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Old May 25, 2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I'd be interested in how you determined the camera has a USB 1.1 port?
The first hint was that every time I plugged the camera into a Windows PC, I got a popup stating "This device can perform faster if you connect it to a High-Speed USB 2.0 port". And yes Tom, before you assume it, I tried with different usb cables and on two different computers, all gave the same result, and yes, both computers are fairly new and do not contain anything less than USB 2.0 speed ports.
The second hint that my camera was running at USB 1.1 speeds was the obvious USB 1.1 transfer speed I was getting and that I was unable to play video files smoothly straight from the camera. Granted, playback wasn't as severe as wheelspinner20 experienced, but it was enough to be annoying.
But as I have already returned my camera for a replacement because of an unrelated issue and am currently waiting for a new one to arrive, I am unable to test anything further.
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Old May 25, 2011, 01:15 PM
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The first hint was that every time I plugged the camera into a Windows PC, I got a popup stating "This device can perform faster if you connect it to a High-Speed USB 2.0 port". And yes Tom, before you assume it, I tried with different usb cables and on two different computers, all gave the same result, and yes, both computers are fairly new and do not contain anything less than USB 2.0 speed ports.
The second hint that my camera was running at USB 1.1 speeds was the obvious USB 1.1 transfer speed I was getting and that I was unable to play video files smoothly straight from the camera. Granted, playback wasn't as severe as wheelspinner20 experienced, but it was enough to be annoying.
But as I have already returned my camera for a replacement because of an unrelated issue and am currently waiting for a new one to arrive, I am unable to test anything further.

Actually that error message would determine the exact opposite. That message will only appear when the device you are plugging in is a USB 2.0 device and it is being plugged into a slower port. As you said, the error was "This device can perform faster if you connect it to a High-Speed USB 2.0 port". How could the device run faster in a 2.0 port if it is a 1.1 device.

Now, granted, this could be due to a malfunction in the device itself or the cable, but most often it is that the current port is indeed less than 2.0 USB

Now there are a couple possibilities for why the port is not capable of 2.0. The first is obviously that the port is lower than 2.0, but from the sounds of things, the computers used are more than likely new enough that the ports are capable of USB 2.0. The most common reason this error shows up for people is that the USB or chipset drivers for your motherboard are either not correctly installed, or not installed at all. That would mean default drivers are being used for USB, which are almost always only 1.1 compliant, so even if the ports themselves are 2.0, they won't run like they are. This is incredibly common on home build machines, and machines where the user has reinstalled windows themselves.

The most telling thing will be when you get your new camera. That will tell you first and foremost if the message came from a malfunction in the device, or the 2 computers you used need some driver updates.
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Old May 25, 2011, 01:31 PM
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Actually, more than likely the camera reports its self as a USB 2.0 device but was only running at USB 2.0 full speed which is the same speed as the slower USB 1.1. Or what is probably the case is it was just a bum camera with a USB issue that somehow caused Windows to spout that message. I recommend you ask the vendor to send you the camera I had so you can do some tests to prove whatever it is you registered to argue about as I don't see the point.
Or did you really think this camera was the only USB device I have ever tried on my two computers?
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Old May 25, 2011, 01:49 PM
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I myself have no problem to stream video from the camera to the player (I use mostly VLC for the #11). On both cameras I have.
On the other hand I have used many thin cables that do not let the camera to run at USB2.0 (and windows reports the fault).
I have also many cables that won`t even make a connection but only charge the camera.
One cable even if the led shows charging it won`t charge at all...

I have so many different cables because I have so many cameras from different versions and vendors.

One other thing is that your PC may have front USB connectors. Those connectors often run out of a thin cable. Other devices may run happy, other not.

Another thing is that a motherboard may use the +5V for the USB or the +5VSB.
Which means that in one occasion the 5V are supplied through motherboard`s regulated supply for the USB and on the other through the PSU`s 5V output. (I can`t recall if +5V is motherboard`s and +5VSB is PSU`s or the opposite but I think it is in this order).
Now the PSU or the motherboard may have a weak 5V supply for the USB. Not so rare, it happens. Especially when you run multiple USB devices.
Power problem will not let the device to run at full (high) speed.

Do not use a USB hub. Do not use a USB extension cable.

The main point is you should be able to watch videos through the USB connection of the camera.


PS. Except of the driver conflicts and/or other OS conflicts that was mentioned earlier.
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Old May 25, 2011, 01:53 PM
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That is a very good point. I have also noticed that certain hubs will not even put out +5V. One of my hubs, a batery powered one, which I use for a PDA only puts out about +4.5V. On that hub some things work and some things don't.
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Old May 25, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Flash Memory speed from different ports.

The only thing I have to show a comparison of data speeds from different ports on my PC is a read/write CrystalDiskMark flash memory speed test comparison, one with the card in the camera, connected via a 2 ft. long cable to a USB 2.0 port built in to my PC monitor (the most "remote" connection I ever use), and the other with the card in an SD carrier inserted into the built-in card reader in my big Dell desktop. I get drastically different speed test results, but even the slowest read speed of the remote port (2.641 MBytes/sec = 21+ Mbits/sec) is obviously still more than enough to play even my highest data rate videos from the camera. Everyone will get different results, obviously, but this is an easy way to get some indication of what is going on with the USB port/connection speeds when a video is not playing properly.
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Old May 25, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Loop recording

This appears to be THE thread about the 808hd on the entire internet, so I'm going to ask about the feature that might not be the most useful to most of the RC-ers here, but still: loop recording (if anyone doesn't know what this is, it means that when the memory card is full the camera automatically starts overwriting the oldest files with the new recording, so you always keep last XXX minutes of video on the card).

I haven't yet seen anyone mention anything about this, so I guess this isn't currently possible, but for some of us this feature would be super awesome as it would enable this little camera to be used for "permanent" recording, for example in a vehicle.

The cheapest HD cameras with loop recording (okay, and usually LCD, which is rarely needed) are like 3 times more expensive.

Is anyone else thinking about this? This is the only missing feature preventing me from buying loads of those cameras. I think it wouldn't be difficult at all for the manufacturer to implement this (even much easier "delete all but last file if the card is full when starting recording" would be useful) and it would open a whole new market segment for them...
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Old May 25, 2011, 06:47 PM
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back again guys to report that another clue... I purchased a usb 2.0 microsd card reader. It still has the same severe noise on playback. I saved the file to H.D. and played the raw file from hard drive... same thing.

Opened the same file with WLMM and it played flawlessly.?? So if that helps.

Also. I made a new timeset file, named the file properly, dropped it in the root, THIS TIME, it did indeed disappear when I turned on the unplugged camera (upon re-checking after failed date change), but IT DID NOT CHANGE THE DATE ON THE VIDEO>?? Yes I recorded a fresh test video, i did not expect it to change the date of anything recorded previously recorded.

Could it be the format? I save it with dashes, it shows backslashes between year month date.????

Pat
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Old May 25, 2011, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dark0 View Post
This appears to be THE thread about the 808hd on the entire internet, so I'm going to ask about the feature that might not be the most useful to most of the RC-ers here, but still: loop recording (if anyone doesn't know what this is, it means that when the memory card is full the camera automatically starts overwriting the oldest files with the new recording, so you always keep last XXX minutes of video on the card).

I haven't yet seen anyone mention anything about this, so I guess this isn't currently possible, but for some of us this feature would be super awesome as it would enable this little camera to be used for "permanent" recording, for example in a vehicle.

The cheapest HD cameras with loop recording (okay, and usually LCD, which is rarely needed) are like 3 times more expensive.

Is anyone else thinking about this? This is the only missing feature preventing me from buying loads of those cameras. I think it wouldn't be difficult at all for the manufacturer to implement this (even much easier "delete all but last file if the card is full when starting recording" would be useful) and it would open a whole new market segment for them...
This has been suggested a couple of times, but not by those who typically use these cameras for aerial RC video use which is the main purpose of this thread. It's not something I would use or want to have as the ONLY way of recording with this camera, but it might be possible to do with a different firmware. Since the camera developers monitor this thread, your wish is now there for them to see. I think there is probably a limit to how many individual features they will want to write special firmware for, however.
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Old May 25, 2011, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wheelspinner20 View Post
back again guys to report that another clue... I purchased a usb 2.0 microsd card reader. It still has the same severe noise on playback. I saved the file to H.D. and played the raw file from hard drive... same thing.

Opened the same file with WLMM and it played flawlessly.?? So if that helps.

Also. I made a new timeset file, named the file properly, dropped it in the root, THIS TIME, it did indeed disappear when I turned on the unplugged camera (upon re-checking after failed date change), but IT DID NOT CHANGE THE DATE ON THE VIDEO>?? Yes I recorded a fresh test video, i did not expect it to change the date of anything recorded previously recorded.


Could it be the format? I save it with dashes, it shows backslashes between year month date.????

Pat
What player are you using to play the video from the HD?

On the date stamp, right click on the file name (or icon) where the file now resides, and select the "Properties" option. Does the "Modified" date agree with the "Created" date? If so, then the video should have picked up the corrected date change when you booted up! If those dates are different, something must be out of whack with your TIMESET.txt file. The sample file I posted for down load here, when opened and changed to the date and time you want using Notepad text editor (adding no extra spaces, etc.), then saved and copied to your flash card root directory should work.... it does on mine.
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Old May 25, 2011, 07:34 PM
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What player are you using
Well, now that you asked, WMP has bad noise. I just tried quicktime since you asked which player... and it plays just fine, no noise... good picture, but I think my focus is a little too close, is that the common default? (well at least on the 2nd of 2 cams, havnt checked focus property of the first one.)

On the date stamp.... format DOES matter,(meaning use / instead of - between date) I wrote the text file exactly as its shown on the video when it plays back yyyy/mm/dd 00:00:00 using 24 hour time and it worked.!!! Im very happy now.... thanks for all the help.

The first few times I tried I did pull up your sample tom, and just changed to current time. It would not work with dashes. Just fyi

Pat
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Old May 25, 2011, 07:37 PM
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Interesting though, with the dashes instead of the slashes, it DID make the file disappear from the root, as if it accepted and made the change. But the date/time stamp remained unchanged.... hmmmmm
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Old May 25, 2011, 10:42 PM
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Well, now that you asked, WMP has bad noise. I just tried quicktime since you asked which player... and it plays just fine, no noise... good picture,
On a win7 PC WMP should play *OK. So you must have install a codec pack on your PC, that has made things go wrong.

*note I`m using Release1 firmware

The best practice is to not install any codec pack, as it messes with all the players.
Instead install players that have internal decoders and need no additional external codec pack.
Like VLC, KMPlayer, MPC-HC

For watching the #11 videos use either the win7 WMP (no codec added) or VLC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspinner20 View Post
The first few times I tried I did pull up your sample tom, and just changed to current time. It would not work with dashes. Just fyi
I also use Tom`s sample.
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Old May 25, 2011, 11:16 PM
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<snip>...

Now there are a couple possibilities for why the port is not capable of 2.0. The first is obviously that the port is lower than 2.0, but from the sounds of things, the computers used are more than likely new enough that the ports are capable of USB 2.0. The most common reason this error shows up for people is that the USB or chipset drivers for your motherboard are either not correctly installed, or not installed at all. That would mean default drivers are being used for USB, which are almost always only 1.1 compliant, so even if the ports themselves are 2.0, they won't run like they are. This is incredibly common on home build machines, and machines where the user has reinstalled windows themselves.

The most telling thing will be when you get your new camera. That will tell you first and foremost if the message came from a malfunction in the device, or the 2 computers you used need some driver updates.
Jonny, welcome to RC Groups and to this thread. Thanks for registering and posting the info about the USB error message. My wife's laptop always displays that error message on start up about the integrated webcam, and that has always puzzled me. Now I know why!

Now that you are registered, I hope you will stick around and share more stuff floating inside your head with us. Seems like you may be one of the smarties.

KC
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Old May 25, 2011, 11:53 PM
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Does anyone know of a plugin to smooth out the #11's exposure and colour hunting in a video editor (Vegas, AE, VirtualDub etc)? Or even a Photoshop action to run on a JPEG sequence? Mike Crash's auto levels plugin for Vegas looks good - but won't run on Vegas 10 (at least it won't run for me).
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspinner20 View Post
Well, now that you asked, WMP has bad noise. I just tried quicktime since you asked which player... and it plays just fine, no noise... good picture, but I think my focus is a little too close, is that the common default? (well at least on the 2nd of 2 cams, havnt checked focus property of the first one.)

On the date stamp.... format DOES matter,(meaning use / instead of - between date) I wrote the text file exactly as its shown on the video when it plays back yyyy/mm/dd 00:00:00 using 24 hour time and it worked.!!! Im very happy now.... thanks for all the help.

The first few times I tried I did pull up your sample tom, and just changed to current time. It would not work with dashes. Just fyi

Pat
Some cameras seem to be focused towards the near field more than others.

Don't know what to say about the time format. The version posted in my thread is the one sent to me by the vendor, and it works perfectly on my computer, both with the prior Release 1 firmware and the current Release 2 firmware. You are the only one that has reported a problem with it! Just for kicks I put the "recover date" firmware back on my camera and re-tried it with both dashes and slashes. Both worked!
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
...
For watching the #11 videos use either the win7 WMP (no codec added) or VLC.
...
For the sake of discussion, WMP (v12) on my W7 (64 bit) PC works fine with ffdshow codec pack resident on my system and with permission allowed to work with WMP. I think W7 WMP and WLMM is set to use theri internal codecs first if available. ffdshow codec pack does not hamper playing in any way on my PC. That's not to say other codec packs act similarly, though.
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Kerosene-AU View Post
Does anyone know of a plugin to smooth out the #11's exposure and colour hunting in a video editor (Vegas, AE, VirtualDub etc)? Or even a Photoshop action to run on a JPEG sequence? Mike Crash's auto levels plugin for Vegas looks good - but won't run on Vegas 10 (at least it won't run for me).
The exposure hunting has been pretty well controlled in the latest firmware, but the white balance still shifts around with light level changes, if that's what you are referring to. I don't know of any software plug-in or filter that is smart enough to detect a white balance shift and correct it. I have tried an "auto white balance" toggle in one of the color tweaking filters in my main editor (MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 17+), but it doesn't correct the problem.
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Old May 26, 2011, 03:00 AM
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For the sake of discussion, WMP (v12) on my W7 (64 bit) PC works fine with ffdshow codec pack resident on my system and with permission allowed to work with WMP. I think W7 WMP and WLMM is set to use theri internal codecs first if available. ffdshow codec pack does not hamper playing in any way on my PC. That's not to say other codec packs act similarly, though.
There are some codec packs that install filters, splitters and decoders that overtake the default ones. Even on other, third party, players.
There are some other, more convenient, that do not interfere with players till you check (tick) the option to do so.
But I do prefer using players that do not register filters/splitters/decoders available to the system usage but have only the codec pack for their own use.
Such as VLC, MPC-HC, KMPlayer (although it can use external codecs after user selection it does not install by itself any codec that interferes with the system).
BTW, KMPlayer is my main player for mkv.
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Old May 26, 2011, 07:01 AM
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I don't know of any software plug-in or filter that is smart enough to detect a white balance shift and correct it.
I think it might be possible with Photoshop (Extended + video). Have a look at the bottom 2 examples on this page. I will investigate further...
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Old May 26, 2011, 09:53 AM
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Hi guys,

I just received the #11 cam that works great, nice picture and all except for the stupid erronous time stamp.
I wrote to the Ebay seller who sold me the cam asking him how to get rid of the time stamp, he quickly replied by sending me an update patch and instructions on how to install it.
I updated the cam, the time stamp is gone but now my videos are crap.
Grass is now blue and sky is white, the rest of the colors are weird too.

Does anyone has this problem and what to do to cure it.

Thanks.
Th
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Old May 26, 2011, 10:30 AM
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Hi guys,

I just received the #11 cam that works great, nice picture and all except for the stupid erronous time stamp.
I wrote to the Ebay seller who sold me the cam asking him how to get rid of the time stamp, he quickly replied by sending me an update patch and instructions on how to install it.
I updated the cam, the time stamp is gone but now my videos are crap.
Grass is now blue and sky is white, the rest of the colors are weird too.

Does anyone has this problem and what to do to cure it.

Thanks.
....
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Old May 26, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by lrrps View Post
Hi guys,

I just received the #11 cam that works great, nice picture and all except for the stupid erronous time stamp.
I wrote to the Ebay seller who sold me the cam asking him how to get rid of the time stamp, he quickly replied by sending me an update patch and instructions on how to install it.
I updated the cam, the time stamp is gone but now my videos are crap.
Grass is now blue and sky is white, the rest of the colors are weird too.

Does anyone has this problem and what to do to cure it.

Thanks.
Th
What I would do.
I would compare the CRC32 of the file through the winrar.
Just compress the firmware with the use of winrar. Then check the CRC32.
Then download the Release 1 firmware.
This is the "no time" firmware found here.
See if the CRC32 matches.
If not then download the Release 2 "remove time" firmware. Found here.
See if the CRC32 matches.

Now if it matches the Release 1 firmware then install the Release 1 firmware "have time". Then install the "no time" again.

Now if it matches the Release 2 firmware then install the Release 2 firmware "recover time". Then install the "remove time" again.

In case that the CRC32 does not match with any firmware I would install the Release 2 firmware.

In case that it matched the Release 1 firmware and you did the above step but still the problem exists then I would install the Release 2 firmware.

I hope you get it right.

PS. You can even use MD5
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Old May 26, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Thanks air crash for the helping hand, my cam recovers its original colors, any release will do the trick for me, that's cool.
I can't wait to test it on my flying wing.
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
There are some codec packs that install filters, splitters and decoders that overtake the default ones. Even on other, third party, players.
There are some other, more convenient, that do not interfere with players till you check (tick) the option to do so.
But I do prefer using players that do not register filters/splitters/decoders available to the system usage but have only the codec pack for their own use.
Such as VLC, MPC-HC, KMPlayer (although it can use external codecs after user selection it does not install by itself any codec that interferes with the system).
BTW, KMPlayer is my main player for mkv.
Yes, built-in codecs are nice. But I needed the H.264 codec for some editors that didn't have it, and ffdshow fillied that gap perfectly, without munging up the players.
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Old May 26, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kerosene-AU View Post
I think it might be possible with Photoshop (Extended + video). Have a look at the bottom 2 examples on this page. I will investigate further...
Looks like it can smooth out the "steps" when auto exposure adjusts during a video so the overall brightness is more uniform, but if the white balance is shifting with the exposure level as it is with the #11 cam, I think the yellow/blue tint shifts the #11 currently has when exposure levels change will still be there. I'm hopeful the latter can be tamed with new camera firmware.
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Old May 26, 2011, 01:16 PM
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someone interested in some movies recorded in and out of the attractions in a entertainment park? by the 11?
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Old May 26, 2011, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Looks like it can smooth out the "steps" when auto exposure adjusts during a video so the overall brightness is more uniform, but if the white balance is shifting with the exposure level as it is with the #11 cam, I think the yellow/blue tint shifts the #11 currently has when exposure levels change will still be there. I'm hopeful the latter can be tamed with new camera firmware.
Hi Tom, Thanks for all your hard work with the camera makers. Here is a test flight using Release 2 firmware - I think it shows the color shift problem quite well. If you make the clip black and white the exposure control is looking pretty good. Lets hope the camera manufacturer will release new firmware soon.

clip.mov (0 min 29 sec)
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Old May 26, 2011, 06:37 PM
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Wait, I may have missed it. Is this color shifting problem an issue with *ALL* the firmware versions?
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Old May 26, 2011, 06:40 PM
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Wait, I may have missed it. Is this color shifting problem an issue with *ALL* the firmware versions?
Yes, since day 1 The firmware updates have gotten the exposre pretty well controlled now, but the saturation levels are still too high over all, even though recent firmware revs show a bit less change in saturation from bright to low light levels now. More tweaking is need on that, but the white balance (yellow/blue) tint changes has yet to be addressed.
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Old May 26, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Hi Tom, Thanks for all your hard work with the camera makers. Here is a test flight using Release 2 firmware - I think it shows the color shift problem quite well. If you make the clip black and white the exposure control is looking pretty good. Lets hope the camera manufacturer will release new firmware soon.
...
Good suggestion to just kill all the chroma in the video and show in black and white. That makes it easy to zero in on the exposure level, and I agree it's pretty well controlled with the latest firmware. It's easy to mistake saturation level changes as exposure problems.
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Old May 27, 2011, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Danka View Post
No, i've checked the archive and folders name - it is "continuous recording". And i have flashed the firmware several times.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't know. The continuous recording works for me. Is it possible you installed the "remove time" firmware by mistake? That would produce the results you are getting.

I'd do another install of the continuous recording firmware and see it that fixes it.
Hi!

Same problem here.
Before I was running the release 1 continuous recording firmware and it was fine.

Now, when flashing:
  • "continuous recording & remove time - release 2" -> no continuous recording but I get 20 min. files until the battery runs out
  • "remove time - release 2" -> continuous recording but stops right after the first 4 GB file ; I'm using an external battery and special cable by the way

This is quite annoying; I loved the continuous recording
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Old May 27, 2011, 11:04 AM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0xfeedbabef00d View Post
Hi!

Same problem here.
Before I was running the release 1 continuous recording firmware and it was fine.


Now, when flashing:
  • "continuous recording & remove time - release 2" -> no continuous recording but I get 20 min. files until the battery runs out
  • "remove time - release 2" -> continuous recording but stops right after the first 4 GB file ; I'm using an external battery and special cable by the way
This is quite annoying; I loved the continuous recording
I'm checking this out. It sounds like the firmware files are in the wrong folders. The Continuous Recording firmware should stop, save, and continue (S/S/C) when the files size reaches 4GB, a limit imposed by the FAT32 files system, not the camera. The Remove Time firmware should keep the default 20 min. S/S/C function.
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Old May 27, 2011, 03:43 PM
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United Kingdom
Joined Aug 2010
71 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Another user has reported (and I have confirmed) that static noise occurs on in-car records even without the car charging cable connected to the camera, so it appears the noise is true radio frequency interference from the car's ignition system being pick up by the camera's circuitry. No shielding methods to eliminate this have yet been reported.
Cause of static noise when an 808 is used in a car / automobile

I just received an 808 #11 in the post today and after charging it putting in a microSD card, stuck it to my dashboard & took it on a drive....

That breakup / static noise is really irritating isn't it ?

What makes it though, has nothing to do with the car's electronic ignition or RF interference - it's caused by very low-frequency audio, from road noise transmitted through the tyres and wheels indirectly into the car's interior.

The 808 has a miniature 'electret' condenser microphone fitted - the low frequency response of these mics can go right down as far a few 10's of Hz, on the theshold of human hearing. It's mainly these inaudible and lower frequency sounds that overload the mic amplifer and 'breaks up' the sound, causing that chopped-up distortion. The technical term is 'clipping'.

After the electrect microphone, will be a single transistor amplifier - it may have more than one amplifier stage, but that's irrelavant. There will be a capacitor directly from the output of the electret microphone, coupling it to the transistor amplifier stage.

By reducing the value of the capacitor between the mic and the amplifier, you will limit it's low-frequency response - in other words, prevent it from been able to amplify these low frequency noises and fk up the audio.

The value of this capacitor should ideally be around 47nf - no more. A 100nf ('104' marking) will pass a considerable amount of low-frequency audio.

A lower value capacitor will also decrease another problem which we be very apperent to users - distortion caused by low frequency WIND noise.

Too low a value, and your audio will sound 'tinny' - great for speech though

I can't find a schematic of the 808 #11 and it looks as though the #1 that was on Chuck Lohr's site has long since gone... but it shouldn't be too difficult to find it with an eyeglass and a bit of patience. Hope this helps.

Just to finish, my 808 #11 was from eletoponline365 (eBay of couse), but it's arrived totaly out of focus - 'pea-soup' fog focus, in fact... Does anyone know if there are any topics on correcting this ??

Richard
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Old May 27, 2011, 04:21 PM
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Release 2 Firmware Reversed - Please Download again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0xfeedbabef00d View Post
Hi!

Same problem here.
Before I was running the release 1 continuous recording firmware and it was fine.



Now, when flashing:
  • "continuous recording & remove time - release 2" -> no continuous recording but I get 20 min. files until the battery runs out
  • "remove time - release 2" -> continuous recording but stops right after the first 4 GB file ; I'm using an external battery and special cable by the way
This is quite annoying; I loved the continuous recording
I installed both of these firmware files on my #11 to check this out, and I also find that they are reversed... the Continuous Recording firmware has 20 min. S/S/C function and the plain Remove Time firmware has continuous recording! I checked the file I posted in the zipped archives here with the .rar archived files I got from MyCameraGal, and they are identical. So the files were reversed when I got them! I did load and test each firmware before posting them here to make sure the cameras still functioned OK, and I know I got some recordings longer than 20 min., but I must have missed the fact the continuous recording times were for the wrong firmware.

Anyway, I have uploaded new firmware folders with the correct firmware in them, so if you had downloaded either of the reversed folders before the date/time of this post, please download them again so you have the correct firmware in each folder.

Sorry for the error and the confusion.
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Old May 27, 2011, 05:16 PM
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timetec View Post
Cause of static noise when an 808 is used in a car / automobile

I just received an 808 #11 in the post today and after charging it putting in a microSD card, stuck it to my dashboard & took it on a drive....

That breakup / static noise is really irritating isn't it ?

What makes it though, has nothing to do with the car's electronic ignition or RF interference - it's caused by very low-frequency audio, from road noise transmitted through the tyres and wheels indirectly into the car's interior.

The 808 has a miniature 'electret' condenser microphone fitted - the low frequency response of these mics can go right down as far a few 10's of Hz, on the theshold of human hearing. It's mainly these inaudible and lower frequency sounds that overload the mic amplifer and 'breaks up' the sound, causing that chopped-up distortion. The technical term is 'clipping'.

After the electrect microphone, will be a single transistor amplifier - it may have more than one amplifier stage, but that's irrelavant. There will be a capacitor directly from the output of the electret microphone, coupling it to the transistor amplifier stage.

By reducing the value of the capacitor between the mic and the amplifier, you will limit it's low-frequency response - in other words, prevent it from been able to amplify these low frequency noises and fk up the audio.

The value of this capacitor should ideally be around 47nf - no more. A 100nf ('104' marking) will pass a considerable amount of low-frequency audio.

A lower value capacitor will also decrease another problem which we be very apperent to users - distortion caused by low frequency WIND noise.

Too low a value, and your audio will sound 'tinny' - great for speech though

I can't find a schematic of the 808 #11 and it looks as though the #1 that was on Chuck Lohr's site has long since gone... but it shouldn't be too difficult to find it with an eyeglass and a bit of patience. Hope this helps.

Just to finish, my 808 #11 was from eletoponline365 (eBay of couse), but it's arrived totaly out of focus - 'pea-soup' fog focus, in fact... Does anyone know if there are any topics on correcting this ??

Richard
Hi Richard,

Check the FAQ's in post #3 for focusing issues.

Interesting find on the car noise. I just did a test without actually driving the car... just revving the engine, and I don't hear any of the scratchy static, so your analysis has merit. If you can get more details for a DIY fix (with pics, etc.), please post them here and I'll link to the FAQs page. There's some fairly close up pics of the circuit board (both sides) in post #2.
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Old May 27, 2011, 10:13 PM
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If I do Continuous Recording and have an 8gb of memory will it record 2 files 4gb each.
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Old May 27, 2011, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
If I do Continuous Recording and have an 8gb of memory will it record 2 files 4gb each.
Not quite. It will try, but your 8GB card will not quite hold the entire second 4GB file since the file system overhead uses up some of the card space. You should end up with a full card, though, if you have an external power supply for the camera that will power it long enough.
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Old May 27, 2011, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Not quite. It will try, but your 8GB card will not quite hold the entire second 4GB file since the file system overhead uses up some of the card space. You should end up with a full card, though, if you have an external power supply for the camera that will power it long enough.
I should have known that 2 file wouldn't be 4gb. The camera won't get to hot?
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Old May 27, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
I should have known that 2 file wouldn't be 4gb. The camera won't get to hot?
No, the camera will not get too hot. It will feel warm, not unlike a lipo after a vigorous (but not over-amped) flight. But the temperature is not a big deal for the electronics. Most of the heat comes from the video processor chip. I think too much is being made of the temperature, probably because most cameras are considerably larger with more space inside and don't have their video processor chip right next to the outside case, so they don't normally feel that warm after use.
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Old May 27, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Has anyone made the lens hole bigger and the mic hole? Is this a good idea to do?
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Old May 27, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I installed both of these firmware files on my #11 to check this out, and I also find that they are reversed... the Continuous Recording firmware has 20 min. S/S/C function and the plain Remove Time firmware has continuous recording! I checked the file I posted in the zipped archives here with the .rar archived files I got from MyCameraGal, and they are identical. So the files were reversed when I got them! I did load and test each firmware before posting them here to make sure the cameras still functioned OK, and I know I got some recordings longer than 20 min., but I must have missed the fact the continuous recording times were for the wrong firmware.

Anyway, I have uploaded new firmware folders with the correct firmware in them, so if you had downloaded either of the reversed folders before the date/time of this post, please download them again so you have the correct firmware in each folder.


Sorry for the error and the confusion.
Just so I'm clear on this issue - your 3 bullets above the 3 zip files in post 3531 are still correct? In order to have continuous recording, you can't have a timestamp, right?
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Old May 27, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrobbie View Post
Just so I'm clear on this issue - your 3 bullets above the 3 zip files in post 3531 are still correct? In order to have continuous recording, you can't have a timestamp, right?
That's right.
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Old May 27, 2011, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
Has anyone made the lens hole bigger and the mic hole? Is this a good idea to do?
It's been done for the lens hole. Unless your lens is not centered in the hole, enlarging the hole is not likely to improve anything. If the lens is not centered, it's possible the case could be increasing the image darkening in a portion of your video border area. If you don't want to unglue the CMOS module to relocate the lens to the center of the hole, then you could enlarge the opening where it is blocking light into the lens.

The sound is plenty sensitive enough as is... no need to enlarge the hole.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; May 28, 2011 at 12:17 AM.
Old May 27, 2011, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
Has anyone made the lens hole bigger and the mic hole? Is this a good idea to do?
???I thought the lens hole is already bigger than the mic hole.
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Old May 28, 2011, 04:32 AM
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Joined Apr 2011
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keychain camera

Hello Guys,

I need some help. I have bought a keychain camera last year on eBay.
Details: 1280x960 AVI 30fps SW10
How can I decide what type is it?
It records in a very bad quality, and I don't know what's the problem and what to do?

Here is a video which I have recorded today(the date hasn't been set)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTc1U4NJ-ik

Thank you very much in advance!

Best regards: Peter Marton from Hungary
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Old May 28, 2011, 04:39 AM
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Cardiff, S. Wales, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martonp View Post
Hello Guys,

I need some help. I have bought a keychain camera last year on eBay.
Details: 1280x960 AVI 30fps SW10
How can I decide what type is it?
It records in a very bad quality, and I don't know what's the problem and what to do?

Here is a video which I have recorded today(the date hasn't been set)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WTc1U4NJ-ik

Thank you very much in advance!

Best regards: Peter Marton from Hungary
Hi,

there are many different types of keychain camera. Have a look at this website - http://www.chucklohr.com/808/

I think you have a #4 whish is not true HD, the picture is upscaled from 640x480. The only true HD camera is #11.
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Old May 28, 2011, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post

Interesting find on the car noise. I just did a test without actually driving the car... just revving the engine, and I don't hear any of the scratchy static, so your analysis has merit. If you can get more details for a DIY fix (with pics, etc.), please post them here and I'll link to the FAQs page. There's some fairly close up pics of the circuit board (both sides) in post #2.
Hello Frank - thanks for links to posts re focusing problems. It seems I have a cross-theaded lense. It's looks like its been force fitted at a skewed angle. It's also blathered in white hot melt glue

On the audio issue, a 'bricked' or incomplete #11 PCB would be very useful in safely locating the culprit capacitor. Just the front half of a PCB would do (where the microphone is attached). One of the problems with cheap Chinese electronics is they have minimal, if any, ESD protection circuitry fitted. This is to keep the manufacturing costs down to a bare minimum - so with too much handling and poking around with a multimeter, you could very easily destroy a perfectly good camera.

Richard
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Old May 28, 2011, 08:44 AM
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Kokopeli's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
........
The sound is plenty sensitive enough as is... no need to enlarge the hole.
On an older (can't remember if it was a 1 or a 3) the alignment was so bad I had to enlarge the mic hole and the lens hole.

Walt

BTW -thanks to all of you for doing thorough beta testing on the firmware.
I am lurking in the background waiting for this to all shake out before I flash
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Old May 28, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Subscribed.
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Old May 28, 2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbite View Post
...snip...BTW -thanks to all of you for doing thorough beta testing on the firmware.
I am lurking in the background waiting for this to all shake out before I flash
I'm in the same boat except I'm waiting to buy till things shake out. What I really want is the best quality video (which I think the continuous recording firmware does), WITH a continuous timestamp or at least the option to have or not have the timestamp.

It is quite easy to crop off the timestamp in post production, but there is no way that I'm aware of to add a continuous timestamp.
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Old May 28, 2011, 02:58 PM
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Winds too high for flying so I decided to stick another one of my vids through WMM6. This was taken before the dockside crash which dislodged the black spot - see earlier post.
A discussion with a redundant factory worker reminded me that I hadn't posted on YouTube yet. He used to work at the Fry's/Cadbury's chocolate factory which was closed this year despite Kraft's promises in 2010 to keep the plant open. Just can't trust those big corporates.
DragonFly RC plane.Aerial HD video of Keynsham, the River Avon & Fry's chocolate factoty (3 min 48 sec)

Head
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Old May 28, 2011, 03:34 PM
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I installed the Rel.1 continuous firmware on my second camera.
So I found that the stock firmware (with the timestamp) had the exposure control fix, as now the camera has an exposure problem while with the stock it did not had.
The camera now still records at 10K and 1280x720, so the stock firmware was a Release 1.

So there must be a Release 1 w/timestamp and w/exposure fix. Only that was not published.

The very first clip (not the static pic though) is taken through the second camera.
All the other are taken through the first camera (that uses the Rel.1 exposure control firmware).

key camera #11 Athens Greece (2 min 6 sec)
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Old May 28, 2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
I installed the Rel.1 continuous firmware on my second camera.
So I found that the stock firmware (with the timestamp) had the exposure control fix, as now the camera has an exposure problem while with the stock it did not had.
The camera now still records at 10K and 1280x720, so the stock firmware was a Release 1.

So there must be a Release 1 w/timestamp and w/exposure fix. Only that was not published.

The very first clip (not the static pic though) is taken through the second camera.
All the other are taken through the first camera (that uses the Rel.1 exposure control firmware).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwvAY3u35Hk
The Release 1 continuous recording firmware did NOT have exposure control. That was added in the subsequent "Exposure Control" firmware I had originally posted. You need to install that version to get the exposure control. There were some reports of the Continuous Recording firmware causing poorer low light performance (i.e. dropped frames) compared to the original firmware with the Date On. So it's possible that is also affecting the brighter light differences you are seeing. Install the release 1 "Exposure Control" firmware if you want that feature from Release 1. Or just switch to Release 2... it has exposure control in all three firmware files, but be advised once you switch to Release 2, you cannot go back to Release 1!
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Old May 28, 2011, 06:39 PM
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Auto TIMESET.txt file creation

Attched is a clever script file created by Mantion here on RCG that will automatically create the TIMESET.txt file on your camera's flash memory card with the time and date set the same as your PC time/date. Some may find this easier than editing the example TIMESET.txt file linked in the FAQs. Just follow these instructions (copy of the instructions also attached below for copying to your PC for quicker reference):

To automatically create a TIMESET.txt file in the root directoy of your #11 camera, do the following:

1. First, turn on your #11 camera, THEN once the yellow LED is lit, plug it into your PC USB port. You should get the USB flash drive connection tone and window opening to show the root directory.

2. Drag the mouse pointer to highlight the entire following string of characters, then press the right mouse button and select "copy":

cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~4,2%-%date:~7,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt)

3. Press the "Windows Logo" key on the keyboard (lower left between Ctrl and Alt keys) and while holding it down, also press the "r" key. A small "Run" window should pop open in the lower left corner of the screen. (Note: If your keyboard does not have the Windows Logo key, click on the START button (lower left corner of screen), type "run" (no quotes) in the search box that opens above it, then click on the "Run" program icon that appears in the search results window.)

4. In the "Run" window "Open" box, right click with the mouse and select "paste". The long string of characters that you copied in step 2 should now show in that "Open" box.

5. Click on the 'OK" button. You should see a TIMESET.txt file show up in your camera root directory. It will have in it the date and time that is set on your computer. Quickly unplug your camera from the USB cable, wait until the yellow LED goes out, then immediately press the power button to turn it back on. When the yellow LED lights up, the camera's date and time should now be the same as your computer's date and time, minus the number of seconds that elapsed while you disconnected the camera and turned it back on.
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Old May 28, 2011, 07:04 PM
Curiouser and curiouser
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Rochester, NY, USA
Joined Oct 2005
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LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
That is INDEED clever !!!!
It is also a GREAT academic exercise to follow the logic of the process and learn lots by doing so.
What I am laughing so uncontrollably about is how much harder it is to do that as opposed to putting a few characters into a text file and let the camera do the work.
I love this forum - I get much of my brain stimulation needed in old age to keep from getting stagnant.
Thanks,
Walt
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Old May 28, 2011, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbite View Post
LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
That is INDEED clever !!!!
It is also a GREAT academic exercise to follow the logic of the process and learn lots by doing so.
What I am laughing so uncontrollably about is how much harder it is to do that as opposed to putting a few characters into a text file and let the camera do the work.
I love this forum - I get much of my brain stimulation needed in old age to keep from getting stagnant.
Thanks,
Walt
The instructions make it look a LOT harder than it really is, and I made them overly verbose since a few have asked here where the root directory of the flash card is. This method may actually be easier for folks who can cut and paste, but don't know about Notepad, etc.

The best solution would be a standalone simple executable that does all this. It was done for the old #3 key fob camera.
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Old May 28, 2011, 09:22 PM
Curiouser and curiouser
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Joined Oct 2005
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Yeah Tom:
That is yet another GREAT thing about these forums.
The geeks patiently designing step by step instructions that, hopefully, are bulletproof for those who just want to "get it done" and aren't interested in the technical details.
It is an interesting, stimulating, and almost always funny iterative process for the geeks trying to get it "right" and the non-geeks showing how many ways there are to interpret a carefully crafted sentence, of which only one way is the intended way and all the others are unexpected, but usually logical, interpretations.

Keep up the good work (and the patience and sense of humor).

Walt
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Old May 28, 2011, 11:11 PM
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If 10 second is the record time and the file size is 8.4 mb what is the kbps? How did you come up with it?
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Old May 29, 2011, 01:00 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0xfeedbabef00d View Post
Hi!

Same problem here.
Before I was running the release 1 continuous recording firmware and it was fine.

Now, when flashing:
  • "continuous recording & remove time - release 2" -> no continuous recording but I get 20 min. files until the battery runs out
  • "remove time - release 2" -> continuous recording but stops right after the first 4 GB file ; I'm using an external battery and special cable by the way

This is quite annoying; I loved the continuous recording
I've got this problem too. Tried the updated files, and 20 minute SSC seems to work, keeps making new files until the battery is dead or card full, but the continuous recording file only saves one 4gb file then stops recording. I'm using a 16GB card and powering it with a custom cable.
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Old May 29, 2011, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
If 10 second is the record time and the file size is 8.4 mb what is the kbps? How did you come up with it?
Is this in response to someone else's post, or a general question for anyone?

If it's the latter, then I'd have to ask if your 8.4 mb means megabits or megabytes. The more conventional notation would be MB for megabytes, and "Mb" for megabits. Since file size would normally be express in MB, I'll assume that's what you meant. So then:

Total data rate = 8.4MB / 10 sec = .84 MBps

And there are 8 bits per byte, so that gives:

Total data rate = .84 MBps * 8 = 6.72 Mbps

And there are 1000 kilobits in 1 megabit, so that gives:

Total data rate = 6.72 Mbps x 1000 = 6720 kbps

which sounds about right for the lower end of the data rate range for the #11 camera.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; May 29, 2011 at 01:35 AM. Reason: deleted extra sentence fragment
Old May 29, 2011, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rev0 View Post
I've got this problem too. Tried the updated files, and 20 minute SSC seems to work, keeps making new files until the battery is dead or card full, but the continuous recording file only saves one 4gb file then stops recording. I'm using a 16GB card and powering it with a custom cable.
Hmmm... I guess I'll have to try it. Sounds like maybe the new Release 2 firmware does not work like the old one.

Has anyone else confirmed the Release 2 Continuous Recording firmware does not continue after saving the first 4GB file?
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Old May 29, 2011, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Attched is a clever script file created by Mantion here on RCG that will automatically create the TIMESET.txt file on your camera's flash memory card with the time and date set the same as your PC time/date. Some may find this easier than editing the example TIMESET.txt file linked in the FAQs. Just follow these instructions (copy of the instructions also attached below for copying to your PC for quicker reference):

To automatically create a TIMESET.txt file in the root directoy of your #11 camera, do the following:

1. First, turn on your #11 camera, THEN once the yellow LED is lit, plug it into your PC USB port. You should get the USB flash drive connection tone and window opening to show the root directory.

2. Drag the mouse pointer to highlight the entire following string of characters, then press the right mouse button and select "copy":

cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~4,2%-%date:~7,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt)

3. Press the "Windows Logo" key on the keyboard (lower left between Ctrl and Alt keys) and while holding it down, also press the "r" key. A small "Run" window should pop open in the lower left corner of the screen. (Note: If your keyboard does not have the Windows Logo key, click on the START button (lower left corner of screen), type "run" (no quotes) in the search box that opens above it, then click on the "Run" program icon that appears in the search results window.)

4. In the "Run" window "Open" box, right click with the mouse and select "paste". The long string of characters that you copied in step 2 should now show in that "Open" box.

5. Click on the 'OK" button. You should see a TIMESET.txt file show up in your camera root directory. It will have in it the date and time that is set on your computer. Quickly unplug your camera from the USB cable, wait until the yellow LED goes out, then immediately press the power button to turn it back on. When the yellow LED lights up, the camera's date and time should now be the same as your computer's date and time, minus the number of seconds that elapsed while you disconnected the camera and turned it back on.
Bravo for the effort.
I think it needs some improvement though.

I tested it and cmd reports a fault (drive not ready). Then after I press cancel it creates the file but the date format is not suitable for the #11 camera (see below).
Instead of using the yyyy-mm-dd format it creates the file with this format: yyyy-dd-mm

This is cause my PC uses the dd-mm-yyyy format (EU format) than the mm-dd-yyyy (US format).

So for me the script that works is this:
cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~7,2%-%date:~4,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt) DO NOT USE THIS, use the code below as the black bold letters do not let the code to work.

Code:
cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~7,2%-%date:~4,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt)
Note that maybe the fault (drive not ready) is present because I`m so lazy to connect the camera but instead I have created a "DCIM" folder to the second partition of the HDD, and then it creates there the file (as it looks for a root with a "DCIM" folder on it
So I can`t know...

Also note that this script will create the TIMESET.txt file in the root of every disk (or partition) that has a folder named "DCIM" inside. Or at least it should. And it will not create the file if there is no folder named "DCIM".
So if your memory card does not have a folder named "DCIM" (aka is empty and you have not recorded a video yet) then it will not create the file.


Secondly it would be nice if this autotimeset was an .exe. Just a click and no messing.

So there you are!
Note, run this file only if you trust me and on your own risk and will. I am not responsible for any kind of side effect of this file.
Though I can assure you my intentions are pure.
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Old May 29, 2011, 02:28 AM
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My comments in GREEN below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
Bravo for the effort.
I think it needs some improvement though.

I did not devise the scripts... just passed them on from a PM I got.

I tested it and cmd reports a fault (drive not ready). Then after I press cancel it creates the file but the date format is not suitable for the #11 camera (see below).

I had a similar issue, with a logical drive letter that somehow got assigned to my USB printer... it showed up in my computer as a removeable storage device, and the script crashed momentarily when it tried to open that logical drive number and failed. Cancelling the error message then allowed the script to proceed and write the file to the camer flash card as you also found out.

Instead of using the yyyy-mm-dd format it creates the file with this format: yyyy-dd-mm

This is cause my PC uses the dd-mm-yyyy format (EU format) than the mm-dd-yyyy (US format).

Good catch... something not foreseen or not intended for the original script perhaps.

So for me the script that works is this:
cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~7,2%-%date:~4,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt) DO NOT USE THIS, use the code below as the black bold letters do not let the code to work.

Code:
cmd /c For %a in (a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z) do if exist %a:\DCIM (echo %date:~10%-%date:~7,2%-%date:~4,2% %time:~,8%>%a:\TIMESET.txt)
Note that maybe the fault (drive not ready) is present because I`m so lazy to connect the camera but instead I have created a "DCIM" folder to the second partition of the HDD, and then it creates there the file (as it looks for a root with a "DCIM" folder on it
So I can`t know...

Also note that this script will create the TIMESET.txt file in the root of every disk (or partition) that has a folder named "DCIM" inside. Or at least it should. And it will not create the file if there is no folder named "DCIM".
So if your memory card does not have a folder named "DCIM" (aka is empty and you have not recorded a video yet) then it will not create the file.
Yep, I knew that. I suspect virtually everyone will first shoot a test video when they get the camera before ever worrying about, or even knowing about, setting the time.

Secondly it would be nice if this autotimeset was an .exe. Just a click and no messing.
Yep... something I mentioned in my post with the script file. Thanks for creating the two executables for these two date formats. I'll revamp my FAQs to lead to the executables you appended here. Ideally, the ultimate solution would be one program which first parsed the PCs date format, deciphered its structure, then restructured it into the camera's native format and output it to the flash card. But that's a LOT of work compared to simply editing the sample text file and copying it to the camera's flash card

So there you are!
Note, run this file only if you trust me and on your own risk and will. I am not responsible for any kind of side effect of this file.
Though I can assure you my intentions are pure.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; May 29, 2011 at 02:37 AM.
Old May 29, 2011, 03:37 AM
MrE
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I have no idea whats going on with the continuous recording 2 firmware, but I downloaded the firmware at least 2 or 3 weeks ago. my Camera arrived last week some time and I immediately did the firmware up-date using that older version.

I tested the cam right away and I was getting 40+ minutes until the cam battery died. I just re-checked my original test video.

The recent posts had me thinking I had loaded the wrong version, so I downloaded it again and re-flashed the cam and Im getting exactly the same results - 40+ minutes and no date.

So the firmware files must have gotten mixed up just recently?
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Old May 29, 2011, 11:08 AM
utx
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I guess I just found the solution of the "pin 4" charging mystery and car charger voltage.

If you open the camera and attempt to trace wire from the USB pin 4, you can see part with label "S4" near the camera module. This apparently look and behaves like a Schottky diode. Are you curious where the the trace from the diode ends? Using resistance meter, you can verify that it is a battery! No resistor, no charging circuit, nothing! Pin 4 is connected in parallel to the battery!

Now I understand, why charging LED does not work in car.

Now I understand, why the battery is half depleted after any car recording.

Now I understand, why car "charger" produces 4.2V and not 5V.

How would I call such wiring: über-ugly solution.

How it works:

- If you connect the car "charger", the opposite side of the Schottky diode (i. e. battery side) could provide 3.95 to 4,05V. They deliberately decreased car "charger" voltage to 4.20V - 4.8V could damage the battery, 4.0V could not.

- If the battery is fully charged and car "charger" is connected, car trip recording uses battery!

- The battery is slowly going to deplete and its voltage drops. Once the voltage drops below say 3.96V, car "charger" provides stronger power and depleting of the battery stops.

Consideration:

- Car "charger" can never fully charge the battery.

- If the battery is completely depleted, charging with car "charger" via pin 4 may be risky - here is a over-current and over-temperature risk. (Maybe the battery circuit itself contains some protection.)

- Long charging with emergency "charger" may be risky. Emergency charger is not stabilized and can produce well above 5.5V, which may produce (in theory) up to 5.3V on the battery terminals. (Maybe the battery circuit itself contains some protection.)

- Recording+charging with Isoprop's mod using 5V is very risky, as battery terminals may experience 4.8V.

And now guessing, why they did it in such an ugly way:

- It is just a single diode added. Cheap and fast solution that requires minimal PCB change.

- Adding three Schottky diodes would be much safer solution (one between battery and elctronics, second between pin 4 and charging circuit, third between pin 4 and electronics; Schottky diode between pin 1 and electronics is already there). But it would be a bit more expensive and the diode between battery and electronics would decrease electrical efficiency (and recording time) by about 5%.

- Addind electronic power switch that would disconnect the battery from the camera electronics would be also safe solution, which would allow to power electronics directly from the pin 4 or evenpin 1 directly.

I am now thinking about easy modification that will provide safer charging during recording with a standard USB equipment.
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Old May 29, 2011, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Is this in response to someone else's post, or a general question for anyone?

If it's the latter, then I'd have to ask if your 8.4 mb means megabits or megabytes. The more conventional notation would be MB for megabytes, and "Mb" for megabits. Since file size would normally be express in MB, I'll assume that's what you meant. So then:

Total data rate = 8.4MB / 10 sec = .84 MBps

And there are 8 bits per byte, so that gives:

Total data rate = .84 MBps * 8 = 6.72 Mbps

And there are 1000 kilobits in 1 megabit, so that gives:

Total data rate = 6.72 Mbps x 1000 = 6720 kbps

which sounds about right for the lower end of the data rate range for the #11 camera.
So I don't have any drop frames?
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Old May 29, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrE View Post
I have no idea whats going on with the continuous recording 2 firmware, but I downloaded the firmware at least 2 or 3 weeks ago. my Camera arrived last week some time and I immediately did the firmware up-date using that older version.

I tested the cam right away and I was getting 40+ minutes until the cam battery died. I just re-checked my original test video.

The recent posts had me thinking I had loaded the wrong version, so I downloaded it again and re-flashed the cam and Im getting exactly the same results - 40+ minutes and no date.

So the firmware files must have gotten mixed up just recently?
Not sure I follow you. You spend this whole post explaining that you successfully flashed the continuous firmware and then prove it by stating that you are now getting 40+ minute recordings without the timestamp. Then you end it saying the firmwares are mixed up? How are they mixed up? You just got through saying you downloaded the correct one and proved as such.
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Old May 29, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
I guess I just found the solution of the "pin 4" charging mystery and car charger voltage.

If you open the camera and attempt to trace wire from the USB pin 4, you can see part with label "S4" near the camera module. This apparently look and behaves like a Schottky diode.


And now guessing, why they did it in such an ugly way:
- It is just a single diode added. Cheap and fast solution that requires minimal PCB change.
A few pages back I posted about this. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3916
The main reason is the charger adds no heat to the camera this way.

Now if there were diodes so to drop the voltage then the voltage would not be stabilized. As a USB power source may have from 4.8 to 5.5V, and still be in the specs.
But diodes do not provide stabilization, only some voltage drop.
It would be needed a voltage regulator, which gets warm and adds heat to the camera.

I think the diode you found on the PCB is there only to provide reverse polarity safety, and was not placed to make a voltage drop.
As the charger is connected in parallel with the battery a safety of reverse polarity is a must.
It would not be needed to make a voltage drop, as the car charger could easily be adjusted to provide any voltage they like.

So I think you can use:
supplied special car charger @4.19V
1S (1 cell) Li-po @4.2V
3 AA rechargeable batteries max 4.2V (less under load, but enough to power the camera, but I have not tested it)
5 or better 6 AA with a voltage regulator. A linear positive adjustable voltage regulator such as LM317 (or lower power) so to max out the voltage at 4.19V
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Old May 29, 2011, 12:41 PM
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What about people who buy the camera with the emergency charger and special USB cable? Does the cable include a diode to lower the voltage from the emergency charger? I find it hard to believe that the emergency charger will output the lower 4.2v considering you also get the adapter cables for other usb devices. I'm talking about these postings.
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Old May 29, 2011, 12:59 PM
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I don`t ( I can`t) know about that portable power supply (even if they call it an emergency charger).
I don`t own one.

But I have not said that it is dangerous to power the camera with 5.0V through the #4 pin (x pin) of the mini USB.

I have said (or meant) that it is no point to use 5.0V if you make your own portable power supply.
As the correct voltage is 4.2V (li-po safe).

Now if the battery of the camera has a safety circuit (which has) that does not let overcharging by overvoltage then it will not be dangerous to power it by 5.0V, but only just pointless.

I assume that if there is no battery exploded yet then it is safe to do so though.

EDIT: addition
I don`t mean though that 5V is OK, I just don`t know if it is not OK.
All I know is that 4.20V is OK for sure.
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Old May 29, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
...
But I have not said that it is dangerous to power the camera with 5.0V through the #4 pin (x pin) of the mini USB.

I have said (or meant) that it is no point to use 5.0V if you make your own portable power supply.
As the correct voltage is 4.2V (li-po safe).

Now if the battery of the camera has a safety circuit (which has) that does not let overcharging by overvoltage then it will not be dangerous to power it by 5.0V, but only just pointless.

I assume that if there is no battery exploded yet then it is safe to do so though.

EDIT: addition
I don`t mean though that 5V is OK, I just don`t know if it is not OK.
All I know is that 4.20V is OK for sure.
There IS a protection circuit with each battery... it's a small circuit board soldered to the battery tabs, with the battery wires to the circuit board also soldered there. You cannot see the circuit board because it is wrapped inside the taped end of the battery. THIS IS EXPLAINED IN DETAIL IN THIS POST, WHICH IS ALSO LINKED FROM FAQs IN POST #3 IF YOU WOULD CARE TO REVIEW THE FAQs ABOUT THIS AND OTHER QUESTIONS WHICH HAVE BEEN ASKED AND ANSWERED ALREADY.

And there IS an advantage to the slightly higher RESTING voltage of an external battery pack, and that is because of the voltage drop when the external pack is powering the camera. With no diode to drop the voltage to an inherently safe level while resting and to a lower than desired level while powering the camera, the pack will be able to power the camera for a much longer period of time. THIS, TOO, IS COVERED IN A FAQs LINK TO PROVIDING EXTERNAL POWER!

I don't disagree that an external pack with diode output (or better yet, voltage regulated) supply is safer, but it's redundant and has the side detriment of wasting some of the available power that could be put to use in keeping the camera operating longer.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; May 29, 2011 at 02:04 PM.
Old May 29, 2011, 01:56 PM
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Yeah, I know this.
I said it has.

What I did not said is that the camera (processor, etc) are meant to be supplied by 4.20V of the internal battery.
Now if you supply 5.0V (or even more) through an external power supply (through x pin) then the camera may have a problem in long term usage, or may not.
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Old May 29, 2011, 02:06 PM
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Hi Guys,

I already purchased the HD key cam as a replacement for my old D011 cam. I was using D011 cam in the car as a traffic recorder, but the quality of the video was not good enough for me btw here is my "auto start recording" mod:

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/COther/

I would like to do the same with the new HD cam. Unfortunately the only missing part of my puzzle is the cycle recording firmware. By any chance do you know something about this kind of firmware for this cam? Cycle recording firmware is the only way how can this be done (let me know if you have any other idea).
Thank you
Peter
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Old May 29, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterpeter View Post
Hi Guys,

I already purchased the HD key cam as a replacement for my old D011 cam. I was using D011 cam in the car as a traffic recorder, but the quality of the video was not good enough for me btw here is my "auto start recording" mod:

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/COther/

I would like to do the same with the new HD cam. Unfortunately the only missing part of my puzzle is the cycle recording firmware. By any chance do you know something about this kind of firmware for this cam? Cycle recording firmware is the only way how can this be done (let me know if you have any other idea).
Thank you
Peter
There is no cycle (e.g. overwrite) firmware for this camera. For applications like yours, I can see the advantage. For applications like Aerial Video (the subject of this forum thread), it would not necessarily be an adavantage to lose video previously recorded.
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Old May 29, 2011, 03:56 PM
utx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
What I did not said is that the camera (processor, etc) are meant to be supplied by 4.20V of the internal battery.
Now if you supply 5.0V (or even more) through an external power supply (through x pin) then the camera may have a problem in long term usage, or may not.
I don't think so. If you look at the PCB, you see two ICs labeled H10g, two large capacitors with one pin on ground, and two coils on the opposite side. It is a strong indication that there are two switching power supplies. Most modern battery powered devices are doing so - battery voltage is not stable enough and linear regulators have worse efficiency.

That is why I think that a bit higher voltage on pin 4 is not a problem for the camera electronics, problem of energy efficiency or problem of heat. I think that it is a problem of the battery and just for a battery. 5V on pin 1 does not have such problem - there is a charging circuit that carefully controls battery voltage (2YL6, kimber78 says in post #3294 that it is equal to LTC4054 or MCP73811).
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Old May 29, 2011, 04:14 PM
utx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xamindar View Post
What about people who buy the camera with the emergency charger and special USB cable? Does the cable include a diode to lower the voltage from the emergency charger?
No, the cable does not include any diode.

The emergency charger is not stabilized and produces more than 5.5V if there is no load and about 4.0V when connected to the camera with a heavy load.

So there is no risk of overvoltage during heavy load.

But there may be a risk of overcharging when it is connected too long and the camera is off.

Note that the battery protection circuit does not replace smart Li-Ion charger IC. It just protects the battery in case of critical problems that can cause explosion (undervoltage, overvoltage, dangerous temperature) - it typically has only two states - active (battery is disconnected from terminals), inactive (battery is connected).

With just a bad battery charging (for example slow overcharge few percent above the full capacity), the battery can just lose its capacity very quicky.
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Old May 29, 2011, 04:42 PM
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Continuous Recording test and other tidbits

I ran a test of the Release 2 Continuous Recording firmware today using an 8GB flash memory card and my 4 cell NiMH external battery pack with special car charger USB plug. I confirmed that I, too, only get a single 4GB file, so I have let my camera developer contact know about this, and hopefully he will update that firmware to continue recording after each 4GB stop/save point like the Release 1 Continuous Recording firmware did.

Also, I reminded him of the need for color white balance control as well as slight decrease in the saturation level.

And to get definitive information on the external power limitations, I asked him about using an external 4 cell NiMh battery pack for external power with the special car charger USB plug. Hopefully we'll get this straightened out soon so we don't have to keep guessing about it.

FWIW, my 4 cell NiMH pack had 5.3V resting when I plugged it in for my test, and the battery input voltage to the camera dropped to 5.1V when the recording was started. No magic smoke escaped from the camera during the two hours of the test, and for now, the camera still work normally.

He also told me that cameras ordered after May 20 should come with the Release 2 Date Recover Firmware installed, unless special requests to install different firmware is made at the time of ordering.
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Old May 29, 2011, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Hmmm... I guess I'll have to try it. Sounds like maybe the new Release 2 firmware does not work like the old one.

Has anyone else confirmed the Release 2 Continuous Recording firmware does not continue after saving the first 4GB file?
Hi Tom.

I redownloaded and flashed the firmware "continuous recording & remove time - release 2.zip" from your updated post #3531; MD5 of the .bin file is CEB85039D90D74575BDC5CD377598131.
I did another test : again, I got one 4GB file and it stopped there.
So it does not seem to continue after the first 4GB file.
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Old May 29, 2011, 06:34 PM
utx
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I did more measurements and I have to make some corrections of my previous statements:

- There is probably some type of switch (probably FET transistor) between the Schottky diode on pin 4 and the battery. But it is on when the device runs on battery or when the device runs from pin 4 power. It seems to close when the device runs from pin 1.

- This battery/pin 4 switch does not activate for power on pin 4. Trying to raise voltage on pin 4, I seen 6V on battery terminals! Hopefully, circuit breaker inside battery seems to be activated at voltage slightly below 5V and prevents instant battery damage or explosion. (I have observed rapid current decrease when battery protection breaker activated.)

- Pin 1 is equipped with a circuit that correctly reconnects the power (5V to charger, 5V to electronics).

- The two switching power supplies seems to generate 1.8V and 1.25V and they are active only if camera is on. There is at least one another regulator, which produces 3.3V (probably linear). It powers at least boot flash chip.

The only problem of the pin 1 external power is the automatic switching to the mass storage mode. If we find a part that detects it and disconnect it, we would get much better charging+recording configuration than the current one.
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Old May 29, 2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I ran a test of the Release 2 Continuous Recording firmware today using an 8GB flash memory card and my 4 cell NiMH external battery pack with special car charger USB plug. I confirmed that I, too, only get a single 4GB file, so I have let my camera developer contact know about this, and hopefully he will update that firmware to continue recording after each 4GB stop/save point like the Release 1 Continuous Recording firmware did.

Also, I reminded him of the need for color white balance control as well as slight decrease in the saturation level.

And to get definitive information on the external power limitations, I asked him about using an external 4 cell NiMh battery pack for external power with the special car charger USB plug. Hopefully we'll get this straightened out soon so we don't have to keep guessing about it.

FWIW, my 4 cell NiMH pack had 5.3V resting when I plugged it in for my test, and the battery input voltage to the camera dropped to 5.1V when the recording was started. No magic smoke escaped from the camera during the two hours of the test, and for now, the camera still work normally.

He also told me that cameras ordered after May 20 should come with the Release 2 Date Recover Firmware installed, unless special requests to install different firmware is made at the time of ordering.
So are the first 2 firmwares in post 3531 identical? or is the second one (continuous) different and just doesn't work properly. Is one of these two causing the poor video quality that some are reporting?
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Old May 29, 2011, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zrobbie View Post
So are the first 2 firmwares in post 3531 identical? or is the second one (continuous) different and just doesn't work properly. Is one of these two causing the poor video quality that some are reporting?
No, they are not identical. The descriptions say what the difference is, but I just edited the second since it's not working like release 1. First stops/saves/continues at 20 min. intervals. Second does not stop/save until it hits the 4GB files size limit of FAT32 files system. It should start another 4GB file after that like Release 1, but currently doesn't restart.

Not sure what poor video quality you are referring to. There is still a white balance issue, and some over-saturation of colors, but those have been there since day one. I am expecting more firmware improvements to address these short comings.
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Old May 30, 2011, 02:28 AM
MrE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xamindar View Post
Not sure I follow you. You spend this whole post explaining that you successfully flashed the continuous firmware and then prove it by stating that you are now getting 40+ minute recordings without the timestamp. Then you end it saying the firmwares are mixed up? How are they mixed up? You just got through saying you downloaded the correct one and proved as such.
Sorry for my confused explanation. I was going on Toms post 4235 and earlier posts saying that the files had been mixed up earlier than the date of his post.

I meant to say that I had downloaded the file well before his post and as far as I can tell, it was working the way it should have as far as recording for more than 20 minutes.

Quote:
I installed both of these firmware files on my #11 to check this out, and I also find that they are reversed... the Continuous Recording firmware has 20 min. S/S/C function and the plain Remove Time firmware has continuous recording! I checked the file I posted in the zipped archives here with the .rar archived files I got from MyCameraGal, and they are identical. So the files were reversed when I got them! I did load and test each firmware before posting them here to make sure the cameras still functioned OK, and I know I got some recordings longer than 20 min., but I must have missed the fact the continuous recording times were for the wrong firmware.

Anyway, I have uploaded new firmware folders with the correct firmware in them, so if you had downloaded either of the reversed folders before the date/time of this post, please download them again so you have the correct firmware in each folder.

Sorry for the error and the confusion.
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Old May 30, 2011, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
...
- Recording+charging with Isoprop's mod using 5V is very risky, as battery terminals may experience 4.8V.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
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FWIW, my 4 cell NiMH pack had 5.3V resting when I plugged it in for my test, and the battery input voltage to the camera dropped to 5.1V when the recording was started. No magic smoke escaped from the camera during the two hours of the test, and for now, the camera still work normally.
...
Great detective work, utx, and very interesting too.
However, theory and practice seem to be two different things with this great little camera.

Just for the record, I have recorded well over 200 hours of continuous video (up to 10 hours at a time) using an external USB battery pack (Just Mobile, Gum Pro PP-08, 5.1V under load) and still haven't observed any whiffs of smoke

Camera always runs nice and cool - well, at least not hot, hot
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Old May 30, 2011, 05:59 AM
utx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Just for the record, I have recorded well over 200 hours of continuous video (up to 10 hours at a time) using an external USB battery pack (Just Mobile, Gum Pro PP-08, 5.1V under load) and still haven't observed any whiffs of smoke

Camera always runs nice and cool - well, at least not hot, hot
Post #4280 explains, why the damage does not happen: The battery emergency breaker circuit under the battery polyimide cover works and protects you from smoke.

If you have an Ampere meter and regulated and well stabilized power supply (I don't), you can exactly measure voltage, when the battery breaker activates. Just connect the power supply to the pin 4 and slowly raise voltage starting at 4V. You should see rapid power consumption decrease somewhere below 5V.

What is defective on such design: Battery breaker is intended to be the last emergency protection. Here it is the only tool that controls the charge. In the correctly designed device the battery breaker should never activate. Guessing that it activates somewhere between 4.3V and 4.5V. Under normal charging conditions (using pin 1), battery terminals never have more than about 4.22V.

Here are two dangerous situations. None of them will cause battery smoke, but they can shorten battery life:

- Overcharge: Using a well stabilized external power supply that generates voltage in the narrow range when slight overvoltage on battery happens on the battery but the emergency circuit breaker does not activate yet (guessing somewhere between 4.5V and 4.9V). Charge never stops and the battery slowly dies on overcharge.

- Overcurrent: Connecting of the power supply above when the battery is completely depleted may cause high charging current. Depleted battery should be charged by constant current, here it uses constant voltage. If the emergency circuit breaker does not activate (current and temperature below limit), battery might have problems with its life. Hopefully the car "charger" voltage is low, the constant voltage on the battery is only about 4V and the battery internal resistance may protect it from overcurrent.

If your battery pack produces 5.1V under load, you are probably on the safe side. Please try voltage on battery terminals. If you measure something like 4.9V, the emergency battery breaker circuit is active (such voltage would damage the battery in a very short time otherwise).
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Old May 30, 2011, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
...
If your battery pack produces 5.1V under load, you are probably on the safe side. Please try voltage on battery terminals. If you measure something like 4.9V, the emergency battery breaker circuit is active (such voltage would damage the battery in a very short time otherwise).
I don't have a calibrated power source or calibrated voltmeter, and I'm sure you are more knowledgeable than I am in this matter. I can follow your theory up to the point about the circuit breaker.

What I don't understand in your theory is the following:
If the internal battery is initially depleted, why is it fully charged at the end of a 10 hour recording session? My external power supply still supplies approx. 5V at the end of the 10-hour period which would mean that the circuit breaker is still active. External power is, of course, connected by the infamous Pin #4.
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Old May 30, 2011, 07:11 AM
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It would be nice to know what is voltage output of the (supplied) emergency charger and if it is meant for continuous recording or for emergency charging.

We know that the supplied car charger, which is meant for continuous recording, outputs 4.19V

It would be also nice if someone did a test. With 3AA testing the recording time against the 4AA.
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Old May 30, 2011, 10:43 AM
utx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I don't have a calibrated power source or calibrated voltmeter, and I'm sure you are more knowledgeable than I am in this matter. I can follow your theory up to the point about the circuit breaker.

What I don't understand in your theory is the following:
If the internal battery is initially depleted, why is it fully charged at the end of a 10 hour recording session? My external power supply still supplies approx. 5V at the end of the 10-hour period which would mean that the circuit breaker is still active. External power is, of course, connected by the infamous Pin #4.
You don't need calibrated power source, just regulated and hard enough. My one is soft, and when I am raising voltage between 4V and 5V, I see current increase up to about 4.7V and then disconnection. After the diconnection, voltage of my soft power supply jumps up, and voltage on battery terminals raises as well. I seen over 6V there, that iw why I guess that emergency battery breaker was activated.

I cannot give you answer, why your battery charges with pin 4 charger, as my battery depletes during long recording with provided car charger. Please try to open your camera and measure a voltage on battery terminals while recording and powering via pin 4. It is possible that I overseen something. If you see less than 4.2-4.3V there, breaker is not active and charging runs. If you see much more, breaker is activated. If it is in the range, you can measure voltage on the diode at pin 4. One pole should have the voltage of the pin 4, another should have the voltage of battery terminals plus something (as I wrote above, I guess that there is a FET switching transistor between the diode and battery, which may have hundreds of miliohms resistance when opened).

It is even possible that my camera behaves differently. As I reported some time ago, I seen a small cloud of smoke during the initial charge, and the diode near pin 4 has signs of overheating in past.
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Old May 30, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Set Date and Time Program

<Update 1. June 2011 - Version 1.0.0.3>
I've made the following modifications based on user input:
• Modified instruction #5 to make it clearer how to stop and remove the camera.
• Added optional instruction #7 to test the date and time.
• Only removable media equal or less than 32GB are shown in the listbox.
• Minor modifications to show the sizes in Bytes, MB or GB as appropriate.
• Modification to the TAB order.
• Other very minor code modifications.

<Update 31. May 2011 - Version 1.0.0.2>
Thank you Tom for testing and your suggestions, and thank you jantares for testing in Poland.
I have updated the version and removed the BETA status.

The new version shows the Volume ID (if available) together with the size of the disk and the free space. I have used 1024 Bytes to represent 1KB etc. which should be in line with the latest Microsoft Operating Systems.
The disk drive letter in the list control is deliberately shown before the Volume ID because I use the colon in the second position to differentiate between a disk drive and an error message (quick-and-dirty trick).

You may also connect the camera after starting the program. The program handles the Windows notification message by reloading all the removable disk drives.

When you start the program, the time is the current time plus 30 seconds. This should be enough to select the Drive, write the data, turn off the camera and disconnect, and finally turn on the camera. The camera time should now be pretty accurate!

I have also added some short instructions and features to advance/retard the time by 1 minute. There is also a button to reload the current time.
I hope I haven't made this program too complicated (please shout if you want me to make things simpler), and I have avoided color because of the color-blind members!

As always, there may be a bug or two hidden somewhere, so please post any findings in this forum. I have not had the time to fully test all conditions that may arise. Suggestions are always welcome.

<Original Posting>
OK, it seems there is a need for a simple date and time set program that works in any country.

I've whipped up a BETA which you can download here (latest version).

I've tested the program on both Windows 7 and XP (both 32 bit versions) and it works perfectly. However, I have not had the time to properly test it using the US date format (seems good on the screen capture below). It would be great if someone (Tom? ) could do that for me - thanks.

I plan to add a button to increase/decrease the current time by 1 minute which I think would be useful. Like I said, this is truly BETA, but since it only writes a file to disk I don't think any harm can be done. But all the same, use at your own risk. Suggestions are always welcome.

Hope it's useful to someone - I'm beginning to think it's a good idea after all , even for non-newbies - much easier than editing a text file.

Here's a screenshot (only latest version):
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Last edited by Isoprop; Jun 01, 2011 at 08:09 AM. Reason: Version update
Old May 30, 2011, 10:57 AM
utx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air_crash View Post
It would be nice to know what is voltage output of the (supplied) emergency charger and if it is meant for continuous recording or for emergency charging.
Voltage output of the (supplied) emergency charger varies. It has no stabilization and has about 5.7V when idle and about 4.1V under heavy load.

Here is my theory what happens during charge with emergency charger (EC): Battery is charging, EC is loaded and the voltage drops near 4V. Charging runs. When the battery is fully charged, load decreases and EC voltage raises. When it raises to the battery breaker limit, it activates, and LED on the EC turns Off.
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Old May 30, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Follow-up comments from the camera developer inserted below in green. Inserting a diode in the battery pack output sounds like the safest way to go, even though it diminishes the available recording time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I ran a test of the Release 2 Continuous Recording firmware today using an 8GB flash memory card and my 4 cell NiMH external battery pack with special car charger USB plug. I confirmed that I, too, only get a single 4GB file, so I have let my camera developer contact know about this, and hopefully he will update that firmware to continue recording after each 4GB stop/save point like the Release 1 Continuous Recording firmware did.
Yes, we noted the issue (4G then stop recording) and we will correct it very soon. Thank you. You will be the first one to know when the updated firmware is ready.
...
And to get definitive information on the external power limitations, I asked him about using an external 4 cell NiMh battery pack for external power with the special car charger USB plug. Hopefully we'll get this straightened out soon so we don't have to keep guessing about it.
According to our testing result, using over 5v to charge will cause damage to the camera. Better to use power pack with output control. We are thinking to supply more options for backup power source.
...
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Old May 30, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Isoprop, good job.
I have not run it but well done for the effort.


Quote:
Originally Posted by utx View Post
Voltage output of the (supplied) emergency charger varies. It has no stabilization and has about 5.7V when idle and about 4.1V under heavy load.
Do you mean the car charger?
Ohh, now I got it. You mean the emergency charger.
Going to drink a coffee so to have my eyes open better...
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Old May 30, 2011, 02:32 PM
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today, i got my first 808 hd cam. but i have some problems.

please watch the video. center of video is sharp but left and right sides are blury.

help me what is the problem. lens? firmware?

blurry (0 min 20 sec)
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Old May 30, 2011, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Follow-up comments from the camera developer inserted below in green. Inserting a diode in the battery pack output sounds like the safest way to go, even though it diminishes the available recording time.
+1
Mike
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Old May 30, 2011, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
OK, it seems there is a need for a simple date and time set program that works in any country.

I've tested the program on both Windows 7 and XP (both 32 bit versions) and it works perfectly. However, I have not had the time to properly test it using the US date format (seems good on the screen capture below). It would be great if someone (Tom? ) could do that for me - thanks.
Your application on my computer is working properly. I use Windows XP SP3 date of the Polish system. When you switch it to a check for U.S. date system is also OK :-)
The script provided by Tom Frank I can not work properly. It was good when switched to the U.S. date system.
Both programs "AutoTimeSet_EU.exe" from Tom Frank also did not work for me. He showed the message that the program is not a valid Win32 application.
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Old May 30, 2011, 05:12 PM
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Isoprop,

EXCELLENT tool! Works perfectly on my W7(64 bit) PC with US date format. Bravo!

I have one suggestion, and that is to show the removable drive logical name along with the drive letter if you can access that. It could replace the FAT32 label which doesn't help me that much for identifying the correct removable drive. E.g. When plugged into my PC, my camera shows up as drive I, with the "HD KeyCam" name I gave it. As is, I need to open "my computer" to see the connected drives to make sure I pick the right one. I guess if there's only one removeable drive connected, it's not a big deal, though!

I'll post a link to your page with the download link, so please keep that page link intact if you make any changes to the program. Thanks for whipping this up so quickly and so nicely implemented!

I have one suggestion. Can you replace the FAT32 tag with the logical drive name given to the removable drive by the user? That will help identify the correct drive if there is more than one plugged in at the time. E.G. When I plug in my camera, "my computer" folder shows the drive as I: HD KeyCam, tha latter portion being the name I assigned to that device.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
OK, it seems there is a need for a simple date and time set program that works in any country.

I've whipped up a BETA which you can download here.

I've tested the program on both Windows 7 and XP (both 32 bit versions) and it works perfectly. However, I have not had the time to properly test it using the US date format (seems good on the screen capture below). It would be great if someone (Tom? ) could do that for me - thanks.

I plan to add a button to increase/decrease the current time by 1 minute which I think would be useful. Like I said, this is truly BETA, but since it only writes a file to disk I don't think any harm can be done. But all the same, use at your own risk. Suggestions are always welcome.

Hope it's useful to someone - I'm beginning to think it's a good idea after all , even for non-newbies - much easier than editing a text file.

Here's a screenshot:
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Last edited by Tom Frank; May 30, 2011 at 05:59 PM. Reason: added suggestion
Old May 30, 2011, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmdlcar View Post
So I don't have any drop frames?
The data rate does not tell you anything about dropped frames. If you shot the video outside in the day time, you most probably have no dropped frames. If you can load the video into a player or editor and step through the clip one frame at a time, a dropped frame will show no change whatsoever from the prio frame. If you see ANY slight movement, change in color or detail as you step from one frame to the next, you don't have a dropped frame there. Some file utilities can also help identify dropped frames, but I don't use them.
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Old May 30, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yallawo View Post
today, i got my first 808 hd cam. but i have some problems.

please watch the video. center of video is sharp but left and right sides are blury.

help me what is the problem. lens? firmware?
...
Please go to the FAQs in post #3 for answers...
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Old May 30, 2011, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jantares View Post
...
Both programs "AutoTimeSet_EU.exe" from Tom Frank also did not work for me. He showed the message that the program is not a valid Win32 application.
The US version worked fine on my W7 (64 bit) PC, but Isoprop's utility appears to work OK on all systems and is very easy to use. I have simplified my link in the FAQs to point to Isoprop's utility program page. Thanks to the others who also helped usher along an auto date change file creation method.
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Old May 31, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
No, they are not identical. The descriptions say what the difference is, but I just edited the second since it's not working like release 1. First stops/saves/continues at 20 min. intervals. Second does not stop/save until it hits the 4GB files size limit of FAT32 files system. It should start another 4GB file after that like Release 1, but currently doesn't restart.

Not sure what poor video quality you are referring to. There is still a white balance issue, and some over-saturation of colors, but those have been there since day one. I am expecting more firmware improvements to address these short comings.
Tom, I was referring to post 4222 where he says: ... just received the #11 cam that works great, nice picture .... I updated the cam, the time stamp is gone but now my videos are crap. Grass is now blue and sky is white, the rest of the colors are weird too.

and post 4087 where he says: ... upload the new continuous recording & remove time - release 2 firmware.... This is very fustrating and sometimes i see so crappy quality, what i never from this camera...

Maybe their problems were unrelated to the firmware upgrade, but they sounded like the upgrade caused the problem ???
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