inch three bladers, due to excessive amp draw. I plan on cutting those props down to 14 inches, but haven't got that done yet, to try. I have a Scorpion 4025-12 and Castle Phx ICE 100 in a BH P-40 turning the APC 15.75x13x3 prop on 5 cells working fantastic. This was my original power setup plan, but the Scorpions were on long back order.
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Old Mar 28, 2011, 12:19 PM
More Combat Please!
Wind_of_Change's Avatar
Utah
Joined Dec 2003
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Staggerflyer,

So every flight you have to remove the spinner nut & prop and pull off your cowl in order to put in your batteries?

And you have two packs per nacelle?

Isn't there any easier way to set this up? Maybe add a hatch behind he cowl and slide the packs in to the cowl compartment from behind?
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Old Mar 28, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
WoC

The plans show opening the side of the nacelle and making a mount behind the firewall where the fuel tank would mount. Trouble with this setup is that extra weight must be put in the nose for balance. Not much, but stil...

Taking the cowl off is minimal trouble. Three screws, which I may change to super magnets. The spinners are Tru-Turn hubs, one screw, then the prop nut, which does not have to be heavily tightened as on a nitro/gas motor, (no backfires.) Those of us with many large scale electrics don't think twice about cowl removal, as we don't have to worry about working around carb needles and exhaust systems, or fuel lines if using an inline filler mounted on cowl. They usually come off in 30-45 seconds, or less than 2 minutes at most.
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Old Mar 29, 2011, 10:44 AM
Cut the yellow wire
CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
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I'm going to try to design a hinged section of the cowl held closed by a magnet that opens to allow disconnecting the lipo and charging. I know it's a no-no but I leave my lipos in the plane most of the time. I mostly use an FMA charger so I feel pretty safe. I need to get an FMA 10s charger for this plane though.
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Old Mar 31, 2011, 11:29 AM
Dream Build Fly Scale
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Philadelphia, PA
Joined Oct 2004
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Carrera, I have an extra cellpro 10s charger if you're interested. PM if you are, along with what brand of packs you usually run. I'll see if I have a pair of charge leads too.
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Old Apr 01, 2011, 05:52 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
Joined Dec 2007
575 Posts
Got a few days off, end of month and waiting for new contract to start. So got some major work done on the "Kitty." Finished up dummy radials and mounted cowls, made battery hold down straps and spacers for when 2s batteries are required. Detailed 14" props, finished cockpit, and got her ready to maiden! If weather turns out as good as predicted for tomorrow, she may fly! Have some detail work to do, but nothing to stop flying. Just nose art, (on way) and tail markings. Also have to do some final adjustments on gear doors.

Ended up 21 1/4lbs, just slightly nose heavy with gear up and four 3s 5000mah batteries in place.

Some pics
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Old Apr 01, 2011, 06:01 PM
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Tama, Iowa USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Staggerflyer View Post
WoC

Taking the cowl off is minimal trouble. Three screws, which I may change to super magnets. The spinners are Tru-Turn hubs, one screw, then the prop nut, which does not have to be heavily tightened as on a nitro/gas motor, (no backfires.) Those of us with many large scale electrics don't think twice about cowl removal, as we don't have to worry about working around carb needles and exhaust systems, or fuel lines if using an inline filler mounted on cowl. They usually come off in 30-45 seconds, or less than 2 minutes at most.
After I took the pics and weighed her, I took the cowls off to remove the batteries. It was the first time I removed them after mounting, and it took me 6 mins 35 secs to remove both sides and remove batteries. This included dropping the wrench twice, and having to hold on to the wing because my table isn't wide enough for the gear to set on, so it wants to fall over when I take the batteries out.

I plan on getting a bit so I can use my portable drill driver, which will cut a large amount of time off.
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Old Apr 01, 2011, 09:19 PM
Cut the yellow wire
CarreraGTSCS's Avatar
United States, NJ, Trenton
Joined Jan 2004
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Excellent work. She looks fantastic. Good luck with her. I won't be able to build mine until the warm weather returns. I have to build her in the garage since my basement workspace is too small for this big bird!
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