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Old Dec 05, 2012, 06:38 AM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
The Vimeo is still processing the video.. You can see this other video recorded with #11 version 2.

https://vimeo.com/46286418

Here, I had the same problem but smaller.

I do not think it a problem of battery, because the noise (a brighter area on the right) became visible after 2 minutes and it increases for +1 hour.
OK, After seeing that I agree it's not the low voltage breakdown, which results in a very jagged breakdown in the picture edge and is accompanied by an intermittent buzzing sound. The image breakdown and buzzing gets worse as the battery becomes more and more depleted.

I think the most plausible cause is mentioned in Isoprop's post, but this doesn't happen in bright light outdoors on a hot sunny day. Indoors in low light such as your example makes the CMOS imager work a lot harder, though, both in long electronic shutter times as well as boosted gain on the CMOS, both of which should generate more heat, I think. But why that would affect the right side of the CMOS more than the left is a bit of a mystery, unless it's because the DSP chip also generates a LOT of heat and it resides on that side of the circuit board and is contributing to the heat issue on the imager.
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 11:37 PM
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808 camera motion detection sensativity

I have been using the n616setup program by isoprop which is great.

I have the #16 camera with teh version 49 mov software..

There is a motion sensativity of hi or low which does not work..

anybody have an answer for this..

Thanks
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mcansea View Post
I have been using the n616setup program by isoprop which is great.

I have the #16 camera with teh version 49 mov software..

There is a motion sensativity of hi or low which does not work..

anybody have an answer for this..

Thanks
Well, first of all, you've got your threads confused This is the #11 thread. The only utilities I wrote for the #11 were for the accurate time setting, but that was a very long time ago!

Now back to your #16. Motion sensitivity was only introduced after v0.49, so you'll have to update your firmware to v0.53 if you need that functionality. As you have noticed, parameters that are not valid for the installed firmware version will always be disabled in the GUI.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 04:59 AM
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Hi, i am new here and want to ask if this version #11 supports motion detection and time lapse recording? Thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by massimopaolo28 View Post
Hi, i am new here and want to ask if this version #11 supports motion detection and time lapse recording? Thanks
Motion detection and time lapse are a conflicting pair, so you can't combine them.
Both motion detection and time lapse work separately.

The #11 only supports time lapse of 10, 20 or 60 seconds. If you want a wider range (from 0.5 sec. to 60 secs.) then the #16 is the better choice.
You also have more control over motion detection on the #16 (duration and sensitivity), but you also cannot combine the two, for obvious reasons.

If you don't already have a #11, I strongly suggest you take a look at the #16 thread. The #16 is by far the most versatile and supported camera in the 808 size.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Motion detection and time lapse are a conflicting pair, so you can't combine them.
Both motion detection and time lapse work separately.

The #11 only supports time lapse of 10, 20 or 60 seconds. If you want a wider range (from 0.5 sec. to 60 secs.) then the #16 is the better choice.
You also have more control over motion detection on the #16 (duration and sensitivity), but you also cannot combine the two, for obvious reasons.

If you don't already have a #11, I strongly suggest you take a look at the #16 thread. The #16 is by far the most versatile and supported camera in the 808 size.

Maybe you just misunderstood my question or maybe my english is not that good lol but i did not asked about the combination of both or recording both features at the same time. I just asked if it supports motion detection and time lapse. Anyway you already answered it. Thank you.
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by massimopaolo28 View Post
Maybe you just misunderstood my question or maybe my english is not that good lol but i did not asked about the combination of both or recording both features at the same time. I just asked if it supports motion detection and time lapse. Anyway you already answered it. Thank you.
No problem with you English, it was me who falsely read in-between the lines
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 07:00 PM
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so which keycam (#11 or #16) is better in terms of video quality like sharpness? i watched some youtube videos comparing #11 and #16 and most of them finds that #11 is better in video quality.
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by massimopaolo28 View Post
so which keycam (#11 or #16) is better in terms of video quality like sharpness? i watched some youtube videos comparing #11 and #16 and most of them finds that #11 is better in video quality.
Sharpness will depend how well the lens is focused at the factory. My guess is it's pot luck if your lens is 100% focused. You can focus the lens yourself but it's fiddly and you can easily crack the wires in the ribbon cable rendering the lens unit useless. I know the #16 developer has analyzed many, many, lenses for his camera and is always looking for alternatives. I don't think the #11 developer has done this, but I may be wrong.

I don't know which comparison videos you have found on youtube, because there must be hundreds, but it's almost impossible to do a true comparison because of the different lens' used and the different AOV which each lens type has. The #16 developer currently offers 3 different lens types, the #11 only has one.

If you are comparing video quality, then you may well be looking at older video material. The quality has always been almost identical, but there are definitely color and saturation differences between the two models. Since these can be individually configured, it makes a comparison all but impossible. For many months it's been possible to adjust the #16 color settings and lately it's also possible to adjust the #11 color settings. If you are comparing older video material, then the #16 used to show much more natural colors whereas the #11 used to have more saturated colors. Some people prefer the unnatural colors. Today's firmware allows you to adjust the colors, so these comparisons are no longer valid.

In a nutshell I would say both cameras are very similar and are fine for general-purpose use. If you dig deeper you'll find big differences which greatly affect the final results. I have been using and testing both models ever since they were introduced, and I prefer the #16 in all instances. I just find it the far better camera in terms of flexibility and simplicity, but that's my personal opinion.

I also like it how the #16 developer has all the good firmware ideas and is truly innovative. The #11 developer copies these ideas.
On the other hand, the #11 developer is innovative as far as hardware design is concerned. He designed the "smiley" #11 and I believe the latest #18 MD80 is also his design. Now it's high time to develop a Gumpack model which has a flat surface unlike the MD80. The MD80 is all but impossible to attach using the front side, but I'm diverting....
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Old Dec 18, 2012, 07:17 PM
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Before I got my #16 I bought an #11. I don't use it much now as quality is way behind the #16, But, I wondered if I could update the FW etc. Now, How do I identify if I have a genuine #11 before I try updating it? What do I look for? It works OK but I would hate to brick it.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
Before I got my #16 I bought an #11. I don't use it much now as quality is way behind the #16, But, I wondered if I could update the FW etc. Now, How do I identify if I have a genuine #11 before I try updating it? What do I look for? It works OK but I would hate to brick it.
There are lots of different versions of the #11
Some have a 5-pin mini USB socket, some have an 8-pin mini USB socket, some have a Hynix DRAM chip, others have a Samsung DRAM chip, some are marked #18 under the lens cable, some are marked with www.htinter.com....

The recorded file naming convention also differs...

Anyway, the #11 is compatible with the #18 so that makes things easier.
Also, the #18 has two LEDs, red and yellow.
Which leaves the final test: If the red LED turns on while charging but never turns on if the cable is disconnected, then you either have a #11 or a #18, which are identical as far as firmware goes.

But not quite
Some cameras have a different bootloader installed. If the old bootloader is installed, you won't be able to update to the latest firmware.

I have replied to a similar question on the #18 thread. However, I just googled for the loader I mentioned and it is no longer available. Well, that's tough. Maybe the developer has asked all the posters to remove the file, I don't know.
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Old Dec 19, 2012, 09:44 PM
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Thanks Isoprop. I will check those points.
Edit: It uses the same mini USB as my 16 v2 but it only has a yellow LED at all times. It takes avi. video. It works OK, just not as good as the #16.
If nothing else, I have a spare case. :-) (and mem card)
The box it came in is probably the best part.....
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
Thanks Isoprop. I will check those points.
Edit: It uses the same mini USB as my 16 v2 but it only has a yellow LED at all times. It takes avi. video. It works OK, just not as good as the #16.
If nothing else, I have a spare case. :-) (and mem card)
The box it came in is probably the best part.....
If it came in a box, then I don't think it is a #11, #18 or #16. I don't recall that these were ever sent in a box. BTW, I forgot the most important part - check that the processors is a Novatek, see picture below.


Your layout may be completely different, but the processor is the same in all of the above mentioned cameras. The picture above is from a V2 #11 with the 2 LEDs situated below the lens cut-out.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 02:48 AM
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My close up cam isn't as good as yours Isotrop. It looks like a junker. I emailed the fellow that sold me this and told him he was misrepresenting these cams. He claimed in his ads that it was a HD cam. Funny thing is he agreed with me and told me he was changing his supplier but he didn't offer a refund.
Cam.


Box
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Grantham Kid View Post
My close up cam isn't as good as yours Isotrop. It looks like a junker. I emailed the fellow that sold me this and told him he was misrepresenting these cams. He claimed in his ads that it was a HD cam. Funny thing is he agreed with me and told me he was changing his supplier but he didn't offer a refund.
Cam.


Box
.....
You should try and get your money back and/or report the seller to eBay.
The cam he sold you has absolutely no resemblance to the #11. It's most probably some cheap $9 camera.
The tell-tale is the 16 pins connecting the CMOS module. Not nearly enough for 720p!
Chuck Lohr's site may help you in finding out what junk you have been sold.

Note: If the camera was advertised as HD and not as a #11, then the ad was correct. HD is not HD, what you want is 720p.

[EDIT] Also the box clearly states 720x480, and even that is most probably inflated from the original resolution by software. Low-res at the best! [/EDIT]
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 05:26 PM
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Did a little flying this morning. Just a little square of velcro holding the #11 on the Easy Star's wing. I've done it before with similar results, haven't lost it yet!

Xmas Eve Easy Star FPV 2 of 3 - 808 HD #11 (12 min 24 sec)
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Does anyone have any bright ideas for a custom-made case replacement for a Jumbo 808, or where to pick up an original, empty case?

I've stepped on mine. Camera works fine, case looks like it partied too hard.

Seeing nice mods of normal 808's, but not of Jumbos. eBay stores that I could find do not seem to carry empty cases...
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveCB View Post
Does anyone have any bright ideas for a custom-made case replacement for a Jumbo 808, or where to pick up an original, empty case?

I've stepped on mine. Camera works fine, case looks like it partied too hard.

Seeing nice mods of normal 808's, but not of Jumbos. eBay stores that I could find do not seem to carry empty cases...
I would think your best bet would be to email the seller from whom you bought your camera. Failing that, you'll most probably have problems in locating a spare case. Maybe send him a picture so he knows what you're talking about, or post your picture here and send him a link.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:16 PM
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Does anyone elses camera not go into standby mode if you turn it on and don't hit the shutter button to record? I could have sworn it turned itself off in the past, but now it just stays on until i manually turn it off.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 08:52 AM
rc9
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. The picture above is from a V2 #11 with the 2 LEDs situated below the lens cut-out.[/QUOTE]

I´ve been asking for advice on the #18 tread but now when I came across this
pic........ maybye.... Isoprop you don´t happen to have a pic of the flipp side?

Does the #11 cam also have 2 led´s (red charg/yellow on)?

My Problem will remain seens I can´t load any firmware anyhowe, but at least I´ll know why if I can confirm it´s not #18 but an #11 v2 cam I´ve got
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by rc9 View Post


. The picture above is from a V2 #11 with the 2 LEDs situated below the lens cut-out.

I´ve been asking for advice on the #18 tread but now when I came across this
pic........ maybye.... Isoprop you don´t happen to have a pic of the flipp side?

Does the #11 cam also have 2 led´s (red charg/yellow on)?

My Problem will remain seens I can´t load any firmware anyhowe, but at least I´ll know why if I can confirm it´s not #18 but an #11 v2 cam I´ve got
The coil at the top left was broken by the previous owner but should look like the one next to the USB socket at the bottom right. This is how the board looked before I started stripping it....

It was originally sold as a #11, but I believe is identical to the #18. When (if) I manage to repair it, I'll know for sure. Among other things, the DRAM Hynix chip on the first picture is shorted. Since they are identical, both boards have 2 LEDs.

I believe the only difference between the #11 and #18 is in the bootloader, resp. the firmware.

Here's the reverse side.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 11:16 AM
rc9
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Thank you.
Now I´m 99.99999% shure it´s a #11 insted of the #18.
I would be very happy if someone´s got any info regarding bootloader or Firmware that might work whith this Brand new #11 V2 Cam. Please feel free to send a private massage if you like. I can´t belive they´ve locked it from making personal settings like correct date/time or lack of it
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:54 AM
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After getting nice little 90° USB plugs from China I have made a cable harness for my quadrocopter, including a UBEC module from Turingy for 5V supply. The #16 cam works now at my 5.8 GHz transmitter, but I got confronted with a further problem. My OSD module seems not to be able to synchronize with the cameras' video signal, so a further indication that there is still something wrong with the PAL signal timing. Any ideas?

Regards, Gerd
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Hi everyone, I am new to this site and want to post my 808 No 11 video but there seems to be no guidlines on how to do that, Please advise.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 12:18 PM
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Just upload your video to You-Tube then copy and Paste the URL address of where on You-Tube your video is into your post.
You might need to include {URL}You-Tube Address{/URL} - But use square [ ] brackets.
Hope some of that made sense.
-B!LL!
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 01:34 PM
Fidler & twidler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerdS View Post
After getting nice little 90° USB plugs from China I have made a cable harness for my quadrocopter, including a UBEC module from Turingy for 5V supply. The #16 cam works now at my 5.8 GHz transmitter, but I got confronted with a further problem. My OSD module seems not to be able to synchronize with the cameras' video signal, so a further indication that there is still something wrong with the PAL signal timing. Any ideas?

Regards, Gerd
ooo err nasty - I think you will need to find someone with an oscilloscope and then look at the video out signal, compared with a known good video source .....
Mike
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerdS View Post
After getting nice little 90° USB plugs from China I have made a cable harness for my quadrocopter, including a UBEC module from Turingy for 5V supply. The #16 cam works now at my 5.8 GHz transmitter, but I got confronted with a further problem. My OSD module seems not to be able to synchronize with the cameras' video signal, so a further indication that there is still something wrong with the PAL signal timing. Any ideas?

Regards, Gerd
May I ask you where you found the right angled 8-pin mini-USB plugs? All I have ever found is those clumsy 90° angled adapters, which is not what I want.

Or are you indeed referring to a #16 and not a #11? Gets confusing!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerdS View Post
After getting nice little 90° USB plugs from China I have made a cable harness for my quadrocopter, including a UBEC module from Turingy for 5V supply. The #16 cam works now at my 5.8 GHz transmitter, but I got confronted with a further problem. My OSD module seems not to be able to synchronize with the cameras' video signal, so a further indication that there is still something wrong with the PAL signal timing. Any ideas?

Regards, Gerd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
May I ask you where you found the right angled 8-pin mini-USB plugs? All I have ever found is those clumsy 90° angled adapters, which is not what I want.

Or are you indeed referring to a #16 and not a #11? Gets confusing!

Unless I missed something, the #11 doesn't have video out.

Gerd, I suspect you hadn't noticed that the #16 thread you posted in previously has closed and has consequently fallen off the first page of the Aerial Photography forum, so you accidentally posted to this, the #11 thread.

The #16 thread has now moved to a new location.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:20 AM
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Unless I missed something, the #11 doesn't have video out.

.....
It is my belief that the only difference is the #11 is not supplied with a video-out cable. But I could be wrong. Others have reported they cannot use the configuration FW with the #11, although I can't understand this. I have updated my old 5-pin USB original #11s with the latest bootloader and firmware, and they work - obviously without video-out.

The #11 seller asked that the bootloader is not made available, so this could also have something to do with the mystery.

Many people keep asking about the difference, but there is no clear answer. I just wish the developer would communicate what the difference is, if any.

If (big IF) I manage to get my burnt 8-pin USB #11 working I'll know more and post here.

If the only difference is the cable, then there's no reason in keeping the #11 naming convention except for marketing purposes. It's just confusing.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Thanks Isoprop, my two #11s are the old 5 pin version, so no go for me.

Sorry to say I haven't kept fully abreast of this thread and any developments with this camera, once the #16 came out.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:38 PM
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Hi
Has anyone tried to fit the #16 120 degrees lens on the #11 ?
Thanks
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 02:05 PM
Just thumbing through...
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Originally Posted by Miniwintz View Post
Hi
Has anyone tried to fit the #16 120 degrees lens on the #11 ?
Thanks
It works fine. I prefer the HK wing lens, and that's what I have in now. Be careful not to get dirt inside or tear the ribbon cable.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 05:47 PM
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Thank you! The thing is, the #16 lens can be purchased separately for $10, I don't know if it is the case for the HK's
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 06:20 PM
Just thumbing through...
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Right, anyway the D lens is ok. I got water in mine, so watch that. Also the IR filter is in the back of the lens, it is not glued very well. Good luck!
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Old Jan 14, 2013, 03:09 PM
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Thanks! For now, I'm using the popular "magnetic" Fish-eye lens, securely stuck with some epoxy. I'll change it for the #16 D lens if it falls off
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 12:17 PM
It only cost £50 honest!
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sd card

think I may have killed my 4gb card. Forgot and tried to format it with windows xp. now although it appears in the list, whenever I try to acces it it locks up. tried formating on my mac same thing. tried sd formatter that locks up also. running h2testw but that doesnt seem to be doing anything either. is it dead or can I get it working?
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 12:22 PM
Just thumbing through...
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Try formatting in a camera, such as Canon, etc. I saved one this way.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 02:17 PM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by David Parry View Post
think I may have killed my 4gb card. Forgot and tried to format it with windows xp. now although it appears in the list, whenever I try to acces it it locks up. tried formating on my mac same thing. tried sd formatter that locks up also. running h2testw but that doesnt seem to be doing anything either. is it dead or can I get it working?
Is it a newer Sandisk card by any chance. They are subject to being put in a write protected state for which there is no recovery. But Sandisk will give a free warranty replacement. I've had two like this so far.

FWIW, I always format the card I'm using in the #16 with the camera's own formatting routine.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 04:05 PM
It only cost £50 honest!
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think you may be right Tom, tried every device that will take a SD card in the house, and sometimes get a message that the card is locked. It is a sandisk one, about 3 or 4 yars old. Will contact sandisk and see what they say, but probably best to just get a new one. dont have a number 16 (yet) just a 3 and 11 so cant try formating in the camera.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 04:23 PM
It only cost £50 honest!
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changing the subject Tom just made the battery box you detailed, thanks for that. what do you use to charge the batteries insitu?
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 07:53 PM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by David Parry View Post
changing the subject Tom just made the battery box you detailed, thanks for that. what do you use to charge the batteries insitu?
I use my all-purpose RC battery charger which can charge most all battery chemistries. I made the battery cable short with a small gendered plug (micro Dean's plug if you are familiar with those). The I have two extensions that connect to that plug. One is an old USB cable with flakey data wires, but good power wires for powering the camera, and the other terminates in a full size Dean's plug to mate with my charger cable. The micro Dean's plug can easily handle the AAA cell 1C (800 mA) battery charging current.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 05:55 AM
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Apologies if already posted, but I tried searching and couldn't find the answer!

Has anyone measured the current draw when recording?

Thanks in advance
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 09:39 AM
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Apologies if already posted, but I tried searching and couldn't find the answer!

Has anyone measured the current draw when recording?

Thanks in advance
Since the #11 uses the same processor as the #16 I would assume the current draw to be the same as the #16 which is between 220mA and 300mA. That is with video-out disabled. Current draw while charging will most likely be different than the #16 since the cameras use different charging ICs.

The above figures are based on a #16 post I wrote here which I originally posted at the beginning of January 2012.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 10:59 AM
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Thanks Isoprop.

I'm looking at running one from a 5V booster/regulator to eliminate the weight of the internal cell, but the small/light ones are commonly limited to 200 mA. I didn't think that would be enough.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:22 PM
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Thanks Isoprop.

I'm looking at running one from a 5V booster/regulator to eliminate the weight of the internal cell, but the small/light ones are commonly limited to 200 mA. I didn't think that would be enough.
AnyVolt?
Half an amp Mike
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Thanks, will have a look at that.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Thanks Isoprop.

I'm looking at running one from a 5V booster/regulator to eliminate the weight of the internal cell, but the small/light ones are commonly limited to 200 mA. I didn't think that would be enough.
A regulator and the internal cell, have a similar weight ...

Either you use directly 5V bec from your radios gear ... or if you run on 1S .. you can get directly the power ... as well .. if you use a lipo 2S or more ... you can take 1S Lipo from the Balancer connector.

So ... no need for any extra HW on my view

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Old Jan 22, 2013, 09:13 AM
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Only problem with tapping into the balance connector (which I have done also), is that if voltage drops below 3.6 v, the camera will quit and the video file may be lost. That can happen even when the battery is still half charged due to a sudden load as in acceleration.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
A regulator and the internal cell, have a similar weight ...

Either you use directly 5V bec from your radios gear ... or if you run on 1S .. you can get directly the power ... as well .. if you use a lipo 2S or more ... you can take 1S Lipo from the Balancer connector.
Currently looking at this 5V boost regulator for 1.5 grams:

http://www.active-robots.com/bodhila...or-square.html

Think that's significantly lighter than the internal LiPo.

This is for a micro quad flying on 1S. I have already tried running it from the flight cell but the camera shuts down after about 90 secs due to the voltage drop under load. A boost regulator will stop that.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Currently looking at this 5V boost regulator for 1.5 grams:

http://www.active-robots.com/bodhila...or-square.html

Think that's significantly lighter than the internal LiPo.

This is for a micro quad flying on 1S. I have already tried running it from the flight cell but the camera shuts down after about 90 secs due to the voltage drop under load. A boost regulator will stop that.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7565

This or similar (70mAh or 80mAh) .. look better match

I guess you run your #11 naked

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Old Jan 22, 2013, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7565

This or similar (70mAh or 80mAh) .. look better match

I guess you run your #11 naked

Even a 50 mAh cell is a bit heavier than a booster, and it would need to be charged (or swapped) before every flight ... which is not very convenient.

Yes, I'm using the #11 stripped-down ... this was when I was running it straight from the flight cell:



The quad did handle the weight of the camera's internal battery OK, but I had to replace the motors and with the new ones (which are official spare parts) it really struggles. Hence I need to lose some weight
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 03:53 AM
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Even a 50 mAh cell is a bit heavier than a booster, and it would need to be charged (or swapped) before every flight ... which is not very convenient.

Yes, I'm using the #11 stripped-down ... this was when I was running it straight from the flight cell:



The quad did handle the weight of the camera's internal battery OK, but I had to replace the motors and with the new ones (which are official spare parts) it really struggles. Hence I need to lose some weight
I put my #11 without no modification on my SH 6043 ... and it fly fine ... but just for the time that the battery is strong enough (more or less 90 seconds)

Personally, I will go for an additional 50mAh battery, this will allow longer fly time, since the #11 is reported to consume 200mAh + the waste of the booster ... you are taking away quite some power to the micro quad ...

So ... stripped + 50mAh battery (even a 80mAh since 50mAh is not on stock) ... sound a better approach

Charge the battery ... is simple .. you can let the #11 charge the battery for your, via the USB connector .. or you connect to the charger of the microquad ...

Anyhow ... in my case ... I order a Sh 6047 with 6 motors ... that should be able to handle more load

I was looking this quad as you have, since has very good review ... but ... I decide to skip it ... the SH 6043 fly good enough for my taste

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Old Jan 23, 2013, 08:10 AM
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Quad pulls approx 2400 mA so camera's power consumption will only shorten the flight time a little. I have 7 flight packs for the quad so having to wait for anything to charge would be a nuisance.

I have a much bigger quad and a bigger still hexa that would not notice an 808, but I wouldn't be popular if I flew them in the house
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:53 AM
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So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).
quite a find, thanks to both of you for sharing.
Mike
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:21 AM
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I'm puzzled about where the 5v will be used.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
So this is what I actually ordered for my #11 ... 0.4 grams, will supply up to 1A, around 90% efficiency with 1S input and 5V / 300 mA output:

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/2119/pictures

Thanks to user bangkomit for posting it (in the X4 quad thread).
That little device looks neat. It could also be useful to regulate voltage, both down and up, to power the camera from an external 4 cell NiMH pack.

But being a switching regulator, I wonder if it will have an RF noise issue with FPV video transmission? Might need to add a choke which would add some weight? Please post how this works for you.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:51 AM
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I'm puzzled about where the 5v will be used.
To power the camera via the mini USB plug.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:55 AM
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To power the camera via the mini USB plug.
Will that work without the internal battery?
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 05:35 PM
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To power the camera via the mini USB plug.
Actually I will connect it direct to the PCB (where the battery leads go as standard). I did this before and it worked fine apart from the camera shutting down when the flight pack voltage dropped under load. Had a micro JST plug/socket in the flyead so I could remove the camera from the quad.

Obviously the clock gets reset every time I change flight pack, but I have the timestamp off so it's no big deal.

I did consider RF noise as a potential issue ... both for the #11 and for the quad. I will have to try it and see. Not worried about FPV interference though ... no AV out on #11 (mine, anyway)!
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:24 PM
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As I understand, that was from the flight battery, 4.2v max. Now it will be 5v plus or minus the tolerance of the regulator. I would personally add a diode in series to drop it a bit.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 01:43 AM
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Actually I will connect it direct to the PCB (where the battery leads go as standard). I did this before and it worked fine apart from the camera shutting down when the flight pack voltage dropped under load. Had a micro JST plug/socket in the flyead so I could remove the camera from the quad.

Obviously the clock gets reset every time I change flight pack, but I have the timestamp off so it's no big deal.

I did consider RF noise as a potential issue ... both for the #11 and for the quad. I will have to try it and see. Not worried about FPV interference though ... no AV out on #11 (mine, anyway)!
I wouldn't advise this method. The board was not designed for a 5V input to the battery terminals. I have a #11 where too much voltage was applied and it blew the DRAM. You may be lucky in the short term but you will certainly be over stressing the components. Put a diode in series like victapilot suggested and you'll be on the safe side.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 07:48 AM
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I wouldn't advise this method. The board was not designed for a 5V input to the battery terminals.
Surely when connected to USB approx. 5V is applied (via the board) to the battery terminals, in order to charge it?
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 08:05 AM
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Surely when connected to USB approx. 5V is applied (via the board) to the battery terminals, in order to charge it?
No. The USB connection goes thru a charging IC on the board.
I don't know what happens when 5V is applied to the "special" USB connection (record and charge), most probably thru resistors or a regulator. The battery circuitry is certainly not built for 5V. I haven't traced the "special" connection.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 12:38 PM
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I agree with Isoprop. The first thing I would do is check the voltage from the regulator. Some time ago, I checked a lot of USB chargers which are nominally 5v, and found all on the high side, around 5.25v. One was 5.5v.

But maybe 5v will work for you, pls let us know.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
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No. The USB connection goes thru a charging IC on the board.
I don't know what happens when 5V is applied to the "special" USB connection (record and charge), most probably thru resistors or a regulator. The battery circuitry is certainly not built for 5V. I haven't traced the "special" connection.
I believe the small protection circuit board that comes on each battery typically has over-voltage protection as well as a LVC to protect cell, but I wouldn't want to rely on it! And as you mentioned, that bypasses the desired CC-CV charge cycle provided by the IC on the camera circuit board. I'd be concerned most with the 5V stressing the rest of the camera circuit board components.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 07:31 AM
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OK thanks guys - I may look at patching the 5V supply into the USB connection. Although I'd prefer not to kill it the camera is 'disposable' really. I have this one and another #11 that I never use any more (since I got a pair of #16s).
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 10:36 AM
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OK thanks guys - I may look at patching the 5V supply into the USB connection. Although I'd prefer not to kill it the camera is 'disposable' really. I have this one and another #11 that I never use any more (since I got a pair of #16s).
The USB is designed for 5V, so is a much better solution. As you most probably know, the #16 works with USB 5V without the internal battery connected
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 01:53 PM
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808 11 HD KeyChain not working

Hi to all,

I have problem with my camera 808-11-HD-Lens-DVR-Car-Keychain..., it`s only red LED working and nothing else.

So, the cause for not working is the fact that the CAM was accidently forgotten in the pocket in one of my clothes and put into the washing machine... After being washed i took out of housing the PCB and dry it, and after that the CAM worked normaly. But not for long, after 3-4 days it has stop working, only red LED "on" when on USB...

Status:

- only red LED on when on USB(battery Charging status, when battery full - LED "off")
- when on USB, the device or SD storage not recognized by PC, nothing happens
- LiPo is normaly charging when conected on USB
- voltage seems normal on PCB, on USB(4.88V), uSD (3.30V), IC`s (1.8-3.30V)

History on what had been done so far:

- all kind of combinations for "start-up", "ON"..., "reset then ON",... etc
- uploaded firmware FW96630A.bin (bought new same camera and uploaded same firmware, and CAM is working normaly)
- bought "WINBOND W25Q16BVSSIG" eeprom and replace it with the procedure described on http://g--labs.blogspot.com/ site

I don`t have any idea anymore what else to try, so i kindly ask you to give some hint or solution, or maybe similar expirience because the CAM still not working...

Best regards,

Matic
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:45 PM
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I have a 808 car key micro camera #16. I don't know how to access the configuration tool that the manual says it should have. I don't know how to adjust the correct time and date as well as the volume setting. I would appreciate any help in order to be able to fix my camera settings. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 03:22 PM
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The #16 thread - read the first post, and faq that follow Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricardopr54 View Post
I have a 808 car key micro camera #16. I don't know how to access the configuration tool that the manual says it should have. I don't know how to adjust the correct time and date as well as the volume setting. I would appreciate any help in order to be able to fix my camera settings. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Disregard my last post. I already figured out how to fix my camera. Everything is now working normal. Thanks.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:18 PM
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Thanks. I already figured out how to download the configuration tool application for this camera.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citam View Post
Hi to all,

I have problem with my camera 808-11-HD-Lens-DVR-Car-Keychain..., it`s only red LED working and nothing else.

So, the cause for not working is the fact that the CAM was accidently forgotten in the pocket in one of my clothes and put into the washing machine... After being washed i took out of housing the PCB and dry it, and after that the CAM worked normaly. But not for long, after 3-4 days it has stop working, only red LED "on" when on USB...

Status:

- only red LED on when on USB(battery Charging status, when battery full - LED "off")
- when on USB, the device or SD storage not recognized by PC, nothing happens
- LiPo is normaly charging when conected on USB
- voltage seems normal on PCB, on USB(4.88V), uSD (3.30V), IC`s (1.8-3.30V)

History on what had been done so far:

- all kind of combinations for "start-up", "ON"..., "reset then ON",... etc
- uploaded firmware FW96630A.bin (bought new same camera and uploaded same firmware, and CAM is working normaly)
- bought "WINBOND W25Q16BVSSIG" eeprom and replace it with the procedure described on http://g--labs.blogspot.com/ site

I don`t have any idea anymore what else to try, so i kindly ask you to give some hint or solution, or maybe similar expirience because the CAM still not working...

Best regards,

Matic
I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 04:48 AM
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I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.
RS232 solder points ... ???

Do you have a picture of these points ... I would be curious to see what it show on serial port

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Old Jan 28, 2013, 05:22 AM
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RS232 solder points ... ???

Do you have a picture of these points ... I would be curious to see what it show on serial port

Like I said, I haven't tried this on the new design. On the original #11 the points were situated at the edge of the board next to the processor. On the new design there are three points, instead of four, next to the processor. These look suspicious and could well be TX, RX and GND. If you have a TTL to RS232 converter you could try hooking up the TX (I'm sure it's one of them) and a ground point.
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Last edited by Isoprop; Jan 28, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I suspect some other component was not properly dried and has now shorted. I take it you programmed the SPI before replacing it? Dumb question, but just to be certain. I don't know your soldering skills, but I also take it you replaced the SPI in the correct orientation and didn't overheat it if using a hot air soldering station?

If the firmware was running, even partially, you should get some indication of life. The red LED is controlled by the charger IC so has nothing to do with the rest of the circuit. At least it shows that the charging IC is working.
What happens without the lens ribbon cable connected? Still nothing?
When you connect the camera to the PC, does it get briefly recognized. It should, even if all the circuitry isn't working properly.

So long the yellow LED doesn't even blink, I suspect a hardware failure or corrupted firmware (in the SPI). You can measure most of the resistor and capacitor values on the board, but a few you will have to desolder to check. You can also check the transistors for short circuits. And are you sure you programmed the SPI with a valid dump?

I haven't tried it, but there are also three RS232 solder points on the board. The TX might give you additional information, but only if the firmware is running.

There is also a slight possibility that the CMOS module/cable is defective. If you have a spare module it would be easy to check.
Isoprop, thanks for reply. I did the procedure of replacement as described on the site given above. Desolder with pro. solder station and accessories necessary for that kind of job. By the way i have daily work with the PCB`s on my job, and a lot of manual solder/desolder needed. So i think that kind of work was properly done, but never know - we`re only human, so mistakes allways possible . Regarding valid dump - it`s a great chance that the dump is not right one, tomorow when i go to work if there will be some free time i will use company profesional equipment and do some measurements... also remove ribbon cable and give it a try, and when pluged into USB there is no even so small indication of any activity, no blink of a LED, no PC status of a new device,... nothing at all. So tomorow if any free time, new measurements, for now i will paste some images of a module and those 4 pads for RX-TX levels...









Best Regards,

Matic
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:03 AM
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Here is my latest video from my #11

Now that I did find a good vibration free platform ... I think it is still quite good the #11 for his job.

Aerial Video - HobbyKing Quadcopter Frame V1 + KK2.0 + KeyCam #11 (0 min 0 sec)


As camera for feed my Video TX I'm using this ... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mp_420TVL.html ... it is as heavy as an AV cable from #18 to a video TX ... so ... not a big change

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 03:30 AM
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Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by citam View Post
Isoprop, thanks for reply. I did the procedure of replacement as described on the site given above. Desolder with pro. solder station and accessories necessary for that kind of job. By the way i have daily work with the PCB`s on my job, and a lot of manual solder/desolder needed. So i think that kind of work was properly done, but never know - we`re only human, so mistakes allways possible . Regarding valid dump - it`s a great chance that the dump is not right one, tomorow when i go to work if there will be some free time i will use company profesional equipment and do some measurements... also remove ribbon cable and give it a try, and when pluged into USB there is no even so small indication of any activity, no blink of a LED, no PC status of a new device,... nothing at all. So tomorow if any free time, new measurements, for now i will paste some images of a module and those 4 pads for RX-TX levels...

.....
NOTE to others: This is about the original #11 with the soldered lens module.

Unfortunately I can't remember what happens when the ribbon cable is removed, but I remember I had a terrible struggle to remove the cable from one of my cameras since the cable was additionally glued to the board! Most of the problems with the early #11s was due to a defective ribbon cable / contact, but your problem is different in that your camera suddenly stopped working after the water damage.

If you want, you can send me your dump and I'll try and verify if it's valid. You can also do this yourself if you have the different firmware versions and bootloaders. As you may be aware, the firmware is appended to the bootloader in the SPI dump.

I doubt very much that you will be able to source a spare lens module, and I doubt that an adapter for the new lens modules exists - if it did, that would be more than cool!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by gertjan View Post
Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!
There is no circuit diagram for the #11. I'm afraid I don't know to where the CLK pin is connected so you'll most likely have to trace it yourself. If it's directly or indirectly connected to the processor or DRAM you'll have to remove the chips first and then reball them before reassembly - all but impossible without professional equipment. Maybe someone else has already traced the board, but I'm not aware of it and there is no information in this thread.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gertjan View Post
Hello!

Im trying to repair my version 1 #11 camera.
Does someone know where pin6 from U10 is connected??
It's the clk-pin from the flashRom.

Maybe someone knows or has electrical diagrams from the #11 camera?!?!
Clk signals often denote SPI bus clock, and if so will originate from the possessor, allowing it to read(& maybe write) the flash.
End of my knowledge, except I would assume that it originates from underneath the processor chip
Mike
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:40 AM
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This one is onboard a Multiplex Easyglider, with footage edited to include only portions of the flight with the motor off (except from take-off).

Christmas 2012, aerial video of Paralio Astros, Greece (3 min 38 sec)
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Old Feb 25, 2013, 05:03 PM
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So ... I finally got around to playing with this step up/down voltage regulator:

http://www.robotshop.com/eu/step-up-...or-s7v7f5.html

The aim was to provide a constant voltage for the camera from the flight cell of a micro quad, so I could lose the #11's internal battery.

Having removed the battery the first test was to try powering up the camera from pins 4 & 5 of the USB socket (per the 'special' cable). No luck, couldn't get the camera to come on

OK so the 5V output from the regulator is a bit high to push into the battery connections on the board, but what the heck. Success ... nothing caught fire, did a 10 minute (approx.) recording without any issues. Camera processor chip was warm but no more than usual as far as I could tell. No sign of interference/noise from the regulator on the video.

So I've got the regulator mounted on the camera board now with thin double-sided foam tape, and a flylead (with a micro plug/socket joint) running out to connect to the quad. Weight of the camera in this form is 7.1 grams.

Need to arrange some packing/padding to give a flat surface to the camera so it can be mounted level (probably thin EPP or Depron sheet carved away to clear the USB socket, micro SD holder, etc.), and secure the lens module. Plus a little clear tape for insulation. Then it'll be time to give it a try in flight
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
So ... I finally got around to playing with this step up/down voltage regulator:

http://www.robotshop.com/eu/step-up-...or-s7v7f5.html

The aim was to provide a constant voltage for the camera from the flight cell of a micro quad, so I could lose the #11's internal battery.

Having removed the battery the first test was to try powering up the camera from pins 4 & 5 of the USB socket (per the 'special' cable). No luck, couldn't get the camera to come on

OK so the 5V output from the regulator is a bit high to push into the battery connections on the board, but what the heck. Success ... nothing caught fire, did a 10 minute (approx.) recording without any issues. Camera processor chip was warm but no more than usual as far as I could tell. No sign of interference/noise from the regulator on the video.

So I've got the regulator mounted on the camera board now with thin double-sided foam tape, and a flylead (with a micro plug/socket joint) running out to connect to the quad. Weight of the camera in this form is 7.1 grams.

Need to arrange some packing/padding to give a flat surface to the camera so it can be mounted level (probably thin EPP or Depron sheet carved away to clear the USB socket, micro SD holder, etc.), and secure the lens module. Plus a little clear tape for insulation. Then it'll be time to give it a try in flight
As you have found out, unlike the #16, you can't use USB power without the internal battery connected. However, you should beware of using 5V applied directly to the battery. It will work, but the question is for how long. You are definitely stressing the components. Maybe you should consider putting a small diode in series with the positive lead. This will reduce the voltage to a safer level and as a side effect you will benefit from reverse voltage protection.

I received a #11 from a user which had been very badly damaged by supplying over voltage. Even the DRAM chip was destroyed.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
As you have found out, unlike the #16, you can't use USB power without the internal battery connected. However, you should beware of using 5V applied directly to the battery. It will work, but the question is for how long. You are definitely stressing the components. Maybe you should consider putting a small diode in series with the positive lead. This will reduce the voltage to a safer level and as a side effect you will benefit from reverse voltage protection.

I received a #11 from a user which had been very badly damaged by supplying over voltage. Even the DRAM chip was destroyed.
I don't have any diodes lying around but I do have some small resistors and was thinking about experimenting with them? Reverse polarity protection isn't an issue as I'm using a polarised plug/socket in the flylead.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 03:39 AM
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Aha ... looks like there should be a diode I can 'recycle' on the PCB inside the car charger (which I am never going to use)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093

Edit - adding that diode drops the voltage at the battery pads from 5.1V to 4.6V when the camera is recording, which will definitely help. I'm only going to be making short recordings ... 5-6 mins at most ... so that will probably do. I put the diode in the -ve lead as there was more room ... presumably doesn't make any difference (so long as it's the right way round ) ?
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Last edited by Bill Glover; Feb 26, 2013 at 04:44 AM.
Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:45 AM
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Joined Dec 1999
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It'll be interesting to see how you get along with an 11 on the micro quad. This is exactly what I was hoping to do. Thank you for blazing the path!
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 04:55 AM
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No problem

Although of course I don't want to trash it, my #11 is to some extent 'disposable' as I have a pair of #16s too. So I'm happy to experiment (with reasonable care).
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Aha ... looks like there should be a diode I can 'recycle' on the PCB inside the car charger (which I am never going to use)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093

Edit - adding that diode drops the voltage at the battery pads from 5.1V to 4.6V when the camera is recording, which will definitely help. I'm only going to be making short recordings ... 5-6 mins at most ... so that will probably do. I put the diode in the -ve lead as there was more room ... presumably doesn't make any difference (so long as it's the right way round ) ?
Find a second one and it'll be perfect! 4.6V is certainly much safer than 5.1V, so most probably you'll be OK. Playing with resistors wouldn't be such a good idea since they'd have to be in parallel and you would loose more power in the way of heat. I'm glad you found a spare diode, much safer that way. Putting it in the negative lead doesn't matter here.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 11:30 AM
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Well ... all done, pretty successful

Regulator mounted in place of the battery (with diode )



EPP to give a flat mounting surface



Taped to the landing gear, ready to fit to the quad



Flylead attached to the quad



All done







A quick test flight

X4 with keyfob (3 min 7 sec)


Got over 4 minutes of in-flight video using packs that had been standing idle for a couple of months. Must time a flight with the camera off, to compare. IIRC the bare quad gave about 9 mins.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Well ... all done, pretty successful
...
Got over 4 minutes of in-flight video using packs that had been standing idle for a couple of months. Must time a flight with the camera off, to compare. IIRC the bare quad gave about 9 mins.
Was the quad pretty much on it's last legs as far as staying airborne? If so, that small voltage regulating board works well in boosting the camera voltage to keep it working throughout the flight.
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 01:05 PM
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Yes I flew the quad to the low voltage warning - and the camera was still running after landing
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Old Feb 26, 2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Yes I flew the quad to the low voltage warning - and the camera was still running after landing
very stable video ... good job

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Old Feb 27, 2013, 06:01 AM
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Nice job!

Thanks for sharing.
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 06:09 AM
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Thanks guys. I could probably do a bit better in good light, with calmer conditions outside, and more attention to trimming! But I was pretty happy as a first test
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 11:29 AM
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Nice job BILL, I might do a similar thing with one my of old #11's or even long un-used #4's.
Yes the video was very stable.

About the flight, you seemed to be hunting around the house for entity's to bug, first your wife, I'm amazed at how 'unfazed' she was (she must be used to you almost giving her a haircut with that thing!), then the dogs, I was waiting the cat next or the kids.
Then outside in search of parked cars (you have a few!) then for birds on the roof? - But really that was a fun tour of your place.

What type of Micro Beetle/LadyBird etc quad was that?

B!LL!
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 01:17 PM
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That's a Hubsan X4 - excellent little quad, I would highly recommend it! I had two #11s gathering dust ... hadn't used either since the #16 came out. Sold one (somebody here PM'd and asked if he could have it), and stripped the other down for the X4.

The kids get buzzed fairly regularly ... I recently used my son (5 years old) to demonstrate how tight the original Vapor will turn

Vapor turning (1 min 27 sec)


Sort of back on topic, a friend tried to fly his Vapor with a stripped down 808 (I think it was a #11) but it couldn't climb above a couple of inches off the floor
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 04:41 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
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LOL- You are EVIL!!

(PS: Watch out, the AMA or some other PC mob be after you for having no safely goggles on the kid!)
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 10:08 AM
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United Kingdom, London
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Wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover View Post
Well ... all done, pretty successful

Regulator mounted in place of the battery (with diode )


Bill, would you mind clarifying something for me? It appears from this picture that you have used the earth on the voltage regulator as a an intermediate joint for your neutral back to the power/quad. Is this correct?

Also, it looks like you have your diode on the neutral. I was going to put mine after the voltage regulator before it attaches to the live pole of the board. Am I missing something here?

I am about to try this mod (once some parts arrive) and it would be great if you could clarify this. I am a complete novice at this so apologies if this should be obvious.

Many thanks in advance.

Jack
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