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Originally Posted by dghutt

I recalled that someone on the main 808 Keyfob thread had tried installing a new lipo cell in the cam. A quick search turned-up the post:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2928

Bottom-line was that a single 240mah cell did not fit well in the case. My guess is that the 808HD is not going to have substantially more space in there.

There are lots of other posts in that thread about adding a port to the side of the case to run it off an external battery. My sense with the 808HD, though, is that it'd be way easier to either use the accessory AA power thing or build your own JST to USB adapter (with + on Pin4 per the research in this thread) to use an external pack on the cam's existing port.

I agree... the HD key cam already has a 250 mAh battery on board, and using the old 808 external power hacks is NOT advised because the HD key cam circuity is totally different, including the battery charge/LVC circuits.

The car charger that comes with the camera could also be adapted to other battery/power supply sources by cutting the cord and adding a 2 pin connector (red wire + and black wire ground). We know +5V supply to the camera is normal from the PC USB port and the dedicated car charger.

We don't yet know what voltage the new dedicated external single AA battery charger boosted output voltage is... maybe the camera will function through the emergency charger cord on less than +5V... perhaps even a single cell lipo?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I agree... the HD key cam already has a 250 mAh battery on board, and using the old 808 external power hacks is NOT advised because the HD key cam circuity is totally different, including the battery charge/LVC circuits.

The car charger that comes with the camera could also be adapted to other battery/power supply sources by cutting the cord and adding a 2 pin connector (red wire + and black wire ground). We know +5V supply to the camera is normal from the PC USB port and the dedicated car charger.

We don't yet know what voltage the new dedicated external single AA battery charger boosted output voltage is... maybe the camera will function through the emergency charger cord on less than +5V... perhaps even a single cell lipo?

Yes, thanks guys. Actually, I saw that thread on the 808 battery upgrade, which came referenced from Chuck's site. He wrote:

LIPO BATTERY MODULES (battery + protection circuit).
Any replacement battery module must have a protection circuit.
Make sure it will fit your camera. Length includes the protection circuit.
My #2 camera 382030 (3.8mm thick x 20mm x 30mm) barely fits.
My #3 camera 402030 (4.0mm thick x 20mm x 30mm) barely fits and 4.5mm does not fit (I added 0.5mm, 4 thicknesses of 20lb paper).
Any battery module over 4.0mm thick will probably not fit.
● 402025 with protection circuit, claims 150 mAh. Smaller than a 402030. eBay 220544906965.
● 402030. Claims 120 mAh. You must reuse your protection circuit. ALLeRC.com.
● This replacement LiPo 240 mAh battery has has been reported to work and fit: HobbyCity. Recycle the little circuit under the tape. This report says that the 240 mAh battery at 5.5 mm thick does not fit in the case.
● Here is a Pair of 200 mAh LiPo batteries on eBay that might fit. These batteries are 4.5mm thick so they won't fit the #3 camera.
● Rotozuk says that this ??? mAh LiPo battery fits.
● How to wire an external RC servo Battery and an external AA battery pack.
● http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=220685092050

Anyway, the big take home I got here was that a battery was 20mm x 30mm and anything over 4mm thick would not fit in the case. I think I found one website that says the whole keychain cam is only 30mm x 50mm x 10mm, and of course it tapers so one side isn't even a full 30mm wide.
Eletoponline posts pictures in the ebay ad of the insides of the case, and you can see the battery. It is a model AM-402030P rated at 250mah (supposedly). Coincidentally, the 402030 model number actually hints at the size = 4.0mm x 20mm x 30mm.

I found a battery of 440mah that has a model number of 652530. Although this may be 2.5mm too thick for the case (about the thickness of a dime), I'm really attracted to the idea of 440mah over 250mah if the case could be slightly modified to accommodate the larger battery. It should at least give a solid hour of recording time, which may be all my 8GB card can handle anyway. At least, I would prefer some type of mod to the case than having the emergency charger hanging off the back side. Just thinking about it, not sure how that mod would work/look, but for me it would be more ideal than the AA emergency battery charger (although 2200mah is really cool and I'd be curious to know how long that lasts).

Originally Posted by Fred79

...
I found a battery of 440mah that has a model number of 652530. Although this may be 2.5mm too thick for the case (about the thickness of a dime), I'm really attracted to the idea of 440mah over 250mah if the case could be slightly modified to accommodate the larger battery. It should at least give a solid hour of recording time, which may be all my 8GB card can handle anyway. At least, I would prefer some type of mod to the case than having the emergency charger hanging off the back side. Just thinking about it, not sure how that mod would work/look, but for me it would be more ideal than the AA emergency battery charger (although 2200mah is really cool and I'd be curious to know how long that lasts).

If you look at the picture, you can see the stock battery just barely fits in all directions. So you'd have to leave off the entire upper half of the case with your 65x25x30 battery, and tape or heat shrink the battey to the circuit board. Considering how small a 2000 mAh AA cell is compared to a 2000 mAh lipo, I'd go for the compact dedicated external charger with the stock battery. It would be more compact and probably light as well, plusthe cameras guts are better protected in it's case.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Considering how small a 2000 mAh AA cell is compared to a 2000 mAh lipo, I'd go for the compact dedicated external charger with the stock battery. It would be more compact and probably light as well, plusthe cameras guts are better protected in it's case.

I hear that, and it is quite tempting... You can pick up an emergency charger for like $2 and AA batteries are pretty cheap and readily abundant. Its probably worth a try, so I might just order one for fun to test with. I'm going to be curious about what kind of increase in recording time it gives. One must remember it is 2000mah at the stock 1.5V, so upscaled to 3.7v and it would be about 800mah. Still more than a single 450mah battery, but I'm really just interested in getting the camera to be able to run about 80 minutes. More is just gravy.

Still, my original background was with a gumstick cam: very small, compact, very unobtrusive, and very robust. To add a small cable to the USB port running to a small battery cylinder means my package just got bigger, is less robust/stable, and more awkward for mounting in my application. While many people are concerned about keeping weight down, I'm concerned with keeping size down as well. It may require a trip to the machine shop to CNC a new case that fits a bigger battery if I can't have it my way with the stock case.

And if that were the case (if I were to be so ambitious) I wonder if I could reorient the camera to face the side that has the buttons on it - it would make attaching a wide-angle lens easier.

Originally Posted by Fred79

I hear that, and it is quite tempting... You can pick up an emergency charger for like $2 and AA batteries are pretty cheap and readily abundant. Its probably worth a try, so I might just order one for fun to test with. I'm going to be curious about what kind of increase in recording time it gives. One must remember it is 2000mah at the stock 1.5V, so upscaled to 3.7v and it would be about 800mah. Still more than a single 450mah battery, but I'm really just interested in getting the camera to be able to run about 80 minutes. More is just gravy.

Still, my original background was with a gumstick cam: very small, compact, very unobtrusive, and very robust. To add a small cable to the USB port running to a small battery cylinder means my package just got bigger, is less robust/stable, and more awkward for mounting in my application. While many people are concerned about keeping weight down, I'm concerned with keeping size down as well. It may require a trip to the machine shop to CNC a new case that fits a bigger battery if I can't have it my way with the stock case.

And if that were the case (if I were to be so ambitious) I wonder if I could reorient the camera to face the side that has the buttons on it - it would utmake attaching a wide-angle lens easier.

Yes, the jury is still out until we can get some hands on feedback on recording time boost.

A new case with side mounted lens could be "easily" done, though, as far as the camera is concerned. The ribbon cable that attaches the lens CMOS module to the camera circuit board goes through a 90 deg. bend to position the lens on the end of the circuit. If you just run it straight and flat, the lens module would extend only about 3-4mm further beyond the end of the circuit board than it now does, and it would point to the flat side with the buttons on it.

I guess you read in recent posts, My Camera Guy mentions they are working on a new HD cam with 4 hour recording capability. Details unknown, but if they are using the same major circuit components, especially the CMOS module and the video processor chip, they will need about a 1500 mAh lipo cell for power with a 16 GB flash memory to hold all that video.

Originally Posted by Fred79

... On my other two cameras the movie was always saved continuously, so even if you run it to dead battery, the movie is saved. Is that not the case with this current firmware? Will I need to recover the camera before the battery dies and push the shutter button?

Yes, this camera DOES NOT save the file that it was recording when the battery gets too low to power the camera... a design fault that needs to be addressed. It DOES SAVE the file, however, if the memory card fills up while it is recording (as it should).

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Yes, this camera DOES NOT save the file that it was recording when the battery gets too low to power the camera... a design fault that needs to be addressed. It DOES SAVE the file, however, if the memory card fills up while it is recording (as it should).

Hopefully you can indicate the NEED for this to be fixed and MY CAMERA GUY will be able to communicate that need to the right people so that it gets fixed in a new firmware.

Can anyone comment on how much time is lost between two files if a file is written every 20 minutes and a new one is started? If you were to merge these two files together, would there be any perceived loss of capture? I would hope that is a non-issue, and if it is, it would also be addressed in a firmware update.


As for 4 hours recording - you're right about needing a bigger battery, and that means it wont be in a key-fob case, would be larger, and heavier. I like the key-fob size. I dont know that I would want to buy something much larger, but I'll have to wait and see what their form factor is if they ever put it out.

Things I like about the 808:
1) small size, discreet case
2) camera direction can be useful for recording 'forward motion' if bottom is used to fix it to something.
3) ability to remove date/time stamp

Things that I like about the 808HD over the 808:
1) larger more useful FOV (AOV)
2) true HD (not upscaled 640x480), h264
3) Correct aspect ratio
4) ability to run the camera from external power / charge while recording

What I want to see improved:
1) video files auto-saved to flash memory card so if power drains too much recording is not lost.
2) more battery power for ~80 minutes of recording per charge

Comments inserted...

Originally Posted by Fred79

Hopefully you can indicate the NEED for this to be fixed and MY CAMERA GUY will be able to communicate that need to the right people so that it gets fixed in a new firmware.

I did this previously, but just reiterated it with My camera Guy and asked if they will be able to do it.

Can anyone comment on how much time is lost between two files if a file is written every 20 minutes and a new one is started? If you were to merge these two files together, would there be any perceived loss of capture? I would hope that is a non-issue, and if it is, it would also be addressed in a firmware update.

I commented on this in a prior post. Yes, there is a perceived loss, but its only 3 secs. I don't think this is something that can be fixed with this minimal camera, other than by eliminating the stop/save/continue record function altogether, which is being worked on.

As for 4 hours recording - you're right about needing a bigger battery, and that means it wont be in a key-fob case, would be larger, and heavier. I like the key-fob size. I dont know that I would want to buy something much larger, but I'll have to wait and see what their form factor is if they ever put it out.

Things I like about the 808:
1) small size, discreet case
2) camera direction can be useful for recording 'forward motion' if bottom is used to fix it to something.
3) ability to remove date/time stamp

Things that I like about the 808HD over the 808:
1) larger more useful FOV (AOV)
2) true HD (not upscaled 640x480), h264
3) Correct aspect ratio
4) ability to run the camera from external power / charge while recording

What I want to see improved:
1) video files auto-saved to flash memory card so if power drains too much recording is not lost.
2) more battery power for ~80 minutes of recording per charge

1) is reportedly coming, as is 2), but then 2) will not be a key fob camera and should perhaps have it's own thread. They might be able to cut back on the video data rate with this camera to about 4.5 to 5 Mbps without significant visible loss of quality, but I don't know if this would require less work and hence less power consumption by the video module and video processor or not. If it resulted in more "down time" for the processors, I'd rather have a higher frame rate than more battery recording time. YMMV.

Why don't you get another stock-sized battery, tape it to the case, and parallel it with the internal one... should give just slightly more than 80 minutes of record time.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Why don't you get another stock-sized battery, tape it to the case, and parallel it with the internal one... should give just slightly more than 80 minutes of record time.

I'm already thinking about that! great minds think alike. I wish I could keep the battery inside the case, so I'm just on the fence about whether I would mod the case to fit something just a _little_ bigger, create a new case to hold a larger battery, or strap a second battery to the outside. I think it may be an easier decision if I could figure out how much power was needed for 80 minutes of video (maybe 90 to be on the safe side).

Regarding the stop/save/continue function to save the recording every 20 minutes and start a new file, what are the chances that can be disabled? I'd rather the camera just saved the file when either
a) the stop button is pushed
b) the power runs too low
c) the memory card is filled up, or
d) a 4gb file size limit is reached (a limitation of FAT32)

a & c work already, so I hope they implement 'b'... and get rid of the auto-save every 20 minutes - it becomes redundant once 'b' works.

Edit: this seems like speed posting, but I just read a review here that says one negative about the new 808HD camera - it over-exposes the center of the image, called 'the flashlight effect'. Its obvious in the video he posts, especially in the last couple seconds. Can anyone comment on this?
http://www.2kool4u.com/stryker/keychaincam720P.shtml

Does anyone know what exactly that "blue glue" is, one can find inside the usb plug (car charger) and inside the case? (red circles in attached pics)
Are those some kind of silicone or acryl adhesives, or is it a sealing agent specifically used in electronic devices?
Where can I get it and how can I apply it?

First picture shot with the HD, second with an old #3.
I case you might wonder what the black bar is in picture 2: I accidentally left the "Date Off"-firmware file for the HD in one of the flash cards so the #3 (which had the date/time stamp removed) loaded it.

I believe mine was just regular old hot glue, but it wasn't blue either, kinda clear or white-ish.

More interestingly... Your #3 loaded the firmware for the HD camera, and still works?

Hey Guys,

Back in the dark ages when I got my #3 cams I tried to set the date stamp to a date with the year 1943 since the stamp wasn't removable. It wouldn't work.

It's a dumb question but is it possible to set the year to some time in the 40's on the new #11's.

I'll remove the date but at some point I might want a good warbird date on my footage.

Joe

Originally Posted by KeithLuneau

I believe mine was just regular old hot glue, but it wasn't blue either, kinda clear or white-ish.

More interestingly... Your #3 loaded the firmware for the HD camera, and still works?

So, if I'm doing the pin4-modification I can just use hot glue, right?

Yes my #3 works with the firmware for the HD loaded, although I'm not sure if I'm able to remove the black bar now by repeating the date removal for the #3. Will test it tomorrow.

hi guys I just found this thread and skimmed through it but could not find an answer to my question so mabye someone could help me I don't like dealing with Ebay so is there a website that sells these HD808 cams? I have the non hd one and love it .

Originally Posted by KeithLuneau

I believe mine was just regular old hot glue, but it wasn't blue either, kinda clear or white-ish.

More interestingly... Your #3 loaded the firmware for the HD camera, and still works?

Looking from a developer point of view, when producing a Mk11 from a Mk3 I would look for a camera/video processor chip that had the same harware interface and a processor very very similar to the Mk3 (but probably faster) so as to keep development time/effort down to a mininum, so I'm not that surprised that Mk3 runs Mk11 firmware - but there IS a difference - the Black bars which are not there on the MK11 - maybe the Mk3 would run the TimeStamp ON firmware as well - & that would confuse the people who look at the timestamp and say 'AHHa a Mk11'
What is the VIDEO aspect ratio of the Mk3 now it has Mk11 firmware - I bet it is just standard 4:3. please post a video clip Tom would be Happy.
Mike
oooo what a lot of blather that quick post was

Originally Posted by Fred79

I'm already thinking about that! great minds think alike. I wish I could keep the battery inside the case, so I'm just on the fence about whether I would mod the case to fit something just a _little_ bigger, create a new case to hold a larger battery, or strap a second battery to the outside. I think it may be an easier decision if I could figure out how much power was needed for 80 minutes of video (maybe 90 to be on the safe side).

Regarding the stop/save/continue function to save the recording every 20 minutes and start a new file, what are the chances that can be disabled? I'd rather the camera just saved the file when either
a) the stop button is pushed
b) the power runs too low
c) the memory card is filled up, or
d) a 4gb file size limit is reached (a limitation of FAT32)

a & c work already, so I hope they implement 'b'... and get rid of the auto-save every 20 minutes - it becomes redundant once 'b' works.

Edit: this seems like speed posting, but I just read a review here that says one negative about the new 808HD camera - it over-exposes the center of the image, called 'the flashlight effect'. Its obvious in the video he posts, especially in the last couple seconds. Can anyone comment on this?
http://www.2kool4u.com/stryker/keychaincam720P.shtml

I just answered your first two questions in my prior post.

There is a "hot spot" in the center of the videos, but it varies quite a bit depending on the brightness of the scene. It's much more noticeable in lower light situations, and some of it is due to light fall off (vignetting) towards the corners and right/left edges due to the lens. Take the time to page back through this thread and view the videos that have already been posted, and make up you own mind about this.

Originally Posted by deepinside

So, if I'm doing the pin4-modification I can just use hot glue, right?

Yes my #3 works with the firmware for the HD loaded, although I'm not sure if I'm able to remove the black bar now by repeating the date removal for the #3. Will test it tomorrow.

Use hot glue for what? You have to solder the wire obviously. You might glue the plug cover back on with hot glue, though.

Your #3 camera did NOT load firmware for the HD camera, I can assure you. And the date removal for the #3 leaves the black background on the still pictures. The actual date stamp numbers are removed, but not the black background in the still pictures. No one has figured out how to remove the black background, so save the effort of trying to do the #3 date removal... it won't change anything.

Originally Posted by Joespeeder

It's a dumb question but is it possible to set the year to some time in the 40's on the new #11's.

That's a cool idea, but digital timers were rare in 1943, look at how they annotated bomb bay pictures

It could be done in editors, post production.

Originally Posted by empeabee

Looking from a developer point of view, when producing a Mk11 from a Mk3 I would look for a camera/video processor chip that had the same harware interface and a processor very very similar to the Mk3 (but probably faster) so as to keep development time/effort down to a mininum, so I'm not that surprised that Mk3 runs Mk11 firmware - but there IS a difference - the Black bars which are not there on the MK11 - maybe the Mk3 would run the TimeStamp ON firmware as well - & that would confuse the people who look at the timestamp and say 'AHHa a Mk11'
What is the VIDEO aspect ratio of the Mk3 now it has Mk11 firmware - I bet it is just standard 4:3. please post a video clip Tom would be Happy.
Mike
oooo what a lot of blather that quick post was

The ONLY similarity between ANY of the old 808 cameras and the HD key cam is the plastic case it comes in. EVRYTHING is different in the HD key cam, different CMOS module, vastly different video processor, etc. etc., and IMHO, it is erroneous to call it the #11 as was done on ChuckLohr's site. It leads to assumptions as was just posted that the #3 loaded the HD firmware. It didn't, and the black bars seen on the #3 still pictures are part of it's firmware. Even though the date removal process that the old 808 uses erases the font that gets displayed, it doesn't remove the black background they were on! Simple as that.

Originally Posted by hotdog1

hi guys I just found this thread and skimmed through it but could not find an answer to my question so mabye someone could help me I don't like dealing with Ebay so is there a website that sells these HD808 cams? I have the non hd one and love it .

No. The sellers of this camera maintain their web stores by selling through eBay. And they are all very customer oriented with nothing to be cautious of just because their web stores are maintained on eBay for ease of transactions.

duplicate post... sorry.

Just did a Blue Note Creations Pixie maiden using my #11 808 as a helmet cam:

Pixie RC Wing (4 min 41 sec)

For those of you that may be using Linux, OpenShot Video Editor works very well for editing HD videos.

The key chain camera file needs to have the audio codec converted, and that's easily done with ffmpeg (in this example to MP3):

ffmpeg -i source.avi -f avi -vcodec copy -acodec libmp3lame -ar 16000 -ac 1 dest.avi

Once you're done editing your video, you can export it with the following options (screenshot also attached):

Profile: All formats
Target: MP4 (h.264)
Video Profile: ATSC 720p 30Hz
Quality: High

The following video was taken with a HD key chain cam and edited entirely with OpenShot using 64-bit Ubuntu 10.04 (Lucid Lynx).

Vas

Hobbyzone Champ Losing Propeller (2 min 17 sec)

Originally Posted by deepinside

Does anyone know what exactly that "blue glue" is, one can find inside the usb plug (car charger) and inside the case? (red circles in attached pics)
Are those some kind of silicone or acryl adhesives, or is it a sealing agent specifically used in electronic devices?
Where can I get it and how can I apply it?

The one in my camera was just hot glue. I have removed the case, the glue, and re-wrapped the camera in heat shrink wrap, to make it lighter.

Vas

Originally Posted by deepinside

Yes my #3 works with the firmware for the HD loaded, although I'm not sure if I'm able to remove the black bar now by repeating the date removal for the #3. Will test it tomorrow.

DON'T! Like Tom says, you cannot interchange firmware for completely different processors. As it is, your #3 is not running the #11 firmware - the black bars prove this. If you download the #11 firmware to your #3 (using the ISP program) you will almost certainly destroy your #3. Never even think about interchanging firmware between #s', never.

It seems the HD808 is really in flux, as early users of the camera work out the kinks, and Tom has done a great job of relaying your input back and forth between the creators and the RCG gang. I've been holding off on buying the HD version because it sounds like they are not very user friendly. I'm still waiting to see what the final product will look like.

Tony

Tony, I personally think the HD camera is a little easier to use than the #3 was. It actually has a charge LED to let you know when it's charging and when it's done. It's buttons are easier to figure out, and the webcam mode actually works on Windows 7 (and looks great too). For some, the h.264 compression in the .mov container can be an issue, but I was already set up for editing it having a couple of other cameras that produce the same kind of video. Removing the timestamp is as easy as dragging and dropping a file, and turning the camera off and back on again. It also works with a memory card that was too slow for the #8 and marginal for the #3. All in all, it's a winner for me!

Thanks for that input, Keith. BTW, did you get the package I sent?

Tony

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The ONLY similarity between ANY of the old 808 cameras and the HD key cam is the plastic case it comes in. EVRYTHING is different in the HD key cam, different CMOS module, vastly different video processor, etc. etc., and IMHO, it is erroneous to call it the #11 as was done on ChuckLohr's site. It leads to assumptions as was just posted that the #3 loaded the HD firmware. It didn't, and the black bars seen on the #3 still pictures are part of it's firmware. Even though the date removal process that the old 808 uses erases the font that gets displayed, it doesn't remove the black background they were on! Simple as that.

Correction noted - Thanks.
Mike (note to self - engage brain B4 opening mouth)

Originally Posted by t-turley

Thanks for that input, Keith. BTW, did you get the package I sent?

Tony

Not yet, maybe today! I'll let you know!

Ok, here you go, being a novice how do I make, convert MOV to WMV and not loose the HD quality? I have had a MOV from a friends Droid that looked and sounded great on the phone but when added to WMM it lost quality. Whats best for Win XP pro?
Tom J.
PS: Diana said send the brick back, and I have another one on the way.

Just ordered two from power-gps. Glad to see the date and time stamp can be removed, albeit with great caution as described in post # 3.

Originally Posted by deepinside

So, if I'm doing the pin4-modification I can just use hot glue, right?

What is the 'pin4-modification' you are doing?

Originally Posted by VasMan

The following video was taken with a HD key chain cam and edited entirely with OpenShot using 64-bit Ubuntu 10.04 (Lucid Lynx).

Vas

That's a great video! Also a fine save in such a tight area

High altitude with the 808HD on a Slowstick:

High Altitude Night Slowstick with HD Camera (5 min 47 sec)

There was a post a while back that mentioned an anti-vignetting filter or plugin for VirtualDub, or maybe it was for AviDemux. Has anyone tried anything like that?

I guess the vignetting, or flashlight effect, or whatever, is really noticeable to me in the videos posted here. I remember that someone tried enlarging the opening in the case, and it made no difference. So it comes down to the lens/sensor combination they chose that causes the problem. Well, maybe that's something they would consider changing. In the meantime, I just wonder whether a software filter might help.

Originally Posted by Kerbob

High altitude with the 808HD on a Slowstick:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TagXHwATQLM

Kerbob,

Excellent, I watched all of the video. Well done. I don't even watch my own videos to the end.

Bill

Originally Posted by VasMan

For those of you that may be using Linux, OpenShot Video Editor works very well for editing HD videos.
...

Thanks for the link to the OpenShot project. Though only compiled for Liunux right now, I see they are soliciting programmer support to cross-compile for Windows platforms. I'll be keeping an eye on this... for open source freeware, this editor has a ton of features not found in other open source editors. I'd send in some $$ donation for the author's effort on something like this if it works well!

BTW, although not humorous to you at the time I'm sure, the slo-mo shot of your prop fluttering away in the breeze made me chuckle a bit having had similar things happen, but with no camera on board to capture it. It's really neat how these little cameras can capture events like that for later "enjoyment" Good that it happened at altitude where you had the time and room to do a very meticulous deadstick landing. Nice recovery!

Originally Posted by KeithLuneau

Tony, I personally think the HD camera is a little easier to use than the #3 was. It actually has a charge LED to let you know when it's charging and when it's done. It's buttons are easier to figure out, and the webcam mode actually works on Windows 7 (and looks great too). For some, the h.264 compression in the .mov container can be an issue, but I was already set up for editing it having a couple of other cameras that produce the same kind of video. Removing the timestamp is as easy as dragging and dropping a file, and turning the camera off and back on again. It also works with a memory card that was too slow for the #8 and marginal for the #3. All in all, it's a winner for me!

I'll second this! Many of us are really picky about tweaking things, and much of the early posting has been in regards to that.

This camera works very well right out of the box, is much better than my #3 808 cams, and there should be no concern with removing the time/date stamp with any camera purchased now. I need to go back and edit my early post about this. Only two early purchasers have had any problem with the procedure bricking their camera, and the vendors are replacing those for free.

Originally Posted by Fred79

What is the 'pin4-modification' you are doing?

Fred, use the "search this thread" function you find in the blue header bar. You can easily zoom in on the posts where this was discussed by searching for "pin 4".

The mod is a way to emulate what the car charger is doing with it's USB cord pin terminations, putting the +5V on pin 4 instead of the normal pin 1.

Originally Posted by Fred79

What is the 'pin4-modification' you are doing?

Desoldering the 5V-cable of the USB from Pin 1 and solder it back to Pin 4 to simulate what the car charger cable does, so I can charge and record video at the same time resulting in much a longer recording. Could then be used e.g. with an USB Emergency Charger.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Your #3 camera did NOT load firmware for the HD camera, I can assure you. And the date removal for the #3 leaves the black background on the still pictures. The actual date stamp numbers are removed, but not the black background in the still pictures. No one has figured out how to remove the black background, so save the effort of trying to do the #3 date removal... it won't change anything.

Thanks for the information. Never actually used the photo function on the #3 so I thought it must have to do with the bin-file left on the card.

Originally Posted by wayback

There was a post a while back that mentioned an anti-vignetting filter or plugin for VirtualDub, or maybe it was for AviDemux. Has anyone tried anything like that?

I guess the vignetting, or flashlight effect, or whatever, is really noticeable to me in the videos posted here. I remember that someone tried enlarging the opening in the case, and it made no difference. So it comes down to the lens/sensor combination they chose that causes the problem. Well, maybe that's something they would consider changing. In the meantime, I just wonder whether a software filter might help.

The filter is for Vdub. It is something I want to try when I get a chance, but you first have to re-encode the video into .AVI format before you can import into Vdub (at least on W7 PCs), so it's a double editing task even if it works. And it takes some additional work to first do a recording of a white background to make a mask that matches your camera exactly. If it works, it might be worthwhile for some, but not without some extra effort. If it just brings the corners and left/right edges of the frame into equal brightness, that may not improve things that much, because the darkened extremes of the frame also has different color saturation and white balance. The HD camera does not maintain consistent color saturation and white balance as the scene brightness changes. The video I've shot with overcast skies has good color saturation, but in bright sunny skies the color is considerably over-saturated. It just something we have to accept with a $40 HD camera for now. The old 808s do the same thing, but since the CMOS output is 4:3 aspect ratio instead of 16:9, it's easier for the similar size lens to illuminate its CMOS array more evenly, so vignetting is not as great.

AviDemux has the ability to import third party filters... maybe it's possible to use the Vdub filer in AviDemux.

I plan to investigate all this when I have some spare time. Also, the need for a better lens was also passed on to the vendors for consideration. They said finding one to fit the small (6mm?) threaded boss of the CMOS module was the problem. A better lens might exist that will fit... just need to find some sources for a possible fit. I've done a little web searching, but haven't come up with anything.

Originally Posted by deepinside

...
Thanks for the information. Never actually used the photo function on the #3 so I thought it must have to do with the bin-file left on the card.

Understandable, but when uncertain, better to ask or speculate about what might have happened than make an assumption and state what "did" happen. Without confirmation, others get confused or lead off on a tangent that doesn't exist.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

A better lens might exist that will fit... just need to find some sources for a possible fit. I've done a little web searching, but haven't come up with anything.

Anyone checked if a #3 lens would fit the 808HD? The #3 AOV is fine for me.

Thanks!

I ordered three camera's #3 in December. One was very soft, but technically OK. The other one was sharp, but didn't work as it should work.

So I had the idea of swapping the lenses to get one sharp AND good working camera... But unfortunately the thread on both lenses were different!

So there are different lenses around, even within the #3 versions! Let alone it will fit on the HD cam...

Originally Posted by victapilot

Anyone checked if a #3 lens would fit the 808HD? The #3 AOV is fine for me.

Thanks!

I have not tried it, but will be interested if someone does. But, I don't believe it will have less vignetting. The lens needs to project a focused image across the wider and taller CMOS array that the HD camera has, so I don't think the one in the #3 camera will do that.

But, I reserve the right to be proven wrong! We won't know until someone tries it. If I get some spare time, I may give it a try while my camera is still open waiting for a sunny day to finalize my focusing efforts.

I thought it might work, just like swapping lenses in a SLR, but I'm just hoping. If the #3 is slightly smaller, teflon thread tape could help. But I also accept that the chances are slim. Hopefully the word will get back to the suppliers, it's really the only thing holding me back

Just got this email about my order:

I regret to inform you that I just got the notice from the postal administration,
due to heavy snow, delivery services (including Speed post) in the country
are subject to delay. Owning to the abnormal cold weather, many airlines
in our country have been cancelled, and many railways and roads have been
closed which directly caused the delivery delayed. We appreciate your understanding
and patience. We will keep tracking the package for you, and try our best
to offer you any help. You are also welcome to contact us about more solutions,
We do not want to give you a bad buying experience even when the shipping
is out of our control. and i hope you still give me positive feedback.any
problem you can connect me. we sincerely hope you can leave us a positive
comment and four 5-star Detailed Seller Ratings if you like it and appreciate
our customer services.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I have not tried it, but will be interested if someone does. But, I don't believe it will have less vignetting. The lens needs to project a focused image across the wider and taller CMOS array that the HD camera has, so I don't think the one in the #3 camera will do that.

But, I reserve the right to be proven wrong! We won't know until someone tries it. If I get some spare time, I may give it a try while my camera is still open waiting for a sunny day to finalize my focusing efforts.

I just tried this and it does not work, as I expected. First off, the #3 lens thread is smaller by at least 1mm, so it can't even be threaded in to test. I also looked at the CMOS array in both cameras while I had the chance. The #3 is approximately 4:3 aspect ratio, and is smaller in both dimensions than the larger 16:9 array in the HD versioon, again as expected.

So the search for a better lens for the HD key cam continues, and I'm convinced the #3 lens is not it...

So we should look for 1/4" sensor lenses.

I found something here:
http://www.optics-online.com/dsl_quarter.asp

But most lenses are more expensive than the camera....

Originally Posted by mavlo77

So we should look for 1/4" sensor lenses.

I found something here:
http://www.optics-online.com/dsl_quarter.asp

But most lenses are more expensive than the camera....

No... as was mentioned in prior posts, our HD camera has a lens with an M6 (6 mm) thread on it. The ones you linked all have an M12 (12 mm) threaded barrel... twice the diameter that will fit in the HD lens holder.

I thought the #3 was an M6? Any idea what size it is if it's smaller than that?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

No... as was mentioned in prior posts, our HD camera has a lens with an M6 (6 mm) thread on it. The ones you linked all have an M12 (12 mm) threaded barrel... twice the diameter that will fit in the HD lens holder.

Sorry, I overlooked that.

Originally Posted by KeithLuneau

I thought the #3 was an M6? Any idea what size it is if it's smaller than that?

There are versions of the #3 with different lens modules on them. I have two with the knurled ring on the lens being different sizes, but they both have the same dia. thread on the lens barrel.

<EDIT> I revised the following paragraph to reflect the new caliper measurements of the HD lens thread, which shows it to be closer to a 7mm thread, NOT 6mm as I previously estimated by "eyeballing" against a scale. <EDIT>

So, based on the measure dia. of the HD camera thread now being 7mm and not 6mm as I previously estimated, this would likely mean the #3 lens thread IS 6mm as you said.

Sorry for posting a visual guess rather than hard measurements in my prior posts!

In a prior post I mentioned the HD lens thread was "about 6mm" dia. This was estimated visually by holding the lens barrel in front of a metric scale.

With all the lens thread discussion, I decided to make a more accurate measurement of the #3 lens thread diameter. I had to remove it from the lens holder to get the flat portion of my vernier calipers on the thread, something I did not want to do previously and risk getting dust on the sensor array or finger smudge on the IR filter coating on the rear surface of the rear element.

But, it's good that I did because I got a reading of .273 in. My metric thread guide shows this to be much closer to 7mm (.2755) than 6mm (.2362)! But these are plastic threads, so the threads may be sharper and have a slightly larger OD than a metal thread would have.

It's probable there was some parallax error with my two eyes gaging the diameter against the metric scale, and the real thread is 7mm, not 6mm.

I'll let you thread experts out there be the judge, but this needs confirmation if someone is trying to find a better replacement lens. If I had a bricked HD camera, I'd do some tests with actual 6mm and 7mm nuts to see which it is.

Sorry for the flakey information!

Originally Posted by Tim Cullip

I just got my camera from eletoponline365 but I can't seem to get it to work.

If I push the power button (the bigger of the two buttons) the yellow led starts flashing: on about a second, off about 1/2 sec and just continues to do that over and over again.......
Tim

Hey Tim
I got the same behaviour with a memory card inserted. I'm not sure but it could be after using it in webcam mode.
After pressing the "reset button" ,with the cam disconnected from the USB port the cam works again .

Much thanks to all contributors to this thread .

A+

Edit : Another param.ini input could be the choice between HD720 30F/s and 360VGA 60 f/s

Originally Posted by papayankee

Hey Tim
I got the same behaviour with a memory card inserted. I'm not sure but it could be after using it in webcam mode.
After pressing the "reset button" ,with the cam disconnected from the USB port the cam works again .

Much thanks to all contributors to this thread .

A+

Edit : Another param.ini input could be the choice between HD720 30F/s and 360VGA 60 f/s

Okay, I admit I havn't been following this but, the yellow flashing could mean you don't have the memory card inserted or maybe you're putting it in the wrong side up (contacts up toward the button side is the correct orientation). Or maybe you could format the card with a standalone formatter like Tom posted.

The camera defaults to the video mode so it shouldn't be going into webcam unless you are doing something to change the mode.

Sorry, you've probably been thru my suggestions but like I said, I haven't been following this very well (like, at all )

I'll go back to keeping quite now.

Yabba

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

In a prior post I mentioned the HD lens thread was "about 6mm" dia. I'll let you thread experts out there be the judge, but this needs confirmation if someone is trying to find a better replacement lens. If I had a bricked HD camera, I'd do some tests with actual 6mm and 7mm nuts to see which it is.

Tom

Thanks for testing that, and I'm glad nothing got harmed in the process!! I'll check my oldest #3 - it has the biggest lens, and if it looks interesting, I'll post. The #7 from HK has a much worse lens - focussed in center but not edges, so that's not a viable source based on a one camera sample.

Originally Posted by yabbadaba2

Okay, I admit I havn't been following this but, the yellow flashing could mean you don't have the memory card inserted or maybe you're putting it in the wrong side up (contacts up toward the button side is the correct orientation). Or maybe you could format the card with a standalone formatter like Tom posted.

I'll go back to keeping quite now.

Yabba

My HD8o8 works well yesterday evening but this morning the same strange behaviour (blinking each second and nothing else).
When linked in a USB port the camera card is seen by WindowsXP with the DCIM and 100MEDIA (empty) folders in "M" disk (after on/off button pressed one time to be in on mode) but yellow led is still blinking while red led is on .

After depressing the on/off button the "M" disk desappear and the small icon in the lower right corner too.
Pressing "reset" doed'nt recover .
Yesterday evening I erase all files in 100MEDIA folders, may be this is the cause ???
I will try reformat the memory card.

I stay tuned .

A+

Format the card in the camera using SDFormater V2 -> nothing.

Card removed window explorer see "M" disk and the two DCIM ans 100MEDIA folders and the small USB device icon is still there ??????????????


In fact the card is a micro SDHC Sandisk 4 GB !!!
Card put in a laptop thru an adaptor : nothing. Card toasted ?

Answer : No since inserted in a non HD 8o8 I get 4G on disk "M" and I have the .MOV file recorded yesterday evening with the HD8o8

HELP !

To summary my issue :
A 1GB or 4GB SDHC card wich are OK in two 8o8#3 cam gives a continous yellow led blinking (1 /s) when inserted in the HD #11 cam.
The HD8o8 is right in webcam mode.

Any idea ?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by papayankee

My HD8o8 works well yesterday evening but this morning the same strange behaviour (blinking each second and nothing else).

<<snip>>

Format the card in the camera using SDFormater V2 -> nothing.

Card removed window explorer see "M" disk and the two DCIM ans 100MEDIA folders and the small USB device icon is still there ??????????????


In fact the card is a micro SDHC Sandisk 4 GB !!!
Card put in a laptop thru an adaptor : nothing. Card toasted ?

Answer : No since inserted in a non HD 8o8 I get 4G on disk "M" and I have the .MOV file recorded yesterday evening with the HD8o8

HELP !

Listen, I'm no computer guy (as many here will attest ) but let me tell you something that has been happening to me and my computer.

Note that I ALWAYS have problems with my computer so I figured this was just "normal" for the way things go when I use a computer but...


Several times lately, after copying the video files to where I keep them on my computer, I would re-format the card. Sometimes in the camera itself (using Win Explorer) and sometimes by taking the card out and re-formatting in a standalone formatter (SD Formatter v 2.9.0.5).

Everything would be cool and I would go on about whatever else I was doing.

But then, I would try to type something (to RCG or in Word or in an e-mail) and NOTHING would work (on the keyboard). I still had mouse and cursor movement and everything just NO TYPING ALLOWED )

So I would re-BOOT my computer and suddenly all was good. I have no idea of what is/was going on.

But here's the real kicker....after doing the same thing several times to experiment and pin down the cause, it appears to only happen when I re-format with the card in the camera and using Win Explorer !

(just added) This is what may be of interest, also, when the keyboard would be dead I tried to insert the card into my card reader slot and nothing was recognized by Windows, no chime or usb icon or nothing. Checking Explorer, the drive/card was not seen. Re-boot, once again, everything was cool.

The times I take the card out and use SD Formatter, I don't seem to have a problem

Knock on wood, and I don't know if this will help you guys or not but I have had some strange behaviour using my #11 also.

Yabba

I just received mine, ordered on 24 december. I can confirm the timestamp removal as described in this post works: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=108

I think my heart skipped a few beats on step 4, but soon the light came on and the timestamp is gone

The webcam mode also works on my 2010 Macbook pro.

Hi all. Just joined RC groups. I got directed here from the AR Drone thread. I ordered my HD cam a few days back so I'm waiting for it on the mail. I really can't believe the videos I've seen shot with this thing. And to think I almost pulled the trigger on a GoPro. Actually what kept me form the GoPro was the weight. My only 2 flying machines are a Blade 400 heli and the AR Drone. I expect both will have no problem lifting the HD keychain cam. Anyway I just wanted to ask:

Has anybody had success in stabilizing this camera on a small aircraft like the ones I mentioned? As I understand it, there are no gimbals small/light enough for the weight class of birds I have, but it doesn't hurt to ask. (After all this HD keychain cam is not supposed to exist!)

It's just raining cameras! My GoPro arrived yesterday, and it appears that my 808HD is arriving today.

Doug

Originally Posted by papayankee

To summary my issue :
A 1GB or 4GB SDHC card wich are OK in two 8o8#3 cam gives a continous yellow led blinking (1 /s) when inserted in the HD #11 cam.
The HD8o8 is right in webcam mode.

Any idea ?

Thanks.

Very strange. You've ruled out a problem with the cards, I think. The blinking yellow typically means the card is not inserted, or if it is, the camera cannot detect it. But you say the PC CAN detect it in the camera when connected as a USB drive.

Can you access the card (i.e. copy files to/from the card when it's in the camera on the USB port? If the computer can see and access it but the camera cannot, the USB plug and the card socket on the camera would have to be making good contact on all the pins, and there would have to be something in the camera's card sensing components on the circuit board, downstream from the USB plug and card socket, that are not functioning correctly, I think. So the camera lights the yellow LED flashing trouble signal.

Is this an intermittent thing, i.e. does the camera sometimes sense the card and take video, or does it never sense the card now? If it's intermittent, there could be a cracked trace or solder connection somewhere, but these are hard to find visually. If it's not intermittent... not a good sign, and I don't know what to suggest other than seeing if you can get a replacement camera.

Maybe some one else has more to add?

This is about older camera version:
Camera will not operate. Battery will not charge - Due to a design defect in some cameras, the S4 diode in the battery charging circuit can fail. It probably fails because the absolute maximum current of the diode is exceeded when the battery voltage is low and the USB is connected. Only a very skilled technician with surface-mount-technology skills should attempt to fix it. Replace the camera.

Is there the same problem with this HD 720p car chain camera?

Thanks Tom

The behaviour is exactly what happen without memory card : Tim post

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post17126234

Including the (bad) reported size of removable disk "M".

I guess the connector is broken.
I have written to the seller internet-shop365.
Now i may open the shell and look around...

A+

Originally Posted by MarlboroCowboy

This is about older camera version:
Camera will not operate. Battery will not charge - Due to a design defect in some cameras, the S4 diode in the battery charging circuit can fail. It probably fails because the absolute maximum current of the diode is exceeded when the battery voltage is low and the USB is connected. Only a very skilled technician with surface-mount-technology skills should attempt to fix it. Replace the camera.

Is there the same problem with this HD 720p car chain camera?

No such problems have been reported, and if you look at the circuit board pictures in this thread, you'll see the HD camera has nothing in common with the old 808. Completely different video capture components, completely different circuit board design, completely different charging voltage control, etc. The ONLY similarity it has with the old 808 cameras is the case!

Originally Posted by papayankee

Thanks Tom

The behaviour is exactly what happen without memory card : Tim post

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post17126234

Including the (bad) reported size of removable disk "M".

I guess the connector is broken.
I have written to the seller internet-shop365.
Now i may open the shell and look around...

A+

Your link does not go to the specific post... you have to click on the post number, pop up a window which has only that post in it, then copy that URL to your post to link it.

But, if a connector in either the USB plug or card socket were broken, I'd think the PC would not see it either, but could be wrong on that. Maybe a pin is just dirty or has lost a bit of it's spring force? That might be correctable if you can locate it. E.g. with camera powered off and not connected to the PC USB, wet the plugs with a little alcohol and insert/remove/repeat a number of time to see if that might clean and dirty off the pins.

In any event, let us know what the final resolution is.

Is there a problem that this camera DOES NOT save the file that it was recording when the battery gets too low to power the camera?

Originally Posted by El Cuajinais

Has anybody had success in stabilizing this camera on a small aircraft like the ones I mentioned? As I understand it, there are no gimbals small/light enough for the weight class of birds I have, but it doesn't hurt to ask. (After all this HD keychain cam is not supposed to exist!)

I use Packing Tape to secure my old keychain Cam directly on top the Drone Hull. It's pretty secure and stable, buttons are operational. The buttons on the HD version seem to require less force to operate but I dont think it will be an issue.

My 808Hd(s) arrived yesterday after 7 days in transit to NY, from seller Eletoponline365, both are working well. 10K bitrate.
Here's my first 808HD video:

Micro RC car with Key Cam HD & Cats (2 min 49 sec)

edited with Windows Movie Maker.

Originally Posted by papayankee

To summary my issue :
A 1GB or 4GB SDHC card wich are OK in two 8o8#3 cam gives a continous yellow led blinking (1 /s) when inserted in the HD #11 cam.
The HD8o8 is right in webcam mode.

Any idea ?

papayankee, can you describe what happens when you put in the car charger cable and then try to record?

Good news here. Received my HD camera. Removed timestamp successfully.

Good news for those who want to have an even wider field of view.

This jelly lens:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22880

I was using this one on the #3. The HD has appr. the same angle as #3 plus jelly lens.

But..... jelly lens + HD camera results in an even wider view!!! (I guess about 90 degr.). I expected to see dark sides, but this isn't the case! This is based on some tests in the living room incandescent lighting. Will do some outdoor tests tomorrow, and show results here.

Mine arrived today! Yay! Charging it now.

What memory cards is everyone using for these?

Alright. Problem. My computer doesn't seem to 'see' the camera, when I plug it in via the USB cable. With the 808s, I'd plug them in and Windows would chime and a new device would appear in the File Explorer (Drive H: or whatever).

I am not getting anything with the new camera. The USB cable and port are known to be good and working perfectly with my old 808s.

I am using a SanDisk MicroSD class 4 8GB card.

The light does come on on the camera. The camera charges successfully and appears to work afterwards. But the computer doesn't see it.

Should this work? Anyone else have a similar experience?

Originally Posted by mclarkson

Alright. Problem. My computer doesn't seem to 'see' the camera, when I plug it in via the USB cable. With the 808s, I'd plug them in and Windows would chime and a new device would appear in the File Explorer (Drive H: or whatever).

I am not getting anything with the new camera. The USB cable and port are known to be good and working perfectly with my old 808s.

I am using a SanDisk MicroSD class 4 8GB card.

The light does come on on the camera. The camera charges successfully and appears to work afterwards. But the computer doesn't see it.

Should this work? Anyone else have a similar experience?

They work a little differently to the #3's. You need to press the on button after you plug it into the computer to exit charge mode and enter usb disk mode.

If you connect the camera to the PC in the off-condition, the red light will be on. You need to push the on/off button to enable the file transfer. It's in the Chinglish manual .

* edit * sgbfly, that was at the same time . You won.

You are correct. I are moron. Thanks!

For those who wish to add a 180 degree fisheye, this is how it looks with and without (sorry for the fingers on the side, couldn't hold the lens properly!

Camera arrived today. Charged it and followed the timestamp removal procedure. Woohoo!!!! no brick, and no more timestamp! Thanks for putting this info all in one place.

Now to mount this this to something that flies.

Doug

TorontoR, which lens is that? I've noticed that many of these lenses all look the same, but can vary greatly when it comes to image quality... That one looks pretty good!

I actually used one of those Jelly lenses once on my old keychain camera. It didn't want to stick in place, though. I'd need a different mounting, especially on my Stryker.

Originally Posted by KeithLuneau

TorontoR, which lens is that? I've noticed that many of these lenses all look the same, but can vary greatly when it comes to image quality... That one looks pretty good!

Keith,

I too have tired many lens (especially the cheap ones). This one is 16 bucks however the best quality I've come accross. Its the "FE-12" variant.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.39814

How do you mount it?

Originally Posted by mclarkson

How do you mount it?

its hot glued on! Extremely firm and has not come off at all in flight. When I need to remove it, I simply apply the appropiate angled pressure and it comes off. The glue comes completely off the camera and lens so nothing is blemished!

Can't wait to get this airborne on the weekend. had this lens on the #3 camera previously and had EXCELLENT results (see link)

RC plane crash and recovery (8 min 54 sec)

Wow. Not sure I'd trust it on my Stryker.

"We demand that you bring us ... a shrubbery!"

Carefull of those light poles, they have airplane magnets in them!
I thought of a piece of tape over the mic hole for airborne noise.

Originally Posted by deepinside

papayankee, can you describe what happens when you put in the car charger cable and then try to record?

No change : continous yellow led blinking ! The red led is off due to fully charged battery.

I think a failure in the memory card connector.
I have cleaned the contacts of the card with alcohol : no change.

There is a small sticker on the side of the cam which must be removed to open the shell. May be this is a warranty sticker so I will wait the seller comments .
Thanks

I have two of these on the #3 808 cameras. They work great. I also added UV filters to the front of them.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14953

Tony

Originally Posted by papayankee

No change : continous yellow led blinking ! The red led is off due to fully charged battery.

I think a failure in the memory card connector.
I have cleaned the contacts of the card with alcohol : no change.

There is a small sticker on the side of the cam which must be removed to open the shell. May be this is a warranty sticker so I will wait the seller comments .
Thanks

One of my 808 # 3 was positioned inside the card reader that when inserting the card is slid over the reader at times. Why are you going to do the same.
Card is sitting right side of the camera and the LED blinks if there were no cards.

Originally Posted by t-turley

I have two of these on the #3 808 cameras. They work great. I also added UV filters to the front of them.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14953

Tony

how are you mounting yours Tony? Hot glue also?

It seemed to work for Toronto but I have to agree with Mclarkson, it sure seems like a shakey way to mount it. Maybe blue painters tape would be better

Yabba

Originally Posted by yabbadaba2

how are you mounting yours Tony? Hot glue also?

It seemed to work for Toronto but I have to agree with Mclarkson, it sure seems like a shakey way to mount it. Maybe blue painters tape would be better

Yabba

I use 3M reclosable fasteners (velcro) to mount the camera on a plane. The velcro is glued on using supplemental adhesive -- UHU creativ.

Originally Posted by Prof100

I use 3M reclosable fasteners (velcro) to mount the camera on a plane. The velcro is glued on using supplemental adhesive -- UHU creativ.

Yeah Bill, I always (almost always) mount the camera with velcro also. I meant how was he mounting the lens to the camera.

Thx,
Yabba

Originally Posted by Joespeeder

Hey Guys,

Back in the dark ages when I got my #3 cams I tried to set the date stamp to a date with the year 1943 since the stamp wasn't removable. It wouldn't work.

It's a dumb question but is it possible to set the year to some time in the 40's on the new #11's.

I'll remove the date but at some point I might want a good warbird date on my footage.

Joe

Still thinking about your idea, here's how I would do it. Font is DigifaceWide (downloadable) which simulates early (if not 1944!!) readouts. I chose the time to be same as the start of D-Day

d day - first 21 seconds.mpg (0 min 23 sec)

Originally Posted by slacsteve

I have ordered a class 6 micro sd card. I have only the one unknown speed card.

Yes indeed I can copy a word document on to the memory and lo and behold the next time I try to make a movie it works. Then if I remove the word document it doesn't work. So it's a small price to pay for getting it to work. But I now have videos.

Other anomalies (features?):

1. After turn on the shortest push of the small button I get three flashes and dark - movies mode. There is no opportunity to take jpgs which is supposed to be a short pulse as it goes immediately into movie mode.

2. I did manage to get a jpg by pushing the large button after turn on, got the flash. But would not go into movie mode until I turned it off and back on again.

3. It will only take one movie and then I terminate. After that it will not start another movie or jpg until after I turn it off with the big button.

4. After all that sort of success I erae everything - nothing works.

5. Put the word file back, took 3 movies in a row, but no jpgs.

I'll try the faster memory card next week and report.

Every thing works fine with the new Transcend class 6 memory card (4GB) rather than the old San Disk 2GB from my low res key fob card. Camera functions as it should. No need to fool around with dragging an extra file in to force it (somehow) to save a movie. Stills/videos all work per your instructions. I guess you really must heed that broken english instruction to use a high speed card. Would have been nice if they had provided with the camera. $10 bucks on Amazon.

Thanks victapilot,

Looks good. Post production is a much better way of doing it now that we can remove the time stamps.

I was just trying to use the date stamp in the #3 cams for something useful when I tried this originally.

A BIG thanks to everyone that is revealing the inner secrets of these cams !!

and now the fun begins.....

Joe

I am having cataract surgery next month replacing a lens in my eye whilst awake,.If i think about it i will ask the surgeon for any spares that he may have floating about for camera experiments,or maybe i will just my pants.

Originally Posted by ballores

I am having cataract surgery next month replacing a lens in my eye whilst awake,.If i think about it i will ask the surgeon for any spares that he may have floating about for camera experiments,or maybe i will just my pants.

OT
That Op is no sweat - had it done just before xmas - 15 mins, no sweat, no pain, no problems & now no glare from oncoming cars/low sun
Mike
The worst part is the Paper work system & Dragons before and after the actual OP.

Originally Posted by ballores

I am having cataract surgery next month replacing a lens in my eye whilst awake,.If i think about it i will ask the surgeon for any spares that he may have floating about for camera experiments,or maybe i will just my pants.

Easy as pie You just lay there and the gas passer asks if you are starting to get drowsy and if you are able to answer him (I did), believe me, that's the last thing you will remember until you wake up

And empeabee is right, everything is so much colorful and bright and clearer. It will make you realize that you've been looking at things for the last several years thru a dirty window pane.

My Mom had it several years before mine and the day they took the patch off, she called me and was bubbling like a little school girl about how much more colorful and clearer everything was. I thought "that's cute". And then I had mine and I understood why she had been so happy.

Good luck
Yabba