Hi Jack

Yes the regulator has just three connections ... one is a common ground (both input and output -ve are connected to it). The other two connections are +ve in and +ve out.

A diode is basically like a one-way valve, so in principle it can go in either cable to the camera ... provided it's connected the right way round! The band round the diode body (you can see it in my picture) shows the end that goes to -ve.

Good luck with yours!

Excellent, many thanks Bill. I will hopefully do this at the weekend so will let you know how I get on then.

Hello, I have an older jumbo #11 camera and the lens has slightly fogged up due to use in wet weather, can I change the lens or get into it to clean it....what is the best method?

I have a newer model(DOA) it was sold as a 11# jumbo but has the newer usb and detachable 120 lens and battery connections. Is it possible to stick the 120 lens on the old model? The old models lens looks glued on with clear hard gel.

Thanks for any advice!

Originally Posted by jax 808

Hello, I have an older jumbo #11 camera and the lens has slightly fogged up due to use in wet weather, can I change the lens or get into it to clean it....what is the best method?

I have a newer model(DOA) it was sold as a 11# jumbo but has the newer usb and detachable 120 lens and battery connections. Is it possible to stick the 120 lens on the old model? The old models lens looks glued on with clear hard gel.

Thanks for any advice!

Oh, I see, the lens just screws off and that's the sensor underneath right?

Originally Posted by jax 808

Oh, I see, the lens just screws off and that's the sensor underneath right?

Yes. The existing lens may have condensation internally. It might disappear if you store it in a warm, dry place for a while.

PLEASE HELP

A couple of time ago, I bought a camera, maybe a #11 clone, on the ebay. It looks like in the attached file. At the begining a very well working for about 45 min recording time during some mounths. Afterwards time recording time progressively reduced. Now I suceed to record for about 5 min. The ".avi" file could not be read.
I should be very indebted to you if you could let me know if there is a means to repaire it. If not, I will through it.

Yours sincerely,
Georges

Originally Posted by Georges41

PLEASE HELP

A couple of time ago, I bought a camera, maybe a #11 clone, on the ebay. It looks like in the attached file. At the begining a very well working for about 45 min recording time during some mounths. Afterwards time recording time progressively reduced. Now I suceed to record for about 5 min. The ".avi" file could not be read.
I should be very indebted to you if you could let me know if there is a means to repaire it. If not, I will through it.

Yours sincerely,
Georges

That sounds like a dead battery - they don't last for ever.
The 'official' sellers - listed in Posting #2(I think) will sell you a new one for a small sum - 3 or 4 dollars.
Mike

Originally Posted by Georges41

PLEASE HELP

A couple of time ago, I bought a camera, maybe a #11 clone, on the ebay. It looks like in the attached file. At the begining a very well working for about 45 min recording time during some mounths. Afterwards time recording time progressively reduced. Now I suceed to record for about 5 min. The ".avi" file could not be read.
I should be very indebted to you if you could let me know if there is a means to repaire it. If not, I will through it.

Yours sincerely,
Georges

Your picture shows a completely different camera than the #11. Judging from the wide tracks, most probably a very, very inferior camera that cost about $7-$9. You may be able to identify it from Chuck Lohr's site.

This site only handles questions about the #11. You may have more luck in the Mega keyfob thread, but I would think it's high time to buy a real 720P 808
#11, #18 and #16 are by far the most popular. The difference compared to your camera in video quality and camera functionality is gigantic

These cheap batteries don't last forever, and some are better than others.

hi everyone...
i bought the #11 key cam (in the #18 case) and i had a problem.
This is my experience:
- I turn on the camera and I record a 30 minute video... everything was ok! (the video is inside the memory card and the quality was good).
- I deleted the video and turned off the camera.
- I plugged the usb and let the key cam in charge for 1 hour until red light turn off.
- I turn on the camera and I start to record untill the battery run out (it took about 1 hour)
[and this is the only thing i need. I don't mind if video is splitted or entire. I don't mind if i see time stamps... i only need a camera that records and saves video until the battery run out ]
- I plug the camera to usb again and the red light goes on...
- I try to turn on the camera for see the result (yellow light) but nothing happens... The camera seems to charge but I can't turn it on (with or without an sd card, with or without usb plugged)...

My key cam is died?
what happens?

I'm pretty sure the model is the V2 (is the same of this http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9720)

I would like to try to load a new firmware... (I didn't do yet) but in this case should I use this (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...stcount=9323)?

Hope you can help me my friends...

Originally Posted by macaseno

hi everyone...
i bought the #11 key cam (in the #18 case) and i had a problem.
This is my experience:
- I turn on the camera and I record a 30 minute video... everything was ok! (the video is inside the memory card and the quality was good).
- I deleted the video and turned off the camera.
- I plugged the usb and let the key cam in charge for 1 hour until red light turn off.
- I turn on the camera and I start to record untill the battery run out (it took about 1 hour)
[and this is the only thing i need. I don't mind if video is splitted or entire. I don't mind if i see time stamps... i only need a camera that records and saves video until the battery run out ]
- I plug the camera to usb again and the red light goes on...
- I try to turn on the camera for see the result (yellow light) but nothing happens... The camera seems to charge but I can't turn it on (with or without an sd card, with or without usb plugged)...

My key cam is died?
what happens?

I'm pretty sure the model is the V2 (is the same of this http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9720)

I would like to try to load a new firmware... (I didn't do yet) but in this case should I use this (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...stcount=9323)?

Hope you can help me my friends...

I have recently had the same problem, albeit with a very old #11 running the latest firmware. First the camera destroyed my card when the battery ran low and the camera turned off. The card is no longer recognized, even when using an external reader. Then, like you, I had problems turning on the camera. However, I managed about two or three times to get the camera running again by pressing the reset button, but now it is completely dead. Replacing the battery with a known good and fully charged battery didn't help.

I don't know if our two problems are related but I have a feeling there is a link between the battery running low and the latest firmware.

I suggest you disconnect/reconnect the battery and use a new card. If you think you can manage, try removing and re-inserting your lens. I couldn't do this since my lens is soldered to the board.

If everything fails, I would contact your seller for a replacement

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I have recently had the same problem, albeit with a very old #11 running the latest firmware.

At last I think the problem is the opposite... Old firmware with new hardware (my key cam is this http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9720)

Originally Posted by Isoprop

...
If everything fails, I would contact your seller for a replacement

[would you contact the seller for me? in this case the seller is http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...uk/eletech086]

This is the second key cam that seller sent me after the first one that had the same problem in january... and I just received it yesterday!

Its very sad... I have to send it back again? It took 2 month last time...

Hi empeabee and Isoprop,

Thank you for the answer. I will buy a #16. It is prety that there is not a simple and robust possibility to debug this type of camera.

Yours,
Georges

Hi Georges

The #16 is a big improvement - much nicer to use. I still have a #11 but I consider it 'disposable' now!

As an aside there are new versions of the keyfob coming along very shortly that are slightly larger/heavier but will give higher quality ... including the option of 60 fps. E.g.

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C26/index.html

So you might want to wait a couple of weeks for one of them (depending on cost etc.). They say the #16 will remain in production though.

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Hi Georges

The #16 is a big improvement - much nicer to use. I still have a #11 but I consider it 'disposable' now!

As an aside there are new versions of the keyfob coming along very shortly that are slightly larger/heavier but will give higher quality ... including the option of 60 fps. E.g.

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C26/index.html

So you might want to wait a couple of weeks for one of them (depending on cost etc.). They say the #16 will remain in production though.

No information about if it will come with AV out ... but it is looking interesting



I see #18 prices are dropping already ...

Originally Posted by macaseno

At last I think the problem is the opposite... Old firmware with new hardware (my key cam is this http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9720)



[would you contact the seller for me? in this case the seller is http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53...uk/eletech086]

This is the second key cam that seller sent me after the first one that had the same problem in january... and I just received it yesterday!

Its very sad... I have to send it back again? It took 2 month last time...

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Hi Georges

The #16 is a big improvement - much nicer to use. I still have a #11 but I consider it 'disposable' now!

As an aside there are new versions of the keyfob coming along very shortly that are slightly larger/heavier but will give higher quality ... including the option of 60 fps. E.g.

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C26/index.html

So you might want to wait a couple of weeks for one of them (depending on cost etc.). They say the #16 will remain in production though.

I'm sorry, but I have no relationship with your supplier so can't possibly contact him on your behalf .

I think the problem could be with the new GUI firmware versions. I never had problems with the old, non GUI versions and regret I updated all my old #11s. The new firmware is much better configuration-wise, but pretty useless if it destroys cards and bricks itself.

I know it's no help, but it seems a good number of others have also had problems with this camera so, in the long-run, have to agree with Bill Glover until these problems are fixed.

Tom has mentioned the #16 developer also has a new 1080p in the pipeline, so it may be a better choice than the #26. We'll see when these new generation cameras vaporise. There's no point in speculating.

please excuse if this is not the perfect place to post this
but I just want a good 720 for basic movies off my small plane
audio is not required (if I have a choice )
I like the look of this on and it is from an ""approved"" vendor (post #2)
but beyond that ? i am lost
please inform me as to performance if you can
yes I know the betterones are coming but I just wanted a cheap good
camera for small plane...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Car-Key...item25699062be

or is this one lots better ?
http://www.sourcingplaza.com/808-car...py-camera.html

Originally Posted by Isoprop

I think the problem could be with the new GUI firmware versions. I never had problems with the old, non GUI versions and regret I updated all my old #11s. The new firmware is much better configuration-wise, but pretty useless if it destroys cards and bricks itself.

Thanks Isoprop... but at last i didn't know (and I still don't know) which firware is istalled. The key cam broke when i tested just out of the box, it was brand new.... and i can't istall another fimware because the key cam is completely died... however... :-)

I contacted the seller saying him if i can change the key cam with another model (number #18 seems to have much solid firmware)... do you think i'm doing the right choice? what do you recommend? I bought from eletech086 and him have more products... i can pay the difference. i would to know which key cam do what i want:
-record in 720p (minimum) [1080p it would be interesting but not required]
-the same dimension and forms of model #11
-and it's very important can save the whole video when battery run out (don't mind if splitted or entire)

and of course don't broke just when i try it... :-)

thanks a lot

Originally Posted by macaseno

Thanks Isoprop... but at last i didn't know (and I still don't know) which firware is istalled. The key cam broke when i tested just out of the box, it was brand new.... and i can't istall another fimware because the key cam is completely died... however... :-)

I contacted the seller saying him if i can change the key cam with another model (number #18 seems to have much solid firmware)... do you think i'm doing the right choice? what do you recommend? I bought from eletech086 and him have more products... i can pay the difference. i would to know which key cam do what i want:
-record in 720p (minimum) [1080p it would be interesting but not required]
-the same dimension and forms of model #11
-and it's very important can save the whole video when battery run out (don't mind if splitted or entire)

and of course don't broke just when i try it... :-)

thanks a lot

The #18 is identical to the #11! I can only recommend the #16 until the low-battery bug is solved. Unfortunately your seller doesn't stock the #16 because it's from his competitor. Maybe ask your seller to fully test your camera when the battery dies before he sends it to you. I'm afraid I don't have any other advice, it's just a very unsatisfactory situation.

My #11 today just decided on his own to shut down after 4m10s of video

Battery should not be that low .. and it was not that cold outside, (+3 deg, so above the freezing) ... any idea?

At least it was not a total fail, but I lost over 50% of my test video

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

My #11 today just decided on his own to shut down after 4m10s of video

Battery should not be that low .. and it was not that cold outside, (+3 deg, so above the freezing) ... any idea?

At least it was not a total fail, but I lost over 50% of my test video

That's still too cold for a normal duration from a lipo cell. Your battery may also be wearing out. It may charge to essentially full voltage, but cannot maintain voltage as well as it delivers current due to internal cell plating which increase internal resistance.

Originally Posted by K9000wner

please excuse if this is not the perfect place to post this
but I just want a good 720 for basic movies off my small plane
audio is not required (if I have a choice )
I like the look of this on and it is from an ""approved"" vendor (post #2)
but beyond that ? i am lost
please inform me as to performance if you can
yes I know the betterones are coming but I just wanted a cheap good
camera for small plane...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Car-Key...item25699062be

or is this one lots better ?
http://www.sourcingplaza.com/808-car...py-camera.html

Neither of the two cameras you've linked to are 720p, they are lower resolution.

There are several genuine 720p models available, but they are more money than the two SD cameras you've listed, so have a look at Chuck Lohr's website where he lists your options.

I personally like the #16.

I've got the key chain camera and weight is about 16g. I'm looking for something about 8g to put on a Hubsan X4. I was hoping someone here might know of something.

Thanks,
Fred

Originally Posted by fredle

I've got the key chain camera and weight is about 16g. I'm looking for something about 8g to put on a Hubsan X4. I was hoping someone here might know of something.

Thanks,
Fred

Just look the previous pages of this thread, and you will see how to light up the #11 on a X4

Oh - cool!

Thanks,
Fred

thanks airmob

still confused as I thought ...
Video Format : AVI
Video Encode : M-JPEG
Video Resolution: 720*480. ****************
Video Frame Rate: 30 fps

that was what I was looking for...
didnt want to spend 40-50$ on #16 / #16v2
perhaps someone wants to tradeup ...let a good #3/#11 go?

just for kicks can anyone Identify ....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Car-Key...item25699062be

Thanks for you r help

Originally Posted by K9000wner

thanks airmob

still confused as I thought ...
Video Format : AVI
Video Encode : M-JPEG
Video Resolution: 720*480. ****************
Video Frame Rate: 30 fps

that was what I was looking for...
didnt want to spend 40-50$ on #16 / #16v2
perhaps someone wants to tradeup ...let a good #3/#11 go?

just for kicks can anyone Identify ....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Car-Key...item25699062be

Thanks for you r help

#18 cost 29.9$

Walkeria Dv04 , cost 27$ shipped ..

This 15$ cam is look a very bad pick up from ebay ... I got a similar one years ago for much lesa, before HD key cam arrived on market

Originally Posted by K9000wner

thanks airmob

still confused as I thought ...
Video Format : AVI
Video Encode : M-JPEG
Video Resolution: 720*480. ****************
Video Frame Rate: 30 fps

that was what I was looking for...
didnt want to spend 40-50$ on #16 / #16v2
perhaps someone wants to tradeup ...let a good #3/#11 go?

just for kicks can anyone Identify ....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-Car-Key...item25699062be

Thanks for you r help

Cameras like you are looking for are discussed in the "mega keyfob camera" thread. There's about a dozen of them now, and you might get more input in that thread. I still have a couple of the original #3 cameras in good working condition, but for what they are worth used, it's not worth parting with them.

Ok thanks for the help

over n out

Well my #11 has served me well. I was wondering, don't remember reading, can you record and output at the same time with the #11? For micro FPV?

Only with the #16 V2, AFAIK.

Originally Posted by Bill Glover

Only with the #16 V2, AFAIK.

#18 too

Walkera DV04 also (the cheapest of all in HD, only 27$ shipped)

Originally Posted by timetec

Hi everyone - It's been a good while since I last posted, so I thought I'd share a mod that will eliminate the annoying 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts, as the battery starts to run down on your #11 camera. This issue was addressed of course with the launch of the #16, but to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, still remains a problem with #11.

As a bonus to this relatively simple fix, your battery life should be extended by around 15% (in tests), adding 6 minutes or so to your current recording time using a good 250mAh LiPo cell
The cause of these sound and video issues centres around the stock 3.3V voltage regulator fitted on the front (USB socket side) of the PCB. The IC is a 5-pin SOT-25 device marked 4A2* - the * is the batch code and will be a letter such as B D or C etc. The regulator fitted is a TOREX XC6204332 - datasheet HERE

Technical stuff :

There are two major problems with this factory fitted regulator : 1/ It has a maximum current rating of 150ma, but typically the device has to deliver over 100ma continuously and subsequently gets hot, wasting precious power. 2/ It has a high dropout voltage of 200mv (0.2V) rising to over 300mv at 100ma - this has a marked effect on the available recording time of the camera.

The replacement, a Texas Instruments TPS73633DBVT - datasheet HERE has a rated output current of 400ma, limited at 800ma. As a result it runs cool, disipating very little power.
In contrast, the dropout voltage of the TI regulator is specified at 75mv. However in practise it's much lower than this - I measured a miniscule dropout of just 26mv with a 100ma load.
The NMOS output stage and clever high frequency 4Mhz charge-pump make it a very efficient, low noise and reliable replacement for the original regulator.

I can't recommend this modification highly enough and at a cost of around 65 pence / $1 excluding shipping, makes it a very worthwhile and satifying mod. You may even be able to get a free sample from the TI website.
Yes, the regulator can be a bit fiddly to swap out if you're not used to handling surface mount devices, but after disconnecting the battery you can wrap the whole PCB in tin foil, neatly cutting out a small square hole where the regulator is. This will prevent solder splashes getting onto the PCB, as well as acting as a perfect anti-static sheild for the board. By far the easiest way to remove the IC, is to surround it in flux paste and heat the plastic package directly until the solder on all five legs melts. It can then be gently lifted off the board with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

You will notice from the TOREX datasheet that pin 4 is not used - NC (no connection), while the TI device uses this pin for a noise reduction capacitor (NR).
It appears that the the camera manufacturers decided to fit a 10nf capacitor to the PCB to cover all eventualities when sourcing 'equivalent' components.
If required, the value of this capacitor, circled in yellow on the third photo, can be increased in value from 10nf to 100nf to acheive a noise level of below 30 microvolts using the TI device specified here.

Have fun - Richard

Hello,

I made this mod to my second gen #11, the one after the initial batch, which allows you to install no timestamp firmware. A quite early batch.
The PCB differs a little though to the photos that have been uploaded.
It does not have a capacitor or diode above and to the left of the voltage regulator. Here is the PCB with the LDO removed.


However the mod fixed the low voltage buzzing in sound the battery life got shorter instead of better.
Before the mod the battery lasted for 37mins recording @10.8K bitrate @4K cluster size formatted card @ Rel 1 firmware.
After 29mins 30 sec the buzzing was present to the video.

After the mod the battery lasts for 29mins 50sec. Exactlly as it is with the stock voltage regulator with no buzzing.
So I lost 7mins of recording time actually.
Hopefully the video is still saved if the battery gets exhausted.

By the way. I found easier to cut the chip`s legs with a sharp surgical blade, just being careful not to cut any traces on the PCB.
Then it was very easy to unsolder the remaining individual legs and solder back a fresh TI TPS73633DBVT with the help of a pen soldering iron and a ERSA 0832UD/SB tip. Using this tip I could even desolder and solder back a 0402 resistor.

Ohh, for anyone insterested the capacitor size is 0402, as it is with almost the majority of the SMD components there.

A good mod but unfortunately is not good for my version of PCB as it seems.


Modifications to reduce audio interference

This mod, the resistor and the capacitor, did not worked either. One camera has white noise if ambient audio level is low or it is quite/noone speaks, etc. If it is then the camera starts increasing the white noise level but if there is a sufficient audio level then it keeps the white noise level low.
Like it is trying to maintain a sound level to a given value or something, either with actual sound or white noise.

PS. I am very happy with both of my early #11`s. Both running Release 1 "exposure control" firmware, capturing at 10.7K bitrate with very sharp image and no focusing problems either if it is a close or distant capture.
And I DO like the colors as mostly I shoot personal videos (my kid) and vacation stuff.

Just to add, from what I believe the TPS73633DBVT voltage regulator changed the following:
It did not helped at all with its lower dropout voltage as it shuts down by the low voltage triggering (Enable pin of the LDO) when battery gets low.
So if I needed to extend the battery life I would had to mod the output of the "enable" output - I think.
As soon as the "enable" voltage gets low and the Torex LDO would start giving buzzing the TI LDO now shuts down.


So, it is far easier, safer and cost efficient to just replace the cover of the camera to a new bigger type and the battery to a 502030 (which fits with the help of the bigger case) or 602035 (which I wait to see if it fits).

Looks like the 808 #26 is going to be a bit bigger. I have the 720p version that does the 120 degree angle of view. What AOV does the new 26 have? Looks more narrow. Will they do a 120 degree version?

Originally Posted by hidaven

Looks like the 808 #26 is going to be a bit bigger. I have the 720p version that does the 120 degree angle of view. What AOV does the new 26 have? Looks more narrow. Will they do a 120 degree version?

Any information that is currently available, is in this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1867332

Originally Posted by hidaven

Looks like the 808 #26 is going to be a bit bigger. I have the 720p version that does the 120 degree angle of view. What AOV does the new 26 have? Looks more narrow. Will they do a 120 degree version?

I don't have this camera for evaluation yet, but most likely the 1280x720 video is a sub-sampled smaller area of the bigger 1080p imager. This smaller portion of the imager reduces the apparent AOV of the recorded image proportionally. It's probable the lens has an AOV close to 120 deg. to fully cover the 1920x1080 imager pixel array with enough over-coverage to eliminate much of the vignetting that occurs naturally at the extreme edges of the lens.

Once someone can get a sample camera in hand to do some testing, this is all speculation, however.

All.

Please could the good folk on here suggest to me the optimum settings for the 808 #16 V2 camera that would give me maximum recording time on a 32GB class 4 micro SD card.

My only Two requirements are best quality (HD) video and date / time stamp.

What would be the approximate maximum recording time I could expect from the suggested settings using the aforementioned 32GB card ?

The camera would be used in my truck and would be permenently connected to a power supply.

Regards, The Soulman.

Originally Posted by The Soulman

All.

Please could the good folk on here suggest to me the optimum settings for the 808 #16 V2 camera that would give me maximum recording time on a 32GB class 4 micro SD card.

My only Two requirements are best quality (HD) video and date / time stamp.

What would be the approximate maximum recording time I could expect from the suggested settings using the aforementioned 32GB card ?

The camera would be used in my truck and would be permenently connected to a power supply.

Regards, The Soulman.

You've accidentally posted in the wrong thread, you want the #16 thread that you've previously posted in.

Originally Posted by The Soulman

All.

Please could the good folk on here suggest to me the optimum settings for the 808 #16 V2 camera that would give me maximum recording time on a 32GB class 4 micro SD card.

My only Two requirements are best quality (HD) video and date / time stamp.

What would be the approximate maximum recording time I could expect from the suggested settings using the aforementioned 32GB card ?

The camera would be used in my truck and would be permenently connected to a power supply.

Regards, The Soulman.

Originally Posted by airmob

You've accidentally posted in the wrong thread, you want the #16 thread that you've previously posted in.

Besides being in the wrong thread, the max. recording times have been posted a few times in both this thread and the #16 thread. The recording times of the #16 are the same as the #11 which is approx. 10 hours for a 32GB card. The times vary with movement and lighting. I only use 7mb/s data rate because I see no difference between the 7mb/s and the 10mb/s settings. If you use 10mb/s I expect you'll get considerably less recording time.

Just received this camera from this guy. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1910359

and really the video quality is really crappy. is this real #11?

Originally Posted by lightfighter363

Just received this camera from this guy. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1910359

and really the video quality is really crappy. is this real #11?

No .. you got a fake #11 cam ...

See post #1 for where to source and how is looking the real cam

Originally Posted by lightfighter363

Just received this camera from this guy. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1910359

and really the video quality is really crappy. is this real #11?

...

No.

You can see what a #11 looks like inside here.

I think you've got a #9.

That's what i thought.

he is selling another one.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1913462

Yeh he's Bad bad guy DONT BUY IT PLEASE !!! OMG I posted the video for you to look at and you did not do it !!! And for the 100 th time send it back in working order like it was sent to u and get the $ back . OMG I'VE NEVER SEEN SOMEONE POST ON EVERY THREAD AND START A NEW THREAD ABOUT A $24 can that you didn't take 5min to learn about . I based my post and threads on the video I POSTED WHEN I SOLD IT AND I BOUGHT IT FROM THE SAME SELLER THAT THE GUY IN VIDEO BOUGHT HIS FROM !! Don't you think your getting a little shall we say well let's just leave it there . For the last time PM SAYS 10 TIMES SEND IT BACK K?

Originally Posted by lightfighter363

That's what i thought.

he is selling another one.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1913462

Originally Posted by Gavinxman

Yeh he's Bad bad guy DONT BUY IT PLEASE !!! OMG I posted the video for you to look at and you did not do it !!! And for the 100 th time send it back in working order like it was sent to u and get the $ back . OMG I'VE NEVER SEEN SOMEONE POST ON EVERY THREAD AND START A NEW THREAD ABOUT A $24 can that you didn't take 5min to learn about . I based my post and threads on the video I POSTED WHEN I SOLD IT AND I BOUGHT IT FROM THE SAME SELLER THAT THE GUY IN VIDEO BOUGHT HIS FROM !! Don't you think your getting a little shall we say well let's just leave it there . For the last time PM SAYS 10 TIMES SEND IT BACK K?

What a hack is this

Actually ... at second though ... there is nothing to smile about it.

#11 is #11 ... and the picture that I see before, that somebody sold as #11 ... was clearly a bad bad cheating ...

#11 is #11 ... Cristal clear to detect from the jungle of keycam ... it is the oldest , and the first good 720p ... in these days the best is #16 ... followed by a little by #18 and #11 ... original #18 that is better then #11 .. cost 29$ shipped ...

Originally Posted by lightfighter363

That's what i thought.

he is selling another one.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1913462

WHAT'S THIS SAY
NOTE: POSTS #1-#5 ARE NO LONGER BEING UPDATED BY YOURS TRULY AS OF 05/07/2012. THE ORIGINAL #11 WAS A LATE 2010 VINTAGE CAMERA AND HAS NOW BEEN TOTALLY RE-DESIGNED WITH A DIFFERENT CIRCUIT BOARD (EASILY DIFFERENTIATED BY THE THINNER 8-WIRE MINI-USB PLUG), DIFFERENT CABLES, A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT (THICKER) CASE, AND MOST IMPORTANT, DIFFERENT FIRMWARE! AS SUCH, MUCH OF THIS EARLY INFORMATION, ESPECIALLY THE FIRMWARE, IS NO LONGER APPLICABLE TO THE LATEST DESIGN! ALSO, THE DEVELOPER HAS RELEASED A MORE CAPABLE VERSION (THE #18), BUT THIS THREAD IS BEING KEPT OPEN FOR ON-GOING DISCUSSION AND WILL BE SUPPORTED MOSTLY BY OTHER MEMBERS HERE WHO FREQUENT THIS THREAD AND ARE STILL USING THE #11 CAMERA. ENJOY!

DID YOU EVEN READ THE 1st page of this thread ??? DO YOU READ OR WATCH ANY HELPFUL VIDEOS OR THREADS BEFORE YOU BASH SOMEONE WITH + feedback AND WHO HAS TOLD YOU 10 times to send it back NOT BROKEN and ill refund your $ in like 10 Pms??? No you started threads , posted in 4 and sent me 5 pm lolo OMG READ AND WATCH VIDS !! Before you buy anything just like that disco you didn't buy but I will . Great ? Look no hard feelings but THIS IS NOT HOW IT WORKS !! All you had to do was send me 1pm and let me see what your not happy with and LIKE I SAID I WOULD HAVE SAID JUST KEEP IT AND ID SEND YOUR $ BACK JUST TO MAKW YOU HAPPY SINCE ALL THIS ID ASK YOU TO PLEASE SEND BAVK THE WORKING Cam and ill refund your $$ no need to trash me in 100 threads just 1 pm would have been fine . Thanks

Originally Posted by Gavinxman

WHAT'S THIS SAY
NOTE: POSTS #1-#5 ARE NO LONGER BEING UPDATED BY YOURS TRULY AS OF 05/07/2012. THE ORIGINAL #11 WAS A LATE 2010 VINTAGE CAMERA AND HAS NOW BEEN TOTALLY RE-DESIGNED WITH A DIFFERENT CIRCUIT BOARD (EASILY DIFFERENTIATED BY THE THINNER 8-WIRE MINI-USB PLUG), DIFFERENT CABLES, A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT (THICKER) CASE, AND MOST IMPORTANT, DIFFERENT FIRMWARE! AS SUCH, MUCH OF THIS EARLY INFORMATION, ESPECIALLY THE FIRMWARE, IS NO LONGER APPLICABLE TO THE LATEST DESIGN! ALSO, THE DEVELOPER HAS RELEASED A MORE CAPABLE VERSION (THE #18), BUT THIS THREAD IS BEING KEPT OPEN FOR ON-GOING DISCUSSION AND WILL BE SUPPORTED MOSTLY BY OTHER MEMBERS HERE WHO FREQUENT THIS THREAD AND ARE STILL USING THE #11 CAMERA. ENJOY!

DID YOU EVEN READ THE 1st page of this thread ??? DO YOU READ OR WATCH ANY HELPFUL VIDEOS OR THREADS BEFORE YOU BASH SOMEONE WITH + feedback AND WHO HAS TOLD YOU 10 times to send it back NOT BROKEN and ill refund your $ in like 10 Pms??? No you started threads , posted in 4 and sent me 5 pm lolo OMG READ AND WATCH VIDS !! Before you buy anything just like that disco you didn't buy but I will . Great ? Look no hard feelings but THIS IS NOT HOW IT WORKS !! All you had to do was send me 1pm and let me see what your not happy with and LIKE I SAID I WOULD HAVE SAID JUST KEEP IT AND ID SEND YOUR $ BACK JUST TO MAKW YOU HAPPY SINCE ALL THIS ID ASK YOU TO PLEASE SEND BAVK THE WORKING Cam and ill refund your $$ no need to trash me in 100 threads just 1 pm would have been fine . Thanks

If you sold for #11 the camera visible on picture above ... you should hide yourself ... and stop trolling here.

The photo posted above are not a #11 or any version of it, ANY.

All #11 camera, even first release all have the Novatek chip.

The photo posted above clearly have nothing to do with #11 and there is no sign of it in the pictures ... The Novatek chip is the stuff that make the difference for this little cam in real 720p HD

Originally Posted by Gavinxman

Yeh he's Bad bad guy DONT BUY IT PLEASE !!! OMG I posted the video for you to look at and you did not do it !!! And for the 100 th time send it back in working order like it was sent to u and get the $ back . OMG I'VE NEVER SEEN SOMEONE POST ON EVERY THREAD AND START A NEW THREAD ABOUT A $24 can that you didn't take 5min to learn about . I based my post and threads on the video I POSTED WHEN I SOLD IT AND I BOUGHT IT FROM THE SAME SELLER THAT THE GUY IN VIDEO BOUGHT HIS FROM !! Don't you think your getting a little shall we say well let's just leave it there . For the last time PM SAYS 10 TIMES SEND IT BACK K?

What's wrong with him asking for help identifying a camera?

A true #11 camera is 720p HD, the camera shown is lower resolution of which can be bought new on eBay for about $6.

Before selling any more, please check which models you have by referring to Chuck Lohr's website.

Originally Posted by airmob

What's wrong with him asking for help identifying a camera?

A true #11 camera is 720p HD, the camera shown is lower resolution of which can be bought new on eBay for about $6.

Before selling any more, please check which models you have by referring to Chuck Lohr's website.

Thanks I gave the other one away for free and I checked it with pic of the #11 and it looks just like it and the cam I sent that guy doesn't look like the one he's posting ALL OVER RCG !!!! I also shot a short vid with it and it was great !! almost as nice as my iphone5 ! So what's to say it is the one I sent and he says 2 clips r broke BS!!!! I can only wait for it to come back . And to the other guy DONT CALK ME A TROLL KEY BOARD WORRIER (;-) I got just as much right to post and sale and read and look as ANYONE !!!! K ? K when the guy send it back LIKE I TOLD HIM 4 times and its the one I sent him ( and ill know ) ill gladly refund his $ and if he would LIKE I SAID 3 times just sent a pm and said he wasn't happy I would have said just keep and I would have sent his $24.17 back in 3 clicks !!! This is stupid and would this happen IF WE WERE ALL GROWN MEN ON HERE AND NOT JUDT IN PERSON !?? I think not people say more with a key board than with there mouth that's why I hardly ever sale anything !!! Thanks guys for your help

That's the link I posted in my for sale thread but he did not catch that flick http://www.chucklohr.com/808/index.shtml

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

No .. you got a fake #11 cam ...

See post #1 for where to source and how is looking the real cam

That's not the cam I sent him !!!! We will see if and when it comes back . And FYI if I was a "WORKING ENGINEER" I'd buy new !!! I'm done till I get my cam back . But all he had to do was say " I'm not happy " and in 3 clicks I would have sent $ back and said just keep it and that would have been the end of it . $24.17 and 3 hours of my time reading posting and shipping now this !!! Idts that's why I don't sale anything but son wanted a gopro for his new TBS DISCO !! And so now this BS !! Lolo oh well have a gear day and thanks to the guys that tried to actually help and not JUDGE but there's a lot of judges on the Rc site for sure . To many great and powerful wizards lololo geeks !! Thanks RCG

Originally Posted by Gavinxman

That's not the cam I sent him !!!!

are you freaking kidding me? you think i am going to make this up? i did this because i want to make sure that you sent me a real #11. you are unbelievable. you need to stop the lying part and get straight and be honest. what a shamed to fool a person for $25. i told you, i don't mind paying but make sure you give me the right item.

oh yes, he gave the second camera for free. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1913462. really? or you closed the thread because you got busted?

here is the picture that he sold me



now this is the second camera that he said he gave it away.



Now this is the one that he sent me.



Same scratch mark.

Guys ... get lost from here ... make you senseless war somewhere else

I do not care who is telling the true and who is not ...

Only thing for sure it is that the camera on the photo it is not the #11

Also Mr GavinXman ... don't send me PM with insults ... telling me that that I have no Life since I have 3k post on RCG.

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

Guys ... get lost from here ... make you senseless war somewhere else
...

I fully agree. If any more posts from these guys show up here, I will closed down the thread to further posts. It's pretty much served it's purpose anyway...

I apologize for this messed. just want to clear something. niway thanks guys.

Is it possible to run a #3, #11 or #16 without the PCB that has the charging monitor chips (that is normally mounted between the battery and the main board, IF I pay attention to charging times?

I have 2x#11's, 2x#16's and 2x#3 but somehow ages ago I lost the PCB from one the #11 when changing batteries, I can only think I got distracted and it went missing.

EG: Maybe if I only let it charge for 45mins via USB
Or use a REAL LIPO charger set to 1S and 1C at 100mA.



B!LL!

Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill

Is it possible to run a #3, #11 or #16 without the PCB that has the charging monitor chips (that is normally mounted between the battery and the main board, IF I pay attention to charging times?

I have 2x#11's, 2x#16's and 2x#3 but somehow ages ago I lost the PCB from one the #11 when changing batteries, I can only think I got distracted and it went missing.

EG: Maybe if I only let it charge for 45mins via USB
Or use a REAL LIPO charger set to 1S and 1C at 100mA.



B!LL!

Speaking for the #11, I don't think it would work if you use the special cable. The special cable relies on the battery protection IC, so most likely you would blow something if you use the cable. I would think the #16 is much safer, and as far the #3's are concerned, well, it's been ages since I played with them!

Sorry, I'm too scared to try this out.

Remember the protection IC also protects the battery from undercharging, so if you let the battery die I'm not sure what would happen. Most likely not much immediately.

To be on the safe side, I would never connect USB power and always charge the batteries with your dedicated charger. Of course you would lose the date and time if you do it this way.

You most likely expected a more precise answer. Sorry, I can't give you one.

Wouldn't it be easier to buy a few spare batteries and have the peace of mind that everything will work correctly?

Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill

Is it possible to run a #3, #11 or #16 without the PCB that has the charging monitor chips (that is normally mounted between the battery and the main board, IF I pay attention to charging times?

I have 2x#11's, 2x#16's and 2x#3 but somehow ages ago I lost the PCB from one the #11 when changing batteries, I can only think I got distracted and it went missing.

EG: Maybe if I only let it charge for 45mins via USB
Or use a REAL LIPO charger set to 1S and 1C at 100mA.



B!LL!

The batteries used in these cameras have a dedicated lipo charging IC ON the main circuit board, or at least the #16 cameras do (I forget if the #3 had one). That should normally safely charge the single lipo cell without any added protection. But I think you are referring to the small circuit board soldered to the battery tabs, which protects the battery from not only low and high voltage, but also excessive charge/discharge rates. All the camera batteries had that protection. About the only way for one of these to come off and get lost is to un-wrap the tape on the battery end with wires and cut or unsoldered that small circuit board from the cell. Any way, if you have a cell without that extra circuit board and also have one of these cells that is dead, you can unsolder the circuit board from that one and solder it to the good cell that has none. Just be careful to get the wire polarity the same when you solder it on.

You can also charge the cell with a dedicated external lipo charger as you stated, but that's basically what the charging IC on the main camera circuit board of the #16 already does.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Speaking for the #11, I don't think it would work if you use the special cable. The special cable relies on the battery protection IC, so most likely you would blow something if you use the cable. I would think the #16 is much safer, and as far the #3's are concerned, well, it's been ages since I played with them!

Sorry, I'm too scared to try this out.

Remember the protection IC also protects the battery from undercharging, so if you let the battery die I'm not sure what would happen. Most likely not much immediately.

To be on the safe side, I would never connect USB power and always charge the batteries with your dedicated charger. Of course you would lose the date and time if you do it this way.

You most likely expected a more precise answer. Sorry, I can't give you one.

Wouldn't it be easier to buy a few spare batteries and have the peace of mind that everything will work correctly?

Some pages ago a smart guy hacked is #11, removed the LiPo, use a 5v step up + 1 diode (5v-0.7diode = 4.3v ... just fine) ... and this was for power the #11 without battery and reuse the 1S LiPo from his quad ... the result was outstanding.

He did not report to have burn his #11 , but he did show us some nice videos ... anyhow ... it is something that I would suggest to do only for skilled guys.

Thanks for the suggestions/ideas/advice guys.
I gunna go ahead and wire the battery directly to main PCB
(When I get time, I'm one of those guys who have 5+ projects going at once)

I don't really care if I kill the camera as going buy 2 x Miobus Cameras anyway!
However I will let you know the results for everyone's future reference.

B!

Originally Posted by e_lm_70

Some pages ago a smart guy hacked is #11, removed the LiPo, use a 5v step up + 1 diode (5v-0.7diode = 4.3v ... just fine) ... and this was for power the #11 without battery and reuse the 1S LiPo from his quad ... the result was outstanding.

He did not report to have burn his #11 , but he did show us some nice videos ... anyhow ... it is something that I would suggest to do only for skilled guys.

Yes, this will obviously work without issues. He used a diode, so the LiPo is much better protected than a LiPo without any protection whatsoever. Anyway, this isn't the problem. The problem is with the original battery and the special cable. The battery would most likely be under 5V if there is no protection chip to limit the current/voltage. The voltage/current from the special cable does not go thru the regulating IC on the board but relies on the IC built into the battery - which the original poster had removed. This is the point I was trying to make.

As you may know, the special cable for the #11 is an appendix, a cludge if you want, and relies solely on the IC built into the battery.

Like I previously posted, as long as you don't connect any cables, there shouldn't be any problem aside from the battery discharging below it's limit. I did some power tests about two years ago by replacing the battery with a variable voltage/current regulator in order to evaluate the cut-off voltage and minimum current required. I posted this picture in the #16 thread. In the picture I was evaluating the USB values, but I did the same for the battery connection.

DONT CLOSE IT YET THERES ALMOST 10,000 POST ABOUT A $35 MINI CAM LMAO, everything you need to know is in the 1st post as its updated and Mr Chucks video that I posted the link to in my fs thread pretty much says it all BUT MOST DONT READ NOR WATCH . THANKS THATS THE LAST OF IT FROM ME