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Old Aug 29, 2011, 02:50 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakzie View Post
Any suggestions for a Blade CX2? I was using the supplied velcro but I think maybe Rubber bands would hold tighter? Here is video I just took with the supplied velcro. As you can see wavy city..
I haven't done helos but worked out some of the issues with a couple of fixed wing planes. Sometimes tighter clamping will help. I used Velcro with a small (1/8") bungy cord over that (passing through eyelets in the wing) and that kept the camera in position and held it against the wing more firmly.

If the vibration is in the mounting surface you may want to try a softer layer between the surface and the camera. Some of the 1/4" RC foam (Dubro product, white or black, used for wrapping receivers and stuff) might work. Put one or two layers between the camera and the frame and have the camera bound down lightly so the foam can absorb the vibration. I always have a string safety cord on my camera as a just in case precaution.

Jack
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 03:16 PM
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victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
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I have a couple of 450 helis and the best result usually with:

- Put the camera as close as possible to the CG. Same idea as for the gyro
- Alternatively, mount the camera on the battery (leave the canopy off) The battery is typically the highest mass component and can reduce the transmission of vibration to the cam. Might help to soft mount the battery.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 10:05 PM
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Hello all,

I've had my #11 for a couple of weeks now and wanted to pose a question to folks that have recently received their camera.

My up close focus seems excellent but far off objects like my plane and the trees I'm trying not to fly it into are not so well focused. I know the older 11's could be torn apart and the focus could be tweeked if one is very careful. Has anyone tried to adjust the focus on one of these current models?

Also any info on how long the battery will be serviceable in this litttle fella. Should you expect 6 months or less or hopefully more life. Should you leave it in a low state of charge or always top it off? Today I recorded for 35 minutes straight, is that about the max for a new healthy battery?
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Smudge View Post
Hello all,

I've had my #11 for a couple of weeks now and wanted to pose a question to folks that have recently received their camera.

My up close focus seems excellent but far off objects like my plane and the trees I'm trying not to fly it into are not so well focused. I know the older 11's could be torn apart and the focus could be tweeked if one is very careful. Has anyone tried to adjust the focus on one of these current models?

Yes, it's been tried and reported that the new cameras are using a very tough glue on the lens threads. Some have damaged the lens module trying to turn the lens to adjust the focus. Maybe a sample video clip posted so we can see the focus issue would help us note how far off it might be.

Also any info on how long the battery will be serviceable in this litttle fella. Should you expect 6 months or less or hopefully more life. Should you leave it in a low state of charge or always top it off? Today I recorded for 35 minutes straight, is that about the max for a new healthy battery?

Life span of a healthy battery depends largely on how many times you discharge/charge it, as well as the accuracy of the charging circuitry, which should charge initially at a constant current of no more than 1C rate (about .25 A for the small #11) for a low C-rated battery. Then the charge function should switch to a constant voltage when the battery voltage reaches it maximum (4.2 V). The current will then start to diminish to near zero as the battery finishes charging. That function is managed by a small IC on the camera circuit board. The amount of discharge also affects life span, but the camera will cease to record at a safe battery voltage. Once shut down the battery will continue to drain a small amount of power keeping the camera internal clock running. Ultimately, the battery small protection circuit board soldered to its tabs manages the discharge and (hopefully) cuts off all battery power to the camera at a safe level before battery damage can occur (about 3V or so). Finally some batteries are poorly constructed internally or have some physical damage which can affect their life span, too. Some have failed within the first month or two. ^ months life span seems to be a pretty good number.

About 40 minutes max. recording time is normal... maybe a bit less.

Lipos are best stored when charged to about 1/2 their capacity or slightly above. The battery resting voltage will be about 3.6 to 3.7 V there.
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 12:04 AM
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Well I successfully got the vibration to leave by balancing the blades and putting rubber bands around the camera and the nose of the heli. Unfortutely I got anxious to test it and it was windy and I broke a lower blade AND the lower rotor head.... UGH.. However when viewing the video back it removed the wavs... too bad the heli won't fly again until I get the new rotor head... WAH!
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
- Alternatively, mount the camera on the battery (leave the canopy off) The battery is typically the highest mass component and can reduce the transmission of vibration to the cam. Might help to soft mount the battery.
I do the same thing. i've flown my old #3 and my #11 on my Trex600 and i get very little distortion due to using some of the wide rubber bands from Staple / Wal*Mart/Office supply etc. and making sure the camera is 'hard mounted' to the battery. with the TRex600 each battery weighs in at 797g so i have a rather large mass to work with.

cheers,
Brian
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Smudge View Post
My up close focus seems excellent but far off objects like my plane and the trees I'm trying not to fly it into are not so well focused. I know the older 11's could be torn apart and the focus could be tweeked if one is very careful. Has anyone tried to adjust the focus on one of these current models?
I did search some time ago for a negative diopter lens to add on and correct this. We discussed a bit on the #3 thread. The ones I found (scientific suppliers) were too expensive, so I considered using a very low power corrective lens from a pair of glasses but everything I had was too strong.

Maybe someone can find something simple and cheap?
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 08:18 AM
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Keychain Protective Casing (Half-Case)

I few posts back I promised that I would post a link which describes how to make a simple, yet very effective, protective case for the Keychain. You'll need a pointed instrument (ball-point pen) to be able to press the buttons. I've been looking for something like this for a long time, and this simple design is perfect for my purposes. However, since the case is made of copper, it is quite heavy - about 8g.
The case can also be used as a protective case if you carry your camera in your pockets.
Another advantage is the flat surface which makes attaching the camera much easier - at least for me.

Just so you know what the finished case looks like, here's a picture




You'll need a very hot soldering iron with a wide tip (about 3-4mm) and a piece of copper or possibly tin (from a tin can) no more than 0.3mm thick.
If the metal is thicker, it will not be possible to form the shape around the keychain. It's important the the metal is bright and shiny and clean, otherwise you won't be able to make a solder joint.
The solder should make a clean run - but all this is described in the article found here.

No special skills are needed, although a bit of soldering experience can't be bad. The only difficulty could be finding the thin copper sheet, but I think a tin sheet from a can of whatever should also work and it's free!
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 03:30 PM
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Flying above my neighborhood with my Floater Jet (3 min 0 sec)

Aerial before hurricane Irene (2 min 29 sec)

Floater Jet with keychain cam #11 (5 min 13 sec)
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Nice catches!
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 05:53 PM
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P.S. What model is that plane?
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakzie View Post
Any suggestions for a Blade CX2? I was using the supplied velcro but I think maybe Rubber bands would hold tighter? Here is video I just took with the supplied velcro. As you can see wavy city..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4mOSsUf7xo
Hi there - I've been working with an Exceed RC's Blazing Star co-axial, which is the same as a Walkera HM 53-1. It has a 17 1/2" dia. rotor where yours specs at 13.6" so they're about the same size. I, too, have been struggling with vibration - I've heard it called 'jello video'. I think co-axis may be worse than single rotor - because one rotor is on a long shaft. One big improvement was getting the upper rotor control link to the flybar adjusted so blades are working equally. Also mounting cam underneath (by battery as previously suggested) helped noticeably. Bubble pack (small bubbles) much worse. Best of luck.
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 06:46 PM
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Thanks I got lucky haha! That is the Floater jet / Clouds fly
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 08:47 PM
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Isoprop, WOW, that's just great work :-) LOVE IT!!!
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 11:40 PM
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So I took my first video with my camera tonight,

Its kinda hard to see things. do most people point their cameras towards the ground for points of referances? I had mine pointing forward.
kinetic 800 8/29/11 wing video (9 min 29 sec)
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 12:12 AM
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
So I took my first video with my camera tonight,

Its kinda hard to see things. do most people point their cameras towards the ground for points of referances? I had mine pointing forward.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3hS8TfWArA
A little down is better.

Your clip was shot at dusk, in low light. That's why things are blurry. In full sunlight your clips will look better. Less jerking around is also better.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
So I took my first video with my camera tonight,

Its kinda hard to see things. do most people point their cameras towards the ground for points of referances? I had mine pointing forward.
About 15 deg. down works very well... keeps a little of the sky and horizon in the scene most of the time, with more of the ground. BUT, this thread is dedicated for the #11HD keychain camera, so your video is a bit off topic here. Maybe you should post in the "MEGA key chain camera" thread.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 10:34 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
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Does anybody know if there is any sound in webcam mode?
I have video, but no sound......
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
Does anybody know if there is any sound in webcam mode?
I have video, but no sound......
I can get sound capture using the Vdub webcam mode, but audio must be toggled on. So, it might be the capture program and/or settings that is preventing you from getting audio.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 03:16 AM
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Hi
I have a problem.
I change batterie in my #11, but I chance revers pole and I
start charge. When I see that pole are revers a change this, but
now charge in camera doesn't work.
When I charge batterie in another camera (#7), and put to #11,
camera work poprertly, but don't wont charge.

Can I fix this?
Which part I can change ?

I have two brokem camera #3, maybe I soldering some part from
broken camera to #11, to fix this.

Somebody help me ?
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 04:10 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I can get sound capture using the Vdub webcam mode, but audio must be toggled on. So, it might be the capture program and/or settings that is preventing you from getting audio.
Thank for the suggestion, Frank. I have downloaded 3 different programs and still no sound. I think it has something to do with my microphone settings.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 09:22 AM
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Hi everyone!

After two weeks of working fine, my Jumbo#11 only produces kind of scrambled videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lPIKyCV7SY

Accompanying this problem is some "weird" behaviour: It doesn't record, or is unresponsive until I make a reset.

Any idea how I can cure this thing would be highly appreciated, because it would save me from sending it back. Thank you very much!
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 10:27 AM
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I have not idea what went wrong with your cam Cool lens adapter, I like it!
Here is my last video taken with #11, attention female pilot!
FPV School 1 (11 min 16 sec)
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 12:53 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
Hi
I have a problem.
I change batterie in my #11, but I chance revers pole and I
start charge. When I see that pole are revers a change this, but
now charge in camera doesn't work.
When I charge batterie in another camera (#7), and put to #11,
camera work poprertly, but don't wont charge.

Can I fix this?
Which part I can change ?

I have two brokem camera #3, maybe I soldering some part from
broken camera to #11, to fix this.

Somebody help me ?
The #11 has a dedicated lipo charging IC on the circuit board (see pic in post #2). The #3 does not have this chip, so it won't help. But the failed component could be a totally different part. Can you see any burned/charred look on any of the parts? If not, I don't know of a way to find the failed component.

Maybe one of the circuit design gurus who visit this thread can give better guidance.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosquitomato View Post
Hi everyone!

After two weeks of working fine, my Jumbo#11 only produces kind of scrambled videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lPIKyCV7SY

Accompanying this problem is some "weird" behaviour: It doesn't record, or is unresponsive until I make a reset.

Any idea how I can cure this thing would be highly appreciated, because it would save me from sending it back. Thank you very much!
It looks to me like a hardware problem with either the CMOS or video processor IC. You could flash in one of the Rel2 firmwares to see if that changes anything, but I doubt it will.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Can you see any burned/charred look on any of the parts? If not, I don't know of a way to find the failed component.

Maybe one of the circuit design gurus who visit this thread can give better guidance.
I have #11 v3.
I look the circuit board , but don't see any " burned/charred parts" everyfing looks fine.

I hope that som "guru" see this post

Thanks for answer Tom.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 01:19 PM
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Tushev:
I'm not sure if it's YouTube being dumb with the video compression, or if your camera is hunting for a good frame rate. it seems to have low FPS and be Jerky shortly after the 2:00min mark of your video. Does this same low framerate appear on the original file?

thanks,
Brian
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 01:25 PM
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Looks fine on my PC but I noticed some jurkynes when I edit it in Sony Vegas. By the way my card is nothing special 2C
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooSLow2Care View Post
Tushev:
I'm not sure if it's YouTube being dumb with the video compression, or if your camera is hunting for a good frame rate. it seems to have low FPS and be Jerky shortly after the 2:00min mark of your video. Does this same low framerate appear on the original file?

thanks,
Brian
Hmmm.... it plays back smoothly both in the embedded Flash player in the post and on the YouTube site when I view it!
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I have #11 v3.

I hope that som "guru" see this post

Thanks for answer Tom.
Tom is the only guru
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I have #11 v3.
I look the circuit board , but don't see any " burned/charred parts" everyfing looks fine.
Unfortunately... I connect battery from nokia (BL-4C), and I spot that camera record only few secon of movie and stop (like battery is discharge, but is full, with another battery is that same). I see, that problam is serius). Somthing terminate circut after a few seconds.
Next that I observe :the sound in video are noise (I have like that when battery was discharge).
You have any idea what is wrong?
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 07:29 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
Unfortunately... I connect battery from nokia (BL-4C), and I spot that camera record only few secon of movie and stop (like battery is discharge, but is full, with another battery is that same). I see, that problam is serius). Somthing terminate circut after a few seconds.
Next that I observe :the sound in video are noise (I have like that when battery was discharge).
You have any idea what is wrong?
Your substituted battery may not be able to deliver the current the camera requires while maintaining it's voltage, even though it appears to be fully charged. This is common with lipo cells in our flight batteries when they age or deteriorate.
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 08:59 PM
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Well I got my Blade CX2 fixed up and took some video tonight. A little vibration still so I'm going to rubber band it a second time next flight.


Blade CX2 with 808 #11 HD keychain cam Test 1 (1 min 17 sec)


Blade CX2 with 808 #11 HD keychain cam Test 2 (1 min 22 sec)
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 11:13 PM
SUCK LESS
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Having some fun with my #11 and my Mini Titan helicopter this week at work (during lunch break, of course). Having great results powering the camera from one of the flight battery cells. Decided to blow the dust off of DeShaker as I haven't used it pretty much all summer ...

-John
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 11:14 PM
eat, sleep, FLY FLY FLY
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Charlottesville, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakzie View Post
Well I got my Blade CX2 fixed up and took some video tonight. A little vibration still so I'm going to rubber band it a second time next flight.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7MWOdqfWCU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdGDdWPseWU
smooth flyin, nice
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Old Sep 01, 2011, 11:19 PM
eat, sleep, FLY FLY FLY
Mr.frankenjet's Avatar
Charlottesville, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot View Post
Having some fun with my #11 and my Mini Titan helicopter this week at work (during lunch break, of course). Having great results powering the camera from one of the flight battery cells. Decided to blow the dust off of DeShaker as I haven't used it pretty much all summer ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYJ33Vw7ReY

-John
dammm
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 12:38 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
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This came out well, even though most is in low light at sunset.
Turtles Bar (6 min 33 sec)
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Your substituted battery may not be able to deliver the current the camera requires while maintaining it's voltage, even though it appears to be fully charged. This is common with lipo cells in our flight batteries when they age or deteriorate.

Tom, What You advise ? Is any hope?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
Tom, What You advise ? Is any hope?
Just something else to try before Tom replies:
Solder in a charged battery from your #3 and make sure that the polarity is correct! Connect the "special" cable which is plugged into a charger or directly into your PC (do not use a hub). If possible, make 100% sure that you have +5V on pin #4 and pin #5 is minus (-) -> see FAQ on post #3.
Can you record for a long time?

If not, then I don't think it is easily possible to repair your #11. Reversed polarity is evil

However, the fact that you can record a few seconds indicates to me that the ICs have not been destroyed by the reversed polarity, and everything seems to indicate a simple battery connection. So there still may be hope...

If it is not a battery issue, then I really don't know what else it could be.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 07:25 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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I tried out my cam yesterday so here it is:

Phoenix 2000 (4 min 38 sec)
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 08:26 AM
AP-stick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
I tried out my cam yesterday so here it is:
really fun to feel the flight with plane in view
it glide for ever !

here is my CL 415 flown yesterday with keychain on the rudder top :
(borrow the idea from Saucisse )

Bombardier CL 415 (4 min 4 sec)
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 09:04 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
really fun to feel the flight with plane in view
it glide for ever !

here is my CL 415 flown yesterday with keychain on the rudder top :
(borrow the idea from Saucisse )

http://vimeo.com/28488694
Great vid! I like that waterplane...
Is that the .72 wide angle you are using?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 09:19 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1U2rHpvmqw

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Old Sep 02, 2011, 09:31 AM
AP-stick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
Great vid! I like that waterplane...
Is that the .72 wide angle you are using?
thanks , i use the 0.67 lense

little tail heavy so take off & landing where not good i have to move
my battery...

NOTE : the modified airplane sound is from a real CL415 flight
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
Great vid! I like that waterplane...
Is that the .72 wide angle you are using?
Where you see 0.72 wide angle?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 10:55 AM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
Tom, What You advise ? Is any hope?
Try Isoprop's suggestion to rule out a weak battery as the cause.

I have a #11 camera that was sent to me by another user that also recorded fine for a short period (less than one minute). The video could be retrieved if the recording was stopped manually during that time period. But if left recording for a longer period, the recording would stop and nothing was recorded. I tried using an external power source to rule out the battery as the cause, but it did not help. On that one, it seemed to me to be related to the camera internal temperature... as the components heated up during recording, a fault occurred somewhere in the circuitry to stop the recording. I could not find any cracked or cold soldering on any of the circuit board pads, so possibly an intermittant junction in one of the components that opened up as the temperature rose.

I don't have any other suggestions. And since the problem with yours appears to have been cause by your reversed battery connection, it would not qualify for a warranty replacement by the vendor. Sorry!
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Just something else to try before Tom replies:
Solder in a charged battery from your #3 and make sure that the polarity is correct! Connect the "special" cable which is plugged into a charger or directly into your PC (do not use a hub). If possible, make 100% sure that you have +5V on pin #4 and pin #5 is minus (-) -> see FAQ on post #3.
Can you record for a long time?

If not, then I don't think it is easily possible to repair your #11. Reversed polarity is evil

However, the fact that you can record a few seconds indicates to me that the ICs have not been destroyed by the reversed polarity, and everything seems to indicate a simple battery connection. So there still may be hope...

If it is not a battery issue, then I really don't know what else it could be.
I plug charger while record. The recor was longer, but sound and picture was noise (like battery is discharge). Red LED blinked
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I plug charger while record. The recor was longer, but sound and picture was noise (like battery is discharge). Red LED blinked
Did you have a different, known good single cell lipo battery soldered to the camera when you did this? It sounds like the camera starts to charge, then stops charging with battery having proper fully charged voltage, but then the battery can't supply the current while holding voltage, so the charge circuit kicks in again, repeating the process (resulting in red LED blinking) while the nominal voltage is actually low the entire time (resulting in the audio/video noise artifact).

You may still have a functional camera... just lacking a battery that can hold a charge.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I plug charger while record. The recor was longer, but sound and picture was noise (like battery is discharge). Red LED blinked
To avoid all confusion: Are you using the "special" cable, NOT a standard USB cable?

<Edit>Another test which I always perform on failing devices (excellent FREE tip for recovering data from a failed hard disk BTW!) is the freezer trick.
In your case do this: Put the camera (with internal battery connected) in the freezer for about one minute. Then, quickly connect the "special" cable with an external battery if possible or failing that, connected to an external charger etc. Put the camera with the cable connected in the freezer (-18°C) again and turn on the camera and start recording. Immediately close the freezer door. Check back in about 5 minutes, no longer or you'll freeze the poor camera! This trick won't repair your camera, buit it may tell you if you've got an overheating problem. With the hard disk, you have enough time to copy a few files.</Edit>
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Last edited by Isoprop; Sep 02, 2011 at 12:43 PM.
Old Sep 02, 2011, 12:31 PM
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New Cam on friends planes

Discus Glider with on-board camera (8 min 34 sec)


On-board R/C Patriot at 130 MPH (3 min 50 sec)
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
To avoid all confusion: Are you using the "special" cable, NOT a standard USB cable?

<Edit>Another test which I always perform on failing devices (excellent FREE tip for recovering data from a failed hard disk BTW!) is the freezer trick.
In your case do this: Put the camera (with internal battery connected) in the freezer for about one minute. Then, quickly connect the "special" cable with an external battery if possible or failing that, connected to an external charger etc. Put the camera with the cable connected in the freezer (-18°C) again and turn on the camera and start recording. Immediately close the freezer door. Check back in about 5 minutes, no longer or you'll freeze the poor camera! This trick won't repair your camera, buit it may tell you if you've got an overheating problem. With the hard disk, you have enough time to copy a few files.</Edit>

I use cabel deliver with camera.
I charged battery to full (nokia battery BL-4C), i do that same with original battery 250mAh. On original battery no changes (noise sound and picture). On nokia battery picure are good (no noise), sound too is good but after about 60 second recordinc sound are noise (picture still good). I stop recording and start on few min. (picutr good, after 60 sec. sound nois like battery is discharge.)

Now I trial with freez.

In freez camera no work. Power on , Led light yelow, I push button record, and nothing..., yelow Led light. Work only power button.
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Last edited by speedwolf1; Sep 02, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
Old Sep 02, 2011, 04:44 PM
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
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Sounds like you may have screwed up the original battery and nokia battery is discharging fast. I have ever tried external 5v battery pack directly connected to a #8 key camera and md80 cam, both with their original battery taken out. They were able to function normally. However, I have not tried on #11. You can attempt to
1. measure the voltage of both nokia and original battery to check if they are about 4.2v when fully charged. Else you may have weak/faulty batteries especially 3.7v and below.
2. Or you can connect 5v batteries pack directly to the internal printed circuit board +/- terminal as a last resort. You can also used 3 AA alkaline batt in series instead of 5v batt pack.
Do take note of your battery connection to the pcb terminal. If you just twist the loose wire to join for testing, the poor contact may lead to noise/leakage.

If your cam able to record in perfect condition in 60sec, I do not think it is spoilt but unless internal RAM corrupted.


Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I use cabel deliver with camera.
I charged battery to full (nokia battery BL-4C), i do that same with original battery 250mAh. On original battery no changes (noise sound and picture). On nokia battery picure are good (no noise), sound too is good but after about 60 second recordinc sound are noise (picture still good). I stop recording and start on few min. (picutr good, after 60 sec. sound nois like battery is discharge.)

Now I trial with freez.
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Last edited by starhubber; Sep 02, 2011 at 04:54 PM. Reason: missing keyword
Old Sep 02, 2011, 07:10 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I use cabel deliver with camera.
I charged battery to full (nokia battery BL-4C), i do that same with original battery 250mAh. On original battery no changes (noise sound and picture). On nokia battery picure are good (no noise), sound too is good but after about 60 second recordinc sound are noise (picture still good). I stop recording and start on few min. (picutr good, after 60 sec. sound nois like battery is discharge.)

Now I trial with freez.

In freez camera no work. Power on , Led light yelow, I push button record, and nothing..., yelow Led light. Work only power button.
Were you using external power when cold? If not, a lipo battery performance decreases rapidly as the temperature drops near freezing. A weak battery will be much weaker in delivering current when it is cold, even though resting voltage looks like normal. You should be using the car charger USB plug with it's special cable for these tests. Only that cable can power the camera while it is charging and recording. It's not clear if that is what you are doing.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 07:14 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I use cabel deliver with camera.
...
The camera comes with two cables... one standard USB and the other "special cable" with the car charger. Which one are you using?
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The camera comes with two cables... one standard USB and the other "special cable" with the car charger. Which one are you using?
I using standard USB
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 08:12 PM
Secret Squirrel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggtronic View Post
really fun to feel the flight with plane in view
it glide for ever !

here is my CL 415 flown yesterday with keychain on the rudder top :
(borrow the idea from Saucisse )

http://vimeo.com/28488694
Nice video
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I using standard USB
Well that is your first problem! It will NOT do the job that was siggested by Isoprop. It will NOT power the camera while recording like the car charger cable will, so all your tests have been running on the battery power alone. You MUST use the special car charger cable in order to supply power to the camera while recording. Try it!
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
I use cabel deliver with camera.
I charged battery to full (nokia battery BL-4C), i do that same with original battery 250mAh. On original battery no changes (noise sound and picture). On nokia battery picure are good (no noise), sound too is good but after about 60 second recordinc sound are noise (picture still good). I stop recording and start on few min. (picutr good, after 60 sec. sound nois like battery is discharge.)

Now I trial with freez.

In freez camera no work. Power on , Led light yelow, I push button record, and nothing..., yelow Led light. Work only power button.
Well, even if you didn't do the test like we told you, you still have some meaningful results!

Like Tom has mentioned, LIPO batteries don't like the cold.

If you have a new, fully charged battery, and start the camera and then put it in the freezer you should get about 2-4 minutes recording. If the camera is working correctly, it will save the video when the LIPO gets too cold and can't supply enough voltage.

Your results clearly indicate that your battery is bad. I can't say this with 100% certainty, but it certainly looks as if your camera works, but it needs a new battery. I would certainly NOT use the Nokia battery. Only use batteries from the #11, or possibly, the #3.

To be more certain, you really should tell us if the camera works with the "special" cable (the one from the car battery charger) and a #3 battery. Please DO NOT use the Nokia battery. If the Nokia battery doesn't have the protection circuit built in, you will most probably truly destroy your camera.

Also, please do not connect +5 volts directly to the printed circuit board. Doing so could also destroy the electronics. Only directly connect 4.2V and nothing higher.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Well, even if you didn't do the test like we told you, you still have some meaningful results!

Like Tom has mentioned, LIPO batteries don't like the cold.

If you have a new, fully charged battery, and start the camera and then put it in the freezer you should get about 2-4 minutes recording. If the camera is working correctly, it will save the video when the LIPO gets too cold and can't supply enough voltage.

Your results clearly indicate that your battery is bad. I can't say this with 100% certainty, but it certainly looks as if your camera works, but it needs a new battery. I would certainly NOT use the Nokia battery. Only use batteries from the #11, or possibly, the #3.

To be more certain, you really should tell us if the camera works with the "special" cable (the one from the car battery charger) and a #3 battery. Please DO NOT use the Nokia battery. If the Nokia battery doesn't have the protection circuit built in, you will most probably truly destroy your camera.

Also, please do not connect +5 volts directly to the printed circuit board. Doing so could also destroy the electronics. Only directly connect 4.2V and nothing higher.

I do like you say.
Full charge two battery from #3 (special cabel) and #11 (normal conect to camera). earlyier I conect battery inversely (#11 battery to special cabel, #3 bateery...).
Result that same, 60 sec good picture and soun, than noise (on #11 battery in normal connect, no special cabel, nose only sound ).
One more thing, when I connect special cabel with battery to camera when film recor, nois in picture and sound are start straightaway.
I add that camera not charge any batter
Now freezer trial:
I put record camera to freezer 1 min. ( picture and sound good to 45 sec, than noise pic. and sound), I conetc battery with special cabel,( battery oudsied, camera in fr.) noise become larger pic. and soun. but camera worke still. I put camera to freezer about 4 min.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 08:12 AM
a.d.m.i.n
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Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
I wonder if someone will ever "produce" DIY module(hack) to use this CAM for direct FPV(video in/out).

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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Joined Dec 2010
76 Posts
Hi guys, this is my key cam mounted on the FPV cam of my Skyrider.
Waiting for the test.
Greetings
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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keychain with 0.67x converter on vacation

Keychain camera Croatian adventures (20 min 36 sec)
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 01:44 PM
Dance the skies...
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Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
keychain with 0.67x converter on vacation
...
That is simply EXCELLENT in all respects! The best #11 video posted here to date. Have you posted your camera enclosure/lens method here? If not, please do so and I'll link it in the FAQs.

This is also the first video with an add-on lens I recall that has the entire #11 frame captured without clipping or serious darkening/focus issues at the corners. Well done!

FWIW, rumor has it that a stock #11 with a 170 deg. lens is being worked on. That would likely be too much fisheye distortion for my taste, but maybe suitable for some. If I get any more info on this I will post it here.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Sep 03, 2011 at 02:24 PM.
Old Sep 03, 2011, 02:20 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
Also, please do not connect +5 volts directly to the printed circuit board. Doing so could also destroy the electronics. Only directly connect 4.2V and nothing higher.
FWIW, the latest car charger (small plug with standard USB socket and no integral cable) supplies a full 5V, not the reduced (nominal 4.2V) voltage like the original car charger with integral special cable. This allows that plug to be used with it's special cable for the camera charge/recording or standard USB cable to charge the camera in normal fashion or power other electronic equipment that uses a standard USB voltage connection.

And since the special cable directly connects the car charger output to the camera circuit board in parallel with the battery output, the camera circuit board is seeing the full 5V with the battery relying on it's integral protection circuit board to clip the voltage to a safe level (nominal 4.2V).

I previously queried the developer about this and he said their tests show no serious side effects from the higher voltage from the car charger. But this does stress the camera circuitry more than necessary, and also the battery if it is in a discharged state when the car charger is connected since the camera's lipo charge IC (with CC/CV charge logic) is bypassed. Also, this removes one of the two factors of safety for battery over-voltage protection.

I'm not sure the change was worth it, and wonder if this might be responsible for some of the premature battery and camera failures being reported?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
FWIW, the latest car charger (small plug with standard USB socket and no integral cable) supplies a full 5V, not the reduced (nominal 4.2V) voltage like the original car charger with integral special cable. This allows that plug to be used with it's special cable for the camera charge/recording or standard USB cable to charge the camera in normal fashion or power other electronic equipment that uses a standard USB voltage connection.

And since the special cable directly connects the car charger output to the camera circuit board in parallel with the battery output, the camera circuit board is seeing the full 5V with the battery relying on it's integral protection circuit board to clip the voltage to a safe level (nominal 4.2V).

I previously queried the developer about this and he said their tests show no serious side effects from the higher voltage from the car charger. But this does stress the camera circuitry more than necessary, and also the battery if it is in a discharged state when the car charger is connected since the camera's lipo charge IC (with CC/CV charge logic) is bypassed. Also, this removes one of the two factors of safety for battery over-voltage protection.

I'm not sure the change was worth it, and wonder if this might be responsible for some of the premature battery and camera failures being reported?
Thanks for this clarification, Tom. I remember you mentioning this, but I wasn't aware (most probably misread) that the circuitry was exposed to 5V, i.e. there would be 5V on the board's + battery terminal with the special cable attached.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedwolf1 View Post
...
One more thing, when I connect special cabel with battery to camera when film recor, nois in picture and sound are start straightaway.
I add that camera not charge any batter
Now freezer trial:
I put record camera to freezer 1 min. ( picture and sound good to 45 sec, than noise pic. and sound), I conetc battery with special cabel,( battery oudsied, camera in fr.) noise become larger pic. and soun. but camera worke still. I put camera to freezer about 4 min.
Very strange. So, in the freezer you get 45 seconds of good video, and out of the freezer you immediately get bad video. To me, this indicates that some component is immediately overheating.

To localize the failing component you will need a can of coolant spray "freeze 75" (Kälte 75 from Kontakt Chemie), or similar. The idea is that you spray an area to make it cold (up to -50°C) and see what the results are. However, I don't think this is worth it for the #11 - the spray is quite expensive and, if you find which component needs to be replaced, you will have to do that as well. This is just not possible if you don't have any electronic/SMD soldering experience. I think the easiest solution is to purchase a new #11. I'm sorry - I thought we may be able to fix your camera, but it now looks as if you destroyed a component when you reversed the polarity. If you order a new camera, may I suggest that you also order a spare battery at the same time.

I want to adde that there still is a TINY chance that a new #11 battery could be the solution...
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 01:10 AM
ptg
Barjetling Academy #1
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Joined Apr 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
keychain with 0.67x converter on vacation

http://vimeo.com/28547744
Very very nice !
Brač rulz!

Next week I will be on Hvar, so some material will be posted here as well.
Aerial & sub of corse.
This life is for enjoying only.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 03:41 AM
a.d.m.i.n
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
keychain with 0.67x converter on vacation

http://vimeo.com/28547744
What body you use for water?
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 08:09 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2010
215 Posts
Water Proof!!

An amazing camera, as well as RC plane crashes, it even survived a trip through the washing machine in a pocket of my shorts!!

Left for 2 days to dry out, then charged up OK.

Rather a drastic way to clean the lens, but it now takes even better video and I have ordered another one.

Great product~~~~~~~~~~~
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 10:34 AM
Suspended Account
United States, NJ, Manchester
Joined May 2011
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Double trouble state park from the air (3 min 45 sec)

#11 HD Floater Jet over Coyle Field (4 min 47 sec)


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Old Sep 04, 2011, 12:58 PM
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United States, AR
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
keychain with 0.67x converter on vacation

http://vimeo.com/28547744
Very arty and entertaining. Keep up the good work. How did you do the flying from under water part?

Man, the Chinese vendor should pay you for this video as it is a great advertizement for what it is capable of. It's amazing what you did with this cheap little cam. I'm starting my underwater housing today!
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Last edited by Randbo39; Sep 04, 2011 at 01:12 PM.
Old Sep 04, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
What body you use for water?

hi all,

underwater I used fish food container with clear plastic glued at the front

converter was fixed without the magnetic ring.
I've tried 0.5x converter also but there was some bluriness in the corners.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randbo39 View Post
How did you do the flying from under water part?
I've recorded that part manually and merged with the copter part using some plain image editing and blur effect (gimp + avisynth + virtualdub).
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 12:59 PM
Nakelp
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United States, NJ, Union
Joined Sep 2004
6,794 Posts
Hey guys , there was someone (in England I believe) who was making fiberglass enclosures for keychain with wide angle lens, I cant remember and cant find the post anywhere.
Anyone has a better memory :-))
A Link would do.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 01:00 PM
a.d.m.i.n
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498 Posts
Can you take picture of that "food container". So it's DIY. Isn't this too risky?
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 06:04 PM
Ook!
skaffen's Avatar
New Zealand
Joined Aug 2007
1,496 Posts
Do you mind me asking what converter you are using, and where can I get a couple? That's a nice crisp image

Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
hi all,

underwater I used fish food container with clear plastic glued at the front

converter was fixed without the magnetic ring.
I've tried 0.5x converter also but there was some bluriness in the corners.



I've recorded that part manually and merged with the copter part using some plain image editing and blur effect (gimp + avisynth + virtualdub).
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 03:28 AM
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bought the converter from here:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/univers...l-phones-14953

underwater food container
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 04:34 AM
Must not buy more planes!
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USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
Orderized! Great video; I especially love the beginning. Man, everything is so boring looking around where I live. I'm starting to feel like I need to travel the country just to have something to make interesting videos of!
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 05:08 AM
Master Of My Universe
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Newcastle, UK
Joined Jul 2010
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This is a problem most people have, they think the area they live in is boring but although you see it day after day - we don't so it won't be boring to us

You may have to do a few videos to make one up you want to post but I feel sure whatever you post you will get positive feedback and probably some helpful tips on how to make your videos even more interesting .


Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Man, everything is so boring looking around where I live. I'm starting to feel like I need to travel the country just to have something to make interesting videos of!
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 05:30 AM
Must not buy more planes!
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USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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I'm not shy about posting videos but, seriously, my aerials are miles and miles of ... not very much.

I am lucky enough to have an empty field, 1/2 mile on a side, to fly out of but all that grass isn't terribly interesting. This view is looking south but it's pretty much the same in any direction.

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Last edited by mclarkson; Sep 05, 2011 at 05:36 AM.
Old Sep 05, 2011, 05:49 AM
Master Of My Universe
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Newcastle, UK
Joined Jul 2010
2,709 Posts
I don't know if you have anyone who could video your plane then you could mix the onboard with the ground video. Some of the videos I like watching are flying close to the ground, I had a quick look at your profile and if you have the Tiger Moth then might you be interested in slow fly pasts and if you could mount a keyfob cam underneath the plane at 90 deg you could fly alongside that road and film the traffic (safely lol).


Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I'm not shy about posting videos but, seriously, my aerials are miles and miles of ... not very much.

I am lucky enough to have an empty field, 1/2 mile on a side, to fly out of but all that grass isn't terribly interesting. This view is looking south but it's pretty much the same in any direction.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
This is a problem most people have, they think the area they live in is boring but although you see it day after day - we don't so it won't be boring to us
Video content, and subject matter, is an interesting sub-topic for readers here. IMO. There is no doubt that someone close to the Mediterranean Sea will have what most would consider a better Cinematographic opportunity than say someone who lives in the plains area of the U.S.

So there has to be some tips and tricks out there, I would love to hear from the pro-video people out there from a content aspect, how one can make videos from even what they consider a "boring" area more interesting. If there is a link to a thread that covers this, that would be great.

I think Cholo has another advantage in his vehicle. A quad copter has, of course, a much slower speed approach that allows more time on target for video.

Awesome video that was.

Pat
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 12:22 PM
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capt's Avatar
Nevada, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I'm not shy about posting videos but, seriously, my aerials are miles and miles of ... not very much.

I am lucky enough to have an empty field, 1/2 mile on a side, to fly out of but all that grass isn't terribly interesting. This view is looking south but it's pretty much the same in any direction.


Us desert rats always find miles of green grass breathtaking. Subjects can make a video much more interesting, they don't need to be persons either, anything from tractors in the field to animals or water towers etc.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 12:24 PM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
753 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I'm not shy about posting videos but, seriously, my aerials are miles and miles of ... not very much.

I am lucky enough to have an empty field, 1/2 mile on a side, to fly out of but all that grass isn't terribly interesting. This view is looking south but it's pretty much the same in any direction.

Flat and green......looks just like Holland!
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Joined Aug 2011
1 Posts
808HD Lens Car Keychain Camera DV #11 Jumbo V3 1280x720

I have just purchased one of these microcameras from eletoponline365 who sells on EBAY.

This appears to be an excellent camera, and have had good video and photo results with it.

The instructions are somewhat cryptic, however, especially regarding streaming from the camera to the computer.

My experience.... 1] I use RealPlayer to do the actual streaming and 2] VLC-Media Player to view the videos.

Real Player was quite sensitive apparently about the degree of "corruptedness" produced by the camera, and would not display the longer files, and would not have sound for any of the files.

Overall, it is a good buy.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 05:12 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,396 Posts
I would love to get more 'subject matter' in my videos, but so far I've had a hard time finding safe/legal/smart places to fly that feature many ... features. But, just so's you know I ain't afraid, here's
  • My Radian over my normal flying field, with crazy wind and lightening,
  • My lite Stryker buzzing over my neighborhood
  • And my Tiger Moth flying over a nice park, 10-15 miles away from my house.
Lightning? What Lightning? Re-maidening my Radian (4 min 47 sec)


Light Stryker: Up on the Roof (5 min 38 sec)


Hippy Horse's Return to the Skies - GWS Tiger Moth 400 (3 min 38 sec)


All taken with #11s. I think you have to click thru to Vimeo to actually see them in HD.

As for tips, I'll offer up this one. I've come to really like cutting my videos to music as it forces me to keep it short. Otherwise ... I tend to run a little long. I think we are all more fascinated with our own flights than any other person reasonably could me. No one but me wants to watch 28 minutes of my Radian hovering in a breeze over a wheat field.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 08:34 PM
Ook!
skaffen's Avatar
New Zealand
Joined Aug 2007
1,496 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cholo View Post
Awesome, thanks for the link. Your holiday video is the best use I've seen of a #11 cam
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Last edited by skaffen; Sep 05, 2011 at 09:45 PM.
Old Sep 05, 2011, 10:10 PM
Registered User
bentech's Avatar
Canada, QC, Brossard
Joined Jun 2006
367 Posts
Theres probably all the anwsers to my questions on thats tread, but i dont feel to go thru the entire tread. I'm totaly new to aerial recording. I have a fews airplaine and i want to get this little key chain camera and fix it the one of my planes so i can see what my house and neighberhood look like from the air. I use a 2.4 ghz spectrum transmitter/receiver. I just want to record maby during 7-8 mins when i fly over my house and after use the usb cable and plug it to my TV (i have a usb slut on the side of my tv) and check the vidéo.Ok, heres my questions: Is this kit are complete for what i want to do ?? I mean, do i have to purchase a memory card, battery, cable etc... Do i need a specal PC program to read the video from the camera or i can plug it direct to my TV and watch the little movie that i'v shoot ??
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 10:47 PM
Registered User
tmsn's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Dec 2009
1,329 Posts
Here's the video I made of my first few flights with the #11 and my Airfield / FMS P-51 Mustang. Thanks for all the great help!

Airfield / FMS P-51 Onboard HD #11 keychain camera (6 min 37 sec)


(fixed)
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Last edited by tmsn; Sep 06, 2011 at 01:15 AM.
Old Sep 05, 2011, 10:47 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspinner20 View Post
Video content, and subject matter, is an interesting sub-topic for readers here. IMO. There is no doubt that someone close to the Mediterranean Sea will have what most would consider a better Cinematographic opportunity than say someone who lives in the plains area of the U.S.

So there has to be some tips and tricks out there, I would love to hear from the pro-video people out there from a content aspect, how one can make videos from even what they consider a "boring" area more interesting. If there is a link to a thread that covers this, that would be great.

I think Cholo has another advantage in his vehicle. A quad copter has, of course, a much slower speed approach that allows more time on target for video.

Awesome video that was.

Pat
You need to vary the view constantly to maintain interest. Notice in today's movies the camera is never still. For instance even a shot of two people talking, not only does it cut from one to another, but the camera circles as well. All designed to increase the interest factor.
So we should attempt the same. High level shots that show all that's down there, then pick out one of the interest points and go in low so the viewer can see what it looks like. Then maybe really low with a side-on view of the same interest point. Back up high, then go low again on something else, and then say a loop over this. Then fly low past a row of trees.
Variety, is the name of the game

Kev
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 10:59 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bentech View Post
Theres probably all the anwsers to my questions on thats tread, but i dont feel to go thru the entire tread. I'm totaly new to aerial recording. I have a fews airplaine and i want to get this little key chain camera and fix it the one of my planes so i can see what my house and neighberhood look like from the air. I use a 2.4 ghz spectrum transmitter/receiver. I just want to record maby during 7-8 mins when i fly over my house and after use the usb cable and plug it to my TV (i have a usb slut on the side of my tv) and check the vidéo.Ok, heres my questions: Is this kit are complete for what i want to do ?? I mean, do i have to purchase a memory card, battery, cable etc... Do i need a specal PC program to read the video from the camera or i can plug it direct to my TV and watch the little movie that i'v shoot ??
You will need a decent micro SDHC memory card (Class 4 minimum, 4GB capacity recommended). Battery is int he camera. Cables come with the camera. You'll need to check what kind of video file formats your TV can read. The camera uses .mov file format with H.264 video codec. Chances are your TV may not have that codec installed, so you might need to convert the native file to one the TV can decode, like .wmv. There's free converters/editors that can do that. Please read through the first three posts to get more familiar with the camera.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 11:16 PM
Registered User
capt's Avatar
Nevada, USA
Joined Sep 2007
1,921 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsn View Post
Here's the video I made of my first few flights with the #11 and my Airfield / FMS P-51 Mustang. Thanks for all the great help!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVW8lNVGiTI
This video is private. Change your settings
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 01:04 AM
Registered User
ChuckTseeker's Avatar
Adelaide Plains Australia
Joined Dec 2007
3,469 Posts
hi all, well at last i updated my camera to an 11# and am wondering if i got a dud! the color is too red, there is a horrible electric interference type noise on the sound and last off, it has just turned off on me while in flight, once at about the 30 sec mark then yesterday while up filming it shut off at about 12 minutes into the flight, it shouldn't be the battery as i started it up again and got another 14 minute flight that it didn't turn off on also it seems to be hunting all the time for the right colors focus

i bought it from the same ebay dealer i have bought all my key cams from "eletoponline365" and bought the one that was already updated to run longer than 20 min and the time/date stamp removed, i have bought a few of the old cams from him and never had any trouble, do you think the cam i have now is faulty?

cheers chuck
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 01:15 AM
Registered User
tmsn's Avatar
USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Dec 2009
1,329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by capt View Post
This video is private. Change your settings
Fixed now, thanks!
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 01:56 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
hi all, well at last i updated my camera to an 11# and am wondering if i got a dud! the color is too red, there is a horrible electric interference type noise on the sound and last off, it has just turned off on me while in flight, once at about the 30 sec mark then yesterday while up filming it shut off at about 12 minutes into the flight, it shouldn't be the battery as i started it up again and got another 14 minute flight that it didn't turn off on also it seems to be hunting all the time for the right colors focus

i bought it from the same ebay dealer i have bought all my key cams from "eletoponline365" and bought the one that was already updated to run longer than 20 min and the time/date stamp removed, i have bought a few of the old cams from him and never had any trouble, do you think the cam i have now is faulty?

cheers chuck
The color shift is a known issue (see the FAQs), but the flakey shutdown is not normal. It could ba an intermittant battery connection or even a flakey battery. The noise you are hearing (a buzz every second?) is likely the low voltage artifact that can be heard when the battery is low. But, there have been other reports of the camera shutting down prematurely, some times after only a minute or so.

If you can record with the car charger and SPECIAL 2-wire cable (NOT the generic USB cable) that comes with the camera, you should be able to take the battery issue out of the equation. That will power the camera from your car battery. Also, run a test on your flash memory card with h2testw utility (free download) to make sure your memory card is not corrupted and terminating the recording.

ALL this is in the FAQS (post #3).
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 02:32 AM
Registered User
ChuckTseeker's Avatar
Adelaide Plains Australia
Joined Dec 2007
3,469 Posts
Thanks Tom and i did read the facts at the first posts nothing about my problem with the shutting down so when i asked i gave "All" the info i could about my cam incase it was relevant to the problem i am having, that being redness in pic - searching - shutting down - beeping noise

the first i got this cam i charged it up in the car and used it to record a trip we did sitting it on the dash of the car and using the car charger, this cam has been charged with the car connector and then on the computer after i have downloaded the files, should i put it on my car to charge instead of the computer?

as said after it has shut down i have started it up again and got another 14 minute flight without it turning off, does this still point to a faulty battery?

anyone had any luck with after sales service from these guys? ("eletoponline365" ) or do we just buy another and hope for better luck next time?

anyway here is a short vid i did yesterday where my prop broke, this was the 4th flight for the day and the cam had turned off on the second flight, was still working fine here and you can see and hear what i was talking about

cheers chuck

Radian Prop-Front End Loss.m2t (0 min 56 sec)
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 08:08 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2011
1 Posts
Hi Chuck

Just bought mine from eletoponline365 and had not such strange red areas. The only problem i have is a not often occuring stuttering such as the framerate sinks at the half of the normal 30 fraps. I think it's a sort of temperature problem because it has started in the middle of the video at about 15 Minutes.

Dieter
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 12:15 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
Thanks Tom and i did read the facts at the first posts nothing about my problem with the shutting down so when i asked i gave "All" the info i could about my cam incase it was relevant to the problem i am having, that being redness in pic - searching - shutting down - beeping noise

the first i got this cam i charged it up in the car and used it to record a trip we did sitting it on the dash of the car and using the car charger, this cam has been charged with the car connector and then on the computer after i have downloaded the files, should i put it on my car to charge instead of the computer?

as said after it has shut down i have started it up again and got another 14 minute flight without it turning off, does this still point to a faulty battery?

anyone had any luck with after sales service from these guys? ("eletoponline365" ) or do we just buy another and hope for better luck next time?

anyway here is a short vid i did yesterday where my prop broke, this was the 4th flight for the day and the cam had turned off on the second flight, was still working fine here and you can see and hear what i was talking about

cheers chuck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD-27mKzBbE
That intermittant buzzing sound is what the FAQs reference when the battery voltage is low. As you likely know from your flight lipo batteries, their voltage under load will drop, substantially depending on how the amp load compares to the batteries C rating. And then when the load is removed, the voltage will recover. I think that is what is happening with your camera. But it's not normal that you should get a 10-15 min. video, then another one after it shuts down. It's possible your battery has a higher than normal internal resistance, so it's dropping the voltage more than nromal under load (causing the camera to shut down), then recovers to a fairly high voltage after resting with still a lot of it's original capacity intact, so it can then repeat that cycle. My flight batteries typically die a slow death like that. They will charge to a pretty normal voltage, but they just can't hold the voltage when powering the motor. There is also a slight chance your camera might have some temperature-related issue that causes the camera to shut down after 10-15 min. A long recording test using the car charger can determine if that is the case, in which case a camera replacement would be needed.

You should charge your battery using a standard USB cord for safest results because that will control the charge cycle via the camera's internal charging IC chip. When you use the car charger, it supplies 5V to the camera circuit board in parallel with the battery, and only the battery's small integral over-voltage protection circuit board keeps the battery from being nuked. If that circuit board is not working properly, you could be subjecting the battery to an unsafe and damaging voltage. Also, if you charge a depleted battery by that method, the camera's charging controller IC is bypassed, so you might be charging initially at too high a C rate, again possibly damaging the battery. It's best to only connect the car charger when the camera has a fully charged battery and is recording to add some load to the external power supply. Note these are just my opinions, and there is no conclusive evidence that there is anything wrong with the camera's design that causes the battery to degrade abnormally. You could have a battery that was weak right from the factory.

If your memory card checks out OK and you can record without the camera shutting down prematurely when using the car charger, then I'd conclude your battery is a bad apple and ask your vendor for a replacement battery. You'll need to replace the battery at some point anyway, so if the camera is otherwise working OK, there's not much point in exchanging it.

I watched the video, and the color issues there are consistent with my small version #11 and many other videos you'll see posted here. There is slight darkening and color shift near the frame corners and right/left edges. This is caused by the lens vignetting (light drop off). There is a reddish "hot spot" in the center of the frame, also a lens issue. Both of these are correctable during post processing editing if you have the inclination to do so (see FAQs or search the thread for more info). The CMOS array in this camera seems to also have a color saturation shift as light level changes, making off-colors look more noticeable. Decreasing color saturation during editing can help with this, too. Otherwise, it's something we have to live with in an inexpensive HD camera like this unless the developer can find a better CMOS/lens module.

Finally, there a color hue shift from slightly "warm" (yellow tint) when the light level rises to some trigger point to slightly "cool" blue tint when the light level drops back below that point. The shift can be quite sudden and it's very annoying when it happens, such as with an aerial video where the plane's slight pitching causes the horizon to rise and fall in the frame, causing the light level to cross over that trigger point frequently. I'm hoping (and have asked recently) that the developer see if this can be tweaked in the CMOS configuration setting or in the video processor settings so that the color stays consistent throughout the video. If the color then still has a slightly warm or slight cool tint, at least it can be easily corrected with an editor.

Your Ebay vendor, and all the others listed in post #2, have given good after sales service and support based on the user feedback here.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Sep 06, 2011 at 12:21 PM.
Old Sep 06, 2011, 12:28 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Swordfish2 View Post
Hi Chuck

Just bought mine from eletoponline365 and had not such strange red areas. The only problem i have is a not often occuring stuttering such as the framerate sinks at the half of the normal 30 fraps. I think it's a sort of temperature problem because it has started in the middle of the video at about 15 Minutes.

Dieter
Maybe you can post a BRIEF native (not re-encoded before uploading) video clip showing this uploaded to Vimeo.com so we can download your original video clip and analyze the native video? This is not a normal if the light level is decent (any daylight scene). Indoor scenes cause the shutter speed to slow down and both smeared motion and dropped frames can result unless there is very high artificial lighting.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 12:31 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,980 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsn View Post
Here's the video I made of my first few flights with the #11 and my Airfield / FMS P-51 Mustang. Thanks for all the great help!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlTxqTYsimg

(fixed)
That wide angle lens sure makes the Mustang look very "un-Mustang-like" But the wing tip cam showing the retract action and T&G was pretty neat!
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 12:47 PM
Registered User
Randbo39's Avatar
United States, AR
Joined Mar 2009
520 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsn View Post
Here's the video I made of my first few flights with the #11 and my Airfield / FMS P-51 Mustang. Thanks for all the great help!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlTxqTYsimg

(fixed)
Good job!
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 01:14 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
hi all, well at last i updated my camera to an 11# and am wondering if i got a dud! the color is too red, there is a horrible electric interference type noise on the sound and last off, it has just turned off on me while in flight, once at about the 30 sec mark then yesterday while up filming it shut off at about 12 minutes into the flight, it shouldn't be the battery as i started it up again and got another 14 minute flight that it didn't turn off on also it seems to be hunting all the time for the right colors focus

i bought it from the same ebay dealer i have bought all my key cams from "eletoponline365" and bought the one that was already updated to run longer than 20 min and the time/date stamp removed, i have bought a few of the old cams from him and never had any trouble, do you think the cam i have now is faulty?

cheers chuck
Chuck,
The buttons are so sensitive, I'm wondering if the wind is not turning the cam off. The buzzing may actually be vibration of either the buttons or other loose parts on the case. Mine sounded electronic too, but it was not. I taped my buttons and other loose parts until the vibration stopped.
Hope that helps.
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