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Old Jul 30, 2011, 01:31 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Tom,
I have been meaning to ask this but keep forgetting.

I have a 1300 ma stock lipo which came with the Radian Pro. It seems much heavier than 3 times the weight of the 500ma battery in the keycam. I expect that it has something to do with different chemistry needed for a high amp draw battery. So the question is, are there different types of lypo for different amp draw?
Yes, there are different ratings for different amp draw. PM being sent to you.
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 04:58 PM
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Out of 387 pages, someone must have some kind of information or experience about dropped/duplicate frames for this camera?

Short of sending it back - is there anything else I can try to sort out jerky video?

I've already posted all the information I can find on the video files, data rate, kind of camera etc. back in post #5570

thanks for your help with this...
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 05:43 PM
Tally Ho!
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The Netherlands
Joined Apr 2006
4,144 Posts
With the superlarge foamies coming out, the Go Pro would be very good...

But they should make a keychain which actually HAS HD.

KM
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Old Jul 30, 2011, 08:19 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paolo176342 View Post
Out of 387 pages, someone must have some kind of information or experience about dropped/duplicate frames for this camera?

Short of sending it back - is there anything else I can try to sort out jerky video?

I've already posted all the information I can find on the video files, data rate, kind of camera etc. back in post #5570

thanks for your help with this...
This camera does not drop frames in decent light (e.g. dawn to dusk daylight.) It will drop some frames in low indoor light, though. The data you provided does not prove it is dropping frames (the video data you posted is normal), nor does the card test tell me anything unless you can specify what test program you used (e.g. Crystal DiskMark) and/or if that write speed you posted is for sequential or random writes. If it's for sequential writes, the card is performing like a CL6 card rather than CL 10, but that is still likely to be plenty fast enough . If it's for random writes (the most important data), the card is very fast and not part of the problem.

Post one of your videos that plays jerky to sendspace.com (must be 300MB or less in size) so I can down load and analyze it. Alternatively, load your video into an editor like Avidemux or a player like VLC so you can step through the video frame by frame. If there are dropped frames, there will be NO visible pixel change in the displayed frame picture when you make a step. If there is ANY visible pixel change, there is no dropped frame in that space.

Your computer could be responsible for the jerky playback, too, if it is an older one with minimal memory, slow processor, mediocre video card, etc. etc.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 06:16 AM
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United Kingdom, Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If there are dropped frames, there will be NO visible pixel change in the displayed frame picture when you make a step. If there is ANY visible pixel change, there is no dropped frame in that space.
Thanks for the reply Tom.

That is exactly what is happening - duplicated frames i.e. no change between consecutive frames.

The video is in sunny conditions and the computer is plenty fast to play this back.

The term 'dropped frames' seems to be a bit misleading as, on the face of it, they are actually 'duplicated frames'...


Anyway - if no one else is having any real problems with dropped frames then I'll just send it back for a replacement.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Hi guys, I have a quick question that perhaps someone may be able to answer. I currently use an old #3 as a hat cam, I'd like to buy a #11 so I have improved video quality, but I worry that the wider angle lens will make my planes seem like little dots in the sky. I only use my camera as a hat cam, so, is there a version of the #11 without the wide angle lens? Any advice would be most appreciated.
regards
Andy
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:34 AM
Registered User
Colorado Mountains
Joined Aug 2010
352 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero Andy View Post
Hi guys, I have a quick question that perhaps someone may be able to answer. I currently use an old #3 as a hat cam, I'd like to buy a #11 so I have improved video quality, but I worry that the wider angle lens will make my planes seem like little dots in the sky. I only use my camera as a hat cam, so, is there a version of the #11 without the wide angle lens? Any advice would be most appreciated.
regards
Andy
Take a look at post #370. It's a thumbnail comparison of the #3 and the #11. Compare the tree on the horizon near the center. In my opinion, based on that image, your plane will actually be larger with the #11. YMMV
Robbie
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:41 AM
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Hi,

I recently received a keyfob #11 from htinter dot com. It took 10 days to arrive in the UK.

I took it out for a spin, attached to my dashboard and the resulting video looked promising. However, the next day, I did exactly the same, and this time the video had a horrible squashed/expanded effect every time there was vertical camera movement.

All subsequent tests show this effect which leads me to believe that after a couple of days light use, the camera is faulty!

The card I used checks out ok as a class 4 and I have tried a couple of different firmware versions. I have a class 6 card on it's way and also a jumbo #11 from eletop. When I get these I will carry out further tests..

In the meantime here is a clip in which you can clearly see the effect if you look at the trees and rooftops:

Image distortion issue with 808 #11 (0 min 43 sec)


Many thanks for this thread and all of the info contained within!
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Last edited by elshiftos; Jul 31, 2011 at 07:18 PM. Reason: spelling!
Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos View Post
Hi,

I recently received a keyfob #11 from htinter dot com. It took 10 days to arrive in the UK.

I took it out for a spin, attached to my dashboard and the resulting video looked promising. However, the next day, I did exactly the same, and this time the video had a horrible suqahes/expanded effect every time there was vertical camera movement.

All subsequent tests show this effect which leads me to believe that after a couple of days light use, the camera is faulty!

The card I used checks out ok as a class 4 and I have tried a couple of different firmware versions. I have a class 6 card on it's way and also a jumbo #11 from eletop. When I get these I will carry out further tests..

In the meantime here is a clip in which you can clearly see the effect if you look at the trees and rooftops:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhKt0YP3Mms

Many thanks for this thread and all of the info contained within!

I think some of these current cameras are junk. If you read the groups, one thing is apparent - a lot of people are having problems. Mine won't even turn on.

Cliff
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:45 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos View Post
Hi,

All subsequent tests show this effect which leads me to believe that after a couple of days light use, the camera is faulty!
Looks fine to me.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Looks fine to me.
I also took some footage from my bicycle, the squishing made the video unwatchable.

I've seen other car and bike videos that don't have this effect.

Hurry up jumbo #11.....!
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 11:29 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2011
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Hi,
I have a problem on saving my #11 HD808 on .mov. With short recording( 1min or less) it has no problem, the video files can be accessed but with continuous recording the .mov files cannot be accessed and it says 'error -2048'.

It seems that the problem started approximately around 3mins above on recording. The size of the .mov files was big enough to store a data in it to be recovered. My question is how do you extract the data of the 'damage' .mov files?. I have tried all movie converter, splitter and all failed. Any chance to recover the movie data?

-Kingston 4gigs
-Updated to the lastest firmware (continuous recording and time stamp removed)
-Using on mac and windows Vista
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:08 PM
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paolo176342 View Post
Right - the camera is duplicating frames and that's why it's looking jerky.

What could be the possible causes of this?
Paolo,

If you copied the MediaInfo correctly, you got a fake camera. H.264 is a compression algorithm, MotionJpeg is also a form of encoding video in a fil.. .the two are mutually exclusive. You either have Motion Jpeg or H.264... what gives? Are you posting correctly or did you mistype?
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:11 PM
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buoxor View Post
Hi,
I have a problem on saving my #11 HD808 on .mov. With short recording( 1min or less) it has no problem, the video files can be accessed but with continuous recording the .mov files cannot be accessed and it says 'error -2048'.

It seems that the problem started approximately around 3mins above on recording. The size of the .mov files was big enough to store a data in it to be recovered. My question is how do you extract the data of the 'damage' .mov files?. I have tried all movie converter, splitter and all failed. Any chance to recover the movie data?

-Kingston 4gigs
-Updated to the lastest firmware (continuous recording and time stamp removed)
-Using on mac and windows Vista
--Use CLASS 10 cards always, otherwise no less than Class 6.
--Use VLC player and see if it can open it
--USe ffdshow and use AviDemux or VirtualDub to open the video.
--If you have trouble with VirtualDub opening it and it plays via VLC or via WMP and ffdshow, try setting VirtualDub to use "directshow" as the codec.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 02:17 PM
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-yup i've been using VLC player and it says 'error -2048'.
-just installed ffdshow and using AviDemux and still video cannot play. Anymore suggestions?
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 04:17 PM
ptg
Barjetling Academy #1
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Joined Apr 2005
359 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by buoxor View Post
Hi,
I have a problem on saving my #11 HD808 on .mov. With short recording( 1min or less) it has no problem, the video files can be accessed but with continuous recording the .mov files cannot be accessed and it says 'error -2048'.

It seems that the problem started approximately around 3mins above on recording. The size of the .mov files was big enough to store a data in it to be recovered. My question is how do you extract the data of the 'damage' .mov files?. I have tried all movie converter, splitter and all failed. Any chance to recover the movie data?

-Kingston 4gigs
-Updated to the lastest firmware (continuous recording and time stamp removed)
-Using on mac and windows Vista

Original KINGSTON class 4 is OK ! No need for class 6 or 10 or ....
KM player rulz. Try it.
Good luck and report results.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 04:22 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by paolo176342 View Post
Thanks for the reply Tom.

That is exactly what is happening - duplicated frames i.e. no change between consecutive frames.

The video is in sunny conditions and the computer is plenty fast to play this back.

The term 'dropped frames' seems to be a bit misleading as, on the face of it, they are actually 'duplicated frames'...


Anyway - if no one else is having any real problems with dropped frames then I'll just send it back for a replacement.
Have you tried using a different flash memory card? I'd do that before sending it back.

Yes, the dropped frames typically show as duplicates when played back if the player keeps the prior frame image displayed when there is no new video data in the current frame to be displayed. So when played at regular speed, the video appears to stop for a fraction of a second, then continue. I think the video player being used can affect how the dropped frames are displayed. If the old frame data were erased during those brief periods, there would be a blank (probably black or solid color) flash in the video where the dropped frames were. Or if the dropped frame display periods were totally eliminated from the video stream, the video would suddenly appear to jump ahead in the motion. To keep the sound in sync with the video, I think most players just keep the prior frame display and timing.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jul 31, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
Old Jul 31, 2011, 04:31 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos View Post
Hi,

I recently received a keyfob #11 from htinter dot com. It took 10 days to arrive in the UK.

I took it out for a spin, attached to my dashboard and the resulting video looked promising. However, the next day, I did exactly the same, and this time the video had a horrible suqahes/expanded effect every time there was vertical camera movement.

All subsequent tests show this effect which leads me to believe that after a couple of days light use, the camera is faulty!

The card I used checks out ok as a class 4 and I have tried a couple of different firmware versions. I have a class 6 card on it's way and also a jumbo #11 from eletop. When I get these I will carry out further tests..

In the meantime here is a clip in which you can clearly see the effect if you look at the trees and rooftops:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhKt0YP3Mms

Many thanks for this thread and all of the info contained within!
When I did some hand held tests during lens focusing with the CMOS/lens module freed from the glue that normally holds it solidly in the camera case, I got similar distortions as I moved the camera. Even the tiniest movement of the camera allow the CMOS module to deflect slightly when supported only by it's ribbon cable. As I watched your video, it looked like these momentary distortions may have coincided with slight bumps in the pavement.

To check for this, open the case and see if the lens module is secured to the case with glue. If you can move it even slightly by lightly pressing on it, add a touch of silicone adhesive to each side near the junction of the lens module with the case. You could use hot melt glue, too, but it's much harder to remove if you need to refocus the lens. Use glue sparingly... you only need a dab on each side to keep the lens module from moving.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 04:59 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by buoxor View Post
Hi,
I have a problem on saving my #11 HD808 on .mov. With short recording( 1min or less) it has no problem, the video files can be accessed but with continuous recording the .mov files cannot be accessed and it says 'error -2048'.

It seems that the problem started approximately around 3mins above on recording. The size of the .mov files was big enough to store a data in it to be recovered. My question is how do you extract the data of the 'damage' .mov files?. I have tried all movie converter, splitter and all failed. Any chance to recover the movie data?

-Kingston 4gigs
-Updated to the lastest firmware (continuous recording and time stamp removed)
-Using on mac and windows Vista
I have one sent to me that would record fine for about 1 min. If I manually stopped the video, it was fine. If I ler it run, it would not only stop recording, but there was also no file at all on the card. Slightly different from you situation, though.

In the FAQs in post three, there is a link to a downloadable utility that might recover a corrupted file like yours.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 05:06 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny Gonzalez View Post
Paolo,

If you copied the MediaInfo correctly, you got a fake camera. H.264 is a compression algorithm, MotionJpeg is also a form of encoding video in a fil.. .the two are mutually exclusive. You either have Motion Jpeg or H.264... what gives? Are you posting correctly or did you mistype?
I also saw that and assumed he was referring to the still photos (JPG) files, and something got clouded in language translation.

The vendor he linked is a valid #11 seller, and since he was able to load in different #11 firmware and the camera still functioned, I don't think the camera is a fake one.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 05:48 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrobbie View Post
Take a look at post #370. It's a thumbnail comparison of the #3 and the #11. Compare the tree on the horizon near the center. In my opinion, based on that image, your plane will actually be larger with the #11. YMMV
Robbie
Yes, even though a wider AOV reduces the size of the image (compared to a narrower AOV lens), the much larger displayed frame size of the #11 makes the plane larger and easier to see.

Many people have shot decent hatcam video with the #11 as we can see posted in this thread. The wider AOV of the #11 also means the plane will be easier to keep in the video frame, so that can be a big advantage!
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Jul 31, 2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: corrected description
Old Jul 31, 2011, 06:22 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,237 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aero Andy View Post
Hi guys, I have a quick question that perhaps someone may be able to answer. I currently use an old #3 as a hat cam, I'd like to buy a #11 so I have improved video quality, but I worry that the wider angle lens will make my planes seem like little dots in the sky. I only use my camera as a hat cam, so, is there a version of the #11 without the wide angle lens? Any advice would be most appreciated.
regards
Andy
Hi Andy. It doesn't come with a wide angle lens.
That has to be purchased separately

Kev
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 06:38 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Hi Andy. It doesn't come with a wide angle lens.
That has to be purchased separately

Kev
I believe he was referring to the #11 having a wider AOV lens than the #3, which it does, of course, so that the wider aspect ratio image is fully in the frame. But the AOV of the #11 is still only about 60 deg., hardly what would normally be considered wide angle. If anything, the AOV might be made a bit wider to diminish the corner vignetting we now have.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:20 AM
ExPat
Aero Andy's Avatar
Spain, Murcia, Mazarrón
Joined Apr 2010
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Thanks Robbie and Tom

You've convinced me to go ahead and buy a #11, it's reassuring to get some expert advice. I'm ordering from hxeleprop360, they have even said they'd remove the time and date stamp before shipping.
Thanks again guys
Andy
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:30 AM
Reap the wild wind
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Bristol,UK
Joined Feb 2007
4,232 Posts
Hi Andy
you have made the right decision. I used to use my trusty #3 for hatcam duties but for the reasons Tom states have now started using #11. This is my most recent vid. The lipo was running down so I had to add music (a 1st for me) to cover up the buzzes etc that the cam makes under those circumstances
Head
Super Bandit maiden flight (3 min 44 sec)
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 06:40 AM
Man from Atlantis
Sub culture's Avatar
London
Joined Nov 2003
906 Posts
I've started using KM player as opposed to VLC, which I had some problems with on a new computer I built. I find it is much better than VLC.

Free to download http://kmplayer.en.softonic.com/
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Last edited by Sub culture; Aug 02, 2011 at 07:38 AM.
Old Aug 01, 2011, 10:06 AM
ExPat
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Spain, Murcia, Mazarrón
Joined Apr 2010
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Nice video Head

Your Bandit flies great, and I really miss those lovely green fields...

I'm looking forward to getting my #11, all being well with Hong Kong post, in a couple of weeks time.
Regards
Andy
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:00 PM
Tally Ho!
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The Netherlands
Joined Apr 2006
4,144 Posts
KM player is the best ! you can also take stills per frame of your keychain cam vid.

KM
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 01:14 PM
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United States, AR
Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub culture View Post
I'vge started using KM player as opposed to VLC, which I had some problems with on a new computer I built. I find it is a much better than VLC.

Free to download http://kmplayer.en.softonic.com/
Just got through trying it out. It works way better than VLC on my old XP computer.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 01:16 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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I use the free version of Realplayer to view, trim and cut out frames. Works good and I don't think it is reprocessing when you trim because it's fairly quick. It also adds in a feature that allows downloading of videos from youtube and other sites.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Colorado Mountains
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I use the free version of Realplayer to view, trim and cut out frames. Works good and I don't think it is reprocessing when you trim because it's fairly quick. It also adds in a feature that allows downloading of videos from youtube and other sites.
Hey Jumpy,
Does realplayer allow frame by frame? I have version 14...... and I can't see where to step through frame by frame? VLC does frame by frame, but my version locks up some times.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:33 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrobbie View Post
Hey Jumpy,
Does realplayer allow frame by frame? I have version 14...... and I can't see where to step through frame by frame? VLC does frame by frame, but my version locks up some times.
Good point...I don't think it does.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 08:15 PM
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Original KINGSTON class 4 is OK ! No need for class 6 or 10 or ....
KM player rulz. Try it.
Good luck and report results.
Definitely Class 4 cards will bite you in the rear ... just wait for it. If the data rate gets high enough and/or temperature etc., you will see dropped frames, artifacting, and many other issues.

Consider yourself lucky it has not happened yet. Kingston is not exactly top of the line when it comes to memory cards... but what do I know
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 02:16 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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China Post Shipping Delays

I just got notified by the camera developer that they have a large shipment held by the China Post for heightened security inspection. So if you happened to have ordered a camera within the last week or two, it may be delayed by the post office, not by the sellers. I have had my order being held by the post office since July 21.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 04:55 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Linux users flashing camera's firmware

Linux users that are flashing the camera's firmware may need to change the name of the file, contrary to the instructions. FW96630A.bin => FW96630A.BIN.

It probably depends on the options that Linux distributions are using when mounting FAT filesystems, but with the default options used by popular Linux distributions (Ubuntu), the camera won't find the firmware if it its copied as FW96630A.bin, but it will work perfectly when named FW96630A.BIN
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:02 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny Gonzalez View Post
Definitely Class 4 cards will bite you in the rear ... just wait for it. If the data rate gets high enough and/or temperature etc., you will see dropped frames, artifacting, and many other issues.

Consider yourself lucky it has not happened yet. Kingston is not exactly top of the line when it comes to memory cards... but what do I know
I'm still waiting to be bitten

As many people have already posted, the #11 will be happy with almost all brand-name cards. The class rating is not nearly as important as it is with the #3, for example.

I have been using SanDisk class 2 cards since the first #11 appeared and have never had any problem whatsoever. Kingston are not as good as SanDisk, but I have also never had any issues with my class 4 Kingstons, which are, BTW not as fast as the SanDisk class 2. Also, the size of the disk plays a role. I use 32GB cards and occasionally 16GB cards. Class 4 32GB Sandisks are very difficult to find and 32GB Sandisk class 6 or above don't exist.

The higher the class rating, the better the card - this is not always true, and many tests in this thread prove this.

Any cards with a class rating of 6 or above are more than adequate for the #11. Class 2 SanDisk or Class 4 Kingston will also give perfect results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Original KINGSTON class 4 is OK ! No need for class 6 or 10 or ....
Absolutely!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:43 AM
Registered User
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
When I did some hand held tests during lens focusing with the CMOS/lens module freed from the glue that normally holds it solidly in the camera case, I got similar distortions as I moved the camera. Even the tiniest movement of the camera allow the CMOS module to deflect slightly when supported only by it's ribbon cable. As I watched your video, it looked like these momentary distortions may have coincided with slight bumps in the pavement.

To check for this, open the case and see if the lens module is secured to the case with glue. If you can move it even slightly by lightly pressing on it, add a touch of silicone adhesive to each side near the junction of the lens module with the case. You could use hot melt glue, too, but it's much harder to remove if you need to refocus the lens. Use glue sparingly... you only need a dab on each side to keep the lens module from moving.

I managed to get it apart without destroying the security label - woohoo!

Unfortunately the lens was well and truly glued so it looks like a dud camera. I will be requesting a replacement from the supplier, htinter.

More squishyness!

Image distortion issue with 808 #11 Part 2 (0 min 56 sec)
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:50 AM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
331 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub culture View Post
I'vge started using KM player as opposed to VLC, which I had some problems with on a new computer I built. I find it is a much better than VLC.

Free to download http://kmplayer.en.softonic.com/
Thanks for the recommendation. My single core XP pc struggled to play the MOV HD files, they were jumpy and jerky with vlc, but kmplayer plays them no problem. Plus it will scroll through a folder playing one after another. Had to uninstall the first time as I discovered I'd inadvertently installed an unwanted tool bar as well!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 08:22 AM
I can fix it.
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Cochranton, Pa.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rh5wn...mment_received
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 08:23 AM
I can fix it.
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My first posting to this thread. Titles say it all.

This belongs in above message. Sure wish I knew how to delete a meddage!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 08:30 AM
I can fix it.
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Cochranton, Pa.
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Video Editing Software

I hope this is not off topic and if it is that someone will point me in the right direction. I have both Windows Movie Maker and Window Live Movie Maker as well as Serif Movie Maker 3 or whatever. The Serif program is too hard to use. The Windows Movie Makers are limited. If one had all the features from both combined, it would be OK.

So what program is user friendly and still full featured without costing too much?

Thank You!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffkot View Post
I plan on e-mailing them tomorrow. They probably had a bad batch and we were the SOB's that got them.
Have you had time to send that email yet? What did they say? I ordered a jumbo from the same seller, too. (It hasn't arrived yet.) :/

------Edit--------------------------------------------------------
Ok, it arrived today, after only 7days! Can't check the cam, though.
Need to buy a memory card first
------------------------------------------------------------------
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sub culture View Post
I've started using KM player as opposed to VLC, which I had some problems with on a new computer I built. I find it is much better than VLC.

Free to download http://kmplayer.en.softonic.com/
It's always good to hear of new players that will play our #11 .mov files.
My first impressions are, unfortunately, not good.
Admittedly, I only played with the program for about 10 minutes at the most.

1. I couldn't find where I can single step frames forwards and backwards. (VCL can't single step backwards).
2. I couldn't find where I can capture the current frame to HQ jpg (VCL only does very low-quality jpg).
3. I managed to initiate a PC boot by pressing S a few times. This is NOT GOOD!!! However, after the fresh boot, I couldn't repeat this behaviour.

I like the simple, uncluttered layout. The Zoom (+ / -) is EXCELLENT.

Until the author implements single frame stepping and HQ capture, this program is, unfortunately, of no use to me.

Just as a player, it seems OK though - but I did not like my PC restarting without reason.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 10:39 AM
a.d.m.i.n
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And for what you need frame stepping, you make photo albums from video, lol?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 11:18 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
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Joined Feb 2009
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I agree with reptor, Swiss Army knives are usually compromises!

For single frame scanning and full qulaity frame capture, Avidemux is hard to beat. Then use a separate and independent best viewer of choice.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos View Post
I managed to get it apart without destroying the security label - woohoo!

Unfortunately the lens was well and truly glued so it looks like a dud camera. I will be requesting a replacement from the supplier, htinter.

More squishyness!

I'm afraid this is normal behavior with these cams. What you see is the well recognized rolling shutter jello effect common with cheap CMOS sensors. It's not going to be any different with a replacement. Even my old MD80 clone displayed similar behavior.

These cams are extremely sensitive to vibrations, having no image stabilization. The rolling shutter jello effect is noticeable, albeit in a more subtle form, even when you shoot video while walking.

More information in this Wikipedia article.

FYI: As I recently wrote in an earlier post, the latest batches of the camera all have the lens assembly permanently glued.


Watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEaDrS-yzIE
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 11:57 AM
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Today I received my 180 degrees fisheye lens from Dealextreme (as mentioned at post 5636

Difference Jumbo #11 with 180 degrees fisheye lens and small #11 (V3) without extra lens.

180 graden Fisheye lens (0 min 24 sec)


The jumbo with fisheye has bad focus at the edges. Is this normal?

Even though it's a really nice lens
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
I agree with reptor, Swiss Army knives are usually compromises!

For single frame scanning and full qulaity frame capture, Avidemux is hard to beat. Then use a separate and independent best viewer of choice.
Except that it is most cumbersome to save a picture. Lots of mouse-clicks and no short-cut. I need to save hundreds of pictures from my movies, and Avidemux would be perfect - IF there was a short-cut key to auto-increment the name of the picture. VLC does have the single keystroke to save pictures, but the quality is sooooo badly degraded. I have yet to find a program that implements these, you would think, simple features.

So, I'm still looking for a simple player with these, for me, most important features...
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte View Post
My first posting to this thread. Titles say it all.

This belongs in above message. Sure wish I knew how to delete a meddage!
The forum software does not allow you to fully delete a post, but you can edit it to add comments, pictures, etc afterwards... click on the "EDIT" button.

What camera were you using to shoot the video?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte View Post
I hope this is not off topic and if it is that someone will point me in the right direction. I have both Windows Movie Maker and Window Live Movie Maker as well as Serif Movie Maker 3 or whatever. The Serif program is too hard to use. The Windows Movie Makers are limited. If one had all the features from both combined, it would be OK.

So what program is user friendly and still full featured without costing too much?

Thank You!
What features are you missing... I don't know anything about the Serif editor, nor for that matter which version of WMM you have used, did you use the Vista version (best of the bunch)?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elshiftos View Post
I managed to get it apart without destroying the security label - woohoo!

Unfortunately the lens was well and truly glued so it looks like a dud camera. I will be requesting a replacement from the supplier, htinter.

More squishyness!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrgOfrGnLMU
OK, then the only solution is to see if you can reduce the jolts to the camera when the car hits rough road... not an easy thing to do! I don't think replacing the camera is going to be any different. This (CMOS) camera scans each horizontal pixel line in the frame as it records, so any camera movement can cause motion artifacts that bend and distort the image. Higher frequency vibration can cause waviness, and strong movement can "tear" the picture. That's what you are seeing. I thought your lens securement might be amplifying the problem, but apparently not.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfvn View Post
Today I received my 180 degrees fisheye lens from Dealextreme (as mentioned at post 5636

Difference Jumbo #11 with 180 degrees fisheye lens and small #11 (V3) without extra lens.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LC_IA5jQLE

The jumbo with fisheye has bad focus at the edges. Is this normal?

Even though it's a really nice lens
Very wide angle lenses are problematic with things like linear distortion and edge quality degradation (focus or chromatic abberation)... to be expected with cheap lenses like this. The linear distortion of this lens doesn't look too bad, but is it REALLY 180 deg. FOV?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Joined Aug 2007
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2.4GHz interference?

My Jumbo#11 has a few lost and distorted frames at the start and end of my Easy Star flight videos. Is it possible that this is due to the close proximity of my DX6i 2.4GHz transmitter? It's not an important problem as these bits are usually edited out, just a bit annoying if it happens during one of my (rare) spot landings at my feet.
Mike
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Any thoughts on in attempting to reduce the jello effect it is better to hard mount to the helicopter or to try and use foam or other shock mounting? I've seen both recommended.

Thanks,
Fred
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Except that it is most cumbersome to save a picture. Lots of mouse-clicks and no short-cut. I need to save hundreds of pictures from my movies, and Avidemux would be perfect - IF there was a short-cut key to auto-increment the name of the picture. VLC does have the single keystroke to save pictures, but the quality is sooooo badly degraded. I have yet to find a program that implements these, you would think, simple features.

So, I'm still looking for a simple player with these, for me, most important features...
Isoprop,
I use a program called Jasc Paint Shop Pro 7 (old) that may do what you want to do. It's a picture editing program with a screen capture feature that you run in the background while playing your video. It has a single keystroke hot-key to capture and it it increments the name of the image on each capture. In set up, you have the option to capture an Area, Full Screen, Client Area, Window or Object. You can assign the hot-key to a single key or combo (shift F1) or mouse click. You can set a delay if you like, and you can capture the cursor if you like. I just did some captures in Avidemux and it worked just fine.
Robbie
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 03:50 PM
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Hey does anyone know how to reset the #11 after a bad impact? I crashed my Hawk Sky pretty hard in a tree branch and the camera froze up. I opened it up and there doesn't appear to be any physical damage to the circuitry, and if you plug it in to the USB port the charge light comes on solid like normal. But if you unplug it and try the power button and record button, nothing happens. I can't get the yellow light to come on at all. I've seen this happen once before after a crash, but it reset itself after a few minutes and started working again. It doesn't seem to be doing that right now.

Is there something I can do to reset it? Maybe desolder and resolder the battery? Or is the camera toast?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 03:54 PM
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Newcastle, UK
Joined Jul 2010
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There is a reset hole between the USB socket and the micro SD card slot, put something small enough in there and it will reset


Quote:
Originally Posted by prelator View Post

Is there something I can do to reset it? Maybe desolder and resolder the battery? Or is the camera toast?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 04:12 PM
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Hmm, tried that and still nothing. Any other suggestions?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 04:23 PM
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Newcastle, UK
Joined Jul 2010
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I am afraid not, the rest has always worked for me.
Have you tried taking the micro sd card out and doing a reset?
If that does nothing then there may be more guys on here that have more expertese than I have or try the Chuck Lohr site.


Quote:
Originally Posted by prelator View Post
Hmm, tried that and still nothing. Any other suggestions?
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prelator View Post
Hey does anyone know how to reset the #11 after a bad impact? I crashed my Hawk Sky pretty hard in a tree branch and the camera froze up. I opened it up and there doesn't appear to be any physical damage to the circuitry, and if you plug it in to the USB port the charge light comes on solid like normal. But if you unplug it and try the power button and record button, nothing happens. I can't get the yellow light to come on at all. I've seen this happen once before after a crash, but it reset itself after a few minutes and started working again. It doesn't seem to be doing that right now.

Is there something I can do to reset it? Maybe desolder and resolder the battery? Or is the camera toast?
At least you had the opportunity to crash it, there are a bunch of us here who haven't been able to get the yellow light to come on right out of the box.

The thing is a piece of junk.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:24 PM
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...
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:24 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffkot View Post
...
The thing is a piece of junk.
OK... you apparently got a bad one right out of the box. Your circumstances are regretable, and you've made your point previously. You have the option to get it replaced by the seller if you choose to send it back for replacement. If the cost to return it is too high, who's responsible for that? Most of us have cameras that work just fine, and to continue to label them all as "a piece of junk" is NOT the norm, and adds no value here.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:27 PM
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Canada, ON, Lakeshore
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Cards

Is there a recommended source for Class 6 or 10 cards?

Thanks,
Fred
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:29 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prelator View Post
Hey does anyone know how to reset the #11 after a bad impact? I crashed my Hawk Sky pretty hard in a tree branch and the camera froze up. I opened it up and there doesn't appear to be any physical damage to the circuitry, and if you plug it in to the USB port the charge light comes on solid like normal. But if you unplug it and try the power button and record button, nothing happens. I can't get the yellow light to come on at all. I've seen this happen once before after a crash, but it reset itself after a few minutes and started working again. It doesn't seem to be doing that right now.

Is there something I can do to reset it? Maybe desolder and resolder the battery? Or is the camera toast?
The FAQs in post#3 give the things that have been reported to have revived apparently dead cameras. Disconnecting/reconnecting the battery is one of those.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle View Post
Is there a recommended source for Class 6 or 10 cards?

Thanks,
Fred
FAQs in Post #3
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle View Post
Any thoughts on in attempting to reduce the jello effect it is better to hard mount to the helicopter or to try and use foam or other shock mounting? I've seen both recommended.

Thanks,
Fred
Neither work well if you haven't done your best to eliminate the source of the vibration... rotor imbalance!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:33 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Except that it is most cumbersome to save a picture. Lots of mouse-clicks and no short-cut. I need to save hundreds of pictures from my movies, and Avidemux would be perfect - IF there was a short-cut key to auto-increment the name of the picture. VLC does have the single keystroke to save pictures, but the quality is sooooo badly degraded. I have yet to find a program that implements these, you would think, simple features.

So, I'm still looking for a simple player with these, for me, most important features...
I see what you mean. I previously used GOM and it does have a smart capture using Control-G, creates hi-res auto-incremented BMP files with the first part of the name same as the video name.

It is fussy about codecs though.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:35 PM
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Rotor Imbalance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Neither work well if you haven't done your best to eliminate the source of the vibration... rotor imbalance!
I've a feeling that can be pretty tricky on a Parrot AR Drone.

Thanks
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:35 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixer421 View Post
My Jumbo#11 has a few lost and distorted frames at the start and end of my Easy Star flight videos. Is it possible that this is due to the close proximity of my DX6i 2.4GHz transmitter? It's not an important problem as these bits are usually edited out, just a bit annoying if it happens during one of my (rare) spot landings at my feet.
Mike
Does the camera do this ONLY when shooting video when close to your TX when it's turned on? Do some ground testing with the TX on/off to strat your troubleshooting. I'd be surprised if it's the TX. Try a different (CL4 or better) flash memory card as well.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle View Post
I've a feeling that can be pretty tricky on a Parrot AR Drone.

Thanks
Maybe, maybe not. You said heli, not quad! But the quad uses props just like our RC planes, and we can balance them. You just need to do it four times! That still may not do it, but it must be done as a first step. I've seen some really stable AV shot from quads and other multi-prop craft.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:08 PM
I can fix it.
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CG was off due to weight of the camera.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68hKZQoNG9g
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:20 PM
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Balancing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Maybe, maybe not. You said heli, not quad! But the quad uses props just like our RC planes, and we can balance them. You just need to do it four times! That still may not do it, but it must be done as a first step. I've seen some really stable AV shot from quads and other multi-prop craft.
.

Hmm true and true! I've got a spare set of props - I'll see about balancing them and then replacing the ones on there once the handy dandy tool to remove the circlip arrives. I understand why we have to balance blades on a heli - i guess I just assumed that a one piece propellor would be properly balanced but that may have been a fallacious assumption.

Thanks,
Fred
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle View Post
.

Hmm true and true! I've got a spare set of props - I'll see about balancing them and then replacing the ones on there once the handy dandy tool to remove the circlip arrives. I understand why we have to balance blades on a heli - i guess I just assumed that a one piece propellor would be properly balanced but that may have been a fallacious assumption.

Thanks,
Fred
I've never bought a prop that came perfectly balanced!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 07:17 PM
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Greenshot Screen Capture Utility

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Except that it is most cumbersome to save a picture. Lots of mouse-clicks and no short-cut. I need to save hundreds of pictures from my movies, and Avidemux would be perfect - IF there was a short-cut key to auto-increment the name of the picture. VLC does have the single keystroke to save pictures, but the quality is sooooo badly degraded. I have yet to find a program that implements these, you would think, simple features.

So, I'm still looking for a simple player with these, for me, most important features...
While I don't need to copy frames very often, I've never been happy with the process, especially when I want to add some edits, usually ending up using Windows Paint (with the latest version in W7 being a DOWNGRADE, just like WLMM is from the versions in Vista). So this lead me to look for a separate screen capture utility program, and I think I found one that meets your requirements as well as my own.

It's called Greenshot, an open source freeware utility that interacts with the screen display of any program I've tried it with. It is extrememly user configurable... too much to cover here, but it has the simple single key (or mouse click) capture you want and auto-incrementing file naming (to your specified pattern matching!) It captures in several different formats, including full bitmap. And it has a built-in captured image editor that is what Windows Live Paint should have been and does all I ever need to do with the captured image! It comes with a dozen plus language options, so should be useful to most any user. When run it just plops a small icon in the task bar. Accessing the icon reveals all the user toggles and a help file with usage instructions.

From what I see in the 15 min. of playing with it, it should satisfy most everyone's needs for doing frame captures!
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 07:44 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
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Australia, VIC, Rosebud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nageotte View Post
I hope this is not off topic and if it is that someone will point me in the right direction. I have both Windows Movie Maker and Window Live Movie Maker as well as Serif Movie Maker 3 or whatever. The Serif program is too hard to use. The Windows Movie Makers are limited. If one had all the features from both combined, it would be OK.

So what program is user friendly and still full featured without costing too much?

Thank You!
Take a trial of this http://www.cyberlink.com/downloads/t...paign=CL_Trial

I searched a lot of reviews & Powerdirector kept bobbing to the top.
I have been trying it for a few days & find it very good.
Don't forget to download their on line tutorial, it is excellent!
It's only A$69 here http://store.pcauthority.com.au/p180...ctor_9_ultra64

Kev
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 10:34 PM
Registered User
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Joined May 2005
176 Posts
#11 Cam w/ Dealextreme Fisheye lens

Guys , I wanted to share this setup I have been using on my yank and banks for a week now. With a little color correction and some post, it looks pretty good.

Not bad for 60.00 total.

Have a look at some a quick edit..


Untitled (2 min 49 sec)


Comments welcome.....
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffkot View Post
At least you had the opportunity to crash it, there are a bunch of us here who haven't been able to get the yellow light to come on right out of the box.

The thing is a piece of junk.
Strong words, but I have to agree on how flaky these cams can be. Mine slipped from the hand in a coffee shop, and it died after just that bit of impact - same behavior, only red charge light comes on. Really wonder what part gives out so easily (it wasn't the battery).

In contrast, my $15 MD80 clone performed flawlessly and was very rugged in-field.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 11:00 PM
FPV Browncoat
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United States, CO, Parker
Joined Mar 2011
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Well I tried everything I could think of to get it working and nothing. I tried the reset button both with the card in and out, de-soldering and re-soldering the battery to totally deprive it of power, and even putting the firmware file on the memory card and turning it on and still no response.

So I'm declaring this unit dead and just ordered one of the new jumbo #11 cams, which should be nice since then I'll have the ability to record two full length 20 minute flights right as I'm getting into FPV. This last cam had a battery life of only 30 minutes, so if I wanted to record two flights I had to limit both to under 15 min.

This last cam was my second #11. The first one only lasted a few days before a crash knocked the lens out of focus and I bricked it while handling it trying to refocus it. This one served me about 3 months, and withstood a fair number of crashes before finally giving out. Hopefully the next one will last even longer, since it can get expensive buying these over and over again.
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Old Aug 02, 2011, 11:31 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
I see what you mean. I previously used GOM and it does have a smart capture using Control-G, creates hi-res auto-incremented BMP files with the first part of the name same as the video name.

It is fussy about codecs though.
I thought that I had posted these here, but cannot find with the search.

I have some stills posted here in sequence.

These stills were clipped out using VDub>export>Image sequence>jpg.
The sequence is little more than 1/2 second, about 20 frames.
hawk (0 min 1 sec)
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Last edited by JumpySticks; Aug 03, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
Old Aug 03, 2011, 12:44 AM
Registered User
Colorado Mountains
Joined Aug 2010
352 Posts
Too COOL..... Looks like she rolled inverted to a Split S.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 02:22 AM
Dance the skies...
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Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Take a trial of this http://www.cyberlink.com/downloads/t...paign=CL_Trial

I searched a lot of reviews & Powerdirector kept bobbing to the top.
I have been trying it for a few days & find it very good.
Don't forget to download their on line tutorial, it is excellent!
It's only A$69 here http://store.pcauthority.com.au/p180...ctor_9_ultra64

Kev
Hmmm... it looked interesting in the web page (speed claims, mostly), so I D/L'd and installed the 64 bit version on my W7(64) PC with more than the minimum hardware requirements. I locked it up in the first 5 minutes doing some simple clip trimming and seeking to different spots on the clips with the timeline marker. It was totally unresponsive, so I rebooted, then began another trim and edit with transitions. During the rendering it crashed and shut itself down. But thankfully, it got to that point pretty fast! Not ready for prime time on my system unfortunately... uninstalled.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 07:02 AM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Aug 2007
508 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Does the camera do this ONLY when shooting video when close to your TX when it's turned on? Do some ground testing with the TX on/off to strat your troubleshooting. I'd be surprised if it's the TX. Try a different (CL4 or better) flash memory card as well.
Hi Tom,
I'm using an 8GB Class 6 transcend card and I can't reproduce the effect on the ground. I tried with just the camera and the Tx within a few inches and then mounted on the plane with the motor and controls all working but, apart from the 'jello' effect at some rev settings, (must balance the prop!) both videos were perfect. I'm now going to try shutting down all running programmes on the PC except for VLC to see if it's a player problem.
Mike.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 02:56 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,589 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
While I don't need to copy frames very often, I've never been happy with the process, especially when I want to add some edits, usually ending up using Windows Paint (with the latest version in W7 being a DOWNGRADE, just like WLMM is from the versions in Vista). So this lead me to look for a separate screen capture utility program, and I think I found one that meets your requirements as well as my own.

It's called Greenshot, an open source freeware utility that interacts with the screen display of any program I've tried it with. It is extrememly user configurable... too much to cover here, but it has the simple single key (or mouse click) capture you want and auto-incrementing file naming (to your specified pattern matching!) It captures in several different formats, including full bitmap. And it has a built-in captured image editor that is what Windows Live Paint should have been and does all I ever need to do with the captured image! It comes with a dozen plus language options, so should be useful to most any user. When run it just plops a small icon in the task bar. Accessing the icon reveals all the user toggles and a help file with usage instructions.

From what I see in the 15 min. of playing with it, it should satisfy most everyone's needs for doing frame captures!
This program is not exactly what I was looking for to capture single frames in a movie player, but, amazingly, it does a perfect job .
I haven't tried it on my notebook yet, but assuming I can display the frames at their full resolution of 1280x720 I'm sure it will work. - Just checked, my notebook has a resolution of 1680x1050, so there's no problem .
I only have to set the correct region on the first capture for each movie (Print Scrn), and afterward press Shift+Print Scrn. MUCH easier than going thru the Avidemux jungle! Absolutely SUPER.

Thank you very much for this link, Tom.

OT, but I've been looking for a screen capture like this for ages since my old screen capture program doesn't work with Windows 7. This program has ALL the functions that I need with a simple hotkey. It is an excellent piece of work and so simple to use. So, even if one day Avidemux implements a user-friendly single-frame capture, this program will still be more than useful to me. Why, oh why couldn't Microsoft come up with something as simple as this - their Snipping tool is a disgrace!

So, once again, thanks for the link, I'm more than happy
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 03:23 PM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
463 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredle View Post
Is there a recommended source for Class 6 or 10 cards?

Thanks,
Fred
Minimal class 6, but I recommend class 10, it's so little difference in price.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 03:33 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
This program is not exactly what I was looking for to capture single frames in a movie player, but, amazingly, it does a perfect job .
...
I only have to set the correct region on the first capture for each movie (Print Scrn), and afterward press Shift+Print Scrn. MUCH easier than going thru the Avidemux jungle! Absolutely SUPER.
...
Why, oh why couldn't Microsoft come up with something as simple as this - their Snipping tool is a disgrace!

So, once again, thanks for the link, I'm more than happy
Glad it meets your needs. Getting the region of the program window selected was the ONE thing I did not like with this program, but I found two ways to get around that:
  • Set Avidemux (or whatever program) to full screen mode so that the video frame is in the exact same screen position every time, then select the region the video frame is in. Next time you want to capture, use the "Last Region" option (SHIFT/PRINTSCREEN) and the video frame will be automatically captured... no need to reset it every editing session!
  • Set the preferences "General" tab option to use the "Interactive Window" for a capture. To select the video frame, place the mouse pointer on the video frame portion of your editor window (doesn't matter where the window is on the screen or what size it is) and use the "capture window" option (ALT/PRINTSCREEN). The program window will be highlighted, but hit the PAGEDOWN key and the child region (the video frame) will automatically be exactly selected!
Don't know if you already found these other methods, but one or the other might be a bit easier than selecting the frame region during each editing session.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 04:12 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,589 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Glad it meets your needs. Getting the region of the program window selected was the ONE thing I did not like with this program, but I found two ways to get around that:
  • Set Avidemux (or whatever program) to full screen mode so that the video frame is in the exact same screen position every time, then select the region the video frame is in. Next time you want to capture, use the "Last Region" option (SHIFT/PRINTSCREEN) and the video frame will be automatically captured... no need to reset it every editing session!
  • Set the preferences "General" tab option to use the "Interactive Window" for a capture. To select the video frame, place the mouse pointer on the video frame portion of your editor window (doesn't matter where the window is on the screen or what size it is) and use the "capture window" option (ALT/PRINTSCREEN). The program window will be highlighted, but hit the PAGEDOWN key and the child region (the video frame) will automatically be exactly selected!
Don't know if you already found these other methods, but one or the other might be a bit easier than selecting the frame region during each editing session.
COOL TIP! Setting Avidemux to full screen mode is what I wanted

In the meantime I've downloaded the beta version of Greenshot v.0.8.1 build 1300. Here you can define the shortcut key(s) you want to use (although very shakey...). [Edit] Of course I meant flakey and not shakey! [/Edit]
I have set "Capture Region" to Ctrl+P and "Capture last Region" to Print Scrn. You can't beat that!
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Last edited by Isoprop; Aug 04, 2011 at 12:45 AM.
Old Aug 03, 2011, 07:14 PM
Registered User
Canada, ON, Lakeshore
Joined Nov 2007
139 Posts
Cards

Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Minimal class 6, but I recommend class 10, it's so little difference in price.
Thanks for the responses - I opted for the Class 10.

Fred
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 07:45 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
OK, I finally got around to making a split "special" cable for powering two #11s simultaneously.

Using a fairly old Just Mobile Gum Pro (external USB battery) and two #11s with batteries only holding about 5 minutes of charge when fully charged, I get approx. 5 hours 20 minutes of continuous recording time on each camera. This gives a total recording time of 10 hours, 40 minutes. I would expect up to an hour more recording for each camera if all three batteries (#11s and Gum Pro) were new.

If you are not good at soldering small components, there is no way that you can make this cable yourself. For soldering the mini-USB plugs you will need a very thin-tipped soldering iron and VERY thin solder (0.25mm). You'll also need a good magnifying glass unless you have eagle eyes.

The Join
There is no join as such. Using two pieces of USB cable, I carefully stripped about 3 inches of the outer tubing, keeping one piece. I shortened this piece of outer tubing by about half an inch for later use. Then I removed the metal shielding surrounding the wires on both cables. I cut off the two data wires so only the black and red wires were left. Now I threaded these 4 wires (2 Red, 2 Black) into the piece of outer tubing that I had previously saved. I used 4 layers of heat shrink tubing to make a solid joint. This gave me a "Y" cable.
I soldered the 2 red wires extruding from the bottom of the "Y"-joint cable to pin #1 of the large USB plug and the 2 black wires extruding from the bottom of the "Y"-joint cable to pin #4 of the large USB plug.
At the mini-USB ends, I soldered the black wire to pin #5 and the red wire to pin #4.
Note: In this thread we always refer to pin # 1,2,3,4,5 and not pin # 1,2,3,x,4. See here for the pinouts.
I used hot glue, applied with a tiny screwdriver, inside the mini-USB plugs to prevent the cable from being pulled out of the plug.

As you can see in the picture, I prefer right angle plugs because they use less space than normal plugs.
And, last but not least, I always mark my #11 special cables with white heat shrink tubing.

The initial 5V supplied from the Just Mobile Gum Pro dropped to approx. 4.8V when both cameras were recording.

I have been lurking for a while and I decided to register because I had a few questions and comments to make.

First off, where can I get those 90° mini USB connectors? Although I only have one cam, that is a very slick cable.

Also, I'm not sure how many of you actually carry your #11 around on your keychain, but is there any simple way to prevent the cam from turning on in your pocket?
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Last edited by Ninety9; Aug 04, 2011 at 08:15 AM.
Old Aug 03, 2011, 07:56 PM
I hate winter!
binaryclock's Avatar
Canada, ON, Barrie
Joined Jul 2011
1,737 Posts
Just purchased a 818#11. Hopefully it'll be here soon and I can join the recording crowd Looks like fun!
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 08:39 PM
Registered User
Thomas Nelson's Avatar
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Joined Sep 2002
2,910 Posts
I thought I would chime in my experience regarding memory cards that work with our cameras.

I've ordered 5 cameras in total (two separate occasions), and in each case I asked the supplier (hotbid365@gmail.com) to include a "suitable" 4gb card with each camera. In every case, I have been completely satisified with the no-name card they included. Extra cost for the card: about $4.00.

Maybe, maybe I'm not as picky as some, but I honestly can't find a single cause for complaint with the cards the supplier selected for my purchase. Especially wrt the convenience of one-stop-shopping ... and the price point!

tn
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 08:54 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
10 Posts
I guess I'll chime in, as well, I have a Centon 8GB Class 6 in mine, video rate works fine, no dropped frames, that I can see.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 09:13 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
PNY class 4. No problem.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 10:03 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,060 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
This program is not exactly what I was looking for to capture single frames in a movie player, but, amazingly, it does a perfect job .
I haven't tried it on my notebook yet, but assuming I can display the frames at their full resolution of 1280x720 I'm sure it will work. - Just checked, my notebook has a resolution of 1680x1050, so there's no problem .
I only have to set the correct region on the first capture for each movie (Print Scrn), and afterward press Shift+Print Scrn. MUCH easier than going thru the Avidemux jungle! Absolutely SUPER.

Thank you very much for this link, Tom.

OT, but I've been looking for a screen capture like this for ages since my old screen capture program doesn't work with Windows 7. This program has ALL the functions that I need with a simple hotkey. It is an excellent piece of work and so simple to use. So, even if one day Avidemux implements a user-friendly single-frame capture, this program will still be more than useful to me. Why, oh why couldn't Microsoft come up with something as simple as this - their Snipping tool is a disgrace!

So, once again, thanks for the link, I'm more than happy
A Camel is a Mouse - designed by a committee, which is why Microsoft can't design anything useful.
Mike
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 10:50 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
I have a fairly new Samsung HD tv which has a port for a usb stick. Been watching some of the keycam videos on it and the quality is fantastic. These Jumbo #11's are incredible! What you see on youtube or even vimeo is nuttin' in comparison.
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 11:00 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
COOL TIP! Setting Avidemux to full screen mode is what I wanted

In the meantime I've downloaded the beta version of Greenshot v.0.8.1 build 1300. Here you can define the shortcut key(s) you want to use (although very shakey...).
I have set "Capture Region" to Ctrl+P and "Capture last Region" to Print Scrn. You can't beat that!
I've subscribed to the site "feeds", so when any news gets posted to the blog, I'll get a feed notice. Cool... user definable hot keys! A VERY useful utility for me!
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 11:14 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,237 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Hmmm... it looked interesting in the web page (speed claims, mostly), so I D/L'd and installed the 64 bit version on my W7(64) PC with more than the minimum hardware requirements. I locked it up in the first 5 minutes doing some simple clip trimming and seeking to different spots on the clips with the timeline marker. It was totally unresponsive, so I rebooted, then began another trim and edit with transitions. During the rendering it crashed and shut itself down. But thankfully, it got to that point pretty fast! Not ready for prime time on my system unfortunately... uninstalled.
Hmmmmmmm. Now that I have been using it more I notice the same problems. I;m also on W7 64. Damn disappointing because it is so easy to use. I did try the Magix Pro17 but didn't find it very intuitive.

Are you using Pro 17?

Kev
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Old Aug 03, 2011, 11:21 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Hmmmmmmm. Now that I have been using it more I notice the same problems. I;m also on W7 64. Damn disappointing because it is so easy to use. I did try the Magix Pro17 but didn't find it very intuitive.

Are you using Pro 17?

Kev
Yep... MAGIX MEP 17 Plus... it's been the most stable for me with the HD videos. I agree it has a learning curve and is not the simplest point-n-click program out there, but it has hidden power and versatitlity. So far, I've not found a better video editor for my purposes and price range.
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Old Aug 04, 2011, 12:00 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,237 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yep... MAGIX MEP 17 Plus... it's been the most stable for me with the HD videos. I agree it has a learning curve and is not the simplest point-n-click program out there, but it has hidden power and versatitlity. So far, I've not found a better video editor for my purposes and price range.
Thanks Frank, coming from you that means it must be the best out there

I'm going to try another download from here http://www.magix.com/us/movie-edit-pro/

The present one I have must have been from Germany because German text kept popping up & the voice-over on the demo video was of German accent.
The US one may have easier instructions

Kev

Kev
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Old Aug 04, 2011, 12:31 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,906 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Thanks Frank, coming from you that means it must be the best out there

I'm going to try another download from here http://www.magix.com/us/movie-edit-pro/

The present one I have must have been from Germany because German text kept popping up & the voice-over on the demo video was of German accent.
The US one may have easier instructions

Kev

Kev
Well I haven't tried ALL the editing programs, but comments from those who have claim MEP 17PLUS is not only better, but also less expensive. Make sure you get MEP 17 PLUS. It can be download in English version here. It can be bought for less than $68 delivered from amazon.com in the U.S. (YMMV).
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Old Aug 04, 2011, 01:43 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,237 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Well I haven't tried ALL the editing programs, but comments from those who have claim MEP 17PLUS is not only better, but also less expensive. Make sure you get MEP 17 PLUS. It can be download in English version here. It can be bought for less than $68 delivered from amazon.com in the U.S. (YMMV).
You've been of great help once again Frank!
I'll buy you an Aussie beer next time your over here
$68 is a great price so I have just ordered from Amazon. Also, you get the CD instead of just the download

Kev
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