Originally Posted by timetec

Hi everyone - It's been a good while since I last posted, so I thought I'd share a mod that will eliminate the annoying 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts, as the battery starts to run down on your #11 camera. This issue was addressed of course with the launch of the #16, but to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, still remains a problem with #11.

As a bonus to this relatively simple fix, your battery life should be extended by around 15% (in tests), adding 6 minutes or so to your current recording time using a good 250mAh LiPo cell
The cause of these sound and video issues centres around the stock 3.3V voltage regulator fitted on the front (USB socket side) of the PCB. The IC is a 5-pin SOT-25 device marked 4A2* - the * is the batch code and will be a letter such as B D or C etc. The regulator fitted is a TOREX XC6204332 - datasheet HERE

Technical stuff :

There are two major problems with this factory fitted regulator : 1/ It has a maximum current rating of 150ma, but typically the device has to deliver over 100ma continuously and subsequently gets hot, wasting precious power. 2/ It has a high dropout voltage of 200mv (0.2V) rising to over 300mv at 100ma - this has a marked effect on the available recording time of the camera.

The replacement, a Texas Instruments TPS73633DBVT - datasheet HERE has a rated output current of 400ma, limited at 800ma. As a result it runs cool, disipating very little power.
In contrast, the dropout voltage of the TI regulator is specified at 75mv. However in practise it's much lower than this - I measured a miniscule dropout of just 26mv with a 100ma load.
The NMOS output stage and clever high frequency 4Mhz charge-pump make it a very efficient, low noise and reliable replacement for the original regulator.

I can't recommend this modification highly enough and at a cost of around 65 pence / $1 excluding shipping, makes it a very worthwhile and satifying mod. You may even be able to get a free sample from the TI website.
Yes, the regulator can be a bit fiddly to swap out if you're not used to handling surface mount devices, but after disconnecting the battery you can wrap the whole PCB in tin foil, neatly cutting out a small square hole where the regulator is. This will prevent solder splashes getting onto the PCB, as well as acting as a perfect anti-static sheild for the board. By far the easiest way to remove the IC, is to surround it in flux paste and heat the plastic package directly until the solder on all five legs melts. It can then be gently lifted off the board with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

You will notice from the TOREX datasheet that pin 4 is not used - NC (no connection), while the TI device uses this pin for a noise reduction capacitor (NR).
It appears that the the camera manufacturers decided to fit a 10nf capacitor to the PCB to cover all eventualities when sourcing 'equivalent' components.
If required, the value of this capacitor, circled in yellow on the third photo, can be increased in value from 10nf to 100nf to acheive a noise level of below 30 microvolts using the TI device specified here.

Have fun - Richard

Although I've completely moved over to the #16 league, I still have a few old #11s which I use.

I get real pleasure from reading your hardware hacks and want to thank you for your excellent, well written, articles. Last year one of my #11s started acting up when the ambient temperature rose above 32°C (90°F), so replacing the regulator may help a bit, we'll see.

You have done some really great detective work, and so well explained. Thank you so much.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

...
I get real pleasure from reading your hardware hacks and want to thank you for your excellent, well written, articles.
...
You have done some really great detective work, and so well explained. Thank you so much.

And deserving of immortalization in the Frankencam "Hacks" post. - DONE!

Originally Posted by empeabee

First Standard Answer is to ask you to download and try the Freeware VLC media viewer - It is known to display most files on most machines, even when the local OS provided programs don't.
let us know how this gets on with your files straight off the camera, and on the ouput of your editor(s). - short sample videos help a lot in diagnosise.
Mike

Thanks Mike
I downloaded VLC and it played my #11 files just fine. So does Windows Movie Maker.
Problem is when I try to save them, they all seem to be corrupted.
I've tried converting them to all sorts of formats with the same results.
I will try it on another PC.

Brett.

Originally Posted by brett.c

Thanks Mike
I downloaded VLC and it played my #11 files just fine. So does Windows Movie Maker.
Problem is when I try to save them, they all seem to be corrupted.
I've tried converting them to all sorts of formats with the same results.
I will try it on another PC.

Brett.

Just to make sure we are "reading the same page", I think you are saying that the display for files READ DIRECTLY FROM THE CAMERA is OK, but if you copy a file from the camera to your hard drive, then the file becomes corrupted.
Is that correct, or am I reading too much into what you have written?
( the symptoms are, to say the least, very strange).
Let us know how using another computer works...
Mike

Is it possible to charge the keychain cameras (#11, #11 jumbo, #16 and #18) using a USB wall charger?
There are USB wall chargers, but I am not use if I can use them for my cameras.

Originally Posted by ginetto

Is it possible to charge the keychain cameras (#11, #11 jumbo, #16 and #18) using a USB wall charger?
There are USB wall chargers, but I am not use if I can use them for my cameras.

A charger is a charger. The camera needs aprox 0.3 Amps to Charge the battery, and another 0.3A to run the camera for when you need to record and charge at the same time. So you need 0.7Amps out put (say 1.0A to be on the safe side).
The output of the USB socket should be 5volts, and the input should be 'correct for your mains power'
thats all you need to know.
Mike

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Although I've completely moved over to the #16 league, I still have a few old #11s which I use.

I get real pleasure from reading your hardware hacks and want to thank you for your excellent, well written, articles. Last year one of my #11s started acting up when the ambient temperature rose above 32°C (90°F), so replacing the regulator may help a bit, we'll see.

You have done some really great detective work, and so well explained. Thank you so much.

Thanks for the comments Iso - much appreciated and of course to Tom for adding it to the 'Frankencams' list of mods.

As a footnote, a 400mah cell LiPo cell will give an impressive 1hr 40mins of recording time once the regulator is exchanged for the TI device.

Richard

Originally Posted by empeabee

A charger is a charger. The camera needs aprox 0.3 Amps to Charge the battery, and another 0.3A to run the camera for when you need to record and charge at the same time. So you need 0.7Amps out put (say 1.0A to be on the safe side).
The output of the USB socket should be 5volts, and the input should be 'correct for your mains power'
thats all you need to know.
Mike

So... Something like that should be perfect?
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Two-Pin...er+wall+europe

I need only to use the "charging cable" given with my camera and that is all, right?
Can I use it for #11, #11 jumbo, #16 and #18?

Originally Posted by ginetto

So... Something like that should be perfect?
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Two-Pin...er+wall+europe

I need only to use the "charging cable" given with my camera and that is all, right?
Can I use it for #11, #11 jumbo, #16 and #18?

Should do the job.
and should work with most anything that can be charged from USB.
or even just powered from USB.
(The USB spec says no more than 1A from any USB port. I see there are some USB chargers which give 2Amps which is out of specification. but will work.

Originally Posted by empeabee

Should do the job.
and should work with most anything that can be charged from USB.
or even just powered from USB.
(The USB spec says no more than 1A from any USB port. I see there are some USB chargers which give 2Amps which is out of specification. but will work.

Can I buy an adapter that exceeds 1A?
But, I must not exceed +5V, right?

For example, I am looking for an adapter with multiple USB like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...%20EM090729296
The output is 5V but 2A... I cannot understand if each USB has 5V and 2A or all together.

Do I have to use the standard USB cable given with the cameras?

Im having a problem with my camera. It was working fine then after taking some videos it wont turn on. It seems to charge fine and the battery is holding around 4 volts. When I try to turn it on the yellow LED shines for about a second then turns off. The PC wont recognize it when connected. I have connected another battery which works and the same thing happens. If I connect it to the car charger the LED turns red and when I try to power it on the light turns yellow for a second then turns off.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Originally Posted by empeabee

Just to make sure we are "reading the same page", I think you are saying that the display for files READ DIRECTLY FROM THE CAMERA is OK, but if you copy a file from the camera to your hard drive, then the file becomes corrupted.

Hiya

If I play directly from the camera or drag and drop a file onto my desktop it will play with quicktime, VLC, WLMM or MP4camAVI. It will not play properly with WMP.
I cannot save from any of these editors without some corruption. Usually pixelated lines though them and colour variations.

I have had some success with avidemux being able to convert files to AVI.
It seems to have varying quality depending on the video format selected. Mpeg-4 ASP being the best so far.
Can anyone give me some tips in selecting the best settings in avidemux.

At least I am beginning to make some progress now, so thanks for the help so far, much appreciated

Originally Posted by ginetto

Can I buy an adapter that exceeds 1A?
But, I must not exceed +5V, right?

For example, I am looking for an adapter with multiple USB like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...%20EM090729296
The output is 5V but 2A... I cannot understand if each USB has 5V and 2A or all together.

Do I have to use the standard USB cable given with the cameras?

Horrible isn't it - Elecktrickery.
It's one of those things that are easy, but only if you know how...

the Voltage is the pressure of the electricity.
the Current is the amount of electricity.

The USB port on you computer has 2 power wires (and 2 signal wires for data). The Voltage is specified as 5 volts and never varies (not quite true, but as near enough for this explanation).

Inside the camera is the battery - it is always quoted as a 3.7Volt battery, but in fact it varies from 4.2 Volts when fully charged, to 3.0volts when fully discarged.
In the camera is a charge circuit (or chip) which takes the 5Volts from the USB socket and reduces it to charge the battery.

The battery is a 240 mAh battery - that is :- it will provide 240 mAmps for 1 hour. The Camera uses about 300 mAmps, so the battery can run the camera for about 40 mins from fully charged to fully dischaged.

The charger chip in the camera will control the charge rate to something less than 300 mAmps (it is what the battery needs, trying to fast charge the battery reduces the number of times it can be dischaged).

Some wall chargers conform to the USB standard of supplying no more than 1 Amp (1000 mAmps), others will supply upto 2Amps ( but only IF it is asked to ).

When the camera is recording, it needs 300 mAmps (0.3Amps), and this extra power comes from the charger IF it is connected.

So a 1amp USB charger is fine for this camera.
But other devices could ask for up to 2 Amps and the 1 Amp charger would just refuse to do this.

Remember that a charger of this type only provides the current asked for by the charger chip inside the device, it never pushes the 2Amps, it just has 2 amps available for use if asked for.

does that help?

normal USB cable is fine, the signal wires are left unconnected and they do nothing.

Mike

Originally Posted by empeabee

does that help?

Mike

It does. You was very clear.
Thanks!!

Originally Posted by empeabee

Horrible isn't it - Elecktrickery.
It's one of those things that are easy, but only if you know how...

the Voltage is the pressure of the electricity.
the Current is the amount of electricity.

The USB port on you computer has 2 power wires (and 2 signal wires for data). The Voltage is specified as 5 volts and never varies (not quite true, but as near enough for this explanation).

Inside the camera is the battery - it is always quoted as a 3.7Volt battery, but in fact it varies from 4.2 Volts when fully charged, to 3.0volts when fully discarged.
In the camera is a charge circuit (or chip) which takes the 5Volts from the USB socket and reduces it to charge the battery.

The battery is a 240 mAh battery - that is :- it will provide 240 mAmps for 1 hour. The Camera uses about 300 mAmps, so the battery can run the camera for about 40 mins from fully charged to fully dischaged.

The charger chip in the camera will control the charge rate to something less than 300 mAmps (it is what the battery needs, trying to fast charge the battery reduces the number of times it can be dischaged).

Some wall chargers conform to the USB standard of supplying no more than 1 Amp (1000 mAmps), others will supply upto 2Amps ( but only IF it is asked to ).

When the camera is recording, it needs 300 mAmps (0.3Amps), and this extra power comes from the charger IF it is connected.

So a 1amp USB charger is fine for this camera.
But other devices could ask for up to 2 Amps and the 1 Amp charger would just refuse to do this.

Remember that a charger of this type only provides the current asked for by the charger chip inside the device, it never pushes the 2Amps, it just has 2 amps available for use if asked for.

does that help?

normal USB cable is fine, the signal wires are left unconnected and they do nothing.

Mike

Hallo SuperMike,
I had some questions to ask.
1)Can you tell me how can I find the version number #-- of the car keychain camera? where is it written? its not written on the box and leaflet.
2)Is it necessary that the firmwareupdate of the #11 should go to the #11 version camera only?
3)My camera does not record while charging. Even if I start recording and then attach the usb, it stops recording.
Does this feature comes through firmware update?
4)I have found out that my camera gives 600mb of file for 30minutes of video in low light conditions, and gives more than 1gb file for 30minutes during day light. so much difference. Is this normal?
5)Can the 'data size:video' ratio be controlled, so that I can record more video on the memory card?

Thank you very much.
talk to you soon.

Do all the 808 cameras use the same battery? The batteries swappable from #3 to any other 808 camera? even if means cutting the wires and connecting them..

Originally Posted by Kenton

Hallo SuperMike,

Knowing Amps from Volts doesn't make me Super

I had some questions to ask.
1)Can you tell me how can I find the version number #-- of the car keychain camera? where is it written? its not written on the box and leaflet.

there are a least a dozen people more qualified than me to answer this one

2)Is it necessary that the firmwareupdate of the #11 should go to the #11 version camera only?

yes, but there are a least a dozen people more qualified than me to answer this one

3)My camera does not record while charging. Even if I start recording and then attach the usb, it stops recording.

A quick read of postings #2 to #5 at the beginning of this thread would help you

Does this feature comes through firmware update?
4)I have found out that my camera gives 600mb of file for 30minutes of video in low light conditions, and gives more than 1gb file for 30minutes during day light. so much difference. Is this normal?
5)Can the 'data size:video' ratio be controlled, so that I can record more video on the memory card?

Thank you very much.
talk to you soon.

The internal battery only lasts for aprox 40 mins.
The data rate is fixed by the developer, but varies with the amount of detail and/or movement.
There are many more knowledgable members here to better answer those questions.

Mike (feeling flattered).

I bought four #11 cameras from eletech086. The first one looks a normal #11, while the other three seem #18 cameras.
In fact, the mini-plug on the camera looks like the one normally present on #18. In the picture below, I compare the #11 (top), the camera I bought from eletech086 (middle) and a #18 (bottom).
http://i48.tinypic.com/11rybzt.jpg

Even the battery is connected like #18. See the picture:
http://i49.tinypic.com/97lgqx.jpg

The seller insists they are #11...
What do you think? Are they #18 or a new version of #11?

Originally Posted by ginetto

I bought four #11 cameras from eletech086. The first one looks a normal #11, while the other three seem #18 cameras.
In fact, the mini-plug on the camera looks like the one normally present on #18. In the picture below, I compare the #11 (top), the camera I bought from eletech086 (middle) and a #18 (bottom).
http://i48.tinypic.com/11rybzt.jpg

Even the battery is connected like #18. See the picture:
http://i49.tinypic.com/97lgqx.jpg

The seller insists they are #11...
What do you think? Are they #18 or a new version of #11?

here is my take on what you have - ( please don't quote me ).
Chuck identified the #11 when it first came out.
The developer then 'improved' it (video out) and decided to call it a #18 without contacting Chuck - this cause a bit of 'muttering in beards' and then suddenly it seems the developers decided to call it the improved #11. and the designation #18 sort of slipped out of use.
I could be wrong, it it may be my beard that is being muttered into
Mike
(Highly reflective undies ON.)

Originally Posted by empeabee

here is my take on what you have - ( please don't quote me ).
Chuck identified the #11 when it first came out.
The developer then 'improved' it (video out) and decided to call it a #18 without contacting Chuck - this cause a bit of 'muttering in beards' and then suddenly it seems the developers decided to call it the improved #11. and the designation #18 sort of slipped out of use.
I could be wrong, it it may be my beard that is being muttered into
Mike
(Highly reflective undies ON.)

Not quite the full story. The #18 and the latest #11 are now idential circuit boards. That was not the case initially, but both could initially run the same firmware. The #11, though, did not have the special 8 pin USB plug and mating cable.video out cable, so did not have that functionally. If you read back through this thread you'll see discussion of how to convert the #18 to a #11 (why would any one want to do that!?), and to convert the #11 to run #18 FW (but without the video out functionality). Then for whatever reason (probably to minimize production costs), the #11 circuit board was changed to be identical to the #18, but it was sold with #11 firmware and without the video out cable. Then, some clever cheapskates got the idea to order a #11 and a #18, then contact the seller and claim they did not get the #18 video out cables with the order, and asked for the cables to be sent. In short, it was a scam to get two #18 cameras for the price of one #11 and one #18 (what some people will do to save a few dollars!) So, the developer added some kind of camera detection that would prevent the #18 FW from running in a #11 camera. So now you have a #11 and a #18, both with virtually the same circuit board, but unable to run each other's firmware. Both are still being sold.

I'm not making this up... this was relayed to me by my vendor contact, as best as I can recall the sequence of events.

FWIW, if anyone bothers to read the first posts here anymore, I mention the new #11 cameras have an 8 pin USB plug!

Thanks Tom. Beard duly clipped
Mike

Originally Posted by empeabee

Thanks Tom. Beard duly clipped
Mike

It looks rather sporty!

Hi.
I spent my holidays in Sardegna, Italy.
So I tried both my cameras, Panasonic FZ 150 and the keychain # 11 version.
I bought it last year. I made a little video for all you, if you want to see it.
It isn't aerial video, but in this sample I use only little # 11.
I think is very very good, not very far from professional quality of the Panasonic.
The only problem I had was the horizon, often not perfectly horizontal. It needs a micro bubble level on top.

sardegna 2012 microcam # 11 (10 min 2 sec)

It needs a micro bubble level on top.

Or a simple viewfinder? - a rectangle made from wire or cardboard and velcroed or double-sided taped to the top of the camera and adjusted using the webcam function? This would certainly look different to the usual camcorder!

Originally Posted by richard9999

Or a simple viewfinder? - a rectangle made from wire or cardboard and velcroed or double-sided taped to the top of the camera and adjusted using the webcam function? This would certainly look different to the usual camcorder!

But I need a correct horizon when shot with camera near the ground, so a viewfinder becomes useless.

Post content removed !

Originally Posted by chrispaiva

My first shoot with HD Keychain #16

http://youtu.be/lU2OVgi4CMc

Thanks, but this is # 11 thread..

Originally Posted by bulbsrtw

Thanks, but this is # 11 thread..

Humm sorry, sent it to the wrong place, how can I delete the post ?

Originally Posted by chrispaiva

Humm sorry, sent it to the wrong place, how can I delete the post ?

Just EDIT the post, & replace all the text with a short apology
Mike

Originally Posted by chrispaiva

Humm sorry, sent it to the wrong place, how can I delete the post ?

.
Don't worry about it.
It is NO BIG DEAL!

Does this seem legit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180777341972...ht_4204wt_1163

Originally Posted by Stigern

Does this seem legit?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180777341972...ht_4204wt_1163

That's a legitimate #16 with car charger. You can get it for $38 without charger. Check the #16 thread and see the strengths/weaknesses.

The #11, this thread, is a bit cheaper at $32 or less. I like mine.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=84495149470

victapilot: Oh, thanks.

Seems like I'm getting me a #16 =)

This is #11 cam with wide angle lens. Some folks say the colors are not natural, but looks ok for me.

Rascal C (2 min 56 sec)

Originally Posted by victapilot

This is #11 cam with wide angle lens. Some folks saythe colors are not natural, but looks ok for me .

HI vic,

I've always preferred the Fuji Film look of the #11.

I tried doing some post editting (ala Tom) to tone down the colors but I found that, 1, it was too much trouble and,2, I liked the original colors better anyway.

Take care,
Yabba,
although I may have to get one of the wide angle lenses one of these days.

Originally Posted by Yabba

HI vic,

I've always preferred the Fuji Film look of the #11.

I tried doing some post editting (ala Tom) to tone down the colors but I found that, 1, it was too much trouble and,2, I liked the original colors better anyway.

Take care,
Yabba,
although I may have to get one of the wide angle lenses one of these days.

Hi Yabba,

Good to hear from you, if I knew you were watchng I'd put banjo music on it

Here's another from today, dobro music. The first and final few seconds with a Kodak ZxD which is still better imo, but I couldn't put it on the wing of this little guy

regards, vic

e-Starter CF Landing Gear (2 min 45 sec)

Originally Posted by victapilot

Hi Yabba,

Good to hear from you, if I knew you were watchng I'd put banjo music on it

Here's another from today, dobro music. The first and final few seconds with a Kodak ZxD which is still better imo, but I couldn't put it on the wing of this little guy

regards, vic

Nice landing, posing for the camera like that.

Pretty place to fly, looks like a GREAT place to fly. You even have intersecting runways. And GREEN !!! Must be nice, we are in the middle of our annual "drought". They keep talking about the monsoons are supposed to start soon. HA! A 15 minute rainstorm followed by 2 or 3 more days of...."drought". I spent a lifetime one year, many years ago, in Vietnam. Now when they say monsoon, they MEAN monsoon

Too bad we don't live closer. Except for that damn banjo music you and I would probably have become OFB's.

Take care and keep posting.

Y.

Hey Vic, Is that the new camera with the 120 degree lens that just came out? Thanks Jay

Originally Posted by pecor

Hey Vic, Is that the new camera with the 120 degree lens that just came out? Thanks Jay

Jay, no but I think the #11 120deg Jumbo is better! Here's what I have

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=8296

Hi,

I read Isoprop's post #2093 and fashioned myself a special charging cable using 2 core wire and the pin-out described. I've used 2 rel 2 firmwares for my #11, 20min and 70min from post #3531.

When I tested recording with the cable plugged into my computer the camera successfully stop/saved/continued to fill the 16GB SD card. When I plug it into any of my battery based USB chargers, similar to those used in Isoprop's post, with the same special cable the camera will stop recording at the end of the first file (as it would with a standard USB cable!)

I've tried it several times and I've measured the charger voltages and they are pretty much exactly the same as the computer, about 5V. My main USB power supply is rated at 5000Mah and 5V 1A output.

Does anyone have any idea why this could be happening as I'm completely stumped. The camera is definitely charging as it will record as many times as I like as long as I start it manually.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I just got word the (new V2) #11 is now being sold in the Jumbo case design with a 120 deg. wide angle lens integral to the camera.

I do not have the camera, so can offer no more information other than what you can read in this eBay web page.

All 120deg Jumbos on Ebay I found lacks AVout.
But here is the one with AVout: http://www.htinter.com/full-hd-120%C...k-no_p236.html

It has a AVOUT cable and the description states that it can do AVOUT when recording.
Anyone can confirm this? Looks like the best candidate for FPV for me among all keykams.

Originally Posted by dehicka

All 120deg Jumbos on Ebay I found lacks AVout.
But here is the one with AVout: http://www.htinter.com/full-hd-120%C...k-no_p236.html

It has a AVOUT cable and the description states that it can do AVOUT when recording.
Anyone can confirm this? Looks like the best candidate for FPV for me among all keykams.

The link you showed in my quoted post was still for a #11 camera, none of which have video-out. The same developer sells a video-out version of the #11, dubbed #18, all of which have video-out. The first #18's had a smaller case like the old 808 keychain style cameras, but a mm or two thicker and no wide angle lens. This new link of yours looks to be a new version of the #18 in a #11 jumbo case with a wide angle lens. The #11 and #18 circuitry are virtually identical, except for a trace or two to utilize the video-out function of the GPU (present, but not implemented in the #11). The link you provided is the source for both #11 and #18 cameras used by the verified eBay vendors of these two cameras.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Not quite the full story. The #18 and the latest #11 are now idential circuit boards. That was not the case initially, but both could initially run the same firmware. The #11, though, did not have the special 8 pin USB plug and mating cable.video out cable, so did not have that functionally. If you read back through this thread you'll see discussion of how to convert the #18 to a #11 (why would any one want to do that!?), and to convert the #11 to run #18 FW (but without the video out functionality). Then for whatever reason (probably to minimize production costs), the #11 circuit board was changed to be identical to the #18, but it was sold with #11 firmware and without the video out cable. Then, some clever cheapskates got the idea to order a #11 and a #18, then contact the seller and claim they did not get the #18 video out cables with the order, and asked for the cables to be sent. In short, it was a scam to get two #18 cameras for the price of one #11 and one #18 (what some people will do to save a few dollars!) So, the developer added some kind of camera detection that would prevent the #18 FW from running in a #11 camera. So now you have a #11 and a #18, both with virtually the same circuit board, but unable to run each other's firmware. Both are still being sold.

I'm not making this up... this was relayed to me by my vendor contact, as best as I can recall the sequence of events.

FWIW, if anyone bothers to read the first posts here anymore, I mention the new #11 cameras have an 8 pin USB plug!

In conclusion, the new #11 and #18 are identical apart a sort of block that prevents to the #18 FW from running in a #11 camera. Right?
How can I understand if it is the new #11 or #18? Can I try to install the #18 FW? Do I risk to ruin the camera?
Is it possible to overcome the block and install the #18 FW? Is it convenient?

Sorry for my numerous questions!

Originally Posted by ginetto

In conclusion, the new #11 and #18 are identical apart a sort of block that prevents to the #18 FW from running in a #11 camera. Right?
How can I understand if it is the new #11 or #18? Can I try to install the #18 FW? Do I risk to ruin the camera?
Is it possible to overcome the block and install the #18 FW? Is it convenient?

Sorry for my numerous questions!

Yes, they are (or were) mechanically identical at the beginning... able to swap firmware.

No way to tell now other than by seeing if it has video out capability after you get one.

My understanding is the FW will no longer load... just gets blocked, but I've not tried it. I have no idea if the block is defeatable, and would not report it here if I did. It was put in because of the reason you are asking about... people wanting to save a few $$ by buyibg a #11 and flashing in the #18 FW and trying to get a free video out cable also.

If you want video out, buy the one that comes with it and the proper cable. it's not that much more expensive.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Yes, they are (or were) mechanically identical at the beginning... able to swap firmware.

No way to tell now other than by seeing if it has video out capability after you get one.

My understanding is the FW will no longer load... just gets blocked, but I've not tried it. I have no idea if the block is defeatable, and would not report it here if I did. It was put in because of the reason you are asking about... people wanting to save a few $$ by buyibg a #11 and flashing in the #18 FW and trying to get a free video out cable also.

If you want video out, buy the one that comes with it and the proper cable. it's not that much more expensive.

Indeed, I am not interested in the AV output. I bought 3 cameras and I am wondering if they are #11 or #18, and in the case they are the new version of #11, if it is better to install the #11 FW or try to install the #18 FW.
In reality, at the beginning, when I received the first camera and I thought it was #18, I installed the #18 FW. I had some problems which I solved in part and I am still working on them. Installing a wrong FW could be an explanation for these problems.

Originally Posted by ginetto

Indeed, I am not interested in the AV output. I bought 3 cameras and I am wondering if they are #11 or #18, and in the case they are the new version of #11, if it is better to install the #11 FW or try to install the #18 FW.
In reality, at the beginning, when I received the first camera and I thought it was #18, I installed the #18 FW. I had some problems which I solved in part and I am still working on them. Installing a wrong FW could be an explanation for these problems.

If you ordered a #18, it should have come with the video out cable... simple as that. It can only use #18 FW. A #11 should have only come with a USB data cable.

It's possible your seller sent the wrong one or wrong cable with the right one... who knows. I'd take this up with the seller.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

If you ordered a #18, it should have come with the video out cable... simple as that. It can only use #18 FW. A #11 should have only come with a USB data cable.

It's possible your seller sent the wrong one or wrong cable with the right one... who knows. I'd take this up with the seller.

Ok. In conclusion, they should be this new version of #11.
Is what you call "New V2 #11"? So the FW is this one:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9323
right?

I want to be sure. In post #2, you used v1, v2 and v3. I think they indicate something different, isn't it? Different circuits of #11?

Originally Posted by ginetto

Ok. In conclusion, they should be this new version of #11.
Is what you call "New V2 #11"? So the FW is this one:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9323
right?

I want to be sure. In post #2, you used v1, v2 and v3. I think they indicate something different, isn't it? Different circuits of #11?

OK, the version numbers are confusing, even to me because I stopped trying to support this camera when they revised the miniUSB plug and came out with the circuit board that was identical to the #18

In post #2 I was referring to different revisions to the circuit board, all of which still had the CMOS ribbon cable soldered to the board and the original standard miniUSB plug.

V2 #11 camera has the smaller non-standard 8 pin minUSB plug, and that's what the FW is relating to... camera version, not circuit board revisions. So if you have the one with that smaller 8 pin non-standard plug (and no video out cable), then you have the V2 #11 and should only use the V2 #11 FW in it.

Sorry for the confusion, but what's done is done. I've opted out of further support since I don't have the camera, and only posted the V2 camera FW because the developer ask me to do it.

I will now slink back into the shadows...

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

OK, the version numbers are confusing, even to me because I stopped trying to support this camera when they revised the miniUSB plug and came out with the circuit board that was identical to the #18

In post #2 I was referring to different revisions to the circuit board, all of which still had the CMOS ribbon cable soldered to the board and the original standard miniUSB plug.

V2 #11 camera has the smaller non-standard 8 pin minUSB plug, and that's what the FW is relating to... camera version, not circuit board revisions. So if you have the one with that smaller 8 pin non-standard plug (and no video out cable), then you have the V2 #11 and should only use the V2 #11 FW in it.

Sorry for the confusion, but what's done is done. I've opted out of further support since I don't have the camera, and only posted the V2 camera FW because the developer ask me to do it.

I will now slink back into the shadows...

Ok. It was quite clear, but I wished to be sure 100% before installing the FW.

...and I installed it and it seems to work properly.
The only thing is that I found a discrepancy in the instruction to install the FW.
At the point 3), I left the camera on and I plugged into the PC, but nothing happened. I needed to switch off and on the camera with the USB cable on in order to make the PC recognize the camera as an external HD.
The led light flashed again, as the FW was loaded again, but at the end everything seemed to work well.
Maybe this can help other users.

Originally Posted by ginetto

In reality, at the beginning, when I received the first camera and I thought it was #18, I installed the #18 FW. I had some problems which I solved in part and I am still working on them. Installing a wrong FW could be an explanation for these problems.

Well, one of the problems I have not resolved yet is how to edit a video recorded with this camera.
The video is in AVI and can be played with no problems.
I can open and play it with avidemux 2.5, but I cannot easily move the cursor up and down to find the points when I want to cut the video. Even if I can do that and I save the video, the output has problems (it doesn't contain the video or it is corrupted).

Originally Posted by ginetto

Well, one of the problems I have not resolved yet is how to edit a video recorded with this camera.
The video is in AVI and can be played with no problems.
I can open and play it with avidemux 2.5, but I cannot easily move the cursor up and down to find the points when I want to cut the video. Even if I can do that and I save the video, the output has problems (it doesn't contain the video or it is corrupted).

Read the editing FAQs on this... post #3 or #4

Hi people,

I used my V2 #11 to record a sample video and check if everything works.
The video shows some noise, a brighter zone on the right which increases over the time. The video is 40min, but I selected some clips to show you.

Noise (0 min 29 sec)

I specified the video was recorded with V2 #11, but I met the same problem with a #11 jumbo some time ago.
A possible explanation for this artifact? Is it possible to avoid/reduce that?

Ginetto, looks like glare/lens flare to me. Try on a subject with good lighting.

Here's my modded cam going for a ride on my Bird of Time. The orange covering seems to force color changes when the sky comes into view. Wish they had one with manual white balance.

BOT with Exilim (2 min 53 sec)

Originally Posted by victapilot

Ginetto, looks like glare/lens flare to me. Try on a subject with good lighting.

Here's my modded cam going for a ride on my Bird of Time. The orange covering seems to force color changes when the sky comes into view. Wish they had one with manual white balance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN-I9rl0U5k

Don't click on the link.

It may contain "Banjo Music" It doesn't infect your computer but you'll be tapping your toes and humming the tune for the rest of the evening.

Originally Posted by victapilot

Ginetto, looks like glare/lens flare to me. Try on a subject with good lighting.

Here's my modded cam going for a ride on my Bird of Time. The orange covering seems to force color changes when the sky comes into view. Wish they had one with manual white balance.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QN-I9rl0U5k

More light helps for sure. Anyway, I used another #11 on the same subject and with the same light and I didn't have this problem.
What is the cause of this artifact? What do you think?

your video looks good. Adjustments of while balance seem quite normal to me.

Originally Posted by victapilot

Ginetto, looks like glare/lens flare to me. Try on a subject with good lighting.

Here's my modded cam going for a ride on my Bird of Time. The orange covering seems to force color changes when the sky comes into view. Wish they had one with manual white balance.

The **n*o music took my mind off the colour changes
Thanks Mike

Mike, Yabba, thanks - you guys crack me up!! I admit, I'm a bluegrass addict, dragging my wife every weekend to jams or free concerts. She's now crossed over to the tolerance zone. I have picked up some CDs from local bands, so am well armed for more videos...

I sent that video to a few non RC buddies, amazing questions "was that out of the window of a plane you were in?" or "how many engines does that plane have?".

Ginetto, I played your video on Vimeo, andI think the noise is due to compression of the low light areas. It seems normal, just avoid large areas of shade.

Finally had some decent weather and calm winds at the harbor this morning. Flew about 30 minutes! Of course had to edit it way down for the video. Put in about 8 packs. Towards the end an offshore breeze developed and had to struggle a bit to get it back over land, but it did well. Kinda scared me lol as I'd hate to get stuck out over the water and no be able to get back in. Was a great morning and flew the E500 too still trying to get it trimmed right. Getting close. Weather holds more over the water flights coming. This was just a test of my nerves. Heli and cam (808 HD #11) did really nicely today. Anyway Video is in in HD (720p) and best viewed in YouTube. Feel free to stop by our public Big Lama Facebook page at at http://www.facebook.com/ESkyBigLamaPage

Big Lama over water flight, Morro Bay harbor south (7 min 56 sec)

Hey guys,

I am having a difficult time trying to figure out who on eBay I should get one of these current fob cams from. Is it still the #11?


Rob

Originally Posted by tomcatguy74

Hey guys,

I am having a difficult time trying to figure out who on eBay I should get one of these current fob cams from. Is it still the #11?


Rob

Check out the #16

Originally Posted by tomcatguy74

Hey guys,

I am having a difficult time trying to figure out who on eBay I should get one of these current fob cams from. Is it still the #11?


Rob

This seller is ok

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=89654218644

For #11's, I have nothing but good to say about my experience with this vendor.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/hxelepro360/m.html

I ditto mclarkson on hxelepro. Bought several. The video I posted above is one of them.

Hi can anyone tell me if my 808 is a #11 please?





the chips on the board dont match any on the "chuck Lohr" site that i can see, but the closest match i have found is the #11

thanks

i bought it off a ebay seller called internet-shop365

heres a snap shot from a very muggy day

Originally Posted by mudcow007

Hi can anyone tell me if my 808 is a #11 please?
......
the chips on the board dont match any on the "chuck Lohr" site that i can see, but the closest match i have found is the #11

thanks

i bought it off a ebay seller called internet-shop365

.....

Your pictures are too fuzzy for my eyes, but compare them with the pictures posted in post #2.

Since the lens is soldered, if it is a #11, it is an old version.
Another tell-tale is the size and names of the files. I don't have access to my old #11s at the moment so I can't tell you how the files are named, but if you would post the file names it would be helpful. Can you set the date and time using Nr11Timeset.exe?

Is the output file H264 (1280x720)?

The component layout resembles that on my #11.

the files are labeled PTDCxxxx.MOV or .jpg

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Your pictures are too fuzzy for my eyes, but compare them with the pictures posted in post #2.

Since the lens is soldered, if it is a #11, it is an old version.
Another tell-tale is the size and names of the files. I don't have access to my old #11s at the moment so I can't tell you how the files are named, but if you would post the file names it would be helpful. Can you set the date and time using Nr11Timeset.exe?

Is the output file H264 (1280x720)?

Originally Posted by Sparky Paul

The component layout resembles that on my #11.

the files are labeled PTDCxxxx.MOV or .jpg

Thanks guys yeah the output file is 1280x720 so im guessing its a #11

anyone ever powered their camera from their flight battery?

im currently flying a hobbyzone champ with a 500Mah battery so should have enough juice for both plane an cam

currently the cam turns off after a few mins an doesnt record what it was recording before powering off (v annoying!!)

Hi people,

I'm using Ubuntu 11.10 and it seems it can't mount my 808 #11 for reading. Here what dmesg says:

[ 8864.821268] sd 11:0:0:0: [sdc] Sense Key : Medium Error [current]
[ 8864.821277] sd 11:0:0:0: [sdc] Add. Sense: Unrecovered read error
[ 8864.821285] sd 11:0:0:0: [sdc] CDB: Read(10): 28 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 00
[ 8864.821302] end_request: critical target error, dev sdc, sector 0
[ 8864.828386] sd 11:0:0:0: [sdc] Unhandled sense code
[ 8864.828392] sd 11:0:0:0: [sdc] Result: hostbyte=invalid driverbyte=DRIVER_SENSE

Under Windows, the cam works without problems.

Any ideas?

Hi .
Last sunday I tried my # 11 full charged .
Tied it on top of my son's hat and record a first person adventure in the nature.
But only 33' of video was recorded, and the last 15min was a sequence of buzzing sound.
I tried (at home)a new record with a 600 mAh LIpo battery connect to usb plug using special cable. Manually stopped the record after about 40 mins.. and all video sequence was a buzzing dance.
I don't understand why..
I'll try a new internal battery.. I'm very disappointed, I love video quality of this cam and I'm afraid it is dying .
P.S.
Sorry for my poor english

Originally Posted by bulbsrtw

Hi .
Last sunday I tried my # 11 full charged .
Tied it on top of my son's hat and record a first person adventure in the nature.
But only 33' of video was recorded, and the last 15min was a sequence of buzzing sound.
I tried (at home)a new record with a 600 mAh LIpo battery connect to usb plug using special cable. Manually stopped the record after about 40 mins.. and all video sequence was a buzzing dance.
I don't understand why..
I'll try a new internal battery.. I'm very disappointed, I love video quality of this cam and I'm afraid it is dying .
P.S.
Sorry for my poor english

1. It sounds as if your battery is dying, but 15 mins. of buzzing seems a bit too long to me, so maybe the regulating circuitry is breaking up. Replacing the battery will tell the true story.

2. The USB requires 5V +/- 5% max., but I very much doubt your LiPo can supply a constant voltage of 5V under load. If you use external USB power you should use specially designed USB battery packs.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

1. It sounds as if your battery is dying, but 15 mins. of buzzing seems a bit too long to me, so maybe the regulating circuitry is breaking up. Replacing the battery will tell the true story.

2. The USB requires 5V +/- 5% max., but I very much doubt your LiPo can supply a constant voltage of 5V under load. If you use external USB power you should use specially designed USB battery packs.

Many thanks, Isoprop.
What do you think about a parallel connection with 2 lipos (the internal + one ext.) ?
Can I use a jst plug for ext battery, so for just few minutes records the internal lipo is enought, and for long time records plug the second battery ? It's dangerous ?
I have noticed during record the cam is very warm, I don't remember this few months ago..

Originally Posted by bulbsrtw

Many thanks, Isoprop.
What do you think about a parallel connection with 2 lipos (the internal + one ext.) ?
Can I use a jst plug for ext battery, so for just few minutes records the internal lipo is enought, and for long time records plug the second battery ? It's dangerous ?
I have noticed during record the cam is very warm, I don't remember this few months ago..

Parallel LiPos is a very bad idea! In the worst case you could blow up your #16's battery. There have been long discussions about this. Just don't take the risk.

If you know what you are doing, then an external LiPo in place (instead) of the internal LiPo is acceptable as long as your external LiPo includes the protection circuitry included in all #16 batteries.

If you are unsure or inexperienced with handling LiPos, then external USB power is the easiest (no need to open the camera) and safest method, especially when weight is not a problem. Very small external USB batteries (about the size of 4 AA cells) can supply power for over 10 hours of continuous recording.

It is normal that the camera becomes very warm during recording.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

If you know what you are doing, then an external LiPo in place (instead) of the internal LiPo is acceptable as long as your external LiPo includes the protection circuitry included in all #16 batteries.

FWIW I don't use the protection circuit on my external lipos, but make sure to remove them after use and recharge to storage voltage. The #7 that I modified actually had a bad protection circuit, clamped to allow no current. I can power it from one cell of a lipo pack via the balance port or use the old lipo sans pc.

Just changed the battery, new record now is 28 mins; from 21 start buzzing.

Here's my idea. What about a microswitch to esclude manually internal lipo, and connect an ext battery ?
Look at my picture.

Originally Posted by victapilot

FWIW I don't use the protection circuit on my external lipos, but make sure to remove them after use and recharge to storage voltage. The #7 that I modified actually had a bad protection circuit, clamped to allow no current. I can power it from one cell of a lipo pack via the balance port or use the old lipo sans pc.

The #11, at least the old model, relies in the protection circuit for charging with the "special" cable!!! It is the ONLY circuitry that controls the charging.

If you know what you are doing, you can obviously get away with virtually anything.

However, if you don't understand that LiPos mustn't be allowed to drain below a certain voltage and current must be limited while charging and a whole lot of other factors must be respected, then don't even think about connecting external LiPos without a protection circuit.

Obviously you know what you are doing and don't connect USB power while your external battery is connected - I dread to think what could happen if you did!

Another disadvantage is the RTC will be reset each time you disconnect the battery so your files, and possibly your video, will be incorrectly time-stamped. You would, therefore, have to set the date and time each time you recharge your battery. This may be acceptable for some people, but for me the whole process would be far too inconvenient.

Originally Posted by bulbsrtw

Just changed the battery, new record now is 28 mins; from 21 start buzzing.

Here's my idea. What about a microswitch to esclude manually internal lipo, and connect an ext battery ?
Look at my picture.

Remember these cameras were designed to be powered by external USB power (5V). They were not designed to be run using an external LiPo in place of the standard LiPo. The whole charging circuitry would have to be redesigned, which I doubt would be feasible in so little space. And remember the RTC will be reset every time you disconnect the battery (see my previous post).

I'm sure you battery will give longer recording times once it has gone thru a few more charging cycles - as long as it is new.

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Remember these cameras were designed to be powered by external USB power (5V). They were not designed to be run using an external LiPo in place of the standard LiPo. The whole charging circuitry would have to be redesigned, which I doubt would be feasible in so little space. And remember the RTC will be reset every time you disconnect the battery (see my previous post).

I'm sure you battery will give longer recording times once it has gone thru a few more charging cycles - as long as it is new.

I don't understand difference from original 250mAh lipo and a 600mAh ext. one.
With my project I can use a bigger lipo, but I charge it with a dedicate charger, not with internal circuitry. When I switch from one to other battery, I'm not sure the RCT will be reset, because the disconnection time (I think) is very very short...or not ?

Originally Posted by bulbsrtw

I don't understand difference from original 250mAh lipo and a 600mAh ext. one.
With my project I can use a bigger lipo, but I charge it with a dedicate charger, not with internal circuitry. When I switch from one to other battery, I'm not sure the RCT will be reset, because the disconnection time (I think) is very very short...or not ?

Assuming your 600mAh battery has the protection circuitry, which it must have if you ever connect the USB plug or the battery runs low, the large battery will take a lot longer to charge. If you use a dedicated charger, then that's fine - much better . Just don't let the external battery discharge too much if it doesn't have that circuitry built in.

The RTC will reset immediately it loses power. I doubt there are any large capacitors on board that will hold the power for more than a millisecond or two without a battery connected. I would expect a switch like you showed will disconnect the internal battery for at least 100ms, most probably longer, but it would also depend on how quickly you make the connection. These are just assumptions based on experience. Someone would have to try your switch idea first, but even if it worked, I would think it's still a hit-or-miss deal if the RTC resets or the camera's firmware may even "hang". But go ahead, prove me wrong

I would get the buzzing and fixed image when downloading some files.
But looking at the memory card directly on the computer, the scenes were there intact.
It was probably a bad connection in the USB cable.

Hi,

I flushed this firmware:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9323
And I want the led off when recording.
Is it possible to configure it somehow? Is it possible to restore the original firmware for V2?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Isoprop

The #11, at least the old model, relies in the protection circuit for charging with the "special" cable!!! It is the ONLY circuitry that controls the charging.

If you know what you are doing, you can obviously get away with virtually anything.

However, if you don't understand that LiPos mustn't be allowed to drain below a certain voltage and current must be limited while charging and a whole lot of other factors must be respected, then don't even think about connecting external LiPos without a protection circuit.

Obviously you know what you are doing and don't connect USB power while your external battery is connected - I dread to think what could happen if you did!

Another disadvantage is the RTC will be reset each time you disconnect the battery so your files, and possibly your video, will be incorrectly time-stamped. You would, therefore, have to set the date and time each time you recharge your battery. This may be acceptable for some people, but for me the whole process would be far too inconvenient.

I agree, should never connect the camera via USB with the external non protected battery connected. I charge the external battery externally with a smart charger. I believe this is an advantage because I control the rate, as well as final voltage, and maximize battery life. However the main external power I use is via a tap on the balance port of the flight battery.

If file date is important, I put an approximate time/date time.txt file on the root of the card, and it sets the time when the cam is connected to the battery. I don't think the switch would work, but never tried.

There's a very low risk of running the external battery too low because the cam will shut down at 3.6v. leaving only the clock running. I never leave the cam connected to external supply anyway.

Here's some more #11 with HK Wing 120deg lens

Fokker D-VII with landing (3 min 45 sec)

Is there an Android app to play the .mov files. I'd like to be able to throw the sd card into my phone and review video.
Thx

Originally Posted by jriley1974

Is there an Android app to play the .mov files. I'd like to be able to throw the sd card into my phone and review video.
Thx

Dunno, but if you find one let me know!
I use the car GPS screen to review videos.

MX player works.

yeah any third party player "should" handle the files fine. when I get a chance I will try mobo player on my S2.

MX did work, thx!

Originally Posted by timetec

Hi everyone - It's been a good while since I last posted, so I thought I'd share a mod that will eliminate the annoying 'buzzing' sound and/or video artifacts, as the battery starts to run down on your #11 camera. This issue was addressed of course with the launch of the #16, but to the best of my knowledge at the time of posting, still remains a problem with #11.

As a bonus to this relatively simple fix, your battery life should be extended by around 15% (in tests), adding 6 minutes or so to your current recording time using a good 250mAh LiPo cell
The cause of these sound and video issues centres around the stock 3.3V voltage regulator fitted on the front (USB socket side) of the PCB. The IC is a 5-pin SOT-25 device marked 4A2* - the * is the batch code and will be a letter such as B D or C etc. The regulator fitted is a TOREX XC6204332 - datasheet HERE

Technical stuff :

There are two major problems with this factory fitted regulator : 1/ It has a maximum current rating of 150ma, but typically the device has to deliver over 100ma continuously and subsequently gets hot, wasting precious power. 2/ It has a high dropout voltage of 200mv (0.2V) rising to over 300mv at 100ma - this has a marked effect on the available recording time of the camera.

The replacement, a Texas Instruments TPS73633DBVT - datasheet HERE has a rated output current of 400ma, limited at 800ma. As a result it runs cool, disipating very little power.
In contrast, the dropout voltage of the TI regulator is specified at 75mv. However in practise it's much lower than this - I measured a miniscule dropout of just 26mv with a 100ma load.
The NMOS output stage and clever high frequency 4Mhz charge-pump make it a very efficient, low noise and reliable replacement for the original regulator.

I can't recommend this modification highly enough and at a cost of around 65 pence / $1 excluding shipping, makes it a very worthwhile and satifying mod. You may even be able to get a free sample from the TI website.
Yes, the regulator can be a bit fiddly to swap out if you're not used to handling surface mount devices, but after disconnecting the battery you can wrap the whole PCB in tin foil, neatly cutting out a small square hole where the regulator is. This will prevent solder splashes getting onto the PCB, as well as acting as a perfect anti-static sheild for the board. By far the easiest way to remove the IC, is to surround it in flux paste and heat the plastic package directly until the solder on all five legs melts. It can then be gently lifted off the board with a pair of fine-tipped tweezers.

You will notice from the TOREX datasheet that pin 4 is not used - NC (no connection), while the TI device uses this pin for a noise reduction capacitor (NR).
It appears that the the camera manufacturers decided to fit a 10nf capacitor to the PCB to cover all eventualities when sourcing 'equivalent' components.
If required, the value of this capacitor, circled in yellow on the third photo, can be increased in value from 10nf to 100nf to acheive a noise level of below 30 microvolts using the TI device specified here.

Have fun - Richard

I tried it on bricked cam, but it was VERY HARD. Too hard for me. With two pairs of glasses on my nose I see a microscopic component, and solder seems a TREE.
The legs don't melt, and there isn' t space for twezers. When solder melts, and component lift, I see a brown hole inside of leg place. I don't know if you understand me, if yes please suggest me something else. Thanks.

Originally Posted by jriley1974

Is there an Android app to play the .mov files. I'd like to be able to throw the sd card into my phone and review video.
Thx

I play them on my Galaxy Tab 10.1 with MX Player, maybe you have to install aditional codecs for your phone to play the videos.

Ups...I saw the replies late

I wasn't sure where to post this, but thought you guys might appreciate this video. We took an ActionCam, made a special mount, and mounted the camera to a Disc Golf Disc (similar to a Frisbee) The video came out amazingly well.

A Disc's Life (2 min 23 sec)

Enjoy!

Vince
PED Products
www.ped-products.com

Very cool.

So the fin behind the camera prevents spinning? Cool indeed!

Ok! So my #11 is like two years old and the batt needs replacing. Whos got a 1s 250 around thats any good ? Stateside?
Tom

Originally Posted by victapilot

Here's some more #11 with HK Wing 120deg lens

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu5UCEdn7-Y

Here's a short clip from my D-VII.

Fokker 1 (1 min 7 sec)

I have a longer clip, but am having problems with the FFDshow codec on 64-bit windows 7 and can't process it yet.

what a freaking great idea !! I CAN NOT BELIEVE I never thought to stick one on a frisbee. Time to go hit the dollar store for some frisbee's !!

That frisbee idea is terriffic. You should do some with some catches, as well.

Originally Posted by ApexAero

Ok! So my #11 is like two years old and the batt needs replacing. Whos got a 1s 250 around thats any good ? Stateside?
Tom

I too need batteries. My normal supplier on eBay no longer carries the old ones that have to be soldered in place. Anyone know where to nab some new batteries?

Maybe this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Internal-Lip...item231a741c57

Thanks guy! What I did in the mean time was get a female lead from the hobby shop, cut out the old batt, make a notch for the lead to hang out, solder on and attach a eflite CX batt w/Velcro to the side for a hat cam. 160ma ought to get a few 4-5 min flights for Doppler speed checks etc! Works like a charm and best of all is, no more beep beep beep on the vid! Seems as the vid quality has improved vastly too! I forgot how good these were!

I used the latest firmware update, but I can only find the MOV version. Where are the other versions?

greetings...

man if we could get firmware that would auto start stop with outside power (ie start engine on stop engine off) and loop record with avi for no "gap"

this would be "THE" killer CAR DVR especially with the D lens. they are so cheap and tiny you could run TWO so you get tight and wide shots.