SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Closed Thread
Thread Tools
Old Jun 27, 2011, 01:07 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrafalgarLaw View Post
No luck with the file recovery software including "Recuva". However, I am able to recover my video file using just plain "CHKDSK /F". It convert the whole folder into a file named "100MEDIA" without any extension. I manually adding ".MOV" extension so I can double click the video file to run in the players. Few seconds at the beginning of the video isn't viewable but at least I get most of it out. Thanks Tom for pointing me around this direction.
Thanks for the feedback and for finding that the simple DOS CHKDSK /F command for fixing file structure from a Command Prompt also works with external removable flash memory! Good find! I hadn't considered this since the flash memory cards have theri own dedicated controllers mounted in the cards. I'll add this tip to my FAQs links.

<EDIT>
Here is a sample Command Prompt syntax for doing this, with the flash memory card showing up on your computer as drive E:. Replace the "E" with whatever the camera drive letter is on your computer when in flash drive mode:

"chkdsk e:dcim\100media /f"

<EDIT>
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Oct 08, 2011 at 04:51 PM. Reason: added command syntax
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 27, 2011, 01:09 PM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC luva View Post
I have been researching this little gadget and I would like to buy one to mount to my rc car and rc plane. If anyone knows where to get one that is a little bit cheaper than 40$ please pm me.

Well if you buy cheaper version then this is not 720p, also is not #11, so don't expect quality as this one have. You can search on ebay, for 5-6$ but this has nothing to do with this topic... There is support just for #11
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jun 27, 2011, 01:38 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,476 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC luva View Post
I have been researching this little gadget and I would like to buy one to mount to my rc car and rc plane. If anyone knows where to get one that is a little bit cheaper than 40$ please pm me.
Back in December, before this thread started, I was quoted $36 for a #11 without charger. Most likely not the case now, but you can always try contacting them to see

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6516

Thank you for your linking our items. Of course, you can buy one camera without accessories ,it's USD 36 .

As a kind reminder,we suggest you to buy all including the accessories as below reasons:

1:It's support our company dedicated car charger.
2:The accessories cost less money for this item., just offer to you as a part.

I cherish this opportunity to do business with you. i trust you will make the best decision,any further questions ,pls feel free to contact us.Hope your busniess and reply,thank you.

Have a nice day!
victapilot is offline Find More Posts by victapilot
Last edited by victapilot; Jun 27, 2011 at 01:46 PM.
Old Jun 27, 2011, 02:29 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
NO, the firmware would go until the 4GB files size is reached IF your camera had enough power. If you are using the "regular" #11 camera (not the jumbo with the larger internal battery), then your recording stopped because the internal battery was exhausted. The internal battery is only good for 30-40 minutes of recording. You need external battery power to record for longer periods. This information is in the camera specs and details in post #2... you did read that first didn't you?
I did go through the external battery options in the thread, but the seller told me the camera would go for 90 minutes not 30. I guess battery pack it is.
ca323 is offline Find More Posts by ca323
Old Jun 27, 2011, 06:03 PM
Episyrphus balteatus
Paxman's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Dec 2008
183 Posts
OK, got my camera today!

First thing I did was a test recording. I only have an old 64 mb card so I only got a very short video, but I got a video!

Plugged the camera to my computer and it mounted perfectly. I found the file and played it in both Quicktime and VLC. It was basically a set if stills and sound but I put that down to an old (and slow) card and my crappy iBook. Will try a faster and bigger card soon and play it on my MUCH faster PC.

My cam has the time stamp so I will do the FW flash but I have some questions:

Tom states in the instructions:

Quote:
1. Copy the appropriate firmware file (FW96630A.bin) to the camera's flash card root directory (the one that first appears when the card is recognized by the computer).
Am I supposed to see a ".bin" file in the root directory of the card if I formatted the card in the camera?

If I mount the camera on my mac I see two folders: "DCIM" and "MISC". Is the ".bin" file supposed to be in one of those two or should it be next to them?

When flashing is done, should the ".bin" file be left on the card or can it be deleted?

Also, and Im sorry if this have been covered already, how does the charge light work on these? Will it go out when charging is finished?

Cheers!
/Fred
Paxman is offline Find More Posts by Paxman
Old Jun 27, 2011, 07:12 PM
Episyrphus balteatus
Paxman's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Dec 2008
183 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
I am now able to charge with a standard USB charger and record at once with my V2 camera! Just a small hardware modification (one 0R resistor removal) was needed: http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/...e_modification

The current camera circuit switches to mass storage or webcam mode whenever power supply appears on pin 1 of the USB connector. I plan to do more experiments and change the circuit to switch to USB mass storage or webcam mode only if USB data lines are wired to a real USB host. It is not so elegant as firmware change, but my camera would be fully charged after car ride recording aswell.

After this first step my camera never switches to USB mass storage nor webcam modes.
I think this is very interesting! I checked out your site and Im waiting for you to do some more finds on this matter. Please keep us updated!
Paxman is offline Find More Posts by Paxman
Old Jun 27, 2011, 07:23 PM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,370 Posts
Quick question... I've had my #11 for some time now but haven't used it much. It's been sitting unused for over a month at least. The last time I used it it worked fine, but now it seems the battery may be dead. I've charged it up, set it recording a clip, and it died in about two minutes. (Saved the file properly, end of file has the buzzing at 1 second intervals like when the battery gets low) I charged it up again, then tested the voltage, it was back up to 4.2V as normal. I started another clip, and it died in a few minutes again. I checked the voltage then, and it showed 4.11V, so without charging it, I started another recording and checked the voltage with it running. I watched the voltage drop from 4.11 down to 3.7 in about 15 seconds. Is it safe to assume the lipo cell itself has died and that replacing it will let me use the camera again? I've got some broken #8s and #3s that should have good batteries, can I use one of those?
KeithLuneau is online now Find More Posts by KeithLuneau
Old Jun 27, 2011, 07:48 PM
Episyrphus balteatus
Paxman's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Dec 2008
183 Posts
Keith,

To me it sounds like the battery is a goner. Thing is with the LiPos that they dont like to be stored at full capacity. One should store them at about 3,7 V/cell and since the #11 uses only one cell this is the voltage one should aim for.

Also LiPos are sensitive to deep discharge and overcharge. Im not 100% sure but I think the voltage are 3.4 V and 4.2 V. 3.3 V and 4.3V could kill the batt.

When LiPos are used in these applications it very hard to have control over the voltage but when using LiPos in RC-stuff there are a lot of different products for this.
Paxman is offline Find More Posts by Paxman
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:06 PM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,370 Posts
It probably was stored at full charge... I usually do a store charge on my R/C lipos, just never put much thought into this little camera one.

For anyone else wondering, the #3 lipo looks identical to the one in my #11, even the number on it was the same. The broken #3 has been sitting around over a year, the pack measured 3.8V. I soldered it in, and recorded about 5 minutes with it like it was, and it wasn't dead yet, so that's a good sign. I'm charging it now, will test later and report!
KeithLuneau is online now Find More Posts by KeithLuneau
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:09 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Hi Fred,

Comments in GREEN below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paxman View Post
OK, got my camera today!

First thing I did was a test recording. I only have an old 64 mb card so I only got a very short video, but I got a video!

Plugged the camera to my computer and it mounted perfectly. I found the file and played it in both Quicktime and VLC. It was basically a set if stills and sound but I put that down to an old (and slow) card and my crappy iBook. Will try a faster and bigger card soon and play it on my MUCH faster PC.

My cam has the time stamp so I will do the FW flash but I have some questions:

Tom states in the instructions:



Am I supposed to see a ".bin" file in the root directory of the card if I formatted the card in the camera?
It doesn't matter where you format the card. You will not see a .BIN file until you copy one to the card yourself.

If I mount the camera on my mac I see two folders: "DCIM" and "MISC". Is the ".bin" file supposed to be in one of those two or should it be next to them?
It should be next to them. The root directory is the first one that opens when you click on the camera icon.

When flashing is done, should the ".bin" file be left on the card or can it be deleted?
You must not have read the instructions fully or have forgotten the procedure. Go back and read the instructions for flashing in new firmware. This question is clearly answered there.

Also, and Im sorry if this have been covered already, how does the charge light work on these? Will it go out when charging is finished?
Yes, it has been asked and answered before, but this is a self-help thread. Go to post #3 FAQs and you will find the answer.

Cheers!
/Fred
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 27, 2011 at 08:21 PM.
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:18 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
It probably was stored at full charge... I usually do a store charge on my R/C lipos, just never put much thought into this little camera one.

For anyone else wondering, the #3 lipo looks identical to the one in my #11, even the number on it was the same. The broken #3 has been sitting around over a year, the pack measured 3.8V. I soldered it in, and recorded about 5 minutes with it like it was, and it wasn't dead yet, so that's a good sign. I'm charging it now, will test later and report!
Hi Keith,

The #3 cells are the same size, but are supposedly not as much mAh capacity. It will work, but probably not as long as a healthy stock battery. I used a good high C-rated Hyperion G3 cell in mine while waiting for a replacement. it was 180 mAH and would record for only 25 min.

BTW, it is pointless to store the camera at a specific charge level because even when it is turned off the cell is still powering the internal clock. So it will eventually run down the battery no matter what. Best protection is to periodically plug in the camera to the USB port for a brief period to keep it from fully draining. The battery has an LVC/high voltage protection circuit board on it, so it should stop powering the clock before the cell is over-discharged. But the stock cells are not very high quality, and they seem to plate up and lose capacity and amp delivery much quicker that our RC hobby power lipos. And who knows how accurate the protection circuits are?
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:23 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ca323 View Post
I did go through the external battery options in the thread, but the seller told me the camera would go for 90 minutes not 30. I guess battery pack it is.
The Jumbo version of the #11 WILL record for 90+ minutes, but it has a larger cell in it. So there was some mis-communication between you and your Ebay seller.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:36 PM
utx
Registered User
Joined Apr 2011
26 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paxman View Post
I think this is very interesting! I checked out your site and Im waiting for you to do some more finds on this matter. Please keep us updated!
Today I tried to trace the pin wires from the removed 0R resistor. I supposed that there is a resistor voltage divisor that converts the voltage to the 3.3V or lower levels of the processor, and changing the divisor I would be able to detect 3V on D+ instead of 5V on pin 1. I did not find any such part. It seems that the pin is connected to the semi-through hole and wired in one of internal layers of the PCB directly to the processor. It makes sense, but it complicates the modification.

Now I have a pin where I can control the camera behavior (left pin of the removed 0R on the image).

If I connect more than 4.3V there, idle camera switches to the mass storage mode (touch, release, and LED goes down exactly as it does after computer USB cable removal). If I connect 4.1V or more, camera stays in normal mode. (It explains, why the camera often leaves webcam or mass storage mode with a thin USB cable.)

So basically I would need to build a circuit that detects 3V bias voltage on the D+ line. When it is present, I should connect the pin to 5V, otherwise keep it open. Guessing that RC filter and open collector repeater may provide such function.

Maybe there is a better way to do it, but not having the main chip datasheet and the firmware source code, it is impossible to find it.
utx is offline Find More Posts by utx
Old Jun 27, 2011, 08:58 PM
Registered User
Joespeeder's Avatar
Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,227 Posts
Hey Guys,

I played with the cams this past weekend. It's not RC but I bet you enjoy it....

I sent this link to friends that I usually bore with my RC videos so I'll just copy my email note here for you guys rather than retype it.

------

Hey Guys,

For those of you that have suffered through my endless airplane videos
here's something a little different. I took the $50 Keyfob Cam and
mounted it on some sports cars this weekend. I only have the footage
from my Caterham (Lotus) Super Seven uploaded. This is the raw footage
with no editing. This was a test of the cam and mount so these are hot
laps but not over the top hot laps. I follow a good friend for a while
to get some car to car footage then pick it up a bit to get some video
in open air.

I'm on street tires and you can tell by the high pitch sound of them.
Later on in the week I'll up load video from some 911's we took turning
1:24's and1:26's. That video is from a low angle so you feel like the
video was sped up but it's not.

This was just a relaxed set of hot laps enjoying the Seven, the day, and
keeping up with some GT3's till they hit the front straight where they
went bye bye.

To give you some references on the main straight when the silver Lotus
goes by I'm going about 110mph. The Seven does about 123mph on that
straight but I wasn't pushing it. At the jump we crest it about 90mph,
land the car, then turn, I'm in 3rd gear most of the track except the
sharp corner after the jump(5B) which is down to 2nd , back to 3rd after the
toilet bowl, and top that out on the back straight. If I'm pushing I
grab fourth both before the jump and on the back straight. At the
hairpin after the back straight it's 2nd gear, then work up to 5th
before the start finish stand. Foot flat till turn one. Brake and down shift from 5th to 3rd for turn one and repeat.....

I was just really enjoying the Seven and not pushing to that limit. Lots of
opportunity to capture more video later as I now have a mount that works.

For those of you that haven't seen anything like this before you will
see my speed build as I get heat into my tires and after I pass the red
911(993).

All in all it's a cool video from a $50 HD Cam !!


Be sure to watch it in HD. Set the volume to 1/4 for the best sound.


Grattan 2011 (11 min 52 sec)


Joe


------

The cam was behind my windscreen.

I'll add a pic of the car to this post tomorrow. I'm at the wrong computer to do that now. So check back if you're interested.

Joe
Joespeeder is online now Find More Posts by Joespeeder
Last edited by Joespeeder; Jun 28, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
Old Jun 27, 2011, 09:19 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,082 Posts
I kept having to wipe the bugs off my teeth
Glad to see a real car being thrashed hard found the track.
Thanks
Mike
empeabee is online now Find More Posts by empeabee
Old Jun 27, 2011, 09:23 PM
Registered User
United States, TN, Oakland
Joined Sep 2008
29 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
OK... so it's an intermittant problem. Deleting files from the card should not affect anything. It sounds like perhaps the card memory space is corrupted. Have you checked your memory card's integrity or tried a different card?

Try re-formatting your flash memory card using the SDformatter utility, then testing the memory using the H2testw utility. Both are free downloads (Google for download sites). Once you have confirmed the memory card is good and it still does this with different cards, it must be some problem with the camera circuitry. But I'd try reflashing in the firmware as a last resort. I'd ask for a replacement if you can't get it resolved.
Can I format the flash card using the utility when the card is in the camera attached to my pc via the usb?
dmoshiloh is offline Find More Posts by dmoshiloh
Old Jun 27, 2011, 09:23 PM
Registered User
Joespeeder's Avatar
Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,227 Posts
Thanks Mike,

All the track guys think I'm talking about RC when I mention the wings of my Seven

Alas.. separated by a common language.

Joe
Joespeeder is online now Find More Posts by Joespeeder
Old Jun 27, 2011, 10:05 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
4,082 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
Thanks Mike,

All the track guys think I'm talking about RC when I mention the wings of my Seven

Alas.. separated by a common language.

Joe
& the glazed look when you mention the boot of your car.
M
empeabee is online now Find More Posts by empeabee
Old Jun 27, 2011, 11:39 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoshiloh View Post
Can I format the flash card using the utility when the card is in the camera attached to my pc via the usb?
Yes, you can. I'd make sure the camerra has a good cable and plugged directly in to the PC USB port for solid power and communication. If you have a card reader, that's a more robust connection, though.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 12:52 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Check the video editing links in teh FAQs (post #3) for more info on MPcam2AVI and Vdub.

I converted a native 20 min. #11 video from .mov to .avi using the MP4camtoAvi utility to get a lossless .AVI file (took 4 secs. to convert), then importing that into Vdub, and exporting with video set for "Direct Copy", NO audio, and frame rate set to 338 fps (to get the same speedup you referenced), which took 34 sec. So about 1 minute to produce that sped-up file even with the program changes.

The playback with WMP was jerky on my PC, which has a lot of memory and a fast video card, probably because the native h.264 video codec over taxed my system playing back at the fast rate. I did not have this problem when I converted an H.264 video to a .WMV file playing at 64x normal speed with a WLMM converted file!

<edit> WHOA! I rebooted my system because it was sluggish on several tasks I had running. Now after a reboot to clean up my system, that sped-up file plays back at full speed with no pauses whatsoever! <edit>
Mr. Frank,

Sorry to be so much trouble, but I got through step 1 with camtoavi. It works great, converted an 80 minute car trip in a little over 8 minutes (14% real time) with no perceptable loss of quality. It did make 4 separate avi files, but step 2 will take care of that.

I am having trouble with opening the avi files with Vdub. It gives me the error message below. I cannot find anything in the thread (searched it) about where to get the required codec. Error message attached.

Any assistance appreciated.

I did finally get the time lapse of the entire 80 minute trip converted with VideoPad, but it took basically the real time of the video to convert. I'm hoping to use the keycams to film entire cross country drives by saving from the keycams to the laptop, and doing the conversions overnight for each leg of the trip. The 80 minute trip takes 8+ minutes to view, so I intend to speed it up more. The 80 minute trip compressed is = 800mph! A short sample is also attached below,(Baton Rouge), but for some reason youtube doesn't show the 720p version.

I want to compare the quality of the Videopad's one step, but long conversion to the two step camtoavi-vdub combination.

Mainly I will use the two keycams on the wings of my Radian Pro, but they will be multi-taskers for sure. Sorry if the time-lapse thing is OT or distracting.
EDIT: Not sure what happened to the beginning of this video. Perhaps clipping it out of the long file using RealPlayer snarled it.
Fast Motion Test (1 min 24 sec)
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Last edited by JumpySticks; Jun 28, 2011 at 01:34 AM.
Old Jun 28, 2011, 03:38 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Mr. Frank,

...
I am having trouble with opening the avi files with Vdub. It gives me the error message below. I cannot find anything in the thread (searched it) about where to get the required codec. Error message attached.
...
See the FAQs in Post #3, very first link under the Video Editing title. You need to get the ffdshow codec pack to get the H.264 codec to decode the video using Vdub. A link is provided there. Then once in Vdub, you can reset the Source Frame Rate in the Video menu to you selected speed. To output with no re-encoding or quality loss, you then go into the Video menu and select "Direct Stream Copy". Finally, in the File menu, select "Save as AVI", and your file will be saved at the new frame rate.

FWIW, you can set the size of the file chunks that MP4cam2AVI outputs using the toggle in the lower right corner of it's window. Maybe you already saw that. The largest file chunk size is about 2GB... not sure if that is bigger than your individual videos or not. Once you get all your individual clips sped up, you can load the first one back into Vdub, then append each one in succession using the "File/Append AVI Segment" menu item. Once all are loaded, just reset for Direct Stream copy" output, and save out the joined files as one long .AVI video. You could then load that into another editor to add text overlays, transitions, etc. if you want. But Video Pad can do that, too. Once you have the ffdshow codecs installed, WMM should also be able to load and play the H.264 codec .AVI files.

Good luck. Let me know what you find. Also, just curious what codec you used to out your file with VideoPad. Anything other than H.264 will inflate the file size, but maybe make playback easier on your computer.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 04:13 AM
Episyrphus balteatus
Paxman's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Dec 2008
183 Posts
Tom,

Thank you so much for your answers in post #5010! Sorry for missing stuff that is already posted. Im doing my best to read all the information but sometimes it gets a little overwhelming... especially since English is not my native language...
Paxman is offline Find More Posts by Paxman
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:29 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Hi guys
Have just seen this http://www.youtube.com/user/georgitu.../1/cWaEoMAf1Z8 and it blew my socks off (still looking for them!)
Just love the way it captures the full form of the Fox. I'm sure it is a camera angle that would appeal to my non RC friends as well, because it shows how the video was created.

Have searched here, but having trouble finding an up to date mention of a vendor.

Can anyone help?

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:37 AM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
This is just fish eye lens, you can bought from ebay, or DX...
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:51 AM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,370 Posts
There are two different fish eye lenses commonly sold on eBay and DX, probably more... lol I've got a "W-67" and "FE-12". Get the FE-12 if you get one, the other one blurs the image around the edges a lot! The FE-12 works well on the #11 though.

By the way, I got nearly 40 minutes with the battery replaced in my camera, it's all good to go for a while longer now.
KeithLuneau is online now Find More Posts by KeithLuneau
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:57 AM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
There are two different fish eye lenses commonly sold on eBay and DX, probably more... lol I've got a "W-67" and "FE-12". Get the FE-12 if you get one, the other one blurs the image around the edges a lot! The FE-12 works well on the #11 though.

By the way, I got nearly 40 minutes with the battery replaced in my camera, it's all good to go for a while longer now.
W-67 is wide-macro lens, while FE-12 is fish eye....
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jun 28, 2011, 07:04 AM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,649 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
Hey Guys,

I played with the cams this past weekend. It's not RC but I bet you enjoy it....

I sent this link to friends that I usually bore with my RC videos so I'll just copy my email note here for you guys rather than retype it.

------

Hey Guys,

For those of you that have suffered through my endless airplane videos
here's something a little different. I took the $50 Keyfob Cam and
mounted it on some sports cars this weekend. I only have the footage
from my Caterham (Lotus) Super Seven uploaded. This is the raw footage
with no editing. This was a test of the cam and mount so these are hot
laps but not over the top hot laps. I follow a good friend for a while
to get some car to car footage then pick it up a bit to get some video
in open air.

I'm on street tires and you can tell by the high pitch sound of them.
Later on in the week I'll up load video from some 911's we took turning
1:24's and1:26's. That video is from a low angle so you feel like the
video was sped up but it's not.

This was just a relaxed set of hot laps enjoying the Seven, the day, and
keeping up with some GT3's till they hit the front straight where they
went bye bye.

To give you some references on the main straight when the silver Lotus
goes by I'm going about 110mph. The Seven does about 123mph on that
straight but I wasn't pushing it. At the jump we crest it about 90mph,
land the car, then turn, I'm in 3rd gear most of the track except the
sharp corner after the jump(5B) which is down to 2nd , back to 3rd after the
toilet bowl, and top that out on the back straight. If I'm pushing I
grab fourth both before the jump and on the back straight. At the
hairpin after the back straight it's 2nd gear, then work up to 5th
before the start finish stand. Foot flat till turn one. Brake and down shift from 5th to 3rd for turn one and repeat.....

I was just really enjoying the Seven and not pushing to that limit. Lots of
opportunity to capture more video later as I now have a mount that works.

For those of you that haven't seen anything like this before you will
see my speed build as I get heat into my tires and after I pass the red
911(993).

All in all it's a cool video from a $50 HD Cam !!


Be sure to watch it in HD. Set the volume to 1/4 for the best sound.



Joe


------

The cam was behind my windscreen.

I'll add a pic of the car to this post tomorrow. I'm at the wrong computer to do that now. So check back if you're interested.

Joe
Joe,

Yes, what an amazing little camera. The lighting was perfect. Nice laps at Grattan. I used to run my GT1 Camaro there in the 1990's. The track looks like it needs repaving. You were cruising the track with that Seven and leisurely driving the line. Thanks for the video.

Bill
Prof100 is online now Find More Posts by Prof100
RCG Plus Member
Old Jun 28, 2011, 07:45 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Thank guys.
Is this the genuine article?
http://cgi.ebay.com/HD-DV-LENS-Video...item2311cf1312

Sounds like these people are good to deal with from reports here

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jun 28, 2011, 09:26 AM
Registered User
rmcclure440's Avatar
Thompson, Ohio
Joined Mar 2007
34 Posts
Just received mine from seller eletoponline off Ebay. Only took 8 days from time of ordering from China to Ohio which I was very pleased with. I shot a test video and have not done any firmware updates. The time and date stamp did not appear on the test video.

Anyways I also bought a SDHC card reader thinking it was better to plug that in the USB port rather than the camera all the time for future video downloads and formatting but guess I would caution others that the 4gig PNY micro SDHC card is difficult to switch back and forth between the camera and card reader. (At least on mine)..

Have to take a thin bladed knife to gently wiggle the card out of the camera slot until I can get a small pair of pliers to pull it out all the way. Over time I guess this can possibly damage the slot. So from now on going to to everything with camera connected to USB rather than switching card to the reader but camera video output seems great so far.....
rmcclure440 is offline Find More Posts by rmcclure440
Old Jun 28, 2011, 09:34 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
4 Posts
Hi guys, can you help me?

I just got my 808 #11 Jumbo, but I have some dirt, or bubbles in my picture.

This are always present when I record or take a picture. Here is what I am talking about:









As you can see there are this bubbles in the top left corner, on the top centre and on the bottom left corner...

I've already upgraded the firmware to firmware 2 but the problem remained...
AndreObi is offline Find More Posts by AndreObi
Old Jun 28, 2011, 10:17 AM
Registered User
Ελλάς, Αττική, Αθήνα
Joined Apr 2011
316 Posts
A card reader is cheap and so anyone that does not have any then he should buy one.
I like this reader http://cgi.ebay.com/16G-USB-2-0-Micr...item53e52667e8 cause is small, needs no adapter, and once the card is inserted then you can`t accidentally remove it, unlike to some other that the card is exposed more, especially when you grab the reader to unplug it from the USB port.

It is not the fastest reader available, I have one that is faster, but it is not slow.
air_crash is offline Find More Posts by air_crash
Old Jun 28, 2011, 10:33 AM
AMA #903699
Tony_Fletcher's Avatar
USA, VA, Alexandria
Joined Mar 2008
924 Posts
Hat cam!

I did some experimenting with the cam velcro'd to the underside of my hat. I used QuickTime to flip the final file 180. Looks like I need to adjust my cap just a bit so the angle is a little better for looking out the windscreen.

After a 1.3 hour flight, I returned with three clips on the card. Two at 1GB each for 20 min. each, and a third that lasted about 2 minutes. That third clip must have been when the battery quit?

Here's the take-off run. Still trying to figure out the best solution for the cockpit audio.

http://gallery.me.com/tonyfdesign/100068
Tony_Fletcher is offline Find More Posts by Tony_Fletcher
Old Jun 28, 2011, 11:52 AM
Registered User
The Netherlands, GR, Groningen
Joined Apr 2011
9 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcclure440 View Post
Have to take a thin bladed knife to gently wiggle the card out of the camera slot until I can get a small pair of pliers to pull it out all the way.
Pushing the card further in with your nail or something tiny doesn't work? Inside the slot there should be a spring which pushes the card out to be able to remove it without any tools necessary.
grun is offline Find More Posts by grun
Old Jun 28, 2011, 11:53 AM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,370 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
W-67 is wide-macro lens, while FE-12 is fish eye....
The "wide-macro" lens can be separated to use just the macro portion of it, or using the complete lens gives you a wide angle much like the FE-12. The part I think matters most is that the W-67 is a 13mm lens and the FE-12 is 15mm, so it's got a little more room to look through without hitting the blurry edges...
KeithLuneau is online now Find More Posts by KeithLuneau
Old Jun 28, 2011, 12:11 PM
Registered User
rmcclure440's Avatar
Thompson, Ohio
Joined Mar 2007
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by grun View Post
Pushing the card further in with your nail or something tiny doesn't work? Inside the slot there should be a spring which pushes the card out to be able to remove it without any tools necessary.
Ha HA! Yep that works, Thanks! Was afraid to try that at first because I thought it was pretty fragile and didn't want to get it stuck to far inside...
rmcclure440 is offline Find More Posts by rmcclure440
Old Jun 28, 2011, 12:12 PM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcclure440 View Post
Ha HA! Yep that works, Thanks! Was afraid to try that at first because I thought it was pretty fragile and didn't want to get it stuck to far inside...
In this way work almost all notebook card-reader.
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jun 28, 2011, 01:09 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Thank guys.
Is this the genuine article?
http://cgi.ebay.com/HD-DV-LENS-Video...item2311cf1312

Sounds like these people are good to deal with from reports here

Kev
All eight confirmed eBay sellers of this camera are listed in Post #2. Just like the thread title says... "Answers to most questions in post #1-#3"
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 01:17 PM
Registered User
Joespeeder's Avatar
Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,227 Posts
Hey Guys,

I updated my last post with a couple of pics of the Seven.

Here's a copy of the email I just sent out to my non-RC friends with the next upload from last weekend... It details the cams, this thread, and the video.

-------------------------

Hey Guys,

As you would expect I had a couple of questions come back after my last note.

First...... Yup, I have made people puke from riding in the Seven.lol Although it doesn't take the Seven for me to have that effect. I've done it in the 911 also and seen it done lots. I had it happen at Waterford when taking a female passenger around for hot laps. Those laps were not gentle like those I posted here.... They should have been. She got quiet on me all of a sudden and motioned to go in.... Oops. Usually it takes a whole date for me to get that reaction !!!

As far as the cam goes I used an HD Keyfob Cam #11. It's an HD video cam that will take stills also. The entire cam is built into the case of a Keyfob. VERY small and light. So you can stick that sucker most anywhere. I use these cams to record video on RC planes and took them with me last weekend to stick them on some cars for giggles.

I have a few of the first version of this cam. They come with a time/date stamp showing on the video and you can update the cam to remove that. They have also had an exposure adjustment update. In a car it's not as big a deal. But if you mount them to an RC airplane then the exposure update is really nice.

You order the cam off of Ebay and as far as I can tell all the seller's are the same person. They are very nice and have treated everyone I've read about well. If you get a bad cam they swap it out and I've seen people screw something up and they help them. Everything you need to know and more is listed in this thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1362692


DO NOT read all 300+ pages...... Everything you need to know is in the first 5 posts. READ and follow the specific links in those posts. They keep them updated and they tell you EVERYTHING yo need to know. If you want to look at what the guys are chatting about in that forum then click on last in the page selection link. They increase the thread by about 2 pages a day so it moves fast. The first 5 posts are always updated and will tell you all they have figured out.

Here's the Big Fig Newton (The Tricky Part), you can ask the Ebay seller to update your cam when you order it to remove the Time/Date Stamp and load the most current exposure software. They have that bit loaded all ready. I bought my cams around Christmas so I had to do it as I got early versions. When you buy it write them a note requesting the time/date be removed and to load the current exposure software.

It takes about a week and a half for the cams to go from China to Michigan. If they get help up in customs then... well it's customs...

They record about 40min of video and a 4GB card will match that recording time. You can get longer and yes you can modify the cam with bigger batteries if you want. Look to the thread my young padiwans if yo want to do that.

Here was where I got mine.

http://stores.ebay.com/hxelepro360-D...d=244359069059

The key is to get a #11 sometimes it says #11 sometimes not. But it always says 1280x720 H.264 if it dosen't say H.264 then it's NOT an HD cam.

They have different packages with odd accessories. I got the 39.95 package.

Here's were you get the cheep SD card that are fast enough to record HD in this cam.

http://www.datamemorysystems.com/_me..._DM55_0977.asp

I have 5 or 6 of these cards and thy have worked in everything I tried. Cheap as chips....


Now if your wondering how to use an Apple formatted movie file (H.264) on your windows PC or how to load these files to a DVD you can play at how to bore all your non-track friends with those great moves.

You want to download a program called "Freemake". Google it... What am I your mother??? Install it use it. It's free and REALLY simple and clean. I have a new wiz bang iMac and I still find myself using the PC and Freemake to burn DVDs as it's sooooo easy.

Ok.... latest news.


Here's a new video of a good friend doing 1:24's at Grattan. These laps ARE NOT sped up. They are taken from the nose of a race preped 911 He also went out with a video car in front of him to get car to car shots. Unlike the Seven they were running hot laps. If you thought you needed a bucket last time then you will again. Only bigger.

We played with where to mount the cam and ended up getting some camera shake but it's not too bad. The driver holds a track record at Grattan, races and was flown to Dubai recently by one of the major tire company's to do tire testing.

So sit back and enjoy the ride.

Here's the link.

Grattan 2011 Faster (14 min 30 sec)


Joe
Joespeeder is online now Find More Posts by Joespeeder
Last edited by Joespeeder; Jun 28, 2011 at 01:37 PM.
Old Jun 28, 2011, 01:20 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Hi guys
Have just seen this http://www.youtube.com/user/georgitu.../1/cWaEoMAf1Z8 and it blew my socks off (still looking for them!)
Just love the way it captures the full form of the Fox. I'm sure it is a camera angle that would appeal to my non RC friends as well, because it shows how the video was created.

Have searched here, but having trouble finding an up to date mention of a vendor.

Can anyone help?

Kev
Did you look in the FAQs in Post #3! There's a link to lenses and vendors there.

I don't use these lenses, so only posted info that was available at the time. If this info does not represent a consensus, or better lenses/vendors are now known, if someone wants so summarize the current info in a post, I'll re-link the FAQ to that post.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:00 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
4 Posts
Hi guys. Here is a small sample of those "air bubbles" that appear in my footage.

Untitled (0 min 14 sec)


This is really annoying and I don't know how to solve this.

You can see the bubbles in the top right corner, in the top center and on the bottom left...

I just receive this today and its the Jumbo 808 #11. I bought it from the seller eletoponline365.
AndreObi is offline Find More Posts by AndreObi
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:01 PM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
Do you try to clear lens?
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jun 28, 2011, 05:47 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreObi View Post
Hi guys. Here is a small sample of those "air bubbles" that appear in my footage.

http://vimeo.com/25728605

This is really annoying and I don't know how to solve this.

You can see the bubbles in the top right corner, in the top center and on the bottom left...

I just receive this today and its the Jumbo 808 #11. I bought it from the seller eletoponline365.
Those spots appear to be some smudges or other small debris, and it could be in any one of FOUR places.

1. On the front surface of the lens - get some lens cleaning solution (plain drug store over the counter wound cleaning alcohol also works) and lens cleaning tissue to clean the lens. The front surface is tiny as you can see (1-2mm), so it's tough to get the tissue down into the lens surface. I lightly dampen the lens cleaning tissue, fold the tissue to a small point, then push into the lens opening lightly with a wood tooth pick, being carefully not to puncture the tissue. Then rotate the camera to wipe the surface clean. Repeat with a dry section of the tissue and shoot a test vid (hopefully it will be gone).

2. On the rear surface of the lens - you need to remove the screws that keep the case clamped together... there are two at the base of the standard #11... not sure where or how many on the Jumbo #11. Open the case so you can remove the lens (it unscrews from the base), but first put a thin line of paint across the gap between the lens barrel and base to mark it's rotational position. Then pick off any glue holding the lens barrel to the base. This MAY require removing the circuit board from the lower half of the case to get access to the glue, in which case you need to remove more tiny screws (two for the regular #11) to separate the lower case half from the circuit board. BEFORE handling the circuit board, I always put masking tape over all the circuit board traces and components or wear thin rubber gloves so you don't short any components or zap them with static discharge. Once you get the glue off you need to lightly clamp the fixed square lens base, then hold while rotating the lens barrel counter-clockwise to remove it. Note the width of the gap between the knurled lens ridge and the base, or count the number of revolutions of the lens as you remove it so you can get it back in the same location (you may want to re-focus it as well afterwards). Once the lens is removed, lightly clean the back surface of the lens with the cleaning solution and tissue. Do it lightly... the lens probably has a reddish-looking IR filter on the back, so don't dislodge it. You can then re-install the lens and shoot a test video, but I would also do step 3 before re-assembly.

3. On the surface of the CMOS array - this is the dark rectangular surface directly behind the lens in the plastic base. You can VERY LIGHTLY clean this surface with the same cleaning solution and tissue while the camera is open, but use a very gentle touch so you don't scratch it. Blow off the internal surfaces to be sure no dust has settled on the cleaned surfaces, and re-install the lens. Shoot a test video... hopefully the picture is now clear.

4. Inside the lens barrel - the lens has multiple elements and it's possible there is debris INSIDE the lens between the elements. In this case, there is nothing you can do other than replace the lens barrel with a new one, but there is no source for a replacement unless your vendor can get you one.

If cleaning the front surface of the lens does not solve the problem, the other steps may be too difficult or too much bother for some to try. The camera should not have this problem, so asking for a replacement from your vendor is not out of the question.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 28, 2011 at 08:13 PM. Reason: spelling
Old Jun 28, 2011, 06:07 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
4 Posts
Thank you tom! I will try that.
AndreObi is offline Find More Posts by AndreObi
Old Jun 28, 2011, 08:37 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Did you look in the FAQs in Post #3! There's a link to lenses and vendors there.

I don't use these lenses, so only posted info that was available at the time. If this info does not represent a consensus, or better lenses/vendors are now known, if someone wants so summarize the current info in a post, I'll re-link the FAQ to that post.
Thanks Tom
I did look there first, but wanted to make sure it was still up to date before ordering.

May I ask what lenses do you use?

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jun 28, 2011, 08:37 PM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2011
14 Posts
Hey, do i understand that right, that the Jumbo version is NOT AVAILABLE in the standard case (The regular "key chain" version of the #11) ? I just want the Jumbo Version because of the Big battery. I read it is 500mah?? So is there a jumbo version of the regular #11 case or does it only exist in other case because of the bigger battery?
Karkadam is offline Find More Posts by Karkadam
Old Jun 28, 2011, 08:59 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
Thanks Tom
I did look there first, but wanted to make sure it was still up to date before ordering.

May I ask what lenses do you use?

Kev
I don't use any wide angle lenses... just the stock lens.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 09:03 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karkadam View Post
Hey, do i understand that right, that the Jumbo version is NOT AVAILABLE in the standard case (The regular "key chain" version of the #11) ? I just want the Jumbo Version because of the Big battery. I read it is 500mah?? So is there a jumbo version of the regular #11 case or does it only exist in other case because of the bigger battery?
Gee... I thought this was shown well enough in Post #2. It's called the Jumbo version because the case is BIGGER, so it can hold a larger battery. The standard #11 is jam packed inside...no room for a bigger battery!
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 28, 2011, 10:13 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
4 Posts
Hi Tom. Already did everything you said... Nothing worked. Thanks for the help though. Already contacted the seller for a refund but still waiting for an answer.
AndreObi is offline Find More Posts by AndreObi
Old Jun 28, 2011, 10:52 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
See the FAQs in Post #3, very first link under the Video Editing title. You need to get the ffdshow codec pack to get the H.264 codec to decode the video using Vdub. A link is provided there. Then once in Vdub, you can reset the Source Frame Rate in the Video menu to you selected speed. To output with no re-encoding or quality loss, you then go into the Video menu and select "Direct Stream Copy". Finally, in the File menu, select "Save as AVI", and your file will be saved at the new frame rate.

FWIW, you can set the size of the file chunks that MP4cam2AVI outputs using the toggle in the lower right corner of it's window. Maybe you already saw that. The largest file chunk size is about 2GB... not sure if that is bigger than your individual videos or not. Once you get all your individual clips sped up, you can load the first one back into Vdub, then append each one in succession using the "File/Append AVI Segment" menu item. Once all are loaded, just reset for Direct Stream copy" output, and save out the joined files as one long .AVI video. You could then load that into another editor to add text overlays, transitions, etc. if you want. But Video Pad can do that, too. Once you have the ffdshow codecs installed, WMM should also be able to load and play the H.264 codec .AVI files.

Good luck. Let me know what you find. Also, just curious what codec you used to out your file with VideoPad. Anything other than H.264 will inflate the file size, but maybe make playback easier on your computer.
Mr. Frank,
Back again to cause you more grief. Yes, I found the link to the codec im plain sight. Sorry...must be a blind spot or something.

I'm still having trouble getting the time lapse to work. I installed the codec and now Vdub runs fine, but I followed the steps you gave and got strange output. First thing I noticed when outputting at 10 times normal frame rate (near 300fps) was that the estimated file size was showing near original size. Yes, this program also works very fast. But when I open the output file in WMV or in RealPlayer, the video is not sped up. It plays normal speed and length. When I view the properties, it shows the length as reduced and the frame rate at 300 or so, but plays normally.

I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but attaching some screen shots for your advice on perhaps some wrong setting.
You had inquired about the codec that Videopad used, so I also attach a screen shot showing that. I think it's the very same one that you had me install, h264.

I don't like that mp42avi breaks up a 40 minute video into 4 files, which then will all have to be run throught Vdub (assuming I can get the speed function to work), however both programs appear to have batch functions so once I figure out the process, it should be a good bit faster than VideoPad.

Thinking again of the cross country drives, 10 hours a day of saved video to process, hopefully while I sleep!

Thanks again for this awesome thread!
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 28, 2011, 11:15 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
1 Posts
no video

Just received my 808 #11.
Formatted my Trandscend 4G class 6 card.

Everything seems to look right (the lights are blinking as per directions) except there is no file created in the 100MEDIA subdirectory.

Tried reformatting, tried the reset button, finally upgraded the firmware.

Any suggestions? The lights are still performing correctly.

Thanks
plparshall is offline Find More Posts by plparshall
Old Jun 28, 2011, 11:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2011
277 Posts
(Delete duplicate)
RogerDH is online now Find More Posts by RogerDH
Last edited by RogerDH; Jun 28, 2011 at 11:54 PM.
Old Jun 28, 2011, 11:53 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2011
277 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Mr. Frank,
I'm still having trouble getting the time lapse to work.
To make a time-lapse with VirtualDub, you need to set both the frame rate and the "Decimate by" in the box below the frame rate setting. Decimate will throw out the frames you no longer need. If you want to speed the video up by 10, set the frame rate to the original rate x10 (= 300 in the #11), then set the "Decimate by" to 10 so it will only take every 10th frame. (That is, the output file will still have 30 frames per second, but they will be every 10th frame from the original.)
RogerDH is online now Find More Posts by RogerDH
Old Jun 29, 2011, 12:10 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
To make a time-lapse with VirtualDub, you need to set both the frame rate and the "Decimate by" in the box below the frame rate setting. Decimate will throw out the frames you no longer need. If you want to speed the video up by 10, set the frame rate to the original rate x10 (= 300 in the #11), then set the "Decimate by" to 10 so it will only take every 10th frame. (That is, the output file will still have 30 frames per second, but they will be every 10th frame from the original.)
That makes sense, I tried both, but not together.
Thanks!
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 29, 2011, 12:53 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
First, you can call me Tom! My comments are in GREEN below.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Mr. Frank,
Back again to cause you more grief. Yes, I found the link to the codec im plain sight. Sorry...must be a blind spot or something.

I'm still having trouble getting the time lapse to work. I installed the codec and now Vdub runs fine, but I followed the steps you gave and got strange output. First thing I noticed when outputting at 10 times normal frame rate (near 300fps) was that the estimated file size was showing near original size. Yes, this program also works very fast. But when I open the output file in WMV or in RealPlayer, the video is not sped up. It plays normal speed and length. When I view the properties, it shows the length as reduced and the frame rate at 300 or so, but plays normally.

I'm not sure what I am doing wrong, but attaching some screen shots for your advice on perhaps some wrong setting.
There is one small glitch in your process... I went back to my instructions to make sure I gave you correct advice (I did). In your second screen shot you show your frame rate settings. You need to make the frame rate conversion to the Source File block, not in the Frame Rate Conversion block. That seems counter-intuitive and it threw me off the same way the first time I did it. I have attached a screen grab of the correct toggles. The change you made converted the output to 300 fps, but because the source frame rate was kept at 30 fps, Vdub just plays each frame 10 times at a rate 10 times as fast, so when it plays back at 300 fps it looks like it is still playing at 30 fps! You can see this by stepping through your video in Vdub frame by frame. The file size won't change much by speeding it up... it just plays faster.
...
I don't like that mp42avi breaks up a 40 minute video into 4 files, which then will all have to be run throught Vdub (assuming I can get the speed function to work), however both programs appear to have batch functions so once I figure out the process, it should be a good bit faster than VideoPad.
You don't need to use the batch function. Load the first converted file segment from MP4cam2AVI into Vdub, then add each of the additional file segments (via menu File/Append AVI segment...) in succession into Vdub before you do any processing. It only takes several second per clip. THEN, do your frame rate conversion and all the files will come out joined back together at the higher frame rate.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 29, 2011, 01:17 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
That makes sense, I tried both, but not together.
Thanks!
I have it working now. It's very jerky if you don't use the right combination of numbers. I used 1000 fps & Decimate by 30. It's still a little jerkier than the VideoPad, but much much faster....and not reprocessing the video.

This should work for the long haul trips. I will need a faster rate anyway for such a long film.

You don't need to use the batch function. Load the first converted file segment from MP4cam2AVI into Vdub, then add each of the additional file segments (via menu File/Append AVI segment...) in succession into Vdub before you do any processing. It only takes several second per clip. THEN, do your frame rate conversion and all the files will come out joined back together at the higher frame rate.

Got it...that will work perfectly for the road trip. Ill first run the mp42avi on the batch of the day's clips. Go to dinner while that processes. Then after dinner I can set the avi clips up for processing overnight. Will have to restrain myself from watching the prior day's video while driving!

Excellent!

Thanks for all the help Tom...and Roger!

EDIT...at the rate this thing works, I won't have to wait overnight to see the finished product!!!
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Last edited by JumpySticks; Jun 29, 2011 at 01:40 AM. Reason: Edit...recalculated finish time.
Old Jun 29, 2011, 01:22 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDH View Post
To make a time-lapse with VirtualDub, you need to set both the frame rate and the "Decimate by" in the box below the frame rate setting. Decimate will throw out the frames you no longer need. If you want to speed the video up by 10, set the frame rate to the original rate x10 (= 300 in the #11), then set the "Decimate by" to 10 so it will only take every 10th frame. (That is, the output file will still have 30 frames per second, but they will be every 10th frame from the original.)
Hi Roger,

I tried your method, but it comes out very jerky compared to the method I gave. It looks to me like the toggles in the frame Rate Conversion box are all mutually exclusive (Radio Buttons!). If I set the frame rate to 300 fps there and then select decimate by 10, only the decimate by 10 toggle takes effect. The video plays back every 10th frame at what ever frame rate the source frame rate is toggle to. If I set the frame rate to 300 fps setting last in that block, I get a video that plays back at 300 fps, but with each frame duplicated 10 times, so it still looks like the original playing back at 30 fps. The only way I can get a video to play back all frames smoothly at an accelerated rate is to just set the Source Frame rate to 300 fps and leave the other toggle set to "process all frames".
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 29, 2011, 02:26 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Wide angle lenses

HI Fellas

I have been doing hours of searching here on lenses and it seems the best bet is to go the non fish eye because there is less vignetting & darkness at the edges e.g. this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180682979352. I don't need the macro function.

But does it give the same wide angle as this one?
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15mm-de...-cameras-39814

Thanks

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jun 29, 2011, 03:18 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2011
277 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Hi Roger,

I tried your method, but it comes out very jerky compared to the method I gave. It looks to me like the toggles in the frame Rate Conversion box are all mutually exclusive (Radio Buttons!). If I set the frame rate to 300 fps there and then select decimate by 10, only the decimate by 10 toggle takes effect. The video plays back every 10th frame at what ever frame rate the source frame rate is toggle to. If I set the frame rate to 300 fps setting last in that block, I get a video that plays back at 300 fps, but with each frame duplicated 10 times, so it still looks like the original playing back at 30 fps. The only way I can get a video to play back all frames smoothly at an accelerated rate is to just set the Source Frame rate to 300 fps and leave the other toggle set to "process all frames".
Sorry I wasn't clear -- I was going from memory -- but I set the SOURCE frame rate, the same as your method, but then set the Decimate By in the Conversion box to remove frames, so the output video ends up being 30 fps, not 300 fps, and it's 1/10th the file size. I saw this method recommended on a forum a few years ago, and it works well for me. If your computer can really process anything like 300 fps, then that would certainly be smoother than 30 fps, but mine won't, so your method looks choppier on my computer, apparently because of random numbers of playback dropped frames.
RogerDH is online now Find More Posts by RogerDH
Old Jun 29, 2011, 04:25 AM
Registered User
United States, GA, Loganville
Joined Jan 2011
302 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berkie View Post
HI Fellas

I have been doing hours of searching here on lenses and it seems the best bet is to go the non fish eye because there is less vignetting & darkness at the edges e.g. this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180682979352. I don't need the macro function.

But does it give the same wide angle as this one?
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/15mm-de...-cameras-39814

Thanks

Kev
I've been lurking here soaking up all kinds of information. I'm glad I can finally answer a question. I use these lenses with my d001/md80 camera. I just recieved the one you linked to from the same seller in the mail today after I ordered it around the 17th.

The ebay one is a .67x lens and will give you a view like this:


Compare that to the original FOV from the d005 cam:


The deal extreme one is .28x or 180 degrees and offers a much wider view:


I don't have an rc plane yet (but keep posting vids and I might have to get one!), but I use these on my motorcycle. I use the .67x when I mount the cam higher on the bike and the 180 degree one when I do low mounts. A good example can be seen in my recent video where I've been testing mounts:
Mini DVR on motorcycle (7 min 4 sec)


The aiming isn't perfect but you get the idea. The 180 lens is on the cam that shows the front tire in the inset facing forward and then again facing rear toward the end. Using that lens insures that I get a bit of the bike in the vid. The .67x is on the helmet cam and the "butt cam" (as my niece called it). FWIW, I think both are 13mm and that can cause a bit of fisheye effect especially with the 180. If you get the 15mm one, you'll get the same view but without the fisheye.

There's one more lens, the .38x but due to it's size, I'm not sure how well it'll work with the keychain cams. From what I've seen, it's kind of in between the two listed above and I think I may be purchasing one this weekend because sometimes the 180 is just too wide.

I have one more vid with a high mount that I used the .67x on but I'm thinking I'll try the 180 to see if I like that better. If I find it's too wide, then I'll order the .38x lens.
High Mount Motorcycle Cam (2 min 27 sec)


Here's a pic of the .38x so you can see why I think it may not work well with the keychain cam.


What I really wish is that they would put the #11 into the d001/md80 form factor and maybe offer 60fps.
theWolfTamer is offline Find More Posts by theWolfTamer
Old Jun 29, 2011, 04:54 AM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Welcome to RCG WolfTamer. A good contribution for your first post!

Hey, that is just what I wanted to see. That's a big difference between the 180 & the .67. Makes for an easy decision because I want to mount the #11 cam on the rudder of my Fox so that I can capture the entire aircraft from wing tip to wing tip ala: http://www.youtube.com/user/georgitu.../1/cWaEoMAf1Z8

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:07 AM
Registered User
United States, GA, Loganville
Joined Jan 2011
302 Posts
Thanks Kev.

I see what you mean, that vid would definitely look better without the fisheye effect blurring what you'd like to see.
theWolfTamer is offline Find More Posts by theWolfTamer
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:51 AM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
KeithLuneau's Avatar
United States, LA, Moreauville
Joined Jan 2002
4,370 Posts
I have both the 0.67 wide/macro lens (W-67) and the 180 fish-eye (FE-12). I agree the fish-eye lens can be a little TOO wide at times, but I found it to be better focused around the edges than the other one. The wide/macro still gives a wider angle than without it, but tends to stay sharp in the center and blurs towards the edges. If it will help I'll post a short video to show the difference.
KeithLuneau is online now Find More Posts by KeithLuneau
Old Jun 29, 2011, 09:11 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Hi Roger,

I tried your method, but it comes out very jerky compared to the method I gave. It looks to me like the toggles in the frame Rate Conversion box are all mutually exclusive (Radio Buttons!). If I set the frame rate to 300 fps there and then select decimate by 10, only the decimate by 10 toggle takes effect. The video plays back every 10th frame at what ever frame rate the source frame rate is toggle to. If I set the frame rate to 300 fps setting last in that block, I get a video that plays back at 300 fps, but with each frame duplicated 10 times, so it still looks like the original playing back at 30 fps. The only way I can get a video to play back all frames smoothly at an accelerated rate is to just set the Source Frame rate to 300 fps and leave the other toggle set to "process all frames".
It is jerky and I can't figure out why. It may be because the frame rate of the original is not exactly 30fps, it's around 29.94. The conversion seems to skip an odd frame now and then, making the output jerky. Still cannot get the output to speed up using only the frame rate adjustment without decimating. Not bad really, but just a little jumpy in spots.

Here is what I get with the 1000 frame rate and decimating 30.
br 12clipped (0 min 26 sec)
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 29, 2011, 10:19 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2011
277 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
It is jerky and I can't figure out why. It may be because the frame rate of the original is not exactly 30fps, it's around 29.94. The conversion seems to skip an odd frame now and then, making the output jerky. Still cannot get the output to speed up using only the frame rate adjustment without decimating. Not bad really, but just a little jumpy in spots.
I don't think the original fps being 29.94 will cause dropped frames, but you can try setting the frame rate to 299.4 instead of 300. Another thing to try is setting the Decimate By to 5 instead of 10. That will make the output 60 fps instead of 30. (Increasing the source frame rate is what's actually speeding up the action, while the Decimate is just reducing the final fps.) If you computer can display 60 fps, that should be smoother.
RogerDH is online now Find More Posts by RogerDH
Last edited by RogerDH; Jun 29, 2011 at 01:51 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2011, 01:13 PM
Registered User
Nederland, Gelderland, Meteren
Joined Dec 2010
202 Posts
Has somebody a broken #11 cam laying around, I'm looking for a new lens, because mine has a scratch on it. Don't ask me how i have done that.

I've tried a lens from a #3 cam but it's to small.

If you have one send me a PM.
KeesvR is offline Find More Posts by KeesvR
Old Jun 29, 2011, 01:30 PM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Aug 2007
508 Posts
New to this camera. MOV to AVI problem

I've just upgraded to an HD camera - a genuine one from hxelepro. It's the model shown to the left of the 'regular' keychain cam in Post 2. It seems to have the latest software (guessing) and has no date stamp (good!) It works fine but I,m having problems getting good quality conversions from MOV. I've been using AVC (Any Video Converter) and the best quality from that is using .mpg as the output which takes an hour to convert a 10 minute MOV.
I've installed MP4CAMTOAVI but it gives a very choppy video - awful! I assume that I need to add the H.264 codec. I've downloaded ffdshow but I have no idea where to go from here. How do I add the codec from ffdshow. You've probably guessed that I'm a bit out of my depth
BTW, I use VLC media player!
mixer421 is offline Find More Posts by mixer421
Last edited by mixer421; Jun 29, 2011 at 01:32 PM. Reason: More info.
Old Jun 29, 2011, 01:51 PM
Registered User
Ελλάς, Αττική, Αθήνα
Joined Apr 2011
316 Posts
Why bothering converting the format?
Just use another editor, that is capable of H.264 videos.
It is the best to do so to keep as close to the original video quality.
I can think only one reason to convert. So to play on very old PCs.

You can see in the FAQ what editors to use.
I myself use WLMM, Corel VideoStudio Pro and Cyberlink PowerDirector.
air_crash is offline Find More Posts by air_crash
Old Jun 29, 2011, 02:48 PM
Registered User
Joespeeder's Avatar
Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,227 Posts
Hey mixer421,

Check the posts in the opening of the thread. They have the link you need to MP4cam2AVI and Freemake Converter.

Be sure to post your vids.

Joe
Joespeeder is online now Find More Posts by Joespeeder
Old Jun 29, 2011, 02:59 PM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Aug 2007
508 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
Why bothering converting the format?
Just use another editor, that is capable of H.264 videos.
It is the best to do so to keep as close to the original video quality.
I can think only one reason to convert. So to play on very old PCs.

You can see in the FAQ what editors to use.
I myself use WLMM, Corel VideoStudio Pro and Cyberlink PowerDirector.
I am running an 'old' PC with Win XP. I do not wish to upgrade as this does almost everything I require. I have Movie Edit Pro which works well with most formats so I do not intend spending my pension on overpriced software just for a hobby. But thanks anyway.
mixer421 is offline Find More Posts by mixer421
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:27 PM
Lucid Dreamer
kobkobico's Avatar
USA, CA, Temecula
Joined Jul 2005
646 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeesvR View Post
Has somebody a broken #11 cam laying around, I'm looking for a new lens, because mine has a scratch on it. Don't ask me how i have done that.

I've tried a lens from a #3 cam but it's to small.

If you have one send me a PM.
I managed to get into the pool with mine today, and so it's fried.

I don't know if it will still work for you, but will send a PM. The wiring is all corroded so I really don't think so though.
kobkobico is offline Find More Posts by kobkobico
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:33 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixer421 View Post
I am running an 'old' PC with Win XP. I do not wish to upgrade as this does almost everything I require. I have Movie Edit Pro which works well with most formats so I do not intend spending my pension on overpriced software just for a hobby. But thanks anyway.
I don't know what version of MEP you have, but older versions do not handle modern H.264 video files well at all, even on a more capable computer. I started with MEP 14+, and skipped 15 & 16 becuase the trial version weren't much better. I now have MEP17Plus which works well, but I have a fast "modern" quad core computer with lots of memory running W7. I'm afraid your hardware is going to make editing the #11 video somewhat frustrating.

If you don't need fancy transitions or titling... just wanting to clip out unwanted video, maybe add some color tweaks, rotations, etc., just download AviDemux editor. It has the necessary H.264 video codec built in. See the FAQs link in post #3 for a download site and tips on it's use with the #11 .MOV files. If your hardware cannot keep up with the H.264 decoding load during playback, you can easily output with a different, more easily played codec (e.g. MJPEG) but with a big file size penalty (on the order 3 times larger). You may need more harddrive space or DVD burner to manage and store these huge files.

As an aside (not directly aimed at you), the best acquisition anyone with old XP computers can make for editing these modern H.264 videos is to upgrade their computer, especially with W7 on that side of the OS fence. The free Windows Live Movie Maker can easily process the native #11 files with out breathing hard. And the Vista MM version can be installed for more editing features if desired.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:50 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
1 Posts
Some HD 808 footage from me Ebiking at dusk:

http://www.vimeo.com/25667476
davy1010 is offline Find More Posts by davy1010
Old Jun 29, 2011, 05:56 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
It is jerky and I can't figure out why. It may be because the frame rate of the original is not exactly 30fps, it's around 29.94. The conversion seems to skip an odd frame now and then, making the output jerky. Still cannot get the output to speed up using only the frame rate adjustment without decimating. Not bad really, but just a little jumpy in spots.

Here is what I get with the 1000 frame rate and decimating 30.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgeWf..._order&list=UL
Does this mean you tried the Source video at 300 fps with NO decimation, and it played back jerky?

If so, your PC is hardware limited. With Source at 300 fps and decimate set at 10, you should get the smoothness of playback (same number of dropped frames) as the VideoPad method of 1000% speed-up with 30 fps output, but the frames will be much higher quality (video data rate is about 3 times higher with the Vdub Direct Copy method than you got with the VideoPad re-encoded quality setting you used. If it doesn't play back with same smoothness of VideoPad, it's because of the higher video bit rate that your hardware can't decode fast enough to play smoothly. If you decimate more, you'll get even jerkier video.

For smoothest video, you need to minimize or eliminate any decimation (dropped frames). Going to higher source frame rates and larger decimation doesn't do this for you. It will give you faster playback, but jerkier motion because of all the frames that are missing.

So you may have found your limit if you want to avoid the re-encoding process.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 29, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2011, 06:32 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
This Forum/Thread Use Rules

Quote:
Originally Posted by davy1010 View Post
Some HD 808 footage from me Ebiking at dusk:

http://www.vimeo.com/25667476
Hi Davy, welcome to the #11 HD camera forum.

Since you are new here, I'm using this opportunity to outline for everyone (not singling out you personally) the guidelines for use of this thread.

The free hosting service this site provides is dedicated to RC models, and the forum this thread is in is dedicated to aerial video from RC model aircraft. Also, this thread in particular is focused on that hobby segment specifically using the #11 HD camera.

This little #11 camera seems to have been discovered and is being used by many varied interests, and those users have found there way here. And they are welcome to come here for help in using their cameras, sharing problems/solutions, etc. But videos that are not RC aircraft oriented using the #11 camera (ground based or aircraft mounted), or are not demonstrating a problem or solution with the camera, are off topic. In short, general videos, even if shot with the #11 camera, without any tie to this thread's dedicated topic and purpose are off topic and should not be linked for viewing here.

I know some users like some of the off topic videos (including me), but they use up resources of the hosting site that are not part of their intended service, and waste time of RC aircraft hobbyists who come here expecting to see the camera's use for that purpose. I have to respect that intended use here. I have updated these thread rules in Post #1 (if anyone bothers to go there are read it) hoping to nip this in the bud before this becomes a repository for "what I did last weekend" #11 videos.

Sorry if this offends any one, but that's the guideline I intend to follow here. If it I can't keep the thread on topic, I'll have to close it down to further posts. It may have already achieved it's original intent anyway.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 29, 2011 at 09:34 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2011, 06:53 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't know what version of MEP you have, but older versions do not handle modern H.264 video files well at all, even on a more capable computer. I started with MEP 14+, and skipped 15 & 16 becuase the trial version weren't much better. I now have MEP17Plus which works well, but I have a fast "modern" quad core computer with lots of memory running W7. I'm afraid your hardware is going to make editing the #11 video somewhat frustrating.

If you don't need fancy transitions or titling... just wanting to clip out unwanted video, maybe add some color tweaks, rotations, etc., just download AviDemux editor. It has the necessary H.264 video codec built in. See the FAQs link in post #3 for a download site and tips on it's use with the #11 .MOV files. If your hardware cannot keep up with the H.264 decoding load during playback, you can easily output with a different, more easily played codec (e.g. MJPEG) but with a big file size penalty (on the order 3 times larger). You may need more harddrive space or DVD burner to manage and store these huge files.

As an aside (not directly aimed at you), the best acquisition anyone with old XP computers can make for editing these modern H.264 videos is to upgrade their computer, especially with W7 on that side of the OS fence. The free Windows Live Movie Maker can easily process the native #11 files with out breathing hard. And the Vista MM version can be installed for more editing features if desired.
I'm thinking that part of my problem with the jumpy timelapse videos is that I'm using a Dell Dual core with XP. I have to hold on to xp because I run some very expensive software (autocad for example,at around $8,000.00 pwe license) which I would have to repurchase if I moved to windows 7. I'm holding out as long as I possibly can.
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 29, 2011, 06:56 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Does this mean you tried the Source video at 300 fps with NO decimation, and it played back jerky?

If so, your PC is hardware limited. With Source at 300 fps and decimate set at 10, you should get the smoothness of playback (same number of dropped frames) as the VideoPad method of 1000% speed-up with 30 fps output, but the frames will be much higher quality (video data rate is about 3 times higher with the Vdub Direct Copy method than you got with the VideoPad re-encoded quality setting you used. If it doesn't play back with same smoothness of VideoPad, it's because of the higher video bit rate that your hardware can't decode fast enough to play smoothly. If you decimate more, you'll get even jerkier video.

For smoothest video, you need to minimize or eliminate any decimation (dropped frames). Going to higher source frame rates and larger decimation doesn't do this for you. It will give you faster playback, but jerkier motion because of all the frames that are missing.

So you may have found your limit if you want to avoid the re-encoding process.
When set at 300fps and no decimation, it plays at regular speed...no time lapse effect and no reduction in file size. Interestingly though, the video length displayed by the player (real or WMP) says it's shorter, but the video continues to play at regular speed after the time slider reaches the end. Very strange! No speedup without some decimation.

I figured a hardware limitation too, but it seems like if I upload to youtube, the file would play for you at high speed. I will try that, but have my doubts. (I'll use a flying video from now on!)

Very strange indeed.
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 29, 2011, 07:23 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
When set at 300fps and no decimation, it plays at regular speed...no time lapse effect and no reduction in file size. Interestingly though, the video length displayed by the player (real or WMP) says it's shorter, but the video continues to play at regular speed after the time slider reaches the end. Very strange! No speedup without some decimation.

I figured a hardware limitation too, but it seems like if I upload to youtube, the file would play for you at high speed. I will try that, but have my doubts. (I'll use a flying video from now on!)

Very strange indeed.
A video that is used to demonstrate a problem or solution with the #11, including video editing issues, is fair game here by my rules interpretation!

I have my "old" Dell Core2 PC I can try the video on, but when I play the 300 fps clip (no decimation) with WMP (v12) on my W7 PC, it plays back perfectly smooth at 300 fps (20 min. clips plays in 2 min,). Ditto for the VLC player! But interestingly, some programs won't or can't display at full speed. Even loading the 300fps video back into Vdub and playing it there only plays it in normal speed! Very strange! I'd think your dual core PC has the horsepower to play back the video... have you updated to the most recent version of WMP or tried VLC for playback?
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 29, 2011, 09:09 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
A video that is used to demonstrate a problem or solution with the #11, including video editing issues, is fair game here by my rules interpretation!

I have my "old" Dell Core2 PC I can try the video on, but when I play the 300 fps clip (no decimation) with WMP (v12) on my W7 PC, it plays back perfectly smooth at 300 fps (20 min. clips plays in 2 min,). Ditto for the VLC player! But interestingly, some programs won't or can't display at full speed. Even loading the 300fps video back into Vdub and playing it there only plays it in normal speed! Very strange! I'd think your dual core PC has the horsepower to play back the video... have you updated to the most recent version of WMP or tried VLC for playback?
Yes I have up to date wmp. VLC playback is the same as others.

Glad you agree that it's strange.

Thanks for your generous assistance. Hanging it up for the moment. Perhaps the answer will come when not trying. Works for me sometime.
JumpySticks is offline Find More Posts by JumpySticks
Old Jun 30, 2011, 01:32 AM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Yes I have up to date wmp. VLC playback is the same as others.

Glad you agree that it's strange.

Thanks for your generous assistance. Hanging it up for the moment. Perhaps the answer will come when not trying. Works for me sometime.
I'll offer just one more observation after playing back the 300fps (no decimation) file on three different computers. I saw a real time display in the converted video frame ticking away and could tell they weren't playing back at 10 times the normal rate on ANY of the three PCs. An approximate visual observation with all three machines using WMP v12 for playback showed:

Dell Pentium PC running XP: about 60 fps (2 sec. tick off the video every sec.)

Dell Core Duo PC (32 bit) running W7: about 90 fps (3 sec. tick off the video every sec.

Dell I7 Quad Core (64 bit) running W7: less than 150 fps (<5 sec. tick off the video every sec.)

The graphics cards in these machines are also affecting the speed of playback to some degree, but I can't quantify. But I can say the card in my high end PC is a fast Nvidia graphics card, and even with that platform I'm only able to play back the 300 fps video at slightly less than half the recorded speed! That surprised me a bit.

But the video did play back smoothly on all the PCs, so the video must be buffered by WMP, and then played as fast as the machine can process the data without hiccuping.

So I think your video processed by Vdub is playing as fast as it can on your PC. It may look like it is playing a regular speed, but it may actually be a bit faster. You could time the playback versus the theoretical speed to get the exact frame rate. The video info you posted on the clip processed with VideoPad had the frame size smaller (1080 x 576 vs 1280 x 720) which lowers the data rate by about 1/3, and the video quality setting you used had a bit rate about 1/3 as fast as the Vdub direct copy bit rate. And the output was set for 25 FPS rather than 30. So it would playback much easier and faster, but with some slight visible quality loss.

Bottom line - if you want faster playing video, you need to either decimate and accept the jerky playback, or re-encode, choosing smaller frame size and/or lower video bit rate and/or different video codec to lower the processing power/time required to play back on your PC.

Good luck... have fun with it.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jun 30, 2011, 04:01 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,613 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
I am now able to charge with a standard USB charger and record at once with my V2 camera! Just a small hardware modification (one 0R resistor removal) was needed: http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/...e_modification

The current camera circuit switches to mass storage or webcam mode whenever power supply appears on pin 1 of the USB connector. I plan to do more experiments and change the circuit to switch to USB mass storage or webcam mode only if USB data lines are wired to a real USB host. It is not so elegant as firmware change, but my camera would be fully charged after car ride recording aswell.

After this first step my camera never switches to USB mass storage nor webcam modes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
Today I tried to trace the pin wires from the removed 0R resistor. I supposed that there is a resistor voltage divisor that converts the voltage to the 3.3V or lower levels of the processor, and changing the divisor I would be able to detect 3V on D+ instead of 5V on pin 1. I did not find any such part. It seems that the pin is connected to the semi-through hole and wired in one of internal layers of the PCB directly to the processor. It makes sense, but it complicates the modification.

Now I have a pin where I can control the camera behavior (left pin of the removed 0R on the image).

If I connect more than 4.3V there, idle camera switches to the mass storage mode (touch, release, and LED goes down exactly as it does after computer USB cable removal). If I connect 4.1V or more, camera stays in normal mode. (It explains, why the camera often leaves webcam or mass storage mode with a thin USB cable.)

So basically I would need to build a circuit that detects 3V bias voltage on the D+ line. When it is present, I should connect the pin to 5V, otherwise keep it open. Guessing that RC filter and open collector repeater may provide such function.

Maybe there is a better way to do it, but not having the main chip datasheet and the firmware source code, it is impossible to find it.
Incredible detective work. Very, very interesting. Thank you very much for your clear and precise explanations, and the excellent picture. I'm now seriously considering removing the resistor on my own camera.

Unfortunately, although basically very simple, this modification can't be done by the majority of people reading this thread because of the tiny circuitry and lack of equipment. For me it would be challenging because of my no-longer-so-good eyesight and clumsy fingers

Have you considered (mis)using the "Reset" button as a helping hand? This button doesn't have much use as it is. I know this would not be an elegant solution, but maybe easier than building a small smt board/wiring harness to monitor the data line(s).

Anyway, please do keep us informed if/when you find something new.
Isoprop is offline Find More Posts by Isoprop
Old Jun 30, 2011, 05:27 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
58 Posts
I want to say thanks for the info in this thread. I have spent the last few weeks reading on here. I have some further questions of which I would appreciate some help.


1: Battery Mods

a) Has anyone successfully modified a #11 HD cam to provide 2-3 hours of video footage without using a battery pack and USB lead? So I mean using an internal battery with obviously the casing modified or the battery attached to the casing still somehow? What is involved?

b) Is it possible to fit a battery internally inside the stock #11 jumbo version casing that provides 2-3 hours worth of video footage, as opposed to the standard 100 minutes which is advertised? If not what is the most one can achieve with a replacement internal battery? Nothing more than the stock one? Does the stock jumbo battery maximize the space potential already I mean?

c) Can someone explain why I cannot use a Cell phone battery? Here in the UK most cell phones (mobile phones we call them!) have li-ion flat, rectangular, flat batteries typically between 500-2000mah dependant on handset. I know it says to use Li-Po but the different is not clear to me as to how they differ and what considerations I should make in trying different internal battery solutions.

2: Video quality / bitrate

a) What is the conclusion about 7mb/s vs 10mb/s? The FAQ guide seems to indicate that 10mb/s is not worth the extra space taken up by the files. Does it really use up 40% more space!? That cannot be right surely?

b) I gather the bitrate can be changed based on how the micro SD card is formatted, but how does one check what bitrate the resultant video is at? What utility/software can tell me? As simple as checking the properties of the vid file in windows?


3: Wide angle lens attachment

How are you guys attaching your wide angle lens to the keychain casing? Has anyone managed a temporary solution so you can remove the lens as and when necessary? A screwed thread somehow?
coursemyhorse is offline Find More Posts by coursemyhorse
Last edited by coursemyhorse; Jun 30, 2011 at 07:48 AM.
Old Jun 30, 2011, 05:32 AM
Agricultural flyer
mixer421's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Aug 2007
508 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't know what version of MEP you have, but older versions do not handle modern H.264 video files well at all, even on a more capable computer. I started with MEP 14+, and skipped 15 & 16 becuase the trial version weren't much better. I now have MEP17Plus which works well, but I have a fast "modern" quad core computer with lots of memory running W7. I'm afraid your hardware is going to make editing the #11 video somewhat frustrating.

If you don't need fancy transitions or titling... just wanting to clip out unwanted video, maybe add some color tweaks, rotations, etc., just download AviDemux editor. It has the necessary H.264 video codec built in. See the FAQs link in post #3 for a download site and tips on it's use with the #11 .MOV files. If your hardware cannot keep up with the H.264 decoding load during playback, you can easily output with a different, more easily played codec (e.g. MJPEG) but with a big file size penalty (on the order 3 times larger). You may need more harddrive space or DVD burner to manage and store these huge files.

As an aside (not directly aimed at you), the best acquisition anyone with old XP computers can make for editing these modern H.264 videos is to upgrade their computer, especially with W7 on that side of the OS fence. The free Windows Live Movie Maker can easily process the native #11 files with out breathing hard. And the Vista MM version can be installed for more editing features if desired.
Thanks Tom, I'm getting reasonable results by using AVC to convert to Mpeg2 though I have to put up with reduced resolution. I can then fully edit this with my old MEP10. I'll try AViDemux which sounds as though it'll do the job I need - nothing fancy! Overall, the camera is lot better video than my old MD-80..
mixer421 is offline Find More Posts by mixer421
Old Jun 30, 2011, 08:39 AM
PED
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
5 Posts
808 Camera mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by Normandy5 View Post
ActionCam seems to be an 808 #11 camera with a mounting kit.

OMG $139.95

http://ped-products.com/index.php?di...product_id=121
Hey all, in viewing our website's stats I came across this thread and I just wanted to inform that the mount for the 808 style cameras is available outside of the package, here. At current we can't get the cost down until we see a higher demand...

I also just wanted to mention that the $119 package cost includes, the HD #11 camera, 4G memory, Mount and FREE shipping by USPS in US. or the $89 package with the .AVI HD which includes all the items as previously mentioned.

We would invite any comments/suggestions or questions you might have.

Regards,

PED Products
PED is offline Find More Posts by PED
Old Jun 30, 2011, 06:31 PM
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Berkie's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Rosebud
Joined Feb 2007
2,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KeithLuneau View Post
I have both the 0.67 wide/macro lens (W-67) and the 180 fish-eye (FE-12). I agree the fish-eye lens can be a little TOO wide at times, but I found it to be better focused around the edges than the other one. The wide/macro still gives a wider angle than without it, but tends to stay sharp in the center and blurs towards the edges. If it will help I'll post a short video to show the difference.
Yeah Keith. I'd like to see that

Thanks

Kev
Berkie is offline Find More Posts by Berkie
Old Jul 01, 2011, 12:40 AM
Registered User
jims123's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by davy1010 View Post
Some HD 808 footage from me Ebiking at dusk:

http://www.vimeo.com/25667476
Dave,
great video .. very clear.. the shadows clearly show how little you are pedaling to get the terrific speeds. I'd never use it on the freeway but perhaps could figure out how to get to work with it if not too pricy.. Send us a link Please.. JiMS
jims123 is offline Find More Posts by jims123
Old Jul 01, 2011, 04:41 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2009
456 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
Why bothering converting the format?
Just use another editor, that is capable of H.264 videos.
It is the best to do so to keep as close to the original video quality.
I can think only one reason to convert. So to play on very old PCs.

You can see in the FAQ what editors to use.
I myself use WLMM, Corel VideoStudio Pro and Cyberlink PowerDirector.
Interesting comment as my version of Corel Videostudio Pro x4 will not even import mov files let alone edit them. Are you saying that you can edit mov files directly with this software?

Bill
billhally is offline Find More Posts by billhally
Old Jul 01, 2011, 06:06 AM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
I buy new card, is this good for class 10 ?

Transcend 8GB class 10



??
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jul 01, 2011, 06:11 AM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
And after using SDFormatter I get:
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jul 01, 2011, 06:57 AM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2011
58 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
And after using SDFormatter I get:
It was probably nothing to do with SD formatter and just a differing result. Sometimes the results change slightly from test to test, maybe to do with what your computer was doing at the time. Either way that's more than fast enough for this cam to operate. I have a less fast card with no issues.
coursemyhorse is offline Find More Posts by coursemyhorse
Old Jul 01, 2011, 08:00 AM
Registered User
Denmark, Capital Region of Denmark, Brndbyvester
Joined Jun 2009
617 Posts
I have a cam that I have turned into a zombie. I tried to upgrade to the latest firmware and now my camera seems pretty dead. When I plug it into the usb I get the red light, and that is the only response I can get from my camera.

I have tried to follow these tips but nothing works...well I have not yet cut the power wires inside the camera, but before I do that, I would like to know if there is another solution to bring my camera back to life ?
SpookiePower is online now Find More Posts by SpookiePower
Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:04 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2011
19 Posts
my latest videos:

http://www.harrinkuvat.1g.fi/kuvat/R...retest/Videos/

used three #11 cameras.
HarriK is offline Find More Posts by HarriK
Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:14 AM
a.d.m.i.n
reptor's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
498 Posts
Great but try to upload on vimeo
reptor is offline Find More Posts by reptor
Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:31 AM
Registered User
Austria
Joined Jan 2004
8,068 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
I buy new card, is this good for class 10 ?

Transcend 8GB class 10



??
Even a Class 4 is well enough for the #11 ... Class 10 cost too much for my taste

Tchuss

e_lm_70
e_lm_70 is offline Find More Posts by e_lm_70
Old Jul 01, 2011, 09:55 AM
Registered User
jims123's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
Hey Guys,

I played with the cams this past weekend. It's not RC but I bet you enjoy it.....

Joe
yes! THAT'S AWESOME.. great driving, great video , very stable considering .. and I'm glad you have your own Paramedic Van standing by too..
jims123 is offline Find More Posts by jims123
Old Jul 01, 2011, 10:03 AM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
4,476 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by e_lm_70 View Post
Class 10 cost too much for my taste
Haha - I thought you guys with #11 were the big spenders!!

The Transcend C10 4GB is available at Newegg for $7.49 plus ship. I got one, it benchmarks similar to Reptor test above.
victapilot is offline Find More Posts by victapilot
Old Jul 01, 2011, 12:17 PM
Registered User
Joined May 2011
34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PED View Post
Hey all, in viewing our website's stats I came across this thread and I just wanted to inform that the mount for the 808 style cameras is available outside of the package, here. At current we can't get the cost down until we see a higher demand...

I also just wanted to mention that the $119 package cost includes, the HD #11 camera, 4G memory, Mount and FREE shipping by USPS in US. or the $89 package with the .AVI HD which includes all the items as previously mentioned.

We would invite any comments/suggestions or questions you might have.

Regards,

PED Products
So.....

$24,95 for the mount
$5,50 for 4 GB uSD
$38,50 for the camera

All free shipping.

That leaves $119 - 24,95 - 5,50 - 38,50 = $50,10 for shipping?
wfvn is offline Find More Posts by wfvn
Old Jul 01, 2011, 12:55 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookiePower View Post
I have a cam that I have turned into a zombie. I tried to upgrade to the latest firmware and now my camera seems pretty dead. When I plug it into the usb I get the red light, and that is the only response I can get from my camera.

I have tried to follow these tips but nothing works...well I have not yet cut the power wires inside the camera, but before I do that, I would like to know if there is another solution to bring my camera back to life ?
Did you try re-flashing in the firmware, making sure your camera battery is fully charged when you start, and letting the camera sit untouched until the yellow LED comes back on after starting the flashing operation? And did you erase the firmware file after flashing it in so the camera doesn't keep flashing it in everytime you power up?

The flashing procedure is pretty simple and should work fine if the instructions are followed exactly.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Old Jul 01, 2011, 01:08 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Another Forum Use Heads-up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarriK View Post
my latest videos:

http://www.harrinkuvat.1g.fi/kuvat/R...retest/Videos/

used three #11 cameras.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reptor View Post
Great but try to upload on vimeo
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
yes! THAT'S AWESOME.. great driving, great video , very stable considering .. and I'm glad you have your own Paramedic Van standing by too..
Hi guys,

In case you missed this very recent post, please do not use this forum or encourage others for posting general video links to "what I did last weekend" clips unless it has to do with RC aircraft or showing problems/solutions for using or editing video from the #11HD camera. This is NOT a general video posting forum for other #11 clips. If we can't keep the subject matter on topic here, I will have to close down this support thread.

Thanks.
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jul 01, 2011 at 01:23 PM.
Old Jul 01, 2011, 01:40 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
2,613 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpookiePower View Post
I have a cam that I have turned into a zombie. I tried to upgrade to the latest firmware and now my camera seems pretty dead. When I plug it into the usb I get the red light, and that is the only response I can get from my camera.

I have tried to follow these tips but nothing works...well I have not yet cut the power wires inside the camera, but before I do that, I would like to know if there is another solution to bring my camera back to life ?
Oh dear , there have been sooooo many posts where folks have exactly the same problem. They have been answered and answered again...

Just take your time. A click is a click and not a long press. You must do things slowly. Like Tom says, try a different firmware. When instructions say wait 30 seconds, wait 60 seconds - just to make sure you wait long enough!
Let the camera rest. Try again the following day, but just take things slowly and follow all instructions exactly. One click at a time.
Understand exactly how the camera is supposed to react.

Like I said at the beginning, there really are many, many posts in this thread which handle exactly the same problem that you are having. I would dare to say that 99% were solved. As a supplement to Tom's posting, have you also looked at the "Trouble shooting" chapter at the end of the instruction manual found here?

Take the camera to work with you. Press a button every once in a while. I'm sure your camera will one day come back to life. If not, then you'll have to return it.

BTW, if you search this thread for "bricked" there are currently 144 entries - maybe one will help you.
Isoprop is offline Find More Posts by Isoprop
Old Jul 01, 2011, 02:41 PM
Registered User
Ελλάς, Αττική, Αθήνα
Joined Apr 2011
316 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by billhally View Post
Interesting comment as my version of Corel Videostudio Pro x4 will not even import mov files let alone edit them. Are you saying that you can edit mov files directly with this software?

Bill
Yes, I can.
I also use Videostudio Pro x4 version, and it can import and edit the files.
I have a v2 #11 camera with release 1 firmware, if this makes a difference. It may not, I can`t know as I never have installed release 2 firmware, neither I have a v3 camera.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wfvn View Post
So.....

$24,95 for the mount
$5,50 for 4 GB uSD
$38,50 for the camera

All free shipping.

That leaves $119 - 24,95 - 5,50 - 38,50 = $50,10 for shipping?
I think you miss the part that the camera is sold from USA.
So if you`re a US citizen, I`m not, then you gain:

a) warranty. As you may have seen there are some posts mentioning about the cost to send the camera back to China, wait, wait, wait, and after so much waiting you may get the replacement. I would say that there is no warranty if you get it through China. If you`re lucky it works, if not then you have nothing. It`s like as when you cast the dice.
So here you have no such trouble.

b) faster shipping. I suppose.

c) hand picked. Maybe.

d) seller pays taxes. Like if you had to pay taxes for importing the camera, plus the profit taxes for the sale. So a part of the price is gone to the IRS. I suppose.

I think the phrase that this is an open market and anyone can make his own decisions is the right one.
I myself bought two from China cause there were not sold in my country anyway, and I may did the same if the price difference was big enough to take my risks -as I`m a risky man and then I don`t worry if something goes wrong.
air_crash is offline Find More Posts by air_crash
Closed Thread


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Video Samurai with key cam AeroNut45 Electric Plane Talk 2 Oct 31, 2010 12:40 AM
Found found beladog FPV Equipment (FS/W) 1 Oct 30, 2010 02:01 PM
Discussion Any sign of True real time HD FPV gear....not secondary HD CAM ???!! khaled_abobakr FPV Talk 8 Oct 10, 2010 08:13 AM
Mini-Review Key Chain Cam for your autogyro!!! imsofaman Auto Gyros 7 Sep 10, 2010 08:10 AM