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Old Jan 13, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Well not quite... you can only conclude that the card was in the camera when it died. This could happen in ANY camera.
FYI, just inserterd a new TF card in my camera, and guess what.... It also died! So now I dare to conclude that my camera kills TF cards!

I tried to recover with Ultimate Boot CD, which has a low level (operating system independant) recovery tool for flash cards... But even this tool doesn't see the card. Telephone doesn't see it. And the normal photocamera locks up (not able to format it). So yes, the cards are 100% destroyed.

As this was with a #3 cam, and also I think it never happened to anyone else, I will not use the camera anymore and not bother you anymore in this thread .
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Thanks for pics tom...I was wondering why my cam didnt record as good as everyone elses...I was getting very grainy videos...I tried to refocus and it didnt get better...then I noticed the pics on chucks site...well...you can see what Im talking about here look at the battery wires compared to yours...I think I got a reject camera that was fixed and sent out...

Looking at the auto plug pic I posted my fingers are on the cable end going to camera...it comes apart ez if you hold the cable and pull one side at seam...it dont snap together it kinda pushes together....the silver ring at front dont come off but I got it opened enought to slide out circuit board...

I did try auto plug on old #3 cam to see what happens and that was a bad idea...the cam didnt light up at all...after unplugging it still no lights...a few minutes later the cam did work again but I wont do that again...LOL
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by finster View Post
Thanks for pics tom...I was wondering why my cam didnt record as good as everyone elses...I was getting very grainy videos...I tried to refocus and it didnt get better...then I noticed the pics on chucks site...well...you can see what Im talking about here look at the battery wires compared to yours...I think I got a reject camera that was fixed and sent out...
EDIT: Nevermind, I just double checked and my wiring is exactly the same as Tom's. Don't know what I was thinking....Old Timer Disease or something

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
finster,

That's interesting. My wires are like yours and the pos goes thru the hole in the circuit board and is soldered on the opposite side from the neg. Not sure if that's what you are referring to or not but mine appears like yours.

Haven't had any problems with it....yet.

Yabba
That is very interesting! I know you bought yours before I did, Yabba, and the vendor did say they had made some changes from earlier models, but yours has a good picture. I wonder what other changes they might have made other than the point where power is supplied???. I didn't see any numbers on my circuit board that might indicate a date or revision.

In looking at my circuit board picture to where your red battery wires are soldered, it almost looks like that solder point on mine has some "ragged" solder there, as if the red wire may have been soldered there at some point, and was changed. I'm going to take a much closer look at my board to see if the picture is correct or just a bad image.

finster, I'd think you could get a replacement camera from your vendor, especially if you show him an example of the problem. If for some reason that fell through (or if he just sends you another camera and doesn't want yours back), I'd try resoldering the power leads to the pads where mine are... your camera has them too. If the board then smokes, no big loss, maybe?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
FYI, just inserterd a new TF card in my camera, and guess what.... It also died! So now I dare to conclude that my camera kills TF cards!
...
Now I might be inclined to agree! Electronics can fail by themselves in the camera, too. Sorry it cost you a second TF card to come to that conclusion!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by clx1 View Post
The Blackberry charger has a rated output of 5VDC at 500mA while many generic wall warts are only outputting 100mA to 300mA.
Maybe the camera is supersensitive to the input current.

I haven't received my 808HD yet but can report that my Blackberry 9630 is very touchy about the input mah on a wall-wart. It will only charge when 500mah is being delivered.

I learned this on a recent trip out of town. I brought a 300mah wall-wart and the BB's USB cable. When it didn't charge the phone I found a store near my hotel selling a 1000mah 5v USB brick -- still no dice. When I got home I tried a 700mah charger with equal results. In some instances the phone will detect and show the connection with a lightening bolt over the charge indicator bar, but it does not take a charge unless it's receiving a 500mah current.

Dave
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
EDIT: Nevermind, I just double checked and my wiring is exactly the same as Tom's. Don't know what I was thinking....Old Timer Disease or something

Yabba
I think maybe it was from drinking too much "lens cleaning solution" and listening to too much banjo music!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:35 PM
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Point is that a wall charger is normally not "sending" current, but is just a constant voltage source capable of delivering a certain amount of current at that voltage (if demanded by the load).
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dghutt View Post
Maybe the camera is supersensitive to the input current.

I haven't received my 808HD yet but can report that my Blackberry 9630 is very touchy about the input mah on a wall-wart. It will only charge when 500mah is being delivered.

I learned this on a recent trip out of town. I brought a 300mah wall-wart and the BB's USB cable. When it didn't charge the phone I found a store near my hotel selling a 1000mah 5v USB brick -- still no dice. When I got home I tried a 700mah charger with equal results. In some instances the phone will detect and show the connection with a lightening bolt over the charge indicator bar, but it does not take a charge unless it's receiving a 500mah current.

Dave
<edit> Oops, Mavlo77 beat me to the post button<edit>

I think you meah mA (current), not mAh (capacity) ratings. But the ratings on the charger is what it CAN do, not what it WILL do. The device attached will draw the current it needs at the voltage available, assuming the supply can deliver the required current. A supply with a larger current rating does not mean the device will necessarily draw more power from it (e.g. just like my motor doesn't draw any more current from a 2200 mAh battery than a 1200 mAh battery if the voltage to the motor is the same.)

From your description of the problem, it sounds more like there may be an intermittant connection on the USB plug in your phone... maybe just dirty contacts in the plug, poor spring force on one of the pins, or even fractured solder connection on the plug inside the camera.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Looks to me like I got a refurbished camera...Im really starting to think these cams are all refurbished one way or another...I sent it back to eletoponline on the 4th and told him it had very bad video...I just noticed the circuit board yesterday while looking at pics...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 03:16 PM
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17094229]That is very interesting! I know you bought yours before I did, Yabba, and the vendor did say they had made some changes from earlier models, but yours has a good picture. I wonder what other changes they might have made other than the point where power is supplied???. QUOTE]

OK, you can stop being confused.

I knew I had seen the wires separate like in Finsters images somewhere.

It IS the second camera I got that has the same wiring as yours (Tom's).

Opening the first camera reveals wiring like Finsters. The pos wire goes thru the hole in the circuit board and solders to the opposite side from the neg wire .

Dangnabit, I knew that i had seen that wiring before

Cue the Banjo music Victa, and pass the Vodka

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 03:57 PM
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17094741]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
That is very interesting! I know you bought yours before I did, Yabba, and the vendor did say they had made some changes from earlier models, but yours has a good picture. I wonder what other changes they might have made other than the point where power is supplied???. QUOTE]

OK, you can stop being confused.

I knew I had seen the wires separate like in Finsters images somewhere.

It IS the second camera I got that has the same wiring as yours (Tom's).

Opening the first camera reveals wiring like Finsters. The pos wire goes thru the hole in the circuit board and solders to the opposite side from the neg wire .

Dangnabit, I knew that i had seen that wiring before

Cue the Banjo music Victa, and pass the Vodka

Yabba
You've got two of these already? Are you sure it's not just double vision from all the Vodka?!

OK, assuming you really do have two of them, have you done the date stamp removal on both of them? I thought maybe the power wiring diffences might be a telltale for whether the firmware flash works or bricks the camera? Can you see any difference in the video (other than maybe minor focus differences) between the two, like color saturation, contrast, brightness, etc?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by finster View Post
Looks to me like I got a refurbished camera...Im really starting to think these cams are all refurbished one way or another...I sent it back to eletoponline on the 4th and told him it had very bad video...I just noticed the circuit board yesterday while looking at pics...
These cameras have not been out very long. I don't think they are refurbished, as in sold once, returned with flaws, repaired by the vendor, and resold. But I know they made some design changes from the early ones, one of which gave the ability to flash in new firmware vs brick the camera... the vendor told me that much.

Some of the changes could have just been different firmware, but the power wiring may have been part of the change as well. And they very possibly could have had some of the prior production run unsold, and they made the mods to those rather than scrap them.

Attached are a couple pictures showing a small "hook" of solder on the point where your red power wire was soldered, so that sure looks like a wire had been there at some point, and was unsoldered without "cleaning up" the remaining solder with the iron after removal. I also checked your black wire termination point on mine (on one of the reset switch pins on the opposite side of the circuit board), and it looks clean. But that doesn't mean it didn't have the black wire soldered there at some point. I'm really curious, now, and will ask my HD Camera Guy about these two different cameras?

All I know is mine works pretty good. Did you try the date removal firmware swap before you sent yours in? I assume yours was not bricked before to sent it back.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
<edit> Oops, Mavlo77 beat me to the post button<edit>

I think you meah mA (current), not mAh (capacity) ratings. But the ratings on the charger is what it CAN do, not what it WILL do. The device attached will draw the current it needs at the voltage available, assuming the supply can deliver the required current. A supply with a larger current rating does not mean the device will necessarily draw more power from it (e.g. just like my motor doesn't draw any more current from a 2200 mAh battery than a 1200 mAh battery if the voltage to the motor is the same.)

From your description of the problem, it sounds more like there may be an intermittant connection on the USB plug in your phone... maybe just dirty contacts in the plug, poor spring force on one of the pins, or even fractured solder connection on the plug inside the camera.
Tom,

Above in Bold. You just described my Blackberry.

Bill
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Tom,

Above in Bold. You just described my Blackberry.

Bill
Ha... not uncommon problem with tiny plugs lugged all over outside and plugged/unplugged hundreds of times. Were you able to isolate and fix your problem?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:31 PM
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17095080]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
You've got two of these already? Are you sure it's not just double vision from all the Vodka?!

OK, assuming you really do have two of them, have you done the date stamp removal on both of them? I thought maybe the power wiring diffences might be a telltale for whether the firmware flash works or bricks the camera? Can you see any difference in the video (other than maybe minor focus differences) between the two, like color saturation, contrast, brightness, etc?
Quote:
assuming
?

Yes, I have done the timestamp removal on both of them.

Differences? Hard to say but I really like the second one better (since it's still working )

Camera 1

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=245

Camera 2

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post17061771

can't do a side by side comparison but number 2 seems better, especially after I focused it

Oh well, what's 40 big ones down the drain for an old retired guy on a fixed income

Yabba

edit, BTW, you might notice the last line of text in the camera 1 post. It should tell you all you need to know
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Ha... not uncommon problem with tiny plugs lugged all over outside and plugged/unplugged hundreds of times. Were you able to isolate and fix your problem?
A couple of new USB cables allows me to charge off my computers. The factory charger is useless now.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 04:42 PM
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17095386]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post

?
...
Oh well, what's 40 big ones down the drain for an old retired guy on a fixed income

Yabba
Oops.. I forgot the smiley

But about "what's 40 big ones...?"

That's a life time supply of lens cleaner! Or a month of evening "recovery breaks" for thread starters...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 05:22 PM
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Tom- actually I mean refurbished as in rejects from factory fixed and sold...it does look like they were tring to bypass something...maybe the charging circuit...who knows...im not that much into eletronics to say for sure...the videos werent much better than my #3 cam so I figured something was wrong after seeing other videos surface...I did swap firmware but it did nothing to make video better...It wasnt bricked it just had very bad video...strange colors, slower reaction to light, grainy video...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 05:26 PM
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I was curious about the car charger, and what was going on with the other pins in the plug, so I opened mine up... There is only two wires coming out of the cable into the charger. So I opened up the USB connector, and still only found the same two wires. All the other pins are just open and not connected. It seems this is just another dumb charger...

Be careful if you open it up though, the red wire pulled off the connected when I opened mine. The wires were glued in very well! It's a simple fix, but still something to be aware of...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
I was curious about the car charger, and what was going on with the other pins in the plug, so I opened mine up... There is only two wires coming out of the cable into the charger. So I opened up the USB connector, and still only found the same two wires. All the other pins are just open and not connected. It seems this is just another dumb charger...

Be careful if you open it up though, the red wire pulled off the connected when I opened mine. The wires were glued in very well! It's a simple fix, but still something to be aware of...
Can someone explain why the red wire goes in Pin 4 and not Pin 1?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Hmm... Good point, I didn't even realize that!

I just double checked with the actual contacts in the connector, and pin 5 is ground, pin 4 is positive. Normal pinouts for mini-usb show pin 4 as "not connected"... Maybe they're using an otherwise "extra" pin for charging?

Also, the outer metal part is not connected to ground. Not sure if they usually are on mini-usb, but I would have thought so.

Searching, I found some more...

Quote:
galapogos <goister@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm wondering what the pinout of the mini USB connector is?

There's more than just one mini USB connector.

> I googled for this and found the following 2 standards:
> Pin 1 - VBUS
> Pin 2 - D-
> Pin 3 - D+
> Pin 4 - unconnected
> Pin 5 - GND

> Pin 1 - VBUS
> Pin 2 - D-
> Pin 3 - D+
> Pin 4 - connected to pin 5
> Pin 5 - GND

> So is Pin 4 unconnected or grounded?

You see both approaches.

> I tried probing the mini-USB connector of a 2.5" HDD enclosure that I have with
> a multimeter and pin 4 is apparently grounded as well. Does it even matter?

Nope, doesnt matter if you ground an unconnected pin.

> Also, is the shell also grounded directly

Usually not, but it sometimes is.

> or does it have any capacitors?

Varys.
So, if some cables have pin 4 grounded, wouldn't that be bad for out little cameras? Good reason to watch what cable you use on it, and possibly why some camera are getting hot when used in webcam mode for a while?

Edit - On second thought, I'm now wondering if the red wire did in fact come off of that pin... I assumed it did because there was a little solder left on it, but it also looked like the wired had been hand soldered. Maybe it didn't come off of pin 4 afterall... Anyone care to check the output on their charger and verify it for me? If I've given some bad info I'll edit the post to reflect that...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:16 PM
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17094741]
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I knew I had seen the wires separate like in Finsters images somewhere.

It IS the second camera I got that has the same wiring as yours (Tom's).

Opening the first camera reveals wiring like Finsters. The pos wire goes thru the hole in the circuit board and solders to the opposite side from the neg wire .
Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:20 PM
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[QUOTE=clx1;17096802]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
Huh, that is interesting. I was able to remove the datestamp on both however so that may be a good clue but there must be more to it.

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:29 PM
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[QUOTE=yabbadaba2;17096840]
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Originally Posted by clx1 View Post

Huh, that is interesting. I was able to remove the datestamp on both however so that may be a good clue but there must be more to it.

Yabba
Yes - so when I say the v1 cams may be "at risk", I mean that these cams might not be flashable by the user but could have been updated at the factory by flashing the EEPROM properly or simply had it replaced, as the vendor suggested to me to do myself. However, it sounds like the cams with no red wire going through a hole in the PCB have consistently been able to be flashed successfully by the user.

It would be fun to know if there is fact-based support for this hypothesis without having to brick too many v1 cams.....

clx1
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 07:58 PM
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[QUOTE=clx1;17096802]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Hmmmmm - I am now gettin' a picture.

When I volunteered to risk bricking my first cam, I did open it and noticed that the red wire to the LiPo was going through a hole on the PCB and terminated on what appears to an SMD resistor or diode. This was the poor sucker that had to be returned to China because the date stamp removal program bricked it butt good.

When I received my replacement cam, I opened it again and voilą, the red wire to the LiPo is now connected to an SMD component on the same side of the PCB!

Did we just crack the v1 / v2 mystery?? That v1 are "at risk" units and v2 are safe to update with the firmware supplied? Can someone verify this?? BTW, after focusing, my v2 cam is sharper and has more resolution than anything has a right to be at $39.95 delivered.

clx1
I just asked Yabba that question, and he confirmed then, and again just now, that he has one of each and both were converted successfully. So we can rule that out as the tell tale, which confirms what the vendor told me... there is no way to tell visually!

I have also asked My Camera Guy about the two different battery wire termination schemes, and why the two different methods. It may be something simple, like one way is easier or faster to do without risking accidentally shorting the battery wires during soldering (mine are very close together and could be easily bridged with solder if not careful)! If you look closely, both schemes terminate the wires in about the same location, just on opposite sides of the circuit board, and those points may have continuity through the board.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:00 PM
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[QUOTE=clx1;17096933]
Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post

Yes - so when I say the v1 cams may be "at risk", I mean that these cams might not be flashable by the user but could have been updated at the factory by flashing the EEPROM properly or simply had it replaced, as the vendor suggested to me to do myself. However, it sounds like the cams with no red wire going through a hole in the PCB have consistently been able to be flashed successfully by the user.

It would be fun to know if there is fact-based support for this hypothesis without having to brick too many v1 cams.....

clx1
Only one other person other than yourself has posted in this thread that they bricked their camera from the date firmware swap.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:12 PM
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17097223]
Quote:
Originally Posted by clx1 View Post
Only one other person other than yourself has posted in this thread that they bricked their camera from the date firmware swap.
So it must have had something to do with ME and my fiddly fingers. The other poster's description of his bricked camera was identical to mine...only a short flashing of the Red LED and nothing....the silence is still vivid im my mind.

If everyone is able to flash then it is indeed happy times for everyone. Thanks, Tom!

clx1
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Hmm... Good point, I didn't even realize that!

I just double checked with the actual contacts in the connector, and pin 5 is ground, pin 4 is positive. Normal pinouts for mini-usb show pin 4 as "not connected"... Maybe they're using an otherwise "extra" pin for charging?

Also, the outer metal part is not connected to ground. Not sure if they usually are on mini-usb, but I would have thought so.

Searching, I found some more...



So, if some cables have pin 4 grounded, wouldn't that be bad for out little cameras? Good reason to watch what cable you use on it, and possibly why some camera are getting hot when used in webcam mode for a while?

Edit - On second thought, I'm now wondering if the red wire did in fact come off of that pin... I assumed it did because there was a little solder left on it, but it also looked like the wired had been hand soldered. Maybe it didn't come off of pin 4 afterall... Anyone care to check the output on their charger and verify it for me? If I've given some bad info I'll edit the post to reflect that...
Well first off, the red wire in the car charger cable must have the +5V on it (assuming black is ground) from the other end that plugs into the car 12v port. So it has to have been connected to a pin somewhere, or there is no completed circuit to the camera. And if other USB plug chargers do in fact charge the camera battery, then their pin with +5V on it has to be the same in the car charger, or have a jumper to the same pin, or the camera would not charger from a generic charger.

Yet, there is some definitive difference in the car charger from all other USB plug chargers I have tried, and I say that because I just did a car charger test with the HD camera cord. When I plug in the car charger, the red LED does NOT come on (as it does with all other USB plug chargers I've tried, including the PC USB port), but reportedly the camera IS still charging.

Further, when pushing the power button again, the yellow LED lights with all the chargers, but when then pushing the record button, ONLY the HD car charger will start a recording. The others just do nothing (other than continue to charge, presumably).

I'm sure some one will soon confirm the definitive car charger pin/shroud configuration scheme.

The camera gets considerably warmer when connected to its car charger and is shooting video at the same time, but this is expected... the video processor chip is working hard and consuming more current!

I think we will find the "emergency charger" accessory works just like the car charger.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:23 PM
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I'm getting all about who posted what and who is quoting who.

Yabba, What exactly happened to camera 1? or is it a secret?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:27 PM
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If the car charger is in fact supplying 5V to pin 4, maybe that's the key to using an external lipo for longer duration? I wouldn't try it unless someone else confirms it, and won't be plugging my car charger into my camera until I know for sure that the red wire does in fact go to pin 4...
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lostheli View Post
I'm getting all about who posted what and who is quoting who.

Yabba, What exactly happened to camera 1? or is it a secret?
Naw, it ain't no secret. Static Electricity is the suspect I suspect I sucessfully removed the datestamp and got bold and decided to try focusing. I started having to handle it pretty rough to get the lens to come unglued (I kept scraping and trying to turn, scrape
somemore ... ) I must have forgotten to ground myself out on the metal frame for the usb plug or the card frame and I probably touched something I shouldn't have. Or I may have touched the outputs from the processor with my finger.

After that I almost didn't try to re-focus the second camera but I'm pigheaded and used more care this time. I even wore rubber gloves

What's the saying? Fly or Die? That was kind of the way I felt with the second one.

I just never mentioned it because I was embarassed to admit that I had blown up $40.

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
If the car charger is in fact supplying 5V to pin 4, maybe that's the key to using an external lipo for longer duration? I wouldn't try it unless someone else confirms it, and won't be plugging my car charger into my camera until I know for sure that the red wire does in fact go to pin 4...
Heck Keith, I'll dig mine out (I have 2 )

BRB

You might as well go to bed. I got to figure out a way to test this. I need a shot of vodka
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Yabba,

Bummer. I have opened up and adjusted three cameras and nothing bricked yet. I must be expelling plenty of hot humid air when I do it or simply lucky.

Bill
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Just got my 2!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:45 PM
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I just never mentioned it because I was embarassed to admit that I had blown up $40.

Yabba
Well my $40 flew away with my $100 plane. Talk about embarrassing. I'm gonna have to change my name to lostplane for awhile.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Well my $40 flew away with my $100 plane. Talk about embarrassing. I'm gonna have to change my name to lostplane for awhile.
Big Bummer. Sorry to read about losing you plane with a new camera. What's the story?

Bill
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:13 PM
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What happens if memory card fills or battery gets low while recording

I just did a test to see what happens to a video recording if the memory card fills up while still recording. Happily, the camera detects the nearly full card, stops recording, and properly saves the file (as it should).

My test was with a 4GB flash card using the dedicated car charger for power. I had 4,061,822,976 bytes of video data recorded on the card with 753,664 bytes of free space remaining. The free space remaining would only hold about .85 seconds (25 frames) of video, so I think the camera did very well to record and safely save all it could!

On the down side, if the battery power gets too low to power the camera while recording, the video in progress at the time may NOT be saved. Some users report their partial file is saved, but neither of my two cameras would save the file partial clip. Ironically, though, when I flashed in the "continuous recording" firmware which eliminates the 20 min. stop/save/continue function, the file IS saved properly when the battery dies!

<EDIT> This problem was resolved with the Release 2 firmware. Files are now saved when the battery dies. <EDIT>
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
If the car charger is in fact supplying 5V to pin 4, maybe that's the key to using an external lipo for longer duration? I wouldn't try it unless someone else confirms it, and won't be plugging my car charger into my camera until I know for sure that the red wire does in fact go to pin 4...
Who ever gets the new external battery charger with the AA cell in it might be able to confirm that. It operates in parallel with the internal battery, and both charges the internal battery and powers the camera when it's toggled on (according to My Camera Guy). But checking the pinouts on the mini USB is next to impossible without a mating plug adaptor cable for the larger PC USB plug (or unterminated wires) which can easily be checked for voltage and continuity).
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Yabba,

Bummer. I have opened up and adjusted three cameras and nothing bricked yet. I must be expelling plenty of hot humid air when I do it or simply lucky.

Bill
It's so doggone dry around here I can't even walk to the bathroom without practically electrocuting myself

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:27 PM
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But checking the pinouts on the mini USB is next to impossible without a mating plug adaptor cable for the larger PC USB plug (or unterminated wires) which can easily be checked for voltage and continuity).
That's what I'm finding out

Yabba
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:45 PM
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Yes, those pins are tiny! I measured mine with some small probes and steady hands... Clamping the plug in a small vise was the only way to do it.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 09:45 PM
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Car Charger Noise

I wanted to mention that during my driving recording test with my car charger tonight, I got that spitting static that has been heard in other posted car videos. So, I think it is probably normal, and probably induced by the cars ignition system (theory only for lack of any better guesses). I plan to do some more tests in my car, both with and without the car charger cord powering the camera. Then I'll have better info. If anyone else has experience with this, please post your findings so we have a broader base of data. I'll post a short clip with this noise and edit this with a link shortly so you can see what I'm talking about.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Yes, those pins are tiny! I measured mine with some small probes and steady hands... Clamping the plug in a small vise was the only way to do it.
I have been trying using test leads with some straight pins.

Is the outer case neg ? And how do you orient the plug? Looking at it with the wider part to the bottom do the pins read left to right (1 - 5)?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:08 PM
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Big Bummer. Sorry to read about losing you plane with a new camera. What's the story?

Bill
Have you heard of the Bermuda triangle? Apparently, it reaches into Ohio.
I temporarily blinded myself by flying directly in front of a huge bright spot in the sky. When I regained my eyesight, the sky was empty. My guess is that it went into the wooded area behind me while I was trying to steer it away from the sun in front of me. Either that, or the sun melted my foam plane and I couldn't see the other parts fall from the sky.

I have ordered three more cams and an auto-darkening welding helmet.

Since I have no problem just tossing money into the air, I have decided to find out just how trustworthy Tom's "camera guy" really is. I have ordered directly from him in order to get a small discount. Let's see what happens.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I wanted to mention that during my driving recording test with my car charger tonight, I got that spitting static that has been heard in toher posted car videos. So, I think it is probably normal, and probably induced by the cars ignition system (theory only for lack of any better guesses). I plan to do some more tests in my car, both with and without the car charger cord powering the camera. Then I'll have better info. If anyone else has experience with this, please post your findings. so we have a broader base of data.
Did you try it in the car with the ignition off?
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
I have been trying using test leads with some straight pins.

Is the outer case neg ? And how do you orient the plug? Looking at it with the wider part to the bottom do the pins read left to right (1 - 5)?
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Did you try it in the car with the ignition off?
Very briefly, but i was also testing the video record buttons at the same time, so didn't get a good sample. I'll test again tomorrow.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Very briefly, but i was also testing the video record buttons at the same time, so didn't get a good sample. I'll test again tomorrow.
That would probably identify the source of the interference. I would assume the camera doesn't come with much RFI suppression circuitry.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
I just got +5.36v on pin 4 !!! On a free Harbor Freight VOM so the thing probably isn't the most accurate in the world but I wasn't about to use my GOOD VOM

Pin 5 is Neg as you stated. I got nothing on Pin 1 so I carefully checked pin 4and 5 and came up with the reading.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:06 PM
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So my theory was right... (more importantly I soldered the wire back to the right pin... lol)

Maybe they're using the normally empty pin to power the camera and still allow it to function as if USB isn't connected. Might be worth looking into, but I won't be the guinea pig... I don't really need external power, and only have one camera, and like it...

Thanks for confirming that!
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Looking into the connector with the wire going away from you, and with the wide part on the bottom, the pins are 1-2-3-4-5 left to right, and the outer shell isn't connected to anything! The last pin on the right should be ground, you can check that one without opening the charger up. It should trace through to the cigarette lighter plug, on one of the two metal tabs on the side. Only one is connected though, the other is just there as a spring to hold it tight I guess.

There should be that one ground pin, then one other pin will have 5V one it, it should be either pin 1 on the left, or pin 4 next to the ground pin. The other pins are not connected so you can't short them. Just be careful not to short pins 4 and 5 if those are in fact the two "live" pins. There's no telling what will blow...

I would check between pins one and 5 and see if it has 5V first, if not, carefully try pins 4 and 5!
I'll place my bet on pin #4 having the +5V from the HD car charger. Since pin #1 is standard +5V and pin#5 is standard ground, those would be used by standard PC and charger USB plugs to normally charge the camera, with the camera's additional circuitry to permit charging AND going into video recording mode being reserved for pin #4. The camera's circuit board picture shows that all 5 pins are soldered to active circuit traces, so all 5 must be used for something. Since Pin #4 is either standard open or standard ground, a normal USB charger plug would not likely do anything even if pin #4 were grounded. But if +5V were there, as it would be only from the car charger, with appropriate circuitry in the camera this would be the trigger to both charge and allow the camera to record. I don't see any other possible way for everything to work the way it does.

<EDIT> sheesh... you guys should be sound asleep by now! You proved my hunch right before I finished the picture and got it posted! <EDIT>
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:05 AM
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This cam needs a larger objective lens. would be great to see a DIY large objective with wider aov. Thanks for all your work on this.

Cool lil cam either way.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
That would probably identify the source of the interference. I would assume the camera doesn't come with much RFI suppression circuitry.
I also got some strange pulsing static on my very first videos I posted when near my kitchen, both just outside the back door and further down the first floor hall towards my den. There are wireless router and digital phone base units nearby, and the pulses went away as I got further away out the front door and upstairs. So my guess was RFI causing those pulses as well.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Kailex View Post
This cam needs a larger objective lens. would be great to see a DIY large objective with wider aov. Thanks for all your work on this.

Cool lil cam either way.
Slightly wider focused image to cover a bit further beyond the edges of the CMOS would certainly help eliminate the vignetting!
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 02:15 AM
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Slightly wider focused image to cover a bit further beyond the edges of the CMOS would certainly help eliminate the vignetting!
Yes larger objective lens to cover the cmos. That would be a 2 for 1 upgrade gaining more aov being a larger objective. Ide keep the same aspect ratio as the cmos for lowest distortion.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:14 AM
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strange audio interference

I get a click every second in the audio with the sd#8 on my 95 tahoe dash. I haven't received my #11 yet .I always thought it was the camera, I now know it is interference. Thanks again guys keep up the good work.

Would be nice to get our user input to the manufacture.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:45 AM
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If someone figures out a better lens to use, I'd be very interested! Does anyone know what thread the lens is?

You could always adapt it to a standard M12 threaded lens holder, but then the lens would be quite a bit larger than the sensor... lol I'm sure there's some options out there, just need to know what thread to look for. I see plenty for M5, M6, M8, etc.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 05:04 AM
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What's the weight of the #11, with and without battery (and case), if someone has this info? I would like to install this into HZ Champ, and need to keep the weight down to a minimum - planning to take the power from the flight battery (shouldn't affect the flight times much, I assume), and probably go for a permanent installation.

Any suggestions for a case - shrinkwrap? Little bit terrified to open the box and possibly bricking it in the process, but just don't see it feasible to use it as is. Mine is still on its way.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:10 AM
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Hey Guys,

I have 4 #11's on the way. Anyone have a polarizing filter to try on the front of a #11?

If I'm following this thread correctly the #11 has a wider angle lens than the #3. For trying to capture air to air shots is the #11 lens whats needed or do you think there is a need to try a wide angle phone cam lens on it?

Thanks for all the great info.

Joe
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
If someone figures out a better lens to use, I'd be very interested! Does anyone know what thread the lens is?

You could always adapt it to a standard M12 threaded lens holder, but then the lens would be quite a bit larger than the sensor... lol I'm sure there's some options out there, just need to know what thread to look for. I see plenty for M5, M6, M8, etc.
Tom had approximately measured the lense barrel size to be around 6mm. When I get mine, I will find out the exact thread size. The problem with adapting it to a larger thread, like M12 (standard for many CCD lenses) is that you need to remove the stock threads so the M12 lense can get close enough to the sensor. I'm going to play with mine when I get it and see what I can come up with. I will post pictures.

I really don't care if I destroy it now because I just ordered a GoPro Hero HD

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by feath3r View Post
What's the weight of the #11, with and without battery (and case), if someone has this info? I would like to install this into HZ Champ, and need to keep the weight down to a minimum - planning to take the power from the flight battery (shouldn't affect the flight times much, I assume), and probably go for a permanent installation.

Any suggestions for a case - shrinkwrap? Little bit terrified to open the box and possibly bricking it in the process, but just don't see it feasible to use it as is. Mine is still on its way.
It's too early to go rummaning around in my COLD garage to get to my scale but several people have been flying the #3's on the HZ Champ without any problems at all. All videos were stock cameras with no modification or removal of the case or battery.

Yabba

Here's a link to a recent video from a HZ Champ

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=7100
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 09:58 AM
Just thumbing through...
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Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
. Anyone have a polarizing filter to try on the front of a #11?
I sometimes use a jelly polarizer on #3. Should work the same on #11

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3112
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 10:52 AM
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The #3 weighs 16g with case and battery. I don't know how that compares to the HD version.

TT
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 11:30 AM
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The #3 weighs 16g with case and battery. I don't know how that compares to the HD version.

TT
Brrrr, I finally went out to the garage and got my scale.

The #11 808HD weighs 15g on my scale without the keychain part and with a 1 inch piece of hook side velcro

So they probably weigh the same (3 and 11) just minor variation due to different scales and the new Astrological Chart. I went from being an Aries to being a fish !!! )

Yabba
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 11:32 AM
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I really don't care if I destroy it now because I just ordered a GoPro Hero HD

Doug
I'm jealous !! Let's flash the firmware on the GoPro when you get it and then re-focus it

Yabba
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by djdavid60 View Post
I really don't care if I destroy it now because I just ordered a GoPro Hero HD

Doug
Hi Doug -- the GoPro Hero makes excellent vid, but at 179g (with battery and case) it's awful heavy. If you're planning onboard video, what kind of plane will you mount it on?

Dave
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dghutt View Post
Hi Doug -- the GoPro Hero makes excellent vid, but at 179g (with battery and case) it's awful heavy. If you're planning onboard video, what kind of plane will you mount it on?

Dave
I'm mounting it on my T-Wii-Copter (attached). Also am planning on an FPV plane, but haven't decided on which one yet. Skywalker is the front runner right now.

I still plan on using the keychain cam in my smaller planes. So I should still be careful with it when it arrives. But I am going to see if I can mod it with a good lense

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Just ordered mine from internet-shop 365!

What memory cards are people using?
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 01:01 PM
If it flies, I can crash it!
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Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Just ordered mine from internet-shop 365!

What memory cards are people using?
I'll be using an 8GB Class 6 that I use in my old #3 cam. I'll edit my post laster with the brand name if you want. It's been a great card.

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 01:19 PM
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. . . just minor variation due to different scales and the new Astrological Chart. I went from being an Aries to being a fish !!! )
So did I, although I really wanted the new sign, Ophiuchus, 'cause it sounds cool and mysterious.

TT
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavid60 View Post
I'll be using an 8GB Class 6 that I use in my old #3 cam. I'll edit my post laster with the brand name if you want. It's been a great card.

Doug
Thanks, This is the card i'm looking at Samsung MB-MP8GEU 8GB Micro SDHC PLUS Class 6 Extreme Speed Memory Card.

Does this sound ok?
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Naperville, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Thanks, This is the card i'm looking at Samsung MB-MP8GEU 8GB Micro SDHC PLUS Class 6 Extreme Speed Memory Card.

Does this sound ok?
I would let someone else chime in who has their 808HD camera in hand. Mine is in transit on a rickshaw somewhere in China right now. My only concern would be that 8GB could get used up pretty quick with HD video. It was plenty on the old #3 camera.

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:22 PM
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Naperville, IL
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
I'm jealous !! Let's flash the firmware on the GoPro when you get it and then re-focus it

Yabba
HAHAHA!!! Yabba. I have a feeling the focus will be fine on the GoPro. Depending on how long the camera has been sitting in the warehouse, I might actually have to flash it to the latest version

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
I'm jealous !! Let's flash the firmware on the GoPro when you get it and then re-focus it

Yabba
The lens focus is good, but it DOES need a different lens for AV video. Great picture quality, but I can't stand the way that fisheye lens distorts the horizon... very distracting and unnatural to me. Put a lens on it with less distortion, and it's golden (but still pricey!)
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Just ordered mine from internet-shop 365!

What memory cards are people using?
Transcend Class 6, any size. 4GB is good for about 1-1/4 hours of video with my camera, which records at about 7000 kbps average. For those whose HD key cam records at 10000 kbps average for some reason, slightly under 1 hour.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 03:42 PM
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[QUOTE=Tom Frank;17097195]
Quote:
Originally Posted by clx1 View Post
...
I have also asked My Camera Guy about the two different battery wire termination schemes, and why the two different methods. It may be something simple, like one way is easier or faster to do without risking accidentally shorting the battery wires during soldering (mine are very close together and could be easily bridged with solder if not careful)! If you look closely, both schemes terminate the wires in about the same location, just on opposite sides of the circuit board, and those points may have continuity through the board.
Here's an update on this battery wire termination question. I was close... it's really a simple explanation... some batteries came with shorter wires on them, so they apparently adapted to the problem until they could correct it, with no difference in performance. Here's the email exchange with My Camera Guy:
================================================== =====================
[I]A new question has come up in my thread about the battery wire connections to the circuit board. A number of us have opened our cameras to fine tune the lens focus, and we notice two different ways of connecting the battery wires to the circuit board. Mine has them both soldered side by side next to the lens and USB plug. Others have the red wire going through a hole in the circuit board soldered to a component on the opposite side near the large RAM chip, with the black wire soldered to one leg on the reset switch.

Can you tell us why the difference?
================================================== ========================
Dear friend,
thanks for your reply, i would like to tell you that do not worry about it, the function will not impact, as the wire have not enough longer to connect the circuit. so through the hole soldered on the opposite side near the large RAM chip, thanks for your reply.
hope you do not worry about it.
May you a wonderful day
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 14, 2011 at 03:48 PM.
Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Naperville, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The lens focus is good, but it DOES need a different lens for AV video. Great picture quality, but I can't stand the way that fisheye lens distorts the horizon... very distracting and unnatural to me. Put a lens on it with less distortion, and it's golden (but still pricey!)
Yes, that fisheye is a little disturbing at times. Looks like you are in orbit

But if you shoot in 1080, the FOV goes from 170 degrees down to 127 and the effect is almost completely gone.

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Transcend Class 6, any size. 4GB is good for about 1-1/4 hours of video with my camera, which records at about 7000 kbps average. For those whose HD key cam records at 10000 kbps average for some reason, slightly under 1 hour.
The maximum battery duration on the cam yields two files - one just under 1600MB (!) and another just under 1100MB. Time duration is 20 minutes on the nose for the first one and about 15 minutes for the second and last one. So the total battery-limited duration is about 35 minutes - as least for me.

The scene I tested this on was mostly static so the H.264 codec should have yielded smaller files, like Tom's 7000kbps which would figure to be about 1025MB, but no. However, I do notice darker scenes yield smaller files. Therefore, even at a much higher recording bitrate I've never had to use a larger card than 4GB. And the 4GB card I use is only Class 2. I tried a 16GB Class 10 card in it and the difference in scenes with motion under even very marginal lighting conditions cannot be easily detected.

FWIW.

clx1
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:39 PM
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United States, CA, Redwood City
Joined Oct 2001
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I bought my HD Keychain from internetpro365. It came without memory. So I used the SanDisk2GB that came with my standard definition Keychain. But I don't get any pictures or vdeos.
1. Charges OK
2. Turns on OK
3. Flasses 3 time and turns dark for videos, stops with one more click.
4. Doesn't flash with a short pulse for pics.
5. Mount on PC, get DCIM/100Media but no contents
6. If I format the microdisc it erases the folders. After operating the camera DCIm/100Media are back but no contents.
7. Is the old memory card too slow? or???
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavid60 View Post
Yes, that fisheye is a little disturbing at times. Looks like you are in orbit

But if you shoot in 1080, the FOV goes from 170 degrees down to 127 and the effect is almost completely gone.

Doug
I had read that about the reduced AOV and distortion, but it seems all the posted vids I've looked at go for the wider AOV. Maybe you can post one here with the less distortion seeting?
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clx1 View Post
The maximum battery duration on the cam yields two files - one just under 1600MB (!) and another just under 1100MB. Time duration is 20 minutes on the nose for the first one and about 15 minutes for the second and last one. So the total battery-limited duration is about 35 minutes - as least for me.

The scene I tested this on was mostly static so the H.264 codec should have yields smaller files, like Tom's 7000kbps, but no. However, I do notice darker scenes yield smaller files. Therefore, I've never had to use a larger card than 4GB. And the 4GB card I use is only Class 2. I tried a 16GB Class 10 card in it and the difference in scenes with motion under even very marginal lighting conditions cannot be easily detected.

FWIW.

clx1
I've gotten more than two 20 min. clips on mine before the battery craps out. Both full clips were exactly 20 min. to the second. Battery capacity or charge state seems to vary on these little cams quite a bit. With the external battery now available, recording times can be very long (e.g. 5-6 hours).
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slacsteve View Post
I bought my HD Keychain from internetpro365. It came without memory. So I used the SanDisk2GB that came with my standard definition Keychain. But I don't get any pictures or vdeos.
1. Charges OK
2. Turns on OK
3. Flasses 3 time and turns dark for videos, stops with one more click.
4. Doesn't flash with a short pulse for pics.
5. Mount on PC, get DCIM/100Media but no contents
6. If I format the microdisc it erases the folders. After operating the camera DCIm/100Media are back but no contents.
7. Is the old memory card too slow? or???
VERY strange. Even a slow card should record SOME video/sound.

Can you copy files onto the card when the camera is connected as a flash drive on your PC?

If so, does the camera work in web cam mode on your PC?

If so, try a different memory card just to rule out a card problem.

Report back what you find.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 05:47 PM
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United States, CA, Redwood City
Joined Oct 2001
90 Posts
Memory problem ? part 2

I have ordered a class 6 micro sd card. I have only the one unknown speed card.

Yes indeed I can copy a word document on to the memory and lo and behold the next time I try to make a movie it works. Then if I remove the word document it doesn't work. So it's a small price to pay for getting it to work. But I now have videos.

Other anomalies (features?):

1. After turn on the shortest push of the small button I get three flashes and dark - movies mode. There is no opportunity to take jpgs which is supposed to be a short pulse as it goes immediately into movie mode.

2. I did manage to get a jpg by pushing the large button after turn on, got the flash. But would not go into movie mode until I turned it off and back on again.

3. It will only take one movie and then I terminate. After that it will not start another movie or jpg until after I turn it off with the big button.

4. After all that sort of success I erae everything - nothing works.

5. Put the word file back, took 3 movies in a row, but no jpgs.

I'll try the faster memory card next week and report.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 05:50 PM
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victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The lens focus is good, but it DOES need a different lens for AV video. Great picture quality, but I can't stand the way that fisheye lens distorts the horizon... very distracting and unnatural to me. Put a lens on it with less distortion, and it's golden (but still pricey!)
The ZxD is lighter and way cheaper (when on sale, which is quite often). It runs at 60FPS. Couple of frame grabs from today, flown on a 2m glider. I know this is OT, but I had really hoped the new keyfobs would use this technology
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:02 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The ZxD is lighter and way cheaper (when on sale, which is quite often). It runs at 60FPS. Couple of frame grabs from today, flown on a 2m glider. I know this is OT, but I had really hoped the new keyfobs would use this technology
I looked up ZxD and found this Kodak camera for $100 and 3.6 ounces without battery. Do you have link to the lighter ZxD you allude to in your post?

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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:11 PM
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United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slacsteve View Post
I have ordered a class 6 micro sd card. I have only the one unknown speed card.

Yes indeed I can copy a word document on to the memory and lo and behold the next time I try to make a movie it works. Then if I remove the word document it doesn't work. So it's a small price to pay for getting it to work. But I now have videos.

Other anomalies (features?):

1. After turn on the shortest push of the small button I get three flashes and dark - movies mode. There is no opportunity to take jpgs which is supposed to be a short pulse as it goes immediately into movie mode.

2. I did manage to get a jpg by pushing the large button after turn on, got the flash. But would not go into movie mode until I turned it off and back on again.

3. It will only take one movie and then I terminate. After that it will not start another movie or jpg until after I turn it off with the big button.

4. After all that sort of success I erae everything - nothing works.

5. Put the word file back, took 3 movies in a row, but no jpgs.

I'll try the faster memory card next week and report.
Sure sounds like something is up with the memory card! That's a strange one though...

For taking pictures and movies:

Quick press of the power button turns the camera on, and shortly after the LED lights it will blink once. It's in movie mode, this is default when it's powered up. A quick press of the small button will start recording a movie, the LED will flash a few times then go dark while it records. Quick press the small button again, and it stops recording and the LED comes on again. It's still in movie mode, and you should be able to record another movie. While it's in movie mode (and not recording), quick press the larger power button to switch to picture mode. It will blink the LED once to confirm that it changed modes. Now a quick press of the small button takes a picture, and the LED blinks once when it takes it. (I say blinks, it goes dark for about 1/2 a second) You can now quick press the large button to go back to movie mode, or hold down the large button until the LED switches off the turn the camera off.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:14 PM
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victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
I looked up ZxD and found this Kodak camera for $100 and 3.6 ounces without battery. Do you have link to the lighter ZxD you allude to in your post?
That's it! I was comparing with the weight quoted for the Gopro back here

I paid $69, less a $10 coupon.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:18 PM
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Detroit, MI
Joined Dec 2010
101 Posts
I have a POS Kingston 2GB and its work fine.....I plan on getting a higher class card but this one works for now
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:37 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Sure sounds like something is up with the memory card! That's a strange one though...

For taking pictures and movies:

Quick press of the power button turns the camera on, and shortly after the LED lights it will blink once. It's in movie mode, this is default when it's powered up. A quick press of the small button will start recording a movie, the LED will flash a few times then go dark while it records. Quick press the small button again, and it stops recording and the LED comes on again. It's still in movie mode, and you should be able to record another movie. While it's in movie mode (and not recording), quick press the larger power button to switch to picture mode. It will blink the LED once to confirm that it changed modes. Now a quick press of the small button takes a picture, and the LED blinks once when it takes it. (I say blinks, it goes dark for about 1/2 a second) You can now quick press the large button to go back to movie mode, or hold down the large button until the LED switches off the turn the camera off.
I really struggled with the right button dance for stills, too... took me a while to figure it out. I need to get some FAQ links to your web cam button dance tips, too.

Or, if you had the time, maybe you could gather your web cam procedure and this video/picutre procedure into one new post, and I could just link to the one page to clarify all this in one place?
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The ZxD is lighter and way cheaper (when on sale, which is quite often). It runs at 60FPS. Couple of frame grabs from today, flown on a 2m glider. I know this is OT, but I had really hoped the new keyfobs would use this technology
Yes, this camera and others do similar things, but they all have at least 5MP CMOS sensors, bigger batteries, and LCD screen, and many more oz. of weight and $$ more cost. Even stripping off the LCD, you can't fit what's left in a key fob size case or sell it for $40 or less. In short, there is no equal, ALL things considered, to the HD key cam (yet), which is the subject of this thread.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jan 14, 2011 at 07:02 PM.
Old Jan 14, 2011, 07:00 PM
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Naperville, IL
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I agree Tom. For $40 there is nothing that even comes close to what these cams can do.

BTW, I ordered mine from internet-shop365. How long on average does it take to get here from China from these guys?

Doug
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 07:25 PM
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KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,359 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I really struggled with the right button dance for stills, too... took me a while to figure it out. I need to get some FAQ links to your web cam button dance tips, too.

Or, if you had the time, maybe you could gather your web cam procedure and this video/picutre procedure into one new post, and I could just link to the one page to clarify all this in one place?
Sounds good to me! I can just edit the original post with the webcam instructions to add this, then you can just edit the title of the link on the front... Sound good?
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 07:33 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
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Palm Beach County, Fl.
Joined Aug 2008
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10 days or so.
Hi guys, Again when I let the cam continually run the file size get to a gig the starts another file, right? well when I try to open it I get, Error -2002: a bad public movie atom was found in the movie (PTDC0001.MOV), and the only way to open it I found was this Prism Video File Converter then it can be saved as a wav. Pretty cool little gismo! I even got it to do web cam the first time I tried! I got it mainly to use as a hat cam. The recorder does a pretty good job a catching moving objects and does well in a variety of lighting conditions as in shadow to bright area but needs good bright daylight for catching speed passes! Question, how do you ad the on and off file to the root drive, is it ok to ad it then turn off/on then delete file?
Tom
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 07:44 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
Sounds good to me! I can just edit the original post with the webcam instructions to add this, then you can just edit the title of the link on the front... Sound good?
Perfect... thanks for the help!
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 07:53 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
That's it! I was comparing with the weight quoted for the Gopro back here

I paid $69, less a $10 coupon.
Victapilot,

That Kodak ZxD camera takes great video and screen captures but there is no comparison between it and HD keycam if you want a lightweight and tiny video camera at a low price.

Bill
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Last edited by Prof100; Jan 14, 2011 at 09:11 PM.
Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:00 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,419 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
10 days or so.
Hi guys, Again when I let the cam continually run the file size get to a gig the starts another file, right? well when I try to open it I get, Error -2002: a bad public movie atom was found in the movie (PTDC0001.MOV), and the only way to open it I found was this Prism Video File Converter then it can be saved as a wav. Pretty cool little gismo! I even got it to do web cam the first time I tried! I got it mainly to use as a hat cam. The recorder does a pretty good job a catching moving objects and does well in a variety of lighting conditions as in shadow to bright area but needs good bright daylight for catching speed passes! Question, how do you ad the on and off file to the root drive, is it ok to ad it then turn off/on then delete file?
Tom
That wierd error has been reported before, but still don't know what causes it. Are you using a Quicktime player when this error comes up? That was the case before, which makes this even stranger since both the .MOV file format and Quicktime are Apple products. But the audio codec used by the camera is a wierd one in the Windows PC world. I wonder if it's also part of the Apple world, or part of the problem? Maybe the MAC guys can sort that out?

But you said you saved it as a .WAV file, which is audio only. Are you just trying to capture the audio for something like a Doppler Speed Analysis program. You might try the AviDemux editor, which I've been recommending to the Windows crowd for editing the .MOV files. It's also available for MAC and Linux boxes. I'd be interested in knowing if that makes the native files editable without the wierd "bad public movie atom" error, which sounds very radioactive to me!

Now to your Question: "how do you ad the on and off file to the root drive, is it ok to ad it then turn off/on then delete file?"

Are you referring to the date removal firmware patch? The procedure for that is linked in the FAQ page in post #3. To copy the file to the root directory, either copy/paste or drag/drop it into the folder that opens when you click on the camera's flash card icon. That's the same folder where you see the DCIM folder. The new firmware file goes along side the DCIM folder, NOT in it.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavid60 View Post
...
BTW, I ordered mine from internet-shop365. How long on average does it take to get here from China from these guys?

Doug
Depends a bit on where you live and which port of entry into the US the mail happens to be delivered. Living in Seattle area, I've had goods shipped via Hong Kong Post go to NY as the port of entry, then have to come back all the way to the West coast. Other times, it comes in through CA. Typically, I look for the stuff in about 7-9 days after tracking shows it being accepted by their local mail system. There can be delays there that can last over a week getting shipped out on occasion (mostly holiday times).
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:59 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yes, this camera and others do similar things, but they all have at least 5MP CMOS sensors, bigger batteries, and LCD screen, and many more oz. of weight and $$ more cost. Even stripping off the LCD, you can't fit what's left in a key fob size case or sell it for $40 or less. In short, there is no equal, ALL things considered, to the HD key cam (yet), which is the subject of this thread.
Yes, of course! Actually the ZxD has a 1.6MP sensor. I just like it, haven't had to focus it, there's no date, no vignetting, the horizon is flat (compared to GoPro), and so far I haven't bricked it.

Ok, I'll go away now!
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 09:06 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Car Charger Driving Noise Test

This is a portion of some car driving testing I did today. Considering what a lousy day it was for shooting video to begin with, and also with the camera pointing out through a wet wind shield, it looked to me that the focus was quite good across the entire width, even to the edges. I'll study that more on a bright sunny day.

I posted this clip to clearly show the "spitting static" noise the camera picks up when driving. You can hear the noise drop off to the point of being inaudible (at least to my admittedly poor high frequency hearing) when the car's engine drops to idle at the stop light. Then it starts up again and gets louder as I accelerate and turn the corner. So, I think it's safe to say now that the camera is picking up noise from the car's ignition system, and can be expected when recording while driving with the car charger powering the camera.

<EDIT UPDATE> Another user has reported (and I have confirmed) that static noise occurs on in-car records even without the car charging cable connected to the camera, so it appears the noise is true radio frequency interference from the car's ignition system being pick up by the camera's circuitry. No shielding methods to eliminate this have yet been reported. <EDIT UPDATE>

Here's the video clip:

HD Key Cam Car Charger Test (0 min 48 sec)
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 24, 2011 at 02:09 PM.
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