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Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rotagen View Post
Well someone's gotta say it.

Despite the number 11 keychain hype The Hobby King hd wing camera has got this thing beat. Way better picture. My friend has both.
Thanks for the insightful comment, but this unbiased review doesn't support your claim. Your friend must have a defective #11 camera, but without a sample video, we can't tell. It may just have a lens that needs focusing. If your friend cares to look into this more, maybe he can share his situation here first hand. Defective #11 cameras will be replaced by the authorized vendor he bought it from.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotagen View Post
Well someone's gotta say it.

Despite the number 11 keychain hype The Hobby King hd wing camera has got this thing beat. Way better picture. My friend has both.
It looks like a good option, however the one video shown on HK site the camera had a lot jello effect. Price is comparable but twice the weight. With a larger battery that is why. However, the reviews are not great on it. Here is thread on HK camera (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...30fps+5mp+cmos)

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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:04 AM
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Austria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Thanks for the insightful comment, but this unbiased review doesn't support your claim. Your friend must have a defective #11 camera, but without a sample video, we can't tell. It may just have a lens that needs focusing. If your friend cares to look into this more, maybe he can share his situation here first hand. Defective #11 cameras will be replaced by the authorized vendor he bought it from.
HK cam may have some smaller advantages over the #11 in few areas, but has many disadvantages in others.

At the end, all is to the CPU power used in the cam:
#11 use and advanced H264 encoding
HK use MJPEG encoding (like the old SD KeyCam)

HK cam need a class 10 SD
#11 works fine also with class 4

HK cam produce video 3 time larger then #11, due to the more simple compression.

HK offer a video out, and has some motion detection SW on it.
HK has a bigger battery

But mainly the #11 size and weight is still the smaller and lighter in the HD video, so for me it is by far the prefer one.

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 04:18 AM
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Is there any picture how to open #11, I was looking on first page but didn't find anything; I don't want to broke it
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 04:34 AM
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Some folks have enjoyed them before , so here's another paragliding video made with the 11# with 0.67x lense and my 800mA external battery. I don't video continuously, but a couple of mins here and there on the run. 2.8 gb with no trouble. On my other test I filled a 4 gig card.
The run is 16k (a personal best on the coast) in Cornwall, from near Looe to near Rame Head, Plymouth. Lovely flight.

Quite remarkable quality with not quite as much green/brown hunting. I edit with Addobe Premiere Elements 4.0 on my lappy which has a dual core processor, but still had a few crashes. And the original 720p mpeg output file was 1 gig for 7 1/2 mins of video! I compressed it with mpeg4 Xvid codec in Avidemaux to 350mb with no apparent loss of image quality.

I did get a lot of wind noise so have made a small fleece jacket for the cam. Still to be tested.

Paragliding 16k coastal run Struddick to Polhawn, Cornwall. 808 key chain HD camera (7 min 33 sec)
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 05:17 AM
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Hello guys,

I read an interesting thing about Mov videos rendering on windows

http://exposureroom.com/members/Marc...rials/post/34/

I used avidemux to test these settings, -11 brigthness was to much, -5 looks fine



Original video untouched:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NMVWELWT40

Corrected one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UENDs26BRQ8

P.S.: I'm using 0.67x wide lens
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 07:00 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Kent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't think a dying battery is causing the dropped frames... at least that has not been an artifact found by myself or others. Do you get the intermittant buzzing sound in your video that IS a flag the battery is dyiing? How long can you record before the battery dies? Those are definitive ways to tell if you need a new battery.

I'm guessing your problem is your flash memory card. You can test it for speed and errors with the utility programs mentioned in the FAQs
Thanks Tom, I've tested the card, a Transcend 8GB class 6 in a Belkin reader/writer and here are the h2testw results.
Test finished without errors.
You can now delete the test files *.h2w or verify them again.
Writing speed: 10.3 MByte/s
Reading speed: 17.2 MByte/s
H2testw v1.4
Looking at the FAQ on temperature, I did notice that the camera was quite hot after recording as a 'hatcam', though it was a very warm sunny day. Could this affect the performance or be a symptom of another problem?
Mike.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
It looks like a good option, however the one video shown on HK site the camera had a lot jello effect. Price is comparable but twice the weight.
I have one and use it FWIW. It has a 120deg AOV which is an advantage for me. There is another thread here, a bit more positive. You can see some still shots (frame grabs) there that are excellent. Maybe quality varies from cam to cam, I find it useful, but no IMAX!! Biggest downer is slow iris.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
Some folks have enjoyed them before , so here's another paragliding video made with the 11# with 0.67x lense and my 800mA external battery. I don't video continuously, but a couple of mins here and there on the run. 2.8 gb with no trouble. On my other test I filled a 4 gig card.
The run is 16k (a personal best on the coast) in Cornwall, from near Looe to near Rame Head, Plymouth. Lovely flight.

Quite remarkable quality with not quite as much green/brown hunting. I edit with Addobe Premiere Elements 4.0 on my lappy which has a dual core processor, but still had a few crashes. And the original 720p mpeg output file was 1 gig for 7 1/2 mins of video! I compressed it with mpeg4 Xvid codec in Avidemaux to 350mb with no apparent loss of image quality.

I did get a lot of wind noise so have made a small fleece jacket for the cam. Still to be tested.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC137z9Z3C8
Bob,
very nice video.. could you post a GE .kmz of where the start or Landing is?.. I'm just curious..the map's nice but not too legible.. JimS
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:09 AM
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Another video with the Radian Pro. I had a second flight as well, but the camera quit a couple minutes into recording. I guess the 20 minute flight was as much as the battery could handle in 50 degree weather?

Radian Pro Onboard #2 (9 min 55 sec)
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
Some folks have enjoyed them before , so here's another paragliding video made with the 11# with 0.67x lense and my 800mA external battery.
A very nice match - the music and the flight. It seemed to be a good day, with lots of gouppance, and you made it look a doddle.
Thanks
Mike
(& tku 2 Tom 4 running The Thread.)
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 11:57 AM
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ok, just received my #11 808 cam from HK. the vendor, is here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keyfob-cam-D...item231432cd61

trying to figure out which of the five(?) different files to down load and overwrite the FW96630A file on the camera, to get "no Time".

Should I use the 70 minute file?

Instructions pasted in below.., place the FW....no time.bin file next to the DCIM folder? ; does this go IN the DCIM folder?? says next to the DCIM folder??

Remove Date/Time Instructions:

Use at own risk!!! Follow steps below.

#1 Turn on camera, plug in USB.

#2 Open the camera folder and place the FW96630A NO TIME.bin file next to the DCIM folder (root of camera)
Important Note: ((Do not rename or modify the .bin files))

#3 Unplug the USB and wait for the light to go off on its own.

#4 Turn on camera and wait for the light to appear (takes few seconds)

#5 Open the camera folder again but this time delete the file FW96630A.bin from the folder. Make sure to delete the file or the cam will keep installing the .bin file each time the cam powers up.

#6 Test your cam to see if Time/Date is gone.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thanks TF.
How long should I charge new keycam? (Edit just read that my Late model #11, has red led on when charging, fully charged when red led is out..) With a 8GB card in the unit, will it record continuously until battery dies? I assume battery will die before microSD card is full.

While waiting for this keycam, flew a bit with the Go Pro on my Trex-500 heli, pics below
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:23 PM
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One quick note...my #11, the time/date is NOT on (hooray!) out of the box . Just made a short video clip. In outside light, but rainy/cloudy day, not as good quality as the Go-Pro. Will upload to Vimeo, link to follow for remarks on quality. etc.

Also the supplied USB cable was giving an intermittent connection, when I went to transfer video clip to computer.
I thought problem was actual connector inside camera, but then used a Sony USB cable. No more intermittent connection problem.

here is the video clip..seems a bit brighter in the center, dark on the sides. Dark, cloudy day.
http://www.vimeo.com/29884693

here is video shot a few minutes later, with the Go Pro HD. Default video mode
http://www.vimeo.com/29886347

While it looks like I am further from the porch railing , with the Go-Pro I am standing at the same point, just inside the porch door.
Both test video clips can be watched at Vimeo, in Hi Def full screen, too

thanks for any suggestions
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Is there any picture how to open #11, I was looking on first page but didn't find anything; I don't want to broke it
If you have one of the jumbos, there is a link in the FAQs about opening since they are a bit different. The small cases are easy to open. Just remove the two screws at the narrow end, gently lift a little and push the case towards the wider end slightly to free the two halves.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 01:40 PM
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:06 PM
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The link in the FAQs to the firmware files has a description of what each does. The ones that say "remove time" do exactly that... no time stamp! Then it's just a metter of whether you want the camera to stop/save/continue every 20 min. or every 70 min. Your choice!

In the instructions, "next to" the DCIM folder does not mean "in" the DCIM folder. When you view the root directory (the first one that opens when you click on the flash drive file icon), that's where the firmware .bin file goes to flash it in. It will appear "next to" the DCIM folder icon when you view the root directory!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
ok, just received my #11 808 cam from HK. the vendor, is here

www.ebay.com/itm/Keyfob-cam-DV-LENS-Camera-DVR-video-camera-808HD-11-/150662729057?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231432 cd61

trying to figure out which of the five(?) different files to down load and overwrite the FW96630A file on the camera, to get "no Time".

Should I use the 70 minute file?

Instructions pasted in below.., place the FW....no time.bin file next to the DCIM folder? ; does this go IN the DCIM folder?? says next to the DCIM folder??

Remove Date/Time Instructions:

Use at own risk!!! Follow steps below.

#1 Turn on camera, plug in USB.

#2 Open the camera folder and place the FW96630A NO TIME.bin file next to the DCIM folder (root of camera)
Important Note: ((Do not rename or modify the .bin files))

#3 Unplug the USB and wait for the light to go off on its own.

#4 Turn on camera and wait for the light to appear (takes few seconds)

#5 Open the camera folder again but this time delete the file FW96630A.bin from the folder. Make sure to delete the file or the cam will keep installing the .bin file each time the cam powers up.

#6 Test your cam to see if Time/Date is gone.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

thanks TF.
How long should I charge new keycam? (Edit just read that my Late model #11, has red led on when charging, fully charged when red led is out..) With a 8GB card in the unit, will it record continuously until battery dies? I assume battery will die before microSD card is full.

While waiting for this keycam, flew a bit with the Go Pro on my Trex-500 heli, pics below
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjrell View Post
Hello guys,

I read an interesting thing about Mov videos rendering on windows

http://exposureroom.com/members/Marc...rials/post/34/

I used avidemux to test these settings, -11 brigthness was to much, -5 looks fine
...
P.S.: I'm using 0.67x wide lens
Thanks for posting your findings. The correction settings in AviDemux (or any other editor) will vary, though, depending on what program is used to play back the video as well as how each person has their monitor set for brightness, color, contast, etc. On mine, the original you posted actually looks better to my eye than after the correction, which has too much saturation and contrast. I can see more detail in the shadow area on the original, and colors do not look overly intense. It's good to know how to make the corrections you did, though, so everyone can get what looks best to them.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Oct 01, 2011 at 02:31 PM.
Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bdshort View Post
Another video with the Radian Pro. I had a second flight as well, but the camera quit a couple minutes into recording. I guess the 20 minute flight was as much as the battery could handle in 50 degree weather?
...
The battery can also just start to degrade down to 20 min. capacity with use. Mine did a lot sooner than expected. And cold weather will affect the performane as well as you say.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The link in the FAQs to the firmware files has a description of what each does. The ones that say "remove time" do exactly that... no time stamp! Then it's just a matter of whether you want the camera to stop/save/continue every 20 min. or every 70 min. Your choice!
thanks, don't need to modify time stamp in my #11, appears to be OFF from factory.
What is the default run time stop/save/continue on the latest #11s?
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mixer421 View Post
Thanks Tom, I've tested the card, a Transcend 8GB class 6 in a Belkin reader/writer and here are the h2testw results.
Test finished without errors.
You can now delete the test files *.h2w or verify them again.
Writing speed: 10.3 MByte/s
Reading speed: 17.2 MByte/s
H2testw v1.4
Looking at the FAQ on temperature, I did notice that the camera was quite hot after recording as a 'hatcam', though it was a very warm sunny day. Could this affect the performance or be a symptom of another problem?
Mike.
The camera runs very warm normally as mentioned in the FAQs. I doubt that is the cause, but who knows. Was the light level low? We know that will result in dropped frames. If you post a short clip showing the problem on Vimeo.com, it can downloaded (if you click on the permission toggle) for analysis.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
...
here is the video clip..seems a bit brighter in the center, dark on the sides. Dark, cloudy day.
http://www.vimeo.com/29884693

here is video shot a few minutes later, with the Go Pro HD. Default video mode
http://www.vimeo.com/29886347
...
The #11 clip looks normal for a dark cloudy day. The lens vignetting is amplified by the CMOS's lack of sensitivity to low light.

The GoPro has a larger lens and CMOS, so can illuminate it's CMOS sensor better to give brighter image across the entir frame. The $40 #11HD will never be able to match the video quality of a well designed camera the size and cost of the GoProHD. But the fisheye lens distortion of the GoPro will always be something that ruins an aerial video for me.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 320pilot View Post
thanks, don't need to modify time stamp in my #11, appears to be OFF from factory.
What is the default run time stop/save/continue on the latest #11s?
The 20 min. firmware was the original default, but that was before different firmware versions evolved. Different sellers may use different firmware as their default now. The only way to tell is to turn on the camera and let it record until it stops and see how long the individual clips are. You should do that at least once anyway, just to see how long the battery lasts after a full charge.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Thanks for posting your findings. The correction settings in AviDemux (or any other editor) will vary, though, depending on how what program is used to play back the video as well as how each person has their monitor set for brightness, color, contast, etc. On mine, the original you posted actually looks better to my eye than after the correction, which has too much saturation and contrast. I can see more detail in the shadow area on the original, and colors do not look overly intense. It's good to know how to make the corrections you did, though, so everyone can get what looks best to them.
It's true that many parameters enters in count, monitor, player, et caetera.

I just did a fast and "stupid" test according to what i read

I agree that colors are over saturated and contrast to high, anyway the result of the corrected video is more like the scenery was in real

I'll do more correction tests and report the results here
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The #11 clip looks normal for a dark cloudy day. The lens vignetting is amplified by the CMOS's lack of sensitivity to low light.

The GoPro has a larger lens and CMOS, so can illuminate it's CMOS sensor better to give brighter image across the entir frame. The $40 #11HD will never be able to match the video quality of a well designed camera the size and cost of the GoProHD. But the fisheye lens distortion of the GoPro will always be something that ruins an aerial video for me.

thanks Tom,
There are replacement lenses, to reduce fish eye problem with Go-Pro, but then you can't use WP case. Will try the #11 on my 3.2 meter sailplane, when we get better weather. Big advantage for me #11 versus Go Pro, is smaller profile, of #11 on sailplane.

With Go Pro on my sailplane, it flies around like a speed brake is out, lots of drag even when I remove WP case. I might even mount the #11 on T tail of a hotliner.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjrell View Post
It's true that many parameters enters in count, monitor, player, et caetera.

I just did a fast and "stupid" test according to what i read

I agree that colors are over saturated and contrast to high, anyway the result of the corrected video is more like the scenery was in real

I'll do more correction tests and report the results here
The new editing feature in Youtube works well, incl color adjust. Better than I expected, and WYSIWYG. YouTube sometimes seems to auto adjust uploads, so you can adjust from therE
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The new editing feature in Youtube works well, incl color adjust. Better than I expected, and WYSIWYG. YouTube sometimes seems to auto adjust uploads, so you can adjust from therE
Interesting! I'll check that too, thanks!
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kjrell View Post
Interesting! I'll check that too, thanks!
I posted an example here. I'm impressed, but the COOLEST part is you can edit from a cell phone!!
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 09:10 PM
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I just got one of these cameras a few days ago (from one of the listed vendors). Mine came with the date/time already off. But the exposure issue was pretty bad. I went ahead and installed the 20 min FW version (since that is all I need for my use) and it seemed to help quite a bit with the exposure, but it's still not perfect.

Now for a question - and I did read the FAQ. Has anyone tried enlarging the lens hole in the case to see if it helps with the exposure? It seems the lens is set back far enough that the case can cast a 'shadow' over it fairly easily perhaps triggering the change more frequently. I know some people have removed the case entirely to save weight. Has anyone noticed any improvement by doing that?

Also, I downloaded that SD format program and it formatted a 2GB card as FAT (not FAT32) and I had issues with the video files. Am I to assume nobody is using a 2GB card?
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The camera runs very warm normally as mentioned in the FAQs. I doubt that is the cause, but who knows. Was the light level low? We know that will result in dropped frames. If you post a short clip showing the problem on Vimeo.com, it can downloaded (if you click on the permission toggle) for analysis.
Thanks again Tom. I recorded 80 mins yesterday. The first 30 with the camera static on my windowsill was near perfect with only a couple of dropped frames. I then did a few jobs around the house and garden with the camera velcroed to the peak of my cap and had 2 more clips, each having over 400 dropped frames. Suspecting a dry joint or something loose, I opened the camera but found nothing visible with a strong magnifier. While it was open, I added a small piece of foam over the microphone to reduce that 'orrible wind noise. Two twenty minute flights yesterday evening produced perfect videos! Don't know what fixed it so I'll just wait and see if the problem re-appears.
Mike.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mixer421 View Post
Thanks again Tom. I recorded 80 mins yesterday. The first 30 with the camera static on my windowsill was near perfect with only a couple of dropped frames. I then did a few jobs around the house and garden with the camera velcroed to the peak of my cap and had 2 more clips, each having over 400 dropped frames. Suspecting a dry joint or something loose, I opened the camera but found nothing visible with a strong magnifier. While it was open, I added a small piece of foam over the microphone to reduce that 'orrible wind noise. Two twenty minute flights yesterday evening produced perfect videos! Don't know what fixed it so I'll just wait and see if the problem re-appears.
Mike.
Wow... you are the first to report anything like that if the bad video was shot outdoors during the day. Indoors is a different matter, especially if not brightly illuminated. At night with only normal room lighting, I get about 20%-25% dropped frames. Outdoors in daytime, even with heavy overcast, I don't get any dropped frames.

I have a defective #11 that seems to have a defective flash card interface. Data seems to write to the card normally, but reading from the card while in the camera is MUCH MUCH slower than it should be. I've tried different USB cables and ports on my computer, all of which work fine with a different #11, and different flash memory cards, all of which have normal read speeds when removed from the camera. Maybe you have something similar going on? The defective camera will record normally for about 1 min., then it shuts down. If I stop it manually within that time frame, I get good video. If I let it run until it stops, I get no saved file at all.

If yours continues to have problems, I'd ask the vendor for a replacement.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_a_l View Post
I just got one of these cameras a few days ago (from one of the listed vendors). Mine came with the date/time already off. But the exposure issue was pretty bad. I went ahead and installed the 20 min FW version (since that is all I need for my use) and it seemed to help quite a bit with the exposure, but it's still not perfect.

Now for a question - and I did read the FAQ. Has anyone tried enlarging the lens hole in the case to see if it helps with the exposure? It seems the lens is set back far enough that the case can cast a 'shadow' over it fairly easily perhaps triggering the change more frequently. I know some people have removed the case entirely to save weight. Has anyone noticed any improvement by doing that?

Also, I downloaded that SD format program and it formatted a 2GB card as FAT (not FAT32) and I had issues with the video files. Am I to assume nobody is using a 2GB card?
Can you be more specific on what you call exposure issues? Are you referring to the darkened edges of the video, the shift in the color balance that occurs when going from bright to dark scenes, or the small steps the camera make to adjust to the overall image brightness? There have been attempts (by me and others) to slightly enlarge the camera case hole as well as center the lens opening better in the hole to see if that has any effect on the edge darkening (vignetting). For me, it had no noticeable effect.

The lens angle of view is only about 60 deg. based on some tests that were posted here early in the thread, and I think edge darkening in the video is caused solely by the lens, not obstruction of light entering it. The other two issues I mentioned should show no difference from one firmware to the next since they are all supposed to have the same tweaks according to the developer. But the scene you are shooting can certain show different degrees of these, especially if the horizon is somewhere near the center of the frame. As the camera pans up and down across the horizon, you'll see shifts in brightness as well as occasional slight "jumps" in the color balance (from slight yellow hue in bright scenes to slight blue hue in dark scenes.) There is discussion of this in the FAQs.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 12:08 AM
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Joined Dec 2003
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File Format Preference -AVI or MOV?

I have closed this poll since we have a good sampling of user preferences, and the trend has been pretty stable through the last half of the voting. Thanks to all who participated.
In short, about 20% had no strong preference for one format or the other. The remaining 80% strongly preferred AVI over MOV by about 2.5 to 1.
Your input has been passed on to the camera developer, and because the results overwhelmingly favor AVI over MOV, I think we may see this offered as an OPTIONAL file output container in modified firmware. The video codec would remain H.264 as previously mentioned, and I think the MOV container would remain a firmware option as well.
I'll report here as soon as I find out anything more to report on this. I won't forget, so don't bother asking when it will be available!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Oct 02, 2011 at 12:11 AM. Reason: added link to final results
Old Oct 02, 2011, 12:31 AM
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thanks Tom for all your work. When I get my #11 cam up in the air, on a bright sunny day, I might post some video to have the "experts" tell me if it looks normal..
Will pull down the two video clips, #11 versus Go Pro in a few days. They used up my HD quota at Vimeo.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:39 AM
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Hi,

I'm not going through the 469 pages to see if anyone has already had this problem, so sorry if someone already solved this.

I have my #11 cam for some time now and I'm really happy with it, except that I can't turn on the webcam mode. It just doesn't happen anything. I also tried different button-pressing to see if my camera has some weird wiring or something, but still couldn't get it into webcam mode...

Any suggestions?
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Can you be more specific on what you call exposure issues? Are you referring to the darkened edges of the video, the shift in the color balance that occurs when going from bright to dark scenes, or the small steps the camera make to adjust to the overall image brightness? There have been attempts (by me and others) to slightly enlarge the camera case hole as well as center the lens opening better in the hole to see if that has any effect on the edge darkening (vignetting). For me, it had no noticeable effect.

The lens angle of view is only about 60 deg. based on some tests that were posted here early in the thread, and I think edge darkening in the video is caused solely by the lens, not obstruction of light entering it. The other two issues I mentioned should show no difference from one firmware to the next since they are all supposed to have the same tweaks according to the developer. But the scene you are shooting can certain show different degrees of these, especially if the horizon is somewhere near the center of the frame. As the camera pans up and down across the horizon, you'll see shifts in brightness as well as occasional slight "jumps" in the color balance (from slight yellow hue in bright scenes to slight blue hue in dark scenes.) There is discussion of this in the FAQs.
The 'exposure issue' is pretty much what everyone has been talking about - the abrupt change in saturation/brightness when the light level changes.

I initially did 3 tests (3 different locations walking around and panning) with the original firmware that came with the camera. As noted, that version had the time date stamp off. All 3 tests had terrible changes in the saturation/brightness levels. After I changed the firmware, I did the exact same three tests. It was only a few minutes later so there was no change in the weather (clear skies). Those 3 tests I walked the exact same path and did the same panning and it showed showed a significant improvement with the changes in levels. Maybe it is a fluke, but it worked better (although not perfect).

I have no edge darkening, but just thought that the case can cause a shadow over the lens pretty easily and that may be a contributing factor to the light level that it shifts at. I may play around with it some more and see what happens.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
Hi,

I'm not going through the 469 pages to see if anyone has already had this problem, so sorry if someone already solved this.

I have my #11 cam for some time now and I'm really happy with it, except that I can't turn on the webcam mode. It just doesn't happen anything. I also tried different button-pressing to see if my camera has some weird wiring or something, but still couldn't get it into webcam mode...

Any suggestions?
Just a guess, but are you using the right USB cable? Mine came with 2. One only supplies power (for the car adapter). I mistakenly tried using that one first and had the same problem, until I looked and saw that it only had 2 wires.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
Hi,

I'm not going through the 469 pages to see if anyone has already had this problem, so sorry if someone already solved this.

I have my #11 cam for some time now and I'm really happy with it, except that I can't turn on the webcam mode. It just doesn't happen anything. I also tried different button-pressing to see if my camera has some weird wiring or something, but still couldn't get it into webcam mode...

Any suggestions?
First, you don't have to go through 469 pages to get information. Learn to use the search function to zero in on posts about your topic... just searching on "webcam" will find a lot. Also, the FAQs in post #3 was set up so you can quickly find help for common problems without even having to do a search. Always go there first before posting questions.

Assuming you are pushing the buttons correctly and your USB cable/port are fully functional as mentioned, you should at least see/hear the alerts mentioned in the FAQs instructions when the camera goes into webcam mode. So when you say that nothing happens, do you mean you don't get these alerts? If you do get them, the camera should be in the webcam mode. Load your webcam program AFTER the cam is put into webcam mode. I've found that the camera is often not recognized reliably by the webcam program if it is already running before the camera is in webcam mode.

If you don't even get the alerts, I'd try flashing in the firmware again as a last resort. If that doesn't make a difference, your camera may have a defect.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_a_l View Post
The 'exposure issue' is pretty much what everyone has been talking about - the abrupt change in saturation/brightness when the light level changes.

I initially did 3 tests (3 different locations walking around and panning) with the original firmware that camera with the camera. As noted, that version had the time date stamp off. All 3 tests had terrible changes in the saturation/brightness levels. After I changed the firmware, I did the exact same three tests. It was only a few minutes later so there was no change in the weather (clear skies). Those 3 tests I walked the exact same path and did the same panning and it showed showed a significant improvement with the changes in levels. Maybe it is a fluke, but it worked better (although not perfect).

I have no edge darkening, but just thought that the case can cause a shadow over the lens pretty easily and that may be a contributing factor to the light level that it shifts at. I may play around with it some more and see what happens.
OK, that is something that still needs to be worked on in the firmware, and the developer has promised to improve it.

The "trigger" that causes this shift is very minute and very sudden. I found in examining some of my video that the change occurs between two adjacent video frames... one is good the next has the change. And this occurred while just shooting street scenes while riding a bicycle. In other aerial video with the horizon near the vertical center of a frame, just very slight pitch up/down movements of the plane cause the shifting. So it is very light level sensitive, and easier to trigger a change when there is a significant portion of the sky in the frame.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The "trigger" that causes this shift is very minute and very sudden. I found in examining some of my video that the change occurs between two adjacent video frames... one is good the next has the change. And this occurred while just shooting street scenes while riding a bicycle. In other aerial video with the horizon near the vertical center of a frame, just very slight pitch up/down movements of the plane cause the shifting. So it is very light level sensitive, and easier to trigger a change when there is a significant portion of the sky in the frame.
That is why I thought that if more of the lens was exposed to the surrounding light, then it may not triiger so often one way or the other. That perhaps if more light was hitting it, then it would stay at one level more.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 06:10 PM
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United States, MI, White Lake
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
There is no better converter to convert the native video from MOV to AVI while retaining the original video quality. This is because the MP4cam2AVI program in it's default mode does an exact copy of the audio and video, and merely repackages it from the MOV container to the AVI container. Since there is no re-encoding, your video is the same quality as the original. But with it's H.264 video codec, a lot more computing horsepower is needed to decode and play back at 30 fps. Your ancient hardware is apparently not capable of doing that, hence the choppy garbled playback.

When you used the "HD 16:9" video format (called XviD MPEG-4 TV HD 16:9 in the program selection box), you re-encoded the video using the Xvid video codec, which is why it took a long time to finish. This codec isn't as efficient in compressing, so your re-encoded file should be noticeably bigger (almost 20%), but is also easier to decode. The bit rate cannot be user set in the MP$cam2AVI program, but the option you picked keeps it high to maintain video quality. The test clip I just converted increased the video bit rate from about 7400 kbps to about 8400 kbps. Since the Xvid en-coding used by MP4cam2AVI works on your system, I'd stick with that codec.

There are other freeware converters which can load the native MOV file and do the re-encoding, some with the ability to also do some basic editing, such as trimming off unwanted sections of the video. But they will still take similar time to do the re-encoding on your computer. And I think to be able to play the video on your old hardware, you have no choice but abandon the H.264 codec and re-encode the video. Two freeware programs that can load the native MOV video, trim, and re-encode are the AviDemux editor and the Freemake video converter. Both of these are discussed further in the FAQ editing link. You can select the Xvid codec and also set the bit rates manually in these programs, so to keep the quality high, keep the bit rate with them up around 8400 for equal quality. If you need smaller files, you can try lower bit rates to see where the quality degrades to your lowest tolerance level.

You said the players you listed played the re-encoded file OK. What are you looking for in a different player to play the file "better"?
"But with it's H.264 video codec, a lot more computing horsepower is needed to decode and play back at 30 fps. Your ancient hardware is apparently not capable of doing that, hence the choppy garbled playback."

Does this refer to
A) Windows 98
B) My P4 2.8 processor
C) my video card
D) all of the above

Is it possible my video card settings are off? When I bought the computer I had a much better video card installed as I have a flight simulator that requires it. The sim works good with my video card.
I have a GeForce GT440 PCI Express card. EVGA Nvidia. I'm wondering if it is set wrong for watching the converted clips.

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
Danford1
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:26 PM
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The GeForce 440 should be plenty to handle the graphics, but I don't know if your OS can fully utilize it's on-board GPU to handle a lot of the number crunching load. Your PC might also be deficient in memory.

I have an Nvidia GeForce GTS 240 in my PC and it functions just fine with HD editing and playing, but I also am running W7 and have a quad-core i7 CPU and 12GB of ram on board!

Quote:
Originally Posted by danford1 View Post
"But with it's H.264 video codec, a lot more computing horsepower is needed to decode and play back at 30 fps. Your ancient hardware is apparently not capable of doing that, hence the choppy garbled playback."

Does this refer to
A) Windows 98
B) My P4 2.8 processor
C) my video card
D) all of the above

Is it possible my video card settings are off? When I bought the computer I had a much better video card installed as I have a flight simulator that requires it. The sim works good with my video card.
I have a GeForce GT440 PCI Express card. EVGA Nvidia. I'm wondering if it is set wrong for watching the converted clips.

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
Danford1
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:32 PM
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Joined May 2011
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Thank you.
I'll check to see how much ram I have.
Heck, ram is pretty cheap. I think I'll just buy a bunch more ;-)
Just have to figure out what type I have...
Danford1
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_a_l View Post
That is why I thought that if more of the lens was exposed to the surrounding light, then it may not triiger so often one way or the other. That perhaps if more light was hitting it, then it would stay at one level more.
Light from off axis and not in the direct field of view of the lens is undesirable because it just reflects and refracts around in the lens elements, contributing nothing to the recorded image quality. It only causes washout of the image and probably lens flare artifacts as well.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:39 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danford1 View Post
Thank you.
I'll check to see how much ram I have.
Heck, ram is pretty cheap. I think I'll just buy a bunch more ;-)
Just have to figure out what type I have...
Danford1
Don't take my guess on memory as a recommendation! If it were me, I'd put any extra cash I had into a piggy bank until there was enough there to get a modern PC.
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Old Oct 02, 2011, 07:48 PM
AMA #903699
Tony_Fletcher's Avatar
USA, VA, Alexandria
Joined Mar 2008
924 Posts
Another shot from the "hat cam!"

Here a quick video from the "hat cam" landing at Richmond (VA) International, runway 34.

KRIC landing (4 min 2 sec)
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
First, you don't have to go through 469 pages to get information. Learn to use the search function to zero in on posts about your topic... just searching on "webcam" will find a lot. Also, the FAQs in post #3 was set up so you can quickly find help for common problems without even having to do a search. Always go there first before posting questions.

Assuming you are pushing the buttons correctly and your USB cable/port are fully functional as mentioned, you should at least see/hear the alerts mentioned in the FAQs instructions when the camera goes into webcam mode. So when you say that nothing happens, do you mean you don't get these alerts? If you do get them, the camera should be in the webcam mode. Load your webcam program AFTER the cam is put into webcam mode. I've found that the camera is often not recognized reliably by the webcam program if it is already running before the camera is in webcam mode.

If you don't even get the alerts, I'd try flashing in the firmware again as a last resort. If that doesn't make a difference, your camera may have a defect.
Thanks for your answer. Unfortunately, I still couldn't get it into webcam mode. I flashed the firmware again and then tried three different USB-cables, but after I press the buttons (just like described on the first page of this thread), the red led remains as it is. My camera probably has a defect, I mean there's nothing else I could do, I think. Too bad... maybe I'll just buy another one, having two of these won't hurt
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
Thanks for your answer. Unfortunately, I still couldn't get it into webcam mode. I flashed the firmware again and then tried three different USB-cables, but after I press the buttons (just like described on the first page of this thread), the red led remains as it is. My camera probably has a defect, I mean there's nothing else I could do, I think. Too bad... maybe I'll just buy another one, having two of these won't hurt
OK. Just one last check to make sure... you are pressing and HOLDING DOWN first the shutter button, then WHILE DOING THAT, also pressing and HOLDING DOWN the power button for several seconds? It can take a few seconds for the web cam mode to take effect. If that's the case, but the camera works OK otherwise, I guess it must have some kind of defect, but still very useable if you don't need the webcam mode.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
OK. Just one last check to make sure... you are pressing and HOLDING DOWN first the shutter button, then WHILE DOING THAT, also pressing and HOLDING DOWN the power button for several seconds? It can take a few seconds for the web cam mode to take effect. If that's the case, but the camera works OK otherwise, I guess it must have some kind of defect, but still very useable if you don't need the webcam mode.
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing

And yeah, I love this little thing. Two days ago, I used a tic tac box and some tape and stuff to build a waterproof case and took it to the swimming bath. Unfortunately, the case wasn't really waterproof, so some water came inside, but the camera still worked and the video material is amazing, especially the underwater-footage since it is really stable.
PS: The problem with the webcam mode was already there before this "incident"

Another thing:
I recently thought about building a head-cam with this camera. The first thing I did was using duck tape and disposable 3D glasses from the cinema to create on, but it wasn't really comfortable. Then I ordered a 3$ headlight because I thought it was great for putting the camera on it, but I haven't tried it yet.
Another idea was to open the casing and turn the lens so that you can attach it vertically to some glasses or something, but for that you would have to build a custom casing and that's probably too much work. Have someone tried anything like this yet?
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
Yeah, that's exactly what I'm doing

And yeah, I love this little thing. Two days ago, I used a tic tac box and some tape and stuff to build a waterproof case and took it to the swimming bath. Unfortunately, the case wasn't really waterproof, so some water came inside, but the camera still worked and the video material is amazing, especially the underwater-footage since it is really stable.
PS: The problem with the webcam mode was already there before this "incident"

Another thing:
I recently thought about building a head-cam with this camera. The first thing I did was using duck tape and disposable 3D glasses from the cinema to create on, but it wasn't really comfortable. Then I ordered a 3$ headlight because I thought it was great for putting the camera on it, but I haven't tried it yet.
Another idea was to open the casing and turn the lens so that you can attach it vertically to some glasses or something, but for that you would have to build a custom casing and that's probably too much work. Have someone tried anything like this yet?
Just tape it to the bill of a ball cap! I've done that for a temporary mount, using a small wedge of foam under it to get it aligned with your view. Some people mount it on the underside of the bill to shield from the sun, then invert the video during editing if you mount it upside down so the buttons are still exposed.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:02 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
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Uh, here you go guys.

Comments welcome

Glider Tow (4 min 34 sec)


Yabba
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Uh, here you go guys.

Comments welcome

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwcP9_-RzU0

Yabba
Excellent, Yabba! Was the glider being "flown" while towed, or just hands off neutral on the sticks?
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Just tape it to the bill of a ball cap! I've done that for a temporary mount, using a small wedge of foam under it to get it aligned with your view. Some people mount it on the underside of the bill to shield from the sun, then invert the video during editing if you mount it upside down so the buttons are still exposed.
That would be too easy... damn, I always think too complicated thanks
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony_Fletcher View Post
Here a quick video from the "hat cam" landing at Richmond (VA) International, runway 34.

http://vimeo.com/29933674
Pretty good video considering the lighting if this was shot with the #11!
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 04:13 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Excellent, Yabba! Was the glider being "flown" while towed, or just hands off neutral on the sticks?
I was flying it. I put a Spektrum radio that I had in it (I'm a Futaba guy).

Rud/Ele/2xaile/tow hook release = 5 servos

Unfortunately the Walmart chuck glider has the L/D (glide angle) of the Space Shuttle WITH the drogue chutes deployed

But we proved the concept (I know other people have been towing RC for years) so now maybe we can get a "real" sailplane, i.e. more expensive, and use my 1/5 scale Cub or the Bev to tow with.

Yabba
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 05:10 PM
Must not buy more planes!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
That would be too easy... damn, I always think too complicated thanks
If you want to get really fancy ... I made this for my hatcam. Two pieces of Heavy Duty 3M Fastener (Velcro) on two pieces of thin plywood. I set them at an angle because I wear my hat pointed down too far and was always filming just beneath what I was looking at. I added a small piece of wire with a loop in the end to act as a crude reticle to assist in the aiming.

There's another piece of matching velcro on the brim of my hat and, of course, a strip on the bottom of all my cameras.

Some sample video from my setup:
Two Lightweight Stryker mods battle the wind. (5 min 1 sec)
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 05:23 PM
AMA #903699
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USA, VA, Alexandria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Pretty good video considering the lighting if this was shot with the #11!

Yes-that's a stock #11. Attached to my cap.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 09:03 PM
'FPV'er...not a "LOS'er
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Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 2003
18,209 Posts
I just received my #11 Jumbo today. Charged it, but haven't played with it much yet. Currently having issues trying to figure out when it's on and recording. I'm sure after a little experimenting I'll have it all figured out and ready to give it a flight trial.
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yabba View Post
Uh, here you go guys.

Comments welcome

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwcP9_-RzU0

Yabba
When the tow plane was landing, I was thinking the line was going to catch on something and flip it over. Darn. Still an interesting vid.
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 03:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
...
Another idea was to open the casing and turn the lens so that you can attach it vertically to some glasses or something, but for that you would have to build a custom casing and that's probably too much work. Have someone tried anything like this yet?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNimop View Post
That would be too easy... damn, I always think too complicated thanks
I'm glad that Tom's solution works for you. However, if you, or anybody else, needs to turn the lens by 90 there's just enough space in the existing keychain case to do this. I've highlighted the "just" because it's a very tight fit indeed because if the lens is placed too far down, the battery won't fit any more. The weak part is the left closing "tag" or "lug". It is very fragile. I posted a picture of the final result here.
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 06:47 AM
No bounce, No play.
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Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
3,422 Posts
Have had two #11's for a while now. Have to laugh at the comparisons of video quality to things like Go-Pro. (Because the comparison is not actually relevant) Nothing else I have seen can do all the important things that the keychain will.
1. I put it on 1.5 pound aircraft with no effect to the flying abilities.
2. The video is VERY good quality (No, not the top but VERY good)
3. It only costs 40 bones
4. It is small enough to be put places on an A/C that you could just not put a Go-Pro
5. I can use a very tiny custom made periscope to mount camera internal for an external view but near zero drag.

Being able to go in small places with light weight is its best feature, which there is no alternate solution for. A camera MUST be this small and light for me to even consider putting it on-board a model.

I can't see any solution that will do everything that I actually want. It gives me exactly the video I was looking for. Very helpful for improving my flying. You can see I need some. Landings are getting better.

Stark contrast to the earlier on-boards with the super crappy pen camera.

http://www.youtube.com/user/davidmc36?feature=mhsn

Current project is belly view just aft of nose-wheel on TO. Hope to get a run later this week before fall sets in.

The biggest thing I should do is spend the time to make a curved windscreen in front of the external mirror to streamline on smaller A/C. 3/8 X 1/2 is zero effect on 7' model.

The biggest thing somebody else should do is package this camera in a nice bullet shape like the coutour and include a sport type mounting system, it would just be smaller. Who actually wants to 'spy' with this camera? Is there anything like that currently? I should google that..........................
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Last edited by davidmc36; Oct 04, 2011 at 07:29 AM.
Old Oct 04, 2011, 07:41 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,393 Posts
All good points, but sometimes only a GoPro is good enough..

Jeb Corliss " Grinding The Crack" (3 min 30 sec)
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
All good points, but sometimes only a GoPro is good enough..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWfph...layer_embedded
Actually the point was that a Go-Pro would not even be usable for what Iwant to do. That is why the video quality comparison is irrelevant. But you made me laugh again, Cool. Sweet video for sure. That guy is insane.
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
All good points, but sometimes only a GoPro is good enough..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWfph...layer_embedded
Wow ... what a video

It was close to smash all the go-pro on the "bird" ... man ... in that point he was so close and without any escape possibility ...

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 05:50 PM
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so i'd like to put the 70 minute continuos firmware on my jumbo 808, but what is the procedure for actually doing it? when is "flashing" necessary? what is the root directory? any help would be appreciated
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by govt_chees View Post
so i'd like to put the 70 minute continuous firmware on my jumbo 808, but what is the procedure for actually doing it? when is "flashing" necessary? what is the root directory? any help would be appreciated
You must not have read the FAQ's in post #3 as indicated in the thread title. Do this for all new questions.. answers there.

<edit> Root directory = first folder that opens when you open the flash card. You'll see the DCIM folder there, too (but DON"T put the .bin file in that folder) <edit>
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You must not have read the FAQ's in post #3 as indicated in the thread title. Do this for all new questions.. answers there.

<edit> Root directory = first folder that opens when you open the flash card. You'll see the DCIM folder there, too (but DON"T put the .bin file in that folder) <edit>
i read #3, im just trying to figure out what i need to do to actually put the firmware on my camera
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Old Oct 04, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by govt_chees View Post
i read #3, im just trying to figure out what i need to do to actually put the firmware on my camera
Did you download the firmware archive file from the link? Did you extract the file in the archive? There is a text file in there with instructions on how to do it!
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 12:27 PM
mCPx
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Thanks for the tons of information in here. I got my 808 #11 v3 yesterday and couldn't wait to try out with my mCPx. I just rubberbanded the skids and tugged the keychain between the rubberband and the battery and it worked really well. Next, I'll dissect to remove the battery and the housing. Can't wait for calm sunny weather soon enough.

I notice the vignetting is quite noticeable (especially when you don't run fullscreen). Is this normal?
My mCPx 1st on-board flight clip (2 min 59 sec)
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 02:09 PM
Fidler & twidler
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Cranfield U.K.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Race Miata View Post
Thanks for the tons of information in here. I got my 808 #11 v3 yesterday and couldn't wait to try out with my mCPx. I just rubberbanded the skids and tugged the keychain between the rubberband and the battery and it worked really well. Next, I'll dissect to remove the battery and the housing. Can't wait for calm sunny weather soon enough.
Hey man you are REALLY REALLY good at pirouettes, I'll confess to ANYTHING to make them stop
Quote:

I notice the vignetting is quite noticeable (especially when you don't run fullscreen). Is this normal?
Yes. [Posts #1--#3]
Mike
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Race Miata View Post
Thanks for the tons of information in here. I got my 808 #11 v3 yesterday and couldn't wait to try out with my mCPx. I just rubberbanded the skids and tugged the keychain between the rubberband and the battery and it worked really well. Next, I'll dissect to remove the battery and the housing. Can't wait for calm sunny weather soon enough.

I notice the vignetting is quite noticeable (especially when you don't run fullscreen). Is this normal?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JsX4CVcXVM
Your video is virtually vibration free... not easy to attain with a lot of helis! Maybe you should show a picture of your camera mounting method. It might be your rotor is very well balance for starters, but your mount also might have really good dampening ability. Theres a lot of variables like size of rubber bands used, spacing, stiffness of the skids, frequency/amplitude of vibration, etc., but your picture might give others who fly helis some ideas for mounting their #11.

As mentioned, the vignetting is normal, especially for the dark overcast days we are having in the NW right now. Some #11s are better than others in that regard, but they all have it to some degree. The vignetting becomes less noticable as the over all scene brightness increases.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:20 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
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Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
Hey man you are REALLY REALLY good at pirouettes, I'll confess to ANYTHING to make them stop
Sorry if that makes anybody dizzy. I'm still a novice in terms of heli skills. In the limited backyard space there aren't many more maneuvers I'm capable of yet. The pirouettes look more perfect in FPV than they actually are though. I have to give credit to the mCPx's AS3X FBL system though. Very stable and confidence-inspired.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:39 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
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The setup was temporary and I just rushed to rig up something before the rain/nite-fall.

I think the lack of velcro/tape plus the heavy weight of the 250mAh camera battery greatly reduce high-frequency vibration, which I expect to come in when I remove the camera battery and doube-side tape the camera board to the flight battery holder.

Also, I recently took extra effort to make sure everything stay true/balanced/tracked after installing the Microheli CNC swash. Long story short, the 1st swash I bought at my LHS had a bad bearing such that when spun lightly the upper plate will spring back at certain point of its rotation. In anticipation to demonstrate the problem to my LHS for replacement, I took extra effort to make sure everything else is true/balanced/tracked. This 2nd swash I get still has a notchy bearing but not nearly as bad. I took extra effort to clean the swash and re-lube so my bird is as vibration-free as possible at this point.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 06:19 AM
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Australia, NT, Anmatjere
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Well got my camera happy with it until i wanted to do a simple trim /edit, tried AviDemux /Windows Live Movie Maker,and MP4cam2AVI coversion but got very bad quality [ very blocky ]

Then i stumbled opon MPEG_Streamclip_1.2 to do a simple .mov trim is childs play much less tweaking than AviDemux.

Also does avi conversion in no time and much better quality than MP4cam2AVI in my brief test.

BTW You have to install Quicktime player first a small price to pay as it does both, Try it i think youll like it.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Well got my camera happy with it until i wanted to do a simple trim /edit, tried AviDemux /Windows Live Movie Maker,and MP4cam2AVI coversion but got very bad quality [ very blocky ]

Then i stumbled opon MPEG_Streamclip_1.2 to do a simple .mov trim is childs play much less tweaking than AviDemux.

Also does avi conversion in no time and much better quality than MP4cam2AVI in my brief test.

BTW You have to install Quicktime player first a small price to pay as it does both, Try it i think youll like it.
Quicktime did not run on my W7 (64) PC the last time I tried it, but I would not use it if it did. I'm glad you found something to your liking, but you must not have used the best codecs/settings with the other tools you tried. Quality should not be an issue with any of them, especially with MP4cam2AVI! In direct copy mode, it simply takes what your camera puts out and puts it in a different package (AVI) without doing ANYTHING to the original quality. You might like Freemake also, since it can do simple trims, join clips together, as well as re-encode and re-package if you want, all with a very simple GUI interface, and Quicktime is not required.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Well got tired of download this filter that export to mp4 , all i can tell you is for a quick trim in mov no need to covert

And after i tested a avi conversion it plays perfect lots of easy options to, I offer this up for anyone Who would like to Try it.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Well got my camera happy with it until i wanted to do a simple trim /edit, tried AviDemux /Windows Live Movie Maker,and MP4cam2AVI coversion but got very bad quality [ very blocky ]

Then i stumbled opon MPEG_Streamclip_1.2 to do a simple .mov trim is childs play much less tweaking than AviDemux.

Also does avi conversion in no time and much better quality than MP4cam2AVI in my brief test.

BTW You have to install Quicktime player first a small price to pay as it does both, Try it i think youll like it.
RealPlayer also has a very simple trim feature, and it is quick, so does not appear to re-encode the video.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
RealPlayer also has a very simple trim feature, and it is quick, so does not appear to re-encode the video.
MP4cam2AVI can also do a simple trims by selecting any segment of the video (e.g. chopping off unwated beginning and end of clips). You can load in multiple clips, select the section of each you want, join those together, and output with direct copy of video and audio (no re-encoding), putting them in an .AVI container for viewing or import into other editors that don't accept .MOV files. Loaded clips can be previewed in the program (at accelerated playback speeds if desired).

I haven't found any program that can do this any better. The latest version is 2.93, which added the ability to import/export video files up to 4GB in length. So for loading native #11 clips, trimming, combining, and repackaging very fast with no quality loss (no re-encoding), this is the one. It can also re-encode into MP4 container if desired, but the video codec is limited to Xvid, so file sizes aren't as small as H.264.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 02:27 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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For anyone planning to only upload the video to YouTube, you can trim the video (and do other stuff like titles, color adjust etc) with their editor. I posted an example here
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Last edited by victapilot; Oct 06, 2011 at 02:35 PM.
Old Oct 06, 2011, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
It can also re-encode into MP4 container if desired, but the video codec is limited to Xvid, so file sizes aren't as small as H.264.
Does this codec limitation cause any limitations for playback that you are aware of. IOW, can all our devices use the Xvid encoded materials?
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by davidmc36 View Post
Does this codec limitation cause any limitations for playback that you are aware of. IOW, can all our devices use the Xvid encoded materials?
Like any other codec, you have to have the decoder installed in your system to play the video. I don't know what all your devices are that you are referring to, so can't answer that. But the Xvid format used by MP4cam2AVI actually uses the DivX video codec, which is fairly common and was used by many camcorders and DVD players, so if in doubt, try the program, create a video, and see what it will do. My PC plays it fine, but I have the (free) ffdshow-tryouts codec pack on my system which plays just about anything.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
My PC plays it fine, but I have the (free) ffdshow-tryouts codec pack on my system which plays just about anything.
I seem to play everything with VLC on PC too. Was more curious if you know of any issues getting codecs onto tablets, phones etc.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by davidmc36 View Post
I seem to play everything with VLC on PC too. Was more curious if you know of any issues getting codecs onto tablets, phones etc.
No, I don't have a fancy phone or tablet. The closest I use is a net book, and for all practical purposes it's not much different than a laptop computer. I'm not an "Iperson", so have only Windows based equipment. If you have an Iproduct, I'd think it could play .MOV files since it's an Apple standard.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 10:40 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
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I have playback problem on both my desktop and laptop. With the non-common 32kHz audio sampling rate, ffdshow plays back audio at wrong pitch. If I use media player classic's internal audio codec, video will play back at double speed. Once converted to avi with mp4cam2avi or convert to mp4 using xilisoft convertor then videos play fine.
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Old Oct 06, 2011, 11:38 PM
mCPx
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Vancouver, Canada
Joined Nov 2004
168 Posts
Today I dissected the camera, removed the covers and battery, soldered in micro JST connectors to steal power from the 3-in-1 board. As I expected, massive high-frequency vibration. Tried adding bottom cover and battery back but no luck. Perhaps the lens was lose after I cracked the glue to readjust focus.

Another problem is that at full throttle voltage drops so much the camera shuts itself down. I've always suspected lose connection somewhere between battery and 3-in-1 board. Will take the chance to investigate more tomorrow.

mCPx dissected 808 camera vibration (4 min 41 sec)
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 12:54 AM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Race Miata View Post
I have playback problem on both my desktop and laptop. With the non-common 32kHz audio sampling rate, ffdshow plays back audio at wrong pitch. If I use media player classic's internal audio codec, video will play back at double speed. Once converted to avi with mp4cam2avi or convert to mp4 using xilisoft convertor then videos play fine.
Hmmm... I have no issues like that with the native files with any player/editor I have on any of my hardware. It might have something to do with the .MOV container handling on your system causing those strange issues. The ffdshow-tryouts codecs have always worked normally on my computers.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 01:37 AM
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Austria
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Here is a video from the #11 ... after got a sink in the lake

It is looking to work fine like new:

Lago Bleu / Lago Blu - Cervinia - Aerial Video (2 min 47 sec)


Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 02:36 AM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
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United States, LA, Moreauville
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Just checking in to the #11 thread... My little camera has been feeling neglected lately, so I stuck some velcro to my Easy Star and let the little keychain tag along for a couple of flights... lol I had forgotten just how well they work given their size and price! I remember having a lot of vibration issues, but this one seem to be somewhat smooth. There are some vibrations at certain points in the throttle range, but nothing terrible. One the last flight I threw my old #3 on looking out the back for a rear view. Both of these cameras are getting old now and still working great! The #11 is one of the first few ordered right after they came out, and the #3 is a bit older than that.

By the way, audio in the first one is from the #11, and in the second one it's from the #3.

Easystar FPV with #11 808 HD camera (5 min 38 sec)


Easy Star FPV, another crash! (10 min 8 sec)
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 06:11 AM
rcflyer
UK
Joined Jun 2010
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Hi,
I this the correct cam?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/camcorder-12...7985878&sr=8-1
Thanks
Jim
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 06:18 AM
Registered User
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjim11 View Post
Hi,
I this the correct cam?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/camcorder-12...7985878&sr=8-1
Thanks
Jim
No, most likely it is a fake HD keycam, one to be avoided.

The #11 is always advertised as 1280x720

Tchuss

e_lm_70
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmc36 View Post
I seem to play everything with VLC on PC too. Was more curious if you know of any issues getting codecs onto tablets, phones etc.
With Android 2.2, I was pluging the micro SD in the Tablet, and I could see the video from #11 directly without any additional "manipulation"

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: iPhone and iPad have no SD support ... so have fun with them
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 06:34 AM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
With Android 2.2, I was pluging the micro SD in the Tablet, and I could see the video from #11 directly without any additional "manipulation"

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: iPhone and iPad have no SD support ... so have fun with them
They have an SD reader connector for pulling off photos. I've not tried it to see if it will play the videos.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC531ZM/A

Quote:
iPad and the Camera Connection Kit support standard photo formats, including JPEG and RAW, along with SD and HD video formats, including H.264 and MPEG-4.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
With Android 2.2, I was pluging the micro SD in the Tablet, and I could see the video from #11 directly without any additional "manipulation"

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: iPhone and iPad have no SD support ... so have fun with them
FYI - Just tested the camera connection kit SD reader on my iPad with videos from the #11, imports and plays them fine

Nice way to view your videos at the field if needed.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by schooner2000 View Post
FYI - Just tested the camera connection kit SD reader on my iPad with videos from the #11, imports and plays them fine

Nice way to view your videos at the field if needed.
You need an extra plug to your iStuff ... other devices support it straight forward ... but if you have both, normally the iStuff have a nice display and lot of CPU power, so the video should be played good there

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: With the keycam #8 (the SD version) I was able to play the video on my old Nokia phone ... but the #11 the video is too heavy for my old phone ... but I guess the new Nokia phone should support the video also for the #11 ... anyhow ... with the new phone with 1Ghz processor, it should be not a big thing to display the 720p video
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
You need an extra plug to your iStuff ... other devices support it straight forward ... but if you have both, normally the iStuff have a nice display and lot of CPU power, so the video should be played good there

Tchuss

e_lm_70

ps: With the keycam #8 (the SD version) I was able to play the video on my old Nokia phone ... but the #11 the video is too heavy for my old phone ... but I guess the new Nokia phone should support the video also for the #11 ... anyhow ... with the new phone with 1Ghz processor, it should be not a big thing to display the 720p video
Yes extra plug for iDevices. As for other devices supporting it that depends on the device. Not all Android devices have an SD slot either such as the Samsung Galaxy Tab.

Not looking to get into a pissing match over brands, I have multiple Android and Apple and other devices, all have their pros and cons. Just making it known that the iPad does indeed support SD cards and video from the #11.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 08:27 AM
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Australia, NT, Anmatjere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
RealPlayer also has a very simple trim feature, and it is quick, so does not appear to re-encode the video.
Thanks ill try it , now here is one to keep an eye on

http://trac.videolan.org/vlmc/

One word of warning folks,
Quote:
Please keep in mind that this is an early release, and that it will (probably) crash many times eat your dog.
I dont have a dog... so it just crashes! but when stable this will be a winner.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Just checking in to the #11 thread... My little camera has been feeling neglected lately, so I stuck some velcro to my Easy Star and let the little keychain tag along for a couple of flights... lol I had forgotten just how well they work given their size and price! I remember having a lot of vibration issues, but this one seem to be somewhat smooth. There are some vibrations at certain points in the throttle range, but nothing terrible. One the last flight I threw my old #3 on looking out the back for a rear view. Both of these cameras are getting old now and still working great! The #11 is one of the first few ordered right after they came out, and the #3 is a bit older than that.

By the way, audio in the first one is from the #11, and in the second one it's from the #3.
...
Nice editing, Keith. This REALLY shows how much work needs to be done to stabilize the color saturation/hue on the #11! The #3 color PIP views look so much nicer (on my monitor).

BTW.... nice landing strip you have!
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 11:17 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoto View Post
Thanks ill try it , now here is one to keep an eye on

http://trac.videolan.org/vlmc/

One word of warning folks,

I dont have a dog... so it just crashes! but when stable this will be a winner.
Looks interesating, but the most recent build available for downloading at this site is over a year old. I wonder how active the development really is?
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Joined Sep 2011
6 Posts
Easily extend the lens connection

I want to keep my plane aero dynamic so I want to take apart the camera and put all the electronics inside the plane (with the exception of the lens). I recall either a post or a video showing how to remove the lens by desoldering all those little wires but it's kinda hard since the solder tends grip onto multiple contacts on the board... Is there an easier way? If so, let me know! Or, maybe Chuck can make a thread that asks for camera features... I want a lens with a jack at the end or something like that. And I want (obviously) an extension cord anywhere from 6" to 36" that will link the camera and the lens together. Let's hear some of your ideas or comments.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 11:39 AM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powertrance View Post
...
I want a lens with a jack at the end or something like that. And I want (obviously) an extension cord anywhere from 6" to 36" that will link the camera and the lens together. Let's hear some of your ideas or comments.
You may get your wish on the lens ribbon cable connection... soon! Stay tuned here!

It's unknown how long an extension of the ribbon cable can be before it affects the video...you might be the first to try it and tell us!
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You may get your wish on the lens ribbon cable connection... soon! Stay tuned here!

It's unknown how long an extension of the ribbon cable can be before it affects the video...you might be the first to try it and tell us!
AWESOME! Thanks for the update! Will keep my eyes peeled Oh, and I would love to be the first to try it, so sign me up as a beta tester... wink, wink....
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