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Old Aug 22, 2011, 09:28 PM
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My lipo is dying. After 24 minutes it starts making the pulsing noise. I need to buy a replacement lipo. However, do any of the ebay sellers have a external portable power pack (not the emergency charger) but power supply? I want to buy it not make it.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:31 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
My lipo is dying. After 24 minutes it starts making the pulsing noise. I need to buy a replacement lipo. However, do any of the ebay sellers have a external portable power pack (not the emergency charger) but power supply? I want to buy it not make it.
Yes, they all sell a four hour external power pack as well as spare internal lipo cells. I think it's shown on the web sites as well as in the FAQs link to external power. You may have to email to buy just the power pack if not shown separately.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yes, they all sell a four hour power pack. I think it's shown on the web sites as well as in the FAQs link to external power. You may have to email to buy just the power pack if not shown separately.
Tom,

Thanks.

Bill
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:14 PM
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My 11# is also showing signs of battery fatigue, as I mentioned in another post I hope to connect a larger capacity lipo to the case with a bit of botching. (I know the charge circuit must be used.) Did a bit of Googling and came up with this 250 mA 3.7v Eflight available for about 8.
http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/...duct_info.html
Type: LiPo
Capacity: 250mAh
Voltage: 3.7V
Connector Type: Ultra-micro
Weight: 0.26 oz (7.4g)
Configuration: 1S
Length: 1.20 in (30.5mm)
Width: 0.80 in (20.3mm)
Height: 0.28 in (7.1mm)
Maximum Continuous Discharge : 12C
Maximum Continuous Current : 3A

It's obviously too big to directly replace the internal LiPo, but I plan to solder connect it and glue it to the outside of the case. It should give at least double the record time of the present battery.

Do you think it's suitable Tom? (I have read the FAQ's and your comment about the battery you used.)

cheers. Bob
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:19 PM
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And on a slightly different note, here's some test footage of the #11 with the Deal Extreme Fisheye with a comparison with the 0.67x wide angle field of view. Not RC model flying I'm afraid, more paragliding!

The 0.67x is part number 14953, which is reckoned to be the best wide angle lense. And the fisheye is 39814.

Quite a nice effect with the fisheye, but for most purposes I think the 0.67x is a better choice. Sharper and less distortion.

HD Key chain with Deal Extreme wide angle and fisheye lense test - Paragliding Freathy (3 min 37 sec)
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 05:33 PM
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United States, OK, Lawton
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Here's my maiden flight:)

First time up with this quad. It's a short clip ... and my piloting skills are non-existant and there's very poor lighting ... a florescent . I've got about 10 minutes flight time since I started this hobby. I'm trying to fly in an 8'X8' kitchen, surrounded by pillows. That works for about 10 minutes until I dive it in from about 6' and bend two motor mounts and cracked one, or maybe two of the CF booms.

I've got some 1/2" aircraft aluminum tubing in the mail to me. The quad flew beutifully, at least for me. This is first one I've built that acts like I thot they were supposed too. Comes up mostly straight up with a little vibration while still on the floor, but once I get airborn, the vibrations end and it's smooth sailing, sort of. That's what I'm trying to show with this clip ... the smoothness of the video, given my piloting skills, or lack thereof. Can't wait to try it outside where there's more room. Please excuse the horrible piloting

I call it the "Borg Ship" ... that's what it kind of reminds me of. 9.5" motor spacing, 1lb-11oz, as in the photo.







Here's the clip ... 19 secs, 5MB

http://www.hkrmicrop.com/TM/KitchenMaiden.avi

I used 1/4" 3M viscoelastic foam above and below the deck, with the wing nut and washer tightened down to just snug, barely compressing the foam. I ran a 4-40 1-1/4" screw up thru the ring loop on the HD. I had to screw it in and it's a pretty tight fit, but it didn't damage the HD in any way. I also velcro'd 3 copper washers to the camera, underneath, to give it a little more inertial mass. The hole that the 4-40 screw goes thru the deck in is nearly 1/2", so there's lots of give for the screw.

I love this camera.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 07:40 PM
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Joined Jul 2006
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Non-Ebay source

Hi all,

I spent the past few hours reading about this camera. After looking over the FAQ, the only sellers listed are on ebay and in China. Are there any Non-ebay sources for this camera? I normally love ebay, but the reason I'm asking is because I'd like to use it this weekend for an event and shipping from China would take too long (unless there's a seller that is responsive and willing to ship express airmail). I looked over amazon and other websites - they all seem to sell older versions, not the #11. I'm willing to pay a bit more to get it here in time.

Thanks for this wonderful resource guys!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 08:27 PM
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United States, TN, Oakland
Joined Sep 2008
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I just bought a second HD #11, but after charging when I press the power button nothing happens. The amber light came on only after pressing 15-20 times. It doesn't matter if its a short or long press, the power button only works intermittently. Has anyone else had this problem? (I'm familiar with how to operate it because I've owned another one for 5 months).
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 08:44 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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It might be worth the trouble to open the case and make sure that the buttons are not restrained or hampered by any flashing or seepage from the molding process that may be on the buttons or on the openings they work through.

As a warning, opening the case will probably require you to part or break a seal on the case and that might also mean that you can't return it.

There was some mention something like this on one of the Chuck Lohr pages, I think it was that a protrusion on the inside of the case was pressing the reset button in and holding in the down position all the time or something like that.

I'd probably be willing to take the chance on opening one of the $15 or so models to check it, but these $40 or so ones should be fully tested and working on receipt in my opinion. I would demand a no cost to me return or exchange if I got one that did not work.

Of all the cultural gaps that exist between Americans and the Chinese, the almost complete lack of business ethics is one of the most disheartening.

Jack
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 09:46 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
My 11# is also showing signs of battery fatigue, as I mentioned in another post I hope to connect a larger capacity lipo to the case with a bit of botching. (I know the charge circuit must be used.) Did a bit of Googling and came up with this 250 mA 3.7v Eflight available for about 8.
http://www.kingslynnmodelshop.co.uk/...duct_info.html
Type: LiPo
Capacity: 250mAh
Voltage: 3.7V
Connector Type: Ultra-micro
Weight: 0.26 oz (7.4g)
Configuration: 1S
Length: 1.20 in (30.5mm)
Width: 0.80 in (20.3mm)
Height: 0.28 in (7.1mm)
Maximum Continuous Discharge : 12C
Maximum Continuous Current : 3A

It's obviously too big to directly replace the internal LiPo, but I plan to solder connect it and glue it to the outside of the case. It should give at least double the record time of the present battery.

Do you think it's suitable Tom? (I have read the FAQ's and your comment about the battery you used.)

cheers. Bob
It should work, but it's the same capacity as the stock battery, so the record time won't be any longer. It MAY last longer being a flight battery with 12C rating, but the price is very high for just a single cell. I think you can get better prices for a larger cell if you want (at least here I can).

<EDIT> In re-reading, maybe you meant twice the recording time with this battery wired in parallel with the stock battery? That I would say is about right, but it should not be connected to the car charger since it does not have the voltage protection circuit board (Guessing here... no pic of the battery in the link <EDIT>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 23, 2011 at 10:17 PM.
Old Aug 23, 2011, 09:55 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBfour View Post
Hi all,

I spent the past few hours reading about this camera. After looking over the FAQ, the only sellers listed are on ebay and in China. Are there any Non-ebay sources for this camera? I normally love ebay, but the reason I'm asking is because I'd like to use it this weekend for an event and shipping from China would take too long (unless there's a seller that is responsive and willing to ship express airmail). I looked over amazon and other websites - they all seem to sell older versions, not the #11. I'm willing to pay a bit more to get it here in time.

Thanks for this wonderful resource guys!
No. only the Ebay sources are known to sell this camera.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
...

Of all the cultural gaps that exist between Americans and the Chinese, the almost complete lack of business ethics is one of the most disheartening.

Jack
Are you saying that American web stores don't require that you return defective merchandise to get a replacement? Hardly! Just about every vendor requires warranty returns to be sent at your expense... it's a rare one that doesn't. This is standard practice here in the U.S.!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 10:37 PM
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
It might be worth the trouble to open the case and make sure that the buttons are not restrained or hampered by any flashing or seepage from the molding process that may be on the buttons or on the openings they work through.

As a warning, opening the case will probably require you to part or break a seal on the case and that might also mean that you can't return it.

There was some mention something like this on one of the Chuck Lohr pages, I think it was that a protrusion on the inside of the case was pressing the reset button in and holding in the down position all the time or something like that.

I'd probably be willing to take the chance on opening one of the $15 or so models to check it, but these $40 or so ones should be fully tested and working on receipt in my opinion. I would demand a no cost to me return or exchange if I got one that did not work.

Of all the cultural gaps that exist between Americans and the Chinese, the almost complete lack of business ethics is one of the most disheartening.

Jack
They are cheap for a reason.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 11:10 PM
ptg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
It might be worth the trouble to open the case and make sure that the buttons are not restrained or hampered by any flashing or seepage from the molding process that may be on the buttons or on the openings they work through.

As a warning, opening the case will probably require you to part or break a seal on the case and that might also mean that you can't return it.

There was some mention something like this on one of the Chuck Lohr pages, I think it was that a protrusion on the inside of the case was pressing the reset button in and holding in the down position all the time or something like that.

I'd probably be willing to take the chance on opening one of the $15 or so models to check it, but these $40 or so ones should be fully tested and working on receipt in my opinion. I would demand a no cost to me return or exchange if I got one that did not work.

Of all the cultural gaps that exist between Americans and the Chinese, the almost complete lack of business ethics is one of the most disheartening.

Jack
Believe me, this #11 sellers are one of the best, trusted ebay sellers !
They really always help when some trouble occur.
And maybe, they already have two offices now
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 11:58 PM
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Charlottesville, VA
Joined Jun 2005
976 Posts
deal extream lens

here is a vid with the deal extream lens, I can live with the distortion as the field of view is awsome, 2 vids

this one with the wide angle lens
cobweb hd 072811 wide angle (7 min 31 sec)


this one std lens
cobweb05082011b (9 min 47 sec)
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 11:59 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Portland
Joined Aug 2011
462 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BBfour View Post
Hi all,

I spent the past few hours reading about this camera. After looking over the FAQ, the only sellers listed are on ebay and in China. Are there any Non-ebay sources for this camera? I normally love ebay, but the reason I'm asking is because I'd like to use it this weekend for an event and shipping from China would take too long (unless there's a seller that is responsive and willing to ship express airmail). I looked over amazon and other websites - they all seem to sell older versions, not the #11. I'm willing to pay a bit more to get it here in time.

Thanks for this wonderful resource guys!
I got one on Amazon from BlueMall
email 74hxgzmk9vm9mn8@marketplace.amazon.com
$19 total incl shipping - about 1 wk by USPS
The case is right, its mode-less at 1180 so I'm pretty sure it's the #11, but makes .AVI files Stills are 1280 x 1024. If I'm wrong, someone pls correct me,
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Joined Mar 2011
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As far as I've read, that's a fake. It's actually up-scaled 720x480 and does not have an HD sensor. The true #11s have an actual HD sensor and record 1280x720 H264 encoded MOV files, not AVI.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 01:32 AM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jem3 View Post
I got one on Amazon from BlueMall
email 74hxgzmk9vm9mn8@marketplace.amazon.com
$19 total incl shipping - about 1 wk by USPS
The case is right, its mode-less at 1180 so I'm pretty sure it's the #11, but makes .AVI files Stills are 1280 x 1024. If I'm wrong, someone pls correct me,
You are wrong... it's NOT the Real (#11) HD Key Cam.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 02:55 AM
shoty
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Joined Aug 2011
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How do you guys secure your 0.67x or fisheye lenses on to the camera? I clued the metal ring to a tictac-box and push my #11 inside. The lenses are then secured by a small rubber band but that prevents only loosing them not from comming of the ring when i bump over an obstacle.

I need a way to secure them somehow without clueing them permantly to the camera so i can change the lenses. Any Ideas?
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 03:23 AM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
It should work, but it's the same capacity as the stock battery, so the record time won't be any longer. It MAY last longer being a flight battery with 12C rating, but the price is very high for just a single cell. I think you can get better prices for a larger cell if you want (at least here I can).

<EDIT> In re-reading, maybe you meant twice the recording time with this battery wired in parallel with the stock battery? That I would say is about right, but it should not be connected to the car charger since it does not have the voltage protection circuit board (Guessing here... no pic of the battery in the link <EDIT>
Oops , thanks Tom. I thought the stock battery was 120mA. As you say no duration gain from that. I'll look for another.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 07:48 AM
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United States, CO, Parker
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
How do you guys secure your 0.67x or fisheye lenses on to the camera? I clued the metal ring to a tictac-box and push my #11 inside. The lenses are then secured by a small rubber band but that prevents only loosing them not from comming of the ring when i bump over an obstacle.

I need a way to secure them somehow without clueing them permantly to the camera so i can change the lenses. Any Ideas?
I need to find a better way to do that myself. I got one of those lenses for my last #11 and it only lasted about a week. I glued one of the metal rings directly to the camera, and because the magnet didn't hold it very lightly, I tried creating a tether for the lens out of the little cord for the lens cap--cutting the string at one end to make it straight instead of a loop, and gluing that end to the lens while the little key ring went on the camera. It didn't work. First crash and the lens got flung off and lost in the tundra of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Just ordered another one of these lenses to go with the new #11 that's on its way (my last one broke in a crash about a week after the lens got lost). Maybe I'll figure out a better way to secure it this time. Currently I'm just thinking glue the lens on the camera directly and forgot the magnet.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 08:36 AM
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Southwest England
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Hi again Tom,

this looks like a good replacement http://robosavvy.com/store/product_i...roducts_id/315

or here http://www.sparkfun.com/products/341

850 mA.

Dimensions: 0.23x1.16x2.0" (5.84x29.5x51mm)

Weight: 18.5g (0.65oz)

Still small enough to fix outside underneath the camera.

The only problem may be it's 'Battery includes built-in protection against over voltage, over current, and minimum voltage.'

I guess I'd have to open it up at the end, remove that circuit and substitute the one from the camera. Or I guess maybe try it direct, ie bypass the camera protection circuit and see if the built in one does the same job? Bit risky. The removal of the cameras circuit probably the best idea?

What do you think please?
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 08:38 AM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prelator View Post
I need to find a better way to do that myself. I got one of those lenses for my last #11 and it only lasted about a week. I glued one of the metal rings directly to the camera, and because the magnet didn't hold it very lightly, I tried creating a tether for the lens out of the little cord for the lens cap--cutting the string at one end to make it straight instead of a loop, and gluing that end to the lens while the little key ring went on the camera. It didn't work. First crash and the lens got flung off and lost in the tundra of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Just ordered another one of these lenses to go with the new #11 that's on its way (my last one broke in a crash about a week after the lens got lost). Maybe I'll figure out a better way to secure it this time. Currently I'm just thinking glue the lens on the camera directly and forgot the magnet.
I pare away the area around the camera lense with a scalpel so that the ring sits well and then glue the ring. To secure the lense I also use the small lanyard supplied, but attach it to a very small cable tie that is glued around the lense ring. Seems quite secure though I haven't tried crashing with one on!
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 10:25 AM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
Hi again Tom,

this looks like a good replacement http://robosavvy.com/store/product_i...roducts_id/315

or here http://www.sparkfun.com/products/341

850 mA.

Dimensions: 0.23x1.16x2.0" (5.84x29.5x51mm)

Weight: 18.5g (0.65oz)

Still small enough to fix outside underneath the camera.

The only problem may be it's 'Battery includes built-in protection against over voltage, over current, and minimum voltage.'

I guess I'd have to open it up at the end, remove that circuit and substitute the one from the camera. Or I guess maybe try it direct, ie bypass the camera protection circuit and see if the built in one does the same job? Bit risky. The removal of the cameras circuit probably the best idea?

What do you think please?
Based on the spec sheet, these cells appear to have similar voltage protection circuits built in, just like the stock cell in the camera. So it should be possible to use them as a direct replacement, or even connect them in parallel with the internal cell and function as one during normal camera use, both charging and discharging, including with the car charger. The one precaution would be to first connect them with close to the same voltage on each cell (e.g. within 0.1 volts of each other.) If you have a dedicated Lipo battery charger, you could charge the new cell on it, then charge the camer's internal cell with it's built in charge circuit to get them to a similar voltage state. Once connected in parallel, they will both reach the same voltage state and remain there.

You could also, for less cost, just get a bare single cell like one of these (smaller and larger cells are available, too), and desolder the protection circuit board from a stock battery and reconnect to the new cell as you said, with the additional precaution of assuring you have the polarity correct when you solder on the new battery, and that you don't accidentally create a solder bridge from the tab solder pad to an adjacent circuit pad. The board is quite small and components on the circuit board are quite close to the battery solder pads, but with a sharp tipped low wattage soldering iron and a sharp eye, it can be done (I've done it). Then, of course, tape over both sides of the circuit board before you fold the tabs back in place so that nothing can short out!
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 11:35 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Based on the spec sheet, these cells appear to have similar voltage protection circuits built in, just like the stock cell in the camera. So it should be possible to use them as a direct replacement, or even connect them in parallel with the internal cell and function as one during normal camera use, both charging and discharging, including with the car charger. The one precaution would be to first connect them with close to the same voltage on each cell (e.g. within 0.1 volts of each other.) If you have a dedicated Lipo battery charger, you could charge the new cell on it, then charge the camer's internal cell with it's built in charge circuit to get them to a similar voltage state. Once connected in parallel, they will both reach the same voltage state and remain there.

You could also, for less cost, just get a bare single cell like one of these (smaller and larger cells are available, too), and desolder the protection circuit board from a stock battery and reconnect to the new cell as you said, with the additional precaution of assuring you have the polarity correct when you solder on the new battery, and that you don't accidentally create a solder bridge from the tab solder pad to an adjacent circuit pad. The board is quite small and components on the circuit board are quite close to the battery solder pads, but with a sharp tipped low wattage soldering iron and a sharp eye, it can be done (I've done it). Then, of course, tape over both sides of the circuit board before you fold the tabs back in place so that nothing can short out!
I did some flying this weekend. Sunday I went out a little early for thermal flying (about 10:30) and flew around in dead air for nearly an hour. At around 11:30 things began to heat up and I ended up with a couple of nice long duration thermal flights with some impressive rates of climb.

Unfortunately, the batteries on my jumbos died right when the action started.
I really need to set up a remote battery to feed these two cams for long periods.

This idea is most likely the one I will go with: connecting the two cams to a large 1c battery carried under the canopy, with the bpc from a cam soldered in, a fuse and a switch near the battery.

Think I will order the parts this weekend. I will need the equivalent of heavy duty servo leads, the right lipo(s) and a 1c charge adapter board for my charge unit.

I would like to overkill it to run 2 cams for at least 4 hours. Is there a particular 1c battery that you would recommend for running 2 cams for 4 hours? I calculate that to be 4000ma capacity needed because I will disable the 500 ma batteries on the jumbos to avoid any issues with differing voltages from multiple batteries.

Or would you recommend 2 separate 1c batteries of 2000 ma each?

A specific battery make and model would be appreciated since there are so many and I trust your expertise on this.

Thanks for any assistance you might offer.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 11:39 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
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Joined Jan 2011
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I'll bet this has been asked, but would it be possible to rig a remote switch to turn on/off the cameras and begin filming, by servo or direct connection to the receiver? That would really be cool.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Based on the spec sheet, these cells appear to have similar voltage protection circuits built in, just like the stock cell in the camera. So it should be possible to use them as a direct replacement, or even connect them in parallel with the internal cell and function as one during normal camera use, both charging and discharging, including with the car charger. The one precaution would be to first connect them with close to the same voltage on each cell (e.g. within 0.1 volts of each other.) If you have a dedicated Lipo battery charger, you could charge the new cell on it, then charge the camer's internal cell with it's built in charge circuit to get them to a similar voltage state. Once connected in parallel, they will both reach the same voltage state and remain there.

You could also, for less cost, just get a bare single cell like one of these (smaller and larger cells are available, too), and desolder the protection circuit board from a stock battery and reconnect to the new cell as you said, with the additional precaution of assuring you have the polarity correct when you solder on the new battery, and that you don't accidentally create a solder bridge from the tab solder pad to an adjacent circuit pad. The board is quite small and components on the circuit board are quite close to the battery solder pads, but with a sharp tipped low wattage soldering iron and a sharp eye, it can be done (I've done it). Then, of course, tape over both sides of the circuit board before you fold the tabs back in place so that nothing can short out!
Thanks for the HK link Tom. I have been searching and Googling but didn't come up with a simple cell. I prefer that solution, and I think my soldering skills are pretty good too! Ordered. My first time order from Hk. I'll let you know how I get on with it.
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Last edited by bobflyman; Aug 24, 2011 at 01:53 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2011, 01:14 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I did some flying this weekend. Sunday I went out a little early for thermal flying (about 10:30) and flew around in dead air for nearly an hour. At around 11:30 things began to heat up and I ended up with a couple of nice long duration thermal flights with some impressive rates of climb.

Unfortunately, the batteries on my jumbos died right when the action started.
I really need to set up a remote battery to feed these two cams for long periods.

This idea is most likely the one I will go with: connecting the two cams to a large 1c battery carried under the canopy, with the bpc from a cam soldered in, a fuse and a switch near the battery.

Think I will order the parts this weekend. I will need the equivalent of heavy duty servo leads, the right lipo(s) and a 1c charge adapter board for my charge unit.

I would like to overkill it to run 2 cams for at least 4 hours. Is there a particular 1c battery that you would recommend for running 2 cams for 4 hours? I calculate that to be 4000ma capacity needed because I will disable the 500 ma batteries on the jumbos to avoid any issues with differing voltages from multiple batteries.

Or would you recommend 2 separate 1c batteries of 2000 ma each?

A specific battery make and model would be appreciated since there are so many and I trust your expertise on this.

Thanks for any assistance you might offer.
One battery feeding both cameras through a heavy duty servo “Y” connector would be the simplest. The Jumbo cameras get at least 90 min. of recording with one 500 mAh battery, so a 1000 mAH lipo would drive two for the same length of time. So if you need 4 hours (240 minutes) of recording time, you would need at least a 2670 mAH lipo (240 / 90 = 2.67 * 1000 mAH) to drive two cameras for 4 hours.

The C rating is not important. Any cell that large will be easily capable of powering the two cameras, each of which only draws about the same current when recording as a medium sized servo. A higher C-rated battery will still only provide the current the camera requires. Also, you can’t find 1C rated lipos... most that size will be at least 20C in todays market... some much more, but that will not hurt anything... in fact it will help since the voltage will be a tiny bit higher under load, and any decent lipo charger will not have any problem with charging them at too high of a rate.

So ANY make of single cell lipo of 2670 mAH rating or larger will meet your needs. I’d get the least expensive one I could find. Hobby King doesn’t sell single lipo cells that large, though. I don't buy single cells, so don't know of any sources. The next easiest solution would be to get a 2700 mAh (or larger) 2S lipo, break the pack down into two separate cells, and use one with the other a spare. For a little less cost, buy any 1500 mAh 2S lipo, break it down into separate cells, and reconnect them in parallel to give the equivalent of a single 3000 mAh 1S lipo.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I'll bet this has been asked, but would it be possible to rig a remote switch to turn on/off the cameras and begin filming, by servo or direct connection to the receiver? That would really be cool.
If you first turned the camera power button on manually, then it could be done with a servo pushing the shutter button on/off, or an electronic switch connected to the two proper locations on the shutter button pins to emulate the shutter button contact closure. I don't know which two pins that is... maybe some one has tested for this? If so, post your findings.

Personally, with the long recording times compare to my flight times, I'd find it easier to just turn on the camera and start recording prior to take off, then edit out the portions I didn't want afterwards. You can't tell what you are recording when the plane is flying, so you might miss what you wanted to capture by turning it on/off from the ground.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 02:04 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Are you saying that American web stores don't require that you return defective merchandise to get a replacement? Hardly! Just about every vendor requires warranty returns to be sent at your expense... it's a rare one that doesn't. This is standard practice here in the U.S.!
No, I expect to have to return it. I just don't expect that to be at my expense in the end. If they ship me a defective item they should replace the item with a working one and also refund to me the return costs I paid.

I was an eBay seller for quite some time and if an item did not meet the working conditions in my description and it was returned to me, I paid for that. It was a hit on me that it did not work, not simple bad luck on the part of the buyer...

Hobby King is a good example of the outrageous differences that exist. I paid $1.50 for a motor shaft. Then sent me another shaft, the wrong one. When I sent them a photo of what I had received, they said it was the wrong shaft, one for an obsolete item, and that if I returned it to them, they would replace it.

It would have cost me $8.50 to return the shaft. I asked them to refund $8.50 into my PayPal account and they would not do it. I asked them to give me a $8.50 credit towards merchandise, they would not do it. I asked them to send a replacement shaft without my returning the old one, they would not do it. I threw the wrong shaft away and have not spent one red cent at Hobby King since.

What is your concept for good merchandising? Give them some money and take what you get? A lottery? Win a camera that may work? $40 a chance!

Jack
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
No, I expect to have to return it. I just don't expect that to be at my expense in the end. If they ship me a defective item they should replace the item with a working one and also refund to me the return costs I paid.

I was an eBay seller for quite some time and if an item did not meet the working conditions in my description and it was returned to me, I paid for that. It was a hit on me that it did not work, not simple bad luck on the part of the buyer...

Hobby King is a good example of the outrageous differences that exist. I paid $1.50 for a motor shaft. Then sent me another shaft, the wrong one. When I sent them a photo of what I had received, they said it was the wrong shaft, one for an obsolete item, and that if I returned it to them, they would replace it.

It would have cost me $8.50 to return the shaft. I asked them to refund $8.50 into my PayPal account and they would not do it. I asked them to give me a $8.50 credit towards merchandise, they would not do it. I asked them to send a replacement shaft without my returning the old one, they would not do it. I threw the wrong shaft away and have not spent one red cent at Hobby King since.

p.s. Your HK experience was unfortunate, and not a fair situation (I'd have lodged a PayPal dispute on that one since they did not send or mis-represented what you ordered). The Camera eBay sellers will go out of there way to get a fair resolution for everyone, but I don't think fair in this case means paying for the cameras return from countries whose mail system charges prices that can almost pay for a new camera. I sent one back from the U.S. by international airmail for about $4... not a big deal and not worth hassling the seller about.

p.s. Your HK experience was definitely a different story when you weren't even sent what you ordered or the ad didn't reflect the actual product. You should have filed a dispute with PayPal as a minimum to get a refund or credit. The eBay sellers of this camera do not treat buyers like that and go out of their way for a reasonable resolution, but what is reasonable (for both sides of the problem) is obviously a subjective thing.

p.s. your HK experience was a bit different, and you should have initiated a dispute via PayPal since they did not even send you what you ordered. The eBay seller of these camera try to get a reasonable resolution to any disputes. It's subjective as to what is reasonable, though.

What is your concept for good merchandising? Give them some money and take what you get? A lottery? Win a camera that may work? $40 a chance!

Jack
I expect to get a faulty item replace, but my point was that you were the exception as an ebay seller. Buy just about anything from an on line U.S. store, and try to get a faulty item returned at no cost to you. Most stores will not do that, so it has nothing to do with American vs China sellers. Is that fair to the buyer. Probably doesn't seem like it. Is it common business practice... yes, it is! Even things bought locally that might be faulty, when you take it back to the store for a replacement, do you demand that they pay for your car expenses? If so, you are in the minority. Same thing.

and think about the times a buyer doesn't bother to read the instructions, or can't figure out to make something work, and wants to return the item at the sellers expense because "it doesn't work", when the item is in perfect working order. Even with this simple camera, look at the questions new users post here, not even taking the time to read the FAQ which has the questions AND answer links. If those are all sent back at the sellers expense when there is nothing wrong, the cost of the camera will have to go up for the rest because he shipped it for "free" (built into the original cost, of course), then has to pay your return shipping, which from some countries cost a major portion of the original price (not the sellers fault), then has to ship another one back to the buyer. It's just not practical to do this and keep the camera price low.

It is my understanding from the developer that all the eBay sellers are supposed to confirm the cameras function before shipping. Not sure what they do, maybe just watch the LEDs, to confirm it goes into video mode. I don't think it's practical for a seller to shoot actual video and play it back on every camera they sell while still keeping their price and shipping time low.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 02:39 PM
shoty
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Great idea, jackerbes tell me your ebay store and i will buy each and every item you offer. Really everything and then i will make them all unusable and say it was delivered faulty and send them back to you and you better pay back my shipping cost...

Sounds crazy but that is what all customers do in some way when they get the opportunity to. Request spare parts for free, replacements without sending the original item back and so on and because of that habit most reseller dont offer this possibility anymore except maybe the big companys who already calculated the loss in revenue in their prices for th single items.

For a small company or say a one man shop on the internet this can really break you if you get screwed over by customers when all you wanted is to provide a good service.

I guess you spend already hundreds of dollars for your hobby and everything went fine but $1.50 was way over the line so you dont use a certain shop anymore....
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Maryland, USA
Joined Aug 2010
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Help

Can someone tell me why I get the colored flashes on this video. #11 camera and converted using Window Movie Maker. I've tried two different sd cards and get the same results. Don't get the flashes on a #8 camera. Thanks for any help


http://www.youtube.com/user/dcallawa.../0/8cxCyZp-AJI
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 07:06 PM
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Got my camera yesterday. Took some test video tonight of my two shelties. Going to mount this under my Blade CX2. I tested that yesterday and it lifts off but I crashed the CX2 into the coffee table and snapped off a blade. Had to order more. Anyways here is the video.

808 #11 keychain 720P camera test (0 min 14 sec)


Here is a pic of Penny I took with the picture feature..
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 07:30 PM
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S.E.Michigan
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Knothead.... I had similar issues on 2 of three laptops when I viewed using windows media player. When I viewed using quicktime media player it was perfect. Codecs I think was my issue. I just use quicktime and didnt mess with it.

P
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
I think binaryclock meant that you should select 720P as the display format in YouTube (but actually, his link defaults to that because of the hd=1 spec in the URL). But one thing I've never understood about YouTube's 720P and 1080P formats is that I can't find any way to get the viewer to actually show the video in the native size. It seems the only choices are 853x480 for the default page or full screen (which is an image-degrading enlargement for 720P). Has anyone figured that out?
Thank you Roger. I will not ask anymore question to upset Frank or his FAQs.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If you first turned the camera power button on manually, then it could be done with a servo pushing the shutter button on/off, or an electronic switch connected to the two proper locations on the shutter button pins to emulate the shutter button contact closure. I don't know which two pins that is... maybe some one has tested for this? If so, post your findings.

Personally, with the long recording times compare to my flight times, I'd find it easier to just turn on the camera and start recording prior to take off, then edit out the portions I didn't want afterwards. You can't tell what you are recording when the plane is flying, so you might miss what you wanted to capture by turning it on/off from the ground.
Guess it's an issue peculiar to thermal soaring. Ya never know when you will get a really spectacular flight. Could be at the end of a 2 hour flying session.

Yes, I'd really like to know how to patch a remote shutter switch into the circuit for the jumbo cam if anyone knows how. I presume the camera will "idle" with the power on for a good while before actuating the "shutter" button.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 10:46 PM
eat, sleep, FLY FLY FLY
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Charlottesville, VA
Joined Jun 2005
976 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoty View Post
How do you guys secure your 0.67x or fisheye lenses on to the camera? I clued the metal ring to a tictac-box and push my #11 inside. The lenses are then secured by a small rubber band but that prevents only loosing them not from comming of the ring when i bump over an obstacle.

I need a way to secure them somehow without clueing them permantly to the camera so i can change the lenses. Any Ideas?
I hot glued the ring to the case with hot glue the magnet is pretty strong, works well but a crash would surly knock it off, I also found vibration would loosen the 2 sections that screw together so I put a little piece of teflon tape in between them.
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Plane dude View Post
Thank you Roger. I will not ask anymore question to upset Frank or his FAQs.
I'm not upset... just didn't understand what exactly you were asking. It sounded to me you were asking how to put the camera into 720p mode (which, of course, is the only video mode it has unless webcam mode is used).
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Old Aug 24, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Guess it's an issue peculiar to thermal soaring. Ya never know when you will get a really spectacular flight. Could be at the end of a 2 hour flying session.

Yes, I'd really like to know how to patch a remote shutter switch into the circuit for the jumbo cam if anyone knows how. I presume the camera will "idle" with the power on for a good while before actuating the "shutter" button.
The #11 will turn itself off after a minute or so of being powered on if not put into video mode or not shooting photos.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 25, 2011 at 10:25 AM. Reason: clarification
Old Aug 25, 2011, 01:09 AM
shoty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.frankenjet View Post
I hot glued the ring to the case with hot glue the magnet is pretty strong, works well but a crash would surly knock it off, I also found vibration would loosen the 2 sections that screw together so I put a little piece of teflon tape in between them.
Actually the magnet is pretty weak if you bump you camera from the side the lense will fall off easily. I ordered a new magnet 12mmx1.5mm with a 9mm hole. Description says it is an N45 with up to 1.5kg magnetization. Will see how this turns out. If its not helping i guess i need to build a little case for the lense to secure it properly
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 01:28 AM
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoty View Post
Actually the magnet is pretty weak if you bump you camera from the side the lense will fall off easily. I ordered a new magnet 12mmx1.5mm with a 9mm hole. Description says it is an N45 with up to 1.5kg magnetization. Will see how this turns out. If its not helping i guess i need to build a little case for the lense to secure it properly
If you are using the supplied adapter ring, it does not stick well. Using tin alloy from some canned food, if you are able to diy a ring which has slightly broader circumference border, you will be surprise that the lens magnet can grip it firm.
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 01:38 AM
shoty
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Joined Aug 2011
11 Posts
Never thougt about changing the ring...great tip i will try that one out right now.

edit: Wow this sure makes a difference, thanks for the help
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Last edited by shoty; Aug 25, 2011 at 01:45 AM.
Old Aug 25, 2011, 04:18 AM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
327 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Guess it's an issue peculiar to thermal soaring. Ya never know when you will get a really spectacular flight. Could be at the end of a 2 hour flying session.

Yes, I'd really like to know how to patch a remote shutter switch into the circuit for the jumbo cam if anyone knows how. I presume the camera will "idle" with the power on for a good while before actuating the "shutter" button.
I wired a remote shutter release on the 3# type camera for a time lapse project. It can be done but is a very small solder job. There is a pic of the contacts on my link. http://www.chucklohr.com/808/#TimeLapseRelayMod

I inadvertently destroyed one mike (the heat of the solder iron?) when soldering the contact. I'm not sure if the mike is in the same place on the 11#. Fortunately I managed to replace the mike with one from a dead camera. Also a very fiddly solder job.

In my case the shutter was fired by a relay switching on/off. For video switch on you need a longer press of course. The biggest problem is the fact that the cam switches off after a period. 30 secs? So you need to fire two contacts. A short press of the on/off button to turn on and then the shutter release. Bods with more knowledge than me have done it (for time lapse) using programmable pics. But I don't think it would be easy for remote operation in a model?

The biggest pr
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 04:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Guess it's an issue peculiar to thermal soaring. Ya never know when you will get a really spectacular flight. Could be at the end of a 2 hour flying session.

Yes, I'd really like to know how to patch a remote shutter switch into the circuit for the jumbo cam if anyone knows how. I presume the camera will "idle" with the power on for a good while before actuating the "shutter" button.
I wired a remote shutter release on the 3# type camera for a time lapse project. It can be done but is a very small solder job. There is a pic of the contacts on my link. http://www.chucklohr.com/808/#TimeLapseRelayMod

In my case the shutter was fired by a relay switching on/off. The biggest problem is the fact that the cam switches off after a period. 30 secs? So you need to fire two contacts. A short press of the on/off button to turn on and then another switch to fire the shutter release. Bods with more knowledge than me have done it (for time lapse) using two outputs from programmable pics. But I don't think it would be easy for remote operation in a model?

I got around the problem for my time lapse by switching the shutter at a 20 sec interval so the camera never shut itself down.
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspinner20 View Post
Knothead.... I had similar issues on 2 of three laptops when I viewed using windows media player. When I viewed using quicktime media player it was perfect. Codecs I think was my issue. I just use quicktime and didnt mess with it.

P
Thanks wheelspinner20
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 12:23 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I wired a remote shutter release on the 3# type camera for a time lapse project. It can be done but is a very small solder job. There is a pic of the contacts on my link. http://www.chucklohr.com/808/#TimeLapseRelayMod

In my case the shutter was fired by a relay switching on/off. The biggest problem is the fact that the cam switches off after a period. 30 secs? So you need to fire two contacts. A short press of the on/off button to turn on and then another switch to fire the shutter release. Bods with more knowledge than me have done it (for time lapse) using two outputs from programmable pics. But I don't think it would be easy for remote operation in a model?

I got around the problem for my time lapse by switching the shutter at a 20 sec interval so the camera never shut itself down.
My challenge will be to modify the camera so that when power is applied from the remote battery it will turn on and begin filming. That way a simple switch at the remote battery will begin filming for both cameras.
I'll have to order a couple extra cameras to experiment with. I have an electronics guru who may be able to help. I'll surely let folks know if it works.
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 04:30 PM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
My challenge will be to modify the camera so that when power is applied from the remote battery it will turn on and begin filming. That way a simple switch at the remote battery will begin filming for both cameras.
I'll have to order a couple extra cameras to experiment with. I have an electronics guru who may be able to help. I'll surely let folks know if it works.
It wouldn't be too hard to use a servo as a mechanical actuator on the button that is called the "shutter" button (the most forward one). Once the camera is on (steady yellow LED) each momentary push of the shutter button toggles the camera from not recording (LED on) to recording (LED off) and then back (LED on). It stays in that mode until it is not recording and the Power/Mode button is pressed.

A long press of the Power/Mode button will also shut the power off even when it is in the recording mode.

A spring loaded mechanical interface between the servo arm and switch would absorb the extra servo travel and, at the same time, put enough pressure on the switch.

Jack
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 08:45 AM
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It's sad but... I'm pretty sure I've killed my (first) #11 :-(

Yesterday, I tried to leave the camera recording, with an external power source attached to usb. The power source I used was this USB charger

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aa-aaa-...usb-charger-67

which has an USB output port. I checked the voltage and it was supplying 4.8V. The charger was disconnected to its power source, thus, these 4.8V were coming from the 4xAA eneloops solely.

My intention was just check how long the camera could record with such power source. After a couple of hours, I noted the camera was warm. The recorded file was just a completely black movie. Thus, I tried to disconnect the power source, turned it on again, yellow led come up and.... pushing the shutter button does not make the camera start recording again. Only a solid yellow led which does not blink anymore.

well... one more gadget to my "electronic cemetery"...

Tom, thanks for your answer in my last post!
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Last edited by rnelias; Aug 26, 2011 at 08:52 AM.
Old Aug 26, 2011, 08:55 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Did you try a reset on it? Through the small hole in the side with a paper clip? Just a short, soft, movement will be felt. It does not take much pressure at all.

Jack
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
Did you try a reset on it? Through the small hole in the side with a paper clip? Just a short, soft, movement will be felt. It does not take much pressure at all.

Jack
Sure Jack! I tried to reset at least a hundred of times

Now I'm curious to know what have burned the camera...

I checked the voltage. It was bellow 5v...
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 10:01 AM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnelias View Post
It's sad but... I'm pretty sure I've killed my (first) #11 :-(

Yesterday, I tried to leave the camera recording, with an external power source attached to usb. The power source I used was this USB charger

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/aa-aaa-...usb-charger-67

which has an USB output port. I checked the voltage and it was supplying 4.8V. The charger was disconnected to its power source, thus, these 4.8V were coming from the 4xAA eneloops solely.

My intention was just check how long the camera could record with such power source. After a couple of hours, I noted the camera was warm. The recorded file was just a completely black movie. Thus, I tried to disconnect the power source, turned it on again, yellow led come up and.... pushing the shutter button does not make the camera start recording again. Only a solid yellow led which does not blink anymore.

well... one more gadget to my "electronic cemetery"...

Tom, thanks for your answer in my last post!
I would not declare the camera as toast just yet. Did you have the "Special" USB cable that comes with the camer car charger on that external power source? If not, it will not power the camea while it records UNLESS you first turn on the camera and start a recording from it's internal battery. And even then the camera will only record up until the first Stop/Save function kicks in... the camera does not continue recording after that with a generic USB power source as it would depending on which firmwware you have installed. There's more info on the external power in the FAQs. So if you had no video recording when you tried this, I'm assuming you did not start a recording before you plugged in the external power. If that's the case, you might only have been charging the battery during that time. I'm doing a lot of guessing here, but for starters, since you already tried the reset button, I'd suggest you re-flash in the (Rel2) firmware of your choice, and see what happens. It's unlikely the shutter button suddenly went bad. There's more things you can try to revive the camera in the FAQs.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 10:02 AM
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[deleted... duplicate]
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 10:55 AM
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JDIX42's Avatar
St. Louis
Joined Sep 2008
25 Posts
What micro memory cards are working best for these little cameras?
I was looking at cards on newegg.com and was just curious as to what you guys are using.
Thanks
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I would not declare the camera as toast just yet. Did you have the "Special" USB cable that comes with the camer car charger on that external power source? If not, it will not power the camea while it records UNLESS you first turn on the camera and start a recording from it's internal battery. And even then the camera will only record up until the first Stop/Save function kicks in... the camera does not continue recording after that with a generic USB power source as it would depending on which firmwware you have installed. There's more info on the external power in the FAQs. So if you had no video recording when you tried this, I'm assuming you did not start a recording before you plugged in the external power. If that's the case, you might only have been charging the battery during that time. I'm doing a lot of guessing here, but for starters, since you already tried the reset button, I'd suggest you re-flash in the (Rel2) firmware of your choice, and see what happens. It's unlikely the shutter button suddenly went bad. There's more things you can try to revive the camera in the FAQs.
Tom, but I did such test using the special usb cable which came with my camera. The camera started recording since it produced a .mov file. This file became a dark black image after 5 minutes and the camera kept recording for more 40 minutes. It seems the cmos sensor has died.

BTW, I already bought other #11 from eletoponline365 on eBay. Now he (or she, who knows?!) a "new" #11 announced as:

New HD Lens DVR Keyring Camera 1280x720 #11 H.264 HD818


New HD lens? 818? I'm confused... what are the differences?

From the specs, I only found:

5 in 1 function: video record, sound record, camera, webcam, driving recorder

Is this a new firmware or a completely different hardware #11.5?

Does anyone could explain what a "driving recorder" is? (sorry, I'm brazilian and doing my best with my poor English. Some expressions are hard to understand...)

Regards

Renato.
Rio de Janeiro/Brazil.
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Last edited by rnelias; Aug 26, 2011 at 01:40 PM.
Old Aug 26, 2011, 12:52 PM
I can fix it.
nageotte's Avatar
Cochranton, Pa.
Joined Nov 2005
1,333 Posts
Common failure

, yellow led come up and.... pushing the shutter button does not make the camera start recording again. Only a solid yellow led which does not blink anymore.

well... one more gadget to my "electronic cemetery"...

I know four cameras the have failed in that mode. I sent mine back to the dealer , but have not heard from him again. I only had mine for three outings. I am beginning to wonder if these are a lost cause.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rnelias View Post
Tom, but I did such test using the special usb cable which came with my camera. The camera started recording since it produced a .mov file. This file became a dark black image after 5 minutes and the camera kept recording for more 40 minutes. It seems the cmos sensor has died.

BTW, I already bought other #11 from eletoponline365 on eBay. Now he (or she, who knows?!) a "new" #11 announced as:

New HD Lens DVR Keyring Camera 1280x720 #11 H.264 HD818

New HD lens? 818? I'm confused... what are the differences?

From the specs, I only found:

5 in 1 function: video record, sound record, camera, webcam, driving recorder

Is this a new firmware or a completely different hardware #11.5?

Does anyone could explain what a "driving recorder" is? (sorry, I'm brazilian and doing my best with my poor English. Some expressions are hard to understand...)

Regards

Renato.
Rio de Janeiro/Brazil.
Try a few things with your camera. First save the file that goes blank after 5 min. Anaylzing the file can help diagnose some problems. You can try:

1. See if the file repair program licst in the FAQs has any effect on it.
2. Test the flash card with h2testw.exe utility to see if the memory space is corrupted or has errors.
3. Flash in new firmware.
4. see the FAQs linkk in post #3 for some button manipulations that have worked for some people.
5. Physially disconnect, then reconnect the battery. This requires cutting and or soldering one of the battery wires.

I don't know what the cheapest method of sending the camera to the vendor might be, but you should be able to get a free replacement if you can return the camera. Don't throw it away... I can always use some spare parts!

The "818" camera is the exact same one... some of the vendors has coined that term to differentiate the HD version of the old "808" key chain camera from the HD version. Firmware is probably the the latest Release 2 firmware, which is not different from the original firmware other than some video quality tweaks and different Close and Continue time periods.

The camera is often advertised as a "driving recorder" since some people use these on the auto dashboards to record any accidents, where they drive, etc.

In short, you should get a camera like the one you have, but maybe with the Rel 2 firmware (depends on whether or not you flashed in the new firmware on your old camera.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 26, 2011 at 02:38 PM.
Old Aug 26, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte View Post
, yellow led come up and.... pushing the shutter button does not make the camera start recording again. Only a solid yellow led which does not blink anymore.

well... one more gadget to my "electronic cemetery"...

I know four cameras the have failed in that mode. I sent mine back to the dealer , but have not heard from him again. I only had mine for three outings. I am beginning to wonder if these are a lost cause.
It can take 3-4 weeks to get back to the vendors sometimes. Send them an email and see if they received it.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JDIX42 View Post
What micro memory cards are working best for these little cameras?
I was looking at cards on newegg.com and was just curious as to what you guys are using.
Thanks
Name brand Class 4 or better cards, e.g. Transcend, Sandisk, Kingston, etc. all seem to work fine.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Name brand Class 4 or better cards, e.g. Transcend, Sandisk, Kingston, etc. all seem to work fine.
They are just micro SD cards correct?
thanks Jeff
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:14 PM
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Could I use the card from my rumor touch cell phone?
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
It might be worth the trouble to open the case and make sure that the buttons are not restrained or hampered by any flashing or seepage from the molding process that may be on the buttons or on the openings they work through.

As a warning, opening the case will probably require you to part or break a seal on the case and that might also mean that you can't return it.

I got the case open without breaking the seal by carefully sliding a razor blade (tape splicing variety) under the seal to separate it from the case. This only has to be done for half of the seal as the other half can be left attached to the other half of the case.

Beware though, as the seal is letraset-thin and will easily disintegrate!
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Believe me, this #11 sellers are one of the best, trusted ebay sellers !
They really always help when some trouble occur.
And maybe, they already have two offices now
Sorry but I have to disagree.

The htinter site doesn't respond to my emails.

The Eletop ebay shop take ages to respond to messages and keep asking me to wait for the item.

YMMV
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 07:47 PM
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I tried to upgrade the firmware on my new camera because i was having weird red colored glitches in the video. I copied the firmware to my sd card and put it into my camera. I attempted to turn on the camera, and now it's dead. Any solutions?
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 08:52 PM
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This has been brought up by a couple people before, but never a solid answer. Has anyone ever compared both the 13mm and 15mm fish eye lenses?

You find the 15mm one here
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15mm-de...eras-900139814

And the 13mm one can be found on ebay, or also dealextreme right here
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/fe-50-1...-cameras-15239

I used to think they were probably the same thing, and the discrepancy was only a typo, but after closer inspection, they do indeed seem different. They have different printing, and also a slightly different shaped base.

I've used the 15mm one before. It had a great FOV, but I never liked the way the distortion is "uneven". Hard to explain, say an object pans from one side of the frame to the other, it will stretch and contract and stretch and contract many more times than it should. Makes things almost appear wavy and liquid like. Almost as if the lens itself is wavy. Unlike typical fish eye lenses like the one on the gopro that still does distort, but does so smoothly and predictably. Just wondering if the 13mm one may not suffer from this problem.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JDIX42 View Post
They are just micro SD cards correct?
thanks Jeff
Yes.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by eckace1 View Post
Could I use the card from my rumor touch cell phone?
How can anyone reply with any certainty? You haven't told us what make of card you have and what the speed class is! And even then if it's got some bad memory cells, it still may not work properly. It would need to be tested ny H2testw, utility.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:19 PM
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I figured out that the glitching problem was caused by my computer opening the file in windows media player. When i opened the video file in quicktime, it was clear footage. So now i am left with a bricked camera after trying to do a firmware update that was not needed.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ttracer23 View Post
I tried to upgrade the firmware on my new camera because i was having weird red colored glitches in the video. I copied the firmware to my sd card and put it into my camera. I attempted to turn on the camera, and now it's dead. Any solutions?
Reflash in firmware and follow the instructions in the FAQs EXACTLY.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:28 PM
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I followed someone's guide on how to install the recover time firmware, and somehow i managed to get lucky and my camera is back to working. Thanks RC Groups!
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
How can anyone reply with any certainty? You haven't told us what make of card you have and what the speed class is! And even then if it's got some bad memory cells, it still may not work properly. It would need to be tested ny H2testw, utility.
Being new to all this I guess I should just stick it in and see if it records or not.

Don't even know how to test a card.

I did buy the key cam from the web site you suggested though Thanks

Pulled the card out of phone say sandisc 2gb
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Try a few things with your camera. First save the file that goes blank after 5 min. Anaylzing the file can help diagnose some problems. You can try:

1. See if the file repair program licst in the FAQs has any effect on it.
2. Test the flash card with h2testw.exe utility to see if the memory space is corrupted or has errors.
3. Flash in new firmware.
4. see the FAQs linkk in post #3 for some button manipulations that have worked for some people.
5. Physially disconnect, then reconnect the battery. This requires cutting and or soldering one of the battery wires.

I don't know what the cheapest method of sending the camera to the vendor might be, but you should be able to get a free replacement if you can return the camera. Don't throw it away... I can always use some spare parts!

The "818" camera is the exact same one... some of the vendors has coined that term to differentiate the HD version of the old "808" key chain camera from the HD version. Firmware is probably the the latest Release 2 firmware, which is not different from the original firmware other than some video quality tweaks and different Close and Continue time periods.

The camera is often advertised as a "driving recorder" since some people use these on the auto dashboards to record any accidents, where they drive, etc.

In short, you should get a camera like the one you have, but maybe with the Rel 2 firmware (depends on whether or not you flashed in the new firmware on your old camera.
Tom, you're a keychain's angel!

It's back alive \o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/

I've flashed the camera with the latest firmware listed in your post #3531 (Recover Time - 50 min: restores the date/time stamp with 50 min. S/S/C function) and it's working again (Y)
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 10:45 PM
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No recording or USB disk

My camera have been working perfect until yesterday.

Yesterday I cleaned the lens. I cleaned the lens and opened up the lens head, so that I could clean the cmos.

Later that day when I was turning on the camera, the yellow led came on (but without the single "start blink"). I try to click the "record button", but nothing happens (the yellow led still on).

I have tried to connect it to my computer's USB port, the "red charge led" works. When I click the ON button, the "yellow led" comes on, but computer will not load the USB disk.



Is there anything I can do? Could it be that somthing went wrong with the CMOS, or it is not connected properly?

The strange thing is that it worked for 1 hour earlier today, recording and connecting to the computer. I dont know what happend, but it just started working while I was clicking and adjusting the lens. But I had to take a look inside the the lens cap again, and its the same as before.

So I know that it could be possible to get it to work again, but how?
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eckace1 View Post
Being new to all this I guess I should just stick it in and see if it records or not.

Don't even know how to test a card.

I did buy the key cam from the web site you suggested though Thanks

Pulled the card out of phone say sandisc 2gb
Assuming you have a Windows PC, you can do a web search for "h2testw" utility program. Just download it and run it. Insert the memory card in a reader on your PC, then select that drive location when the program prompts you for the drive to test. Then start the scan. That's all there is to it. It will report if any memory errors are found, and also give the card sequential write speed.

Or, just format the your card and try it in the camera. The SDFormatter program utility is recommended for formatting SD cards, and you can download that program with a web search, too.

<EDIT> Is that maybe a "Sandisk" memory card rather than "sandisc"? If so, that's a top brand name if it's not counterfeit. But it may only be a Class 2 card, which may not give best results. There may be a mark on the card that shows it's rated speed, like "CL2". A Class 4 (minimum) card is recommended. Also, I think you'll find a 2GB card is going to be a bit limiting for HD video recording. Your card would fill up before the stock battery on the small #11 is depleted. <EDIT>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Aug 27, 2011 at 12:36 AM.
Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constell View Post
My camera have been working perfect until yesterday.

Yesterday I cleaned the lens. I cleaned the lens and opened up the lens head, so that I could clean the cmos.

Later that day when I was turning on the camera, the yellow led came on (but without the single "start blink"). I try to click the "record button", but nothing happens (the yellow led still on).

I have tried to connect it to my computer's USB port, the "red charge led" works. When I click the ON button, the "yellow led" comes on, but computer will not load the USB disk.

Is there anything I can do? Could it be that somthing went wrong with the CMOS, or it is not connected properly?

The strange thing is that it worked for 1 hour earlier today, recording and connecting to the computer. I dont know what happend, but it just started working while I was clicking and adjusting the lens. But I had to take a look inside the the lens cap again, and its the same as before.

So I know that it could be possible to get it to work again, but how?
For starters, do what the title of this thread suggests... read the FAQs in post #3. There's a number of things you can try to revive the camera.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ttracer23 View Post
I followed someone's guide on how to install the recover time firmware, and somehow i managed to get lucky and my camera is back to working. Thanks RC Groups!
The FAQs in post #3 here give all the information on this you need to know. Always check there first with a new question comes up.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
For starters, do what the title of this thread suggests... read the FAQs in post #3. There's a number of things you can try to revive the camera.
Thanks for reply

I have read through post #3, only thing I have not tried is unplugging battery and connecting again.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 01:29 AM
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Ok, for some reason it worked again. I tapped "On button" quick and at the same time pressed shutter button rapidly. Hmmmmm strange
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte View Post
, yellow led come up and.... pushing the shutter button does not make the camera start recording again. Only a solid yellow led which does not blink anymore.

well... one more gadget to my "electronic cemetery"...

I know four cameras the have failed in that mode. I sent mine back to the dealer , but have not heard from him again. I only had mine for three outings. I am beginning to wonder if these are a lost cause.
Let's hear - who was the dealer?

Kev
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 08:10 AM
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I have another question: does anyone know if its possible to remove the case and change the direction the actual camera points? Like, will the camera lens come off the circuitboard easily so you can reposition it?

What Id really like to do with my camera is stick it flat on the side of something like a car door and have it filming outwards, but currently it would stick out too much and be unstable, so Id like to convert it to a flat camera.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Did you read the post linked in the FAQs (Post#3) about recording time and external power? ALWAYS go to the FAQs first to get your questions answered. Most of your questions will be answered there. [] If you need 5 hours, the external USB pack would need to have an output rating of about 1700 mAH at 5V.
Tom, thanks for your answers. So relieved that I don't need to solder anything!

Just one question: I know very little about electronics. I get that mAH is how big the capacity of the battery is, but what does the voltage determine? Why are you recommending a 5V when some people on here have bought idfferent voltages?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Like Tom has already posted, please look at the FAQs (Post#3) - these are up-to-date. I don't want to repeat what he has already told you, but I have yet again revised the original post about external power to reflect the latest changes and tried to make things even clearer.[]
Thanks for all your info too, Isoprop
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 09:53 AM
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I have another question: does anyone know if it’s possible to remove the case and change the direction the actual camera points? Like, will the camera lens come off the circuitboard easily so you can reposition it?

I haven't taken one of these apart yet, though I have with the predecessor, the 3# type. Looking at the circuit board pics I'd say the attachment is much the same. Blob of glue and it's on a ribbon connector. It should be very easy to remove and shift it by 90 degs and glue/point through a new hole in case.

It's a very long thread now, but I think this was discussed somewhere?
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 10:04 AM
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Anyone know where to buy this holder:
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I have another question: does anyone know if it’s possible to remove the case and change the direction the actual camera points? Like, will the camera lens come off the circuitboard easily so you can reposition it?

I haven't taken one of these apart yet, though I have with the predecessor, the 3# type. Looking at the circuit board pics I'd say the attachment is much the same. Blob of glue and it's on a ribbon connector. It should be very easy to remove and shift it by 90 degs and glue/point through a new hole in case.

It's a very long thread now, but I think this was discussed somewhere?
It's possible to rotate the ribbon cable 90 deg., but the lens will not then fit in the camera. The bare circuit board (or lower half) could be secured to some other piece, but the lens.CMOS module MUST be secured to that piece as well (e.g. silicon glue). If it's left dangling on the ribbon cable, the resultingvideo will make the jello effect look like calm water! The circuit board should then be enclosed with heat shrink to protect the exposed components, or put in a totally different case (Radio Shack has some small plastic cases to hold DIY circuit boards, I think).
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby Ball View Post
...
Tom, thanks for your answers. So relieved that I don't need to solder anything!

Just one question: I know very little about electronics. I get that mAH is how big the capacity of the battery is, but what does the voltage determine? Why are you recommending a 5V when some people on here have bought idfferent voltages?
Think of electricity in terms of a garden hose. Voltage is analogous to water pressure, current is analogous to water flow, and resistance is analogous to the hose diameter. More pressure (voltage) can cause bad things to happen... more water flow (current) or it could burst the hose (breakdown of the circuit components)! The USB plug on the camera should have a standard 5V nominal on it. I don't know what references you are referring to about higher voltage, unless it was just a fraction higher, like 5.2V.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Let's hear - who was the dealer?

Kev
Before assuming too much, let's get the whole story, like was there any communication with the dealer before the camera was returned, how long ago was the camera sent and from where, and has there been any attempt to contact the seller since then.

Delays can occur in the China postal system, and during their national holidays. All of the eBay sellers have given good service in my view, all things considered.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Ok, for some reason it worked again. I tapped "On button" quick and at the same time pressed shutter button rapidly. Hmmmmm strange
Problems can sometimes occur due to pressing the buttons for too long, not long enough, pressing again and again, etc. Holding down the shutter button while pressing the power button briefly can put the camera in webcam mode. Not sure exactly what you might have to to get in it the funky state, or recover it back, but it worked!

The basic button pressing functions and sequence is explained in the FAQs in a better english context than the printed instruction sheet.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Tom F

Thanks for the help. I will just buy a micro card sandick 4 or better in the 8 gig range looks like the way to go
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I have another question: does anyone know if its possible to remove the case and change the direction the actual camera points? Like, will the camera lens come off the circuitboard easily so you can reposition it?

I haven't taken one of these apart yet, though I have with the predecessor, the 3# type. Looking at the circuit board pics I'd say the attachment is much the same. Blob of glue and it's on a ribbon connector. It should be very easy to remove and shift it by 90 degs and glue/point through a new hole in case.

It's a very long thread now, but I think this was discussed somewhere?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
It's possible to rotate the ribbon cable 90 deg., but the lens will not then fit in the camera. The bare circuit board (or lower half) could be secured to some other piece, but the lens.CMOS module MUST be secured to that piece as well (e.g. silicon glue). If it's left dangling on the ribbon cable, the resultingvideo will make the jello effect look like calm water! The circuit board should then be enclosed with heat shrink to protect the exposed components, or put in a totally different case (Radio Shack has some small plastic cases to hold DIY circuit boards, I think).
I've done this with two of my cameras (V1 and V3) and they work perfectly. The lens DOES fit, but it's a very tight fit! The lens may not be exactly rotated by 90 degrees because the cable is a wee bit short, but it's good enough for my purposes.

You should remove the battery before doing this - I didn't, because it was humid and I was careful. However, if you do this mod in winter (static electricity due to heating / dry air), you MUST disconnect the battery first.

It's a bit fiddly to get the lens positioned correctly so that the battery will fit when assembled. The most difficult part is drilling the hole for the lens in the EXACT correct position! But it IS possible to use the original casing and battery, although it's a VERY tight fit (for the battery)!

I put a piece of insulating tape under the lens holder just to be sure there wouldn't be any "shorts". Align the lens holder to the USB, and make sure that at least half of the USB casing is free (the more the better). Anything less, and the battery won't fit.

Use hot glue and make sure it's VERY hot and nicely melted and put a blob on a piece of cardboard etc. Now use a toothpick or similar to apply a small blop to fix the lens holder. DO NOT USE METALIC tools to apply the glue as this will almost certainly short the electronics! Repeat the gluing until the lens holder is well and truly glued to the circuit board components. Remember that the battery needs a lot of space, so keep the lower part glue-free.

Now cut a strip of 0.3mm copper or tin about 1cm max. wide. Make sure the metal is clean and shiny (use scouring pads/powder) and tightly wind it around the assembled camera to make a template. Cut off the excess metal so that the two ends overlap by about 5mm. Mark the join position exactly with a sharp tool. Remove the copper/tin strip. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers align the two ends and solder together using a wide-bit soldering iron and .5mm solder.
Clean up, and remove any resin using acetone or thinners. Place the template around the camera and place this on a piece of transparent plasitc. Trace the template onto the plastic. Cut the plastic to shape. Glue the plastic to the metal and wait 24 hours for the glue to set. Now, with the case open, you have the template, you can mark the EXACT position of the center of the lens. Put the template on top of the cover and drill the hole. It should be in the exact correct position!

If you don't have a soldering iron, it may be possible to join the two metal ends together using glue, but I haven't tried it.

I'm preparing an article for making a "button protection" casing out of copper which uses a similar method. I've been using the adapted cameras plus the special cases for a few weeks now without any problem. Unfortunately, I haven't yet had time to finish the article which I started almost 3 weeks ago. I'll post the link here when completed.

Oh yes, try not to finger the front of the lens - it can be quite difficult to get rid of those greasy marks!

And I can't resist posting my comment once again -> I wish the manufacturer would design a #11 GumPack!
Please don't follow up on this comment, it's already been discussed and it seems I'm the only one who want's a lens on the "side". Well, it looks as if there are now two of us...

<EDIT> I've included a picture of the position of the lens. If you place the lens any lower it will be all but impossible to close the case with the battery.
I also forgot to mention that you should cut off the original "lens fitting" pastic from the top casing.
Also, you can use super glue instead of normal glue, then you won't have to wait 24 hours for the glue to harden. - Just tried it, and it works.
Also be VERY careful not to break the left female fixing "lug" (near the battery, in front of the microphone, under the black wire in the picture) - I had to reinforce one of mine by making a duplicate copper female "lug" - very fiddly.</EDIT>

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Last edited by Isoprop; Aug 30, 2011 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Added picture and supplementary text
Old Aug 28, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I've done this with two of my cameras (V1 and V3) and they work perfectly. The lens DOES fit, but it's a very tight fit! The lens may not be exactly rotated by 90 degrees because the cable is a wee bit short, but it's good enough for my purposes.
...
Thanks for the clarification. I had just eye-balled it previously but never really tried it. I'd think maybe the Jumbo version with it's slightly larger/thicker case might work a little better for something like this?
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 12:14 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,293 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
And I can't resist posting my comment once again -> I wish the manufacturer would design a #11 GumPack!
Please don't follow up on this comment, it's already been discussed and it seems I'm the only one who want's a lens on the "side". Well, it looks as if there are now two of us...
While we're wishing, a lens in a small "turret" is probably not too far off. Ideally one which can be mounted far from the processing/battery unit and switched on/off via a spare radio channel.
That would draw a large market IMHO. I expect it will happen one of these days.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 01:47 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
3,958 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jumpysticks View Post
while we're wishing, a lens in a small "turret" is probably not too far off. Ideally one which can be mounted far from the processing/battery unit and switched on/off via a spare radio channel.
That would draw a large market imho. I expect it will happen one of these days.
spicam iv ?

m
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 01:56 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Portland
Joined Aug 2011
462 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You are wrong... it's NOT the Real (#11) HD Key Cam.
Hi Tom (and others)- Thanks for the info. Here is hard info on the Fake. The chip info using my eyeballs, still info using iPhoto, the video info using iStabilize. When iMovie loads the file, apparently it upscales.

Chips
EKEN 002
M0113560
103B

Samsung 141
K4S1616220-TC60
T7F209B3

On camera cable
EKEN 006 HD

Stills: 1280 x 1024
Video: 720 x 480 .AVI
tracks: 1 video, 1 sound
progressive scan
half the frames of a short (4 second) clip: duration 33 mS and the other half 67 mS.

Thats all I'll write about the Fake
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 04:53 PM
Registered User
Mexico
Joined Aug 2010
77 Posts
Hi all, lurking here while I read this thread. As usual, a TON of good info here!

Tom, in regards to returning things :

"I expect to get a faulty item replace, but my point was that you were the exception as an ebay seller. Buy just about anything from an on line U.S. store, and try to get a faulty item returned at no cost to you...."

I guess you haven't dealt with Horizon Hobby much. I just phoned them about a receiver which failed. After discussing the problem for a few minutes, the guy says "sounds like you need a new one". They shipped it, free, to me here in Mexico. In my opinion, they set a high standard for customer service!
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 08:52 PM
Registered User
United States, MI, Cedar Springs
Joined Jul 2011
124 Posts
Here is my first outdoor attempt with the 808 under my Blade CX2.

First Outdoor flight with 808 #11 720P HD camera on Blade CX2 (3 min 50 sec)


Had to attach the camera underneath the canopy so I had to take the video upside down and then flip it with Windows Movie Maker.
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Old Aug 28, 2011, 11:52 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
4 Posts
Mounted the cam on my scale rc crawler today.
http://vimeo.com/28280329
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 01:38 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlu View Post
Hi all, lurking here while I read this thread. As usual, a TON of good info here!

Tom, in regards to returning things :

"I expect to get a faulty item replace, but my point was that you were the exception as an ebay seller. Buy just about anything from an on line U.S. store, and try to get a faulty item returned at no cost to you...."

I guess you haven't dealt with Horizon Hobby much. I just phoned them about a receiver which failed. After discussing the problem for a few minutes, the guy says "sounds like you need a new one". They shipped it, free, to me here in Mexico. In my opinion, they set a high standard for customer service!
I've bought from them a number of times, but never had to replace anything. They must be another exception, and are looking for your repeat business. Or may look at your past purchase history before making that concession. But far and away, you don't get items replaced by most all retailers (not just web sellers) until you return the faulty item, especially if your frequent return business is not the norm.
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 11:39 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
1 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Anyone know where to buy this holder:
http://ped-products.com/index.php?di...category_id=70
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 12:22 PM
Registered User
United States, MI, Cedar Springs
Joined Jul 2011
124 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The waviness is cause by the camera vibrating. First step to minimize is to balance your prop and make sure your motor shaft is not bent. Then mount the camera in a way that it is held firmly to a portion of the plane that does not vibrate. Usually the plane fuselage is a good place. But the camera connection must be fairly rigid. I normally just put a piece of bubble wrap padding under the camera, then wrap with tape around the fuselage to secure it. Then find a throttle position during flight that results in the least amount of camera vibration.

The song sounds like it has been badly "messed up" during the re-encoding that takes place after you upload it. Or maybe that's what it's supposed to sound like? If you are doing post editing, you can also diminish or completely mute the video wind noise before uploading.
Any suggestions for a Blade CX2? I was using the supplied velcro but I think maybe Rubber bands would hold tighter? Here is video I just took with the supplied velcro. As you can see wavy city..

Wavy looking video from my 808 #11 720p HD keychain camera (1 min 16 sec)
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Old Aug 29, 2011, 12:24 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
NightRunner417's Avatar
USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
1,777 Posts
My latest spree of EasyStar mayhem... The HD video is of course from the 808HD #11 keycam.

Part I

EasyStar 8-23-11: Playground Alpha FPV Speed And Distance Records Part I, Flown By DragonLink! (9 min 25 sec)


and Part II

EasyStar 8-23-11: Playground Alpha FPV Speed And Distance Records Part II, Flown By DragonLink! (16 min 3 sec)


Enjoy!

Rick NR417
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Last edited by NightRunner417; Aug 29, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
Old Aug 29, 2011, 12:41 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakzie View Post
Any suggestions for a Blade CX2? I was using the supplied velcro but I think maybe Rubber bands would hold tighter? Here is video I just took with the supplied velcro. As you can see wavy city..
I don't fly helis, so have not tried to see what works best for those. The vibration on helis is much lower frequency and much larger amplitude, so what works on planes (or even other helis) does not necessarily work for you. You really need to get the rotors very well balanced for starters to have any chance for getting rid of the waviness with very light airframes.
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