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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:46 PM
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Thanks DanL, JerryTodd, meatbomber and Brooks for all the help and info so far.

Here's what I'm leaning toward. The Futaba 7C 7-Channel 2.4GHz for the transmitter/receiver. Then I'm thinking the Futaba S3802 Sail Servo, since it has a slower speed, more torque, metal gear, and a "check" on their water protected chart. The specs say "Has an arc of 60 it is capable of 140 with a computer radio that has adjustable ATV" which I think the Futaba 7C does. If not I guess I can always get some Servo Stretchers.

Good grief I've learned a lot of new words this week. But my confidence is not high, so I'll probably ponder for awhile before clicking the order button. If anyone has any more thoughts I'd love to hear it. But I'm feeling pretty wed to the idea of rotating the masts and buying the same brand for everything.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 03:07 PM
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Since I've decided to not put anything below deck, and am not happy with how the decking looks around the access panels... time to say goodbye to all the happy hours spent working on those tightly fitting access panels. Ah the ups and downs of the "plan-as-you-go" project lol.

I did some more work making sure the inside of the hull was waterproof, using both wood glue and waterproofing. I then filled the inside with Styrofoam as an "anti-sinking" precaution. Then, horror of horrors, I glued the panels down and redid the deck planks along the edge of the aft panel. I might put another layer of deck planking on after I install the side railing since I'm still not happy with how it looks.





Meanwhile, the basswood for the side rail, forecastle and poop deck have been ordered and I'm finalizing which model of radio transmitter/receiver and servos to buy.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 03:11 PM
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I guess the question I have now is: Scuppers or no scuppers?
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 03:15 PM
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Answer: Of course scuppers.
BTW: Putting all the machinery and batteries on deck - won't that tend to make the model more top-heavy?
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 03:57 PM
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Taran

I made the keel extra large and deep and will be attaching a long metal bar to the bottom to get the Beagle down to its proper waterline. I"m thinking ten pounds or so, which I'm assuming (hoping?) will offset the weight of everything on deck.
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Old Jan 18, 2011, 01:00 PM
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One more question about the transmitter. The Futaba comes with either the airplane or helicopter version of the software. Any idea if one is more suited to customizing for a model sailing ship?
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:34 PM
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Glued the oak transom onto the hull. Hopefully glue will be enough to hold it in place. Painted 1/4 inch basswood strips for the bulwark planking.





After some delay due to bad winter weather the basswood sheets for the bulwarks finally arrived. Glued two of the sheets together and planked with pre-painted strips. Then painted the inside of the finished bulwark pieces white.



Used some weights to try to bend the wood so that the bulwarks would fit onto the deck easier. It worked much better to bend the wood before the glue had a chance to dry.

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Old Feb 13, 2011, 09:48 PM
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Glued the long sections of the pre-made bulwarks onto the deck. Used heavy dumbbells to bend and hold them in place. Had to insert some pins along the port side to get the bend right.



Filled in some gaps between the deck and bulwarks with wood glue and thin strips to get everything looking somewhat watertight. I cut a small "scupper" opening at the bottom of each bulwark at about the mid-ship point to drain any water that might get on the deck.

Since the basswood sheets I was using for the bulwarks wouldn't bend enough around the bow, I ended up carving some basswood blocks to fit. Then I glued two sheets together to fit in-between the long section of the bulwarks and the forecastle.



Finally I glued the more bendable 1/4 strips over both pieces to finish the side planking.





Meanwhile my Futaba 7C rx/tx and sail servos arrived. Happy manual reading time coming up. I've got to figure how (or if) I can program the servos to turn 140 degrees to rotate the masts (since that appears to be the limit on the S3802 sail servos) so I hopefully won't need the added complication and cost of servo stretchers.
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 09:17 AM
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Re-planked the deck now that I don't have access panels to deal with. Looks much better.

Cut 30 gun port "doors" from basswood sheets. The Beagle had seven real and one fake gun port on each side. Since I've decided to only have the forecastle carronade fire, the Beagle's eight cannons will all be stowed lengthwise along the deck (she was a crowded survey ship) and the doors won't actually open. Maybe for my next model...



Cut a groove across each gun port door to simulate the edge of the half port lids. Then I glued on some strips of copper tape to simulate the metal hinges and added a few pricks with a pin to make some rivet marks. Then glued on two 4.5 mm "chain mail" rings I bought from a craft store. Finally a little black paint before gluing to the outside of the bulwarks. The two fake doors were made a little differently.





Painted the other half of the simulated doors white and glued along the inside of the bulwarks, minus the two opposite the fake eighth gun port.

Also made two anchor linings, painted black and white. Can't forget the anchor linings. She's finally starting to look like a brig.

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Old Feb 28, 2011, 01:33 PM
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Added the sheer rail and waist rail to the bulwarks. Really helps to give the side of the ship some detail. The plan is to get her ready to sail first, then tackle all those dozens and dozens of other details later.





Cut a 1/2 inch oak dowel for the bowsprit and a 5/16 dowel for the jib boom/flying jib boom, which will add another 18 inches to the model. Glued the bowsprit onto the deck, along with some extra support structures to hopefully keep it secure. I'll put off permanently attaching the jib boom for easier handling/water testing: rubber bands for now.





Cut the deck for the forecastle and glued onto the bulwarks. Sanded the edges to get the right fit. I'll probably use the space under the forecastle to stow CO2 cartridges for the bb gun carronade.

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Old Mar 06, 2011, 09:12 PM
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Worked on the railing (or whatever it's called) for the forecastle. Couldn't figure out how to get the initial level of basswood strips to bend just right using the clamps I had, so had to hunker down and play 20 minute sessions of "shipyard hold 'em" aka holding-them-in-place-by-hand. Made the rails two planks thick and two high, then added a thicker strip for the top.





Planked the forecastle deck, using the same method as the main deck.





The forecastle's deck should begin about two-thirds up from the height of the bulwarks. Because of how I ended up having to carve and mount the fore bulwarks, I had to place the deck on top instead of recessed. So there is a 3/4 inch elevation to the forecastle rail that shouldn't be there -- although it ended up bringing the front of the forecastle to about the right level, since I didn't curve the deck fore and aft. The bowsprit also ends up coming out of the bow a little lower to the forecastle rail than it should. So a few "historical alternations" starting to crop up, but nothing that would distract the "as-seen-from-shore" viewing of anyone but an expert.

Also added the top railing along the bulwarks. Not sure if I'm going to make a whole bunch of little hammocks to lay on top or not. That would definitely be a "phase two" level of detail for me.
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Old Mar 14, 2011, 12:29 PM
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The poop deck has presented a lot of unforeseen challenges. The plan is to be able to lift the whole thing up a few inches to access the servos and rudder inside. So first I cut the deck out of a 1/4 inch basswood board. Then I planked it using the same technique as the others. So far so good.

Because of how tall the sail servos were I had to raise the poop deck a little higher than planned by adding some basswood strips on the bulwark rails. Then I added 1/2 inch wide planks on either side to hang down over the bulwarks to keep the poop deck in place laterally and (hopefully) make it a little more watertight.

But then I realized that the top of the transom, which acts as the poop deck's aft railing, is now way too short. I thought about trying to add some more wood to it, but, ugh... My poop deck has also somehow gotten a slight twist in it, so it's not laying perfectly flat on the port-aft corner. Double ugh...





So I did a rethink on the poop deck. First I sanded the 1/4 inch deck down to less than 1/8 thick. Next I figured out how to put the servo for the rudder on its side (well hopefully it will work) and cut out the extra rails I had added. So the height now is about where it should be, I just need to figure out how to somehow latch it down securely in the event of the dreaded tip-over.

I'll be drilling a hole into the poop deck for the mizzenmast servo anyway, so it can still be mounted vertically without the height being a problem. I'll probably end up mounting it up through the poop skylight to help conceal and waterproof it, yet another historical alteration. Ah well...



Finishing the rudder went much better. Cut the ends off two pins and used my trusty Leatherman to press them into the rudder's oak dowel. Shaped a square-ish tiller from basswood and pressed onto the pins with wood glue in-between, being careful not to put pressure on the rudder guide. Looks like a pretty secure setup.



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Old Mar 19, 2011, 12:53 PM
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Quick question. How may degrees do you all make your rudder able to turn?
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 07:07 PM
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I use standard airplane servos, thus my rudders swing about 45deg each side.

I believe that long, shallow rudders work better for squareriggers than deep, narrow chord rudders. In my squarerigger experience, the total area of a model rudder needs to be at least 4x the area of the prototypical rudder. And that area is best added to the aft edge of the rudder, rather than to the bottom edge. Making the rudder into a "steering oar" (long and shallow blade) will assist you if you end up needing to scull to complete a tack. Also, the steering oar rudder seems to work better at slow speeds, compared to the deep rudders I've tried.
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 10:14 PM
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Brooks

Thanks for the info. I was curious if there was a "best" maximum degree for steering.

I made my rudder about 3x longer than the original after reading several builds here, so hopefully she'll be ok. I figured that's as long as I could extent the copper covered rudder without looking too funky. Guess I can always add one of those clear clip-on deals if needed.
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