Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcast12 View Post
I've tried various disk checking software on the card and got no errors. I also copied a large 2gb HD video onto the #11 and it played flawlessly.

Looks like it's the camera

Also to note, the files it records are the correct length, playable (sound is fine, no picture) and moveable/deletable. Repairing the files gives partially garbled, generally unwatchable footage.

edit: webcam works fine
One last try (before Sir Tom wakes up )
Have you tried re-flashing (reloading) your Firmware in the camera ?
Mike
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
One last try (before Sir Tom wakes up )
Have you tried re-flashing (reloading) your Firmware in the camera ?
Mike
yup, same issue.
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mcast12 View Post
yup, same issue.
humm. I think it is time to call in Tom, as he has the contacts with the developers (they might be interested in the "smoking remains" for post mortem) & ( maybe try for a lowered cost replacement ??).
Mike
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
humm. I think it is time to call in Tom, as he has the contacts with the developers (they might be interested in the "smoking remains" for post mortem) & ( maybe try for a lowered cost replacement ??).
Mike
Hmmm... I have not seen where a different flash card has been tried (did I miss it?).... they can wear out or otherwise go bad as we know. I know it tested OK, but that's with a different host device communicating with the card. Just trying to rule out other possibilities.

The camera developer monitors the threads, so I do not need to pass on comments. The camera is 6 months old, so not sure if this goes beyond a normal replacement period or not, especially not knowing under what extremes the camera has been used. All things break.... eventually!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 01, 2012 at 03:36 PM. Reason: rewrote
Old Feb 01, 2012, 08:58 PM
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I downloaded from page 1 the firmware to test sd cards and it corupted my comp and just now was able to correct this problem.
Please be aware of this
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by eckace1 View Post
I downloaded from page 1 the firmware to test sd cards and it corupted my comp and just now was able to correct this problem.
Please be aware of this
I assume you mean a program, not firmware. Not enough information! None of the correct downloads should corrupt your computer. Can you be more specific? What did you download (crystalDiskmark?)?. What computer operating system (XP, Vista, Windows 7)? What happened... e.g what error messages, system crash, what? What did you do to "fix" it?
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 03:49 AM
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i broke my camera

look what i do

I open my camera to change the angle, i do so many times until this happens




can be repaired?

or maybe can i buy only the lens?

thx
sry my english
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by timetec View Post
You should be able to get replacement OV9712 CMOS modules for the #11 without any problems directly from digitalele889 or eletoponline365 - for about $8 each.

If you were thinking of adding a PCB connector to the #11's PCB to allow the removal and replacement of the CMOS module, I honestly think you can forget it.
This would be a great addition, but the pitch of the Flexible Printed Circuit on the #11 module is 0.635mm (the same as SSOP IC's) - but non-standard for FFC connectors.
I did however find one supplier in China offering FFC / FPC connectors with a pitch of 0.625mm - very close, but I've never heard back from them. Link HERE :

Good luck in your quest - Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
Now I remember! We have already talked about your unhappily glued module!



What a bad news! Maybe you can dissect the internal CMOS and see if you can reach directly a soldering point to recreate the broken connection.


We are taking more about medical surgery than electronics

Maybe there's someone around with a bricked cam that wants to donate it to science

Post a picture of the damage.. maybe we could find a way round. I've a cam that it's running strong after a pin pad reconstruction
I'm still tinkering, but will most probably order a new CMOS module and see if that will fix my problem.

I don't think the lifted track is bad at all. I've remove the glue remains with lots of acetone and soaking... The CMOS tracks are very long and I expect I can solder the cable without repairing the track, maybe I'll have to add a short extension. I'll have to clean up the tracks a bit first. Also I like timetec's idea about adding an FFC connector - too bad it would be non-standard. I don't know how he found that site, and most probably they won't sell one or two samples anyway!


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Old Feb 02, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by l4l4u View Post
look what i do

I open my camera to change the angle, i do so many times until this happens

can be repaired?

or maybe can i buy only the lens?

thx
sry my english
If you can solder, it's possible. See my previous post #8708. You can most probably order a new CMOS module from the eBay seller where you bought your camera.

But I have a question. What happens when you turn on your camera? Which LED is lit? I don't have a jumbo, but does the yellow LED blink or is it solid yellow (might be another color on the jumbo). Does the shutter button react?
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I'm still tinkering, but will most probably order a new CMOS module and see if that will fix my problem.
....

To Quote the Bard :-
In days of old
When men were bold
And PCBs were just invented
Used a pen with Silver loaded Ink
And we were quite contented
Mike
(I.A.)
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Old Feb 02, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I'm still tinkering, but will most probably order a new CMOS module and see if that will fix my problem.

I don't think the lifted track is bad at all. I've remove the glue remains with lots of acetone and soaking... The CMOS tracks are very long and I expect I can solder the cable without repairing the track, maybe I'll have to add a short extension. I'll have to clean up the tracks a bit first. Also I like timetec's idea about adding an FFC connector - too bad it would be non-standard. I don't know how he found that site, and most probably they won't sell one or two samples anyway!


if the circle around the vias hole is not lifted ..than it will work perfectly ! I had a similar situation on one of my camera
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
If you can solder, it's possible. See my previous post #8708. You can most probably order a new CMOS module from the eBay seller where you bought your camera.

But I have a question. What happens when you turn on your camera? Which LED is lit? I don't have a jumbo, but does the yellow LED blink or is it solid yellow (might be another color on the jumbo). Does the shutter button react?
solder this one? or i have to buy a new one cmos module?
i do not understand anything of eletronics, if i send it in a eletricist?

see the video example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Uu0acLXQM8M
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l4l4u View Post
solder this one? or i have to buy a new one cmos module?
i do not understand anything of eletronics, if i send it in a eletricist?

see the video example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Uu0acLXQM8M
There is no way you can solder the broken connection , so you would have to buy a new CMOS module.

Then you would have to find somebody who can solder the new module for you. An electrician can't do this sort of work. You need to find an electronics technician.

Soldering the new module is the easy part - the difficult part is removing the old cable, and I can tell you, that could be very difficult if your cable is glued like mine was. It may be safer to cut the cable between the wires and desolder wire by wire. In any case, you would need to find someone with good soldering skills. It is impossible to do this if you have never soldered before. And remember, even if you find someone to solder the new CMOS module to the board, there is no guarantee that the camera will work - maybe something else got damaged when the cable broke - like in the video.
I hate to say this, but in the end it would most probably be cheaper to buy a new camera. Not very encouraging, I know.

Thanks for the video link - that is exactly what my #11 keychain does. Did that happen before the cable broke in half? If yes, then I believe this confirms my suspicion that the solid yellow LED indicates a broken CMOS module cable.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 06:40 AM
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My #11 has just recently stopped charging, only had it a few months and probably only charged it about 3 or 4 times in that period.

The red LED fails to come on no matter what lead I use, and I have sometimes heard a very high pitched squeal coming form inside the case.

is this likely to be a battery problem or something more serious.
It is a V2 board judging from the pictures on the first post


great thread by the way and have just ordered a #16 in case this one is dead as I now need to use it.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertig View Post
My #11 has just recently stopped charging, only had it a few months and probably only charged it about 3 or 4 times in that period.

The red LED fails to come on no matter what lead I use, and I have sometimes heard a very high pitched squeal coming form inside the case.

is this likely to be a battery problem or something more serious.
It is a V2 board judging from the pictures on the first post


great thread by the way and have just ordered a #16 in case this one is dead as I now need to use it.
Does the squeal come from the battery? If yes, disconnect the USB and let the battery calm down. Then remove it and dispose of it properly before it leaks or explodes. The batteries don't last long in the #11, I had one last just over one month, but it didn't squeal

You can buy new batteries from the original seller, but if you can't solder you'll have to strip the wire ends and connect them together and wrap them in electrical tape to prevent shorting. Maybe dip them in epoxy to make a solid joint before insulating them would also be a good idea.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Thanks, Not sure if it is the battery or something on board. I measured the battery voltage and it still seems OK and the camera still works if only for a few seconds.

I have ordered a new battery and will see how that goes, no problem with soldering.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertig View Post
Not sure if it is the battery or something on board.
I have ordered a new battery and will see how that goes, no problem with soldering.
just dont thrust the # 11 charge circuit i saw mine go up to 4.3V
wich mean over charge
ounce i made my battery mod, i only charge it with a real lipo
charger with futaba servo plug wich will prevent from going over 4.2V

after killing the original battery with the bad charge circuit, i now leave it out of camera case... easy to change...
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertig View Post
Thanks, Not sure if it is the battery or something on board. I measured the battery voltage and it still seems OK and the camera still works if only for a few seconds.

I have ordered a new battery and will see how that goes, no problem with soldering.
Battery voltage only tells you how fully charged the battery is. It says nothing about the cells ability to hold voltage under load. When lipos age and deteriorate, the internal plates start to build up with deposits, and this increases their internal resistance. The cell can still be charged up or very close to 4.2V, but during discharge, the internal resistance causes the voltage to drop more than normal, to the point of not being able to power the device they once could.

The #11 charge current was on the high side, which encourages plate deposits and early aging. The charge current was cut back to about 145mA (about .6C rate) on the number #16 version, which uses the same battery. That should increase the cycle life at the expense of increasing the charge time, which is 2 to 2-1/2 hours from a full discharge.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 05:29 PM
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TOM : i still like my # 11 and wait for my # 16
and still enjoy all your R&D !

but still : when you charge a brand new lipo
with higher than 4.2v , it's a mather of time before you will kill it
lipo handling = both charge current and top OFF voltage...
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Preaching to the converted
still All lopos die - eventually - just like us, some sooner than others.
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
TOM : i still like my # 11 and wait for my # 16
and still enjoy all your R&D !

but still : when you charge a brand new lipo
with higher than 4.2v , it's a mather of time before you will kill it
lipo handling = both charge current and top OFF voltage...
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
TOM : i still like my # 11 and wait for my # 16
and still enjoy all your R&D !

but still : when you charge a brand new lipo
with higher than 4.2v , it's a mather of time before you will kill it
lipo handling = both charge current and top OFF voltage...
Yes, going over 4.2 volts also stresses the cell, and 4.2 is the widely accepted best maximum voltage for a lipo. I wasn't disagreeing with that... just adding to it.

You can find literature citing lipo manufacturer's claiming a maximum voltage of 4.3V, and other citations claiming voltage over 4.23V promotes plate deposits, too. So I agree with 4.2V being the max. recommended voltage for safe use and longer cycle life.
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Old Feb 03, 2012, 08:23 PM
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last weekend video : # 11 on my CL415 nose :

Low light with white ice made it tough job to chase light

i still enjoy that little 20g camera

FrostBite... (1 min 16 sec)
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
last weekend video : # 11 on my CL415 nose :

Low light with white ice made it tough job to chase light

i still enjoy that little 20g camera

http://vimeo.com/36175692
Brrrr! If that ice is smooth enough for skating, you could get some neat "chase plane-like" shots with the right plane.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
Same here ggtroinc. I'm having a lot of fun with my #11 too.

http://youtu.be/16AOtaYvrfw
You've got some great scenery there on a sunny day, if you can raise the venetian blinds!
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:04 AM
Ook!
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Here's some sunny day flying to warm you up again - this is on-board my Strega 3 meter F3F glider at Ngaranui Beach, Raglan

Strega at Raglan, Jan 2012 (3 min 56 sec)
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Here's some sunny day flying to warm you up again - this is on-board my Strega 3 meter F3F glider at Ngaranui Beach, Raglan
What does the American Constitution say a bout Cruel and Unusual punishment ? Its snowing like .... here you so&so

twaz good, but the music showed up the deficiencies of my laptop speakers, had to get the cans out to appreciate the evil base line
Mike
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Hi Tom Frank

I have a question about #11 Jumbo BMW.
Tho power on button it's more sensible and every time I put the Keychain in my pocket, get power-On!
You should set that comes on only after prolonged pressure of 1-2 seconds (as the #16 keychain)
Is there a solution to this problem?

Thanks
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
you can raise the venetian blinds!
That's cruel tom

Quote:
Originally Posted by skaffen View Post
Here's some sunny day flying to warm you up again, Raglan
thanks Skaffen , lucky man ! almost cruel like Empeabee quote

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Brrrr!
Agree ! -15 degC this morning, but zero wind... too nice
even with frost bite , i need to fly : excellent result with full sun light # 11 key chain !
Ice Tree (2 min 48 sec)
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
That's cruel tom

thanks Skaffen , lucky man ! almost cruel like Empeabee quote


Agree ! -15 degC this morning, but zero wind... too nice
even with frost bite , i need to fly : excellent result with full sun light # 11 key chain !
http://vimeo.com/36233474
Very Nice Movie BRAVO!!
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:56 PM
Reap the wild wind
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Nice video ggtroinc and good choice of music. Well worth the frostbite
What plane are you using and was the video footage at full speed or did you slow it down?
Andy
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 12:59 PM
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What plane are you using and was the video footage at full speed or did you slow it down?
Andy
Thanks

The plane doesnt actualy made any miracle... IT WAS A PERFECT
ZERO wind condition, like you only see few times in your life : magic zero wind...

FALCON here

75% of this clip was normal speed... i only slow down low
pass shots between me & my girlfriend
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by befanello View Post
Hi Tom Frank

I have a question about #11 Jumbo BMW.
Tho power on button it's more sensible and every time I put the Keychain in my pocket, get power-On!
You should set that comes on only after prolonged pressure of 1-2 seconds (as the #16 keychain)
Is there a solution to this problem?

Thanks
If you search this thread you'll find a post with pictures here I made a while back about this... silicone adhesive (flexible when dry) on the underside around the case button edges restricts their motion from accidental presses, yet allows enough motion to close the contacts on the circuit board switches.
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:06 PM
Ook!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
What does the American Constitution say a bout Cruel and Unusual punishment ? Its snowing like .... here you so&so

twaz good, but the music showed up the deficiencies of my laptop speakers, had to get the cans out to appreciate the evil base line
Mike
Tee hee, job done then - that drop at 1:43 gets me every time
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
That's cruel tom

thanks Skaffen , lucky man ! almost cruel like Empeabee quote


Agree ! -15 degC this morning, but zero wind... too nice
even with frost bite , i need to fly : excellent result with full sun light # 11 key chain !
http://vimeo.com/36233474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If you search this thread you'll find a post with pictures here I made a while back about this... silicone adhesive (flexible when dry) on the underside around the case button edges restricts their motion from accidental presses, yet allows enough motion to close the contacts on the circuit board switches.
Very Thanks I found http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...o#post19244519
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Was able to get another flight over the development the middle of the week. I can't wait for warm calm mornings for better flights. Oh well the groundhog says six weeks of winter to come. Will just have to pick and choose the good days.

Wrench_Head

Morning Flight Over School Lane Farms (9 min 35 sec)
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrench_Head View Post
Will just have to pick and choose the good days.Wrench_Head
WOW nice flight : that's a slow plane wich plane ?
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by befanello View Post
That link just goes to this thread, not the specific post. Here's the pic again:
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
WOW nice flight : that's a slow plane wich plane ?
ggtronic,
Sorry I posted this in the wrong thread. It should have been in the #16 Thread. It is a scratch built foamie.

Wrench_Head
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 03:52 PM
Just thumbing through...
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I'm still using a 120deg HK Wing lens, but will convert to M12 (per method on #16 thread)

Hopefully I will correct the focus on the left side. This is today

Fox EDF break-in (4 min 1 sec)
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
Thanks

The plane doesnt actualy made any miracle... IT WAS A PERFECT
ZERO wind condition, like you only see few times in your life : magic zero wind...

FALCON here

75% of this clip was normal speed... i only slow down low
pass shots between me & my girlfriend
Looks a nice stable platform for the #11 or 16 cams. I'd read that it could tip stall at slow speeds. Any issues with yours?
Andy
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Old Feb 05, 2012, 05:34 PM
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I am really glad you risked frostbite because that was beautiful.
May I download it for my future pleasure please?
Mike
P.S. did you protect the camera from the cold?



Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
That's cruel tom

thanks Skaffen , lucky man ! almost cruel like Empeabee quote


Agree ! -15 degC this morning, but zero wind... too nice
even with frost bite , i need to fly : excellent result with full sun light # 11 key chain !
http://vimeo.com/36233474
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 12:23 AM
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
I tried my best...


http://youtu.be/WhwG6yLYXlo
M U C H better than video shot through the prop! Thanks!
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Hi..

i got this camera months ago and i am quite happy with it... flashed it with the firmware wich removes time limit and time stamp

The thing is.. last 2 flights with it it did weird stuff..

first i used it to try a FPVish plane mounting it on the camera support with pan ..
forst flight it recorded well arround 1.1Gb and 24m of video.. but the second flight i found it started recording video but stoped like after 10 seconds..


Weird.. but couple of days ago (one week after) i did same flight .. and when reviewing the video i found out it had stoped recording in flight after just 17m ..

the battery was charged fully i presume (i usually left it some hours pluged into the USB after reviewing retrieving videos so it charges and the #11 as far as i know has automatic charge cut)..

the first thing that comes to my mind is cold.. both flights were done in a slope soares sloping in the coast with really cold winds coming in (arround 3ºC to 5ºC in ground.. maybe less in the air stream from the sea?) and the camera was totally exposed in the nose of the plane over a support over the pan servo..
Could the low temps make the voltage drop so it stoped recording? in both times the camera seemed able to switch on and record again after..
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 05:05 AM
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Could the low temps make the voltage drop so it stoped recording? in both times the camera seemed able to switch on and record again after..
That could be the case. The cell resistance of the battery (mine at least), is very high and low temperatures makes it worse.
I will use a 400mAh cell as external power. I tested it and got 85 mins recording, even if it's a worn out battery for Walkera helis.

Fred
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 05:24 AM
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in that case without replacing the battery or trying an external source..

Doing some insulation for the camera should help right?

im thinking in making a foamy box for it to go cushioned tought of course the front would still be exposed straight on...

What worried me is that theese were the first flights recorded since the firmware update.. fear of bug is in the air.. maybe i will try here in good warm indoor temps to see how long it can record
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 05:34 AM
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Doing some insulation for the camera should help right?
The camera produces some heat while recording, so that should work fine.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Did a test now indoors in a warm 27ºC (my office, they are crazy with the heater) .. it recorded abour 41m non stop totallin 2gb... its that normal with the stock battery?
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 07:59 AM
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Yesterday I got about 3:30 recording time with my #11 - the air temperature was -15 °C (5 °F) - after warming up to room temp it returned to normal 35:00. I will definitely look for addidtional power source - the insulation IMHO would be the nice looking thing , but it still leaves too much room for surprise.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Did a test now indoors in a warm 27ºC (my office, they are crazy with the heater) .. it recorded abour 41m non stop totallin 2gb... its that normal with the stock battery?
Yes...40 min on stock battery...
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 09:39 PM
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Hi all - first post here so please be easy...

After reading the first three posts and the ensuing extra pages, I purchased a #11 from hxelepro360 about a month ago to be used as a nanny camera. As well, I purchased a Just Mobile Gum Pro to use as the power source for extended recording time and a 16 gig class 4 Sandisk card for my memory.

I charged both products fully (the #11 until the red light went off and the Gum Pro until I had three green lights) and tested the camera itself. After recording a bit, I hooked up the camera to my computer and was able to play the short video on Quicktime without any problems.

I used the third "external power source" photo from this post --> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093 to hook up the camera and battery pack. In the third picture, it looks like a regular USB line coming out of the Gum Pro with a USB mini going into the #11. (As well, on the back of the GP, it says that output is from USB-A - which I assume just means a regular large USB end).

After getting home this evening, I noticed that the red power light was on, so I unhooked the GP from the camera and, after putting the baby to bed, hooked it up to the computer. The video came right on...my wife turning the camera on...and then thirty four minutes of recording. No two hours plus of recording time...

Clearly, I'm missing something here.

So I went back and reread post #2093 and noticed something about the "special" cable:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop
If you want to make long, continuous recordings, then your only option is to use the special cable. Together with a 32GB micro SD card and the "continuous firmware" you can expect up to 10 hours of recording using a suitable external USB power supply and recording at 7 Mb/s. I highly recommend the Just Mobile Gum Pro PP-08 (see picture below), but any other USB high power external battery power packs will also work. The "continuous firmware" will record a 4GB clip and then repeat the process until the battery reaches a given threshold (runs out of power) or the flash card is full. There is a 3-5 second gap (missed video) between the different clips. I have deliberately repeated this to make it absolutely clear.
So, am I using the "wrong cable?" The camera I have does not have the date present - I'm guessing that the updated firmware is installed (it said in the Ebay sales ad that it would be).

And if it really is just a "wrong cable," can I get one from somewhere here in the States (another member, another ebayer in the US, etc), or is this something that I'm going to have to wait another three weeks for after purchasing?

Further, is this Ebay ad really what I should be looking for - specifically, the cable on the far right lower side of the photo?

I certainly DO appreciate any and all help that you guys can give to me and I will try to answer any questions that you may have that could help solve my recording problem. Thanks a bunch.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:03 PM
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]...deleted. wrong info given.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Thanks for the quick - but now deleted - info.

Here is exactly what I received...nothing more, nothing less...

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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Thanks for the quick - but now deleted - info.

Here is exactly what I received...nothing more, nothing less...

The special cable is the short one that came with the external charger. Were you using that one?

(I guess you bought the "stripped down" camera version that didn't come with the car charger).
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The special cable is the short one that came with the external charger. Were you using that one?

(I guess you bought the "stripped down" camera version that didn't come with the car charger).
Yes.

Here is the actual setup...







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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Just ordered a
Mini DVR 808 Car Key Chain Micro Camera #16 Real HD 720P H.264 Pocket Camcorder from Seller information

Member ID accesseletech2010 with 99.7% positive feedback

Specifications:

•The latest design
•Model of 808 Car Key Chain Micro Camera, identified by Chuck Lohr’s web site as #16, and now it’s available !
•Lens model : 1/4” CMOS WXGA HD Sensor
•Format : / H.264/AVC1 DSP / Hynix 512M DDR2
•Battery : Rechargeable LIPO Battery (250mah), with Battery Charger Manage IC
•Video :
◦720P High definition : default 1280 x 720 , optional 848 x 480; 640 x 480
◦Frame number : 30 FPS
◦File Format : .MOV
◦Compression format : H.264/AVC1 video codec
•Photo : 1280*960 JPG (no degrading by upsizing to interpolated "5 megapixel" size)
•Memory : Use micro SD card supports up to 32GB ( memory card not included ) , suggest using Class 4 or above
•USB2.0, plug and play, easy connection with computers, no driver needed
•Super mini size, only around 50mm (L) x 32mm (W) x13mm (H)
•Super light-weighted: only approx 17g!
•Multifunction : 1.Mini DVR 2.Camera 3.Webcam ( with Microphone ) 4.Removable USB disk
Special about the 808 #16 camera :

1. A connector added for the internal battery, making it changeable by users who don’t like soldering. You don’t have to throw your camera away when the battery dies. You just need a new battery and change it!
2. A connector added to the lens/sensor module, make it possible to replace or upgrade it when new module's available.
3. New Lens and totally new circuit board design. You will see below improvements in video:
- Overall sharpness: improved
- White balance control / color shifting issue: improved
- Saturation / and contrast boost issue: colors look much more natural now
- Darker corner/edge vignetting issue: improved
4. Low battery buzzing artifact in video -Gone!
5. You only need one Standard USB Data cable for charging and data exchange with your computer. You don’t need another special charging cable to record videos while charging. Just one cable is OK.
6. It supports audio volume control, and you can even get it mute to save battery and helps to increase the recording time when the audio is not needed, it can be set by TXT config tool.
7. It supports optional Loop Recording, it can be set by TXT config tool.
8. You can set the date and time (white much smaller on the lower left corner), and toggle the date/time stamp on or off, by TXT config tool.
9. Sometimes you may don’t want 720P recording to save battery and memory card capacity, now you can toggle video output frame size from 1280x720 30fps (default), to 848x480 30fps, or 640x480 30fps.
10. Optional AVI output: we also have another firmware option available which will output .AVI file format, using the same H.264 codec, and it offers seamless recording (there is no lost video between clips). If you need it, please send a message to us, and we will send it to you by email.
11. And more. Please find more details in the PDF manual. And of course on RC Forum Tom Frank’s great thread, you will find lots of helpful information there.

My question is, Can this cam be modified with a transmitter and receiver to watch video live on a small monitor of goggles? Like FPV...
If so can anyone point me in the direction? The quality on these is amazing for the size
.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Yes.

Here is the actual setup...



...
Well that should work if the devices were both turned on and the cable and connections are good. It's possible you received a bad cable. With the camera turned off, does the camera LED light when you connect the external power?
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Well that should work if the devices were both turned on and the cable and connections are good. It's possible you received a bad cable. With the camera turned off, does the camera LED light when you connect the external power?
Yes. Well, after I turned on the GP switch, it just did for about 15 seconds, but it went out. (I'm guessing that means the camera is fully charged...?)
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 809Flyer View Post
Just ordered a
Mini DVR 808 Car Key Chain Micro Camera #16 Real HD 720P H.264 Pocket Camcorder...
My question is, Can this cam be modified with a transmitter and receiver to watch video live on a small monitor of goggles? .
No it can't.

FWIW, this thread is ONLY for the #11 camera, and there is a thread dedicated to the #16. But don't ask again there, please... the answer won't change
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Yes. Well, after I turned on the GP switch, it just did for about 15 seconds, but it went out. (I'm guessing that means the camera is fully charged...?)
The special cable bypasses the normal battery charging circuit and connects in parallel to the internal battery leads. My #11 cameras are non-functional, so I can't double check the LED duration anymore. Maybe another user can confirm, but your test does confirm the external pack is powering the camera, so the cable should be good. Have you tried more than one long duration recording?
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Also, towards the end of the actual recording, at about thirty minutes in, there were some crazy audio sounds - much like beeping and quick channel static - every few seconds till the end of the recording...??
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Also, towards the end of the actual recording, at about thirty minutes in, there were some crazy audio sounds - much like beeping and quick channel static - every few seconds till the end of the recording...??
That sound is an artifact of low power, so your camera appears to only be running off the internal battery for some reason. Will your camera start recording if you first power it with external power, then turn on the camera, then start a recording? If not, your special plug might be wired like a standard USB power cord, with +5V on pin #1 instead of pin #4 like the special cable. Do you have the ability to check the pin voltage?
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The special cable bypasses the normal battery charging circuit and connects in parallel to the internal battery leads. My #11 cameras are non-functional, so I can't double check the LED duration anymore. Maybe another user can confirm, but your test does confirm the external pack is powering the camera, so the cable should be good. Have you tried more than one long duration recording?
Nope. Today was the first time. I am off of work tomorrow, so I'll take some video of my daughter and see what's up...

I totally appreciate your help.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
That sound is an artifact of low power, so your camera appears to only be running off the internal battery for some reason. Will your camera start recording if you first power it with external power, then turn on the camera, then start a recording? If not, your special plug might be wired like a standard USB power cord, with +5V on pin #1 instead of pin #4 like the special cable. Do you have the ability to check the pin voltage?
When I have the camera plugged up to the GP, turn on the power to the GP, and then turn on the camera (quick press the back button), the yellow light comes on. When I then quick press the front record button, the light continually stays on.

I also just unplugged the camera from the GP and turned it on - same response with the yellow light. However, when I quick press the front shutter button to start recording, it blinks three times and goes out.



And yes, I do have a small multimeter...
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
When I have the camera plugged up to the GP, turn on the power to the GP, and then turn on the camera (quick press the back button), the yellow light comes on. When I then quick press the front record button, the light continually stays on.

I also just unplugged the camera from the GP and turned it on - same response with the yellow light. However, when I quick press the front shutter button to start recording, it blinks three times and goes out.



And yes, I do have a small multimeter...
The latter is what it's supposed to do when it starts to record (three flashes then off). The former is what happens when you use a standard USB cable... camera cannot go into recording mode if first powered by the USB cable. But if you start a recording first, and THEN plug in the USB cable, it will continue to record until the first stop/save/continue break, but will not then continue. The special cable gets around that limitation if it's wired with +5V on pin #4. This is describe in the FAQs.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The latter is what it's supposed to do when it starts to record (three flashes then off). The former is what happens when you use a standard USB cable... camera cannot go into recording mode if first powered by the USB cable. But if you start a recording first, and THEN plug in the USB cable, it will continue to record until the first stop/save/continue break, but will not then continue. The special cable gets around that limitation if it's wired with +5V on pin #4. This is describe in the FAQs.
Ok. So my cable won't work then it seems. And I also did just try another USB>mini plug and got the same response - so it seems that the plug that came with the GP is NOT the special cable.

Is there somebody I can order this special cord from without having to order from China and having to wait at least another three weeks?

But reading this:

Quote:
Simultaneous Charging and Recording using standard cables/adapters
It is possible to charge and record at the same time using standard cables/adapters, but there are limitations:
• With the standard Stop/Save/Continue firmware (with or without timestamp), the recording must be started before connecting the USB. The recording will stop as soon as the current 20 minute file is complete.
• With the Continuous Recording Firmware you can use standard USB cables as long as you start the recording before attaching the USB cable.
You will get approx. 80 minutes of video (4GB file).
The recording will always stop as soon as the current file size reaches 4GB
, so the actual recording time depends on the actual recording data rate (10 Mb/s or 7 Mb/s).
On some cameras you can switch from 10 Mb/s to 7 Mb/s by taking a picture immediately before starting a video recording. It has, however, been determined that the resulting video is of slightly inferior quality.
If your camera automatically records with 7 Mb/s, it is not possible to switch to 10 Mb/s.
I don't know if this "functionality" is due to different hardware or depends on the speed of the micro SD card.
...it seems like I CAN use the cable that came with the GP, but will only get about 80 minutes worth of record time. Ok. Plain enough. Is this true no matter what size the card is though? (ie, my 16 gig card will only record up to 4 gigs no matter what?) Here is the link to the actual Ebay item that I purchased...http://tinyurl.com/6pbvwle I'm guessing that I've got the Continuous Recording Firmware...
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Ok. So my cable won't work then it seems. And I also did just try another USB>mini plug and got the same response - so it seems that the plug that came with the GP is NOT the special cable.

Is there somebody I can order this special cord from without having to order from China and having to wait at least another three weeks?

But reading this:



...it seems like I CAN use the cable that came with the GP, but will only get about 80 minutes worth of record time. Ok. Plain enough. Is this true no matter what size the card is though? (ie, my 16 gig card will only record up to 4 gigs no matter what?) Here is the link to the actual Ebay item that I purchased...http://tinyurl.com/6pbvwle I'm guessing that I've got the Continuous Recording Firmware...
You are limited to 4GB single file size by the FAT32 file system the card uses. The size of the card cannot change that. And as you read, that version of the firmware does not restart a new file, but it doesn't matter if you don't have the special cable since none of the file clip length versions of the firmware will start a new file and continue when power by an external power source without the special cable.

The only way to tell what version of the firmware you have is to do a recording and see what the individual file clip length is when it does a stop/save/continue function.

There's no other source for the pre-made special cables other than your camera vendor (or any of the 11 other companion eBay vendors, all of which source the cables from the same China wholsaler.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 03:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Discussion of these larger jumbo cameras started back in post #4351, plus I previously added an update to post #2 about this version . Case sizes are 65x35x18mm or 70x34x18mm depending on what style you picked (compare to the original 51x32x14mm case). The jumbos are functionally identical to the original #11 v3... just have different circuit board layout and larger case to accomodate the larger battery. Recording durations vary from 90 min to 120 min. per the developer. The firmware is identical, and the flash card inserts into a card holder just like before (shown on the web page you linked). The "you’d better use the SDH4 FILSH MEMORY High-Speed card" just means you should use a CL4 (minimum) micro SDHC flash memory card.
I asked the seller the same question.
When a 4G file is made,the camera will stop and save all data,even if battery goes dead.It then has to be restarted manually for the next 4G.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
Ok. So my cable won't work then it seems. And I also did just try another USB>mini plug and got the same response - so it seems that the plug that came with the GP is NOT the special cable.

Is there somebody I can order this special cord from without having to order from China and having to wait at least another three weeks?

But reading this:



...it seems like I CAN use the cable that came with the GP, but will only get about 80 minutes worth of record time. Ok. Plain enough. Is this true no matter what size the card is though? (ie, my 16 gig card will only record up to 4 gigs no matter what?) Here is the link to the actual Ebay item that I purchased...http://tinyurl.com/6pbvwle I'm guessing that I've got the Continuous Recording Firmware...
Like Tom says, you absolutely must use a special cable if you want more than 70 minutes continuous recording. It's a pity you didn't buy the #16. The #16 doesn't need a special cable.

If you have a spare USB cable to cut off one end and a mini USB plug with 5 solder pins it's no big deal to make the special cable from the diagram in the post you referenced. My only suggestion for a fast solution is to find somebody who 1. has the mini USB plug (with 5 solder connections), and 2. can solder. But beware - many mini USB plugs only have 4 solder points because pin #4 is normally not used.

It's too bad I'm not in the US, otherwise I could easily have made up and sent you a special cable. Maybe someone in the US with a spare special cable will PM you?

You've made a good choice in purchasing the Gum Pro, it will give you well over 10 hours of "power" at your fingertips.

BTW, the special cable is unique to the #11. No external battery packs will ever include this cable, unless, possibly, you buy them from a #11 seller.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Like Tom says, you absolutely must use a special cable if you want more than 70 minutes continuous recording. It's a pity you didn't buy the #16. The #16 doesn't need a special cable.

If you have a spare USB cable to cut off one end and a mini USB plug with 5 solder pins it's no big deal to make the special cable from the diagram in the post you referenced. My only suggestion for a fast solution is to find somebody who 1. has the mini USB plug (with 5 solder connections), and 2. can solder. But beware - many mini USB plugs only have 4 solder points because pin #4 is normally not used.

It's too bad I'm not in the US, otherwise I could easily have made up and sent you a special cable. Maybe someone in the US with a spare special cable will PM you?

You've made a good choice in purchasing the Gum Pro, it will give you well over 10 hours of "power" at your fingertips.

BTW, the special cable is unique to the #11. No external battery packs will ever include this cable, unless, possibly, you buy them from a #11 seller.
I guess this is where my confusion lies...the "special" cable must - according to the first photo in post 2093 - have a 5 pin mini end and a 4 pin regular USB end.

Here are the two ends of the cable that came with the GP -

Mini end:



Regular USB end:



The mini end has 5 pins and the regular end has four pins - just like the photo illustration shows that it's supposed to have.

In fact, every regular>mini USB cable that I have (a total of four) has the same configuration.

Perhaps I should just order the #16...
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
I guess this is where my confusion lies...the "special" cable must - according to the first photo in post 2093 - have a 5 pin mini end and a 4 pin regular USB end.

Here are the two ends of the cable that came with the GP -

Mini end:



Regular USB end:



The mini end has 5 pins and the regular end has four pins - just like the photo illustration shows that it's supposed to have.

In fact, every regular>mini USB cable that I have (a total of four) has the same configuration.

Perhaps I should just order the #16...
The NORMAL standard USB cable only uses four wires, two for data transfer and two for power (+5V and ground). The mini-USB plug end has 5 possible connections, but Pin #4 (a.k.a. Pin X in some jargon) is not normally used. With the #11 SPECIAL cable, pin #4 IS used for the #5V connection instead of the normal connection point on pin #1, which is not use with the SPECIAL cable. The large regular 4-pin USB plug is the same on both STANDARD and SPECIAL cables. The only difference is where the +5V lead is connected on the mini-USB plug end.

As a minimum, I'd contact your eBay seller and report the SPECIAL cable problem. They should replace the one you have since it's not wired correctly apparently.

FWIW, the #16 is a MUCH more versatile camera with many user configuration toggles that don't require flashing in ne firmware, and MUCH better, natural looking and stable colors in the video.
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacbzz View Post
I guess this is where my confusion lies...the "special" cable must - according to the first photo in post 2093 - have a 5 pin mini end and a 4 pin regular USB end.

Here are the two ends of the cable that came with the GP -

Mini end:

Regular USB end:

The mini end has 5 pins and the regular end has four pins - just like the photo illustration shows that it's supposed to have.

In fact, every regular>mini USB cable that I have (a total of four) has the same configuration.

Perhaps I should just order the #16...
If you look at the diagram in the post you originally referred to, you will see the mini USB always has 5 pins, but how they are connected is important. I thought I was clear when I said solder pins, but I guess I should have stated that there are always 5 real pins, unless pin #4, sometimes called pin x, has been cut (not very common, but I guess possible).

I'll repost the pinout which you may have missed in the original posting. This is the wiring for the special cable.



On a standard USB cable, VCC +5V is connected to pin #1 on the mini USB end, and not to pin #4 (pin x).
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 03:48 AM
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#11 on a tricopter

have a look at my best efforts with a #11 cam on my tricopter while learning to fly it

go to you tube / search / teccer1234

it took a while to stop the jello effect but I think I go it now

thanks
Ray
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I should have stated that there are always 5 real pins, unless pin #4, sometimes called pin x, has been cut (not very common, but I guess possible).
I just dismantled 2 different computer USB/miniUSB cables hoping to resolder a positive wire from pin1 to pin4 - unfortunately both mini plugs have only 4 pins at soldering side (1, 2 3 and 5). So i guess full 5-pin mini USB plug can be hard to find in commonly used cables.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4volvo View Post
I just dismantled 2 different computer USB/miniUSB cables hoping to resolder a positive wire from pin1 to pin4 - unfortunately both mini plugs have only 4 pins at soldering side (1, 2 3 and 5). So i guess full 5-pin mini USB plug can be hard to find in commonly used cables.
Yes, this is indeed a problem. Many electronic shops also only sell mini USB plugs with 5 pins but only 4 solder connections. I guess they can save 0.05 cents for each plug in the manufacturing process. So, before buying, always double check the specifications. I ordered mine from China, both right angled and straight, and they all have 5 pins and 5 solder connections. If you are fairly new to soldering, I suggest buying more than you need, just in case you botch up on one or two or three...
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Yes, this is indeed a problem. Many electronic shops also only sell mini USB plugs with 5 pins but only 4 solder connections. I guess they can save 0.05 cents for each plug in the manufacturing process. So, before buying, always double check the specifications. I ordered mine from China, both right angled and straight, and they all have 5 pins and 5 solder connections. If you are fairly new to soldering, I suggest buying more than you need, just in case you botch up on one or two or three...
I've been soldering for over half a century, and still over buy so I can still get the job done when I DO botch one up
Mike
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 06:35 AM
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Anybody tried this? http://www.dealextreme.com/p/handy-u...6-l7-v3i-21693 Looks like various Motorola phones use the same charging cable configuration as #11 with pins 4 and 5, but not all DX cables sold as "charging" do their job - this one is confirmed.
EDIT: my mistake - this cable is not suitable for #11.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4volvo View Post
Anybody tried this? http://www.dealextreme.com/p/handy-u...6-l7-v3i-21693 Looks like various Motorola phones use the same charging cable configuration as #11 with pins 4 and 5, but not all DX cables sold as "charging" do their job - this one is confirmed.
Where do you see the cable uses pin #4 and #5?
I don't have a V3, but I can guarantee that a V6 uses a standard charging cable because that's the charger I use for my #11 and #16 (charging only, not recording).

I doubt very, very much that the V3 uses pin #4 and #5 (the other pins must be disconnected). But why all this hassle? Just ask your #11 seller to send you a couple, I'm sure they won't be that expensive. - or ask your friendly local electronic store if they could solder you one. No harm in asking!
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
I've been soldering for over half a century, and still over buy so I can still get the job done when I DO botch one up
Mike
Me too, but I usually get it right on the second or third attempt. I had a LOT LESS problems soldering the sockets for those ECC 83s, EBC 90s and co. In those days one could understand what a circuit actually did and you could see what you were soldering without using a magnifying glass or microscope. I don't know why I still keep them, I doubt they'll be any use in my #11

V A L V E S

Sorry, totally OT. I won't be naughty again
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
..
V A L V E S
(for thems on 'tother side of 't pond) T U B E S .
Sorry, totally OT. I won't be naughty again
KT88 Sorry, totally OT. I won't be naughty again Mike
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 01:42 PM
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#11 external power plug

The small blue #11 emergency charger shown in this post used to be sold separately for a few US$. It has the necessary #11 plug terminations, with a standard mini phono plug on the other end. You can also check with the eBay vendors in post #2 to see if they still sell these separately for the #11 camera.

I pirated the cable from one of these to make my own external power supply. You can either cut the cord and solder on your own termination, or keep the phono plug and make an appropriate extension, keeping the cord useable with the emergency charger. The charger function is a bit flakey (see posts early in this thread) though, because the phono plug is undersized for the jack it fits into, but at least the phono plugs make it easy to check the voltage polarity with a multimeter!
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Where do you see the cable uses pin #4 and #5?(...)
I doubt very, very much that the V3 uses pin #4 and #5!
Indeed I misunderstood the whole concept of Moto V3 charging. Although pin X is used (so it must be present in mini USB plug) , there is no VCC on it. Sorry for misinformation.
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Old Feb 09, 2012, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4volvo View Post
Indeed I misunderstood the whole concept of Moto V3 charging. Although pin X is used (so it must be present in mini USB plug) , there is no VCC on it. Sorry for misinformation.
I have a camera cord like that. They must ground the pin#4, or something like that so the camera can recogize you are not using their dedicated cable, forcing you to buy theirs. I have a cord that will not charge either my #11 or #16 camera, but will charge the camera it came with!
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 04:23 AM
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According to allpinouts.org and other sources, Moto V3 uses pin X as signalling pin telling the phone to charge - with normal data cable charging is activated by the win driver:

1 +5 VDC PC USB Pin 1 (+5 VDC).
2 USB Data- shorted to pin x in charger cable.
3 USB Data+ NC - Not Connected
X Shorted to pin 2; shorted to pin 4 via 165KOhm resistor in charge cable.
4 GND PC USB pin 4 (GND). Shorted to pin X via 165KOhm resistor in charge cable.

(note different naming for pins - we use 1,2,3,X,5).

So the DX cable I linked before (or other "Moto V3 type" charging cable from old car charger etc) most probably has "solderable" pin X and could be used in DIY #11 special cable.
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazy4volvo View Post
According to allpinouts.org and other sources, Moto V3 uses pin X as signalling pin telling the phone to charge - with normal data cable charging is activated by the win driver:

1 +5 VDC PC USB Pin 1 (+5 VDC).
2 USB Data- shorted to pin x in charger cable.
3 USB Data+ NC - Not Connected
X Shorted to pin 2; shorted to pin 4 via 165KOhm resistor in charge cable.
4 GND PC USB pin 4 (GND). Shorted to pin X via 165KOhm resistor in charge cable.

(note different naming for pins - we use 1,2,3,X,5).

So the DX cable I linked before (or other "Moto V3 type" charging cable from old car charger etc) most probably has "solderable" pin X and could be used in DIY #11 special cable.
Are you trying to say we should open the plug and rearange the wiring?
I doubt very, very, very much that it's possible to open the plug. These plugs are usually sealed (melted) together. The V3 has a totally incorrect pinout, for example pin #1 is +5V instead of being not connected, pin #2 is shorted instead of being not connected, but worst of all, pin 4 (x) is shorted to pin 5 (4) via a resistor.

I would say chances are 1 to 100 that you could use the plug, and don't even consider using this cable for the #11 - you would be shorting the battery!!!

DON'T EVEN CONSIDER USING THIS CABLE. BANG goes your battery and/or camera or you cable and/or camera may catch fire.

Only use the special cable designed specifically for the #11. Don't even think of using any other non-standard USB cable.
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 03:22 PM
seahorse41
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special cable pinouts

Hi Tom and Isoprop,
I spent hours this morning testing adapter cables that came with a new external LiPo, to figure out which pins go where, and it wasn't until I found a huge inconsistancy on your post# 1020 for the #16
The definite Guide to Power connectors http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20401640&postcount=1020
That I figured out why I'm having so much trouble. The picture Std_USB_Cable.png shows the Mini socket upside down, thus reversing pins 1-5. Or alternatively, it is showing the cable view, not the socket view.
The error became obvious when comparing to the picture just above it Pin4Removed.jpg highlighting the location of pin#4.
This causes a huge bit of confusion, as the post# 2093 here for the #11
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093
also shows the Mini socket view upside down, or shows the cable view and not the socket view.. USB_Special_Cable_11.gif

Now I want to know which is correct, without breaking open my #11 special cable for auto 12V plug. I don't see how to open it. (No screws visible.)

Stewart

[EDIT]Removed incorrect picture.[/EDIT]
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Last edited by seahorse41; Feb 11, 2012 at 09:55 AM.
Old Feb 10, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse41 View Post
Hi Tom and Isoprop,
I spent hours this morning testing adapter cables that came with a new external LiPo, to figure out which pins go where, and it wasn't until I found a huge inconsistancy on your post# 1020 for the #16
The definite Guide to Power connectors http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20401640&postcount=1020
That I figured out why I'm having so much trouble. The picture Std_USB_Cable.png shows the Mini socket upside down, thus reversing pins 1-5. Or alternatively, it is showing the cable view, not the socket view.
The error became obvious when comparing to the picture just above it Pin4Removed.jpg highlighting the location of pin#4.
This causes a huge bit of confusion, as the post# 2093 here for the #11
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093
also shows the Mini socket view upside down, or shows the cable view and not the socket view.. USB_Special_Cable_11.gif
So anybody soldering their own special cable could get it wrong
Now I want to know which is correct, without breaking open my #11 special cable for auto 12V plug. I don't see how to open it. (No screws visible.)

Do you concur this corrected picture attached is the correct layout, if you want to keep Socket view?

Stewart
Your picture shows the correct location of pin #4 on the USB mini socket looking into the camera, which matches the actual photograph of the camera socket showing pin #4 removed. I can attest that is pin #4, because I plugged a #11 special cable into my pre-production #16 camera (before they removed pin #4, which was connected to ground), and got instant shorting and desoldering of the pin on the cable plug. Fortunately the camera socket had enough circuit board for a heat sink to prevent any damage to the camera!

Thanks for pointing out the discrepancy. I'm sure Isoprop will quickly correct the sketch.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 03:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse41 View Post
Hi Tom and Isoprop,
I spent hours this morning testing adapter cables that came with a new external LiPo, to figure out which pins go where, and it wasn't until I found a huge inconsistancy on your post# 1020 for the #16
The definite Guide to Power connectors http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20401640&postcount=1020
That I figured out why I'm having so much trouble. The picture Std_USB_Cable.png shows the Mini socket upside down, thus reversing pins 1-5. Or alternatively, it is showing the cable view, not the socket view.
The error became obvious when comparing to the picture just above it Pin4Removed.jpg highlighting the location of pin#4.
This causes a huge bit of confusion, as the post# 2093 here for the #11
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093
also shows the Mini socket view upside down, or shows the cable view and not the socket view.. USB_Special_Cable_11.gif
So anybody soldering their own special cable could get it wrong
Now I want to know which is correct, without breaking open my #11 special cable for auto 12V plug. I don't see how to open it. (No screws visible.)

Do you concur this corrected picture attached is the correct layout, if you want to keep Socket view?

Stewart
The original pinout is correct! You are confusing the mini USB plug and the mini USB socket. In the #16 post, the circled pin #4 is the socket (on the camera), not the plug (on the cable).
I use the pinout all the time for reference and can assure you it is 100% correct.

The view is from the socket end (like is written), not the solder end.
If you look at the picture immediately below the pinout, you will very clearly see how the wires are connected, exactly as in the pinout above it - it plugs into the socket, so it's called the socket end. BTW, many other diagrams you'll find on the internet also call it the socket end! I thaught if I also included the actual picture of the plug, this would make things clear - apparently not. I don't know how to explain it better.

The picture you attached is very, very wrong

Both posts you refer to - the camera socket and the cable plug - are correct.
Be assured that if I publish something so important I make sure it is correct by trying it out myself. I have made well over 10 cables from the published diagram.

Most prefabricated cables have sealed (melted together) plugs. There's no way you can open them.

[EDIT] OK, maybe I see where you are confused. The text says "View from socket end". Obviously, this isn't the socket on the camera - it's where it plugs into the socket. I don't know how to rephrase this. "View from plug end" or "View from open end" or "view from end opposite solder joints" is even more confusing.... Maybe "View from end which connects to socket" is better....but isn't that the same?[/EDIT]
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Last edited by Isoprop; Feb 11, 2012 at 06:35 AM.
Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:36 AM
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Question about Li-xx cell inside #11 808 key cam

I bought the #11 808 Key cam from hxelepro or Diana's store on Ebay.
The description says it uses a Li-ion 250mah cell,but on the 1st page of the thread it says it uses a Li-Po.
Does it use a Li-ion or Li-Po cell?It may be able to use a Li-Po cell,but is the charging system that comes with key cam made for charging Li-Po's.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse41 View Post
Hi Tom and Isoprop,
I spent hours this morning testing adapter cables that came with a new external LiPo, to figure out which pins go where, and it wasn't until I found a huge inconsistancy on your post# 1020 for the #16
The definite Guide to Power connectors http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20401640&postcount=1020
That I figured out why I'm having so much trouble. The picture Std_USB_Cable.png shows the Mini socket upside down, thus reversing pins 1-5. Or alternatively, it is showing the cable view, not the socket view.
The error became obvious when comparing to the picture just above it Pin4Removed.jpg highlighting the location of pin#4.
This causes a huge bit of confusion, as the post# 2093 here for the #11
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2093
also shows the Mini socket view upside down, or shows the cable view and not the socket view.. USB_Special_Cable_11.gif
So anybody soldering their own special cable could get it wrong
Now I want to know which is correct, without breaking open my #11 special cable for auto 12V plug. I don't see how to open it. (No screws visible.)

Do you concur this corrected picture attached is the correct layout, if you want to keep Socket view?

Stewart
If you have a voltmeter that tests for continuity,you can find which pin in USB connects with the pin in the micro USB.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:51 AM
seahorse41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
In the #16 post, the circled pin #4 is the socket (on the camera), not the plug (on the cable).
Yes, that does match my definition for the words socket and plug.
However we can not call "Sockets" both on the camera and on the cable.

Once the socket terminology is consistent, then I agree your pictures of the male cable plugs are correct, and my attachment can be deleted.

I see now I Did overlook a detail, and that was the USB A was not the socket view after all.

Sorry for the confusion
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 09:58 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
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Hmmm. Now I wish I would have marked it as a special cable. I guess I've got to locate that "special #11 cable" in my USB cable box. Now using the #16 more often so I'm rapidly losing my grayware on this one @Tom: This probably deserves big letters in your first post please
Thanks and Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
Only use the special cable designed specifically for the #11. Don't even think of using any other non-standard USB cable.
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Old Feb 11, 2012, 10:32 AM
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Just received the W-67 wide lens from Dealextreme to use it on my #11
Not too bad, I'd say.
Here is short video

http://youtu.be/9wp39SUcwHw?hd=1
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
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I had an accident with my jumbo #11. It won't charge any more even the battery is still fine (100mins of recording)

It happened when I was trying to charge it on my desk. Instead of plugged in the USB charger that came with the keychain cam, I grabbed the wrong cable which is my mobile USB charger. Red LED came on and I didn't notice that I plugged in the wrong cable. (Don't leave your desk messy with cables lol)

I found out 3 hours later because red LED won't go off. The cam wasn't hot. But I assumed it might be okay since the red LED was on. However, when I tried to record, it recorded only few seconds then died. I tried to charge again with its original USB charger but the same thing happened. Red LED never goes off, and it wasn't charged at all.

My mobile USB charger output is 5v 1000mA. Same pin layout as computer USB port. It is the standard one that I use to connect to all my USB devices without any problem, but accidentially first time for #11.

The original #11 charger generates 5v 300-400mA,
and computer USB port generates 5v 500mA.

Any suggestions?
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Joined Feb 2009
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The higher amps capacity will not hurt the camera. I have used a 2000ma charger, no problem if 5 volts. Sounds more likely the camera did not accept a charge.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The higher amps capacity will not hurt the camera. I have used a 2000ma charger, no problem if 5 volts. Sounds more likely the camera did not accept a charge.
While it will not hurt the actual camera,, I don't think that a 2 amp charging rate is doing the little battery any good. It might even blow out any protection that the little board is giving the battery.
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Old Feb 12, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Could be true, but normally volts are pushed, amps are pulled. I was also thinking that the little protective circuit on the battery might have fried. It did happen on one of my older #7 cams. Symptoms were a bit different, it would not allow sufficient power to run the camera, even if the battery voltage was correct.

I removed the circuit on the battery and it worked fine. I converted the camera for external power after that.
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Last edited by victapilot; Feb 12, 2012 at 11:38 AM.
Old Feb 12, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrafalgarLaw View Post
I had an accident with my jumbo #11. It won't charge any more even the battery is still fine (100mins of recording)
...
However, when I tried to record, it recorded only few seconds then died. I tried to charge again with its original USB charger but the same thing happened. Red LED never goes off, and it wasn't charged at all.
...
Any suggestions?
Have you tried to check the voltage on the battery tabs (inside the yellow tape, before they connect to the small battery protection circuitboard)?. Or tried a different battery? You say the battery is still fine, but it can't power the camera. Maybe it WAS fine, but then developed an internal high resistance from plating, or worse, a bridged short from plate deposits. So it wouldn't be able charge easily or at all, or could not deliver the amps the camera needs to operate while still holding the voltage high enough for the circuit components to function. This is how lipos typically die with use.

Start trouble shooting by ruling out one possibility at a time. I'd remove the battery and connect a spare, then start a charge cycle with a standard USB cable an see if THAT battery can be charged. While that's going on you can check the voltage on the battery tabs.
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Old Feb 13, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Have you tried to check the voltage on the battery tabs (inside the yellow tape, before they connect to the small battery protection circuitboard)?. Or tried a different battery? You say the battery is still fine, but it can't power the camera. Maybe it WAS fine, but then developed an internal high resistance from plating, or worse, a bridged short from plate deposits. So it wouldn't be able charge easily or at all, or could not deliver the amps the camera needs to operate while still holding the voltage high enough for the circuit components to function. This is how lipos typically die with use.

Start trouble shooting by ruling out one possibility at a time. I'd remove the battery and connect a spare, then start a charge cycle with a standard USB cable an see if THAT battery can be charged. While that's going on you can check the voltage on the battery tabs.
Thanks for your guide, Tom. I don't have any of the jumbo spare battery nor volt meter. However, I found out the same exact case from Beamen's post.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post19432810

Also Isoprop's post mentioned that there are 2 independent charging circuits.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post19314300

I tried charging it with special cable and it works! The battery is chargable now. It is able to take at least 20 mins of video. (I manually stopped the recording to see if it works)

I guess using 3rd party charger might damage the internal primary charger circuit. The only way left to use it is to charge with the secondary charging circuit through special cable.

This thread has so much useful information! Thanks all
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