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Old Oct 08, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
........your camera will be bricked! Just a friendly warning.....
I'm not interested.....but, it seems to me since they're going to probably brick their camera anyway wouldn't be better to go ahead and buy a new #18 FIRST. That way, when their # 11 gets toasted they'll still have a camera to do video. Maybe take a vid of the correct procedure to turn your #11 into a $40 paperweight

Yabba
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:49 PM
Crashomatic
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Actually, Im pretty sure i meant to type usb connector, but somehow, i typed chip


The previous post mentioning changing the firmware names.. is a post I made, if you double check

My #11 is running the latest #18 firmware. it's not bricked.

so, you're saying theres no accessible pin for vout from the chip. that's too bad
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
I'm not interested.....but, it seems to me since they're going to probably brick their camera anyway wouldn't be better to go ahead and buy a new #18 FIRST. That way, when their # 11 gets toasted they'll still have a camera to do video. Maybe take a vid of the correct procedure to turn your #11 into a $40 paperweight

Yabba
Hi Yabba!

Saw you pop up here, also on the Polaris thread, (my next plane)

I'm still flying a few estarters, like here. Took a while to get the cg ok. This is #11 with wa lens. I might change to #18 firmware with namechanged #18 firmware, but not soon. Might have better color stability.

e-Week e-Starter @ TT (2 min 23 sec)
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 05:19 PM
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note that i changed the fw with a v1 #11, and uhm, of course, switching fw is at your own risk. (just in case)
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
note that i changed the fw with a v1 #11, and uhm, of course, switching fw is at your own risk. (just in case)
my 3 v1 #11s are now using the #18 configurable firmware. The image quality is similar to #18, much better than before and without the AWB issue.
Now testing the configurations, but so far, everything is working, even the motion detection. the process is very simple, just rename the #18 firmware to FW96630A.BIN and load it. is reversible too, just load the #11 original firmware and it's back. The camera always look for a file named FW96630A.BIN.
The only problem I find in my tests is: when record til the end of battery charge, the last file is corrupted, but I don't know if this occur with the #18 with the new firmware too. To me looks like the camera keeps running with the voltage too low. Lot of artifacts in the last minutes of video.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Mine are v1.

Does the firmware auto load or is it necessary to hold down the front button like #16? OK, I see the instructions packaged with the v2 #11 firmware state that it auto-loads.

Thanks!
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Last edited by victapilot; Oct 08, 2012 at 07:27 PM. Reason: I read the instructions hehe
Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:43 PM
Crashomatic
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the fw auto load indeed
don't forget to use the config tool to configure the #18 fw when it's running
to me the #11 (v1 at least) looks just like my #18, except i can't get the video/audio out so far ;p

that being said the out of the #18 isn't so good either, the image is a lot better with a separate camera. as a standalone cam converted to #18 its pretty good.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
...
Does the firmware auto load or is it necessary to hold down the front button like #16?
...
The #16 FW auto loads! You must be thinking of loading in a config file manually to change camera settings, which does require holding down the shutter button. But with the latest FW (v0.41) and it's companion Windows GUI program, it only takes a mouse click to load in new FW once the camera is connected as a removeable drive. No more messing with config files or button presses is needed for loading FW or changing camera settings. It's all handled via the GUI via direct communication with the camera via the USB data port.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
the fw auto load indeed
don't forget to use the config tool to configure the #18 fw when it's running
to me the #11 (v1 at least) looks just like my #18, except i can't get the video/audio out so far ;p

that being said the out of the #18 isn't so good either, the image is a lot better with a separate camera. as a standalone cam converted to #18 its pretty good.
What means v1?

I have a #11 that is over 1 year old ... will be taking #18 firmware?
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:14 PM
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There are pictures at the start of this thread, but if you have the old style USB connector, it is probably v1.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
There are pictures at the start of this thread, but if you have the old style USB connector, it is probably v1.
All pictures on first page are looking with the same standard microUSB plug

My battery is not connected as any pictures there ... is has 1 cable on one side of pcb and one on the other side ....
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
All pictures on first page are looking with the same standard microUSB plug

My battery is not connected as any pictures there ... is has 1 cable on one side of pcb and one on the other side ....
That wiring scheme was used on some v1 cameras. It is not recommended that v1 models be flashed with v2 FW.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
All pictures on first page are looking with the same standard microUSB plug

My battery is not connected as any pictures there ... is has 1 cable on one side of pcb and one on the other side ....
This maybe the key indicator "The latest camera versions (v2) appear to have a different CMOS sensor based on the different ribbon cable trace pattern and a number (C971P) printed on it, but this has not been confirmed"

This note on the page for V2 firmware "WARNING! This firmware is ONLY usable with the new version 2 #11, easily recognized by its smaller, non-standard 8-pin miniUSB plug. Do NOT attempt to install this in the original #11 cameras! "

Has anybody flashed the #18 firmware on a cam with a C971P sensor cable?
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 03:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
This maybe the key indicator "The latest camera versions (v2) appear to have a different CMOS sensor based on the different ribbon cable trace pattern and a number (C971P) printed on it, but this has not been confirmed"

This note on the page for V2 firmware "WARNING! This firmware is ONLY usable with the new version 2 #11, easily recognized by its smaller, non-standard 8-pin miniUSB plug. Do NOT attempt to install this in the original #11 cameras! "

Has anybody flashed the #18 firmware on a cam with a C971P sensor cable?
So ... only difference between V1 and V2 is the C971P sensor ?

Mine has a C971P FCT sign on the cable ... but has the red battery line that go on the other side of the board ... so .. what it is ?

In the picture of the V1, it is not visible the sign over the cable ...
In the pictures here ... all PCB have a microUSB

So a part from some difference between V2 and V3 about some transistor relocation ... there is not visible any other difference ...

For me it is all very confusing

Clearly ... in this status ... I keep my #11 as it is ...

But ... move to #18 firmware is tempting

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Hi Yabba!

Saw you pop up here, also on the Polaris thread, (my next plane)

I'm still flying a few estarters, like here. Took a while to get the cg ok. This is #11 with wa lens. I might change to #18 firmware with namechanged #18 firmware, but not soon. Might have better color stability.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y7x...e_gdata_player
Hi Victa,

Yep, that EZStarter looks like a real Wattgobbler

You need to flash the #18 firmware and go get some more videos of those wild turkeys at your field.

Re: Polaris, BUILD ONE ! Quick. You'll love it.

Yabba
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:52 PM
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I assume I have a V1 because of the reference to the USB cable change V1->V2.

Another clue might be the EXIF data for single JPEG images. Here's mine, says program is V1.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 04:14 PM
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A quick flight with my quad and a No 11 camera.
The ruined abbey is a few minutes from where I live. It used to be the second richest and most powerful abbey in England.

TURN the sound down as the quad is pretty noisy !

Resized-Furness-Abbey (2 min 34 sec)
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparklet View Post
A quick flight with my quad and a No 11 camera.
The ruined abbey is a few minutes from where I live. It used to be the second richest and most powerful abbey in England.

TURN the sound down as the quad is pretty noisy !
Nice one.
I've never seen that one, used to live nr Whitby.

Mike
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Hi Mike,
I was surprised how much the quality drops when uploaded to Vimeo. The original video from the camera is much better.

I like Whitby and the ruined abbey on the cliff. This one is Furness Abbey and is located in the "Vale of deadly nightshade" so called because the stuff thrives in the valley where the abbey is tucked away.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Here's some cloud busting on a #11 cam, had it (cam) for a while now and haven't used it much. I think I've found a new life for it, one square inch of velcro on this flying wing held it on. Didn't even have to rebalance the CG, it flew just fine. Can't say that for GoPro!

Doug busting clouds in their puffy mouth (6 min 30 sec)
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:41 PM
Nakelp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparklet View Post
A quick flight with my quad and a No 11 camera.
The ruined abbey is a few minutes from where I live. It used to be the second richest and most powerful abbey in England.

TURN the sound down as the quad is pretty noisy !

https://vimeo.com/51463164
Great what props are you using?
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 05:40 PM
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Great what props are you using?
Hi,
The props are 10*4.5 - normal 2 bladed.
The quad is pretty heavy though and uses fairly large motors.
A lighter quad with the same type and size of prop is a lot quieter.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 06:49 PM
Nakelp
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Are they APC props?
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Are they APC props?
No.
They are "anonymous". Came from a seller in USA, but there are a number of places/countries where they can be found.

They are quite good. Pretty strong and available in different colours. I had a few different types before these. Some were a bit brittle, some - cheap from Hobby King wouldn't even lift a quad off the ground. Just changed the props out for better ones and it leapt into the air !

I like the N0 11 camera but will be sending off for a No 16 next week.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Fo those of use new to this thread, and just want to find the best keychain cam for strapping to a plane, can somount summarise whats out there right now? Didn't really wat to track through 600 pages of (most likely very useful) posts.
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 04:09 AM
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Fo those of use new to this thread, and just want to find the best keychain cam for strapping to a plane, can somount summarise whats out there right now? Didn't really wat to track through 600 pages of (most likely very useful) posts.
Of course both the #11 and #18 will work, but by far the most popular and extremely well supported by the developer is the #16. The #18 developer basically copies what the #16 developer has already done, so the #18 is always lagging behind. The #11 and #18 are identical except the #11 does not have video-out.

Click here for the #16 thread.

Depending on what type of plane you fly, the #16 is lighter than the other two, but at the cost of recording time. The #16 has a lighter and smaller battery, and the case is not so thick. The #16 runs about 40-45 mins., the #11/#18 up to 60 mins.

For fpv, the #16 is definitely better because it doesn't have unnecessary large icons cluttering up the video signal. It also uses much lighter cables which were designed with fpv in mind.

It's difficult to list the pros and cons because a lot depends on what you actually want. The video is pretty much identical on both models. The functionality is similar, the #16 is easier to setup and has more parameter settings for finer control. The #16 has time-lapse videos and uses a standard 5-pin mini USB plug.

The #18 USB mini 8-pin plug is non-standard and the developer completely messed up the connections. You need separate cables for accessing the camera as a removable disk and for recording with external power. If you require video-out you need another special cable which has to bridge two pins. The cables are heavy and more useful for connecting the camera to a TV. If that's what you want, then it's fine.
It's much more difficult to make your own cables for the #18, and right-angled solder plugs don't exist for the 8-pin plugs - at least I haven't found any...

The sellers are listed in post #2 in all the three threads.
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MrFollies View Post
Fo those of use new to this thread, and just want to find the best keychain cam for strapping to a plane, can somount summarise whats out there right now? Didn't really wat to track through 600 pages of (most likely very useful) posts.
#11 - $30
#16 - $38 - $43 depending on lens
#18 - $mid 30s

HK wing lens fits #11

In this, the boat cam is #11 with HK lens. Capcam is GoPro.

Boat & Floats TT (2 min 28 sec)
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 08:22 PM
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I have used extensively both the 11 and the 16, for me there's no argument. The 11 suffered a bad brown green colour hunting that badly messed up some of my videos. For a few $ more the 16 is far better.

Check out a few of the videos on my channel to see the evidence!
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 11:07 PM
Lee
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Just for fun here are a couple of videos with the #16 and the new #16 D wide angle.

I didn't edit color or jello. What you see is what you get. The video of the plane flying is shot from a #16 mounted on my transmitter.

Albatross with 808 #16 keychain cameras (3 min 5 sec)


This is the long version.

More testing with the 808 #16 and #16D HD video cameras (4 min 23 sec)


Another sample

808 #16D Keychain camera on RC Albatross (5 min 16 sec)
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Last edited by Lee; Nov 02, 2012 at 11:17 PM.
Old Nov 07, 2012, 01:48 PM
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808 #16

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Just for fun here are a couple of videos with the #16 and the new #16 D wide angle.

I didn't edit color or jello. What you see is what you get. The video of the plane flying is shot from a #16 mounted on my transmitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrpZPO2Jd6k

This is the long version.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4ZKOTjfNs

Another sample

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XfQXJsmW2w
That's very cool ! Where did you get that 808 #16 mini Dvr ? Thanks for sharing !
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 04:27 PM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1556994http://
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee View Post
Just for fun here are a couple of videos with the #16 and the new #16 D wide angle.

I didn't edit color or jello. What you see is what you get. The video of the plane flying is shot from a #16 mounted on my transmitter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrpZPO2Jd6k

This is the long version.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4ZKOTjfNs

Another sample

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XfQXJsmW2w
Quote:
Originally Posted by COCO2010 View Post
That's very cool ! Where did you get that 808 #16 mini Dvr ? Thanks for sharing !
The #16 has it's own dedicated thread. Why not post #16 stuff there?
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:31 PM
Lee
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I post in the #16 thread too but I always like to see a comparison. I have owned several different keychain cameras and like the wide angle #16 the best. It really stabilizes the video to have the wider angle lens. Since this is a RC forum I like to see the camera filming from a plane.

Try this on a 26" wing span plane with a G.P..

Scythe Target Practice (3 min 32 sec)
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 12:35 AM
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Is the method for changing the time stamp the same for the #11 and #16 version of these cameras?

Jim
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by WVrailfan View Post
Is the method for changing the time stamp the same for the #11 and #16 version of these cameras?

Jim
No. The #16 uses a completely different hardware design and thus uses different firmware. It is not from the same developer so configuration tools or files are not compatible. In addition, the #16 has USB plug-and-play communication so it's dead simple to set the time and any parameters by simply connecting the camera to a PC and running the GUI setup utility.

It is also possible to set #16 parameters using a text-file, so in the true sense, the method is similar, but not compatible.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Hi,
I will ask the question before assaulting the camera....

Is it easy to remove the lens and leave the sensor in place ?

I have been using the No11 for aerial photography for some time now.

I want to do some astrophotography. This uses a webcam, without lens, attached to the telescope. The No11 is probably better than most webcams so I thought about using that instead. I can then carry on AP with a No16 camera which will give better results.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparklet View Post
Hi,
I will ask the question before assaulting the camera....

Is it easy to remove the lens and leave the sensor in place ?

I have been using the No11 for aerial photography for some time now.

I want to do some astrophotography. This uses a webcam, without lens, attached to the telescope. The No11 is probably better than most webcams so I thought about using that instead. I can then carry on AP with a No16 camera which will give better results.
I think you'll find that you can screw the lens off, and ISTR someone early on removing the lens carrier from the sensor, cos I remember gritting my teeth when he explaned how to swab the surface of the sensor
I think that will screw up the spectral sensitivity - the lens has an IR filter.....
Mike
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Last edited by empeabee; Nov 09, 2012 at 11:21 AM. Reason: IR
Old Nov 09, 2012, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparklet View Post
Hi,
I will ask the question before assaulting the camera....

Is it easy to remove the lens and leave the sensor in place ?

I have been using the No11 for aerial photography for some time now.

I want to do some astrophotography. This uses a webcam, without lens, attached to the telescope. The No11 is probably better than most webcams so I thought about using that instead. I can then carry on AP with a No16 camera which will give better results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
I think you'll find that you can screw the lens off, and ISTR someone early on removing the lens carrier from the sensor, cos I remember gritting my teeth when he explaned how to swab the surface of the sensor
I think that will screw up the spectral sensitivity - the lens has an IR filter.....
Mike
It's possible, but your main problem will most likely be the glue holding the lens in the barrel. I've seen horror pictures of lenses destroyed by using pliers and brute force. Don't be tempted to do that! If possible, don't use any tool at all.

In a recent post, I can't remember in which thread, a poster used a tiny drop of acetone to soften the glue. He had to apply the acetone 3 times with a wait in-between but his method worked.

Be very, very careful when opening the lens and try and keep the barrel upside down to prevent dust entering. If you contaminate the CMOS array with dust or liquid it is all but impossible to clean it off.

A drop of acetone on the CMOS array will destroy it!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Hi,
Thanks for the replies.
I will be careful when I eventually try to remove the lens.
If it all goes "pear shaped" it won't be too big a disaster. I have had good use out of the N011 but the No16 performs even better.
I may just rip apart a cheap webcam to test the idea before having a go at the No11.

Thanks again for the comments.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:37 AM
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I pretty much know this question is pointless, BUT is there a FW update for the #11 that makes the #11 yellow LED flash like the #16 when it's recording video?

I'm pretty sure the the answer NO after reading the FAQ's in Post #3 of this thread, As Bullet Point #13 FAQ Asks - 'What different firmware is available for the original #11 camera?' Which then goes to show 6 x FW (REL2) updates that only relate to recording periods and something to do with if the Date/Clock/timer is displayed. To be honest I just left the original firmware in as I don't fully understand those FW updates.

The reason I ask if the LED can be enabled to flash is because I'm very P!ssed off about missing two very important (to me) recordings.

On both occasions (I thought) I had the #16 on the plane and the #11 on my cap.

With video 1, I launched my Bixler with Full power and the wings were (I presume) not fully plugged in when got to about 50' high the slid out only to be held by the CF rod and the started spinning on the rod, I killed the power straight away and it was quite a sight to see plane flutter to the ground with wings spinning kinda like a Butterfly. It touched down light enough to do no damage other than a few prop strikes to the trailing edge of one the wings. The thing is none of this can be seen from the onboard #16 mounted on the just behind canopy, and the damned #11 on my cap was not recording. --AArrghhh

With Video 2, I maiden my A-10 only have the #11 not record again, to make matters worse I forgot to put the #16 on the plane, so ended up no recording at all. I crashed the A-10 (luckily into long bush, so the damage was minimal as well), It was flying like brick so I had a panic attack, killed the power and attemped to glide home, only fall very fast. I have since learnt (been told), I need to learn that flying EDF's with extremely high wing loading is totally different to a 'normal' plane and that the power pretty much needs to on all the time as the are NOT gliders!! - Will attempt with the A-10 again this Sunday.

Anyway all that aside, is there anyway the #11 can have the LED flash while it's recording?

Might just buy another #16 I think.

-B!LL!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
I pretty much know this question is pointless, BUT is there a FW update for the #11 that makes the #11 yellow LED flash like the #16 when it's recording video?
...
-B!LL!
If your #11 is a v2 (with the smaller "non-standard" 8 pin USB plug), this FW will turn on the recording LED). If yours is a v1 with the "normal" 5 pin mini-USB plug, this FW should not be installed.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Thanks Tom. Unfortunately it's must be a V1 as it uses the same USB as the #16, which I presume is the standard port you mention. Thanks anyway. I'll just get another #16 I think. I'd rather do that miss out on classic video footage.
-B!

PS: I Just did a test record with the #11 and worked fine.
1/Powered up.
2/Pressed the shutter button until the Yellow LED flashed 3 times and went out.
3/Scanned around the workshop/shed for 30 seconds.
4/ Pressed Shutter button again to stop recording (3 flashes again) and it shut down.
5/RESULT: Perfect it recorded.

However the problem is out in the bright sunlight at the field it's very hard to confirm that these flashes are actually happened and more than once I've ran through the sequence a couple a of times because unsure if recording, only to possibly shut it off when it WAS recording!!
At least with the Flashing record LED you know for sure it's there is gunna be a VIDEO
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Thanks Tom. Unfortunately it's must be a V1 as it uses the same USB as the #16, which I presume is the standard port you mention. Thanks anyway. I'll just get another #16 I think. I'd rather do that miss out on classic video footage.
-B!

PS: I Just did a test record with the #11 and worked fine.
1/Powered up.
2/Pressed the shutter button until the Yellow LED flashed 3 times and went out.
3/Scanned around the workshop/shed for 30 seconds.
4/ Pressed Shutter button again to stop recording (3 flashes again) and it shut down.
5/RESULT: Perfect it recorded.

However the problem is out in the bright sunlight at the field it's very hard to confirm that these flashes are actually happened and more than once I've ran through the sequence a couple a of times because unsure if recording, only to possibly shut it off when it WAS recording!!
At least with the Flashing record LED you know for sure it's there is gunna be a VIDEO
Yep, it's a V1. You might try drilling out the hole over the LED a tiny bit get a better angle into the LED. I used to shield the hole with my hand and/or body to better see the LED as well when in bright sun.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Thanks TOM,
So here's a question to all - or someone who tried the FW....

From POST#9323.... Tom notes the #11 V2 FW....

Description of #11 FIRMWARE
#11V2_Time Off_LED On.zip (1.04 MB, 388 views) The folder name describes what the FW does. I do not have a V2 #11 camera and have NOT tested this FW, so use it at your own risk.

TOM's ADDITIONAL NOTE ON THE FIRMWARE
WARNING! This firmware is ONLY usable with the new version 2 #11, easily recognized by its smaller, non-standard 8-pin miniUSB plug. Do NOT attempt to install this in the original #11 cameras! See this post for firmware for the original #11 camera.

I do not have the new V2 #11 camera so have not tested this firmware. Use it at your own risk.


---

MY question has anyone in fact (been silly enough) tried this FW on the #11 V1 and if so WHAT HAPPENED, I presume no has, but if so what happened:
1/ Nothing?
2/ The Camera was bricked?
3/ Amazing it worked?

-B!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Thanks TOM,
So here's a question to all - or someone who tried the FW....

From POST#9323.... Tom notes the #11 V2 FW....

Description of #11 FIRMWARE
#11V2_Time Off_LED On.zip (1.04 MB, 388 views) The folder name describes what the FW does. I do not have a V2 #11 camera and have NOT tested this FW, so use it at your own risk.

TOM's ADDITIONAL NOTE ON THE FIRMWARE
WARNING! This firmware is ONLY usable with the new version 2 #11, easily recognized by its smaller, non-standard 8-pin miniUSB plug. Do NOT attempt to install this in the original #11 cameras! See this post for firmware for the original #11 camera.

I do not have the new V2 #11 camera so have not tested this firmware. Use it at your own risk.

---

MY question has anyone in fact (been silly enough) tried this FW on the #11 V1 and if so WHAT HAPPENED, I presume no has, but if so what happened:
1/ Nothing?
2/ The Camera was bricked?
3/ Amazing it worked?

-B!
Post deleted... info not verifiable, so I ditched it.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Thanks TOM,
So here's a question to all - or someone who tried the FW....

From POST#9323.... Tom notes the #11 V2 FW....

Description of #11 FIRMWARE
#11V2_Time Off_LED On.zip (1.04 MB, 388 views) The folder name describes what the FW does. I do not have a V2 #11 camera and have NOT tested this FW, so use it at your own risk.

TOM's ADDITIONAL NOTE ON THE FIRMWARE
WARNING! This firmware is ONLY usable with the new version 2 #11, easily recognized by its smaller, non-standard 8-pin miniUSB plug. Do NOT attempt to install this in the original #11 cameras! See this post for firmware for the original #11 camera.

I do not have the new V2 #11 camera so have not tested this firmware. Use it at your own risk.


---

MY question has anyone in fact (been silly enough) tried this FW on the #11 V1 and if so WHAT HAPPENED, I presume no has, but if so what happened:
1/ Nothing?
2/ The Camera was bricked?
3/ Amazing it worked?

-B!

If #18 firmware works perfectly on #11 V1 and #18 hardware is the same as #11 V2 I think #11 v2 firmware will work on #11 v1.
Just need to rename the file to the name of #11v1 firmware which is the one that camera bootloader will look for.

This said, is much better install the last #18 firmware with much better image quality and plenty of configurations. A whole new life to your old #11.
I have 3 #11 v1 with #18 firmware and the image is very similar to my #16s, just a little more saturation (a plus for me).
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 08:23 PM
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I have a #11 that I bought april 2011 (I believe it's version 1 as it has the larger mini usb connector with the thick wire)... I tried to make the "special cord" to charge/record at the same time off a 4 AA cell pack as the battery dies after about 15mins.. I followed the instructions and have #4 pin Positive and #5 pin Negative.. I checked with a volt meter and it works fine 5v... But the camera isn't working as it still dies after about 15 mins... Any ideas as to what I should try? I flashed the Rel2 - Remove Time - Noncontinue (4GB).

Also how many minutes of video can I expect from a 4g card?
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 05:31 AM
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I have a #11 and I can get over 45mins on a 4Gig card using the internal battery.
The card has lots of space left empty.
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savage 40 View Post
I have a #11 that I bought april 2011 (I believe it's version 1 as it has the larger mini usb connector with the thick wire)... I tried to make the "special cord" to charge/record at the same time off a 4 AA cell pack as the battery dies after about 15mins.. I followed the instructions and have #4 pin Positive and #5 pin Negative.. I checked with a volt meter and it works fine 5v... But the camera isn't working as it still dies after about 15 mins... Any ideas as to what I should try? I flashed the Rel2 - Remove Time - Noncontinue (4GB).

Also how many minutes of video can I expect from a 4g card?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzyflier View Post
I have a #11 and I can get over 45mins on a 4Gig card using the internal battery.
The card has lots of space left empty.
The newer #11s, even those with the 5-pin USB socket, have a slightly larger casing and battery as the first #11s. I don't know when they changed the size of the casing but it was most probably just before they added the non-standard 8-pin mini-USB. With the original casing, 45 minutes using the internal battery is pushing things to the extreme. The new, larger and slightly heavier battery, will do this easily.

I've made well over 10 of those cables, and they work!
Are you sure you have +5V under load and not around 4.2V? Depending on the batteries and/or holder there may be a small diode built into the holder which reduces the voltage by about 0.7V.

Does the red LED turn on when you connect your battery? The very, very early versions didn't show any LED when using the special cable, so that isn't a true indication if your cable is working or not.

I'm presuming you've wired the plug correctly. Pin #4 is the one next to the ground, 3 pins away from the standard +5V pin.

The firmware has absolutely nothing to do with the "special" power supply. It is a true appendix and totally isolated from the rest of the system.

4GB will give you a little more than 70 minutes of video at 7Mb/s.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:14 AM
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I'm having a problem with the camera I got yesterday. It's a #11 (shows 18 on back) with the weird style usb connector. I cannot get it to record video when disconnected from my computer.

When I press the power button, the yellow light turns on for about 5 seconds and then goes off. I charged it overnight, same thing. I can connect it in webcam mode and read the SD card from my computer so that seems to be working. It's just when it's not connected to the computer that nothing works.

I've read through the earlier pages of this thread but didn't see information about a problem like this. Any help?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpolaris502 View Post
I'm having a problem with the camera I got yesterday. It's a #11 (shows 18 on back) with the weird style usb connector. I cannot get it to record video when disconnected from my computer.

When I press the power button, the yellow light turns on for about 5 seconds and then goes off. I charged it overnight, same thing. I can connect it in webcam mode and read the SD card from my computer so that seems to be working. It's just when it's not connected to the computer that nothing works.

I've read through the earlier pages of this thread but didn't see information about a problem like this. Any help?
It may be you have a dud battery that cannot hold a charge. Does it record normally when powered by the external car charger?
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Joined Jul 2005
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I know this is pointless post but I had similar problem last night while upgraded the FW on one of my #16's from v0.36 to V0.49, so I could have time lapse function with intention of filming the Solar Eclipse in 10 second intervals, however the damned clouds spoiled my fun here in Sydney and all I ended up with was about 150 pictures of heavy cloud.

But I had the same problem where the cam was doing the same thing (at first I thought I might have bricked it), I finally got t going, but for the life of me I can't remember how - as it 6.30am and I had been up all night working on website stuff, watching 'When We left Earth' and working on my R/C Models.
If I think of what the solution was was I'll let you know. - Even if you are talking about the #11 and not #16, there could a relation. However I'll let you know if I remember what the problem was. Try another memory card, I was getting them mixed up during the upgrade and I think it came good with different card in it or perhaps was not inserted properly or had a bad contact - dunno.

-B!
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:11 PM
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You might be right about that, Tom. I can record just fine while it's plugged into the 12v car adapter and the charging USB cable. (The other must just be for data transfer). I unplugged the power from the camera while it was recording and it kept recording for another 5 seconds while unplugged and then stopped when the battery must have died.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpolaris502 View Post
You might be right about that, Tom. I can record just fine while it's plugged into the 12v car adapter and the charging USB cable. (The other must just be for data transfer). I unplugged the power from the camera while it was recording and it kept recording for another 5 seconds while unplugged and then stopped when the battery must have died.
It's also possible, but not as likely, that your camera's charging circuit is not functioning properly. Finally, open the camera case and see if the battery is securely plugged into it's socket. You could unplug and re-seat it to be sure.

If that does do anything and you have no external lipo charge to test your battery with, try emailing your camera vendor with the details. You can likley get a replacement battery under warranty.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 02:44 PM
Lee
PERFECT LANDING !!!
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I put the standard 808 #16 on my transmitter and had the 808 #16V2 D lens on the plane for this video. The entire video was shot with these two cameras.

RC Bowling with Reaper #16D HD (re-edit) (3 min 11 sec)
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Joined Jul 2005
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Lee,

Cool video, cool 'combat / targeting cones' stuff.
Tell us about your field, with nice grass, whats with 'asphalt/tar' looking area with the white lines, what's with 'fencing' with the white rings.
It's all quite different - What does it all mean?!!
Looks like some weird field out of Realflight Simulator.

Did you say shot with #16 cams! - You'll get busted by Tom, this is the #11 thread!!!

-B!LL!
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Lee,

Cool video, cool 'combat / targeting cones' stuff.
Tell us about your field, with nice grass, whats with 'asphalt/tar' looking area with the white lines, what's with 'fencing' with the white rings.
It's all quite different - What does it all mean?!!
Looks like some weird field out of Realflight Simulator.

Did you say shot with #16 cams! - You'll get busted by Tom, this is the #11 thread!!!

-B!LL!
Those are irrigation sprinkler piping systems. But you're right... #16 video is off-topic in the #11 thread, and should be posted in the #16 thread (please!)
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
It's also possible, but not as likely, that your camera's charging circuit is not functioning properly. Finally, open the camera case and see if the battery is securely plugged into it's socket. You could unplug and re-seat it to be sure.

If that does do anything and you have no external lipo charge to test your battery with, try emailing your camera vendor with the details. You can likley get a replacement battery under warranty.
You are pretty in-tune with this camera stuff and the vendors. You called it, I emailed them after my last reply and they are sending out a new battery. Guess I'll be waiting another 2+ weeks for that now. I might crack open the camera and take a look inside in the mean time.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:01 AM
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I've read lots of posts but did not find an answer to my question:
is there a firmware for #11 V2 that supports Stop/Save/Continue function?
I tried to make recording with external power supply but got only one 4Gb file. Then yellow led lights up and recording stops.
What are possible ways to make long recording that fill the whole 32Gb memory card?
Thanks
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rafael73 View Post
I've read lots of posts but did not find an answer to my question:
is there a firmware for #11 V2 that supports Stop/Save/Continue function?
I tried to make recording with external power supply but got only one 4Gb file. Then yellow led lights up and recording stops.
What are possible ways to make long recording that fill the whole 32Gb memory card?
Thanks
I don't have a #11 V2, but S/S/C has always been supported. However, you need a "special" cable if you want to use external power. The 8 pin connections have been posted several times.
Here's the link.

You can use the normal cable if you connect the cable after you have started the recording - at least that's the way it works with the V1.

IMO, the #11 and #18 were badly designed for use with external power. The #16 can use external power using any standard cable.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rafael73 View Post
I've read lots of posts but did not find an answer to my question:
is there a firmware for #11 V2 that supports Stop/Save/Continue function?
I tried to make recording with external power supply but got only one 4Gb file. Then yellow led lights up and recording stops.
What are possible ways to make long recording that fill the whole 32Gb memory card?
Thanks
The only FW available is posted for download in the front of this thread. The FAT 32 file system cannot save files longer than 4GB, and will always stop and save at that point, but I don't know if it is supposed to continue from there (I also don't have the v2 #11 camera). Earlier v1 #11 camera had problems doing this with some FW versions.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Received my HD #11 camera from Power GPS today, but it does not seem to record or take pictures.

After pressing the power button, the yellow light keep blinking. Pressing the shutter button does nothing, and pressing the power button does not change modes.

I plugged it into my computer which it recognizes as a disc drive and I have to right click to open as removable storage, but there doesn't seem to be anything on the card.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 10:13 AM
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I am assuming you have fitted a flash card and charged the battery. You should charge the battery when you receive the camera.

Usually a quick press of the power button and the LED light comes on then goes off again, a second later it comes on again and stays on. The camera is now powered up and ready to go. A quick press on the power button and the camera will take still photos.

Pressing the shutter button will cause the LED to flash 3 times then go out. It is now recording video but there is no LED on to indicate anything is happening. Pressing the shutter button again after a few seconds of recording and the LED lights up as recording stops. Hold the power button down until the camera powers down and the LED goes out.

Good luck...
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:13 PM
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For some reason I was under the impression it came with 4GB of on board memory and that the slot was just for expansion.
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 08:19 PM
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MrBilly,

I can't even find a place called "Power GPS" using Google to have look why you got the impression the Camera came with internal 4gig.

Have you fitted memory and got cam working now?

-B!LL!
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 11:37 PM
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H-264-HD-C...item230e978a6d

So I bought a memory card. It stayed in place once, but now it won't lock in.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBilly View Post
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H-264-HD-C...item230e978a6d

So I bought a memory card. It stayed in place once, but now it won't lock in.
Tape it in ?
Don't know if it will work in your case but I always tape over the flash card so it doesn't accidentally lose contact while flying/crashing, etc.
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Old Nov 18, 2012, 11:27 AM
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My finger tip is not enough (I bite my nails way down, nervous flyer!?)
To get get them lock in on some of my #3, #11, #16 Cams, I often need to use the the edge/tip of something thing else like a toothpick, small screwdriver etc, to make sure mem card is getting pushed fully home and latching/locking in.
-B!
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Old Nov 19, 2012, 03:12 AM
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I opened it up and that gave me enough room to push it in and have it lock.

Now everything seems to work perfectly.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 03:06 PM
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Way off topic but it shows just how versatile these little cameras are....

The N011 has served me well for aerial photography but has been replaced by a No16.

Becoming interested in astrophotography using webcams I decided the HD No11 could do a better job.

Lens removed, I was lucky it just easily unscrewed, and camera placed where the eyepiece would go on the telescope and away we went.

The photo of the moon was done with a small, cheap (read - not very good) telescope during a quick break in the perpetual cloud cover here.

Results are not bad at all, they will be much better when I get the camera on my big reflector telescope.

The N011 camera lives on !
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Sparklet,

That is indeed a nice shot of the MOON. I love the moon too. I wish I some the planets closers so could get pictures those too.

However I'm sure we'd both be first in line to sign if 'we' ever decide to go back (to the Moon) and set a launch pad for traveling out of the solar system into interstellar space that which I UNFORTUNATELY don't think will even will happen by the 24th Century (circa Star Trek time line! I wish it would happen before the turn of decade - That gives 7 years to build the rockets, if they could do in the '60's lets do NOW!

However I'm unsure if you used a #16 (or 'NO16' as you call it) or a #11 for the shot / photo?

Are you trying get around the fact that the 'official' #16 thread has been closed (and Fishie's weird idea of making a part 'two' #16 thread - which has been promptly renamed and many the posts edited out or modified)

And you a attempting to move us all over to this thread! - Which I think naturally 90% of the #16 community would come to?
If so good CALL. But I'm scared to death Tom is instantly going to jump on us, and close this thread too, particularly if Fishycomic starts trying to put text posts here!

All that aside GREAT shot, repeating, but was it a #11 or #16 used?

Yes I'm stupidly stirring the pot because I'm rather upset - no, make VERY upset) that Tom (and the rest of us) got in trouble for telling a certain person (has he been mentioned?) to STOP posting his endless messages on the #16 thread that 9/10 make no sense. The video's he made were fine - that weird New York accent or whatever it was of his used to freak me out!, But...

-B!LL!

PS: I've already been banned from Hobby King forums, so why stop there. If I get kicked off RCG for this, I'll have a TON more time for model building and flying!!
This post is not proff <-see!!, read, so this might turn out like one of a 'you know who you are' posts.
Sorry to 'you know who you are', you know I really love ya, but man the #16 is GONE anfd we all know why. (save FW updates etc)

PPS: I was almost gunna NOT post this but I thought to hell with it, it took too long type. I'm the two finger typist!!!! - LOL
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Sparklet,

That is indeed a nice shot of the MOON. I love the moon too. I wish I some the planets closers so could get pictures those too.

However I'm sure we'd both be first in line to sign if 'we' ever decide to go back (to the Moon) and set a launch pad for traveling out of the solar system into interstellar space that which I UNFORTUNATELY don't think will even will happen by the 24th Century (circa Star Trek time line! I wish it would happen before the turn of decade - That gives 7 years to build the rockets, if they could do in the '60's lets do NOW!

However I'm unsure if you used a #16 (or 'NO16' as you call it) or a #11 for the shot / photo?

Are you trying get around the fact that the 'official' #16 thread has been closed (and Fishie's weird idea of making a part 'two' #16 thread - which has been promptly renamed and many the posts edited out or modified)

And you a attempting to move us all over to this thread! - Which I think naturally 90% of the #16 community would come to?
If so good CALL. But I'm scared to death Tom is instantly going to jump on us, and close this thread too, particularly if Fishycomic starts trying to put text posts here!

All that aside GREAT shot, repeating, but was it a #11 or #16 used?

Yes I'm stupidly stirring the pot because I'm rather upset - no, make VERY upset) that Tom (and the rest of us) got in trouble for telling a certain person (has he been mentioned?) to STOP posting his endless messages on the #16 thread that 9/10 make no sense. The video's he made were fine - that weird New York accent or whatever it was of his used to freak me out!, But...

-B!LL!

PS: I've already been banned from Hobby King forums, so why stop there. If I get kicked off RCG for this, I'll have a TON more time for model building and flying!!
This post is not proff <-see!!, read, so this might turn out like one of a 'you know who you are' posts.
Sorry to 'you know who you are', you know I really love ya, but man the #16 is GONE anfd we all know why. (save FW updates etc)

PPS: I was almost gunna NOT post this but I thought to hell with it, it took too long type. I'm the two finger typist!!!! - LOL
For the record, my #16 post is not dead. I thought I had clearly mentioned that it will reopen shortly in one of the last posts. It is just taking a break from inane posts! I hope to re-open it this coming week with new firmware AND new sensibility to the posts therein. So, see you there soon...

Having said that, this telescope adaptation of an 808HD camera is intriguing. I have a 6 in reflector telescope that I could try this with and I'd like to know more info on how the camera was adapted to the eyepiece holder and how it's focused (trial and error?). BUT, this thread is not the place for it, unfortunately. There is a separate forum here for totally off-topic threads, so if any details are forthcoming, that would be a good place for starting a new thread there, so have at it, and let me know (by PM) that's it's there!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Nov 25, 2012 at 10:10 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2012, 07:56 PM
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I just posted a video there.. 808 for astro sounds way cool!
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 02:36 PM
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Hi Bill,
It was a No11 camera. I now have a No16 for aerial videos so decided to use the No11 with my telescope.

Tom,
Will post some info on the forum you suggested.
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Those moon pictures and videos are great!!

Sorry to see the #16 thread closed. Not dead but flat on its back and not breathing!!! Maybe we should use the Mega keyfob thread until...
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Great moon shot. How did you focus the telescope to the cmos? I would have thought it would need to be precise?

edit, sorry I see you have posted more details in the other thread!
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Those moon pictures and videos are great!!

Sorry to see the #16 thread closed. Not dead but flat on its back and not breathing!!! Maybe we should use the Mega keyfob thread until...
It is an huge temptation to try to do something like these pictures, except in UK in wiwnter we only see the underside of clouds most of the time .

Tom's #16 thread is locked, but he has posted there that it will re-open again soon when a new firmware release is cleared for release.
there is an orphan thread, origionally opened by FishyComics as a copy thread, which he cleared all his messages from, renamed and abandoned, which remains open (for now) and had some chitchat going on. HERE . the name "Discussion take note of abuse" is ironic as FC seems to have dissipated completely, ?banned? anyone know?
Mike
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Last edited by empeabee; Nov 26, 2012 at 06:48 PM. Reason: sorry for OffTopic. Will not mention again.
Old Nov 26, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Has anyone tried the new #18 firmware in their #11? I assume it works with the early version #11.

Thanks!
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Has anyone tried the new #18 firmware in their #11? I assume it works with the early version #11.

Thanks!
The developer put a block on that... I suspect it is still there. People were buying cheaper #11 cameras then loading #18 FW into them to get a "deal".
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The developer put a block on that... I suspect it is still there. People were buying cheaper #11 cameras then loading #18 FW into them to get a "deal".
I think they crippled the newer version #11 hardware, but I was hoping the firmware works for V1. Some folks have done this by changing the firmware filename, but prior to the September #18 firmware version as far as I know.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
I think they crippled the newer version #11 hardware, but I was hoping the firmware works for V1. Some folks have done this by changing the firmware filename, but prior to the September #18 firmware version as far as I know.
Oh, I thought you were asking about the newer #11 version accepting #18 FW. I flashed one of the old #11 versions when the #18 FW came out, and it worked but it was a one way street. Flashing back to #11 resulted in tiny 16:9 aspect frame size. I remember posting about all this a long time ago in this thread, so you can probably find it with a proper search key. My #11 cameras have all met their expiration dates, so I've no way to check anymore.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Nov 27, 2012 at 08:25 AM.
Old Nov 27, 2012, 09:01 AM
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So sad the #11 vendors don't provide this as after-sales service. I'll keep using the old firmware despite the color instability.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:09 AM
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USA, CO, Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee;23370459[COLOR=black
]...([/COLOR]He who's name shall not be mentioned) seems to have dissipated completely, ?banned? anyone know?
Mike
Gawd, I hope so

Yabba
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Has anyone tried the new #18 firmware in their #11? I assume it works with the early version #11.

Thanks!
I just wondered if anyone had tried the 16 firmware on the 11? Any versions that might improve the brown green colour shift problem? I note that some have tried the 18 firmware. (I've got quite a few old versions of 16 firmware saved.)
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I just wondered if anyone had tried the 16 firmware on the 11? Any versions that might improve the brown green colour shift problem? I note that some have tried the 18 firmware. (I've got quite a few old versions of 16 firmware saved.)
I've not tried it, Bob, but I'm pretty sure it will not work. The #11 and #18 were from the same developer and similar in the early versions. The #16 is a totally different developer and circuit design, so I would not try it.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I just wondered if anyone had tried the 16 firmware on the 11? Any versions that might improve the brown green colour shift problem? I note that some have tried the 18 firmware. (I've got quite a few old versions of 16 firmware saved.)
I would also very much advise against it. Remember the hardware circuits are completely different, the most important difference being the #16 has three LEDs but the #18 only has two. The LEDs, except the battery charge LED, are controlled by firmware, so I don't know what will happen if the firmware wants to output a signal and there is no electrical connection.

In the worst case you will destroy your camera. In the next worse case you will brick it, but could recover the firmware by reprogramming the SPI. The best case would be if it would work, except for one LED.

Even if you would have the best case, I doubt you would be very happy blindly pressing buttons because of a missing LED.

This is one test I would personally not do.
IMO, you have nothing to gain, but a lot to use.

There are better solutions....
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Tom and gang I apologize as I'm a tad late in this LONG thread on the #18. I bought 3 for my sons for Christmas from Helexapro on eBay. I still run my 2 #11's for my heli flight videos and hat cam and they work fine for what I do. I've bought all my cams from Helexapro. No issuer ever.

Now my questions as this is a long thread to search...... Beside the additional features over the #11. Are they at least as good video quality wise as the #11? I ordered them (.MOV) with the latest firmware and the date/time stamp removed. These will pretty much be used by my boys as hat cams for flying and other general purpose filming etc. I also got them Class 10 4GB cards for them as well. Hope I didn't screw the pooch and they work OK with decent video/sound. Just got them the other day. Again sorry for the late jump in as I just need a basic opinion on quality, ease of use (probably like the #11). Thanks in advance for the input........ Tony

Incidentally these are the 3 I ordered and received...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320997840897...84.m1497.l2649
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Last edited by firedude52; Dec 01, 2012 at 10:50 AM.
Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firedude52 View Post
Tom and gang I apologize as I'm a tad late in this LONG thread on the #18. I bought 3 for my sons for Christmas from Helexapro on eBay. I still run my 2 #11's for my heli flight videos and hat cam and they work fine for what I do. I've bought all my cams from Helexapro. No issuer ever.

Now my questions as this is a long thread to search...... Beside the additional features over the #11. Are they at least as good video quality wise as the #11? I ordered them (.MOV) with the latest firmware and the date/time stamp removed. These will pretty much be used by my boys as hat cams for flying and other general purpose filming etc. I also got them Class 10 4GB cards for them as well. Hope I didn't screw the pooch and they work OK with decent video/sound. Just got them the other day. Again sorry for the late jump in as I just need a basic opinion on quality, ease of use (probably like the #11). Thanks in advance for the input........ Tony
The #18 is MUCH better over all. More stable image colors (none of that white balance shift the #11 had), and now you can load in firmware which allows changing settings via a GUI program and configuration text file rather than having to load in new firmware for each change.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Thanks Tom! Just what I was looking for. May order a couple more for myself. I was suppose to receive and email with the GUI program and config file listed on the sellers page, but see it's available here so will download for me and the boys. the boys aren't real techie so they may choose not to mess with it, but In will, Thanks again!..... Tony
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by firedude52 View Post
Thanks Tom! Just what I was looking for. May order a couple more for myself. I was suppose to receive and email with the GUI program and config file listed on the sellers page, but see it's available here so will download for me and the boys. the boys aren't real techie so they may choose not to mess with it, but In will, Thanks again!..... Tony
Both of the files you want are in my #18 thread (you're in the #11 thread here, so you won't find any #18 files here).
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Thanks Tom, I found them.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:25 AM
Nakelp
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Im sorry if this is too much off the topic here but I cant find answers elswere.
Im recording with #16, transfer files to windows movie maker and once I cut unwanted piece of video it doesnt play any reminding piece (black screen with sound).
If I transfer the file to Corel Video studio I can cut all I want but then once I touch the file the video skips frames :-(.
I have two or three vids now I can not edit :-(( anywhere. Did not have this problem with file from FPV cam or older #16.
Do I need to convert to some different format first?
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakelp86 View Post
Im sorry if this is too much off the topic here but I cant find answers elswere.
Im recording with #16, transfer files to windows movie maker and once I cut unwanted piece of video it doesnt play any reminding piece (black screen with sound).
If I transfer the file to Corel Video studio I can cut all I want but then once I touch the file the video skips frames :-(.
I have two or three vids now I can not edit :-(( anywhere. Did not have this problem with file from FPV cam or older #16.
Do I need to convert to some different format first?
This is the #11 thread, you need the #16 thread.
IF you read posts 1,2.3 & 4, There, they will givr you a lot of help, as the symptoms described are known problems with work- arounds.
Mike
.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakelp86 View Post
Im sorry if this is too much off the topic here but I cant find answers elswere.
Im recording with #16, transfer files to windows movie maker and once I cut unwanted piece of video it doesnt play any reminding piece (black screen with sound).
If I transfer the file to Corel Video studio I can cut all I want but then once I touch the file the video skips frames :-(.
I have two or three vids now I can not edit :-(( anywhere. Did not have this problem with file from FPV cam or older #16.
Do I need to convert to some different format first?
First, are you using the old XP version of MM? It sounds like you are using the .AVI file version of the #16 firmware, which saves non-standard AVI files that does exactly what you describe with some of the less capable editors. The MOV format version doesn't have this problem, but may have other for some editors.

I suggest you read the large discussion on editing at the beginning of this thread (post #3?) or in my #16 thread (you are posting in the #11 thread here, so the #16 is off topic (but has the same issues with editing).
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:09 PM
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Filmed this one using my keychain camera and a RCLogger RC Eye One quad


Aerial Video using KeyFob Camera on RCLogger Microquad
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 12:41 PM
Nakelp
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Thx and again sorry for diverting the thread but I am getting desperate
Sorry and thank you Tom
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 05:08 PM
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I've just stripped an old #11 down to 6.7 grams to go on a micro quad:









The main weight saving is by running the camera off the quad's cell, at the moment though the camera shuts down at 2:20 although the quad doesn't show LVC till just over 6 mins. I will try some better cells that may drop less voltage under load - worst case it will easily handle the weight of a second cell just for the camera if nesc.

Only done a quick test indoors in dim light (worst conditions for a #11 ) - pretty impressed with the lack of vibration. 30 second extract (turn the sound down - I must disconnect or tape over the mic ):

X4test (0 min 38 sec)
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:56 PM
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strange noise

Hi everyone,

I have had this problem several times with #11 and #18 cameras, and now I have finally found some time to record a sample video and show you the problem.
The video posted below is a sample clip extracted from a +1h longer video recorded with my #11 camera. At the beginning the video was perfect considering that it is taken inside my room. After a while, a noise appeared on the right and get more and more intense during the video. At the end, the video was completely ruined. What happened?

problem with #11 (0 min 0 sec)


ginetto
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Last edited by ginetto; Dec 04, 2012 at 07:46 PM.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
Hi everyone,

I have had this problem several times with #11 and #18 cameras, and now I have finally found some time to record a sample video and show you the problem.
The video posted below is a sample clip extracted from a +1h longer video recorded with my #11 camera. At the beginning the video was perfect considering that it is taken inside my room. After a while, a noise appeared on the right and get more and more intense during the video. At the end, the video was completely ruined. What happened?

https://vimeo.com/54899227

ginetto
Your video link did not work, but based on your description, that is the "classic" artifact of a battery that is running out of juice. Normally the camera should stop recording before that happens, but obviously yours does not.in it's
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Your video link did not work, but based on your description, that is the "classic" artifact of a battery that is running out of juice. Normally the camera should stop recording before that happens, but obviously yours does not.in it's
The Vimeo is still processing the video.. You can see this other video recorded with #11 version 2.

Noise (0 min 29 sec)


Here, I had the same problem but smaller.

I do not think it a problem of battery, because the noise (a brighter area on the right) became visible after 2 minutes and it increases for +1 hour.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
The Vimeo is still processing the video.. You can see this other video recorded with #11 version 2.

https://vimeo.com/46286418

Here, I had the same problem but smaller.

I do not think it a problem of battery, because the noise (a brighter area on the right) became visible after 2 minutes and it increases for +1 hour.
Mtz also had this problem with his #16, albeit not nearly as bad.
A member on the #16 thread suggested the problem could be with the CMOS lens module overheating, which I believe is very logical, especially since we now know this problem also occurs with the #11 / #18.

The only other possibility is that light could be entering into the rear of the CMOS module. If the camera case is intact, and no LED is on during recording, I think we can rule out this possibility.

The only solution is to purchase a new lens module or add additional cooling. If the camera is new, I suggest you contact the seller for a replacement.

From what I have read in the #16 thread, the problem only seems to appear when the cameras record over a long period of time.
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