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Old Aug 18, 2012, 03:07 AM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Thanks guy! What I did in the mean time was get a female lead from the hobby shop, cut out the old batt, make a notch for the lead to hang out, solder on and attach a eflite CX batt w/Velcro to the side for a hat cam. 160ma ought to get a few 4-5 min flights for Doppler speed checks etc! Works like a charm and best of all is, no more beep beep beep on the vid! Seems as the vid quality has improved vastly too! I forgot how good these were!
Are you charging via the cam's USB port? Or pulling the battery off to charge elsewhere?
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 01:16 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Doesn't matter now anyway. the cam is a POS dead frickin brick. I can get it to turn on and off, I can hold the button till it flashes and as soon as I press the button to snap a shot it turns off. After turning it on I have to reset to get it to turn on again, I hit the record button, it blinks three times and turns off. The internal charger is toast as I did remove and charge it at 2a(160ma batt) on a friends adapter to 4.2v and still it don't do nuttin but sit there aggravating me....
Whats better these days the 16 or 18? I see the 18 has some bastardized plug. why not a mini usb like everyone else?
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
Doesn't matter now anyway. the cam is a POS dead frickin brick. I can get it to turn on and off, I can hold the button till it flashes and as soon as I press the button to snap a shot it turns off. After turning it on I have to reset to get it to turn on again, I hit the record button, it blinks three times and turns off. The internal charger is toast as I did remove and charge it at 2a(160ma batt) on a friends adapter to 4.2v and still it don't do nuttin but sit there aggravating me....
Whats better these days the 16 or 18? I see the 18 has some bastardized plug. why not a mini usb like everyone else?
The #16 mini USB plug is WAY better and standard. IMO.

I expect your #11 is toast because of the non-standard and finicky 8-pin plug. That can happen to any camera if you get the connections wrong. That's why a standard 5-pin USB plug is so much better - it's standard!

My personal choice is the #16 because it's so flexible. I would by lying if I would recommend the #18, but the choice is yours. Both take excellent video, but the #16 exceeds in it's flexibility - and the 5-pin USB plug.

If you are not 100% sure of what you are doing, I also suggest you only use the internal battery supplied with the camera - or a replacement from the #16 seller.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 06:01 PM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by nerys View Post
man if we could get firmware that would auto start stop with outside power (ie start engine on stop engine off) and loop record with avi for no "gap"

this would be "THE" killer CAR DVR especially with the D lens. they are so cheap and tiny you could run TWO so you get tight and wide shots.
I have to admit, I'm intrigued by the functionality of needing a driving recorder. Why is one needed at all? Maybe it's due to local differences in state or country laws, but the places I've lived, my car insurance pays for damages no matter who is at fault, and police reports, etc. can be used to determine fault. That's something the insurance company has to figure out as to whether to subrogate against the other driver and/or their insurance company.

The developer has already giving the ability to start the camera by simply pressing the power on button. Having it record as soon as power is applied circumvents the other features of the camera, e.g. photos and webcam use. If you want a camera that does all that you want, buy one dedicated to that purpose.

I have no need whatsoever for an ignition start/stop camera to record everywhere I happen to drive. Besides, this has nothing to do with the purpose of this thread, which is aerial photography from RC planes! It seems this prime purpose, stated in the very first post in this thread everyone is asked to read before posting, has been lost. Sorry, but this has to be re-stated every couple of months when the thread posts start to get way off topice from the purpose of this thread, and this entire forum.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 07:40 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
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Speaking of the above...but keeping it in the R/C realm...

A feature I'd see someone invent for the #11,16 or #18 is a *simple* way to-
1/Power the camera from the flight pack and
2/Somehow be able to get it start/stop recording by using a HK switch using Ch5,6,7,8
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8833

That way once you are ready fly, you power up the plane which also powers up the CAM.
Then when ready to record, hit an Aux Channel to start recording.
After landing or the *crash* you can leave it recording for post the mortem until you stop recording by flicking the Aux Ch off.
*Or the recording is stopped by the crash!!*

I know there are already similar ideas floating around some in Tom's Keycam threads, but they are hard to find and complicated to boot.
I might have an try an honest go at creating something when I get the time, and my health improves.

-B!LL!
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 09:01 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Speaking of the above...but keeping it in the R/C realm...

A feature I'd see someone invent for the #11,16 or #18 is a *simple* way to-
1/Power the camera from the flight pack and
2/Somehow be able to get it start/stop recording by using a HK switch using Ch5,6,7,8
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8833

That way once you are ready fly, you power up the plane which also powers up the CAM.
Then when ready to record, hit an Aux Channel to start recording.
After landing or the *crash* you can leave it recording for post the mortem until you stop recording by flicking the Aux Ch off.
*Or the recording is stopped by the crash!!*

I know there are already similar ideas floating around some in Tom's Keycam threads, but they are hard to find and complicated to boot.
I might have an try an honest go at creating something when I get the time, and my health improves.

-B!LL!
Is your camera in an inaccessible place in your plane? I find it easy to just turn it on when I connect my flight lipo, turn it off manually when I land, and edit out the pieces I don't want.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 09:50 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
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but I like THESE camera's and these camera's have OTHER advantages.

insanely small inconspicuous size and shape no screen and CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP I can't AFFORD to put 4 or 5 good dedicated dvr's in my car. (about $120-$140 a pop minumum for anything that does not suck) closer to $200 for really decent reliable units. (if you want HD)

I CAN afford to put 4 or 5 of THESE in my car not to speak of having enough SPACE for that many (with these its easy) ESPECIALLY now that they have a model with the 120' lens (D Lens)

as to why? well #1 reason is I am a gadget geek and love pictures/video

#2 is protects me. if someone does something stupid I can defend myself with evidence. I have already had 2 "red light" tickets thrown out (both cases it was green the entire time not even yellow this was before they were required to have the LIGHT in the photo with your car)

and I have had several cops "reprimanded" by judges when they stopped me for NO REASON except their "hunch" and used the no seat belt or went over the line BS excuse.

but thats actually pretty minor. I drive 40,000 miles a year minimum you would be amazed what you "see" on the road sometimes and I can capture it with this since its "already running"

caught video of a guy running from the police he hit one of those concrete angled dividers and went airborne to about 7 feet (does that count as AV :-) hehehe it was before I got the HD unit but it was still neat to capture.

Its just fun and these cams would greatly increase that fun but there is 2 features you REALLY must have to make them useful.

#1 loop recording ie record in chunks (AVI so no gaps) and then eat your own tail looping over to record constantly.

#2 auto start stop. key on (power applied) start and begin recording key off power off camera stops recording.

at the MINIMUM you need power applied auto start. its ok if it "runs" after key off and kills the battery as long as key on again does not make it angry if its already running :-)

once you have those 2 features its "transparent" you never EVER have to touch it. EVER. it just "runs" and when something "interesting" happens you yank the sd card and download that clip.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 10:30 PM
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I guess you could just mount one on your head or hat and record your entire life, but when would you have the time to watch it (including the video taken of you watching it....)?
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 12:49 AM
Grrr :-)
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actually I plan to do exactly that.

I would "never" really watch the video.

I would simply delete it and restart the next day. the point would be if something "interesting" happens then I would review grab the interesting clip and delete the rest.

the idea would be to capture those spontaneous moments you can NEVER get the "camera" ready in time for. if the camera is always recording you simply need to "SEE" it and you "GOT IT" with such a rig.

figure a 2000mah battery should be enough and a 32gig card will give 10 hours.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 04:10 AM
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Wow, future historians will have some fun with the "artifacts" left by this generation. I think I heard the other day that the total amount of data held in the world is doubling every 2 years - frankly I'm surprised its that slow given the data created by HD video. Who will ever read/watch it, and how will they, even if they wanted to, given that each information storage technology seems to become obsolete every 5 years or so (try reading an 8" floppy disk or playing a 78rpm record) . Also, the problem with "interesting" is that historians may not realise that it is until many years later - imagine you had by accident taken some footage of a very young Marilyn Monroe. Best of luck! I won't be joining you.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Turnigy Keycam

I bought this keycam as an "oh well." addendum to anothe Hobby King order. So it got here with no instructions, of cuss.

Laid it aside since I had no idea of how to use it. So, low and behold, I find some generic instructions on this thread!

So, charged it up and doggoned if it doesn't work. Then the fun began in trying to insert the date & time. I messed with downloading apps & trying them, writing scrips & trying manual loads, ad infinitum.

Fjnally, I tried turning the cam "ON" before hooking it to the PC's USB port. All the instructions tell you NOT to do this.

Well, it worked! Maybe the instructions need to be changed. ??

Gonna hang the cam on one of my trainers and get some video of the flying field and surrounding area soon.

CR
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 03:48 PM
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As i understand the camera that´s sold by Hobby-king is a # 7.
So it´s not a # 11.
Check this out:http://www.chucklohr.com/808/

Best regards , Hasse
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 05:26 PM
Must not buy more planes!
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USA, KS, Wichita
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Cross-post: #16 vs #11.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 07:00 AM
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635 pages. Wow.
I tried going through the pages but it's just too many.
I need to know if the #11 camera can be modified to autostart recording and loop recording like other car cameras.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Choice777 View Post
635 pages. Wow.
I tried going through the pages but it's just too many.
I need to know if the #11 camera can be modified to autostart recording and loop recording like other car cameras.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3531
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choice777 View Post
635 pages. Wow.
I tried going through the pages but it's just too many.
I need to know if the #11 camera can be modified to autostart recording and loop recording like other car cameras.
It's been a long time since there have been any updates for the #11........

Autostart (pressing the power button will automatically start recording) only exists in the #16. Neither the #11 or the #18 have this functionality.

Loop recording can easily be set in the #16 and a separate firmware for loop recording is available for the #18. There is no loop recording firmware for the #11.

Autostart can be implemented by using external control circuitry and a hardware modification. Click here for a link to the most popular hardware hacks.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:12 PM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
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Joined Mar 2012
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Image is now off a bit...

My #11 hit the sidewalk a few days ago, bad mounting on my part.
The lens has seemingly rotated about 4-5 degrees to the right. This can be adjusted for by placing one thickness of foam tape beneath the right edge, about a quarter of the way into the center.

I'm assuming from looking at the pics of this camera taken apart at the topic beginning, that the lens can be rotated back to the left to correct this?

Maybe I should just lean it a bit to the left when mounting. I can just imagine my oh so delicate fingers and touch only making it worse.
Also it's not as if my flights are dead level most or even part of the time. I'm just more interested in knowing it can be fixed.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:39 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Originally Posted by BD Murdock View Post
My #11 hit the sidewalk a few days ago, bad mounting on my part.
Now the image leans to the left a bit, probably no more than 3-4 degrees below horizontal, to the left.

I'm assuming from looking at the pics of this camera taken apart at the topic beginning, that the lens can be rotated / twisted / screwed back to the right to correct this?

Maybe I should just lean it a bit to the right when mounting. I can just imagine my oh so delicate fingers and touch only making it worse.
If the camera still takes sharp pictures, you should only have to reposition the CMOS module to straighten it with the case and not have to touch the lens. It's screwed into the odule and usually fixed in place with a dab or two of glue. The module is a loose fit in the case and connected to the circuit board via a ribbon cable. The module is usually held in position centered on the hole in the case by either a dab of silicon or hot melt adhesive, or some double-sided foam tape. Should be an easy fix.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:54 PM
Quad guys are 4x the fun :)
BD Murdock's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If the camera still takes sharp pictures, you should only have to reposition the CMOS module to straighten it with the case and not have to touch the lens. It's screwed into the odule and usually fixed in place with a dab or two of glue. The module is a loose fit in the case and connected to the circuit board via a ribbon cable. The module is usually held in position centered on the hole in the case by either a dab of silicon or hot melt adhesive, or some double-sided foam tape. Should be an easy fix.
Thanks very much Tom, I do appreciate it.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 11:17 PM
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to do the time and date

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley38 View Post
I bought this keycam as an "oh well." addendum to anothe Hobby King order. So it got here with no instructions, of cuss.

Laid it aside since I had no idea of how to use it. So, low and behold, I find some generic instructions on this thread!

So, charged it up and doggoned if it doesn't work. Then the fun began in trying to insert the date & time. I messed with downloading apps & trying them, writing scrips & trying manual loads, ad infinitum.

Fjnally, I tried turning the cam "ON" before hooking it to the PC's USB port. All the instructions tell you NOT to do this.

Well, it worked! Maybe the instructions need to be changed. ??

Gonna hang the cam on one of my trainers and get some video of the flying field and surrounding area soon.

CR
i have 808 to and this update the time and date do the zip on it make sure the 808 to your computer http://www.software-schlosser.de/ind...808setclock_en ty have a good night
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 07:01 AM
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i have 808 to and this update the time and date do the zip on it make sure the 808 to your computer http://www.software-schlosser.de/ind...808setclock_en ty have a good night
This is a #11 thread. The program you linked will not update the time of the #11 / #18.

I wrote two different programs to update the date and time of the #11 over a year ago.
1. Nr11Timeset.exe. Original posting here.
2. Nr11AutoTimeset.exe. Original posting here.

These two programs should also update the date and time on the #18.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 03:35 PM
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I'm in need of help.
Why does my camera stop recording after 7min then I turn it on and it records for another 6min then turns off again...
What could be wrong Cam is 808#11 V2
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
I'm in need of help.
Why does my camera stop recording after 7min then I turn it on and it records for another 6min then turns off again...
What could be wrong Cam is 808#11 V2
I don't have a V2 but to me your problem can only be caused by two things: Either your battery is going downhill or your card is "problematic". Yes, I know this hasn't been discussed in this thread, but I have had similar problems with cards with a high speed rating. If your card is class 6 or above, it could well be a problem with your card. There was a lot of discussion about this on the #16 thread and I created a post with all the problematic cards listed. The problem with the #11 isn't the same, but it exists all the same. However, if the recording speed diminishes each time, I would suspect the battery. Maybe your cable is defective and the battery isn't charging properly. Does the red LED turn on indicating charging?
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Yes the red led goes on.
I have Adata 8GB class 10 card.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
Yes the red led goes on.
I have Adata 8GB class 10 card.
And does the red LED also go off after a certain time, indicating the battery is charged?

Class 4 is plenty for this camera. Try another card, even class 2 or less, and tell us your results. Adata is not a well known brand. Always use known brand names. Kingston (class 4) is one of the best for this camera, Transcend (class 4) is also good. Samsung and Sandisk are no longer to be trusted, at least with the #16.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 10:08 AM
Grrr :-)
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Joined Aug 2006
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adata is a well know brand. my experience is the memory is good but the casings can leave room for improvement (brittle plastic)

so far (fingers crossed) my 8gb (6) samsungs have worked flawlessly. I ran one through severl charge cycles and filled the card. no issues.

which is really really good since I get them for $4 a pop.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 10:40 AM
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can some one help me out i did time and date but still not right , it a 808 car keys miceo-camera .... i can have u on the phone and let u see what going on with this 808 camers on my laptop yes i say u get on my laptop with team viewer ....... ty have a nice sunday
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tisdale View Post
can some one help me out i did time and date but still not right , it a 808 car keys miceo-camera .... i can have u on the phone and let u see what going on with this 808 camers on my laptop yes i say u get on my laptop with team viewer ....... ty have a nice sunday
This thread is only for the #11 (see the title!).
If you don't know what your camera is please visit Chuck Lohr's site to identify your camera. If it is not a #11, then you want to post your queries in the Mega Keyfob thread.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by nerys View Post
adata is a well know brand. my experience is the memory is good but the casings can leave room for improvement (brittle plastic)

so far (fingers crossed) my 8gb (6) samsungs have worked flawlessly. I ran one through severl charge cycles and filled the card. no issues.

which is really really good since I get them for $4 a pop.
Adata may be a well known brand, but it is not a Major brand for microSD cards, IMO. I should have used better wording in my original posting, sorry.

My experience with some class 10 cards is that they do not work properly in the #11 and I experienced similar problems as the original poster. i.e. I only got about 7 minute recordings and then the camera turned off!

I have been using these cameras since they were released, and I can assure you they work much better with class 4 cards and lower. The problem is not the same as the #16, but the problem is still there, unless you have very old firmware installed. I have not done extensive testing because I don't have much interest in the #11 anymore, but I did do some comparisons to see how the same problematic cards performed in the both cameras. I also suspect the problem lies within the code (library) from the chip manufacturer linked in to the firmware. I know for fact that this is the root of the problem. The old library, which the old #11 firmware uses, does not have problems with fast cards. I don't have proof, but I suspect the newer firmware uses a more recent library. FWIW, I have no time or intention to analyze the code to evaluate which library is linked into which firmware!! Someone with loads of time on their hands can do this if they have nothing better to do.

I believe it is well worth the effort to try an old card with a class rating of 4 or lower to rule out the card as the problem.

In the interests of everyone, I hope robix07 posts what he found to be the cause.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 02:55 PM
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Yes the Led goes off after minute or two.
Tried Apacer 8GB class 2 card no luck same as Adata
Maybe this new software is bad or smth , I bought it with the software that removed time and date.
How can I reset to Old software?
Maybe I will help me?
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 05:29 PM
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can't recognize the card

My #11 Jumbo worked well until a couple of days ago, when it stopped to recognize the card. The camera can switch on and off, but it can't write on the card and when I connect the camera to the pc, the pc can't find the card.
The card works well (I used a card reader). I tried to format it, but it doesn't improve. I used another card, but I have the same problem.
Any ideas?
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 05:51 PM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
My #11 Jumbo worked well until a couple of days ago, when it stopped to recognize the card. The camera can switch on and off, but it can't write on the card and when I connect the camera to the pc, the pc can't find the card.
The card works well (I used a card reader). I tried to format it, but it doesn't improve. I used another card, but I have the same problem.
Any ideas?
Possibly a dirty, bent, or broken pin in the camera card holder?
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Possibly a dirty, bent, or broken pin in the camera card holder?
Possible, of course...
I can start cleaning the card holder. How I can check if it is broken?
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
Possible, of course...
I can start cleaning the card holder. How I can check if it is broken?
You might see a pin mechanical problem but looking into the card slot with a flashlight. It's possible to unsolder a couple of "legs" on the card holder and bend it open for a better look, but it's also possible for the minute card latch to spring loose doing this, never to be found again.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:58 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You might see a pin mechanical problem but looking into the card slot with a flashlight. It's possible to unsolder a couple of "legs" on the card holder and bend it open for a better look, but it's also possible for the minute card latch to spring loose doing this, never to be found again.
LOL, I seem to remember a post by a Mr Frank several years ago about losing a spring.....

Yabba,

Hi Tom
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:33 AM
Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
LOL, I seem to remember a post by a Mr Frank several years ago about losing a spring.....

Yabba,

Hi Tom
Hi Yabba... Yeah... changing a lens module is child's play compared to doing micro-surgery on a card holder pin or latch.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
Yes the Led goes off after minute or two.
Tried Apacer 8GB class 2 card no luck same as Adata
Maybe this new software is bad or smth , I bought it with the software that removed time and date.
How can I reset to Old software?
Maybe I will help me?
Too bad

That leaves the battery....

Unfortunately, it is not possible to tell which firmware version is installed in these cameras without soldering skills and a chip programmer.

Likewise, it is not possible to downgrade the firmware to an older version that the boot loader doesn't recognize. It's all to do with memory allocation.... I don't know which version you have installed but you can try installing different versions linked in post #2. Old versions here, New version here. They might work, they might not.

FWIW, and very technical, you cannot install an "old" boot loader over a new boot loader. This can only be done using an external programmer. The boot loader is responsible for updating the firmware. In the past I have experimented with various boot loaders and have found that if you try to install an incompatible firmware, it is ignored. I don't remember if I bricked a camera, but I don't think so. I always took a dump of the SPI so I could recover the contents if things went wrong. The boot loader occupies the first 16KB of the SPI dump, the rest is the firmware code.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Thanks for Reply!
But I don't understand my camera.
It wont install new firmware,I placed the .bin in the root directory of the card,placed it in camera turned it on and it just started like a normal,no changes and the led doesn't flash while recording :?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You might see a pin mechanical problem but looking into the card slot with a flashlight. It's possible to unsolder a couple of "legs" on the card holder and bend it open for a better look, but it's also possible for the minute card latch to spring loose doing this, never to be found again.

The card holder seems attached well on the circuit and the card seems ok. I tried to see inside the card holder... well, it is not easy to see something, even with a magnifying glass and a light.

I noticed another abnormality. Normally, without the card the light on the camera flashes slowly, while in this case the light remains on and nothing happens if I press the shutter key.
Does it mean anything for you?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
The card holder seems attached well on the circuit and the card seems ok. I tried to see inside the card holder... well, it is not easy to see something, even with a magnifying glass and a light.

I noticed another abnormality. Normally, without the card the light on the camera flashes slowly, while in this case the light remains on and nothing happens if I press the shutter key.
Does it mean anything for you?
It sounds like the camera is giving a false indiation that a flash card is inserted when it isn't. That's liklely the source of the problem, but finding what is causing it is virtually impossible. It could be an internal fault in a USB circuit component, not necessarily in the card holder.... probably not user repairable.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
Thanks for Reply!
But I don't understand my camera.
It wont install new firmware,I placed the .bin in the root directory of the card,placed it in camera turned it on and it just started like a normal,no changes and the led doesn't flash while recording :?
Then you are doing something wrong .

Try this.
1. Format your card fist.
2. Make sure the only file on the card is named FW96630A.BIN (old boot loader) or FWDVCH.BIN (new boot loader). The name must be all capital letters, especially if you are running Linux or Mac OSX.

Like I previously posted, you must use the correct file or the camera will ignore the update. I suspect you have copied the wrong file to the card.

I believe, but can't confirm, that FW96630A.BIN was used on the cameras with the 5-pin USB socket and FWDVCH.BIN is used on the latest cameras with the 8-pin USB socket. You can't interchange the two files, so do not rename them. You will surely brick your camera if you do.....
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
The card holder seems attached well on the circuit and the card seems ok. I tried to see inside the card holder... well, it is not easy to see something, even with a magnifying glass and a light.

I noticed another abnormality. Normally, without the card the light on the camera flashes slowly, while in this case the light remains on and nothing happens if I press the shutter key.
Does it mean anything for you?
As I read it, you camera doesn't function at all. It is not recognized by the PC and you can't record, but the yellow LED is always on (with or without a card inserted) when the power button is pressed.
If this assumption is correct, then there could well be a problem with the CMOS lens ribbon cable. Either there is a bad connection or one of the tiny wires in the ribbon cable is cracked.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ginetto View Post
The card holder seems attached well on the circuit and the card seems ok. I tried to see inside the card holder... well, it is not easy to see something, even with a magnifying glass and a light.

I noticed another abnormality. Normally, without the card the light on the camera flashes slowly, while in this case the light remains on and nothing happens if I press the shutter key.
Does it mean anything for you?
Please have a look at the two photographs below. At the rear of the card slot is a rudimentary switch that uses a thin strip of pressed steel. This should be flush with the outer metal shell when a card is NOT inserted.
Placing a card in the card slot pushes an internal terminal against the strip, signifiying to the camera that a card is inserted. If the strip is bent outwards, the switch can't work and the camera will not recognise a card.

Hope this helps, Richard
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 04:27 AM
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I format the card then put the firmware in disconnect from the usb, turn it on the light flashes,start to record and there is no flashing light
What's wrong with this camera?
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
I format the card then put the firmware in disconnect from the usb, turn it on the light flashes,start to record and there is no flashing light
What's wrong with this camera?
Update the firmware is a slow process ... it may take some minutes.

I thought I did brick mine ... but I was lucky ... and I got my #11 back alive

Read very very carefully the instructions (from Tom) ... also ... I may have done a post about it long time ago ... when I did almost brick mine.

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 04:58 AM
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I did it after Instructions that came with Firmware,but no result it's like it doesn't even care about that file.Or maybe I'm an idiot,and put the file in the wrong directory.
It looks like this C:/MYPC/Videocam/FWDVCH.bin
Is that the right place?
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by robix07 View Post
I did it after Instructions that came with Firmware,but no result it's like it doesn't even care about that file.Or maybe I'm an idiot,and put the file in the wrong directory.
It looks like this C:/MYPC/Videocam/FWDVCH.bin
Is that the right place?
You put the firmware file FWDVCH.BIN (ALL CAPITAL LETTERS, including the bin part) into you camera's root folder. It's best to first format the card, then you only have a root folder. I take it you are running a unix-based system because you show forward-slashes and not backslashes.

In Windows, the root folder is x:\ (or whatever drive letter your camera has been assigned)
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 06:09 AM
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Then it is correct,but it doesn't work.
I'm writing to my seller maybe he can replace my camera
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 03:37 AM
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Question: There are soo many variations out there, but I have a original camera (V1 or V2) .. does this one has somewhere a composite-out, too? like the new 808?
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyandi View Post
Question: There are soo many variations out there, but I have a original camera (V1 or V2) .. does this one has somewhere a composite-out, too? like the new 808?
V1 No.
With the V2 I believe the pin is connected to the processor but is disabled by firmware. I don't have a V2 to confirm this. The #11 was not designed for composite-out, hence the lower price.

And what new 808 are you talking about? The #18 is from the same developer as the #11 and has video-out.

The #16 is from a different developer and also has video-out. The #16 uses a standardized 5-pin mini-USB socket and is highly configurable whereas the #18 uses a non-standard mini-USB socket and is not configurable.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 10:40 AM
Just thumbing through...
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I believe the graphics processor IC in the V1 has composite video out capability, but it was not enabled by the developer. It's in the processor specs posted earlier, as I recall. Not supported by hardware or firmware.
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Ok thanks! I think have to get the #16 :-)

Cheap mini camera for my tiny FPV system :-)
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
I believe the graphics processor IC in the V1 has composite video out capability, but it was not enabled by the developer. It's in the processor specs posted earlier, as I recall. Not supported by hardware or firmware.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyandi View Post
Ok thanks! I think have to get the #16 :-)

Cheap mini camera for my tiny FPV system :-)
All three cameras, #11, #18 and #16 have the same processor. Unfortunately the video-out pin, which is situated underneath the processor, was left unconnected on the #11 V1. Hence it is impossible to connect to this pin without removing the processor.

I believe the circuit layout of the #11 is identical to that of the #18, although apparently there is some sort of dongle to prevent #18 firmware running on the #11 V2.

flyandi, that's a good choice, IMO
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Old Sep 01, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Has someone done a comparison review between #16 and #11?
I have seen one between #18 and #11.
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Last edited by iskess; Sep 02, 2012 at 02:01 AM.
Old Sep 02, 2012, 05:32 PM
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finster's Avatar
Michigan
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A comparison video between #11 and #16...youtube link here...
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 06:52 PM
safer on the ground
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wilts, United Kingdom
Joined Jul 2006
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I've just been to the west country motorhome & US RV show, the guy running the show wanted some aerial photos so I fixed my key cam on as well and took this video using my #11 key camera, after editing it on WLMM I saved it to computer at only 40mbpm but I'm still impressed with this camera,
a few years ago I had the #3 key cam but had quite a few problems with them, when the #11 came out I bought 4 #11s thinking I would be having the same sort of problems, that was at least 2 years ago and I'm still using the first out of the package, the other 3 cams I check the batteries from time to time, the one I'm using has had 100s of recharges and still going strong, last weekend I forgot to switch it off and it was still running after 45 minutes !! well pleased with the #11

Shepton Mallet Motorhome & US RV show, 07 09 2012 (6 min 26 sec)


ray
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finster View Post
A comparison video between #11 and #16...youtube link here...
As of yesterday it is no longer possible to compare video from the #11 or #18 to the #16.

The new #16 firmware allows individual tweaking of the colors and is fully plug-and-play. You can make the colors as saturated or washed-out as you want - within limits of course. The GUI provides 5 different slider controls for adjusting exposure, white balance, contrast, saturation and color options.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 01:44 PM
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I have been using the N011 for some months now on quads.
I get very smooth video and I am very pleased with mine.

I will get a N016 later but need other things first. More lipos are next on the list.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 02:14 PM
FPV in Hawaii
iskess's Avatar
United States, HI, Kailua
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What is a good anti-jello mount for these cams. I have slight jello from the cam taped to the nose of my Twinstar.
Velcro? Or does that make it worse?
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iskess View Post
What is a good anti-jello mount for these cams. I have slight jello from the cam taped to the nose of my Twinstar.
Velcro? Or does that make it worse?
It usually makes it worse, but there is no one mounting method that works for everyone. It's a vibration resonance issue, and different airframes have very different resonant vibration frequencies.

The best solution is to start by carefully balancing your prop. Then, shoot some video with the plane lightly held near it's CG, and step through a range of throttle settings while shouting out the stick position so it can be heard in the video. You should find a few settings that will minimize the vibration and still fly the plane. My TX throttle has a stepped spring, so I count the steps as I advance the throttle. Then later when flying, I can get the exact same throttle setting by feel (counting the steps).

I've had best results by taping the camera tightly to the Fuselage, with some thin foam rubber under it (compressed tightly with the tape). But the prop balancing has the greatest effect by mitigating the problem at the source.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 04:24 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
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Tom hit it. the best solution is to reduce the vibration to begin with.

the second best is MASS. you don't want the cam mounted "loose" you want it mounted tight. REALLY tight. the more mas you can "link" with the camera directly and physically the more energy it takes to "vibrate" it takes very little energy (relatively speaking) to vibrate the camera but a whole lot more energy to vibrate the "entire vehicle"

if you have a RESONANT vibration (ie where its not all the time only under specific conditions) then damping materials can help by altering the resonant frequency to be in a range that you won't operate it.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
As of yesterday it is no longer possible to compare video from the #11 or #18 to the #16.

The new #16 firmware allows individual tweaking of the colors and is fully plug-and-play. You can make the colors as saturated or washed-out as you want - within limits of course. The GUI provides 5 different slider controls for adjusting exposure, white balance, contrast, saturation and color options.
I checked out the new firmware for the #16 and I ended up right back at the standard default settings being the best...the only way to make video better was to add one click higher saturation...that puts it at the same coloring as the #11 or #18 which was my only complaint as the colors of the #16 looked a bit washed out...so far none of the other settings I tried looked natural...but im still working at it
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 11:39 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
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most of the other settings won't look natural as you found out the camera actually does a pretty good job.

BUT there are times where it might be useful. flying near twilight? might help to adjust the stop a bit. flying indoors under odd lighting might help to mess with the white balance etc..

thats exactly what I plan to do. leave it all stock but up the saturation one tick for a bit more color :-)
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 01:47 AM
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You can actually adjust all of these things with any reasonably competent video editor, so the #11 isn't dead yet. Me? I'm waiting for the #17 before I scrap my trusty #11.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:18 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard9999 View Post
You can actually adjust all of these things with any reasonably competent video editor, so the #11 isn't dead yet. Me? I'm waiting for the #17 before I scrap my trusty #11.
The main problem with the #11 is the color hunting. Maybe the #16 can be locked with the new firmware, then tweaked in edit.

Anyway, here's my #11 with HK Wing lens, yesterday

Estarter floats @TT (5 min 32 sec)
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finster View Post
I checked out the new firmware for the #16 and I ended up right back at the standard default settings being the best...the only way to make video better was to add one click higher saturation...that puts it at the same coloring as the #11 or #18 which was my only complaint as the colors of the #16 looked a bit washed out...so far none of the other settings I tried looked natural...but im still working at it
Only another 3124 combinations to go..... The Sepia setting is REALLY cool

The point I'm trying to make is that you have thousands of different configuration possibilities with the #16, and all you need to do to set them is to plug your camera into your PC. Everything is plug-and-play - the setup GUI (program) communicates directly with the #16 and sets the values that YOU want.

The #11 comes as it is. There are a handful of different firmware versions, but that's it. It appears that development of the #11 (and #18) has come to a halt, whereas the #16 has suddenly made a gigantic leap forwards.

I still have a few #11s. I loved them in their days, but I wouldn't buy them again today.

This post is mainly aimed at newcomers. You are lucky, you know both cameras.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:04 AM
FPV in Hawaii
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I mistakenly connected my new #11 USB to 12v and the magic smoke leaked out. Damn!
I think I can see the two fried components. The little black square near the USB plug have burn marks. Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347955183.955073.jpg
Views: 66
Size: 83.7 KB
Description: It powers us solid red, but thats all.
Should I throw it in the trash, or are there any useful parts in there?

Also, is it really a #11, or is it a. #18?
Look at the printing I found on the PCB. Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1347955353.106979.jpg
Views: 72
Size: 58.1 KB
Description: It says DV81- #18.

Thank you.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:48 AM
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lipo's....argh!

my #11 will only last around 4 mins after a charge (red light goes off when connected to usb) i have changed the lipo but has made hardly any difference

the lipo that i fitted was from another 808 that i had,

maybe this cell was also not able to hold a charge

is it possible to use the 1s 3.7v lipo This from my hobbyzone champ to power my #11?


many thanks
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Last edited by mudcow007; Sep 18, 2012 at 04:53 AM.
Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:08 AM
FPV in Hawaii
iskess's Avatar
United States, HI, Kailua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudcow007 View Post
lipo's....argh!

my #11 will only last around 4 mins after a charge (red light goes off when connected to usb) i have changed the lipo but has made hardly any difference

the lipo that i fitted was from another 808 that i had,

maybe this cell was also not able to hold a charge

is it possible to use the 1s 3.7v lipo This from my hobbyzone champ to power my #11?


many thanks
That battery will work but it has the wrong connector. You want one of those micro eflight type connectors. Also, it won't fit in the case, but I'm sure you planned on that.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iskess View Post
That battery will work but it has the wrong connector. You want one of those micro eflight type connectors. Also, it won't fit in the case, but I'm sure you planned on that.
fantastico!

i guessed as much for the connector an my camera is already "case-less"

i will give it ago tonight an see how long it lasts on that battery

thanks
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Hello all,

I originally purchased the #11 camera with the "fake" eject-able key on the left side of the case, not sure which model that one was but this forum was instrumental in choosing that camera. Purchased it from eletoponline365 and had good success with the camera for well over a year now. The thing is getting goofy and I need to replace it. I am using it for SCT racing with a front hood mounted position and the camera has provided great video with the fast movements of track racing. My question is should I stay with another #11 or move up to the #16 or #18 for fast on the ground video recording?

Also is there any one seller that the forum tends to use over others?

Thanks in advance
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:20 PM
Heli collector
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJS Racing View Post
Hello all,

I originally purchased the #11 camera with the "fake" eject-able key on the left side of the case, not sure which model that one was but this forum was instrumental in choosing that camera. Purchased it from eletoponline365 and had good success with the camera for well over a year now. The thing is getting goofy and I need to replace it. I am using it for SCT racing with a front hood mounted position and the camera has provided great video with the fast movements of track racing. My question is should I stay with another #11 or move up to the #16 or #18 for fast on the ground video recording?

Also is there any one seller that the forum tends to use over others?

Thanks in advance
I would move up to the #16,, using the same vendor..
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:36 PM
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United States, MI, Kalamazoo
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331 Posts
Ahoy! How do I get my 808 camera video on RC Groups? I have videos on my computer but can not figure out how to edit them and send them to RC Groups. This is my second day of trying and about to give up. Thanks, Capt'n Ron
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 04:52 PM
Registered User
Liverpool, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycaptain View Post
Ahoy! How do I get my 808 camera video on RC Groups? I have videos on my computer but can not figure out how to edit them and send them to RC Groups. This is my second day of trying and about to give up. Thanks, Capt'n Ron
Hi capt'n

i use photobucket.com

create an account (free)

upload your video to that site, copy the link an paste the link into your message on here

easy peasy
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycaptain View Post
Ahoy! How do I get my 808 camera video on RC Groups? I have videos on my computer but can not figure out how to edit them and send them to RC Groups. This is my second day of trying and about to give up. Thanks, Capt'n Ron
VIMEO.com is my preferred hosting site, because it keeps your original upload available for others to download for one week (if you toggle that permission)... very helpful if you are having problems to see your native file. You also just copy the link to your video from the Vimeo page and paste it in your post here to display it. VIMEO also will display the video at full 1280x720p resolution (use full screen with "scaling" button turned off). Limit is 500MB per week of files, only one of which can be 720PHD.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Sep 20, 2012 at 05:34 PM. Reason: spelling and video limit rev.
Old Sep 21, 2012, 04:54 AM
Must not buy more planes!
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USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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I put mine on YouTube and Vimeo both, generally. I prefer Vimeo but I do hit the 'one HiDef video per week' limit pretty often.

As far as editing goes, I use Adobe Premiere, but here's a post about other editing software you can use.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 10:17 AM
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United States, MI, Kalamazoo
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Thanks guys for the fast replies...I got the video uploaded to Vimeo, after a 5 hour upload for a 11 minute video. Copied the URL to RC Groups but said URL invalded. So back to the drawing board. Vimeo said my brower may need to be upgraded. But I'm all upgraded I believe. I'm using Windows 7 and I'm using the basic "free" Vimeo. Any thoughts? Thank you, Capt'n Ron
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 10:28 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycaptain View Post
Thanks guys for the fast replies...I got the video uploaded to Vimeo, after a 5 hour upload for a 11 minute video. Copied the URL to RC Groups but said URL invalded. So back to the drawing board. Vimeo said my brower may need to be upgraded. But I'm all upgraded I believe. I'm using Windows 7 and I'm using the basic "free" Vimeo. Any thoughts? Thank you, Capt'n Ron
Wow... 5hours to upload!???? What kind of internet service do you have?. That is ancient data speed with today's internet service providers. You must have some really bad line quality problems, a host of users on your network gobbling up the bandwidth, or there were problems at Vimeo's end.

I'd try another upload to Vimeo, and maybe one to YouTube or another hosting site to see what's up.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:03 AM
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United States, MI, Kalamazoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Wow... 5hours to upload!???? What kind of internet service do you have?. That is ancient data speed with today's internet service providers. You must have some really bad line quality problems, a host of users on your network gobbling up the bandwidth, or there were problems at Vimeo's end.

I'd try another upload to Vimeo, and maybe one to YouTube or another hosting site to see what's up.
I'm using a Samsung notebook connected to my Trendnet wireless wifi which is connected to my computer. Wife was using the computer at the time. Thanks again for the speedy reply, Capt'n Ron
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Last edited by mycaptain; Sep 21, 2012 at 04:33 PM.
Old Sep 23, 2012, 11:37 AM
safer on the ground
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wilts, United Kingdom
Joined Jul 2006
766 Posts
bit OT but out here in the sticks my Internet speed is only 660kbps, like Capt'n Ron my uploads takes hours if I try to upload the hd video from my key cam, you other guys are very lucky to have high speed, what I usually do is take the video from my #11 and use WLMM, edit it then save to my computer that way it's a lot smaller to upload
ray
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 11:49 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,476 Posts
11 minutes is too long for most viewing here on RCG. Keep it less than 3 minutes unless it has a need to be longer. With YouTube you can join small clips later if desired. I also save my file at 5mps for smaller files.

Here, you could take big files on a laptop to McDonald's or Starbucks for high speed internet.
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 04:07 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
438 Posts
download a program called "super"

http://www.erightsoft.com/SUPER.html (its a pain to get to the download link they make it annoying for some reason but its GOOD easy to use software)

set the following

1. avi
2. Xvid
3. mp3

next section I have MENCODER selected. not sure what the difference is this was already selected by default so I left it as such

VIDEO
set each box as follows left to right

NOTHING
NO CHANGE
16:9
29.97 (US)
912 (bitrate)
check high quality leave all esle alone

AUDIO

NOTHING
44100
1
96 (bitrate)
default

drop your files in the bottom box and click GO (ENCODE)

quality will still be very good (you can up the bitrate if you want more quality 2000kbps is MORE than enough for most of what we do and still 1/3 the file size of the original video)

these settings are "good enough" and will shrink the file to a little less than 1/7th its original size.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:57 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,476 Posts
Anyone know if the new #18 configurable firmware will work for a #11? The colors are said to be more stable.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:36 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Anyone know if the new #18 configurable firmware will work for a #11? The colors are said to be more stable.
#11 cameras will not load #18 FW now. So no, it will not work.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 10:40 PM
Crashomatic
CrashMeUp's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined May 2010
2,072 Posts
So I had an old #11 (v1) camera.
Recorded some stuff, then upgraded it to the latest #18 firmware, just by changing the #18 bin firmware name to the #11's firmware name, and following the regular upgrade procedure.

Works fine. Things I noticed on the #18 firmware (that is running on my #11 v1) (besides that you can now configure stuff):

- colors are a lot warmer (not necessarily a good thing, but its ok, they're also warmer on the real #18)
- audio is extremely low, even when set to "high"
- update: pictures in fact do work
- i didn't get any corruption when switching from dark to light background very fast, i suppose it was an issue from the #18 firmware bugs only

so if this is worth upgrading v1s? well, I guess so. the sound is usually the sound of the prop, so it's no big deal. the old fw works ok, but being able to set exposure and so on is nice. the color switching is also smoother on the #18 firmware, which I like. Oh yeah, and don't forget that you probably can't go back to the old fw
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Last edited by CrashMeUp; Oct 05, 2012 at 02:24 PM.
Old Oct 04, 2012, 10:46 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
So I had an old #11 (v1) camera.
Recorded some stuff, then upgraded it to the latest #18 firmware, just by changing the #18 bin firmware name to the #11's firmware name, and following the regular upgrade procedure.

Works fine. Things I noticed on the #18 firmware (that is running on my #11 v1) (besides that you can now configure stuff):

- colors are a lot warmer (not necessarily a good thing, but its ok, they're also warmer on the real #18)
- audio is extremely low, even when set to "high"
- pictures indeed don't seem to work.
- i didn't get any corruption when switching from dark to light background very fast, i suppose it was an issue from the #18 firmware bugs only

so if this is worth upgrading v1s? well, I guess so. the sound is usually the sound of the prop, so it's no big deal. the old fw works ok, but being able to set exposure and so on is nice. the color switching is also smoother on the #18 firmware, which I like. Oh yeah, and don't forget that you probably can't go back to the old fw
Interesting! I thought a new boot loader was necessary for the old #11's to be upgraded, but maybe all that did was change the name of the file to search for! It's not supposed to work for the newer #11's though, with some code added that can identify the camera as not being a #18.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:08 PM
Crashomatic
CrashMeUp's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined May 2010
2,072 Posts
I've compared the audio with my recording when it was running the #11 firmware, and with the #18 fw audio set to high, I think what i said is wrong. in fact the audio level is the same. I just didn't realize my mic wouldn't pickup sound as well as my newer real #18 would.

Probably because my #11 had a long life and got some glue on that mic at some point in the past

I'm wondering if its possible to downgrade to the old #11 just by changing the name of the #11 firmware to the name of the newer #18 firmware (ie, reverse operation). Since it works pretty well I fear the brick a little tho haha.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 08:30 AM
Registered User
Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Jan 2006
54 Posts
only 3 recordings

hi

i can only record 3 recordings who are about 6-10 minuttes log and after that when i will record it seems to turn it self off when recorded 3-4 minuttes . i hav a 16 gig memorycard onboard . any soloutions to this ?
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 08:36 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomin View Post
hi

i can only record 3 recordings who are about 6-10 minuttes log and after that when i will record it seems to turn it self off when recorded 3-4 minuttes . i hav a 16 gig memorycard onboard . any soloutions to this ?
If sounds like you have simply drained the internal battery and it needs to be recharged. For longer recording you need to use an external power source.
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 10:59 PM
AMA #903699
Tony_Fletcher's Avatar
USA, VA, Alexandria
Joined Mar 2008
924 Posts
Rocket Launch!

Hat Cam® Rocket Launch (1 min 56 sec)
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:17 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,178 Posts
Tony,
Are you saying it took two weeks to find the camera and rocket in those trees/bushes/plants/whatever they were?
Because as it coming down, I was thinking oh no, that does not look like a good place to land!
- B!LL!
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Old Oct 07, 2012, 11:25 PM
AMA #903699
Tony_Fletcher's Avatar
USA, VA, Alexandria
Joined Mar 2008
924 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fugitive_Bill View Post
Tony,
Are you saying it took two weeks to find the camera and rocket in those trees/bushes/plants/whatever they were?
Because as it coming down, I was thinking oh no, that does not look like a good place to land!
- B!LL!
We launched three rockets before the cam went up. All three traveled to the other side of the field. One landed on the roof of the school. I decided to cut a hole in my chute but I think that was a bad idea with the weight if the cam.

It ended up about 50 feet up, maybe 20 feet into the treeline. I went back the next day and after about three hours located the rocket. I went back every few days and yesterday I found it had had fallen to about 20 feet. After striking the branch with a few sticks I was able to knock it down.

Amazingly the #11 camera survived not just the launch but three rain storms!
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:11 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
438 Posts
wow cool. yeah tree's suck :-)
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:32 AM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,178 Posts
Yeah normally they jump out out in front of planes. Those ones used a different tactic and snuck up from belowthe rocket !
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:37 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
438 Posts
no they have their own "gravity field" a quantum singularity kind of deal that only rockets kites and planes respond too. they SUCK THEM right in and they are merciless.

oh and footballs sometimes respond too. no one knows why random quantum fluctuation thing or something.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 02:10 AM
Crashomatic
CrashMeUp's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined May 2010
2,072 Posts
I just wondered if anybody found a pin for video out on the #11 once converted to #18 ?
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 03:38 AM
Registered User
Austria
Joined Jan 2004
8,069 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
I just wondered if anybody found a pin for video out on the #11 once converted to #18 ?
Is this technically possible ?

Does the chip support it ?

This will be very interesting for justify the update of firmware from #11 type to #18 type

EDIT:

Looking at the chip it is looking like #18 and #11 share the same Novatek chip ... on mine I can't really ready the code on it .. I can just read Novatek.

These chips have no pin exposed ... so if the board has not be designed to read this pin, then this pin will not be available ...

I did notice 4 pins next to the chip near the edge of the board ... maybe you can check with a o-scope ... or connecting a video in signal for check if any of this 4 pin can be the video out.
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Last edited by e_lm_70; Oct 08, 2012 at 04:10 AM.
Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:02 AM
Crashomatic
CrashMeUp's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined May 2010
2,072 Posts
it seems to be the same hardware except for the 8pin usb chip, but, i'm talking #11 "v1" only.
i dont know which chip outputs the video, if its accessible at all externally either, so it might or might not be possible
some other pin the chip is looking at must prolly be set to 0 like on the #18 as well
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:33 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,616 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashMeUp View Post
it seems to be the same hardware except for the 8pin usb chip, but, i'm talking #11 "v1" only.
i dont know which chip outputs the video, if its accessible at all externally either, so it might or might not be possible
some other pin the chip is looking at must prolly be set to 0 like on the #18 as well
Terminology. There is no 8-pin USB chip on the circuit board, but I know you meant the 8-pin USB connector

The Novatek processor has a video-out contact. It is not a pin, so it is not exposed!
The contact is on the underside of the chip which means you can't access it unless you remove the chip itself. Removing the chip is easy with a hot-air gun, but I would say impossible for someone without professional equipment to solder it back in place. So if you try it, you will destroy your #11 - at least the chances are 99.99999..% So, V1=absolutely impossible.

According to the developer, there is some sort of dongle that prevents an upgrade of an 8-pin USB #11 to a #18. Chances that you will brick your camera are fairly high if you try this. Apparently the "dongle" was implemented because people were buying the cheaper #11 and then upgrading to #18 and asking for free cables.

A previous post mentioned changing the firmware file names. Before you consider doing this, I can assure you that the #11 V1 bootloader is completely different than the #18 bootloader, even the size of the code is completely different.....

If you use the wrong bootloader, the address space of the firmware data and code will be incorrectly indexed meaning your camera will be bricked! Just a friendly warning.....

[EDIT] I don't have a #18, but I suspect the contacts next to the processor are RS232 contacts used for debugging purposes. [/EDIT]
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Last edited by Isoprop; Oct 08, 2012 at 04:44 AM.
Old Oct 08, 2012, 08:09 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,083 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
no they have their own "gravity field" a quantum singularity kind of deal that only rockets kites and planes respond too. they SUCK THEM right in and they are merciless.

oh and footballs sometimes respond too. no one knows why random quantum fluctuation thing or something.
I think Edsel Murphy has a law explaining all the above occurrences
Mike
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