Originally Posted by air_crash

So to see what I`m saying about...

I bought several memory cards recently.
I found that:

Class 4 were fast in the past. When there was no class 10 available but only class 2, 4 and very few 6 then the class 4 was fast.
Cause they put the high quality chips/controllers to them and only class 2 took the inferior ones.
The typical class 2 were above 2MB/s and up to 5MB/s
The typical class 4 were above 6MB/s and up to 9MB/s (some more)

Now that class 10 are widely available, and noone buys class 2, the class 4 are slower, usually at 4.8 to 5MB/s (based on H2testw results).
There is a speed difference at 4K write speed also.
...

What this shows is that the speed class rating only tells you the cards meet a minimum SEQUENTIAL write speed. Many cards are MUCH faster in that category than their speed class rating would suggest.

But, if conventional wisdom is correct, it's the RANDOM write speed that is the most important in shooting video (the 512K and lower rows), and the speed class rating tells us absolutely nothing about that! One of the slower class 4 cards (Sandisk) blows away the rest in that category!

Fortunately, with the #11 the video processor speed is not much of a bottleneck in the recording as it is with the old 808 cameras, so even the slower random write speeds these cards can produce are normally fast enough.

Originally Posted by reptor

Soo you sait the best choice(money-prize) is class 6?

In a few words, yes!

I think class 4 got inferior chips/controllers and today is considered the lowest quality, as class 2 are almost out of production, or tend to be. Today`s class 4 are as fast as class 2 were in the past.
So there is no chance you find a fast class 4 as it was in the past.

Well, for a mobile phone or for a mp3 player (car or mobile), gps, and other devices that use the memory card for read only purposes then class 4 is OK.
As the read speed is good.
But for any other device or purpose that writing speed matters then class 6 should be considered the minimum.
Today I think I prefer class 6 over 10 as most devices I have are SD2.0 compliant than SD3.0. And although SD3.0 is backwards compatible with SD2.0 devices I have the impression that a SD2.0 card is better on such a device, but I may be well wrong as I have only one class 10 tested.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

What this shows is that the speed class rating only tells you the cards meet a minimum SEQUENTIAL write speed. Many cards are MUCH faster in that category than their speed class rating would suggest.

But, if conventional wisdom is correct, it's the RANDOM write speed that is the most important in shooting video (the 4K and lower rows), and the speed class rating tells us absolutely nothing about that! One of the slower class 4 cards (Sandisk) blows away the rest in that category!

Fortunately, with the #11 the video processor speed is not much of a bottleneck in the recording as it is with the old 808 cameras, so even the slower random write speeds these cards can produce are normally fast enough.

Well, the post was meant to be as a comparison to the class rating and its sequential speed, and about a quide of what to buy today, class 4 or better.
Mostly based on H2testw speed test, as it is more accurate and simulates the real world performance.
I did not uploaded the H2testw tests just because the CrystalDiskMark show some more info. There is some difference to the sequential speed between CrystalDiskMark and H2testw results, but it is the same percentage in every one, so it makes no big deal to the comparison.

As for the Sandisk and its good CrystalDiskMark 4K write speed.
They (the 4GB and the 8GB) were not any better than the slowest Toshiba 8GB or the slowest of the Kingston (the 8GB) on a #3. Lots of dropped frames when all the other have a good performance.
Neither formatted at 32K or 4K cluster size.
It was not any better on the #11 camera as well. But it did its job though. Not that the #11 was not happy with them. It is, but I did not liked them as I want a card not just for the #11 only.
So the difference is only present on CrystalDiskMark and nowhere else.

The bad thing is that sequential write speed matters when you select to use the card to any other purpose. As a usb flash disk using a card reader, or in a camera (I mean a photo camera) or any other.
So Sandisk were not so good to keep. I sold them already. So I sold Toshiba and want to sell this Kingston (or use it on my car mp3 player).

Originally Posted by HypoThermia

Hi everyone,
...
Here's an example of the kinds of artefacts that I'm talking about (sorry this isn't an RC related video and has a lot of windnoise). You can see the "ghosting" from the 30fps to 25fps conversion in the green/white armco barriers and the marker cones by the side of the track.
...
I'm left wondering if it is possible to change the framerate recorded by the camera to 25fps so that the problem is tackled at source?

Thanks for any help,

Ian.

Hi Ian,

As to your question about changing the camera's frame rate, there is no way right now for a user to do this. I think the camera could be coaxed into doing this with a firmware toggle, but I doubt that will come to pass since most are viewing these on a PC and want the smoother motion that the 30 fps can provide. In fact, some would like to see 60 fps!

But, I'm curious how the video you posted compares to the the native clip as regards the ghosting you mention? How much better does it look? It looks to me like what you are seeing is more a function of the camera's shutter speed... it is too slow to capture the fast moving objects smoothly, and so is the frame rate for that matter. You can also see this "ghosting" in your clip where the car's forward speed is much slower going around a hairpin turn, but the fast panning of the camera makes trees in the distance look ghosted as they move rapidly across the frame.

The camera shutter speed is variable, controlled by the camera according to the light level. So the same scene in bright sunlight may look better than one shot on a darker overcast day. An extreme case of this can be easily seen by shooting a video inside at night, and seeing how any motion at all becomes very blurred for the same reason (not to mention the camera also drops some frames in that lighting and has some jerky movement from that).

Your conversion from 30 to 25 fps adds some artifacts of it's own if you are dropping frames to keep the same relative time frame and car speed.

Originally Posted by air_crash

...
As for the Sandisk and its good CrystalDiskMark 4K write speed.
They (the 4GB and the 8GB) were not any better than the slowest Toshiba 8GB or the slowest of the Kingston (the 8GB) on a #3. Lots of dropped frames when all the other have a good performance.
...

The #3's biggest bottleneck is the speed of its video processor... it is so slow it does not give even fast cards enough time to consistently write the data before the next frame cycle is ready. I was not able to eliminate the dropped frames with my Transcend CL6 card on my #3 cameras... always have about 7%-10% dropped frames. Fortunately, the #11 does not have this problem except in very low light level (e.g. indoors at night with normal room lighting). Outside on even a very dark overcast day does not result in dropped frames, at least not with the CL6 Transcend cards I use.

My Transcend 4GB CL6 is also good. I would go for it again if I found it at a good price.
The good thing with microSD cards is that you can use them almost anywhere.
One product and you need no other. It can take place as a miniSD, SD, USB flash disk. So there is a job for it even if it does not do the job to the other any more, it is not wasted.

subbed.

Here's a quick clip of the suppply voltage test I promised.

The 3.7v LiPo battery was disconnected for the purpose of the test.

The starting voltage was set at 3.9V (3,899V) and slowly reduced over a period of approximately 30 seconds with the camera recording.

To my suprise, all 35 clips were recorded successfully and written to the memory card (8GB class 6 Trancend), with no errors, despite the camera shutting down due to very low voltage conditions.

You will notice that clock noise starts at just over 3.7V - very faintly, but then increases substansially as the 3.6V point is reached. The camera finally calls it a day, letting out a final gasp at around 3.5V (3.45-3.55V) the average shutdown voltage from 35 tests.

The current consumption remained fairly constant throughout the tests, (it does fluctuate while recording) falling very slightly if anything towards the end, eliminating that fact a buck-boost voltage regulator is used.

Another few figures : the quiescent current consumpion of the camera (off) is 21uA - 21 microamps. The current consumption in standby mode is 140ma - The charging supply voltage is 4.10V at the battery terminals (battery disconected) with a USB supply volatage of 5.05V.

In the next couple of days I'll get around to uploading a video and discussing the audio problem and offer a solution to cure the LF distortion issue.

#11 808 V3 - Supply Voltage Test (0 min 34 sec)

www.youtube.com/timetec if you like interesting stuff

Richard

timetec, your video is private so no one can even watch it.

Thanks for fixing it.

Originally Posted by timetec

Here's a quick clip of the suppply voltage test I promised.
...
Richard

Richard,what firmware is in your camera? Continuous Recording or just Date Removal? Release 1 or Release 2?

For comparison, here's a clip I shot quite some time ago with Release 1 firmware with only the date removed. My camera would not save the second video when the battery died after the first 20 min. S/S/C clip. I captured this by manually timing when I thought the battery was dying, then plugged it into my PC USB port to manually stop and save the recording to see what the camera was doing before the battery died completely and lose the recording. As you can see, there was much breakup of video in addition to the buzzing we still get. The continuous recording firmware allows the video to go until the battery starts getting weak, but stops and saves the recording now before the video breakup begins. I get about 10 minutes of the buzz before the video stops and saves, with no video breakup. I wish there were a way to filter out the buzzing sound.

Low Voltage Test of HD Key Camera (0 min 28 sec)

I'm using a noname class2 4gb card that i got a year or 2 ago and it seems to work perfectly in this keycam.

Originally Posted by timetec

Here's a quick clip of the suppply voltage test I promised.
..
..
In the next couple of days I'll get around to uploading a video and discussing the audio problem and offer a solution to cure the LF distortion issue.

www.youtube.com/timetec if you like interesting stuff

Richard

Richard
yes very interesting.. I'm looking fwd to the update..
was the video of that arc speaker thing shot on a No 11 too? just curious.
Thank you..

Originally Posted by timetec

Here's a quick clip of the suppply voltage test I promised.

The 3.7v LiPo battery was disconnected for the purpose of the test.

The starting voltage was set at 3.9V (3,899V) and slowly reduced over a period of approximately 30 seconds with the camera recording.

To my suprise, all 35 clips were recorded successfully and written to the memory card (8GB class 6 Trancend), with no errors, despite the camera shutting down due to very low voltage conditions.

You will notice that clock noise starts at just over 3.7V - very faintly, but then increases substansially as the 3.6V point is reached. The camera finally calls it a day, letting out a final gasp at around 3.5V (3.45-3.55V) the average shutdown voltage from 35 tests.

The current consumption remained fairly constant throughout the tests, (it does fluctuate while recording) falling very slightly if anything towards the end, eliminating that fact a buck-boost voltage regulator is used.

Another few figures : the quiescent current consumpion of the camera (off) is 21uA - 21 microamps. The current consumption in standby mode is 140ma - The charging supply voltage is 4.10V at the battery terminals (battery disconected) with a USB supply volatage of 5.05V.

In the next couple of days I'll get around to uploading a video and discussing the audio problem and offer a solution to cure the LF distortion issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J25jFf73aHY

www.youtube.com/timetec if you like interesting stuff

Richard

Hey, thanks for the test!
That explains why I couldn't get the camera to work using a 3.3V linear regulator instead of the battery. I thought the voltage may be too low, but I didn't know what was the lower threshold. I suppose 3.7V should be OK.

Did you measure the current consumption while recording? The adjustable SMD regulators I have are good up to 200 or 300 mA if I remember correctly.

A review comparison of the #11 camera and the new HobbyKing Wing Cam

http://rcmodelreviews.com/hobbyking_720p_camera.shtml

Video from the HobbyKing HD 720p "Wing Camera" (1 min 22 sec)

The Wing Cam has a wider lens, but the reviewer doesn't like it nearly as well.

Previous post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4592

Originally Posted by HypoThermia

I'm now at the point where I want to put the video footage onto DVD as a more permanent record (and give to friends who also enjoy the track day activity). I've run into a problem - as I'm in the UK the video standard is PAL 25fps rather than NTSC or the 30fps that the camera produces, and this leads to ghosting during the video conversion process. I've had a search through this thread and can't seem to find it mentioned.

First of all, thanks to everyone who's looked at this and scratched their head over this one. I've now done a bit more research and moved my understanding forward a bit

First of all for YouTube I've found that they take a 30fps video without problem, so I won't even try to change the framerate when preparing a video for that platform. That should solve that problem.

That still leaves the frame interpolation when converting to PAL format. I've found an option on Sony Vegas (the video editing suite I'm using) around resampling, and turning it off seems to help considerably. The resampling blends adjacent frames together, which gives rise to the ghosting effect.

I've yet to look at the final output on DVD and I'll have to make a call on which one does look best when viewed on a TV.

@Tom - I hope the above covers your question as the raw footage shows no sign of the ghosting effect. I've just completed uploading a 30fs version of the same video, and as you can see the camera has behaved superbly

An increase to 50fps would also suite as frames can then be dropped directly - I think the problem really comes down to having firmware that is tailored to NTSC/PAL markets

Cadwell Park - fast lap in an RX8 R3 (2 min 6 sec)

@reptor - I would have thought that a slow card would result in dropped frames in the recorded video? I don't really notice this in the source video (using a class 6 card).

@120ccpm - I suspect that the 25fps videos that look good were recorded in 25fps originally. Not rotating the video doesn't help unfortunately, and I've got to do that anyway because the camera is actually mounted upside down.

@air_crash - I'll drop you a PM with a link to a video you can play with, about 6Mb and very high motion If you do get a chance then many thanks for taking the time out to help a stranger.

@RUDDERLESS - Thanks for the praise! Cadwell Park has become a home circuit for us and I've now been there 3 times. I'm starting to getting to grips with the techniques that are needed to keep the car on the track, but feel I have much to learn! I'm mainly working on improving the nut behind the wheel

Thanks again everyone for your help

I'd still be interested in a 25fps version of the firmware - if it falls within the grace of the powers that be.

Cheers,

Ian.

Originally Posted by timetec

Here's a quick clip of the suppply voltage test I promised.

[snip]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J25jFf73aHY

Richard

Nice video.

But now my story. My (supposedly V3 cam (since the red LED lights up when connected to the supplied adaptor, powered on pin 4) didn't stop buzzing and showing noise in the video when connected to my custom cable. This custom cable had normal USB on one side, an mini USB with 5 pins on the other side where I put a diode between pin 4 and the +5V cable, the 0V connected to pin 5.
The diode is to drop the standard USB voltage with 0,7V to get it somewhere between 4.3 and 4.5V. (again: red LED lights up)

But for some reason this cable doesn't work. When the same camera is connected to the same USB port but this time with another custom cable without the diode, so pin 4 of the mini USB connected directly to +5V of the USB port, the camera works fine.

BTW
My adaptor (supplied with the cam mentioned in this post) gives 4.61V. (when recording and also when it's off)

In other words: a custom cable with pin 4 connected to the + line, connected to standard USB port but voltage lowered by a diode isn't high enough. It seems to me the camera works fine on +5 V of USB, connected to pin 4

I've ordered another set of mini USB plugs to replace the ones I already have but have diodes in them. So my custom cables will be wit pin 4 directly to +5 of USB.

Firstly, sorry if this has been posted before. My #11 which was working perfectly doesn't appear to be charging correctly. The red charge light only comes on for about 10 seconds then nothing. I can leave connected for 45-60 min's and the case stays stone cold. I have tried a number of different leads with no joy. Any ideas?
Head

I have had no problem to date w/my #11 camera, until today. When reviewing my flight vid I noticed that after about 3:30mins the video went into a "slow-mo" type of recording & did so for the remaining 30mins of flight vid. Is this due to battery? Too much data in the card (had about 30 mins of other recording on card)? Card is a 4G class 6.

Thanks! Just looking for a little guidance.
-BG

First of all I would like to thank everybody who has posted info on the 720p Camera 11# 808 and this is definitely the most useful & informative site re these type of cameras. I have recently purchased one of these cameras & it worked fine, recorded well, charged with the car charger, charged with the emergency charger & it also charged with the USB charger. As far as I can work out this was all until I just updated the time & date using the txt file template from this site. Since then it will no longer charge via the USB socket, I have searhed site as best I can for an answer & have tried numerous USB leads including the one supplied, various ports & three PC's, but everything else still works fine. Does anyone have any ideas / help please? (Not the "dont charge it via USB" kind of help) I've already worked that one out. Joking aside keep up the good work on this subject. Thanks.

I always charge at home.. on PC USB and am used to the RED LED going out to tell me when it;s done charging.. But on the special Pin 4 miniUSB that is in the cigarette lighter cable and on other Pin 4 cables I have .. i never see the RED LED come on.. should I assume that the Lipo inside the cam can't charge unless the RED LED is coming ON initially?. I know these cables will keep the cam runing fine as long as they are connected and the external +5 vdc source is is Ok but can they actualluy charge the battery inside the cam even if it is recording just fine or is just sitting idle.. I am sorry .. but never used these to try to recharge like we do on a standard miniUSB so am not sure.. JimS

Nevermind the question on "does it charge when the RED LED remains OFF?" .. i went back and re-read the FAQ and Isoprops Link on the topic, lots of details Thanks!.. I see that the cam will charge the internal Lipo when using a pin 4 special cable even tho the RED Charge LED remains Off.. my only question now is .. ( and it relates to Post 4619 indirectly) is 1.) how can you tell when the cam is fully charged if using a special Pin 4 cable? and 2.) does the No 11 actually charge more slowly At Idle /OFF as suggested in Dee404's reply in 4621 below) when it's on one of these Cigarette Lighter or External +5vdc Lipo special Pin 4 cables.. ( and NOT recording)? anyone know for sure?

Originally Posted by jims123

I always charge at home.. on PC USB and am used to the RED LED going out to tell me when it;s done charging.. But on the special Pin 4 miniUSB that is in the cigarette lighter cable and on other Pin 4 cables I have .. i never see the RED LED come on.. should I assume that the Lipo inside the cam can't charge unless the RED LED is coming ON initially?. I know these cables will keep the cam runing fine as long as they are connected and the external +5 vdc source is is Ok but can they actualluy charge the battery inside the cam even if it is recording just fine or is just sitting idle.. I am sorry .. but never used these to try to recharge like we do on a standard miniUSB so am not sure.. JimS

Jim,
On V1 and V2 cameras the red light won't come on when connected to the car charger supplied. I think it was tested earlier in the thread that the car charger supplied doesn't charge the battery much when the camera is in use and the camera uses the supply from the charger to operate rather than charge to full capacity of the battery and record.

Just tried refocusing my V3 and the lens thread seems to be held by something a lot stronger then the thread lock they use to use. Can't seem to get it to budge at all and I think I've scratched the lens when I slipped with the pliers

Has anyone else had any problems with focusing there V3?

Hey guys. Really hoping someone might be able to help me. I've tried searching in this thread for answers, but it's so massive, I couldn't go through all of it.

Here's the deal: Got my 808 #11 in the mail, tried to do my research, and found some pretty reliable info on how to take the date and time stamp off. Tried the firmware patch, and now the camera won't operate normally. After I tried it, the yellow light would just flash continuously and not do anything. So, I re-installed the ORIGINAL firmware, hoping that might help. The flashing stopped, but now the camera won't record video at all. It'll take photos, and apparently will work as a webcam as well ....but, when I try to record video, the light blinks off like it would be recording, but the device seems to freeze. It doesn't capture video, and I have to hold the power button down, then tap it to turn it back on.

Is it bricked? Did I just pay $40 to take crappy photos from now on? Or can one of you maybe help bring this thing back from the dead? I would REALLY REALLY appreciate any help bringing it back to life to record video again.

I'm not messing with any time/date stamp removal stuff again after this....

Thanks for any help you might be able to give!

Originally Posted by DaggyMAC

Hi guys,
simply because I love gadgets, I've ordered two lenses for cell phones which can be used on ours keyfob HD cameras.
I have attached images from my cell phone (HTC HD2) just for comparsion between lenses, so you can see the difference. If you are not satisfied with view angle of keyfob camera itself and dont want fisheye effect, get the 0,67x wide angle lens.

It looks like you modified the case of the 808 to put the one ring that the lens connects to on the 808 itself. I've seen some others who did a tic-tac type box.

What is the recommended method?

Also how does the jelly wide angle lens compare in quality to this dealextreme 0.67?

Originally Posted by headlessagain

Firstly, sorry if this has been posted before. My #11 which was working perfectly doesn't appear to be charging correctly. The red charge light only comes on for about 10 seconds then nothing. I can leave connected for 45-60 min's and the case stays stone cold. I have tried a number of different leads with no joy. Any ideas?
Head

Well, this is really odd. My perceived charging issues were a result of a series of recordings that ended prematurely with a buzz sound over the recorded sound that occurred every second or so. Then it didn't appear to charge - see above. Had another go at charging so I left the camera plugged in for an hour & again the red light went out after only 10 seconds. I then set the camera up pointing out into the garden to record the pouring rain and checked the footage. 35 min recorded without problems. Plugged in to USB and red light stayed on for a few minutes. Will run some more tests before trusting the cam with any important footage.
Head

Originally Posted by superboringjoe

I'm not messing with any time/date stamp removal stuff again after this....

Thanks for any help you might be able to give!

Where did you get the 2 firmwares from?

At the end I've fixed the broken pad on my donor camera 2 out of 2 cameras are working ! http://g--labs.blogspot.com/


Looking forward to see the new firmware

Originally Posted by headlessagain

Firstly, sorry if this has been posted before. My #11 which was working perfectly doesn't appear to be charging correctly. The red charge light only comes on for about 10 seconds then nothing. I can leave connected for 45-60 min's and the case stays stone cold. I have tried a number of different leads with no joy. Any ideas?
Head

Same here
As a consequence, without external power the camera will only record about 35 seconds then stop.
I have this problem since flashing release 2 firmware, but this might be a coincidence. Too bad we cannot revert to release 1 to test.

Originally Posted by 0xfeedbabef00d

Same here
As a consequence, without external power the camera will only record about 35 seconds then stop.
I have this problem since flashing release 2 firmware, but this might be a coincidence. Too bad we cannot revert to release 1 to test.

I'm beginning to think the battery power problem with my V1 or V2 cam (rather suddenly recorded only 10 minutes) isn't a bad battery but may also be caused by V2 firmware.
Wrong custom cable doesn't seem the cause (which I also had in mind). So that leaves bad battery or firmwareproblem. With my cam it also occurred at about the moment I flashed firmware V2. But if that's the case, I'm rather lucky my cam still records several minutes instead of a few seconds.

Finally got out in some decent weather and record some new video with the HD keychain cam, both mounted on hat and also some onboard video.

Pretty happy with the overall quality of this cam. Wasn't too much contrast shifting even with a fairly bright day with white clouds rolling over at times.

Be sure to click though for 720P versions.

AXN Floater-Jet Onboard Video (6 min 45 sec)

AXN Floater-Jet Maiden (3 min 26 sec)

FMS F4U Maiden (4 min 12 sec)

Originally Posted by Giorg

At the end I've fixed the broken pad on my donor camera 2 out of 2 cameras are working !

Well done, Giorg - an excellent and proffesional repair

Dee404's : your problem in removing the lens.

Remove the PCB from the camera housing and place 2 matchsticks on either side of the cmos camera - make sure the matchstick on the ribbon-cable side does not overlap the cable. Just so it sits on the black plastic casing.
I used 'blu tack', but you can use a spot of low-tack glue as well.
Position the camera in a vice as show in the picture - tighten it until it is held snuggly, no more ! - the lens serated surround should be proud of the top of the vice. Bend the microphone back towards the PCB if you need more clearance.

Pliers : look around for a small pair with a circular grip of around 6-7mm internal diameter - something that will mate nicely and securely with the lens surround ridges.

Position the pliers carefully and centrally around the lens and use a small side-to-side motion, until you hear a 'cracking' noise. At the time it sounds terminal, but it's just the thread-lock adhesive fracturing. Continue with the rocking motion until you get to a point where the lens can be full unscrewed.

Hope this helps !

Originally Posted by timetec

Well done, Giorg - an excellent and proffesional repair

Dee404's : your problem in removing the lens.

Remove the PCB from the camera housing and place 2 matchsticks on either side of the cmos camera - make sure the matchstick on the ribbon-cable side does not overlap the cable. Just so it sits on the black plastic casing.
I used 'blu tack', but you can use a spot of low-tack glue as well.
Position the camera in a vice as show in the picture - tighten it until it is held snuggly, no more ! - the lens serated surround should be proud of the top of the vice. Bend the microphone back towards the PCB if you need more clearance.

Pliers : look around for a small pair with a circular grip of around 6-7mm internal diameter - something that will mate nicely and securely with the lens surround ridges.

Position the pliers carefully and centrally around the lens and use a small side-to-side motion, until you hear a 'cracking' noise. At the time it sounds terminal, but it's just the thread-lock adhesive fracturing. Continue with the rocking motion until you get to a point where the lens can be full unscrewed.

Hope this helps !

Thanks, nice little guide that.

I was just using two pairs of pliers, the one on the lens screw slipped and has taken a chunk out the lens its self. I'll try and get a pic of it later.

On the cameras I had be for (V2) I picked of all the thread lock and managed to work the lens screw loose but on this one it seems well and truly stuck. I try it your way in the morning.

here is some video shot with a class 10 memory card

fpv powered dragon link low flying fpv (2 min 0 sec)

@ROCKY2 you are crazy So you use "808 car keys micro camera." with class 10 memory card?

Originally Posted by reptor

@ROCKY2 you are crazy So you use "808 car keys micro camera." with class 10 memory card?

ya but i havent noteced a diference betwen the class 4 and 10

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

here is some video shot with a class 10 memory card http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr0bo8g-h1w

Good flying, but not very smart. Also, this is not a #11HD cam video (it does not have video out for FPV flying) and we would expect a CL10 to do no more or no less than a good CL6 or CL4 with the #11, so it is off topic. Please keep your videos posted here relative to the #11HD camera. Thanks.

For these reason I asked him strange to have on camera for 8$ video out

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

Good flying, but not very smart. Also, this is not a #11HD cam video (it does not have video out for FPV flying) and we would expect a CL10 to do no more or no less than a good CL6 or CL4 with the #11, so it is off topic. Please keep your videos posted here relative to the #11HD camera. Thanks.

its not wideo out i have two camaras on the plane duh no offense

Originally Posted by reptor

For these reason I asked him strange to have on camera for 8$ video out

i paid 48 for it not 8 dollars it is a #11 or i wouldent of posted it

Can you make then some pictures of your "system"

here is a pick of the plane

Originally Posted by reptor

Can you make then some pictures of your "system"

already ahead of you

Now I see why the FAA is trying to control model airplane flying..

Most videos posted here are hosted on YouTube. I'd like to suggest using Vimeo.com instead. Why you may ask?

• YouTube does not display in full 1280x720 frame size, even when the "expand" button is clicked. When "full screen button" is clicked, the video is larger than 1280x720 pixels on a large monitor... too big, making the video look less detailed and blurry. With Vimeo, you still have those same options, but in full screen mode there is a button to "turn scaling off". Click that and the video is displayed in it's native 1280x720 frame size.
• YouTube has too many users and not enough bandwidth (720p video is more prone to stalling and stuttering).
• Vimeo has (arguably) better quality in their 1280x720 Flash Player re-encoding.
• YouTube video cannot be download in the uploaded format. Vimeo allows your upload to be downloaded in it's original form for up to one week after uploading, but only if you toggle permission to do so. This allows others to download your clip to see it in the best quality, and to analyze the video to help troubleshoot quality problems.
• Vimeo does not have the "music police" to trap and delete or replace recognizable music tracks you add to your video. But it's always proper to identify and give credit in your videos to any music you add, especially if it's not in the public domain.

Vimeo has a 500MB per week free upload limit, and only one HD upload per week will be rendered as a 1280x720 HD clip. You can upload more (up to the 500MB limit), but they will not be rendered in 720p resolution. There is a paid upgrade service available to bypass these limitations if desired.

<EDIT> This post gives a bit more detail on manipulating the toggles for the features mention above on Vimeo. <EDIT>

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

its not wideo out i have two camaras on the plane duh no offense

OK... but that was not mentioned in your post, your video, or comments posted on YouTube, so no way for anyone to tell!

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

OK... but that was not mentioned in your post, your video, or comments posted on YouTube, so no way for anyone to tell!

well okay.....

Originally Posted by 0xfeedbabef00d

Same here
As a consequence, without external power the camera will only record about 35 seconds then stop.
I have this problem since flashing release 2 firmware, but this might be a coincidence. Too bad we cannot revert to release 1 to test.

I think it is likely a coincidence, but you still can flash in the Release 1 firmware to check the charging function. The camera will still work, only the video frame size might be smaller than normal or have a different aspect ratio. You can flash back in Release 2 firmware to restore normal operation afterwards.

Rocky - Fun Video. I was hoping for a 'touch and go' on the semi truck at 34 seconds.

Originally Posted by zrobbie

Rocky - Fun Video. I was hoping for a 'touch and go' on the semi truck at 34 seconds.

yeah it would have been a touch and go really far haha

Does anyone have a link to a reliable seller who has the latest version of the #11 Jumbo V3 for sale?

Originally Posted by Isoprop

OK, it's been almost two weeks since you posted your message, and I've been dabbling a bit... felt like writing something for fun...
Lol - hoist on my own petard
Thanks - works a treat, just what this old befuddled mind needed - even the 57 second wait give me time to think what to do next

Is this what you mean by W I B N I ? Maybe even a larger count down?
Larger as in where did I leave my reading glasses or Larger as in I need time to find the paper that tells me what I was doing staring at the screen counting down?
This is a working gimmick, extremely simple, no clock, no user input, just two clicks. I wrote this program to try and get the camera clock synchronized to the second, but I'm still having problems... I think the camera ignores the seconds. I've wasted too much time testing and have given up for the time being - maybe later...
There - you see why dev programmers hate Wouldn't It Be Nice If requests

Thank you. It now lives in royal splendour on my desk top.
Mike

Originally Posted by Justin Stuart

Does anyone have a link to a reliable seller who has the latest version of the #11 Jumbo V3 for sale?

Me too need

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

i paid 48 for it not 8 dollars it is a #11 or i wouldent of posted it

Can you please post link from shop(ebay) to this cam?

I just got a #11 camera today from eletoponline365. I tried powering it up and no light. I plugged it into my usb for an hour and it had a red light on. When I unplugged it and tried to turn it on there was still no light again. Also when its plugged into my usb my pc is not recognizing any removable storage or anything. I tried holding the reset for a few seconds, but still nothing. I have a kingston 4gb class 4 SDHC card in it.

Did they just send me a broken camera? Or is there something I can do?

Press the button to turn the camera on while it is plugged into the USB on your computer. Does the yellow light come on? Does the computer see the camera?

Tom,
in all your free time ..
could you comment to post 4619 and 4620 above? V/r JimS

Originally Posted by mclarkson

Press the button to turn the camera on while it is plugged into the USB on your computer. Does the yellow light come on? Does the computer see the camera?

I tried that it didn't work at first, but then it finally did. Thank you!

Originally Posted by reptor

Me too need



Can you please post link from shop(ebay) to this cam?

ya here you go oops it was $40 my bad http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Hello all

This is a follow-up to post #4371 on page 292 addressing the problems many users have had with 'clipping' audio (sharp clicks and pops) when recording with the 808 #11.
It is caused due to variations in low-frequency air pressure, and is normally encountered in a moving car enviroment or caused by wind (in flight on a RC plane for example).

I'll split this into two posts, starting with a description of the nine pictures shown in the collage attached to this post.

1 This is a diagram of the electret microphone circuit, showing the biasing, decoupling and supply splitting arrangement.
You will notice the very high value of the microphone decoupling capacitor : 1.5uf (circled in red) - this is what we need to change.

2 A close-up of the PCB showing the location of the components depicted in the circuit diagram, figure 1.
These are outlined in the same colours for easy reference / identification.

3 A size comparision of the 1.5uf capacitor against a peppercorn and a grain of sugar.

4 Measuring the value of the audio decoupling capacitor using a digital capacitance meter - coming in at a huge 1.504uf.
This value is excessive in the extreme and will allow very low frequency and sub-sonic audio to be amplified and digitised, causing clipping.

5 & 6 The 1.5uf capacitor was removed and two single wire stands were seperated from an off-cut of hookup wire.
Holding the PVC sleeving, these were then soldered to points A and B (see figure 2), so I could test different values.

7 This shows a test capacitor soldered in place - in this instance, a 470nf was been 'auditioned'.

8 & 9 Showing the finally selected value of 220nf soldered in place on the PCB - plus the addition of a small jumper wire.
I decided to use a phsically larger capacitor than the original type, because I couldn't find one that small and even if I could find one, I wouldn't be able to solder it in place !

In the next post is a description of the test, the different capacitor values tested and the results, plus two videos - before and after.

Richard

All these tests below were performed using a 18Hz Sine Wave signal generator and 50W Subwoofer.
The position of the camera and volume level remained constant throughout each test.

1.0uf No real change - clipping still evident, perhaps not quite as severe.
470nf Good improvement - clipping present but much reduced.
220nf No noticable clipping.
100nf No clipping - starting to loose LF response.
47nf No clipping - little if no LF response - perfect for speech / dictation.
22nf Little midrange and no LF - tinny, 'transistor radio' quality.

So, I settled on 220nf - you could possibly get away with a 470nf, but this largely depends on the enviroment it would be used in.

The two audio clips - 18Hz Sine Wave / close proximity.

The first demonstrates the clipping using the original 1.5uf capacitor as factory fitted.

The second video uses a 220nf surface-mount ceramic capacitor.

#11 808 V3 - Original 1.5uf Audio Decoupling Capacitor - 18Hz Sine (0 min 32 sec)

#11 808 V3 - 220nf Audio Decoupling Capacitor - 18Hz Sine (0 min 18 sec)

Richard

Hello everyone, I have the V3 #11 with the firmware, "Continuous Recording & Remove Time". I'm using a Sandisk 16gb class 4 card. I'm using my camera on a motorcycle with the 12V plug. Red LED still lights up to indicate charging and the problem I'm having and I'm hoping someone here can help with, is once the camera records 4gb of film, it shuts off. I does not continue to record until card is full. Isn't the firmware suppose to record 4gb, save, then continue to record? Thank you for your time and help.
Kent

Originally Posted by timetec

..
220nf No noticable clipping.

Richard

Dear Dr. 808 AudioSpecialist..
as newly appointed guru.. I must ask: will this mod help reduce the clipping I'm getting when standing in the wind, or talking too loud when shooting from under the Brim of a ball cap?.. if so, what would you charge to do it on a No 11 and replace the battery at the same time? where are you located?

Final question.. what is the impact on the audio clicks and beeps when you install this cap and the camera enters a low voltage threshold.. I'm assuming this Mic mod has no effect on that problem? correct? can you get some BEFORE /AFTER Video of the mod while flying it on a plane (ideally a slope glider?)?

Originally Posted by jaccies

Where did you get the 2 firmwares from?

I got the firmwares from Techmoan's blog, who claims to have downloaded them from the RC Forums, which is how I found this great thread. The camera is recognized as a webcam when plugged in, can take photographs, but still seems to just freeze up when I try to take video. The light blinks as if it would be recording, but it doesn't, and I keep having to hold down the power button, then tap it repeatedly for it to come back on.

One thing I noticed ... when I power on the camera, it lights up, then the yellow light blinks off for a second, then stays on. Could it possibly be trying to reflash every time I turn it on? I've formatted the memory card since, and tried a brand new memory card, and still got the same thing.

Originally Posted by superboringjoe

I got the firmwares from Techmoan's blog, who claims to have downloaded them from the RC Forums, which is how I found this great thread.

Someone unfortunately removed the previous firmware from this site which is causing lots of confusion to people who have not read through all the posts in this thread to see why or who have discovered this camera somewhere else on the web and then came here. The firmware on this site is different from that on other sites. Try re-downloading from the link in post 3 and flashing that.

Originally Posted by Justin Stuart

Does anyone have a link to a reliable seller who has the latest version of the #11 Jumbo V3 for sale?

Post #2 in this thread has eight of them!

Originally Posted by jims123

Tom,
in all your free time ..
could you comment to post 4619 and 4620 above? V/r JimS

If you have a v1 or v2 #11, you have no indication of when the battery is fully charged when charging via the car charger or another external charger with the special plug, unless you are using the emergency charger accerssory, which has it's own charging LED. You can time the charge and go from that but that is not a positive indicator. I guess that's why the v3 was designed.

The use of the timeset.txt file should have no effect on the charging.

Originally Posted by xamindar

Someone unfortunately removed the previous firmware from this site which is causing lots of confusion to people who have not read through all the posts in this thread to see why or who have discovered this camera somewhere else on the web and then came here. The firmware on this site is different from that on other sites. Try re-downloading from the link in post 3 and flashing that.

Xamindar, thank you VERY VERY much for the help! It worked like a charm and the camera is now back to full function and without date and time stamp! You have simultaneously lifted the malaise of feeling like I wasted $40 AND restored my faith in humanity! Again, thanks a ton. Appreciated muy bunches.

Originally Posted by jims123

Dear Dr. 808 AudioSpecialist..
as newly appointed guru.. I must ask: will this mod help reduce the clipping I'm getting when standing in the wind, or talking too loud when shooting from under the Brim of a ball cap?.. if so, what would you charge to do it on a No 11 and replace the battery at the same time? where are you located?

Final question.. what is the impact on the audio clicks and beeps when you install this cap and the camera enters a low voltage threshold.. I'm assuming this Mic mod has no effect on that problem? correct? can you get some BEFORE /AFTER Video of the mod while flying it on a plane (ideally a slope glider?)?

Reduce clipping when standing in the wind ? - YES, it will reduce clipping, if not eliminate it completely.

Talking too loudly / shouting - If you bawl into the mic, the sound will DISTORT and the sound level will LIMIT, but it shouldn't clip.

I'm in England, so not really an option, but would do if it was worth my while. I'm sure you there are others closer to you that could help.

The effect this mod has on low voltage 'threshold' microprocessor noise...
Sorry, it won't make any difference. This is not a mic / audio related issue, and is caused directly by the microprocessor / DSC clock.

Can I get some video before / after flying a plane ? - No, I don't have a plane but do have a car and can hold it out the window!

Richard

Originally Posted by xamindar

Someone unfortunately removed the previous firmware from this site which is causing lots of confusion to people who have not read through all the posts in this thread to see why or who have discovered this camera somewhere else on the web and then came here. The firmware on this site is different from that on other sites. Try re-downloading from the link in post 3 and flashing that.

I removed the obsolete Release 1 firmware, because it is obsolete. And I posted a note in the FAQs page why it was removed. People don't need to read all the posts... they just need to follow the instructions in the title of this thread: "Answers to most questions in Post #1-#3". I can't help it if they don't take the time to do it!

Originally Posted by Kent2406

Hello everyone, I have the V3 #11 with the firmware, "Continuous Recording & Remove Time". I'm using a Sandisk 16gb class 4 card. I'm using my camera on a motorcycle with the 12V plug. Red LED still lights up to indicate charging and the problem I'm having and I'm hoping someone here can help with, is once the camera records 4gb of film, it shuts off. I does not continue to record until card is full. Isn't the firmware suppose to record 4gb, save, then continue to record? Thank you for your time and help.
Kent

This is answered in the FAQs link to the firmware in post #3.

Time to break up the test gear and electron microscopes. Here are a couple of video from a hatcam HD #11 Keycam of turbine jets. The first had to belly land because the gear did not deploy (air leak). I edited it in Video Pad editor and deshaked before editing. The output is mpeg and the file size is very ly small because it doesn't make much of a difference with Youtube anyway. Video Pad also allows you to crop and zoom the "dots in the sky." Yes, it pixelates, but I don't care. For $40, it is quite the little camera.

Jim Smith Panther GEAR prob_6-11- 11.mpg (3 min 31 sec)

The second is of a turbine ELAN that's real fast. Almost too fast (close to 200 mph) and I had to use slow motion to show one scene. It's really short.

Jack Kezelian's Elan_6-11-11 (1 min 39 sec)

Originally Posted by timetec

Reduce clipping when standing in the wind ? - YES, it will reduce clipping, if not eliminate it completely.
...
Richard

To be clear, the wind noise will still be heard, right?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

This is answered in the FAQs link to the firmware in post #3.

Are you referring to this?
2. Continuous Recording & Remove Time: , and enables recording to continue without stopping until the flash memory card is full or the 4GB file size limit of the FAT32 file system is reached. The latter will save then continue recording.

This was all I could find and like I said, it doesn't continue to record after it saves a 4gb file size. Am I not reading it right? Thank you for your help.

Originally Posted by timetec

3 A size comparision of the 1.5uf capacitor against a peppercorn and a grain of sugar.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

To be clear, the wind noise will still be heard, right?

Yes, Tom - the wind noise will still be heard, but without the 'pops and clicks'.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

To be clear, the wind noise will still be heard, right?

Piece of foam around the mic will help to soften the wind noise.

Originally Posted by Kent2406

Are you referring to this?
2. Continuous Recording & Remove Time: , and enables recording to continue without stopping until the flash memory card is full or the 4GB file size limit of the FAT32 file system is reached. The latter will save then continue recording.

This was all I could find and like I said, it doesn't continue to record after it saves a 4gb file size. Am I not reading it right? Thank you for your help.

I was referring to this page that is linked in the FAQs in Post #3:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3531

The part you quoted is there, and that is the way the firmware was supposed to work. But unfortunately, it does not and will be fixed. If you read the note under the firmware file icon where you download the file, it says the recording stops after the first 4GB file is saved. I guess I missed changing the description in the body of the post. I'll change it. Sorry for the confusion.

Originally Posted by _Sergey_

Piece of foam around the mic will help to soften the wind noise.

Yes... I was just getting clarification that the capacitor mod would not eliminate the wind noise altogether... some might have interpreted it that way. I mute or really diminish wind/motor noise in my aerial vids, so it's not a big issue for that use.

Bought 3 units of this camera last week and i've removed the stamp date from 2 of it. I thought already ruined both after 1 hour of struggling to turn it on. I have to cut the battery wire, disconnect and reconnect several time then only suddenly it turning on.

This is the worst firmware update method i've ever experienced. IMO, manufacturer must do something on this one.

Thanks to Tom for your "do not panic" words on your earlier post. It really help me. BTW, this camera is worth to buy.

Originally Posted by Meez

Bought 3 units of this camera last week and i've removed the stamp date from 2 of it. I thought already ruined both after 1 hour of struggling to turn it on. I have to cut the battery wire, disconnect and reconnect several time then only suddenly it turning on.

This is the worst firmware update method i've ever experienced. IMO, manufacturer must do something on this one.

Thanks to Tom for your "do not panic" words on your earlier post. It really help me. BTW, this camera is worth to buy.

I'm really surprised there seems to be many having trouble flashing in the firmware. I've done it dozens of times, both with original Release 1 firmware and new release 2 firmware, and have had smooth sailing. I have no idea what the difference might be other than pushing buttons too soon or something. Did you get the yellow LED turn on after flashing in the firmware? If not, did you first connect to the PC USB and turn on the camera? Are you using the Release 2 firmware from this thread?

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

The part you quoted is there, and that is the way the firmware was supposed to work. But unfortunately, it does not and will be fixed. If you read the note under the firmware file icon where you download the file, it says the recording stops after the first 4GB file is saved. I guess I missed changing the description in the body of the post. I'll change it. Sorry for the confusion.

Oh I see, yeah I didn't read that part. Sorry for that and thank you again Tom, 1. for this entire thread and what you are doing and 2. for answering me so quickly.
Kent

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I'm really surprised there seems to be many having trouble flashing in the firmware. I've done it dozens of times, both with original Release 1 firmware and new release 2 firmware, and have had smooth sailing. I have no idea what the difference might be other than pushing buttons too soon or something. Are you using the Release 2 firmware from this thread?

I'm a newbie to these cameras but followed your directions to the "T" and it worked the first time, no problem at all.
Kent

I agree with Bill the Prof, too many shots of meters and oscilloscopes and stuff

Here's some excitement I had today starting at 3:25 of the vid. #11 keyfob video starts at 30 secs but I had to mix an fpv recording in at the start.

Read the description of the video for a little more info and watch full screen if you can.

We're all going to DIE !!!! (4 min 31 sec)

Yabba

Originally Posted by yabbadaba2

I agree with Bill the Prof, too many shots of meters and oscilloscopes and stuff

Here's some excitement I had today starting at 3:25 of the vid. #11 keyfob video starts at 30 secs but I had to mix an fpv recording in at the start.

Read the description of the video for a little more info and watch full screen if you can.

http://www.vimeo.com/25054488

Yabba

Yabba,

That was exhausting. In the beginning I thought you were going to nail that light pole but you masterfully flew to the left. Successful landing. Nice job.

Bill

I just received two new cams from one of the approved dealers on page 1. These are my 2nd and 3rd HD cams. One of them, however, has a problem: the computer doesn't see it.

It acts fine in every way. It turns on and off. It records. When I plug it into the PC - on a known good USB cable - the red LED comes on. When I press power, the yellow LED comes on. But the computer doesn't see it.

I've tried changing out the memory card. No joy. I can put a memory card in it, record a scene, put that memory card into another camera, plug it in and read it. But the PC just doesn't acknowledge that the problem cam is there.

It seems like the USB connection on this camera might be bad although, as I said, the camera red LED comes on when I plug it in, so the power's coming through at least.

Any ideas? None of the problems on page #1 really sound like my problem.

It sounds like the usb plug of the camera has a problem, as you said.
I would try another cable, even if this works on some other cameras, and plug it directly to the motherboard, not in the front USB of the case.
Using no extension cable.

Originally Posted by mclarkson

I just received two new cams from one of the approved dealers on page 1. These are my 2nd and 3rd HD cams. One of them, however, has a problem: the computer doesn't see it.

It acts fine in every way. It turns on and off. It records. When I plug it into the PC - on a known good USB cable - the red LED comes on. When I press power, the yellow LED comes on. But the computer doesn't see it.

I've tried changing out the memory card. No joy. I can put a memory card in it, record a scene, put that memory card into another camera, plug it in and read it. But the PC just doesn't acknowledge that the problem cam is there.

It seems like the USB connection on this camera might be bad although, as I said, the camera red LED comes on when I plug it in, so the power's coming through at least.

Any ideas? None of the problems on page #1 really sound like my problem.

If the same PC port and cable works fine with the other two cameras, then they should be OK. It could be a dirty, bent, or broken data pin on the mini-USB connector. Have you tried the webcam mode yet? If webcam mode works, then the USB plug data lines in the camera are working. If you can't get into web cam mode either, try cleaning the pins in the camera USB plug. Wet the cable end contacts with alcohol, or better yet, Corrosion-X, and repeatedly insert/extract the plug a number of times to see if that helps.

Originally Posted by timetec

..: but do have a car and can hold it out the window!

Richard

Richard,
Thanks for your fine effort on clarifying the source, and reducing the problem.. Good Show. generally i'm not really yelling at my buddies but the wind and ambient noise at the distance they are from the mic relative to me under the hat is just too much for the MIC to handle conversations without considerable distortion. I may just mod one and see.. since I'm pretty sure I'll need to replace the lipo in one or two fairly soon anyway.. Thanks Again..

I've never used ANY of my cameras in webcam mode, so I'm not sure what I ought to be seeing.

My instructions say press and hold both buttons while plugging into the PC. I do this and get a blinking LED: yellow - red - yellow - red.

Again, my computer gives no indication that it sees the device out there.

I'm using the same USB port and cable that I use for all six of my cameras, HD and not. I have had charging problems before going thru a hub, so I don't do that anymore.

No luck with the alcohol.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

If you have a v1 or v2 #11, you have no indication of when the battery is fully charged when charging via the car charger or another external charger with the special plug, unless you are using the emergency charger accerssory, which has it's own charging LED. You can time the charge and go from that but that is not a positive indicator. I guess that's why the v3 was designed.

The use of the timeset.txt file should have no effect on the charging.

Tom,
thanks, i used all three cams to cover several RC sailboat races this weekend and find I myself restarting the cam over and over after the one or two long runs, This should be expected i guess .. but not after just 2o to 30 mins as it is now on a couple of them.. I suppose I'll need to rig the pin 4 Ext battery connector to avoid this, and record while the Ext Lipo is plugged in. The audio beeps are irritating and I cant really tell if the things have properly recharged doing it in the field. the Jumbo coming may bypass the problem for a while.. one thing is certain i never thought I'd be taking so MUCH video on these silly little cams but they are so convenient by comparison to a real camcorder.

Originally Posted by mclarkson

I've never used ANY of my cameras in webcam mode, so I'm not sure what I ought to be seeing.

My instructions say press and hold both buttons while plugging into the PC. I do this and get a blinking LED: yellow - red - yellow - red.

Again, my computer gives no indication that it sees the device out there.

I'm using the same USB port and cable that I use for all six of my cameras, HD and not. I have had charging problems before going thru a hub, so I don't do that anymore.

No luck with the alcohol.

When you said the camera is not recognized, I guess you don't get the audible tone the PC normally gives either when it loads the driver for the removeable memory? Sounds like it's back to the vendor on that one!

Yep. No tone, and a check of drives and devices shows that nothing new has appeared.

Originally Posted by yabbadaba2

I agree with Bill the Prof, too many shots of meters and oscilloscopes and stuff

Here's some excitement I had today starting at 3:25 of the vid. #11 keyfob video starts at 30 secs but I had to mix an fpv recording in at the start.

Read the description of the video for a little more info and watch full screen if you can.

http://www.vimeo.com/25054488

Yabba

What hardware you use for FPV? This #11 Key Cam and what else? How do you connect if this cam doesn't have video OUT?

Originally Posted by mclarkson

My instructions say press and hold both buttons while plugging into the PC. I do this and get a blinking LED: yellow - red - yellow - red.

Again, my computer gives no indication that it sees the device out there.

Try this procedure (leave the cable attached between the camera and the PC) :

Briefly press the rear button to switch the camera on as normal.

Usually, the yellow LED blinks twice before it enters standby or file transfer mode (as when connected to a PC).

As soon as the LED comes on for the first time, press & hold the front button down for 4 seconds - longer is OK.

It will flicker a few times, go out and glow steadily again - you have forced the camera into webcam mode.

Attached is VmCam, a small 'AmCap' variation for testing your camera / webcam.

I'm going to 'lie low' now - agreed, far too much boring technical stuff, advice and pictures...

Good luck all, Richard

Hmmm... That worked. And my first test of it afterwards, without the tricky timing, worked as well.

So thanks! I'm still not sure what's going on here, but it worked twice. That's a big improvement.

Hi friends,

Just say thank you for this thread, which is amazing.
I got a 808 #11 camera and it is a really great.

My planes are parked now, but I uhave used it for airsoft, so I mounted it over my G36K airsoft rifle and this is the result. Edited with iMovie.

Enjoy . Cheers

AIRSOFT CQB GEARS 12-6-2011 (1 min 56 sec)

Originally Posted by baxter

Hi friends,

Just say thank you for this thread, which is amazing.
I got a 808 #11 camera and it is a really great.

My planes are parked now, but I uhave used it for airsoft, so I mounted it over my G36K airsoft rifle and this is the result. Edited with iMovie.

Enjoy . Cheers

http://www.vimeo.com/25031974

Nice vid - nice edit, and boy to you guys take airsoft seriously

Originally Posted by reptor

What hardware you use for FPV? This #11 Key Cam and what else? How do you connect if this cam doesn't have video OUT?

Can anyone answer on this?

thanks

Originally Posted by timetec

I'm going to 'lie low' now - agreed, far too much boring technical stuff, advice and pictures...

Please don't be discouraged by the non-techies .
I, for one, find your tests just as interesting as the flight videos and thank you for sharing. For me, they are not boring at all! - Actually they are quite exciting!

I would do the capacitor swap without hesitation, but since I don't want any sound on my videos there's not much point! Also, I would first have to buy a "book" (set) of SMD capacitors to play with.

I also love you supply voltage test!

Your tests help us understand the #11 much better and maybe even inspire the manufacturer.

OK, I guess we're in the minority here... ... but should you make any other amazing #11 tests, please do post the results.

Originally Posted by mclarkson

A review comparison of the #11 camera and the new HobbyKing Wing Cam..

The Wing Cam has a wider lens, but the reviewer doesn't like it nearly as well.

Thanks for posting the comparison.. it nice to see the differences side by side that way.. I'd vote for the No 11 too.. Did not realize you could grow bamboo in Kansas either JimS

Originally Posted by Isoprop

Please don't be discouraged by the non-techies .
I, for one, find your tests just as interesting as the flight videos and thank you for sharing. For me, they are not boring at all! - Actually they are quite exciting!

I would do the capacitor swap without hesitation, but since I don't want any sound on my videos there's not much point! Also, I would first have to buy a "book" (set) of SMD capacitors to play with.

I also love you supply voltage test!

Your tests help us understand the #11 much better and maybe even inspire the manufacturer.

OK, I guess we're in the minority here... ... but should you make any other amazing #11 tests, please do post the results.

ditto.. I feel exactly as Iso does.. please don't give up.. I'd like to see more tests and mods.. for sure.. JimS