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Old Mar 21, 2011, 06:46 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tom,
wow that's a pretty cool s/w patch..
Thanks.. I have gone thru the FAQ's but reading 'em is one thing .. understanding them another, and at the time i skimmed thry it assuming this cheap little bitty keycam would be too stupid to know when it was about too loose battery vltg, OR overflow the memory.. that's pretty neat! JimS
The chips are small, but they are pretty SMART!
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 07:36 PM
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Asheville,NC
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Rc'd my little key cam today , ordered from Hxelepro on 03/06/2011. Hope I got the correct one ?? HD 720P No Card Hmmm a trip to Best Buy in order I suppose....te
i TOOK Tom's advice and ordered one per his link at DMS
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Last edited by Tom Eutsler; Mar 21, 2011 at 08:03 PM. Reason: TO ADD
Old Mar 21, 2011, 11:10 PM
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YouTube compatibility with raw No 11?

my 120MB clip is sitting at zero % uploaded "starting Upload" .. its been 10 minutes.. should I cancel.?

is the native .mov file format incompatible with out pre-editing and re-rendering it into .mp4 ( sometiing I more typically do is pre-edit before posting clips on YouTube.. ?

Just curious..
JimS

--------------

Never mind.. i canceled and simply tried it a second time .. no change.. now it's at 16% and growing.. YouTube gets stuck at times I think..
JimS
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 11:19 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
my 120MB clip is sitting at zero % uploaded "starting Upload" .. its been 10 minutes.. should I cancel.?

is the native .mov file format incompatible with out pre-editing and re-rendering it into .mp4 ( sometiing I more typically do is pre-edit before posting clips on YouTube.. ?

Just curious..
JimS
YouTube bandwidth is so cluttered with junk uploads and it's HD implementation lags behind other free hosting sites. Take a look at Vimeo.com and Exposureroom.com. The former is an easier to use free service, but limits you to 500 MB/week and one HD upload per week in the free service arena. ExposureRoom has unlimited uploads and the best HD quality, but is a bit more cumbersome to use and targeted more at the serious video clients. Both will take the native files as uploads, and you can download the original from there by others if you give access. Uploads go right away typically, but the transcoding on the other end can sometimes take up to 1/2 hour, depending on the upload traffic. Vimeo has a pay service in addition to free hosting, and the pay service uplods get priority in transcoding. Exposureroom upload speed is the fastest. The RCGroups posts will automatically insert a Flash player for your Vimeo uploads, just like YouTube clips, but if you want that with an Exposureroom clip, you need to copy and paste the HTML code with your video from the site if you want a picture and clickable player with you post.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 11:34 PM
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Tom,
thanks for the tips on hosting services, I cancelled my Paid Vimeo access a while back due to an incompatibility with my Editor on uploads, ( they werent HD a couple years back coming from a HF-100 and rendered to i can't remember what format now.., anyway, i should look into Exposure Room..

Meanwhile that raw clip posted fine the second time round..

1st Sailing clip from new 808 No 11 720p HD keycam (2 min 10 sec)


so I'm stoked cause some times you do get more than you pay for.. (ie: free)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
YouTube bandwidth is so cluttered with junk uploads and it's HD implementation lags behind other free hosting sites. ..
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:58 AM
The Hun in the Sun
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Canada, BC, Comox
Joined Nov 2003
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Here's a couple more, taken from my Velocity R/C T-33. I made a small foam pod that allowed me to mount the camera on the top of the vertical fin. The low passes sure give a feel of the speed! In the first video, my buddy and I went up with both our T-Birds to try and do some air to air shots. He had a camera too, and followed me around. Unfortunately, he crashed half way through the flight. The micro SD card was ejected from the camera at the crash sight and we couldn't find it. The second video is mainly high speed passes.
T-33's Over Vancouver Island (5 min 54 sec)

Velocity R/C T-33 High Speed Passes (2 min 9 sec)
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 11:55 AM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
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Running Fast

Hi guys, new poster here.

Forgive me if I missed it, but I have read through most of this massive thread and done a few searches.

I just bought this #11 808 and love it. But I have one annoying problem. The internal clock runs about 4 times too fast. I've reset the date several times and it keeps running fast. Is this a new problem or have I missed this being addressed somewhere in the thread?

I'm using a Transcend class 6, 4gb card. . .not that I think that matters.

Thanks for any help
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 11:58 AM
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Montreal, Canada
Joined Sep 2008
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Got my #11 camera from hxelepro360 today (ordered march 1st, airmail is sloooow shipping to Canada). I only did a few test videos with it (no flying yet!) and upgraded the firmware twice without any problems by following the steps in the first post, first to turn off the date and then once more after I found the continuous recording firmware that Tom posted.

I did not have the "camera appears dead longer than 5 seconds on first firmware update" problem (does it have a name?), everything went as expected. Battery was almost fully charged already. Videos are real HD, 1280x720, AVC1 (H.264), with no dropped frames like the older #808 keyfobs, on a cheap 8GB Class 4 MicroSD card.

One weird thing I noticed on my first video (before I removed the datestamp) is that the clock on mine is about 3x slower than real time. When I had the datestamp shown, each second would take 3 seconds to increase. Nothing else in the camera seems to be affected, and since I disable the datestamp anyway, I don't really care. It's not worth a trip back to china and a month's wait to get a new one.

Haven't tried the other features (photos, webcam, usb storage) because this is strictly a video camera for me. Hopefully I won't misplace this one in a week like I did with my old #7.

Cheers,
Ben.
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Last edited by Fulg; Mar 22, 2011 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Meant continuous recording, not S/S/C which is stock.
Old Mar 22, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Montreal, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl View Post
I just bought this #11 808 and love it. But I have one annoying problem. The internal clock runs about 4 times too fast.
Hey Cyberdactil, welcome to the forum! As you can see from my post above I have the reverse problem; my clock runs 3 times too slow.

I haven't seen this mentioned before (I did read through the 160+ pages but I may have missed it!), maybe someone else can shed some light on this. In my case the problem is purely cosmetic, I disabled the datestamp so I don't see the problem anymore.

Cheers,
Ben.
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Last edited by Fulg; Mar 22, 2011 at 12:15 PM.
Old Mar 22, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl View Post
Hi guys, new poster here.

Forgive me if I missed it, but I have read through most of this massive thread and done a few searches.

I just bought this #11 808 and love it. But I have one annoying problem. The internal clock runs about 4 times too fast. I've reset the date several times and it keeps running fast. Is this a new problem or have I missed this being addressed somewhere in the thread?

I'm using a Transcend class 6, 4gb card. . .not that I think that matters.

Thanks for any help
Oh that damn runaway clock! I spent days trying to find the problem. Do a search on "Runaway" on this thread and you'll find all the problems I had. It is a hardware problem and I was offered a replacement by the seller. However, because of the massive shipping costs to send it back, I negotiated a fairly good price for a replacement camera only (without cables, chargers, velcro etc.).

However, when I flash this camera with Tom's "continuous recording" firmware the problem disappears. It will come back if you flash back to one of the other firmware versions, but not immediately, or better said, under certain conditions.

If you go for this firmware, please post your results here - I would be very interested to know if Tom's firmware also works for you. BTW, you can temporarily get the clock back to normal by completely discharging or disconnecting the battery...

Good luck.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Would the Minty Boost charger be useful with the #11? I think it provides 500 ma. Anyway, it's just a small switching regulator which produces 5V output from *TWO* AAs or AAAs (or two Cs or Ds, or a LIPO), and it has the further advantage of operating all the way down to an input of little more than 1V, so you get to use pretty much all the juice the battery has.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Thanks Isoprop. I just tried the remove timestamp firmware, and it worked. But since I just purchased this, I think I'm going to wait a few days before I get more adventurous with other firmware. I don't want to brick it on its second day.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 02:40 PM
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I feel the same way .. but can see that time stamp is getting pretty annoying, so I hope you can report back as yet another successful guinea pig soon.. JimS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl View Post
Thanks Isoprop. I just tried the remove timestamp firmware, and it worked. But since I just purchased this, I think I'm going to wait a few days before I get more adventurous with other firmware. I don't want to brick it on its second day.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 02:44 PM
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Germany
Joined Feb 2011
75 Posts
Got my #11 camera today from "power-gps" after 14 day. I have succesfull flashed the continous recording firmware without any problems, the yellow light comes up after 5 sec
I use a transcend 16GB class 6 card in the cam, works fine!
Thank you for this useful thread with great informations
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 04:38 PM
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I was out flying last night in way to much wind and crash with the 808#11 the sd card popped out which I never found and the cam took a hard hit .....I got the cam home and plugged it in to charge and the red light comes on while it charges as it should.... The problem I'm having is I can't get the cam to turn back on...any suggestions?
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
I was out flying last night in way to much wind and crash with the 808#11 the sd card popped out which I never found and the cam took a hard hit .....I got the cam home and plugged it in to charge and the red light comes on while it charges as it should.... The problem I'm having is I can't get the cam to turn back on...any suggestions?
has a button stuck down?
Mike
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Don't seem like it both buttons click when i push them
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
Don't seem like it both buttons click when i push them
open up and use a lens to look for damage or things like crystals broken off (thin bright tube with 2 skinny wires out of the bottom).
you can gently flex the board then try to switch on again with your third hand.
Mike
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:16 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
Don't seem like it both buttons click when i push them
Do you get any LED activity? Did you put another flash memory card in the camera? It needs one to work, but you would normally get a flashing LED with no card in the camera when you turn it on.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:20 PM
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yes i put another sd card in and there is no led....just the red one when its charging no yellow one
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:24 PM
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New camera - perpetual blinking yellow LED

I got my #11 camera from hxelepro360 yesterday, charged it up, and tried to get it to work with a Patriot 4GB Class 10 card last night. When I turn it on the LED blinks yellow about once a second but pressing the Camera/Mode button doesn't seem to do anything, whether I press it fast or hold it down for a few seconds or longer. The LED goes off after 30 or so seconds of inactivity. When I press the On/Off button once quickly, the LED blinks yellow a bit longer once as if the camera is trying to take a still photo, and then goes back to blinking yellow.

My PC (and my Mac) both see the camera, but only the built-in 1 meg of memory although the flash card is inserted. The flash card is formatted FAT32, and works fine -- I can write and read files, format, etc, with the PC.

My guess is that the camera isn't seeing the flash card. Has anyone had a similar problem and fixed it?

Operator error on my part is definitely possible, and my apologies if I missed the answer elsewhere in the thread.

Randy
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
open up and use a lens to look for damage or things like crystals broken off (thin bright tube with 2 skinny wires out of the bottom).
you can gently flex the board then try to switch on again with your third hand.
Mike
Yeah I haven't opened it just yet but I might have to try that next ... Kinda suck I really like that cam... Might have to just suck it up and get a new one
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Racer View Post
...
When I turn it on the LED blinks yellow about once a second but pressing the Camera/Mode button doesn't seem to do anything, whether I press it fast or hold it down for a few seconds or longer. The LED goes off after 30 or so seconds of inactivity. When I press the On/Off button once quickly, the LED blinks yellow a bit longer once as if the camera is trying to take a still photo, and then goes back to blinking yellow.

My PC (and my Mac) both see the camera, but only the built-in 1 meg of memory although the flash card is inserted. The flash card is formatted FAT32, and works fine -- I can write and read files, format, etc, with the PC.

My guess is that the camera isn't seeing the flash card. Has anyone had a similar problem and fixed it?

Operator error on my part is definitely possible, and my apologies if I missed the answer elsewhere in the thread.

Randy
Yeah, blinking Yellow LED means no flash card detected. Make sure you have pushed the card FULLY into the slot. I have to use a finger nail to push it pash the edge of the case on mine to get the card to make contact and latch properly. If you've done that, then the card holder in the camera could have a dirty pin that isn't making good contact on the card traces. You could put a little alcohol on the card contacts and push it in/out repeatedly to try and clean the contacts. A worse case scenario is the card holder has a bent or broken pin in it, or is not properly soldered to the circuit board. In that case, unless there is an obvious soldering error that you can correct, I'd ask the vendor for a replacement camera. There is a case of a broken pin reported one of the old 808 cameras on the chucklohr.com web page, with pictures of how the card holder was open with a new pin soldered on, but when you should be about to get a replacement from the vendor for the cost of sending the old one back, why bother?
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I have been doing some tests with 4 AAA external batteries and have come to the conclusion that it is simply not worth using AAA (and most probably AA) batteries as an external power source.
I monitored the output voltage from the batteries under load each minute. Here is a summary:

00:00 4.92V
05:00 4.78V
10:00 4.70V
15:00 4.64V
20:00 4.60V
25:00 4.55V
30:00 4.52V - threshold between here
35:00 4.49V - and here
40:00 4.46V
45:00 4.42V
50:00 4.40V
55:00 4.36V
60:00 4.35V
62:00 4.34V
63:00 4.34V
64:00 4.33V
65:00 4.33V
66:00 4.33V
67:00 4.32V
68:00 4.32V
69:00 4.34V - From here, definitely not charging or recordiong any more
70:00 4.34V
80:00 4.34V

IOW, using the special #11 cable I could record 68 minutes (88 minutes on the second camera) before the recording stopped. I used a freshly formatted 32GB card and Tom's continuous recording firmware (4GB S/S/C). After the recording stopped, the internal LIPO had enough power for approx. 4 minutes of additional recording. I suspect this could be due to the 10 minute interval between the two tests. The 4 AAA cells were not completly discharged and had power left in them.

I made two tests with two different cameras, using the same rechargeable 1000mAh AAA cells. Results were similar but deviated by about 10 minutes total recording time.

Testing was done with a fully charged internal battery and four fully charged 1000mAh AAA cells.

After discharge, it took max. 40 minutes to fully recharge the cells.

Unfortunately I don't have a 1000$ voltmeter, so the voltages are not 100% accurate. A second voltmeter showed a difference of +0.04V, so the above figures are most probably a bit on the low side.

Considering that AA/AAA cells are today all 1.2V, the results don't surprise me that much and I almost suspected that this was what would happen. It is, however, disappointing.

Without an external power source my camera will record approx. 35 minutes. From the above figures, this means that the threshold is about 4.52V (or 4.56V on my second voltmeter).

I conclude that using 1.2V cells is not the way to go. A constant voltage of 5V is needed. This can only be obtained by using special USB battery backup packs.
You need to use 4 Alkaline cells or 5 rechargeable cells..
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yeah, blinking Yellow LED means no flash card detected. Make sure you have pushed the card FULLY into the slot. I have to use a finger nail to push it pash the edge of the case on mine to get the card to make contact and latch properly. If you've done that, then the card holder in the camera could have a dirty pin that isn't making good contact on the card traces. You could put a little alcohol on the card contacts and push it in/out repeatedly to try and clean the contacts. A worse case scenario is the card holder has a bent or broken pin in it, or is not properly soldered to the circuit board. In that case, unless there is an obvious soldering error that you can correct, I'd ask the vendor for a replacement camera. There is a case of a broken pin reported one of the old 808 cameras on the chucklohr.com web page, with pictures of how the card holder was open with a new pin soldered on, but when you should be about to get a replacement from the vendor for the cost of sending the old one back, why bother?
Thanks, Tom! The card simply wasn't latched. The camera works great, and now all I have to do is mount it on my 120 SR and wait until the wind stops blowing at 30 mph in North Texas. That should happen some time in May...

I really appreciate your help and the resources available in this thread.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:05 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Tom Frank F.Y.I. tiny lipo circuit board

My Grandson bounced his Silverlite model once too often & it didnt work any more.
I took it to bits and the lipo had become disconnected from the little pcb a very difficult job to re-connect, So.
Took the lipo from a dead #1 808 I had & fitted it to the plane - it worked . happy grandson.
The little cct board from the dead lipo had two chips, one 8 pin the other 6 pin. the 8 pin (which had a partial part number) turned out to be a dual mosfet (6Amp (?for low ON resistance?)).
Initially I had assumed the 8 pin was the controller because it was bigger - Wrong.
While Googleing I located a page on lipo protection circuits and there were several 6pin CC/CV charger controlers, some with drives to FETs for protection.
AHHA, so its 98.7% sure that is what is fitted to the lipos.
All the cct diagrams I found took 4.5-5.5v in and the 6pin looked after the lipo, both charging and low voltage protection.
Mike
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Racer View Post
Thanks, Tom! The card simply wasn't latched. The camera works great, and now all I have to do is mount it on my 120 SR and wait until the wind stops blowing at 30 mph in North Texas. That should happen some time in May...
...
Ahh.... good news.... the simplest problem with the simplest solution! Post up some vids when you get a chance.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
My Grandson bounced his Silverlite model once too often & it didnt work any more.
I took it to bits and the lipo had become disconnected from the little pcb a very difficult job to re-connect, So.
Took the lipo from a dead #1 808 I had & fitted it to the plane - it worked . happy grandson.
The little cct board from the dead lipo had two chips, one 8 pin the other 6 pin. the 8 pin (which had a partial part number) turned out to be a dual mosfet (6Amp (?for low ON resistance?)).
Initially I had assumed the 8 pin was the controller because it was bigger - Wrong.
While Googleing I located a page on lipo protection circuits and there were several 6pin CC/CV charger controlers, some with drives to FETs for protection.
AHHA, so its 98.7% sure that is what is fitted to the lipos.
All the cct diagrams I found took 4.5-5.5v in and the 6pin looked after the lipo, both charging and low voltage protection.
Mike
Are you referring to the small lipo circuit board on a battery from an old 808? You could be right. Info I once read on chucklohr.com seemed to say on the one that was checked out there, the circuit board was found to only stop charging when the voltage got too high, and stop discharge when the voltage got too low. Nothing said about CC-CV logic during the charge, but I doubt any attempt was made to measure that.

Your description seems to match the circuit board pics on our #11 lipos, too. What is confusing, though, is that there is also a charging IC of some kind on the #11 main circuit board (see pic in post #2). I'm guessing they get the batteries with the small board already soldered to the lipo tabs, and they just connect them to the main board that way. So maybe the #11 has dual protection!

FWIW, I just got a replacement battery from my vendor, and it came with the circuit board already attached, complete with wires, which were shorter than the ones on my old battery. I found it was easier and safer to unsolder the wires from the battery circuit board and connect the ones already soldered to the main board to the battery board. This also alleviated the need to run the shorter wires to different points of connection on the main board as we saw was done on some cameras. This is likely the reason that was done.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 11:38 PM
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Correcting #11 Vignetting With Post Processing

If you are happy with your #11 videos and hate editing or post processing, do yourself a favor and skip the rest of this post!

For the more discriminating, this subject came up some time ago in this thread, with the possibility of correcting vignetting using a filter mask in Vdub. And a way to make a filter mask that matches your camera vignetting exactly was also mentioned. I had planned to follow up on that, but never got around to it.

Then, last night I found by chance that my commercial editor, MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 17 Plus (MEP), has this capability built in. There is a 16:9 vignetting that does not match my camera's vignetting exactly, but I tried to see what it could do. I was more than pleasantly surprised! It enables changing everything (brightness, contrast, color saturation, R/G/B, white balance, etc. in the masked areas separate from the rest of the image. And as the darkness of the mask blends smoothly from black, through shades of gray, to white, the changes made are gradually diminished, such that it's possible to make the darker edges and corners caused by lens vigenetting melt away! I uploaded this video clip showing the original with the one I corrected with this method below it. Considering the mask does not match my camera vignetting exactly, it turned out very visibly improved along right/left edges and in the corners. Attached is a picture of two frame grabs from the original (on top) and the corrected one at the bottom (that one also has some sharpening added).

<EDIT>
Here is another example of vignetting correction using AviDemux and MEP editors using a filter mask created with and for my specific camera. And this post describes the filter masks in more detail and how you can make one with and for your specific camera.
<EDIT>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Apr 17, 2011 at 04:40 PM. Reason: added more examples and details of correcting vignetting with filters/masks.
Old Mar 22, 2011, 11:47 PM
Misfit Multirotor Monkey
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Looks very nice and an obvious sharpening.

How long does it take to process a gig of .mov, for example?
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 11:54 PM
**** 37130 ****
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Joined Aug 2007
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Back to the drawing board.

This should amuse you.

For a while I have been considering towing the #11 behind a plane to get some in-flight shots, so I made up a simple wing, just a triangle of depron with two vertical fins. The camera was slung underneath in its Tic Tac housing and the whole lot attached to my TSII with about 12 ft of fishing line.

I had hoped the wing would be light and draggy enough for it to simply hold station behind the tow plane, but it flew about 8 ft below the tow plane at all speeds, which made take off and landing interesting.


Back to the drawing board (2 min 22 sec)
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
This should amuse you.

For a while I have been considering towing the #11 behind a plane to get some in-flight shots, so I made up a simple wing, just a triangle of depron with two vertical fins. The camera was slung underneath in its Tic Tac housing and the whole lot attached to my TSII with about 12 ft of fishing line.

I had hoped the wing would be light and draggy enough for it to simply hold station behind the tow plane, but it flew about 8 ft below the tow plane at all speeds, which made take off and landing interesting.
I did get a chuckle out of the take off and landing, but I have to give you a big "A" for effort! The more stable tow platforms for video I've seen used two tow lines, from wing tips on tow plane to wing tips on the video platform. If you only used a single line, you've got an amazingly stable platform!. Either some up angle on the camera, or a bigger/higher lift platform wing and you should have a winner. Something the size of the #11 camera might fly pretty good on a simple, cheap balsa hand launch glider?

Post some video of your next attempt, and good luck!
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdactyl View Post
Looks very nice and an obvious sharpening.

How long does it take to process a gig of .mov, for example?
I've only done this for the 36 sec. video clip I uploaded, and I didn't time it, but it seemed to process at pretty much the same speed on my higher end PC as it would have just for the normal re-encoding. I re-encoded with H.264 with video bit rate set to 6500 kbps, just like the original, although I stuffed it in an .AVI wrapper rather than .MOV. The vignetting correction was on-going frame-by-frame at the same time, and speed will depend on the your PC, software, codec, bit rate, etc., so YMMV would likely be different from mine.

A rough estimate on my PC is that re-encoding with some processing going on is on the order of the same time it takes to play the video at normal speed.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I did get a chuckle out of the take off and landing, but I have to give you a big "A" for effort! The more stable tow platforms for video I've seen used two tow lines, from wing tips on tow plane to wing tips on the video platform. If you only used a single line, you've got an amazingly stable platform!. Either some up angle on the camera, or a bigger/higher lift platform wing and you should have a winner. Something the size of the #11 camera might fly pretty good on a simple, cheap balsa hand launch glider?

Post some video of your next attempt, and good luck!
Thanks Tom

I was pleased with the stability, so MKII is on the drawing board and will have an adjustable camera platform.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 01:32 AM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined May 2008
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Here's a video with a mix of #11 and #3 footage. It's from two separate models flying formation (or trying to).

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Old Mar 23, 2011, 04:41 AM
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Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
.............
Then, last night I found by chance that my commercial editor (MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 17 Plus) has this capability built in. There is a 16:9 vignetting mask built in. It does not match my camera's vignetting exactly, but I tried to see what it could do................
What do you think of the results?
Wow, very impressive, I will take a look into this MAGIX thing, need one of this editing software for my sons film producer career anyway
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 08:00 AM
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United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
This should amuse you.

For a while I have been considering towing the #11 behind a plane to get some in-flight shots, so I made up a simple wing, just a triangle of depron with two vertical fins. The camera was slung underneath in its Tic Tac housing and the whole lot attached to my TSII with about 12 ft of fishing line.

I had hoped the wing would be light and draggy enough for it to simply hold station behind the tow plane, but it flew about 8 ft below the tow plane at all speeds, which made take off and landing interesting.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKWrYO_L-O0
Thats quite stable. I tried a carbon rod tow line, works ok

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3458
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 10:03 AM
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Wow Vic,
that's cool .. I've got to try that .. but on a couple "different " types of vehicles... takes all of the "spin" out at least.. will post later once I get them made.. JimS
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 10:04 AM
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Wow Vic,
that's cool .. I've got to try that .. but on a couple "different " types of vehicles... takes all of the "spin" out at least.. will post results here later once I get them made.. JimS
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
This should amuse you.

For a while I have been considering towing the #11 behind a plane to get some in-flight shots, so I made up a simple wing, just a triangle of depron with two vertical fins. The camera was slung underneath in its Tic Tac housing and the whole lot attached to my TSII with about 12 ft of fishing line.

I had hoped the wing would be light and draggy enough for it to simply hold station behind the tow plane, but it flew about 8 ft below the tow plane at all speeds, which made take off and landing interesting.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKWrYO_L-O0
Love it! Have thought about doing this same thing, but with gyro stabilization, separate xmitter, same xmitter, some kind of control system based on position of tow rope, even a drone that stays parked until airborne, then line extended after takeoff and retracted prior to landing...and much more. Glad to see someone try this.... I'm not the only one out there.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photoart View Post
Wow, very impressive, I will take a look into this MAGIX thing, need one of this editing software for my sons film producer career anyway
There is a free download with all the features intact... good for a couple weeks trial, but can be extended for a second two weel period, I think. It has a ton of features... which means there is a learning curve with it. MAGIX is a German company and you can purchase on their site ($99.99 US), but it's also available from places like Amazon.com and Newegg.com for about 65$ US (delivered) if you can use those web stores cost-effectively where you are.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
Thanks Tom

I was pleased with the stability, so MKII is on the drawing board and will have an adjustable camera platform.
When you get it working, include some pics and details in case others want to do it. I'll add a link in the "Frankencam" post #5
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Chemistry doesn't seem to matter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
May be worth putting your conclusion in perspective by mentioning how long you need to supply external power?

Your tests for recording time with 1000 mAH AAA cells is not nearly what I experienced with just 800 mAH AAA Eneloop NiMH cells. Starting with fully charged external 4 cell pack and internal lipo, my 4GB flash card filled up in 73 min. (at the 7000 kbps recording bit rate of my camera), which is all I want to do with the external pack. I wiped the card without recharging anything and let the camera continue to record until power finally died, and the total recording time from start to finish was 123 min. 23 sec.! A LOT longer than you got. Difference might be due to the quality or ability of the cells to hold voltage under load, or if your camera records at the 10,000 kbps recording bit rate, it might be consuming considerably more power?

At any rate, I think it's fair to say a 4 cell AAA pack can be OK as an external power source, depending on how long you need to supply power. If the intent is to only power the camera long enough to fill a 4GB flash card (which is all I wanted), AAA cells should be quite adequate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
You need to use 4 Alkaline cells or 5 rechargeable cells..
Well, I went and bought 4 AAA Eneloop 800mAh rechargeable batteries. I charged them once before the test.

With the Eneloop 800mAh batteries I get 78 minutes recording, which is almost the exact same recording time that I obtained with Energizer 1000mAh batteries. There is no way that I can get a recording time in excess of 80 minutes. I don't know how you managed, Tom. All my testing is now done at 7 Mb/s.

My tests are done in the celar (low lighting). I just film the voltmeter - very interesting scenery

Using 4 AAs is a different story - my 8GB card overflowed...

I will continue testing. I have not yet measured the current drawn. Also, I'll remove the 1A reverse current protection diode in the battery case.

@ livonia bob: Yes, I expect 4 Alkaline would work much better, but that would become expensive. I also suspect that NiCADs would give better results, but those are hard to find these days.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Well, I went and bought 4 AAA Eneloop 800mAh rechargeable batteries. I charged them once before the test.

With the Eneloop 800mAh batteries I get 78 minutes recording, which is almost the exact same recording time that I obtained with Energizer 1000mAh batteries. There is no way that I can get a recording time in excess of 80 minutes. I don't know how you managed, Tom. All my testing is now done at 7 Mb/s.
The only thing I can think of that could be different is a few more cycles on the NiMH cells might increase their performance, the internal lipo might be a factor and maybe the CMOS chip.

Shortly after I ran my test, my stock lipo started to deteriorate. After a few more vids it could only record continuously to 28 minutes, instead of it's original 40+ minutes. Is your camera the version 2 like mine with the different CMOS chip and number printed on the ribbon cable? If not, mine might have lower current draw. Can't think of anything else, but I just installed a new internal lipo which records for just over 40 minutes on it's own, so might redo my test.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Austin, TX
Joined Sep 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
This should amuse you.

For a while I have been considering towing the #11 behind a plane to get some in-flight shots, so I made up a simple wing, just a triangle of depron with two vertical fins. The camera was slung underneath in its Tic Tac housing and the whole lot attached to my TSII with about 12 ft of fishing line.
That was very good. Please post photos of the first version. I would like to get good video of the area surrounding my field and this is a great way to not have to shoot video through a prop of the plane.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The only thing I can think of that could be different is a few more cycles on the NiMH cells might increase their performance, the internal lipo might be a factor and maybe the CMOS chip.

Shortly after I ran my test, my stock lipo started to deteriorate. After a few more vids it could only record continuously to 28 minutes, instead of it's original 40+ minutes. Is your camera the version 2 like mine with the different CMOS chip and number printed on the ribbon cable? If not, mine might have lower current draw. Can't think of anything else, but I just installed a new internal lipo which records for just over 40 minutes on it's own, so might redo my test.
Yes, my camera is version 2 with the number printed on the CMOS ribbon cable, BUT, I have to switch from 10 Mb/s to 7 Mb/s by first taking a photo.

I will be continuing my tests, because I want to get behind this. I can't get over that you can get almost DOUBLE my recording times.

I want to rule out the protection diode as the problem, maybe it drops the voltage enough for the camera to think the battery is depleted - but I doubt this theory.

I have tried three different chargers, so I can rule out the batteries not being fully charged.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
I want to rule out the protection diode as the problem, maybe it drops the voltage enough for the camera to think the battery is depleted - but I doubt this theory.
...
Don't you normally get about a .7V drop going through a diode? That's a lot when the input voltage is so marginal to begin with. My external pack has no diode protection, so that seems to me like a very possible factor.

When I ran an earlier test with my RX 4 cell NiCad pack, I filled the 4GB SD card (that's about 73 minutes worth of video right there), the internal battery was still fully charged when I finished, and the NiCad pack still had just over 5V (resting) on it afterwards. I think it was like 5.03V or something like that.. there's a post on this earlier. The NiMH cells shouldn't do quite so well, but the fully charged lipo should add another 40+ minutes, getting up to 113 minutes of video by itself.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 05:24 PM
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Southern Oregon
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a question

First off, thank you to everyone here and back over at the original 808 thread... I've now got five the old #3 and one new HD camera... I've learned so much! so much so that I've designed two planes around this camera, (The "EyePlane"... it's own build thread in this forum and this new micro scale UAV (28" span, 17sgr AUW (with including camera), using a 10gr BL 18-11 2000kv motor), both using the "EyePod" camera mount system (also a separate thread in this forum...) with all designed specifically around this camera.

The question I have is about play back mode... I have a HD camera purchased around Christmas. When I play back on my computer, the video files appear on my computer in Quick Time movie format. When I play them they are pretty much a very frozen image but with with seamless sound... (I've tried waiting until the entire file uploads before playing... no change...) The SD card I'm using is a Transcend 8GB Class 6. When I edit these quick time files, I use the Roxio Creator 2009 video editing program... The images still appear pretty "frozen/jerky" (at best) during editing... When I output the final edited video, they are flawless without any jerking... See attached video. (The ground to air shots were taken using an old Hi8 video tape camera.)

Any suggestions as to how to view the quick time files as a smooth video before editing? Is this just the nature of the beast? It would make editing so much easier if I had smoother footage to work with.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! (PS: I would be what most would consider "Computer Challenged" lol!

Best,
Richard

Attaching a few photos of the new micro UAV (It's not ready for release yet... later this spring) and inserting a short 1 minute video of the indoor maiden flight. The "targeted" shot of an airborne hovering helicopter was taken by positioning the HD camera sideways and banking around the helicopter in an attempt to keep the camera locked onto it's target.

At best, I hope you enjoy!

UAV kit, indoor flying with onboard footage (1 min 1 sec)
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 05:31 PM
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empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
... Also, I'll remove the 1A reverse current protection diode in the battery case...
that diode will drop the battery output by aprox 0.7V
Mike
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 05:44 PM
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Can it auto edit?

Tom,
can you put MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 17 Plus into an auto-editing mode that finds all the "interesting" scenes, and edits out all the boring ones with little or no action automajically?

I find myself pouring over a lot of dull footage with little happening in the foreground, simply to clip it out and keep the remaining action where there's activity and faces in the foreground.. I'd like to take a long clip from the camcorder and let the editor slice and dice it on it's own, perhaps putting random transitions in between.... especially if I could add selected scenes back that should not have been clipped later.. can it do that?

Also I don't do 3D but wonder if I loose the means to export to an iPad if I don't get the HD version?

Thanks in a advance.. JimS.
planning to download the demo HD version tonight..
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 06:31 PM
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Sofia, Bulgaria
Joined Jan 2011
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Take a look what I found today in one of my favourite online shops --> HD 720p Car Key Shaped Spy Camera DVR Digital Video Recorder Voice Recorder
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 06:52 PM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinG0 View Post
Take a look what I found today in one of my favourite online shops --> HD 720p Car Key Shaped Spy Camera DVR Digital Video Recorder Voice Recorder
This seem to be 808 #12 camera which we had wrote some here. It is bad quality (high frame missing). More info here:

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C12/index.html

Otherwise I didn't received any reply to my post #2346 about solar power chargers.

Finally I give you a snowboarding video of this days. It is not RC related, but it is another 808 #11 camera recording:
http://www.vimeo.com/21362062

I edited with (easy-use) Openshot Video Editor in Linux, and filtered with Tom Frank filters setup of post #1505 on Avidemux.

Thanks for watching
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Last edited by abelvarela; Mar 23, 2011 at 06:59 PM.
Old Mar 23, 2011, 09:54 PM
Registered User
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarel design View Post
First off, thank you to everyone here and back over at the original 808 thread... I've now got five the old #3 and one new HD camera... I've learned so much! so much so that I've designed two planes around this camera, (The "EyePlane"... it's own build thread in this forum and this new micro scale UAV (28" span, 17sgr AUW (with including camera), using a 10gr BL 18-11 2000kv motor), both using the "EyePod" camera mount system (also a separate thread in this forum...) with all designed specifically around this camera.

The question I have is about play back mode... I have a HD camera purchased around Christmas. When I play back on my computer, the video files appear on my computer in Quick Time movie format. When I play them they are pretty much a very frozen image but with with seamless sound... (I've tried waiting until the entire file uploads before playing... no change...) The SD card I'm using is a Transcend 8GB Class 6. When I edit these quick time files, I use the Roxio Creator 2009 video editing program... The images still appear pretty "frozen/jerky" (at best) during editing... When I output the final edited video, they are flawless without any jerking... See attached video. (The ground to air shots were taken using an old Hi8 video tape camera.)

Any suggestions as to how to view the quick time files as a smooth video before editing? Is this just the nature of the beast? It would make editing so much easier if I had smoother footage to work with.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! (PS: I would be what most would consider "Computer Challenged" lol!

Best,
Richard

Attaching a few photos of the new micro UAV (It's not ready for release yet... later this spring) and inserting a short 1 minute video of the indoor maiden flight. The "targeted" shot of an airborne hovering helicopter was taken by positioning the HD camera sideways and banking around the helicopter in an attempt to keep the camera locked onto it's target.

At best, I hope you enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxUSebBsLmk
HEY Richard
Might be a computer speed issue, what format was the final edited video in.
If it was outputed as mpg2, the computer requirments are a lot lower.
RUD
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tom,
can you put MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 17 Plus into an auto-editing mode that finds all the "interesting" scenes, and edits out all the boring ones with little or no action automajically?

I find myself pouring over a lot of dull footage with little happening in the foreground, simply to clip it out and keep the remaining action where there's activity and faces in the foreground.. I'd like to take a long clip from the camcorder and let the editor slice and dice it on it's own, perhaps putting random transitions in between.... especially if I could add selected scenes back that should not have been clipped later.. can it do that?

Also I don't do 3D but wonder if I loose the means to export to an iPad if I don't get the HD version?

Thanks in a advance.. JimS.
planning to download the demo HD version tonight..
Nope... this is not a one-click kind of editor! The Vista version of WMM could do a one=click movie, but I never liked what it selected for me, nor the music it inserted, and spent more time undoing it and modifying it that it would have taken me to do it from scratch.

But the MAGIX editor version I have CAN automatically scan a video and mark the in/out points of what it considers major scene changes, and you can toggle the sensitivity of where it places those scene markers. But you then have to go look at where it placed the markers, decide if you want to cut, keep, or change, then finish up the editing your self. It CAN automatically create slide show "movies", where you just put in the still pictures you want, and it will make them into a continuous movie show, with fancy transitions, etc. Don't know if that work with movie clips or not... never tried it.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Geek View Post
That was very good. Please post photos of the first version. I would like to get good video of the area surrounding my field and this is a great way to not have to shoot video through a prop of the plane.
Will post some pics later today.

I have moved the line attachment to a point below the camera in an attempt to stop it digging into the grass and hopefully kite up behind the tow plane.

Watch tis space.
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 10:48 PM
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Well in spite of that, the scene detect may be enough..
i think its worth a try for sure,

.. my Pinnacle Studio 14 Ultimate works ok for what I'm doing but it irritates me that I have to pay for any optional stuff.. and I can't render files from a Flip HD or older 808 type 3's for some odd TBD reason.. I would like to directly export to an iPad as well.. (tho i cam play most .mp4's i create from it on iPad/iPod.. now..)

have you used the export to Blue Ray with a No 11.. is it pretty sharp on a HDTV? Thanks For the Tips.. JimS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Nope... this is not a one-click kind of editor!...
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Southern Oregon
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I'm guessing you could be right about computer speed... I'm using a Dell, Pentium 4, 2.0 GHZ with 2.0 GB of RAM with Windows XP Professional. (At least that's what I read on the control panel/system window) there are many times when I'm using the video editor that the computer will freeze and crash (Seems to happen more when I'm editing a large clip)... I've learned to save every step, edit, change etc while I'm editing... sometimes just few steps and it will crash.. Output is in an. mpg format.

I only see the frozen images in the raw quick time format uploaded directly from the camera...

If this fits what you are suggesting, then at least I'll know what it is and maybe try converting the files to mpg2 or try any of the other options for editing purposes and then convert them back to whatever format the application requires...or... if this doesn't work, just accept it until I upgrade to a newer more powerful computer (This one is probably 5 years old?)...

I'm working on a few more AP aircraft designs with one designed for a some day to be purchased Hero GoPro camera...

Thanks

Richard
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarel design View Post
I'm guessing you could be right about computer speed... I'm using a Dell, Pentium 4, 2.0 GHZ with 2.0 GB of RAM with Windows XP Professional.
...
Yep, that's the "problem". The H.264 codec taxes my W7 (64 bit) Dell PC with quad core CPU running over 50% faster with 12GB of ram, even with some tasks off-loaded to the GPU on my higher end video card! Your PC and OS are at least three generations out of date by now.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
...
Have you used the export to Blue Ray with a No 11.. is it pretty sharp on a HDTV? Thanks For the Tips.. JimS
Nope... I don't have a blu-ray player, just DVD. I have streamed some of the native clips from my HD cameras to my 62 in. HDTV though, and they look pretty decent at that size all things considered.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:35 AM
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Thanks Tom, at least it's nice to know there's nothing "wrong" with my computer, just too "little" and too old... I kind of suspected that, still totally enjoying the "new" HD version of this little camera!

When it comes time for a new computer I'll probably come back here for some suggestions and do some research to do as much as possible to make it video friendly! lol! Especially since I've gotten so hooked on aerial videography!

Thanks again,

Richard
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 06:08 AM
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Southwest England
Joined Nov 2010
331 Posts
Finally got a chance to flight test my HD mini DV, but paragliding and not model flying!
Biggest problem I find is not degrading the video when editing and saving?

Vimeo in HD is probably best quality, though they have compressed it by another 50%. There was no blocking or artifacts on my original. But still some colour hunting.

I tend to turn the camera on and off and record short clips of a few mins or less and using it this way I got motorboating noise at 35 mins. And I do make a point of charging carefully.

If your pc can't cope with hd, download it and watch it with VLC media player or similar.

The video does show what is possible with these little babes.

YouTube link is here. Even full screen at 480 it gives an idea of the quality.
Paragliding, Beesands, a 'proper' HD key chain mini dv movie. (3 min 51 sec)


Paragliding, Beesands, Devon. mini DV Key Chain Camera HD Video (3 min 51 sec)
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 06:49 AM
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Hey Bob, that was a really enjoyable video! Beautiful countryside...
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:04 AM
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Sofia, Bulgaria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abelvarela View Post
This seem to be 808 #12 camera which we had wrote some here. It is bad quality (high frame missing). More info here:

http://www.chucklohr.com/808/C12/index.html
I see...And how about this FULL HD small camera --> HD 1080p Car Key Shaped Spy Camera DVR Digital Video Recorder Voice Recorder VDV-30551 ?

Does anyone know anything about it?
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
....
Well done. Nice and dreamy Thanks
Mike
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 09:03 AM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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"Keycam on a lipo" project completed!

Hey all,

Sorry it took so long for me to post this, but my UBECs from Hong Kong only just arrived yesterday (now THAT is some long shipping!). I tested them out, then used a piar of 3S lipo extensions to make myself a 3S lipo Y adapter and the remaining portion was used to make the 3S lipo to UBEC to USB adapter cable. I ended up just cutting the USB connector end off the cam's car charger because for one I really didn't need the car charger anymore after this anyway, and also because I wasn't sure if one of my own USB cables would even have the right wiring, and also this made it a lot easier since I already knew that the red wire was going to pin four on the connector.

In fairly short order (I took care to build this thing right), I ended up with what you see in the photo. It takes input from the 2S part of a 3S lipo pack (I really hope that wasn't a bad idea...) sends it down to the UBEC which then outputs 5.11VDC down the USB cable to the keycam, specifically the 808HD #11.

I tested it last night by hooking everything up and then aiming the camera at my digital alarm clock. The memory card had a few files already on it but only small ones, and had about 3.7GB free. Two hours later for good measure, the memory card was full, with three new 1GB files and one 518MB one. The first three report "cannot render the file" when I try them in Media Player Classic, but that's a typical error and I can fix it easily by passing them through MP4Cam2AVI. The final, short file plays just fine.

When I plugged the camera into the computer's USB port to see the files after the test, the red light flickered so fast that I might have missed it had I not been watching closely, and then stayed dark, meaning the camera was at full charge by that point. Also, before I disconnected it from the lipo rig, both camera and UBEC were cool, meaning the camera had completed it's run and switched itself off, and the UBEC wasn't doing any charging to the cam. During the test, the LM2576 regulator on the UBEC was warm to the touch, inidicating that it was in fact passing a fair bit of current to the camera. This was the reason I chose to go with the 2S connection - to reduce heating on that UBEC. I can see consequences of that choice so I hope that was a good idea.

Anyway... It works! I don't have time to process the resuling cam video right now, but I will tonight when I get home from work, and I'll make a timelapse out of it so you can see the little numbers fly by on the clock.

The whole point of this was to make a cable suitable for powering the cam off a 3S lipo balance connector while actually IN FLIGHT aboard an RC plane. Although it is heavier than I would have liked, it will ride on my FPV EasyStar just fine, taped down here and there to the wind saddle and then wing of the plane. I'll finally be able to max the memory cards out, and stop coming home with lost footage. :-)

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this project, namely Tom for all of his hard work on this thread!

More to follow!

Rick NR417
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 09:19 AM
**** 37130 ****
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinG0 View Post
I see...And how about this FULL HD small camera --> HD 1080p Car Key Shaped Spy Camera DVR Digital Video Recorder Voice Recorder VDV-30551 ?

Does anyone know anything about it?
Only that it dispenses anti-depressants.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
Only that it dispenses anti-depressants.
It's Clomipramine head...
I found more info about it at Alibaba -->HD 1080P high-definiton video keychain spy video camera
Quote:
Specifications

* 1920*1080 Video resolution
* 15 frame per seconds
* AV-OUTPUT function
* USB 2.0
* Money testing function

Product Features:
* Compact shape design of product,carry out the whole machine grinds arenaceous,fashionable wearrisisting,equipped with various portable tools
* Support network cameras ,accumulated network chat function
* Support TV wtching in real time
* Support the AVI video format
* In low illumination,can undertake high-definition video recording
* Video format for 1920*1080 15 frames per second
* High-speed tranmission USB 2.0 interface
* Ultraviolet anti-counterfeiting LED indicator
* Maximum support 64G TF card
* Built-in Lithium battery sustainable camera for 90 minutes,standby time 300 hours
15 FPS ... too bad, but I'm interested to see some real video samples.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 10:12 AM
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Bob,
Excellent video editing and scene selection/ planning/ transitions and the Sade Background music is great too.. What a neat comparison..
Thank you very much! for posting it.. gives a lot of us a great sample of what's possible alight..

Regards, JimS

[QUOTE=bobflyman;17771323]Finally got a chance to flight test my HD mini DV, but paragliding and not model flying!
Biggest problem I find is not degrading the video when editing and saving?

Vimeo in HD is probably best quality,..

The video does show what is possible with these little babes.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Glad you enjoyed it guys, even a small clip like that was a good couple of hours or more in the editing! And the music was a lucky find while looking for something to background it.
I'm lucky to live in a lovely part of the UK too.
You might enjoy this clip too, which was made with a standard definition 3# camera, and an MD 80? It also shows just what's possible even with the SD version.
Yacht Delivery V2. MD80 and 808 mini DV camera Epic Movie. (10 min 0 sec)
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Geek View Post
That was very good. Please post photos of the first version. I would like to get good video of the area surrounding my field and this is a great way to not have to shoot video through a prop of the plane.
Here you go...
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 12:36 PM
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Jarel Design said: "....When I play back on my computer, the video files appear on my computer in Quick Time movie format. When I play them they are pretty much a very frozen image but with with seamless sound. .... When I edit these quick time files, I use the Roxio Creator 2009 video editing program... The images still appear pretty "frozen/jerky" (at best) during editing... When I output the final edited video, they are flawless without any jerking... ...Any suggestions as to how to view the quick time files as a smooth video before editing."
Jarel, I have had similar issues with Roxio EMC9. You can try the following, it worked for me. First, I change the MOV to AVI with either of these free programs - Freemaker, or Pazera MOV to AVI. Roxio likes both their outputs. Freemaker is slightly easier to use, but Pazera gives more parameters and options. Once converted I usually use WMM to edit for final output because for some reason, Roxio occasionally will stop responding. Hope that helps.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 12:39 PM
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bobflyman,
Loved both of your clips. Very enjoyable and nice music. I've seen the yacht clip somewhere before but it was pleasant to watch again. Excellent camera work and editing.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 01:35 PM
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Thanks Zrobbie. I just watched the yacht delivery one again myself and actually enjoyed it too! (Sometimes I look at a vid a few months down the line and think, should have cropped that, or cut that, but I'm quite content with that one. ) It was the first video I'd ever made of a sailing trip and I've been doing it for 40 years and for a living for 15.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Hey all,

...
Anyway... It works!
...
The whole point of this was to make a cable suitable for powering the cam off a 3S lipo balance connector while actually IN FLIGHT aboard an RC plane. Although it is heavier than I would have liked, it will ride on my FPV EasyStar just fine, taped down here and there to the wind saddle and then wing of the plane. I'll finally be able to max the memory cards out, and stop coming home with lost footage. :-)
...
Rick NR417
Thanks for confirming your test results. I was thinking of doing something similar using the BEC circuit on an old ESC I have that gave up the ghost on the motor power side, assuming the LVC function is still working. But I was considering using a small 2 cell lipo for power instead of the tapping the 2S pin on the 3S flight lipo. Either way works, but I was just wanting to avoid the imbalance in the flight pack cells during discharge.

The camera should be drawing about 300 mA while recording, so a 15 min. flight would consume about 75 mAH from two cells... probably not a big deal on a larger flight lipo, but might be worth bumping up the the LVC a tick if your ESC has that ability until you can check to see how the cell balance turns out on your smallest flight lipo. Pulling the voltage too low on the two cells powering the camera during a flight with a smaller capacity flight lipo is the only down possible down side I can see with doing this, and the risk is probably minimal, but worth checking.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:19 PM
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I ordered a wide angle lense from Deal Extreme 16 days ago and it hasn't shown up. They suggest contacting them after 14 days, which I've done, but they haven't got back to me. I've ordered from them before and never had any problems. Has anyone else had probs?

Plus, re external powering up. I'm just experimenting with powering the cig lighter with 10 v from an adjustable power supply to see if the camera will continuously record powered at that voltage. My idea is to power from a 3s lipo which is 11v ish. Not a lot of use for model flying, but for hand videoing it would be possible to have the lipo power supply in a pocket and just have a trailing lead to the mini dv.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:22 PM
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External AAA battery supply - more tests

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Don't you normally get about a .7V drop going through a diode? That's a lot when the input voltage is so marginal to begin with. My external pack has no diode protection, so that seems to me like a very possible factor.

When I ran an earlier test with my RX 4 cell NiCad pack, I filled the 4GB SD card (that's about 73 minutes worth of video right there), the internal battery was still fully charged when I finished, and the NiCad pack still had just over 5V (resting) on it afterwards. I think it was like 5.03V or something like that.. there's a post on this earlier. The NiMH cells shouldn't do quite so well, but the fully charged lipo should add another 40+ minutes, getting up to 113 minutes of video by itself.
I have performed some further tests and can now record max. 87 minutes with 4 800mAh AAA external NiMH batteries or 98 minutes with 4 1000mAh AAA external NiMH batteries.
These results are better than my previous results because I removed the reverse protection diode 1N4001 in the external battery case.
87 minutes is still a long way from Tom's 113 minutes with 800mAh AAA batteries.
All testing was done using a data rate of 7 Mb/s by first taking a photo.

The 1N4001 silicon diode dropped the battery voltage by approx. 0.6V.

Using a fully charged LIPO and 4 fully charged AAA cells, the camera initially draws 170mA at 5.29V. After about 5 minutes the current stabilizes at 150mA and the voltage is at 5.0V.
The current and voltage slowly decrease. After 30 minutes, the current drawn is 145mA and the voltage is 4.8V.
At around 45 minutes the voltage is at 4.72V and the current drawn becomes erratic, jumping between 145mA and 159mA. This is the threshold after which the camera is drawing power from the internal LIPO and at the same time trying to recharge the LIPO from the external batteries. After this point, the voltage continues to slowly decrease whereas the current increases. Here is a summary using Eneloop 800mAh batteries:

00 mins. 5.29V 170mA
05 mins. 5.00V 150mA
30 mins. 4.80V 145mA
45 mins. 4.72V 145mA - 159mA (threshold, current increases)
60 mins. 4.63V 153mA
70 mins. 4.59V 155mA
80 mins. 4.56V 159mA
85 mins. 4.55V 161mA
86 mins. 4.54V 163mA
87 mins. 4.53V 166mA
88 mins. 4.52V 168mA

After the tests, the "depleted" battery pack, without load, had 5.01V remaining. This is for information only. It is of no importance.

I have repeated these tests using 2 different sets of batteries (800mAh Eneloop, 1000mAh Energizer). I also tested without an ammeter and voltmeter connected. The recording lasted 11 minutes longer with the Energizer batteries. I equate that to 200mAh for 11 minutes - not very good!

Conclusion.
- The camera will never draw more than 180mA from an external source.
- For the longest recording times, you should remove the reverse protection diode from the battery case if one is installed (see note below).
- You should expect max. 86 minutes continuous recording using a fully charged LIPO and 4 fully charged 800mAh AAA cells.
- I would have expected much, much longer recording times. My only explanation is that NiMH cells on their own cannot provide sufficient voltage. 2 or more cell LIPOs, with the appropriate voltage regulation, would certainly be much more efficient.
- For short recordings or when using a 4GB card the use of AAA rechargeables is a possible solution. For longer recordings, the use of AAA rechargeables is not the way to go.

Note: If you want to keep the reverse polarity protection It *may* be possible to use a 1N5817 Schottky diode in place of the common silicon diode. The 1N5817 will only have a voltage drop of 0.25V at 5V and 150mA. I have not tested this and I do not plan to test this in the future. A fuse connected in series and a diode connected in parallel and reversed after the fuse would also be a solution. There would be no voltage drop, and the fuse would blow if the batteries were inserted the wrong way round. Of course, there are many other, more complicated methods of obtaining the reverse protection.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:27 PM
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Update. Seems to be working well at 10v to the lighter plug. I can easily open the cig lighter plug and solder a couple of fly leads out, put male and female bullet connectors on the ends and connect to any of my 1000 mA 3 s lipos that way. It will slip in a pocket quite nicely and (for paragliding etc) allow maybe 3 hours recording at 300 mA's?
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobflyman View Post
I ordered a wide angle lense from Deal Extreme 16 days ago and it hasn't shown up. They suggest contacting them after 14 days, which I've done, but they haven't got back to me. I've ordered from them before and never had any problems. Has anyone else had probs?

Plus, re external powering up. I'm just experimenting with powering the cig lighter with 10 v from an adjustable power supply to see if the camera will continuously record powered at that voltage. My idea is to power from a 3s lipo which is 11v ish. Not a lot of use for model flying, but for hand videoing it would be possible to have the lipo power supply in a pocket and just have a trailing lead to the mini dv.
That should work, but there would be no LVC to protect the lipo cells from over discharge! It would be a way to use old and tired flight lipos that just can't deliver the amps needed for flying, but would be very adequate for the 300 mA or so needed to power the camera if the cells still retain fairly high cell voltage. I have a bunch like that I use for testing of controls, etc. during builds. But a better way would be to use the BEC on an ESC so the LVC function protects the lipos, and just connect the BEC output directly to the camera USB port. A really tiny, cheap ESC could be used for this.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I have performed some further tests and can now record max. 87 minutes with 4 800mAh AAA external NiMH batteries or 98 minutes with 4 1000mAh AAA external NiMH batteries.
These results are better than my previous results because I removed the reverse protection diode 1N4001 in the external battery case.
87 minutes is still a long way from Tom's 113 minutes with 800mAh AAA batteries.
All testing was done using a data rate of 7 Mb/s by first taking a photo.
...
I'll repeat my test today just to see if I was dreaming the last time!
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 02:42 PM
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Yes, thanks Tom, good point about running down the Lipos beyond a sensible level.
I just measured the current. Cig lighter plugged in, but camera off. 65 mA. Camera on standby. 80mA. Camera on and recording 100 mA . All at around input voltage 8.8v. At that rate there would be many hours recording, but as you say, I'd have to watch the voltage level. Alternatively, I could make up a small NiCad pack with a similar voltage and not have to worry.

Much easier for me than trying to pull one of those mini usb 's apart. (I did have a bit of a go just now. Not easy!)

edit: Sorry I was having a grey moment, my lipos are 2s, more like 8.2 v ! A 3 s would be at least 12v.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 04:33 PM
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New High-Power Freeware Editor

I just found this link in a different thread about an editor that has been move from commercial status to open source.... i.e free! It looks very powerful. Not sure how user friendly it is for some of the simpler editing tasks that might be desired, but I'm waiting for registration confirmation so I can download it and give it a try. Looks to have capability as good as the commercial editors that have been in use. We'll see...

Information and registration/download here.

<EDIT>After trying to use this, I'd say don't bother. It may be powerful, but it does not support H.264 codec, and I even had it choke on an MJPEG codec .AVI file from a #3 808 camera. The only video I could get it to accept was an .AVI file with MJPEG codec from my old STLabs 5in1 camera! It apparently can OUTPUT in HD using it's own proprietary codecs, but the editing interface is atrocious by my standards... very disassociated and segmented. Never even tried to edit the video I did get loaded. Worst user interface possible! I have uninstalled the whole mess!
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I just found this link in a different thread about an editor that has been move from commercial status to open source.... i.e free! It looks very powerful. Not sure how user friendly it is for some of the simpler editing tasks that might be desired, but I'm waiting for registration confirmation so I can download it and give it a try. Looks to have capability as good as the commercial editors that have been in use. We'll see...

Information and registration/download here.
Seems like we have overloaded their system as I can't get on to the registration page..
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 05:47 PM
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Good Timing Tom,

I just dropped $60 on Amazon for the MAGIX one you are using, btw i was concerned (based on some reviews of it) about the time needed to render edited files .. it was fine on a 15 min test clip and the work flow seems as logical as Pinnacle Studio and pretty fast, Some specific things, like searching for content files and Posting to YouYube were much easier to use.. Has a lot buried under the hood tho.. Do you find you use the Book or Forums of their Support at all? is it helpful when needed?? Please let us know if it's worth taking a look at this open source alternative too. Regards.. JimS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I just found this link in a different thread about an editor that has been move from commercial status to open source......
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobC(UK) View Post
Only that it dispenses anti-depressants.
That's not a good sign! Talk about customer dissatisfaction issues, wow!

Rick NR417
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 07:45 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Thanks for confirming your test results. I was thinking of doing something similar using the BEC circuit on an old ESC I have that gave up the ghost on the motor power side, assuming the LVC function is still working. But I was considering using a small 2 cell lipo for power instead of the tapping the 2S pin on the 3S flight lipo. Either way works, but I was just wanting to avoid the imbalance in the flight pack cells during discharge.

The camera should be drawing about 300 mA while recording, so a 15 min. flight would consume about 75 mAH from two cells... probably not a big deal on a larger flight lipo, but might be worth bumping up the the LVC a tick if your ESC has that ability until you can check to see how the cell balance turns out on your smallest flight lipo. Pulling the voltage too low on the two cells powering the camera during a flight with a smaller capacity flight lipo is the only down possible down side I can see with doing this, and the risk is probably minimal, but worth checking.
Yeah that's the part that really bugs me... I guess since the flight pack is considerably higher capacity (almost double) than the FPV system pack, it'll have to be that one to serve the power for the UBEC rig. Question - will the higher voltage cell impart any charging effect to the lower voltage cells? I always use a lipo low voltage alarm on my flight packs, and this will be no exception. I'm hoping that the only consequence will be that two of the cells reach their low voltages sooner, and it won't cause any kind of potentially damaging issues to the pack.

All this aside, I can't wait to try it out. I'm working on that test video now, hope to have it up within a couple of hours! :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Good Timing Tom,

I just dropped $60 on Amazon for the MAGIX one you are using, btw i was concerned (based on some reviews of it) about the time needed to render edited files .. it was fine on a 15 min test clip and the work flow seems as logical as Pinnacle Studio and pretty fast, Some specific things, like searching for content files and Posting to YouYube were much easier to use.. Has a lot buried under the hood tho.. Do you find you use the Book or Forums of their Support at all? is it helpful when needed?? Please let us know if it's worth taking a look at this open source alternative too. Regards.. JimS
You made the right choice!

I just fired up that new LightWorks editor, and I got frustrated from the get go. It was a commercial product designed only to work with some professional hardware of some sort. I had to separately download the only codec pack it can work with. Looks like it still has it's upbringing drapped all over it... with alot of trimmings geared to film, tape, DVD, etc. pro media. It's got H.264 support, but I first open a new project, load in a #11 .mov file, and am immediately greeted with "codec not supported". When I downloaded the codecs there was a .pdf on how to use them. I read it, but see no way to do anything to change how they are used.

I'm going to re-read the codec info to see if I missed some key toggle. Didn't even get a chance to see how the editor works, what effects are available,etc. If I can't break the log jam shortly, this will all be uninstalled before before bedtime!

As for the MAGIX editor, you're right that there is a ton of stuff under the hood. I am just starting to learn/tap some of its power with the mask editing to get rid of the #11 vignetting. So far I have managed to do what I want by trial/error and reading the built in help info, but everyone is different when it comes to this.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Yeah that's the part that really bugs me... I guess since the flight pack is considerably higher capacity (almost double) than the FPV system pack, it'll have to be that one to serve the power for the UBEC rig. Question - will the higher voltage cell impart any charging effect to the lower voltage cells? I always use a lipo low voltage alarm on my flight packs, and this will be no exception. I'm hoping that the only consequence will be that two of the cells reach their low voltages sooner, and it won't cause any kind of potentially damaging issues to the pack.

All this aside, I can't wait to try it out. I'm working on that test video now, hope to have it up within a couple of hours! :-)

Rick NR417
Cells in series will not charge each other. Cells in parallel will, and reach an average equilibrium voltage. The normal LVC on an ESC just looks at the total pack voltage, which is just the sum of each cells voltage. So you could have the two cells powering the camera drop under 3V with the third cell above 3V, and maybe not trigger an LVC set at 3V. If your on-board lipo alarm monitors each cell voltage separately, it would detect this. It if just monitors the total pack voltage, it will not.
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 08:59 PM
Just thumbing through...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Yep, that's the "problem". The H.264 codec taxes my W7 (64 bit) Dell PC with quad core CPU running over 50% faster with 12GB of ram, even with some tasks off-loaded to the GPU on my higher end video card! Your PC and OS are at least three generations out of date by now.
FWIW, I believe there's more to playing HD video than raw CPU processing power. My Dell Win XP plays fine, only 2gb RAM, but I do have an accelerated graphics card and have clicked the "use hardware acceleration" option

I can also play them on my tiny netbook with the weakling Intel Atom, but using Arcsoft Media Impression player (it's included with the editor that comes with Kodak ZxD)

Here's the Crossing the Bridge sample - plays without hesitation
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 09:28 PM
Hovership
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USB Cable

I just got one of these in the mail so I could attempt to reuse the plug for soldering lipo leads onto.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013URK04

I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the package and saw the housing around the plug was just 2 pieces snapped together. It only took a quick pry with a small screwdriver to get it open.

NEVERMIND - This isn't mini USB - OOPS!
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 10:42 PM
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Tom,
good to hear it, but I hope LightWorks succeeds too.. it would be really great to have a powerful open source video editor you could count on too.. Thank you and others here leading the way on exploiting so much of this new tech stuff..

Got a question.. I'm staring at a RED LED ..cause I am afraid to simply unload the videos off it while I know the battery is so low..

Q: when you are AMBER and talking to the camera's folders to read the .mov data is there risk of losing it if you didn't recharge the No.11 keycam 1st and right away? .. or can i simply suck the video off then charge it back up later with no risk like I did the old 808 No 3's?

Q2: do you use the My PRESETS in MAGIX for anything?

Q3 did you get this same color scheme shift error?
Regards, JimS

P.S i got the Date OFF cont rec patch installed .. no prob Thank You very much..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
You made the right choice!
...
I just fired up that new LightWorks editor, and I got frustrated from the get go.
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Last edited by jims123; Mar 25, 2011 at 12:06 AM.
Old Mar 24, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
I have performed some further tests and can now record max. 87 minutes with 4 800mAh AAA external NiMH batteries or 98 minutes with 4 1000mAh AAA external NiMH batteries.
These results are better than my previous results because I removed the reverse protection diode 1N4001 in the external battery case.
87 minutes is still a long way from Tom's 113 minutes with 800mAh AAA batteries.
All testing was done using a data rate of 7 Mb/s by first taking a photo.
Isoprop,

I repeated my test, with the one difference... I have my new replacement internal lipo installed. You are not going to like my results!

With fully charged lipo and 4 cell AAA Eneloop 800 mAH pack:
  • Starting pack voltage 30 min. off of charger = 5.76V. Recorded until 4GB card filled up. 76 min. 36 secs of video at 7065 kbps total data rate.
  • Removed card, wiped it in my PC, replaced card. Resting voltage on pack = 5.13V. Started new recording. Stopped manually about 60 min. later thinking battery would be depleted. Yellow LED lit, so still power left! Restarted recording again.
  • Checked camera about 20 min. later. Both recordings had filled the card a second time... 76 min 37 sec. of recording! Resting voltage on pack 4.91V.
  • I did not continue the test because I had left my camera plugged in while checking the flash card (still in the camera). The charge light went out after maybe 10 min or so, so there was likely still a little recording time left... probably mostly from the lipo.
  • Verifiable total recording time of 153 min. 3 sec. Recharging the extermal pack only put back in 777 mAh... less than my first test which was over 800 mAH. So, I'm sure I could get a little more if I tried, but I already got enough to fill a flash card twice the size (maybe.. see comment below).
So why the difference? My first test had a sick lipo for sure, since it failed rapidly shortly after my test. It hard to believe my camera could be drawing that much less current, but it is different from yours in that I can't toggle the bit rate on mine. Your commercial battery holder has (had) a protection diode which hurt, but your second test eliminated that. Is there any other circuitry in there? I am also driving a bright LED the whole time of the test. Maybe your internal lipo is weak (I get about 43 min. of recording with my new lipo by itself).

I didn't try to measure amp draw since recording time is all I was looking for, but the additional time I got with a new lipo surprised me, as does how much more recording I get with the same AAA batteries. Maybe your larger flash card (larger power draw?) is a factor, too?
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Old Mar 24, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Tow Attempt No 1- FAIL

Vic,
tried my 3 foot tow Jig today .. but since it's wingless and my vehicle is 1/10th the speed (it's a RC sailboat).. it bowed far too much under the weight and pointed up at about a 60 degree angle instead of straight ahead (or better yet .. down at 45 degrees as i had hoped.. .. Next I'm going to try a small diameter CF tube instead of this fiberglass rod I had used today..

2011-03-24CAM Tow Jig FAIL 1 (0 min 32 sec)


If at 1st you don't succeed..
P.S perhaps it was cause there were no Turkeys around for good Luck!.
JimS

Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Thats quite stable. I tried a carbon rod tow line, works ok

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3458
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Last edited by jims123; Mar 24, 2011 at 11:17 PM.
Old Mar 25, 2011, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
FWIW, I believe there's more to playing HD video than raw CPU processing power. My Dell Win XP plays fine, only 2gb RAM, but I do have an accelerated graphics card and have clicked the "use hardware acceleration" option

I can also play them on my tiny netbook with the weakling Intel Atom, but using Arcsoft Media Impression player (it's included with the editor that comes with Kodak ZxD)

Here's the Crossing the Bridge sample - plays without hesitation
I agree... a higher end video card with it's GPU can help a bunch. And that little ATOM CPU in your net book, though small and low power, is a hyperthreading CPU, so can do parallel processing. I don't think the old Pentium 4 PC that was mentioned having the problems has anything like this going for it.

And editing this HD content vs playing the video is another ballgame as you know.
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Old Mar 25, 2011, 12:39 AM
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Comments inserted in red below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tom,
good to hear it, but I hope LightWorks succeeds too.. it would be really great to have a powerful open source video editor you could count on too.. Thank you and others here leading the way on exploiting so much of this new tech stuff..

I still haven't finished with it... need to get a simple MJPEG video into to look around some more, and figure out whay it doesn't edit H.264 codecs. Maybe I misread is capabilities, but with out that it's not much of an attraction to me.

Got a question.. I'm staring at a RED LED ..cause I am afraid to simply unload the videos off it while I know the battery is so low..

Q: when you are AMBER and talking to the camera's folders to read the .mov data is there risk of losing it if you didn't recharge the No.11 keycam 1st and right away? .. or can i simply suck the video off then charge it back up later with no risk like I did the old 808 No 3's?

If you are plugged into your PC USB port, that will power the camera just fine, AND charge your battery. You can access the flash card, move files, etc.... no problem.

Q2: do you use the My PRESETS in MAGIX for anything?

Until last night I didn't. But when I started to use the color editing tools with a mask to fix the vignetting, I have 5-6 different toggles set, and I found I can save those as a preset, and recall them all with the click of a mouse!

Q3 did you get this same color scheme shift error?

Yes, but just click the box to not show it again. All it does is turn off the fancy "Aero" display that shows translucent window frames and stuff like that. It just uses up PC resources that are better spent editing your video. As soon as you exit the program, AERO will be automatically restored. Or, you can switch it off permanently if you want.

Regards, JimS

P.S i got the Date OFF cont rec patch installed .. no prob Thank You very much..
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Old Mar 25, 2011, 12:42 AM
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rgr all, thanks Tom..

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Old Mar 25, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The charge time is about one hour... depends on how far down you run the battery, of course! But the good thing is the LED indicator works like it should when connected to a standard USB plug charger or the computers USB port... the red LED stays lit to show the battery is charging, and then goes out when it is charged. HOWEVER, this is NOT the case with the car charger cable that comes with it. It will NOT light the red LED at all, but it WILL charge the battery AND also allow the camera to go into the video record mode while it is charging, i.e. the car charger power supply is in series with the camera's internal battery for unlimited recording time, up to the capacity of your flash card. It does this by supplying +5V on pin #4 of it's USB plug instead of the normal pin#1, according to our thread circuit sleuths!

A normal generic charger WILL charge the battery but will not allow the camera to toggle into the record mode while it's connected. BUT, if you start a recording with the camera's internal battery power FIRST, and THEN connect the camera to the generic charger, it WILL continue to power the camera until the recording process is stopped. If the camera stops recording momentarily due to the 20 min. stop/save/continue recording function, it will NOT resume recording if using a generic USB power supply. The special USB power plug as described above is needed for recording to resume. BUt if you have flashed in the continuous recording firmware, this procedure using a generic USB power supply will power the camera until the flash memory card is full.

Hi Tom.. I'm new here. Not an rc enthusiast, but been following all the great info in this thread.



You say above (and in the FAQs) that it should be possible using a regular non-modified USB cable to record uninterrupted using the continuous firmware (provided one starts recording prior to plugging in the external source).

So, my question is, is there any advantage to using the special cable besides eliminating the need to start recording before plugging in external power and not illuminating the LED?

Also, I've been told that the stock lipo battery actually measures 3.7-4.1 V (compared with the 5 V input voltage requirement via USB). Is this correct? I understand it is in case of the older #3 808 cams?

Thank much.
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Last edited by drzen; Mar 25, 2011 at 12:50 AM. Reason: clarity
Old Mar 25, 2011, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drzen View Post
...
You say above (and in the FAQs) that it should be possible using a regular non-modified USB cable to record uninterrupted using the continuous firmware (provided one starts recording prior to plugging in the external source).

So, my question is, is there any advantage to using the special cable besides eliminating the need to start recording before plugging in external power and not illuminating the LED?

This is answered with more info you might want to know in the FAQs in Post #3 (See the charging link in the Basic Camera Function paragraph). But in brief, the continuous recording will actually stop and save the file when it hits the 4GB limit of the FAT file system. The special cable is needed to allow the camera to automatically start recording again after that stop/save occurs. It will then record up to another 4GB clip, and repeat until you run out of power or your flash card fills up. With a standard cable you will just get the first 4GB clip, then the recording will stop and leave the camera in charge mode.

Also, I've been told that the stock lipo battery actually measures 3.7-4.1 V (compared with the 5 V input voltage requirement via USB). Is this correct? I understand it is in case of the older #3 808 cams?
Yes, the internal battery is a lithium polymer cell, which can be charged up to 4.2V. The 5V USB port will reduce the voltage down to power the camera and charge the battery without damaging anything.

Thank much.
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Old Mar 25, 2011, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
FWIW, I believe there's more to playing HD video than raw CPU processing power. My Dell Win XP plays fine, only 2gb RAM, but I do have an accelerated graphics card and have clicked the "use hardware acceleration" option
To be honest the video card only plays a small part. As long as it has the ability to frame buffer the overlay from the player and has good DMA, it's grand.

What is more important is a clean, efficient data flow rate from disc through decode to the video card memory aperture.

On Linux a GoPro 1080p 30fps or 720p 60fps video only uses roughly 80% of one core. Requires a constant and smooth 2-3Mb per second disc read.

My XP doesn't do so well and the slightest interuption from other software and it's jittering, dropping frames.

It has a lot to do with how windows process scheduling and IO scheduling works... or rather doesn't work. It's vastly less efficient and inferior to Linux.
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Old Mar 25, 2011, 05:38 AM
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Thanks for the answers, Tom. I don't need to record more than an hour continuously at a time, so for my purposes, the standard USB cable will do the job with the continuous recording firmware.
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Old Mar 25, 2011, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Vic,
tried my 3 foot tow Jig today .. but since it's wingless and my vehicle is 1/10th the speed (it's a RC sailboat).. it bowed far too much under the weight and pointed up at about a 60 degree angle instead of straight ahead (or better yet .. down at 45 degrees as i had hoped.. .. Next I'm going to try a small diameter CF tube instead of this fiberglass rod I had used today..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2Y9V0LoPzY

If at 1st you don't succeed..
P.S perhaps it was cause there were no Turkeys around for good Luck!.
JimS
Jim, I don't know if you are using the paper clip to hold the cam, but if so it looks heavy. My version 2 drone is a little piece of 6mm depron, and the cam is held on with velcro. That helps minimize sag, but the speed is what does the rest. You can see how much the line sags when I setup on the grass in the beginning.

But beware of the bass - they might jump out of the water and grab it!!
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