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Old Jan 22, 2012, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The Rel 2 firmware should be saving files on low battery power. Some Rel 1 firmware did not.
Could be an unhealthy battery, voltage drop is faster than normal, it might get the signal to close and save but has not enough juice left and simply blacks out.

If that happened, I think the front button would not stop the recording as usual, and the led would not come back on. However, the led might come back on with the power button because the battery might recover enough.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 12:49 AM
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
Guys I need help. My #11 arrived today from digitalele889. But when I connect it to my MAC nothing happens (apart from the red charge light).

I've tried turning the camera on before and after connecting to the Mac but it makes no difference. The orange light turns on and it appears to enter video mode/photo mode when it is supposed to so why won't my computer detect it? [Snow Leopard 10.7.2]
Bad cable or USB port?
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
Guys I need help. My #11 arrived today from digitalele889. But when I connect it to my MAC nothing happens (apart from the red charge light).

I've tried turning the camera on before and after connecting to the Mac but it makes no difference. The orange light turns on and it appears to enter video mode/photo mode when it is supposed to so why won't my computer detect it? [Snow Leopard 10.7.2]
I'm not a Mac guy and I've never used a Mac, but I couldn't resist...
My first problem was I think you meant you have "Lion" and not "Snow Leopard".
I've learned something new today...

I don't have a Mac, so I installed 10.7.2 Lion onto one of my test PCs (I was lucky things went so smoothly - Google is your friend).
I connected my #11 and it was recognized immediately, within a few seconds.
However, Qicktime couldn't play the MOV files - Told me an unknow error occured! No comment...

Then I connected the #11 as a webcam (camera was recognized within a few seconds) and launched FaceCam (I just clicked the icon that looked most like a camara!). Worked perfectly.

Curiosity killed the cat - well, not quite.
I then installed Snow Leopard 10.6.8.
This time Quicktime accepted my MOV file. It showed the first frame, but refused to play! No comment...

Anyway, no comment on my first Mac experience, but I have better uses for my PC. It was an interesting experiment though.

I agree that my PC wasn't a "real" Mac, but I find it very strange that the original Mac Quicktime couldn't play my MOV files.

Back OT.
So, like Tom suggested, you must have a cable problem. OR, maybe pushing things a bit too far, my PC Mac didn't recognize the camera when I connected it to the USB 3 (High Speed, blue) socket - but that's most probably due to a missing driver...

Did Webcam mode work for you?
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 04:34 AM
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Hi Tom Frank

Did you get any more information at all about updated firmware for the #11 camera to address the colour hunting problem?

Thanks for your efforts
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 05:07 AM
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
Thanks guys for the suggestions. It was indeed bad USB cables (can you believe it both cables?). Lucky I had a spare from my external hard drive.
Good news is the camera works okay though I'm disappointed it has date/time stamp.

LOL I don't even know the name of my OS

....
Glad your camera works on your Mac. It could well be that your USB cables which didn't work were "charge-only" cables, i.e. only two wires connected instead of 4, or even the #11 "special" cable (also only 2 wires).

The date/time stamp shouldn't be a problem. You only need to install the new firmware found here. Most probably "Rel2 - Remove Time - 70 min.zip" is your best choice, otherwise "Rel2 - Remove Time - 20 min.zip".
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 07:07 AM
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Tom,

1. Do I have to have the micro card totally empty with only the firmware file on it? .Having a hard time loading it.

2. I read that the camera is always in a state of discharge. Does this mean that the camera is never truly off?
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by hidaven View Post
Tom,

1. Do I have to have the micro card totally empty with only the firmware file on it? .Having a hard time loading it.

2. I read that the camera is always in a state of discharge. Does this mean that the camera is never truly off?
1. Yes. The 'root' of the card is just empty card. (Delete the file after loading new firmware.)
2. The clock has to be powered but it's a very very tiny current drain.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by billhally View Post
Hi Tom Frank

Did you get any more information at all about updated firmware for the #11 camera to address the colour hunting problem?

Thanks for your efforts
No, and as I've mentioned previously, it is going to be some time IF it happens at all since the focus right now is on completing the work on the #16 firmware. And after that maybe the new 1080p camera firmware. As soon as I know any thing about any #11 firmware upgrades, I will post it here!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 23, 2012 at 01:56 PM.
Old Jan 23, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Tom,

1. Do I have to have the micro card totally empty with only the firmware file on it? .Having a hard time loading it.
...
To extrapolate just a bit on bobflyman's reply, if your card is totally empty and all you can see on it is the firmware file, then Bob is right... it's in the flash card root directory where it needs to be. But there can be other files/folders there as well, and it will not prevent the firmware from being loaded. The file name must NOT be changed, though, or it will not be recognized as a camera firmware file and it will not load.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 01:53 PM
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Hi, all.

I recently got a #11 Jumbo keychain camera, to be used on my Easystar and SkySurfer planes. From vendor hxelepro360 in Hong Kong, auction number 320815995786.

And just a few days ago I ordered a Transcend 32GB Class-10 SDHC memory card for it. Auction number 190615002096.

From the numerous posts in this thread, I know that's probably far more memory capacity than I will ever need, of course. Even the big battery in the Jumbo can't keep the camera going in full HD mode, long enough to fill it up. But I believe in having more capacity than you need.

Capacity aside, (and aside from the new #16 supercams), did I do good?
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:04 PM
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I use a 4gb transcend class 10, and it works fine. There are a number of things you can do to check your card, see first posts. Only question is if it is genuine.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Hi, all.

I recently got a #11 Jumbo keychain camera, to be used on my Easystar and SkySurfer planes. From vendor hxelepro360 in Hong Kong, auction number 320815995786.

And just a few days ago I ordered a Transcend 32GB Class-10 SDHC memory card for it. Auction number 190615002096.

From the numerous posts in this thread, I know that's probably far more memory capacity than I will ever need, of course. Even the big battery in the Jumbo can't keep the camera going in full HD mode, long enough to fill it up. But I believe in having more capacity than you need.

Capacity aside, (and aside from the new #16 supercams), did I do good?
You probably did not see this post I just made over in the #16 thread. It's a different camera, but the flash card comments apply to the #11 as well. You spent more money than necessary, not necessarily on the capacity, but for the Class 10 speed class, which gains you nothing! You should be OK with the Transcend card, but some brand Class 10 cards are showing some incompatibility issues with the #16 cameras. For the reasons you mentioned about not being able to fill a card that big, my personal preference is for more, smaller capacity cards rather than one huge one, because:

1. I might have another camera or other evice that could use the extra cards.

2. The card might go bad one day (it happens) and I'll have spare cards to use.

3. Or the card might accidentally eject itself from the reader if subjected to any kind of impact (has happened!... put a wrap of tape around the camera over the card slot to prevent this!).

4. Depending on current pricing and store sales, you might be able to get, for example, four 8GB cards for less cost than one 32 GB card.

A side issue with flash card bought from eBay is their authenticity... there are ripoffs advertised and also name brand cards which did not pass QC and may not hold their labelled capacity. Check the FAQ for card integrity and speed test utilties you can download (free) to make sure your card is fully functional. And even then, the Class 10 card structure can cause some compatibility issue as mentioned above. Class 4 cards is usually enough, and Class 6 definitely enough.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 23, 2012 at 02:24 PM. Reason: more info and clarification
Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:18 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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I'm still here

Hey Guys,

I'm still hanging around but haven't been posting much since that lousy NAKELP86 got me into trying to fly FPV

But Sarge has also been kind of quite. You may remember his rotocopter and the Albino SuperHero. Not to mention his "Dave" flying thingamagig.

Then he also had a spectular failure with his styrofoam heat seeking missile which I'm still trying to edit.

But here is the newest foam flyer from Sarge. The Condor XXL !

Good thing I had my HD keyfob along

Enjoy

Sarge's XXL Condor (3 min 58 sec)


Yabba
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Hi Yabba,

That's a really nice model, a great video too. I think you have one of the best cameras, maybe got it before they went into mass production.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Hi Yabba,

That's a really nice model, a great video too. I think you have one of the best cameras, maybe got it before they went into mass production.
Hi Vic,

Long time no talk to.

Yeah, my cameras seem to be really well focused and the color hunting isn't too bad. I know Tom feels that mine (and most) are a little over saturated on the color balance but I like them the way they are. The other day was pretty overcast however and the image quality went to heck. But as long as there is descent light levels I really like them and have seen no reason to go to the new #16's yet.

I did have to replace both bateries within a couple of weeks of each other but they were both the original batteries from when I first got the cameras back at the beginning of this thread.

Anyway, I'm still here and reading every post so don't say nothing bad about

Yabba
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Hey Guys,

...
But here is the newest foam flyer from Sarge. The Condor XXL !

Good thing I had my HD keyfob along
...
Yabba
I was hoping to see some AV from the Condor! I scratch-built the small "eagle-size" version and it's one of my favorite relaxing flyers as well as an AV platfor. It glides so well, handles wind beautifully, and flies with hardly any power at all... mine can fly for 1/2 hour pretty easily with a 1300 mAh 3S lipo (I land because my neck starts to get stiff looking up high so much!).

I also mount my key cams under the "chin", but pointing aft (couldn't tell if Sarge does this, too) to get the prop out of the camera frame. The downward camera angle is perfect for high altitude AV, and if the video is reversed as well as rotated during editing, it demonstrates my great skill at "hand grab landings"!
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Hi Vic,

Long time no talk to.

Yeah, my cameras seem to be really well focused and the color hunting isn't too bad. I know Tom feels that mine (and most) are a little over saturated on the color balance but I like them the way they are. The other day was pretty overcast however and the image quality went to heck. But as long as there is descent light levels I really like them and have seen no reason to go to the new #16's yet.

I did have to replace both bateries within a couple of weeks of each other but they were both the original batteries from when I first got the cameras back at the beginning of this thread.

Anyway, I'm still here and reading every post so don't say nothing bad about

Yabba
Yabba,

Another excellent video! I like the kodak color.

Bill
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You probably did not see this post I just made over in the #16 thread. It's a different camera, but the flash card comments apply to the #11 as well.
Hmmm, no I didn't see it, but now I have read it. You make some points worth noting.

However, now it's on the way, so I guess I'll just wait and see how it performs. Yes it cost a little more, but aside from that, I figure "no blood, no foul." I'll run those tests on it when it gets here, and see how it does.

I note that, on a different camera I've had for a while (a non-HD 808, not a #11), its instructions described vaguely how to put a small text file on the camera's root directory with date and time info, and the next time you turn on the camera it will get read and the date and time will appear on the subsequently-shot video. Some people don't want that feature, but I like it. I did as the instructions said, took several tries, but I got the date/time going on that 808 camera.

On this #11 Jumbo camera I just got, I see there is no mention of any such small file, or any date/time info at all. Anybody know if this Jumbo #11 camera can put date/time on the video display?

It (the new #11) does make a nice video display, I just tried it with an old 8GB SD card I had. Big, crisp, and clear!
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
...
I note that, on a different camera I've had for a while (a non-HD 808, not a #11), its instructions described vaguely how to put a small text file on the camera's root directory with date and time info, and the next time you turn on the camera it will get read and the date and time will appear on the subsequently-shot video. Some people don't want that feature, but I like it. I did as the instructions said, took several tries, but I got the date/time going on that 808 camera.

On this #11 Jumbo camera I just got, I see there is no mention of any such small file, or any date/time info at all. Anybody know if this Jumbo #11 camera can put date/time on the video display?
...
You've got some reading to do. The date is changed with a text file on the #11 (either manually or with a small program on Windows PCs), and turned completely on/off with a firmware swap. Read posts #1-#4, and their links of interest.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You've got some reading to do. The date is changed with a text file on the #11 (either manually or with a small program on Windows PCs), and turned completely on/off with a firmware swap. Read posts #1-#4, and their links of interest.
Oops, sorry, I should have checked there first. Lesson learned.

I did go thru the manual method, the camera did take in the text file, I turned it off and on, text file was gone (my other camera, the 808, did this too). Then shot another experimental file, and still no time and date.

So now I finally looked back at the original auction ad from whcih I bought the #11 camera, and finally noticed that it said this camera would be supplied with the newest firmware which, among other things, removes the date and time.

Sigh.

Well, maybe I can do a firmware swap at a later date, and get it back. But hey, it works, so maybe I shouldn't "fix" it.

Thanks for the help, though. I guess with truly persistent stupidity such as mine around, you'll never get rid of repeated beginner questions. But I'll try.

BTW, speaking of stupidity, that 808 camera just went thru the wash. Wonder if it still works. The SD card from it still works, that's what I just used in the #11. Hmmmm...
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Yabba,

Another excellent video! I like the kodak color.

Bill
Hi again Bill, Thanks. Yeah I like the (I call it ) Fuji film look too. Probably because it's so drab around here. But I know Tom and a lot of others prefer to correct their color to a more realistictone. To each his own.

Take care,
Yabba
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I was hoping to see some AV from the Condor! I scratch-built the small "eagle-size" version and it's one of my favorite relaxing flyers as well as an AV platfor. It glides so well, handles wind beautifully, and flies with hardly any power at all... mine can fly for 1/2 hour pretty easily with a 1300 mAh 3S lipo (I land because my neck starts to get stiff looking up high so much!).

I also mount my key cams under the "chin", but pointing aft (couldn't tell if Sarge does this, too) to get the prop out of the camera frame. The downward camera angle is perfect for high altitude AV, and if the video is reversed as well as rotated during editing, it demonstrates my great skill at "hand grab landings"!
Hi again Tom,

I do remember your Eagle. And the Hand catch I also remember the cars were driving backwards or something weird

But that IS the way to do it if you want to avoid the venetian blind effect.

I think Sarge had his keyfob pointing forward (I haven't heard) so he probably had a problem if he did.

That was a SD keyfob that I gave him when I got the HD's and he hasn't used it much but he'll get the hang of all the little tricks and nuiances as he starts using it more.

Yabba
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Hi again Tom,

I do remember your Eagle. And the Hand catch I also remember the cars were driving backwards or something weird
...
The guys in the UK didn't notice anything different about the cars!
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The guys in the UK didn't notice anything different about the cars!

Mike
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 09:42 PM
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That was a compliment, Mike!
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 09:52 PM
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Last question. any way to change the battery once it starts to show its age? If so where would one get this battery?

Thanks!
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hidaven View Post
Last question. any way to change the battery once it starts to show its age? If so where would one get this battery?

Thanks!
See the FAQ for battery replacement.. you need soldering skills. Battery available from your camera vendor.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Oops, sorry, I should have checked there first. Lesson learned.

I did go thru the manual method, the camera did take in the text file, I turned it off and on, text file was gone (my other camera, the 808, did this too). Then shot another experimental file, and still no time and date.

So now I finally looked back at the original auction ad from whcih I bought the #11 camera, and finally noticed that it said this camera would be supplied with the newest firmware which, among other things, removes the date and time.

Sigh.

Well, maybe I can do a firmware swap at a later date, and get it back. But hey, it works, so maybe I shouldn't "fix" it.

Thanks for the help, though. I guess with truly persistent stupidity such as mine around, you'll never get rid of repeated beginner questions. But I'll try.

BTW, speaking of stupidity, that 808 camera just went thru the wash. Wonder if it still works. The SD card from it still works, that's what I just used in the #11. Hmmmm...
The timestamp being shown on the video is an age-old problem. On many models it was not possible to remove it. However, time showed that the majority of people didn't want the timestamp on their video. Hacks were found to remove the timestamp for models which couldn't do this. You belong to the minority, those who actually want the timestamp

From day one, the #11 manufacturer has provided 2 different firmware version - one to show the timestamp, the other to remove it. So you have the choice. Swapping firmware isn't a big deal, but you do have to give the process time and follow the instructions.

The little text file that you are referring to sets the camera's internal clock. The clock data is used to timestamp the files and, depending on the firmware installed, to timestamp the video as well.

Chances are good that your camera will survive the wash as long as water hasn't got into the CMOS module. Make sure the camera is fully dry, dry, dry before turning it on.

If, however, you need a replacement camera for your washed model, then I suggest you take a look at the #16 camera thread. The #16 is the successor to the #11 and many options can be set by using a simple Windows configuration program. For example, you can turn the timestamp on/off, set the length of video clips, enable loop-recording, and, and and.

As with this thread, the first 5 pages of the #16 thread contain almost all the information you will ever need to use these cameras. The first 5 pages are well maintained and always show the latest information.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 06:40 AM
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That was a compliment, Mike!
yes I know, just acknowledging it, couldn't find a wry smiley ..
Mike
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 06:50 AM
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Has anyone been managed to get VIDEO OUT (AV) from this camera ?
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Hi All
Well I bought one of the 808 cams a the real mccoy I beleave. It has no time on it nor doe's it have a text file to change. Easy to take apart.
I use it on mt Blade 120 sr heli, seems to work very well. I did make some holes in the case on the battery side because the casae was getting a bit warm. The holes will let the battery run cooler. The voltage is 3.7 so we can use the same 1 cell Lipos that the helis use. This cam realy needs a little bit bigger heli as the 120 sr has a little trouble lifting it but once up it will fly for about 8 min.
Very good cam for the money.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by i3dm View Post
Has anyone been managed to get VIDEO OUT (AV) from this camera ?
no
Mike
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by timtoolman View Post
Hi All
Well I bought one of the 808 cams a the real mccoy I beleave. It has no time on it nor doe's it have a text file to change. Easy to take apart.
I use it on mt Blade 120 sr heli, seems to work very well. I did make some holes in the case on the battery side because the casae was getting a bit warm. The holes will let the battery run cooler. The voltage is 3.7 so we can use the same 1 cell Lipos that the helis use. This cam realy needs a little bit bigger heli as the 120 sr has a little trouble lifting it but once up it will fly for about 8 min.
Very good cam for the money.
Time : Read the first 4 posts of the thread as requested in the title - its all there.
No time on screen - answered about 10 posts ago.
Sharing camera battery has been answered at least once - thread search will get you there.
Mike
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 08:48 AM
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Novatek NT96632 AV Output

Quote:
Originally Posted by i3dm View Post
Has anyone been managed to get VIDEO OUT (AV) from this camera ?
Not as yet, but the video processor / SoC used in the #11 and #16 cameras can indeed provide it, along with HDMI output and other features :
  • H.264 720p 30fps Video CODEC
  • JPEG Image CODEC
  • Face Detection Engine
  • Digital Image Stabilizer
  • TFT-LCD / CVBS TV output
  • Motion Estimation
  • Embedded Audio CODEC
  • SD / MMMC support
  • HDMI 1.3 Tx
  • USB 2.0
With luck, I hope to have more information available soon - Richard
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
BTW, speaking of stupidity, that 808 camera just went thru the wash. Wonder if it still works. The SD card from it still works, that's what I just used in the #11. Hmmmm...
I'll be damned, it still works.

AND it shows the Time/date!
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
I'll be damned, it still works.

AND it shows the Time/date!
Told you so
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
I'll be damned, it still works.

AND it shows the Time/date!
is it a good camera, or a poor washing machine
Mike
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
is it a good camera, or a poor washing machine
Mike

Wrong soap..
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
Wrong soap..
If at first you don't succeed, try try again.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 04:49 PM
Reap the wild wind
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Yabba
I always enjoy your videos and I especially liked the sequence when the other birds of prey came to investigate "you might be big but you can't fly for sh*t" That made be laugh. However I think they might retreat if this one came a calling
eagle on steroides. NORWAY (4 min 36 sec)

Sorry if OT but posted for those who admire RC birdies
Andy
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 05:14 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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USA, CO, Denver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
Yabba
I always enjoy your videos and I especially liked the sequence when the other birds of prey came to investigate "you might be big but you can't fly for sh*t" That made be laugh. However I think they might retreat if this one came a calling
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYzc4zx-Z7U
Sorry if OT but posted for those who admire RC birdies
Andy
Wow Andy, that's AWESOME. I went to YewTube and copied the link and I'm sending it to Sarge right now.

It'll probably bring tears to his eyes

Sorry about the language. I've been trying to figure out how to insert a beep but haven't had much luck. I did it on a couple of vids and it didn't come out very well.

Anyway, I apologize if it offended anyone. I should have put in a warning....again. We're just a bunch of guys doing what guys do, talk dirty and scratch ourselves

Yabba
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 05:31 PM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
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Yabba, NO don't put a beep in it.
I too did a 'Laugh out loud' when you did that "Can't Fly For S..." comment - Loved it! - it practically made the video.
If anyone has a problem with that word in it's context then they 'can go suck s...'!
-B!
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 05:55 PM
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When I'm sloping, the local ravens come by and sneer!
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 07:26 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
When I'm sloping, the local ravens come by and sneer!
LOL, yeah, we have 2 hawks that do the same thing. They sit on top of the lightpoles and just laugh their tail feathers off at us.

Anyway, thanks guys. I appreciate the kind words.

And now,back to them keyfobs before I get Tom after my

Yabba
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:38 AM
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Possibly bricked #11 - Solid Yelllow LED which never blinks

Two of my older #11s now only show a steady Yellow LED when I turn them on. The Yellow LED does not blink and the shutter button doesn't react. I have tested the button with a multimeter and it is OK and the upper left leg does NOT touch the Microphone lead. The power button is also OK and does NOT make contact with the resistor on the bottom edge. Both crystals appear to be OK and not shorting.

I can flash different firmware versions, and have tried Release 1 (R1) and Release 2 (R2) in different flavors. With a freshly formatted card (SDFormatter), empty folders are created when I turn on the camera. Different names are created depending on the firmware version installed (R1 or R2) which proves the flash process worked. Also, if present, the date file is deleted from the card when I turn on the camera. The battery charges OK with both the "special" cable and the standard cable and the red LED indicates the charging process correctly. I have disconnected the battery many times. Reset switch also works (obviously!) but otherwise the camera doesn't react. No Webcam mode, no external drive mode, no recording - only a solid yellow LED when turned on. I've tried different cards but the yellow LED never blinks, not even when I turn on the cameras without a card inserted.

Searching this thread I found at least two postings with identical symptoms with more than two cameras being affected. Unfortunately short-clicking the power button and fastly-clicking the shutter button didn't work for me as it did for one reader.

I haven't a clue if this is hardware related or due to a wonky bit in non-volatile RAM, so I'm asking if anyone had the same problem and managed to get the camera working again.

As a last resort I will reflash the SPI, but that will involve first removing a good chip from a working camera. So I'll wait a bit on that... ... or does anyone have an SPI dump that is 100% working?
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Two of my older #11s now only show a steady Yellow LED when I turn them on. The Yellow LED does not blink and the shutter button doesn't react. I have tested the button with a multimeter and it is OK and the upper left leg does NOT touch the Microphone lead. The power button is also OK and does NOT make contact with the resistor on the bottom edge. Both crystals appear to be OK and not shorting.

I can flash different firmware versions, and have tried Release 1 (R1) and Release 2 (R2) in different flavors. With a freshly formatted card (SDFormatter), empty folders are created when I turn on the camera. Different names are created depending on the firmware version installed (R1 or R2) which proves the flash process worked. Also, if present, the date file is deleted from the card when I turn on the camera. The battery charges OK with both the "special" cable and the standard cable and the red LED indicates the charging process correctly. I have disconnected the battery many times. Reset switch also works (obviously!) but otherwise the camera doesn't react. No Webcam mode, no external drive mode, no recording - only a solid yellow LED when turned on. I've tried different cards but the yellow LED never blinks, not even when I turn on the cameras without a card inserted.

Searching this thread I found at least two postings with identical symptoms with more than two cameras being affected. Unfortunately short-clicking the power button and fastly-clicking the shutter button didn't work for me as it did for one reader.

I haven't a clue if this is hardware related or due to a wonky bit in non-volatile RAM, so I'm asking if anyone had the same problem and managed to get the camera working again.

As a last resort I will reflash the SPI, but that will involve first removing a good chip from a working camera. So I'll wait a bit on that... ... or does anyone have an SPI dump that is 100% working?
Interesting... did this happen to both all at once, or maybe while handling them for focusing, etc. (that's how I got one of mine in that state)? The symptoms sound strangely like the ones reported in the #16 thread with the CL 10 card that works with old firmware but not new (not that there is any connection).

Anyway, I've had similar malfunctions of two #11 cameras... can't recall exactly the LED indication, though. On one, I was able to restore the camera by reflashing the SPI code (using the "two resistor swapping - new spi.bin flashing - replace resistor" method. It was not fun removing/replacing two resistors barely visible to the naked eye, but I managed to do it. I have the #11 SPI chip .bin file if you need it.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 25, 2012 at 12:57 PM.
Old Jan 25, 2012, 01:40 PM
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United States, FL
Joined Oct 2005
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Not sure if my camera gave up the ghost or not... but here is what's happening.

Seems to charge fine.

Turns on just fine.

When I press the record button - literally nothing happens. Nothing at all.

It's as if the button no longer does anything.

Suggestions?
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 04:33 PM
Just thumbing through...
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I would see if the button switch inside is being sufficiently depressed by the black plastic button. Some folks had that issue with other versions.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 07:22 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
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GoPro HD on RC FPV Plane Compilation (5 min 21 sec)
- Gopro HD compilation
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 07:30 PM
Dance the skies...
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Off topic

Quote:
Originally Posted by GazaChinee View Post
- Gopro HD compilation
Please don't post GoPro video here. This thread is for the #11 KeyChain Camera. There is a thread for the GoPro camera. We know the GoPro can take better quality video, but we like the $40 alternative.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
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Looking at what is possible is always useful.
The camera in my 3319B heli is probably 808 based... and comes with a much wider field of view.
Why be stuck with the narrow angle of the plain vanilla camera, when better is available from some manufacturers? (Should be all manufacturers.)
The image from the 3319B has more scenic information at the very least.
And this applies to all the 808's, from #3 to #16.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
Looking at what is possible is always useful.
The camera in my 3319B heli is probably 808 based... and comes with a much wider field of view.
Why be stuck with the narrow angle of the plain vanilla camera, when better is available from some manufacturers? (Should be all manufacturers.)
The image from the 3319B has more scenic information at the very least.
And this applies to all the 808's, from #3 to #16.
And I know you've been reading this thread long enough to know more wider angle lenses (90 and 120 deg) are already on the agenda for POSSIBLE use on the #16, so no need to point out they aren't available (yet!). The #16 has only been available for sale for a little over a month, so be patient, or use your 3319B or SD resolution 808 cameras if they make you happier.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
And I know you've been reading this thread long enough to know more wider angle lenses (90 and 120 deg) are already on the agenda for POSSIBLE use on the #16, so no need to point out they aren't available (yet!). The #16 has only been available for sale for a little over a month, so be patient, or use your 3319B or SD resolution 808 cameras if they make you happier.
Hmmm, the 3319B has a Video Resolution: 320 x 240 which goes back 5 years in terms of video capability.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:00 PM
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My jumbo #11 stop to working

I update the firmware weeks ago and it was normal, i used the camera a few times

Until one day i push the buttom to make a video, the led flashes normally

After 1hour, i notice the camera is a little hot, i think its normal, but when i plug in usb nothing appears in my windows, led go red like usual, then go yellow when i turn the camera on, but notting appears in my windows

I plug the memory card into the card reader, and for my surprise, no file was recorded....

Now i cant record any more videos...
I already try with other memory card, same problem
All the conector appears to be fine
But the camera dont record anymore, the led dont flash anymore



A make a video to demonstrate:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu0ac...ature=youtu.be




Any ideias???

thx in adv
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:13 PM
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i just try to put other firmware, the update goes ok, but the problem remains ://

damn i really want to use the camera this weekend
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:52 PM
Team WarpSquad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l4l4u View Post
i just try to put other firmware, the update goes ok, but the problem remains ://

damn i really want to use the camera this weekend
Pressed the reset button?
Try waiting 30s after starting the camera, allow it to 'boot up', then try to record video.
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 11:59 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Hmmm, the 3319B has a Video Resolution: 320 x 240 which goes back 5 years in terms of video capability.
But it's a wider AOV apparently... isn't that all that matters?
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 12:04 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l4l4u View Post
I update the firmware weeks ago and it was normal, i used the camera a few times

Until one day i push the buttom to make a video, the led flashes normally

After 1hour, i notice the camera is a little hot, i think its normal, but when i plug in usb nothing appears in my windows, led go red like usual, then go yellow when i turn the camera on, but notting appears in my windows

I plug the memory card into the card reader, and for my surprise, no file was recorded....

Now i cant record any more videos...
I already try with other memory card, same problem
All the conector appears to be fine
But the camera dont record anymore, the led dont flash anymore

...
Any ideias???

thx in adv
I don't know what might have started the problem, but you may have made it worse by handling a bare circuit board like that when it is powered up. I bricked two #3 cameras and one #11 doing that very thing, but while merely re-focusing the lenses.

Now I ALWAYS wrap some painters masking tape around the circuit board enough to cover any soldered connections whenever I have to remove and handle the bare circuit boards for any reason.

Sorry... wish I could suggest a fix.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Chip View Post
Not sure if my camera gave up the ghost or not... but here is what's happening.

Seems to charge fine.

Turns on just fine.

When I press the record button - literally nothing happens. Nothing at all.

It's as if the button no longer does anything.

Suggestions?
When you say it turns on fine, does the yellow LED turn on, briefly turn off, and then remain on?

If you get the blink, then the camera is running normally. Have you tried formatting the card with SDFormatter? Try another empty card.
Can you still connect the camera as an external drive?

If the camera turns on but doesn't blink then you have exactly the same problem as I am having - see post #8647, above. The camera is bricked
One reader managed to get his camera working again by briefly pressing the power button and then very quickly repeatedly pressing the shutter button. This solution didn't work for me, but maybe it's worth a try.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Interesting... did this happen to both all at once, or maybe while handling them for focusing, etc. (that's how I got one of mine in that state)? The symptoms sound strangely like the ones reported in the #16 thread with the CL 10 card that works with old firmware but not new (not that there is any connection).

Anyway, I've had similar malfunctions of two #11 cameras... can't recall exactly the LED indication, though. On one, I was able to restore the camera by reflashing the SPI code (using the "two resistor swapping - new spi.bin flashing - replace resistor" method. It was not fun removing/replacing two resistors barely visible to the naked eye, but I managed to do it. I have the #11 SPI chip .bin file if you need it.
Both cameras failed within about two weeks of each other, and yes, one failed while I was refocusing, but not the other.

I believe the problem I'm having is a bit different to the #16 problem. The #16 issue appears to only occur when using certain (not all) class 10 cards. Lower class ratings work fine.

I don't fancy using the "resistor swapping" method to reflash the boot code, those resistors are just too small for my eyes and fingers! I think it will be easier to remove the SPI chip. Luckily I have a small programmer that I used for programming the #3 SPI chips, so this is what I plan to use. Thanks for the firmware dump. I was a bit suspicious about the .hex ending so I compared the file in my hex editor to a normal firmware file. The code part is very similar, so I can safely assume the file is indeed in binary form. I will wait a bit before I go ahead with flashing the chip in the hope that someone may come up with an easier solution. I'm doubtful if reflashing the SPI will bring the cameras back to life, but since I have nothing to lose, it's worth a try.

If the firmware uses non-volatile RAM in the processor, I have no possibility to clear it, so I hope that's not the case. I'm almost sure this can't be a hardware issue since folders are created and the date file is deleted if it is on the card. It is very strange indeed...
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 06:58 AM
Just thumbing through...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't know what might have started the problem, but you may have made it worse by handling a bare circuit board like that when it is powered up. I bricked two #3 cameras and one #11 doing that very thing, but while merely re-focusing the lenses.

Now I ALWAYS wrap some painters masking tape around the circuit board enough to cover any soldered connections whenever I have to remove and handle the bare circuit boards for any reason.

Sorry... wish I could suggest a fix.
Using tape might also create a risk, either by generating a charge by pulling the tape from the roll, or when removing it from the camera. Might depend on the type or brand of tape. See on Wikipedia, its actually used to demonstrate static!!

I have an antistatic wrist band, but must confess I can't be bothered searching for it! I just make sure to ground my fingers on the USB socket before touching anything inside.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Palmdale, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Hmmm, the 3319B has a Video Resolution: 320 x 240 which goes back 5 years in terms of video capability.
.
Wrong.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
.
Wrong.
It's listed on multiple websites. One has it specified as 640 x 480 and the other had video resolution at 320x240. Even if it is 640 x 480 it's a V3 Key fob camera at best. Don't know if it drops frames or not. There are a bunch of key cams that drop frames like crazy.

Let's end this because this thread is about the #11 HD key cam. You can start another thread on the camera you seem to prefer.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 12:47 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prof100 View Post
you can start another thread on the camera you seem to prefer.
+10
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 01:14 PM
Reap the wild wind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Using tape might also create a risk, either by generating a charge by pulling the tape from the roll, or when removing it from the camera. Might depend on the type or brand of tape. See on Wikipedia, its actually used to demonstrate static!!

I have an antistatic wrist band, but must confess I can't be bothered searching for it! I just make sure to ground my fingers on the USB socket before touching anything inside.
I wore silicon gloves when I handled my #16 to re-focus the lens.
Andy
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:46 PM
Ascended Master
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Palmdale, CA
Joined Oct 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
It's listed on multiple websites. One has it specified as 640 x 480 and the other had video resolution at 320x240. Even if it is 640 x 480 it's a V3 Key fob camera at best. Don't know if it drops frames or not. There are a bunch of key cams that drop frames like crazy.

Let's end this because this thread is about the #11 HD key cam. You can start another thread on the camera you seem to prefer.
.
Which seems to be most of them, regardless of the #.
That a better lens is available is what is most important.
And how to get that lens to fit on any of these things properly regardless of the # or the firmware needed to make the cameras operate.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky Paul View Post
.
Which seems to be most of them, regardless of the #.
That a better lens is available is what is most important.
And how to get that lens to fit on any of these things properly regardless of the # or the firmware needed to make the cameras operate.
The lens thread is bigger on the 11 and 16. How do I know? Answer: I mangled my 16 lens and tried to harvest one from a 3 and a 6. Both were too small.

The developer is working on better lenses.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Italia, Lombardia, Milano
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Two of my older #11s now only show a steady Yellow LED when I turn them on. The Yellow LED does not blink and the shutter button doesn't react. I have tested the button with a multimeter and it is OK and the upper left leg does NOT touch the Microphone lead. The power button is also OK and does NOT make contact with the resistor on the bottom edge. Both crystals appear to be OK and not shorting.

I can flash different firmware versions, and have tried Release 1 (R1) and Release 2 (R2) in different flavors. With a freshly formatted card (SDFormatter), empty folders are created when I turn on the camera. Different names are created depending on the firmware version installed (R1 or R2) which proves the flash process worked. Also, if present, the date file is deleted from the card when I turn on the camera. The battery charges OK with both the "special" cable and the standard cable and the red LED indicates the charging process correctly. I have disconnected the battery many times. Reset switch also works (obviously!) but otherwise the camera doesn't react. No Webcam mode, no external drive mode, no recording - only a solid yellow LED when turned on. I've tried different cards but the yellow LED never blinks, not even when I turn on the cameras without a card inserted.

Searching this thread I found at least two postings with identical symptoms with more than two cameras being affected. Unfortunately short-clicking the power button and fastly-clicking the shutter button didn't work for me as it did for one reader.

I haven't a clue if this is hardware related or due to a wonky bit in non-volatile RAM, so I'm asking if anyone had the same problem and managed to get the camera working again.

As a last resort I will reflash the SPI, but that will involve first removing a good chip from a working camera. So I'll wait a bit on that... ... or does anyone have an SPI dump that is 100% working?
for SPI dump look at my blog. I had a similar issue and even if I'm not 100 percent sure ..it was something related to the cmos contact (I had re soldered the CMOS and the microphone, and problem was gone). Try cleaning and touching around ..maybe it will work
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Last edited by Giorg; Jan 26, 2012 at 05:29 PM.
Old Jan 26, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I don't fancy using the "resistor swapping" method to reflash the boot code, those resistors are just too small for my eyes and fingers! I think it will be easier to remove the SPI chip. Luckily I have a small programmer that I used for programming the #3 SPI chips, so this is what I plan to use. Thanks for the firmware dump. I was a bit suspicious about the .hex ending so I compared the file in my hex editor to a normal firmware file. The code part is very similar, so I can safely assume the file is indeed in binary form. I will wait a bit before I go ahead with flashing the chip in the hope that someone may come up with an easier solution. I'm doubtful if reflashing the SPI will bring the cameras back to life, but since I have nothing to lose, it's worth a try.
Definitely is not worthy to work with those tiny resistor.. even with hot air they are a pain in the **.. and you risk to actually do more damage with excessive heat than with the SPI removing procedure.
The dump is exactly Loader code+firmware .. you can open everything in an hex editor and find out that they match perfectly.
I Hope you'll find a solution
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 09:31 PM
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Can you leave this camera plugged in say overnight? Or will it over charge....
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidaven View Post
Can you leave this camera plugged in say overnight? Or will it over charge....
Remove from charger when fully charged. It is never a good idea to leave a charger running overnight on a lipo.
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 09:35 PM
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what about cell phones, laptops etc. pretty sure thats a lithium battery as well.....
Does this camera have a cutoff when its fully charged?
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 11:29 PM
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Those are Lithium Ion, not Lithium Polymer and are treated differently.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
for SPI dump look at my blog. I had a similar issue and even if I'm not 100 percent sure ..it was something related to the cmos contact (I had re soldered the CMOS and the microphone, and problem was gone). Try cleaning and touching around ..maybe it will work
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
Definitely is not worthy to work with those tiny resistor.. even with hot air they are a pain in the **.. and you risk to actually do more damage with excessive heat than with the SPI removing procedure.
The dump is exactly Loader code+firmware .. you can open everything in an hex editor and find out that they match perfectly.
I Hope you'll find a solution
I've prodded the CMOS cable and just about everything else, but that darn yellow LED refuses to blink! If I try hard enough, like suddenly removing the battery - I've added a plug, I can get the camera to "hang", meaning I can't turn it on or off. Pressing reset always brings it back. This proves once again that the firmware is running.

I also thought there may be something wrong with the CMOS cable, but it is well and truly glued to the board. I tried a hot air soldering gun, but it looks as if epoxy has been used to attach the cable I'm so glad the #16 uses a pluggable module.

When I have the time I'll be removing the SPI for reprogramming and see what that brings. I don't think I have anything else to try.

I've read you blog a few times - very informative indeed.
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 04:55 AM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hidaven View Post
what about cell phones, laptops etc. pretty sure thats a lithium battery as well.....
Does this camera have a cutoff when its fully charged?
It has a cutoff, but don't trust these cheap circuits, phones etc are of a higher quality, and are made to meet standards. Although I have accidently leaved mine on overnight a few times, and camera is fine, and nothing bad happened
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Old Jan 27, 2012, 02:54 PM
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Have you done tests with 16g or 32g sd card in camera # 11 and # 16?
I use an external battery. I am in doubt which card works best.
What card you recommend?
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 02:37 AM
I need a bigger shed..
sammyc's Avatar
Australia, TAS, Launceston
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos Antonio View Post
Have you done tests with 16g or 32g sd card in camera # 11 and # 16?
I use an external battery. I am in doubt which card works best.
What card you recommend?
Neither works best, its dependant on speed. I use a class 4 from my old #3, works fine. With an 8gb, I will get about 2 batteries worth of video, so enough unless travelling without a pc or spare cards.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos Antonio View Post
Have you done tests with 16g or 32g sd card in camera # 11 and # 16?
I use an external battery. I am in doubt which card works best.
What card you recommend?
You posted exactly the same question in the #16 thread, so I'm sure you also saw my answer.

Like you have already been told, the choice is yours and depends on how much video you want to record. Most of my cards are 32GB because I need long recording times. All quality cards work the same. There is no "best" card.
By quality cards I mean genuine Sandisk, Transcend, Samsung and Kingston. Maybe I missed one or two, but those are the most common.

My personal preference is Sandisk, but that's mainly because they are locally available. Sandisk cost more than other brands. Even class 2 Sandisk work perfectly for the #11 but as a rule of thumb, I suggest you use class 6 cards.
With the #16, problems have been reported with some class 10 cards. This may be corrected in a future firmware update, but for the time being I would advice against using class 10 cards.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
for SPI dump look at my blog. I had a similar issue and even if I'm not 100 percent sure ..it was something related to the cmos contact (I had re soldered the CMOS and the microphone, and problem was gone). Try cleaning and touching around ..maybe it will work
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giorg View Post
Definitely is not worthy to work with those tiny resistor.. even with hot air they are a pain in the **.. and you risk to actually do more damage with excessive heat than with the SPI removing procedure.
The dump is exactly Loader code+firmware .. you can open everything in an hex editor and find out that they match perfectly.
I Hope you'll find a solution
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I've prodded the CMOS cable and just about everything else, but that darn yellow LED refuses to blink! If I try hard enough, like suddenly removing the battery - I've added a plug, I can get the camera to "hang", meaning I can't turn it on or off. Pressing reset always brings it back. This proves once again that the firmware is running.

I also thought there may be something wrong with the CMOS cable, but it is well and truly glued to the board. I tried a hot air soldering gun, but it looks as if epoxy has been used to attach the cable I'm so glad the #16 uses a pluggable module.

When I have the time I'll be removing the SPI for reprogramming and see what that brings. I don't think I have anything else to try.

I've read you blog a few times - very informative indeed.
I've never removed an SPI so easily as on the #11. It's positioned perfectly to desolder. Using Chip Quik it took me less than a minute to desolder at a cold 275C (527F). The chip just fell off the board!

I then erased and reprogrammed using Tom's bin file. After resoldering I turned on the camera - same problem, just the steady yellow LED

Then I removed and resoldered the two crystals - same results.
Then I removed the microphone and it was almost impossible to get the yellow LED to turn on. After soldering the microphone back on, I got my steady yellow LED again...

Since the missing microphone adversely effected the power-on procedure, I'm now beginning to think that, like Giorg mentioned, a broken CMOS contact could well indeed be the cause of the firmware not initializing correctly. The CMOS cable looks perfect under the magnifying glass, but there may be a connection problem inside the CMOS module. With great difficulty I managed to remove the CMOS module from the less-glued camera, but one track is lifted. Strangely enough, the camera with the missing module performs exactly as it did before I removed the module. i.e. just a steady yellow LED.

I'll wait until the end of the CNY and contact the original seller for a replacement CMOS module, but if the price is similar to the #16 replacement I don't think it's worth taking the risk, and I certainly don't want to experiment on one of my "good" cameras.
If any hardware techie has an idea where I could obtain one or two cheap replacement CMOS modules that would work on the #11 for experimenting, I'm all ears.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 02:01 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
I'm finding out my #11 is a tough little bugger. Look at the abuse it cops in this video and after that it even had a dunk in the river. Camera & SD card still working fine.


http://youtu.be/7yBp1JR57nY
Fortunately the card did not eject from the camera on impact... you'd likely never find it in that tall grass. A wrap of tape around the camera over the card slot will prevent that... recommended if you didn't already do it.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 02:08 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
5 Posts
Hello, i'm new here and registered just for these threads about the 808 camera's.

I've just bought the 808 #11, which is a great little device.
On youtube it seems like the #11 Jumbo has better quality video's, or is that just compared to the older versions (Before V3?) of the #11 808?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 02:09 PM
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timetec's Avatar
United Kingdom
Joined Aug 2010
71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post

If any hardware techie has an idea where I could obtain one or two cheap replacement CMOS modules that would work on the #11 for experimenting, I'm all ears.

You should be able to get replacement OV9712 CMOS modules for the #11 without any problems directly from digitalele889 or eletoponline365 - for about $8 each.

If you were thinking of adding a PCB connector to the #11's PCB to allow the removal and replacement of the CMOS module, I honestly think you can forget it.
This would be a great addition, but the pitch of the Flexible Printed Circuit on the #11 module is 0.635mm (the same as SSOP IC's) - but non-standard for FFC connectors.
I did however find one supplier in China offering FFC / FPC connectors with a pitch of 0.625mm - very close, but I've never heard back from them. Link HERE :

Good luck in your quest - Richard
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 02:38 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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deleted. I though I was posting to the thread about the new forum format being tested. My reply made absolutely no sense in this thread!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 28, 2012 at 09:20 PM.
Old Jan 28, 2012, 04:48 PM
Registered User
Giorg's Avatar
Italia, Lombardia, Milano
Joined May 2011
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I also thought there may be something wrong with the CMOS cable, but it is well and truly glued to the board. I tried a hot air soldering gun, but it looks as if epoxy has been used to attach the cable I'm so glad the #16 uses a pluggable module.

When I have the time I'll be removing the SPI for reprogramming and see what that brings. I don't think I have anything else to try.

I've read you blog a few times - very informative indeed.
Now I remember! We have already talked about your unhappily glued module!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Since the missing microphone adversely effected the power-on procedure, I'm now beginning to think that, like Giorg mentioned, a broken CMOS contact could well indeed be the cause of the firmware not initializing correctly. The CMOS cable looks perfect under the magnifying glass, but there may be a connection problem inside the CMOS module. With great difficulty I managed to remove the CMOS module from the less-glued camera, but one track is lifted. Strangely enough, the camera with the missing module performs exactly as it did before I removed the module. i.e. just a steady yellow LED.
What a bad news! Maybe you can dissect the internal CMOS and see if you can reach directly a soldering point to recreate the broken connection.


We are taking more about medical surgery than electronics

Maybe there's someone around with a bricked cam that wants to donate it to science

Post a picture of the damage.. maybe we could find a way round. I've a cam that it's running strong after a pin pad reconstruction
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Old Jan 28, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
330 Posts
For what it's worth, one of my 808 3#'s (ok I know it's the HD thread ) works ok without a mike connected. I know cos I killed it trying to solder a remote firing circuit to the switch! Interesting enough I soldered a remote electret condenser microphone in and it functioned ok until I lifted (damaged) the tiny weeny bit of circuit on the board that connected it to the processor. It was in an impossible place to find another connection.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 08:55 PM
Registered User
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2006
1,280 Posts
Mount for #11 Jumbo camera for my SkySurfer. Got tired of "mounting" the camera with a lot of black plastic electrician's tape, look terrible and kept peeling off the decals when I removed it. Yes, I broke all the edges, rounded everything off, it's child-safe.

A fixed mount, obviously, none of that RC-Pan-Tilt stuff. I put a flat plywood platform on the nose of the plane, just ahead of the hatch. You can point the camera anywhere in about a 240-degree arc, and bend the camera mount to tilt up and down. Well, down. Should suit my simple needs.

Battery not included.

-------------------------------------------

ON EDIT:

More pics, this time of the installed mount. Can point left, right, straight ahead, or any angle in between unless you break your drill. I've found that pointing downward at about 20-30 degrees is best for what I want - get lots of good ground shots no matter where you go, without having to contort the plane into weird attitudes, knife-edge, etc. YMMV.

As mentioned earlier, I'll probably put a rubber band or two around the camera, just to be sure it doesn't wind up in a weed patch somewhere a quarter mile away.

Note the three-blade Master Airscrew 6x4 prop on the Turnigy 2835-3900KV motor. I found out this morning that this thing can climb straight up with the camera installed (with black plastic electrician's tape, yuck) and a 2200 mAh 3s LiPo.

About the scratches on the poor little guy in the cockpit - your first guess was right. Wasn't that long ago that everything forward of (or above) the wing on this plane, was in little pieces in the back yard of a house at the edge of our flying field. Live and learn. At least now the little fellow can easily reach the camera to manipulate it - all he has to do is raise the canopy in flight.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
3 Posts
Hello friends,

Can i charge my jumbo 11 with Duracell Portable USB Device Charger 1800 mAh?


Thanks in advance for your answer.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 06:52 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gocksy View Post
Hello friends,

Can i charge my jumbo 11 with Duracell Portable USB Device Charger 1800 mAh?


Thanks in advance for your answer.
you have read all of posting #3 havent you? about the 8th line is a link to a detailed explanation, too long for me to bother to repeat again.
Mike
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 02:29 AM
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 03:58 AM
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Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
you have read all of posting #3 havent you? about the 8th line is a link to a detailed explanation, too long for me to bother to repeat again.
Mike
Sorry but I can't find the link.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Cranfield U.K.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gocksy View Post
Sorry but I can't find the link.
Posting #3 :-
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
Posting #3 :-
Thank you very much!
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 09:32 AM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gocksy View Post
Thank you very much!
using Duracell batteries (Heavy, expensive and of unknown storage capacity) might not be the way to go, there are other similar units based on single or multple lipos.
Mike
P.S. you can see why I did not repost all that info
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 05:15 AM
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Joined Feb 2012
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corrupt files after 6 months use

I've been using my jumbo #11 for about 6 months with no issues. Today I shot a movie which was corrupt (VLC couldn't play it). I read the faq at the start and used some software to partially recover the file.

Any movie I shoot is now corrupt, camera seems to be functioning okay, I can read/write to it from the laptop and all the buttons work as normal.

Searching this thread I saw something about faulty sd card, but before I buy another is there anything else someone can recommend?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 06:02 AM
Just thumbing through...
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United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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I would try cleaning the contacts of your card. Alcohol or pencil eraser. Slim chance but might help.
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 06:11 AM
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empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcast12 View Post
I've been using my jumbo #11 for about 6 months with no issues. Today I shot a movie which was corrupt (VLC couldn't play it). I read the faq at the start and used some software to partially recover the file.

Any movie I shoot is now corrupt, camera seems to be functioning okay, I can read/write to it from the laptop and all the buttons work as normal.

Searching this thread I saw something about faulty sd card, but before I buy another is there anything else someone can recommend?

Thanks in advance.
Have you tried using SDFormat program on your card to try and recover the card?
Please confirm that you can read/write the card OK from your PC while it is in the camera - write an old movie onto the card, and then read it back and play it.
( to try and help isolate where the problem lies , camera or card.).
Mike
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 06:29 AM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
Have you tried using SDFormat program on your card to try and recover the card?
Please confirm that you can read/write the card OK from your PC while it is in the camera - write an old movie onto the card, and then read it back and play it.
( to try and help isolate where the problem lies , camera or card.).
Mike
I've tried various disk checking software on the card and got no errors. I also copied a large 2gb HD video onto the #11 and it played flawlessly.

Looks like it's the camera

Also to note, the files it records are the correct length, playable (sound is fine, no picture) and moveable/deletable. Repairing the files gives partially garbled, generally unwatchable footage.

edit: webcam works fine
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Last edited by mcast12; Feb 01, 2012 at 06:36 AM.
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