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Old Feb 22, 2011, 05:16 AM
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Thanks for the info on SD Formatter Tom, that was completely new to me. I'll give it a try, and I agree it's always good to know you are using the best possible configuration.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 06:10 AM
Fidler & twidler
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Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
My supplier, Apple, has agreed to send me a replacement cam at a reduced rate.
She thinks the racing speed (the date is advanced by 1 minute every 10 seconds) is due to hardware malfunction. Since the video is perfect, I have difficulty in believing that the problem is due to hardware. I will investigate this furtherů

Doing more testing, I found a true hardware design problem.
I noticed that sometimes my camera would turn off when I short-pressed the power button instead of going to photo or video mode. This was erratic. Sometimes it happened on the second press, sometimes on the 20th. I also noticed that if I carefully "levered" the USB plug the symptoms were not the same. I also discovered that there was a difference if I pressed the pointed end of the power switch or the fat end. In any case, operation was erratic.
I also discovered that I could not bring the camera into Web Cam mode.

On the underside of the board there is a resistor that is placed very near to the power switch. Under the magnifying glass it appeared to be touching the metal body of the switch. The metal body also moves very slightly if poked with a tooth pick. The placement of this resistor is far from ideal.

It was obvious that the resistor was not meant to touch the metal body of the switch, so, after removing the battery, I carefully unsoldered the 4 metal tags and moved the switch about 2mm nearer to the function switch. I should have kept the switch a bit closer to the resistor because there is no longer a distinct "click" when I press on the narrow end of the plastic cover of the power switch - or maybe I mounted the switch back-to front...

However, since re-aligning the switch, I can switch between video and photo mode without any problem. Web Cam mode also works perfectly.
This rework is not possible if you do not have SMD soldering skills. You must not let the switch get hot because there is a conductive rubber inside. This will melt if it gets too hot. To desolder, I used a tiny piece of Chip Quik and lots of flux on each tag. This kept the temperature of the molten solder low. Solder wick sucked up the mess.

Unfortunately, I did not take a picture prior to the rework, but here are two pictures after the rework. As you may notice, I didn't manage to align the switch dead straight (only visible on the zoomed picture) - I'm just not so good with SMD soldering!
Nice bit of investigation - made easier by "Apple" letting you have a low cost replacement so you were not too worried about fixing the old one .
Did it fix the Time Warp problem?
Mike
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by airmob View Post
Interesting post. Has it affected your runaway clock?

As many don't have SMD soldering skills (myself included), would it have been possible to slip some thin plastic between the resistor and the switch rather than move the switch?
Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
Nice bit of investigation - made easier by "Apple" letting you have a low cost replacement so you were not too worried about fixing the old one .
Did it fix the Time Warp problem?
Mike
Most probably I should have tried inserting some thin plastic first. I tried "lifting" the metal frame gently with a small screwdriver, but that didn't work. The gap was no larger than the thickness of a thin piece of paper. I guess this would be a possibility, but the plastic would have to be very thin indeed. On the pictures, everything looks quite large, but in reality, everything is tiny. I am incapable of moving the resistor - it is just too small.

After the rework, my runaway clock was, amazingly, back to normal - but it didn't stay normal for very long.

I now suspect that it has something to do with the external power supply, so I'm following up on this. Unfortunately, this is very time consuming. Once in "Runaway mode" (I like that expression), I can get it back to normal by disconnecting the internal battery or running the battery truly flat. I hope to do some more tests with the emergency battery tomorrow.

I had to make an offer to "Apple". Her first offer was not acceptable, so I used a price that was mentioned previously in this forum. Considering all the time that I have already invested in this camera, she should give it to me for free! But the camera is truly amazing for it's size. I just wish the Quality Control was better.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 10:30 AM
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Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
After the rework, my runaway clock was, amazingly, back to normal - but it didn't stay normal for very long....
That is definitely -ing
best of luck. (thinks - how can a carry skip a BCD stage (H/W), or digit(S/W) - grief ).
MIKE
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 11:19 AM
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Possible Dead Camera?

Hey everyone,

Got a weird one here.. My 808HD #11 has been working fine since I got it despite initial weirdness with the flash procedure and the fact that I have been testing it as an NIR+visible light camera. The only problem I ever had with it is it failed one time to record and today when I took it flying it corrupted a file, but I was able to save it.

Here's the problem I'm having right now... I took it flying this morning in foggy conditions, and it saved two files worth of recording. On the last file, you can hear a sort of bzzzt bzzt... bzzzt bzzzt over the audio, which I think is probably the low battery effect I've read about here in the forum. It made it to a filesize of 663MB, and the electronic sounding buzzing gradually became louder and louder. The file appears to terminate normally, and is perfectly playable, it's just a little short. After that, I find two 1kb files on the card, both .mov files, both unplayable and both generate an error if I try to convert them.

The camera appears to be totally dead. I plugged it into the USB port of my desktop machine to charge it, and after a few minutes I tried to turn it on. Nothing, not even a flicker of the yellow light. I tried again every few minutes or so, with the same result. Eventually, the red charging light went out, and still I get no response at all from the camera, plugged into the USB port or not. I can read the memory card just fine in an external card reader, but placing neither of my two memory cards into the camera makes any difference with trying to turn it on. I also tried the reset switch on the camera, and same result... it acts like it's completely dead other than the red charging light which comes on again for a short time if I unplug and plug it back into the USB port. I measured the voltage of the camera's internal battery and I get exactly 4.2VDC.

I haven't tried to do any kind of a firmware patch procedure yet (as a last ditch effort) but I can't see why that would affect it anyway. Can't hurt to try, I suppose. Aside of that, I'm fast running out of ideas. The board doesn't appear to have any moisture on it either, but I will try warming it with a hair dryer just to be sure.

Anyone have any ideas to share? I'd hate to think it's actually dead, just when I was developing a truly unhealthy love affair with it!

Thanks for any help!

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Ok now even weirder... I took the camera all apart and was looking the board over, and I pushed just a little up on the USB connector, and tried again to power it up. To my surprise, the yellow light came on, and then began to blink about one per second. I didn't have a memory card in it, so maybe it took to working again just long enough to give me some kind of a warning about that. Now it's unresponsive again, but I'm going to put a memory card in it and try to repeat the experiment. Will update if I find out anything.

Edit: Ok, now I'm a little dumbfounded... It appears that to turn the camera on, I have to click the power switch twice in rapid succession. I think that's really cool because it makes it less likely to "bump" the camera on... but I don't recall it acting like this before. Strange. I like it so long as it holds out and doesn't fail outright or start requiring lots of hammering on the switch to make it work. Is this normal behavior and why didn't I notice it before??

Rick NR417
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Last edited by NightRunner417; Feb 22, 2011 at 11:41 AM. Reason: New info
Old Feb 22, 2011, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Hey everyone,

The camera appears to be totally dead....
...I measured the voltage of the camera's internal battery and I get exactly 4.2VDC.

Anyone have any ideas to share? I'd hate to think it's actually dead, just when I was developing a truly unhealthy love affair with it!

Rick NR417
Just a shot in the dark, but if you are at the battery, is it possible to disconnect it for about 5 minutes? Or maybe discharge it with a 1K Ohm resistor (might take a while) if you don't want to disconnect it - not sure if that's a good idea, but if you don't have any options left...

Lots of buttons-holding-down may help as well. Is your power-on switch situated well away from that resistor? - see my post a few messages back here - sounds all very familiar, especially when you push the USB...

Big pain I know.

Good luck
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Last edited by Isoprop; Feb 22, 2011 at 11:45 AM.
Old Feb 22, 2011, 12:01 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
Just a shot in the dark, but if you are at the battery, is it possible to disconnect it for about 5 minutes? Or maybe discharge it with a 1K Ohm resistor (might take a while) if you don't want to disconnect it - not sure if that's a good idea, but if you don't have any options left...

Lots of buttons-holding-down may help as well. Is your power-on switch situated well away from that resistor? - see my post a few messages back here - sounds all very familiar, especially when you push the USB...

Big pain I know.

Good luck
Hi Isoprop,

That's what I originally was thinking of when I started pushing on things was your post about the resistor and switch. Actually, I think the camera is ok, because it works fine now, but I am really confused about the whole power switch thing. In order to turn it on, I have to click-click the power switch, and I just don't remember ever having to do it that way before. It could also be that all this time, me with my usual extreme impatience for things, I've been hammering the switch and thus giving it the double click it has always needed in order to turn on. Heck if I know, haha... I feel kind of stupid now. Oh well, I'm just glad it works. Now if it just KEEPS working and I can do something about that painfully short battery lifespan...

Thanks for trying to help! If I have more trouble with it I'll post about it.

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 12:36 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Hi Isoprop,

That's what I originally was thinking of when I started pushing on things was your post about the resistor and switch. Actually, I think the camera is ok, because it works fine now, but I am really confused about the whole power switch thing. In order to turn it on, I have to click-click the power switch, and I just don't remember ever having to do it that way before. It could also be that all this time, me with my usual extreme impatience for things, I've been hammering the switch and thus giving it the double click it has always needed in order to turn on. Heck if I know, haha... I feel kind of stupid now. Oh well, I'm just glad it works. Now if it just KEEPS working and I can do something about that painfully short battery lifespan...

Thanks for trying to help! If I have more trouble with it I'll post about it.

Rick NR417
My first thought was that the small foil button switch is intermittant, but if it works with two clicks of the button, every time, I'm not so sure now. It almost sounds like the camera is "stuck" in an abnormal state, e.g. boots up in the "photo" mode rather than "video" mode, so it takes the extra click to toggle it back.

I have a different HD camera that would occasionally become inoperative when toggling through menus/options, and it appeared to be bricked. But removing the battery to completely remove all power to the circuit board, then re-inserting, it would boot up and work normally again. I'd try the suggested battery disconnect idea.

Does the camera do anything after just one click of the power button when you click the "start/stop" button (check the flash card to be sure).
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Does the camera do anything after just one click of the power button when you click the "start/stop" button (check the flash card to be sure).
Following on from what Tom says, you may have to wait about 2 seconds after a single quick press of the power button. At least, that is the case with mine, with a 32GB card. I don't know if the size/speed of the card makes a difference though. Maybe you are just being too impatient
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Hello. I purchased that keychain 11 from internet-shop ebay member.
I have that questions:

It will work with 32 GB SanDisk micro sd card class 4?
How much i can record if i have 32 gb micro sd card?
I will receive it in package box?
How when i receive it , i can remove date and time?
And how i can charge it when i dont have a car?

Thank you .
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Last edited by denoo9; Feb 22, 2011 at 03:27 PM.
Old Feb 22, 2011, 03:26 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Hello. I purchased that keychain 11 from internet-shop ebay member.
I have that questions:

It will work with 32 GB SanDisk micro sd card class 4?
How much i can record if i have 32 gb micro sd card?
I will receive it in package box?
How when i receive it , i can remove date and time?

Thank you .
You're first two questions are answered in your seller's eBay web page (you did read it first, didn't you?) answers: yes;10 hours

It will probably come in an envelope wrapped in plastic bubble-wrap.

Read the FAQ's on post #3 (as the thread title says). There's a link there to the date removal procedure.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 03:35 PM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
And how i can charge it when i dont have a car?
Charges using supplied USB lead.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 03:41 PM
HBZ Champ Bush Edition + DX6i
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Espoo, Finland
Joined Jan 2011
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@NightRunner417

Not sure if your problems are related to this, but mine has corrupted the SD card few times (I usually run the cam until it drains), and at some point I noticed that I had problems turning it on, and other weird behavior (like stopping recording by itself).

Then tried running a check on the Disc Utility tool in OSX, and it found the card is corrupted. Then I simply asked it to fix it, and there went the problems. Now I always run the check (takes a couple of seconds in OSX) if I've run the camera until the battery died, and have seen the corruption happening few times.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Springfield, VA USA
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jesolins - How did you clean the lens?

Tom Frank - One of my 4 low res 808 cameras drops frames. I traded memory and established that it was something wrong with that camera and not memory or PC speed. I treat it as potential spare parts. Speaking of which...

Isoprop - Having just bricked a HD 808, its SPI flashchip is "Winbond 25Q16BVS1G D945." Having cut the battery off that bricked HD, your post about removing power from a camera to see if that will reset its scrambled brains sounds interesting. I could reattach its battery to see if that would bring it back to life. I do not subscribe to its memory card being corrupted since I traded memory between the cameras to see if any of the cards would help the low res 808 with frame drops.

Vendor hxelepro sold me another camera at a less than great discount, but did agree to check its focus and remove its date/time stamp before shipping, so I agreed to the replacement camera price.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 08:06 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-64 D View Post
...
Tom Frank - One of my 4 low res 808 cameras drops frames. I traded memory and established that it was something wrong with that camera and not memory or PC speed. I treat it as potential spare parts.
...
You have some old 808's that DON'T drop frames? I recall that ALL of the old 808 cameras dropped frames... anywhere from a few % on the better #3 cameras to over 30% on some of the less capable versions. The video processors on those cameras just aren't fast enough to capture and compress the frames AND write to the flash card at 30 fps before the next frame is ready for processing. So a faster card on those can help, and a slow one can really hurt, but frames will still be dropped, unless one of the newer and faster cards (CL10?) can eliminate the problem altogether. I've stopped following that thread closely.

The HD key cam has a much more capable video processor, so I haven't seen any evidence of what the lowest class of card can be used and still drop no frames. The vendors recommend at least CL 4, but the cards vary so much in their actual random write speeds, that I don't put any faith in the Class designations as an indicator of performance anymore.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 08:08 PM
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United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
14,263 Posts
AH,
I opened the case and loosened the main board so I had axcess to the lens and carefully rubbed it with a lens tissue that was moistened with some lens cleaning fluid.
Cheers,
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-64 D View Post
jesolins - How did you clean the lens?

...
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 08:27 PM
Just thumbing through...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I recall that ALL of the old 808 cameras dropped frames
The #7 808SD can be configured to 20FPS, at which it drops no frames. That's the only way I know of.

I'm still somewhat confused by both class and benchmark results. Seems some cards work well despite low class or benchmark. The HD808 or other cams with good processors seem to make do with less card performance.
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 09:23 PM
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Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,192 Posts
Hey Guys,

Here's the latest air sickness test from the indoor arena. I taped a set of sunglasses in front of the rear view cam to see if I could tone down the brightness of the arena. I think they're polarized.

The result was a softer view and more grain in the footage. Although if I was outdoors in the constant bright light the grain wouldn't be as bad. I think.

Anyway I was just goofing around today with the cams. I did get to meet Ken (dz1sfb) at the arena today and he played one of my raw vids on his laptop for all to see. Cool stuff...

He has a bipe that he was shooting footage with. Nice plane, I bet he got some great shots.

Here's the latest. Converted in MP4cam2AVI, edited in WMM, and uploaded to YouTube. I converted about 40 minutes of video in about 3 minutes !!


Skymasters Super Fob O Rama HD (9 min 25 sec)





Joe
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Old Feb 22, 2011, 10:55 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
The #7 808SD can be configured to 20FPS, at which it drops no frames. That's the only way I know of.

I'm still somewhat confused by both class and benchmark results. Seems some cards work well despite low class or benchmark. The HD808 or other cams with good processors seem to make do with less card performance.
20 fps... that's cheating!

Yes, it makes sense that a faster processor can get by with a lesser speed card... they can capture and crunch each frame faster, so they have more time to write the frame data to the card before the next frame cycle every 1/30 of a sec.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 12:49 AM
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Hi,

Anyone knows the difference between MP4cam2AVI and AnyVideoConverter?

My computer failed to start the MP4cam2AVI because LIBMAD.DLL component was not found. I wonder why.

The AnyVideoConverter on the other hand works fine.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 12:53 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
435 Posts
Got one of the HD fobs MIGHTY impressed. (I did not know about this thread just found it on ebay I have an addiction to micro cams for my planes and rockets :-) especially HD.

anyway I tried the remove date firmware and it killed my cam. Grrr

Hoping I can get it replaced (fingers crossed) completely non responsive now (just red light comes on if I charge it otherwise nothing)

anway if I order from a vendor on P2 I will get one compatible with the date removal firmware?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 03:08 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Hello.
I have one question:

How i can remove date and time?
Everybody says it killed their cam! I dont want loose it..
So how?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 03:57 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Hello.
I have one question:

How i can remove date and time?
Everybody says it killed their cam! I dont want loose it..
So how?
Please read the FAQ at post 3.

Removing the date and time didn't kill my cam.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:05 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
if I order from a vendor on P2 I will get one compatible with the date removal firmware?
Did you not order yours from one of those sellers?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:19 AM
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I heard somewhere , it can be remove like that?


2009/01/03 21:32:07 N (timestamp off)

and save as time.txt?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:23 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I heard somewhere , it can be remove like that?


2009/01/03 21:32:07 N (timestamp off)

and save as time.txt?
No that's instructions for an older non-HD model, which will not work on the new HD cam.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Hello.
I have one question:

How i can remove date and time?
Everybody says it killed their cam! I dont want loose it..
So how?
Tom has put an excellent index on page 3 where you will find the exact instructions.

There are a couple of methods.
What is very important is to make sure that your camera is fully charged before attempting the update.

I believe it is much safer to use a card reader than to attach the camera to the PC. In fact, my advice is to always use a card reader to update the firmware.

Tom's instructions are really good, but if you are uncertain, then I recommend using the instructions below. You will need an external card reader to do this. These instructions can't eliminate the risk 100% though.

1. Fully charge the camera (about an hour, until the red light is extinguished)
2. Ensure that the camera is disconnected from the PC and no lights are lit
3. Disconnect your external reader from the PC if it is connected
4. Insert the card into the external reader
5 Connected the card reader directly to the PC (do not use a USB hub)
6. Format you card
7. Copy the file "FW96630A.bin" from the "no time" folder to the empty card
8. "Safely remove" your card reader from the PC (button found at the bottom right of the desktop - you might have to expand the alerts)
9. Disconnect the card reader
10. Remove the card from the card reader
11. Insert the card into the camera
12. Short press the power button (the larger one is the power button), once and once only
13. WAIT at least 10 seconds until the yellow light STAYS LIT.
14. Long-press the power button to turn off the camera
15. Remove the card from the camera and put the card into the card reader
16. Connect the card reader to the PC
17. Format the card or simply delete the file "FW96630A.bin" from the card
18. "Safely remove" your card reader from the PC
19. Remove the card from the card reader
20. Insert the card into the camera
21. Short press the power button. After max. 2 seconds, the yellow light should turn on.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I heard somewhere , it can be remove like that?


2009/01/03 21:32:07 N (timestamp off)

and save as time.txt?
As airmob pointed out, this method does not work for the HD camera.

The easy check to know if you have the HD camera is to make a short video.

If the resulting file name begins with "PTDC" and ends with ".MOV" then you have the HD version. Any other file names show that you do not have the HD version.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 05:19 AM
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Runaway mode

OK, I've done further testing using the supplied Emergency battery instead of my Just Mobile battery pack.
All my tests are done with a 32GB class 2 Sandisk card.

Using the Emergency battery and a fully charged internal battery I can record 80 minutes continuous video. The last file when the battery gets low does not get saved. I just want to confirm this, because I know it has already been posted. Dissapointing performance, to say the least.

However, all my videos are in runaway mode, i.e. the 20 minute clips are shown as being 2 hours long, which they are not. Thereafter the timer advances 1 minute every 10 seconds.

If the battery is completely drained, then the camera returns to normal mode. If it is not completely drained the camera remains in Runaway mode until the battery is drained.

Without the Emergency battery connected, everything works normally, but only if not already in Runaway mode.

The only way to get out of Runaway mode is to disconnect or drain the battery.

My conclusion is that Runaway mode is directly related to Pin 4 being +5V.

Am I the only person to have this problem? Perhaps this really is a HW problem?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:25 AM
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Hey i got it today. Im charging it, but it after 10 minutes RED turn off and when i again put the charger on the cam it will be red 10 minutes and off..
and when i try something capture its not working.. only yellow light and when im hitting the First button its nothing works..
What i can do?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Hey i got it today. Im charging it, but it after 10 minutes RED turn off and when i again put the charger on the cam it will be red 10 minutes and off..
and when i try something capture its not working.. only yellow light and when im hitting the First button its nothing works..
What i can do?
Red light means CHARGING.
Yellow light means READY.

Are you sure that an SD card is inserted?
Short-Press the SMALL button (shutter). What happens?

See here for instructions
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:36 AM
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Hi Tom, I downloaded and tried SD Formatter on a couple of small cards (1 and 2 gig) as a test. From what I read Full Erase on and size adjustment are the best settings. I tried my card reader on XP Sp3 and Laptop Vista home premium and on both I get a message 'Flash erase operation has been cancelled because this drive does not support it'. I'm not surprised it didn't work with my XP machine, but Vista?

Correction. Just tested with a spare 128 mb card but using 'full erase overwrite' and it did work. I've got a new 8 gig Kingston class 4 for my new cam and don't want to mess it up before I even start. Is that ok too? Any ideas please? thanks.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:44 AM
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I ahve 8 GB micro sd card
First i push DOWN bigger button for some seconds it will turn off for seconds and then yellow light on..
Then im trying pushing the first small button and nothing.. Long press short press.. nothing..
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I ahve 8 GB micro sd card
First i push DOWN bigger button for some seconds it will turn off for seconds and then yellow light on..
Then im trying pushing the first small button and nothing.. Long press short press.. nothing..
Disconnect from PC (I'm sure it's disconnected, but just to be sure)
SHORT-PRESS the bigger button and WAIT 2-3 seconds.
What happens?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:50 AM
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Light yellow for 2 seconds.. Then off for 1 seconds.. and then ON for ever..
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:51 AM
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Poland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Hey i got it today. Im charging it, but it after 10 minutes RED turn off and when i again put the charger on the cam it will be red 10 minutes and off..
and when i try something capture its not working.. only yellow light and when im hitting the First button its nothing works..
What i can do?
When the camera is connected via USB and illuminates a yellow LED, you can not do video or photos. It is normal that each user has.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Light yellow for 2 seconds.. Then off for 1 seconds.. and then ON for ever..
That is CORRECT!
Now SHORT PRESS the small button (ONCE ONLY). What happens?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:57 AM
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Absolutly nothing? Yellow light still on and nothing..
BTW : Its now fully charged and i disconnected charging cable.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Absolutly nothing? Yellow light still on and nothing..
BTW : Its now fully charged and i disconnected charging cable.
That most probably means that your SD card is bad.
Is it formatted?
Is it perhaps full?
Can you read it in an external card reader?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:04 AM
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I received two packages today..
That HD cam and 8 gb micro sd with ADAPTER
I can read it and put in files with adapter
I formatted it 2x and still nothing
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:16 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmob View Post
Did you not order yours from one of those sellers?
the likelyhood of me having ordered from one of those with no knowledge of this thread when i did so is very small :-)
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I received two packages today..
That HD cam and 8 gb micro sd with ADAPTER
I can read it and put in files with adapter
I formatted it 2x and still nothing
From where did you buy your SD card? I hope not from China.
See this blog for fake SD cards - there are many more.

Check your SD card using h2testw. You can download it from the original site here. The site belongs to the German c't magazine. Press the "Download" button, and on the next page press "Download direkt von heise.de".
[edit]This link gets you there faster.

The program runs in English or German.
Check the entire card, and delete all files when finished.
There should be ZERO errors.

I'm sure that your camera is OK. It's the card that is your problem. There is also a very vague possibility that the card contacts in the camera are not good. You didn't by any chance pull out the card by force did you?
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Last edited by Isoprop; Feb 23, 2011 at 08:06 AM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:43 AM
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SAINT-LOUIS (68) FRANCE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMcCoy View Post
Hi,

Anyone knows the difference between MP4cam2AVI and AnyVideoConverter?

My computer failed to start the MP4cam2AVI because LIBMAD.DLL component was not found. I wonder why.

The AnyVideoConverter on the other hand works fine.
libMAD.dll is in the X:\Program Files\MP4Cam2AVI_v2.83 folder, 57856 bytes.
My OS is WinXP SP2.
I will pleased to know the difference between MP4cam2AVI and AnyVideoConverter too.
Jacques
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 07:49 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
the likelyhood of me having ordered from one of those with no knowledge of this thread when i did so is very small :-)
They are the only sellers of this camera that we know of. Who did you buy from?

Have you got a genuine HD key cam? You can tell it is if the video file names start with "PTDC" and end with ".MOV"
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 08:13 AM
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Done.

Test finished without errors.
You can now delete the test files *.h2w or verify them again.
Writing speed: 5.15 MByte/s
Reading speed: 11.8 MByte/s
H2testw v1.4
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 08:38 AM
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What i can do??
If i buy a 16 GB micro sd card..
it will be better buy a class 2 , 4 ,or 6 ?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Done.

Test finished without errors.
You can now delete the test files *.h2w or verify them again.
Writing speed: 5.15 MByte/s
Reading speed: 11.8 MByte/s
H2testw v1.4


What i can do??
If i buy a 16 GB micro sd card..
it will be better buy a class 2 , 4 ,or 6 ?
Well, that proves that your card is ok.

For some reason that I can't explain, your camera knows that the card is inserted but it thinks it's full.

Do you have a another SD card to try, maybe from your mobile?

I'm afraid I'm out of ideas. Perhaps someone else has a brain wave?

I'll let someone else recommend which card to buy because I have no experience here. Normally, the higher the class, the better - one would think -
But, there is nothing wrong with your card as I can tell. Very strange...
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Last edited by Isoprop; Feb 23, 2011 at 08:57 AM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:03 AM
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Yes i tried another cards.. I have 4gb in mobile and 2GB card.
Still not works..
Nothing works..
Its only yellow light and nothing..
Its like frozed
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:11 AM
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I just ordered from Ebay new card and i hope it will work with that high speed 6 class card:

Team Class 6 microSD microSDHC micro SDHC TF 4GB

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT


Good choice?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:30 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
Yes i tried another cards.. I have 4gb in mobile and 2GB card.
Still not works..
Nothing works..
Its only yellow light and nothing..
Its like frozed
Are you saying you can't turn it off?

Have you tried a pin in the reset hole?
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:32 AM
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I can turn it off.
Yes now i tried and it still not works.
EDIT:
and now look . Mysterious files what i see in my 8 GB card..
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Last edited by denoo9; Feb 23, 2011 at 09:37 AM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I can turn it off.
Yes now i tried and it still not works.
EDIT:
and now look . Mysterious files what i see in my 8 GB card..
I think that you have a hardware problem or your firmware is screwed up.

There is just a wee chance that your camera may be able to read the SD card.

Format your card and try and update the firmware exactly as I described here.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:11 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmob View Post
They are the only sellers of this camera that we know of. Who did you buy from?

Have you got a genuine HD key cam? You can tell it is if the video file names start with "PTDC" and end with ".MOV"
Oh yes definitely HD and yes starts with ptdc and mov

I got it from someone called powerdigital898

he knows VERY little english.

I recorded a few videos. (while grainy as hell it has IMPRESSIVE low light capabilities!!)

I put the timeset.txt file onto the card. it set the time properly.

so I copied the turn off stamp firmware and that was it. I tried to turn it on absolutely nothing. No yellow light. gave it a bit nothing tried again nothing.

put the memory card back into the computer removed the firmware file. still nothing.

the only response I can get out of the camera is to make the red led illuminate when I plug into USB power. it otherwise appears unresponsive. I tried the reset button nothing even took it apart to press the reset button directly nothing.

Hopefully he will replace it. the language barrier is INSANE. when he converts from chinese to english the wrong words come across and I think when he converts my words to chinese or tries to read them he gets completely wrong meanings. he is trying but its clear he is not understanding.

I said I was using it all day to record video and now its dead and he replies it can't record all day you can't fit that much on 8gb card :-) hehe groaaaanannnnn !!! :-)

it might not even be the firmware that killed it this was also the first time I ever plugged it into a usb port (I used a dedicated charger to charge it and sd adapter to read the card) so that might have killed it too.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:12 AM
Gravity - It's the law
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USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
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Here's a quikie from a Bud's Pilatus Porter modified from an EZ Build kit. He cut in flaps and ailerons and added what he calls "Squeels" (skis built around the normal wheels).

Not really On T but it was shot with my #11 with the focus adjusted for distance. Just lind of thought it was a cool plane.

Pilatus Porter (1 min 13 sec)


Yabba
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:32 AM
not running for the exercise
airmob's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
I got it from someone called powerdigital898
That seller is indeed listed in Post 2.

Quote:
I said I was using it all day to record video and now its dead and he replies it can't record all day you can't fit that much on 8gb card


I hope have some luck trying to explain to them what's happened. We really need a good Chinglish dictionary
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 12:23 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
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what we need is someone here a member and fan of these units who can read and write Chinese to communicate with them :-) hehe

Ahh I see him in the list. I was only looking at the top 4 :-) did not even dawn on me to see if he was in the bottom 4

you know what would be killer? now that they can do full 720p 30fps without dropping frames I WOULD LOVE to see a 240fps 352x240 version of these critters no audio needed. that should take about the same horsepower. or 720x480 at 120fps.

Holy Crap could I Have fun with that kind of power in a package this small. Just wow.
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Last edited by nerys; Feb 23, 2011 at 12:28 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 12:36 PM
Dance the skies...
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United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingMcCoy View Post
Hi,

Anyone knows the difference between MP4cam2AVI and AnyVideoConverter?

My computer failed to start the MP4cam2AVI because LIBMAD.DLL component was not found. I wonder why.

The AnyVideoConverter on the other hand works fine.
This is explained in the video editing link on post #3. AVC does a full re-encode... the other just copies the video from the .MOV file format into an .AVI format without altering the content, so it is VERY fast by comparison.

That dynamic linked library file (libmad.dll) comes in the archive with the program, so you must have an outdated or corrupted download. See the link I mention for a link to the file download sites.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Battery going to explode soon

Hello, I've been reading this thread, quite interesting information here. I think I'll try to remove the IR filter on one of the two HD cameras I've got, thanks NightRunner417 and others for the information, very useful.

But before that, I would like to share two pictures of the battery in one camera. Has anyone seen someting like this before? The battery has been inflated, like it was about to explode. Those pictures were taken yesterday, today is worse and is leaking. This is not supposed to happen on HD cameras, since they have battery charging circuit, but somehow, it happened.

I've noticed it when it was turned off and resting on a table, unused since a day or two. It suddenly *turned itself on* due to the phisycal pressure of the battery to the board, the power switch was stuck, and the case was noticeably deformed. When screws were removed, the cover jumped like there was a spring inside.

I've already placed it on a safe container since it looks it will finally explode or burn itself very soon.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 01:21 PM
Grrr :-)
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and also more important DOES NOT RE ENCODE so you do not lose quality. the quality is already bordering a re-encode would be bad.

can you then feed this avi file into virtualdub and cut it without re-encoding?

yeah that is a BAD Battery. STOP charging it. its probable not big enough to explode but it can and will ruin your camera and maybe catch fire (though not likely)

if you can not return if you can replace the battery or power it externally. just solder a new cell into place (the wires are nice and long)

otherwise return for replacement.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenvoid View Post
Hello, I've been reading this thread, quite interesting information here. I think I'll try to remove the IR filter on one of the two HD cameras I've got, thanks NightRunner417 and others for the information, very useful.

But before that, I would like to share two pictures of the battery in one camera. Has anyone seen someting like this before? The battery has been inflated, like it was about to explode. Those pictures were taken yesterday, today is worse and is leaking. This is not supposed to happen on HD cameras, since they have battery charging circuit, but somehow, it happened.

I've noticed it when it was turned off and resting on a table, unused since a day or two. It suddenly *turned itself on* due to the phisycal pressure of the battery to the board, the power switch was stuck, and the case was noticeably deformed. When screws were removed, the cover jumped like there was a spring inside.

I've already placed it on a safe container since it looks it will finally explode or burn itself very soon.
How long did you let it charge? So I don't do it too.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 02:06 PM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
435 Posts
that "should" not be relevant in this unit. it actually has IC to prevent over charge IE it stops charging when its done.

his ic either was not working or he got a bum battery is all.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 02:45 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nerys View Post
and also more important DOES NOT RE ENCODE so you do not lose quality. the quality is already bordering a re-encode would be bad.

can you then feed this avi file into virtualdub and cut it without re-encoding?
...
Not sure what post you were referencing, but I just mentioned the re-encoding difference two posts prior to yours. Plus, it's in the video editing FAQ link in post#3 if new readers would read the first three posts in this thread as the thread title suggests.

Yes, Vdub WILL load a direct stream copy .AVI file conversion from MP4cam2AVI, but will NOT properly play one converted with AviDemux direct copy mode (one of it's biggest weaknesses). Only VLC can properly handle the direct copy file from AviDemux (that info is also in the FAQ link :-)
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 23, 2011 at 03:25 PM. Reason: spelling
Old Feb 23, 2011, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenvoid View Post

I've already placed it on a safe container since it looks it will finally explode or burn itself very soon.

Good!!!!! However to save the camera if you haven't done so yet. Snip that darn thing off. Mix a little pan or glass with a strong mix of salt water. Drop it in & then puncture it with something sharp in the salt water. Leave it for a day or so & it will render it inert.

I'm sure you can get a new battery for it.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 03:23 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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What is in that strange IM.? file? Can you read it using Notepad (or do you have a Linux PC?) The icon info shows it as being over 1GB in size, but the available space on the card is shown as 7.43GB, with the card only being 8GB in size... not possible. How are you formatting the card?

I suggest formatting the card with the SDformatter program (google for free download). Then, put the card in the camera and access it as flash memory on your PC (push large power button once briefly after plugging into the USB port and after the red LED comes on.)

What do you now show in the card's root directory? Can you copy a file to the card (any file) and read it from there? You might also re-run the memory test program on the card while it is connected with the USB cable. Tell us what you find.

This will assure the card has been formatted properly and for best performance, that it is making solid contact with the card slot pins in your camera, and the camera should be able to read/write to the card. If the camera still will not record to the card, it is either faulty (e.g. could be bad or poorly soldered button switch) or you are doing something different pushing the buttons. Did you try to take a still photo?

Please read the FAQs on post #3 if you don't know how to toggle on the photo mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I can turn it off.
Yes now i tried and it still not works.
EDIT:
and now look . Mysterious files what i see in my 8 GB card..
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 03:30 PM
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Springfield, VA USA
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Instead of trying to get the same type of battery as a replacement, I suggest that you clip the battery leads off long enough to allow you to easily solder in a connector for an external battery....I did that to an 808 low res camera. Works great. I added a Park Zone PKZ3052 battery connector wiring for a Cessan 210. I use E-Flite batteries and charge it in an E-Flite charger.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 03:59 PM
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I maked a video.
Sorry for the darkness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASaiMlrvd1g

You can see. I putted to the HD cam a 8 GB micro sd card and when i wanted
record, it not works.. Its still yellow.
And the mystery files i cant read or play.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:25 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denoo9 View Post
I maked a video.
Sorry for the darkness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASaiMlrvd1g

You can see. I putted to the HD cam a 8 GB micro sd card and when i wanted
record, it not works.. Its still yellow.
And the mystery files i cant read or play.
I can see the yellow LED turning on/off a few times, but can't tell what buttons you are pushing. But first, did you reformat the card as I suggested, and try to read/write a file to the card when it's in your camera and connected to your PC via USB connection? One thing at at time...
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 23, 2011 at 04:32 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 04:31 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isoprop View Post
...
Without the Emergency battery connected, everything works normally, but only if not already in Runaway mode.

The only way to get out of Runaway mode is to disconnect or drain the battery.

My conclusion is that Runaway mode is directly related to Pin 4 being +5V.

Am I the only person to have this problem? Perhaps this really is a HW problem?
Tried a test with the emergency charger connected (i.e. +5V on the USB pin 4). My file attribute dates do not advance and "runaway" betweeen successive files, so your camera is a one-of-a-kind from what's been reported so far.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 06:19 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenvoid View Post
....
But before that, I would like to share two pictures of the battery in one camera. Has anyone seen someting like this before? The battery has been inflated, like it was about to explode. Those pictures were taken yesterday, today is worse and is leaking. This is not supposed to happen on HD cameras, since they have battery charging circuit, but somehow, it happened.

I've noticed it when it was turned off and resting on a table, unused since a day or two. It suddenly *turned itself on* due to the phisycal pressure of the battery to the board, the power switch was stuck, and the case was noticeably deformed. When screws were removed, the cover jumped like there was a spring inside.

I've already placed it on a safe container since it looks it will finally explode or burn itself very soon.
4 causes of Lipo puffing up.
1. faulty battery.
2. over charge.
3. over discharge.
4 over temperature.
Its not 3, 'cos it switched itself ON.
Shouldnt be 2 cos it has its own control chip - but that could be faulty.
sot that leaves 1 or 4 ..
4 - Did you have it in sunlight? or by a laptop hot air outlet?
1 - so is life..

carefully disconnect the battery, & some people say pierce with scredrive and dump in a (metal) bucket of salt water to make sure you don't have an incendiary device in your workshop.
Mike
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:18 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUDDERLESS View Post
HI
Probably been mentioned before, if not, I used the ESC output to power a cheap still camera, through the USB port of the camera.

RUD
Hey, I was just thinking this... Has anyone out there tried to run a line from an unused receiver channel output to the USB connector on the keycam? I made my own four-AA to USB rig a long time ago as an experiment with my cellphone and mp3 player, and I verified just now that it charges the keycam just fine even while recording video. Looks like the current drain is about 50 - 60mA from the AA pack, so I can't see it posing any issue with draw on a BEC output from an ESC. It *might* create signal noise issues on the cam and/or the plane avionics, but if that could be dealt with effectively, then all one would need is a very light cable to go from a receiver channel to the keycam USB, and presto, no more battery issues.

I might just go ahead and test it tonight to see what happens. Crossing fingers!

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:27 PM
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Great idea... keep us posted.
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:42 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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Well, it appeared to work just fine - the red charge light came on and everything. I plugged it into the BAT connection on my RP8D1 with the plane "hot", and there were no servo twitches or such as that. On the camera test recording, the "bzzzt bzzzzzzt" noise that is always there to some degree anyway did get a little louder, but not terribly so - it's just there. I'm thinking that a capacitor across the power input might help, so I'm going to try that next.

The biggest two issues I can see right now are that noise and the weight of the cabling, but I think it could be done with only a slight increase in total weight. I'm going to try to be ready with a prototype for my next flying day so I can test it for real. Last time I flew, I didn't capture the flight I REALLY had my heart set on because the battery was eaten up on the previous flights. If this will work for me, then that'll be the end of that bs, and I won't have to miss a flight in the clouds in high def again. >:-)

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:51 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Hey, I was just thinking this... Has anyone out there tried to run a line from an unused receiver channel output to the USB connector on the keycam? I made my own four-AA to USB rig a long time ago as an experiment with my cellphone and mp3 player, and I verified just now that it charges the keycam just fine even while recording video. Looks like the current drain is about 50 - 60mA from the AA pack, so I can't see it posing any issue with draw on a BEC output from an ESC. It *might* create signal noise issues on the cam and/or the plane avionics, but if that could be dealt with effectively, then all one would need is a very light cable to go from a receiver channel to the keycam USB, and presto, no more battery issues.

I might just go ahead and test it tonight to see what happens. Crossing fingers!

Rick NR417
To be on the failsafe side, test it with a dead lipo in the camera while recording, and see if it can keep up (with 3 servos also being exercized!)
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:52 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
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A cap across the power input didn't help... but then too I was placing it across the far end of the cable from the camera. My feeling is that it is probably RF that is normally emitted by the camera, and the USB cable acts as an antenna, feeding some of it back in on itself, thus being recorded as electronic noise in the audio. There may be all kinds of ways to deal with that, so we'll see.

As for the basic idea, I think it will work just fine but I'm not going to test it by leaving it and the plane connected for an hour, lol. I gotta get to bed so I can be up early-ish for work, so I can afford all these silly things. I'll put some more time into the project when I get home tomorrow evening.

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
To be on the failsafe side, test it with a dead lipo in the camera while recording, and see if it can keep up (with 3 servos also being exercized!)
Very good idea. I'll put that on my to-do list for tomorrow! :-)

Quick Edit: In order to initialize the recording, I'm having to start the camera, start the recording, and THEN plug in the external power, or it just sits there like it's in USB mass storage mode with a solid yellow light. Thus, I can't really go with a DEAD battery, but I can make sure it's barely got a wisp of charge when I do the test.

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Well, it appeared to work just fine - the red charge light came on and everything. I plugged it into the BAT connection on my RP8D1 with the plane "hot", and there were no servo twitches or such as that. On the camera test recording, the "bzzzt bzzzzzzt" noise that is always there to some degree anyway did get a little louder, but not terribly so - it's just there. I'm thinking that a capacitor across the power input might help, so I'm going to try that next.
...
Rick NR417
That buzzing sounds that cycles about every second is the deathe knell of the onboard battery! It should not be audible always if your battery is healthy and fully charged. Do the test I suggested before you fly... better than a BEC shutdown and a crash!
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Very good idea. I'll put that on my to-do list for tomorrow! :-)

Quick Edit: In order to initialize the recording, I'm having to start the camera, start the recording, and THEN plug in the external power, or it just sits there like it's in USB mass storage mode with a solid yellow light. Thus, I can't really go with a DEAD battery, but I can make sure it's barely got a wisp of charge when I do the test.

Rick NR417
Well in that case you don't have a proper cable that will both charge and power the battery at the same time. You'll find that when the 20 minute stop/continue function of the camera kicks in, the camera will NOT restart the next 20 minute recording. You need the special cable for this. Search this guide or look at the link on post #3 for already documented details on this.

I guess if you only need a 20 min. recording, this might still work, but you can make a proper cable to charge and record at the same time. But I have a major concern that the BEC can keep up with the camera load while recording, and also power 3 servos on a 3S pack with a comfortable margin of safety. This is based on the fact that the internal 250 mAH battery will only power the camera by itself while recording for about 45 minutes, which suggests an amp draw of about 300 mA while recording, or else it'snly using a fraction of it's available power. If the camera were only drawing about 60 mA from the on-board battery, it would power the camera for more like 4 hours.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 23, 2011 at 10:13 PM.
Old Feb 23, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
That buzzing sounds that cycles about every second is the deathe knell of the onboard battery! It should not be audible always if your battery is healthy and fully charged. Do the test I suggested before you fly... better than a BEC shutdown and a crash!
On mine, it's always there, just gets progressively louder as the battery discharges. As the battery nears full discharge, it becomes very loud and begins to appear in the video itself as streaks of noise in time with the audible part of it. I tested the battery voltage when I thought my camera was dead this last time, and it measured at precisely 4.2VDC, just as it should be, and my discharge test tonight yielded almost exactly 40 minutes of video in two 1GB files, as it should have. I think this "death knell" is not there to warn of battery discharge, although it may be handy for that. I think it's the RF noise of its own circuitry doing the work of capturing/processing video, and it just becomes more present as the battery voltage drops.

Anyway, I'll be reasonably sure of what I'm doing before I put her in the air. At this point, I'm confident enough that a low current charging circuit isn't going to reset my ESC... If I'm that close to the wire, then I have bigger problems with my plane than a keychain camera... and if the keychain cam spikes above say a couple hundred mA while charging a 250mA lipo cell, then all is not right in the world with it either, lol.

More tomorrow night!

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 11:16 PM
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I got one of these today and just got around to fiddling around with it a bit,seems to not like normal room ambient lighting too much,seems a bit dim,is that normal?,is this even the right product?.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by McDanger View Post
I got one of these today and just got around to fiddling around with it a bit,seems to not like normal room ambient lighting too much,seems a bit dim,is that normal?,is this even the right product?.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I think you got the wrong product.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:17 AM
not running for the exercise
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Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDanger View Post
I got one of these today and just got around to fiddling around with it a bit,seems to not like normal room ambient lighting too much,seems a bit dim,is that normal?,is this even the right product?.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
No, that's one of the SD key cams, discussed elsewhere.

This thread is about the much better HD key cam. Please read the first two posts of this thread which will explain all about it and where to buy from.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:20 AM
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deleted... redundant
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:36 AM
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Thanks guys,will give this thing a spin around outside tomorrow in daylight and see if it can give me acceptable results,but i think this will be a return to sender for refund job,and then take me chances with a China order,is it only available from China?,a UK vendor would be nice.

Cheers
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:40 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDanger View Post
Thanks guys,will give this thing a spin around outside tomorrow in daylight and see if it can give me acceptable results,but i think this will be a return to sender for refund job,and then take me chances with a China order,is it only available from China?,a UK vendor would be nice.

Cheers
No, only from China, see post 2 for a list of the only sellers.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:57 AM
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Tom,

I down loaded MP4cam2AVI from the link you posted on page 1. Still a no go.
I actually tried re-down load a few times.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Tried a test with the emergency charger connected (i.e. +5V on the USB pin 4). My file attribute dates do not advance and "runaway" betweeen successive files, so your camera is a one-of-a-kind from what's been reported so far.
Thanks for testing, Tom. Looks like this is a hardware problem then. I'll report back when I receive my new "replacement".

From what I've been reading in your thread, it appears that there are quite a few duds of these cameras...
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 05:13 AM
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Hey, thanks for all your suggestions. I feel an insane temptation to shortcut the battery or apply a high voltage and enjoy the fireworks The salt water trick looks more correct thing to do, though

@empeabee: I'm almost sure it is n.1, faulty battery from begining. This camera arrived a few days ago and was mostly unused except for a short test recording.

The seller (hxelepro360) answered soon and kindly offered a replacement battery, I'm very happy with their support. In the meantime, I have a battery that *may* work, it was ripped from a tablet pc. It is huge compared to the original (6000mAh), I wonder if the charger circuit will handle it correctly.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 06:27 AM
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Joined Mar 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenvoid View Post
....

The seller (hxelepro360) answered soon and kindly offered a replacement battery, I'm very happy with their support.
Thats good of them
Quote:
In the meantime, I have a battery that *may* work, it was ripped from a tablet pc. It is huge compared to the original (6000mAh)
Quote:
, I wonder if the charger circuit will handle it correctly.
1. if it is a single cell.
2. if this little battery have its own charge control circuit included?
3. If it has, A USB port only provides max 1000 mA = 6 hours to charge IF the USB port doesn't shut down/blow a fuse/let the smoke out when the thing demands 6000 mA to do a 1C charge....
Did you rip out the charge cct as well?

Mike
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 06:54 AM
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I think you may blow up your pc if you try and charge through the usb!
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 07:11 AM
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
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Ok so this is probably going to be redundant info, but what the hey.

I used a very crude, homemade patch cable to send the power from four AA batteries (NiMH) to the USB connector of the #11 keycam while recording video. The good news is that it didn't burn anything up, and it did in fact charge the cam at least to peak. Bad news is that Tom was of course correct, and the recording process stopped completely at the end of a single recording. I repeated the experiment and got the same results. Charging may also have stopped at this point, but I don't know for sure.

Like Tom said, if all you need is a single 20 minute run and you don't mind restarting, then jacking the camera's USB port to the BEC output of a plane ESC looks like it MAY be a decent solution, providing it doesn't overload the ESC when servo load is accounted for. It is NOT a decent solution if you wish to a full memory card of recording without any intervention needed to keep it going.

So, this project is on hold, pending the answer to two questions:

Do I understand correctly that these single-AA emergency chargers will keep the camera rolling throughout a multiple video run without user intervention needed to keep it going? Where can I find one that for sure DOES do this, assuming they exist?

Am going read the thread a little more thoroughly and see if I can find these answers myself, but any help is appreciated. If I can mimic what one of Tom's "proper cables" is doing, then I can maybe make this work after all.

Tom: I have a wattmeter for my planes... If it's accurate and resolves finely enough, then I can likely use it to see how close to the line I am pushing the ESC to a brownout, safe and sound on the bench. If it looks like it's just too close a thing, then I will try other options.

Rick NR417
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Last edited by NightRunner417; Feb 24, 2011 at 07:18 AM.
Old Feb 24, 2011, 07:27 AM
Just thumbing through...
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Sunny (mostly) SC, home of the Joe Nall
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Anyone that needs long recording time can get a #7 SD cam from HK and modifiy for external power like this. Very cheap solution, 5 FPS is ok for surveillance etc. The #7 does close and continue every 70 minutes. I use a balance port tap to feed from a single cell of the flight pack.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 07:29 AM
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Ah, ok... Reading deeper at post #3 as Tom suggested, I found the already documented info. That's the price of being a DIY sort of person - you want to do it all yourself and not have it done for you. Alas, the info I needed was right there because of course it's been done before. VCC on pin #4 is probably what I need. I have the car charger, which according to what has been explored, SHOULD power the camera through multiple videos without my intervention needed. If it does, then that's a FANTASTIC place to start because I can dissect it, prove the theory, and create my own setup for the plane. It's also very possible that being the car charger is made for a 13.8VDC source, it may just be ok running straight from a 3S lipo pack. If THAT works out, then all I need to do is strip it down to a lighter design and run it straight from either my flight battery or my FPV battery.

Lots to try and little time to do it, but I'm going to try the first phase of that right now.

Thanks, Tom, for your help!

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by victapilot View Post
Anyone that needs long recording time can get a #7 SD cam from HK and modifiy for external power like this. Very cheap solution, 5 FPS is ok for surveillance etc. The #7 does close and continue every 70 minutes. I use a balance port tap to feed from a single cell of the flight pack.
Ha, that's very cool, Victapilot! 20 hours, wowwwwww. I may just get one of those just to have a long run surveillance recorder, like you suggested. I can think of SO many uses for something like that, mmmmmm. :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 08:00 AM
What? Not a T-Rex!!!
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USA, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Mar 2008
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I would urge everyone to take the time to use this tool provided by the AMA to write a letter to our representatives regarding possible FAA regulations of our RC flying hobby.

If you are reading this....it affects you!

http://amagov.modelaircraft.org/4077
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empeabee View Post
1. if it is a single cell.
2. if this little battery have its own charge control circuit included?
3. If it has, A USB port only provides max 1000 mA = 6 hours to charge IF the USB port doesn't shut down/blow a fuse/let the smoke out when the thing demands 6000 mA to do a 1C charge....
Did you rip out the charge cct as well?
I have hacked usb ports that provides up to 10A, so no problem for the computer, but I doubt the poor camera will handle 6A through it, thanks for pointing this!

The battery needed several hours to charge when it was placed on its original gadget so maybe it does not try to charge at 1C, but can't say for sure. I *think* it is a single cell, and all I know is that it seems to have "some" circuit soldered to the cables (charging controller maybe?). Yeah, it seems a bit risky to try, too much fun if this one explodes

The other option is using external power. It seems to work with usb power alone and no battery. Webcam and storage modes work. Maybe if I make the special usb cable it can record video without battery too. I'll probably try this option first.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 11:11 AM
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awesome forum!

I just wanted to post a big thanks to Tom Frank for starting this and to everyone for posting some very valuable info. I'm a newb at RC with a background in video. I just ordered my very first RC Heli (DH 9077 Falcon) and of course the HD keychain cam. I ordered from digitalele889 and I suspect it will be a month before I actually get it (China to U.S.).

Based on some feedback posted here I do not think I will be messing with the timestamp removal, at least not right away.

What I find interesting is the link Tom posted up to the CMOS chip that is used. It sure looks like there are capabilities to adjust exposure & white balance if a developer/programmer ever delves into this. Would be great to be able to hook it up to a laptop in the field and set the exposure/white balance to a "fixed" state before take off....just a thought.

I will postup as soon as I can get some flight time in and video from the 808 HD.

regards,
Dave
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 11:52 AM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Hello again..

My problem with the HD card still not ended.
I contacted the internet-shop and he saying it can be defective item.
He said i can send it to them and he refund me or give me another camera..
But i will not pay 16€ for sending camera to China..
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 11:58 AM
Grrr :-)
nerys's Avatar
Levittown PA 19057
Joined Aug 2006
435 Posts
ahh guys an idea. how about REMOVING the internal battery all together and running your servo tap TO THAT ? (voltage regulation? will 5v burn it up?) then you remove the "draw" of the charging circuit which is probable more than the camera's uses.
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Old Feb 24, 2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McDanger View Post
...
...is it only available from China?,a UK vendor would be nice.

Cheers
The last vendor in the list on post #2 is a UK eBay site... still from china, though!
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