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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:55 AM
6 months to finish a rtf
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:57 AM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavlo77 View Post
Nice video Tom. Did you also discover your new camera is slightly larger? Yesterday I mounted them side by side (old versus new), and I was wondering why one camera was at a slightly higher position.... Closer inspection learned that the new camera has a bigger shell! The camera is about 25% more thick. No problem of course, but quite interesting.

Because I was surprised by the sharper images from my new camera, I tweaked the focus of my older one. Now they both have the same sharpness! The focus was beyond infinity!
I had not noticed any difference in thickness. I don't have my old one to compare, but I do have a couple of #3 808's. I can see a very slight difference compared to those, but nothing like 25%... maybe 1mm is all.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 01:38 PM
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Are you guys saying there is a new version of the HD camera thats a tiny bit thicker and gives better image quality? That's what it sounds like, but I've found no other mention of it.

I do like my HD keycam a lot, but have still been unable to find a way to expand the fov as wide as I could get on the original keycam, without causing lots of blurring on the edges, or lots of distortion..
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I had not noticed any difference in thickness. I don't have my old one to compare, but I do have a couple of #3 808's. I can see a very slight difference compared to those, but nothing like 25%... maybe 1mm is all.
I measured the thickness of mine (circa December 2010) in the front near the lens opening, it was 12.32 mm. I cannot measure the middle because of the velcro I have iinstalled there. It's glued in placed and I choose NOT to remove it to measure the thickness in that area.

If the newer ones come with a thicker plastic case it would make sense because when I took mine apart to adjust focus the electronics just barely fit back in.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 02:45 PM
Dance the skies...
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Useful Filters in AviDemux Editor

Quote:
Originally Posted by sgbfly View Post
Hi Tom,
...
I've also had a look at your before and after vid. I noticed that when your over the golf course about 8 or 10 seconds in the camera's natural colour balance hunting is not so apparent. Have you corrected this deliberately or is it not so noticeable because of the saturation and contrast adjustments you have made?

Also, I would appreciate it if you could provide details on exactly which filters you used and their numerical settings. I think I recall you saying you use the asharp filter but for the others (saturation and contrast) I'm not sure.

I notice that the "mplayer eq2" filter provides fine adjustment - you might want to have a look at that one.

Here are a couple of my own vids using 2 HD keychain cams (they have a slight software sharpness adjustment and nothing else) :
...
If anyone wants to have a look at the video quality more closely then here are the original files I uploaded.

http://depositfiles.com/files/1ralk2krd
http://depositfiles.com/en/files/q9kzce2e1

Thanks

Simon
Hi Simon,

This replacement camera seems like it has better color balance ability. This is a subjective opinion since I don't have my original one to do a side by side comparison. But I do have separate AV clips shot with each camera, and the old one would go in/out of color saturation/contrast changes when the horizon was barely in view and the plane dipped or banked very slightly to bring a tiny bit more sky into the frame. It was overly sensitive, making faster, bigger adjustment steps. The new camera did not do this nearly as much in the "Eagle" video, but instead seemed to just vary the brightness most of the time, keeping the same relative color saturation and contrast. I like that much better than the original camera. Maybe I'm imagining this, but if it appears that way, it IS that way to my eye!

On the down side, this newer CMOS sensor seems to have visibly LESS low light sensitivity, so I'm seeing more noise in indoor clips than I saw with the older one. But this lower light sensitivity might be partially responsible for the better white balance and color swings in AV video?

FWIW, I have ask MyCameraGal about the different sensor in the newer cameras, and should have a reply back in a day or two.

Both of my HD key cams have the color saturation and contrast set too high for my eye. While the videos look more vivid this way, they also look less true to the real life scene. Some prefer the more vivid look, but I'm not one. So, I use the very same filter you mentioned, "Mplayer eq2", to adjust to my taste and my camera's output. I can do all the color tweaks with just that one filter. I also apply the "Asharp" sharpness filter. If the scene is very low light with very visible noise, I will also apply the "Mplayer hqdn3d" denoise filter first. The sharpness filter can make noise more noticeable, too, so if needed, the denoise filter should be applied first and stacked above the sharpness filter in the AviDemux filter selection window. Finally, if I had the camera mounted inverted such as was the case in the Eagle video, I will apply the rotate filter first to correct orientation. Those are the only filters I found necessary for my needs so far.

Some unexpected side benefits of applying the color/contrast correction and sharpness filters is that the orangish "hot spot" that can often be seen in the center of the video frame all but disappears, the corner/edge darkening is also very visibly decreased, and some of the detail hidden in darker, shady areas is revealed. Use of these filters will increase the encoding time, of course, and for a 10-15 minute AV, there's some wait time to go have a cold one, read the forums posts, etc.

Here are the filters and settings used in the Eagle video, with a screen shot of the filter selection window:

Filter Category/Name: Settings

Transform/Rotate (if needed): 180 deg.
Colors/Mplayer eq2: Contrast 90, Brightness 0, Saturation 65
Noise/Mplayer hqdn3d: default settings
Sharpness/Asharp: default settings

To complete my settings, I always use MPEG-4AVC video codec, set for 2-Pass Average Bit Rate output with 7000 Mbps, MP3 (lame) audio, in MP4 container (screen shot below):
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 04:20 PM
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Hi Tom,

Thanks for the detailed info.

I've got a mk1 (blue lens) and mk2 (red lens) and I concur, the mk2 has more noise in low light conditions. I also noticed that the mk2 was very neatly glued and the lens nice and central to it hole in the case, whereas my mk1 was rather botched with hot glue and off centre.

Simon
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:00 PM
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I'm scared to try to take off the time stamp
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:29 PM
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I'm embarrassed to ask but, here goes. Today I attached (Velcro) my newly acquired HD key chain camera to the underside of the mid-wing on my Radian Pro. I did not want to show the prop. The plane flew well with no ill effects from the camera. I came home to review the video and it's upside down

Is there any way to turn it 180 degrees or...do I need to attach it to the top of the wing instead

Dan
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
I'm embarrassed to ask but, here goes. Today I attached (Velcro) my newly acquired HD key chain camera to the underside of the mid-wing on my Radian Pro. I did not want to show the prop. The plane flew well with no ill effects from the camera. I came home to review the video and it's upside down

Is there any way to turn it 180 degrees or...do I need to attach it to the top of the wing instead

Dan
Fly your Radian upside down (they will).

But if you don't want to do that, there is a flip (maybe 90 degrees at a time, I don't remember) in Windows Movie Maker and also Live Windows Movie Maker.

I don't recall but Tom may have mentioned that you can do it with Avidemux or whatever it's called also.

Yabba

BTW, all my Radian videos were taken with the keyfob on the top of the wing, just forward of the high point so the camera would angle downward a little bit.

Click on my Avitar andd the first two videos are taken with a keyfob on top of the wing with a Radian

Y.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
Fly your Radian upside down (they will).

But if you don't want to do that, there is a flip (maybe 90 degrees at a time, I don't remember) in Windows Movie Maker and also Live Windows Movie Maker.

I don't recall but Tom may have mentioned that you can do it with Avidemux or whatever it's called also.

Yabba

BTW, all my Radian videos were taken with the keyfob on the top of the wing, just forward of the high point so the camera would angle downward a little bit.

Click on my Avitar andd the first two videos are taken with a keyfob on top of the wing with a Radian

Y.
Yabba,

Thanks for the info. I'll try WMM as soon as I find some software to correctly convert a .mov file to an .avi file. I've tried serveral and all it converts is the audio - not the video

Next try will be on top of the wing

Dan
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgbfly View Post
Hi Tom,

Thanks for the detailed info.

I've got a mk1 (blue lens) and mk2 (red lens) and I concur, the mk2 has more noise in low light conditions. I also noticed that the mk2 was very neatly glued and the lens nice and central to it hole in the case, whereas my mk1 was rather botched with hot glue and off centre.

Simon
My MK2 has a blue lens, so I don't think the coating is a way to ID them visually. My lens was also very well glued in with hot melt, and aligned straight ahead, but not well centered in the case hole (but not obscured by the case, so not a problem). The different ribbon cable and the nymber stamp on it is probably the only way to ID the MK2.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
I'm scared to try to take off the time stamp
If you bought it within the last couple of months, I don't think you need to be concerned. Any camera that has been bricked by the process (only two reported here) have been replaced by the vendors.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post

Next try will be on top of the wing

Dan


Yeah Dan, try it. It really works well with the Radian. I mount mine about 8 or 9 inches out from the fuse and don't get any of the prop arc from that position. I don't think the Radian even knows it's carrying a camera

Yabba
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
Yabba,

Thanks for the info. I'll try WMM as soon as I find some software to correctly convert a .mov file to an .avi file. I've tried serveral and all it converts is the audio - not the video

Next try will be on top of the wing

Dan
Check the post 1505, it's just a little bit above
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
Yeah Dan, try it. It really works well with the Radian. I mount mine about 8 or 9 inches out from the fuse and don't get any of the prop arc from that position. I don't think the Radian even knows it's carrying a camera

Yabba
Mine is mounted about 7.5 inches out from the fuse on my radian. For balance, I put a quarter on the bottom of the opposite wing near the tip. I built a jig that shows me the camera's field of view both vertically and horizontally. Since my cams get mounted on a lot of things besides aircraft and with the jig I can keep unwanted stuff out of the camera's view.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
Yabba,

Thanks for the info. I'll try WMM as soon as I find some software to correctly convert a .mov file to an .avi file. I've tried serveral and all it converts is the audio - not the video

Next try will be on top of the wing

Dan
The free Pazera Mov to Avi will do the conversion you need. There are other converters listed in the thread also.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:22 PM
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Arrrrrgh it looks like I bricked my camera doing the datestamp removal thing. I wasn't clear on how long exactly to hold down the power button when firing it up for the firmware update, so I held it for a couple of seconds and released it, and the yellow light never did come on. I waited quite a while, 30 seconds at least, and then tried pressing the button again... nada. Pulled the memory card and wiped the firmware file off it, tried powering it up, still nada. She's totally unresponsive now.

Where do I go from here? Do I just email the vendor and hope for the best?

Thanks...

Rick NR417

EDIT! Better hold the phone on that one. It WASN'T responding, and so figuring that nothing I could do at this point could cause more harm, I put the "Date On" firmware on the memory card and tried turning it on both plugged into and not plugged into the USB port. Surprise surprise, ding on the computer and yellow light on the cam. It's working! Gonna retry the flash procedure now... Crossing fingers!
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:38 PM
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If I ever get lucky and get an HD camera. I think I'm going to keep the date & time where it is at and not turn it in to a brick.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:39 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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And WHEWWWW it worked! I tried it exactly the same way as with the panicky "try everything approach" that seemed to bring her back around:

1) Put the firmware file on the card with a USB card reader.

2) Put the card back into the camera.

3) Plug the USB cable into the cam and computer.

4) Press the camera power button for about one second.

5) Wait a few seconds. Yellow light comes on after about 5 seconds and then the USB connection ding sounds on the computer.

6) Delete firmware file off now functional USB mass storage device (the camera), and pull the USB connection.

7) Power camera up as usual, works fine and NO DATE STAMP yeeehaw! :-)

Part of the way I arrived at this method is because when it was unresponsive, I noticed that plugging the camera into the USB port, I would get the red charging light, but it would go totally dark as soon as I tried to power the camera up. This made me think that it might not be dead per se, just unable to start due to a botched firmware attempt. What then if I gave it the default firmware and tried to make it load that, thus fixing the camera? I don't know if that's how it actually went down, but it's working fine now and that's what I care about. Boy do I feel like I dodged a bullet!

Happy dance! :-D

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Arrrrrgh it looks like I bricked my camera doing the datestamp removal thing. I wasn't clear on how long exactly to hold down the power button when firing it up for the firmware update, so I held it for a couple of seconds and released it, and the yellow light never did come on. I waited quite a while, 30 seconds at least, and then tried pressing the button again... nada. Pulled the memory card and wiped the firmware file off it, tried powering it up, still nada. She's totally unresponsive now.

Where do I go from here? Do I just email the vendor and hope for the best?

Thanks...

Rick NR417

EDIT! Better hold the phone on that one. It WASN'T responding, and so figuring that nothing I could do at this point could cause more harm, I put the "Date On" firmware on the memory card and tried turning it on both plugged into and not plugged into the USB port. Surprise surprise, ding on the computer and yellow light on the cam. It's working! Gonna retry the flash procedure now... Crossing fingers!
If you will follow the instructions linked in the FAQs (post # 3) you will see that the camera should NOT be connected to the USB during the firmware updating process. If the process is follow exactly as described. replacing the firmware is no more difficult than re-setting the time/date with the .txt file, other than the fact you need to delete the firmware file from the flash card when done.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
If you will follow the instructions linked in the FAQs (post # 3) you will see that the camera should NOT be connected to the USB during the firmware updating process. If the process is follow exactly as described. replacing the firmware is no more difficult than re-setting the time/date with the .txt file, other than the fact you need to delete the firmware file from the flash card when done.
Yes, I know and that's how I did the first attempt, NOT connected to the USB port. I only tried that AFTER the camera became unresponsive, as a last ditch effort when my only other options became soldering or emailing. Whatever the case, the firmware update worked fine with it connected to the USB port through the entire process. It might be worth noting down, since apparently it is unexpected behavior and may in fact have saved a bricked camera.

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRunner417 View Post
Yes, I know and that's how I did the first attempt, NOT connected to the USB port. I only tried that AFTER the camera became unresponsive, as a last ditch effort when my only other options became soldering or emailing. Whatever the case, the firmware update worked fine with it connected to the USB port through the entire process. It might be worth noting down, since apparently it is unexpected behavior and may in fact have saved a bricked camera.

Rick NR417
My first HD key cam worked just like the instructions say, but my second one did what yours did... yellow LED never came on. I thought I must have done something wrong, but my second one has a different CMOS sensor, so maybe there is something else about it that doesn't work the same? I also revived mine by simply plugging into the USB port, and reflashing it. Maybe this is now common with the newer versions? If so, I'd like to get more feedback from others on this. I'll revise the instructions in my link if needed.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
My first HD key cam worked just like the instructions say, but my second one did what yours did... yellow LED never came on. I thought I must have done something wrong, but my second one has a different CMOS sensor, so maybe there is something else about it that doesn't work the same? I also revived mine by simply plugging into the USB port, and reflashing it. Maybe this is now common with the newer versions? If so, I'd like to get more feedback from others on this. I'll revise the instructions in my link if needed.
Firmware updating has ALWAYS been a scary process as far back as I can remember, back to the days of old slow modems and such. DON'T even breathe or you may brick your (insert piece of expensive technology here), lol.

I definitely don't want to suggest my method above as a normal routine for people that want to remove the datestamp on their WORKING cameras, because God forbid I be wrong and cause a new fad of bricking cameras en masse... BUT... an already bricked camera can't be REALLY bricked, lol, so why not try it out on those and see how it goes. Can't hurt to try. As for the ones that are working fine... Man, anyone who wants to try an "against the grain" method like I just did, that's up to y'all... I'd start of course with what is known to work best and only try the crazy stuff when all seems lost. Maybe down the road it will just emerge that the "plugged in" method works fine with certain versions, bricked or not.

Anyway, I'm just really really really happy that it's not bricked afterall. I've had enough angst for one week as it is, lol.

BTW, have I mentioned that I LOVE this camera? Wow... For such a tiny thing, such a SIMPLE device, it really works great. I refocused it using distant streetlights as a target, did day and night testing, worked out a transcoding method that does nice for working within Adobe Premiere, all that, and I'm really thrilled. You can't beat the results at this price level, not so far as I know of, and it's so TINY! Best $40 I've spent in a very long time. :-)

And Tom, thank you so much for all the great info in this thread! Excellent work! :-)

Rick NR417
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 09:51 PM
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For what it's worth, there is a program that rotates .mov files

QUICKTIME MOVIE ROTATOR
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
For what it's worth, there is a program that rotates .mov files

QUICKTIME MOVIE ROTATOR
The AviDemux editor will do that PLUS all the other great filter tweaks and re-encoding, too.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:02 PM
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I am trying to remove the Date/Time Stamp on my Key Chain camera.
As per the directions in the beginning of this thread I have copied the "date off" and "date on" firmware patch files (FW96630A.bin) to the camera's flash card root directory.

After disconnecting the camera from the computer I am not sure how to tell if the new firmware loaded in the camera when I turn it on and the date still appears in the play back. Any advice or help with this would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
I am trying to remove the Date/Time Stamp on my Key Chain camera.
As per the directions in the beginning of this thread I have copied the "date off" and "date on" firmware patch files (FW96630A.bin) to the camera's flash card root directory.

After disconnecting the camera from the computer I am not sure how to tell if the new firmware loaded in the camera when I turn it on and the date still appears in the play back. Any advice or help with this would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
You should only put ONE firmware patch in the root directory of your flash card... the one you want to load. Since both date on and date off patches are named exactly the same, you must not copy them both the the flash card at the same time. Once you copy the one you want to the flash card, disconnect from the USB port. Turn thr camer off, then back on.... wait for yellow LED to light up... should only take about 5 seconds normally. Then, turn off the camera, erase the firmware file from the flash card before you turn it back on. The date should be gone.
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:29 PM
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I did use only the date off patch, my error in the above post. I tried it again and after disconnecting my camera now the yellow light will not turn off…I think I now have another problem
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
I tried it again and after disconnecting my camera now the yellow light will not turn off…I think I now have another problem
Did you switch off the camera before disconnecting it from your computer?
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Old Feb 13, 2011, 11:54 PM
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Also, push the reset button with a paper clip. That should turn off the camera. Then plug it into USB BEFORE turning it on, and erase the firmware pactch from the card. Then remove from PC and turn it on. If it functions normally, shoot a test clip to see it the date stamp is there. If it is, repeat the patch installation again, making sure you follow the instructions to the letter.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:00 AM
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Not sure what you mean by this, I used the safely remove hardware icon in the system tray. I got the camera to turn off by deleting the FW96630A.bin file from the root directory.

I have now recopied the FW96630A.bin date off file to the root directory of the camera and disconnected from my computer and as instructed I turned the camera back on and the update seemed to happen and I removed the FW96630A.bin file but the date still appears on the video

Sorry to be so dense but I can not figure out what I have done wrong
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
Not sure what you mean by this, I used the safely remove hardware icon in the system tray. I got the camera to turn off by deleting the FW96630A.bin file from the root directory.

I have now recopied the FW96630A.bin date off file to the root directory of the camera and disconnected from my computer and as instructed I turned the camera back on and the update seemed to happen and I removed the FW96630A.bin file but the date still appears on the video

Sorry to be so dense but I can not figure out what I have done wrong
Hmmm... you are shooting new video to check the date removal, right? If so, the only thing I can suggest is to re-check that you have put the correct date off firmware on the card, and not the date on firmware by mistake. The date off file is the smaller of the two. Then try again.

If you still are not getting the date removed, I'd download the files again from the link you can get on page 3 of this thread. You may have a corrupted file.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 14, 2011 at 12:17 AM. Reason: spelling
Old Feb 14, 2011, 02:47 AM
ptg
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Ebay sellers

Tom Frank,
You as HD #11 guru, can You please tell me, which ebay sellers, You think, are the same company but with different names ?

Which are in connection with INTERNETSHOP365 :

ELETOP...
POWERGPS...
???

Thank You in advance.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Tom Frank,
You as HD #11 guru, can You please tell me, which ebay sellers, You think, are the same company but with different names ?

Which are in connection with INTERNETSHOP365 :

ELETOP...
POWERGPS...
???

Thank You in advance.
The suspicion is, that all the sellers listed in Post #2 work at/for/with one particular company: HETAI Digital Technology who appear to be the sole wholesaler/manufacturer? of this device.

I believe that the various sellers' addresses are the same as this company.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 09:02 AM
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YEAH MAN!!!! it worked I removed the time/date with no brick.....I ant going to lie i was scared
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 09:20 AM
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Now i need to work on refocuse....but there is hot glue holding the lens and super glue on the threads
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
My first HD key cam worked just like the instructions say, but my second one did what yours did... yellow LED never came on. I thought I must have done something wrong, but my second one has a different CMOS sensor, so maybe there is something else about it that doesn't work the same? I also revived mine by simply plugging into the USB port, and reflashing it. Maybe this is now common with the newer versions? If so, I'd like to get more feedback from others on this. I'll revise the instructions in my link if needed.
I think it should be on the front page. Too many people reporting this, who think they bricked their cams but they still get the red LED and the cam is not bricked at all.
This has been reported and solved early on in this thread.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepinside View Post
I think it should be on the front page. Too many people reporting this, who think they bricked their cams but they still get the red LED and the cam is not bricked at all.
This has been reported and solved early on in this thread.
Several, myself included with the my new one, experienced the Yellow LED not coming back on after the flash procedure. A couple never recovered.

As I recall, I just plugged mine in to the USB port after it would not turn back on normally, got the red LED, pushed the camera's power on button to toggle to the flash drive mode, and saw I could access the card. I saw the firmware patch was still on it, so I erased it, disconnected the camera, turned it off, then back on. It worked normal with no date stamp.

I think this is the same as what you did. I'll add this to the FAQ link on post #3 that describes the procedure for flashing in the Date/time stamp toggle.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
Now i need to work on refocuse....but there is hot glue holding the lens and super glue on the threads
Yes, this is described in the procedure for refocusing in the FAQ link in post #3. The glue should be carefully removed before trying to turn the lens in it's holder.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptg View Post
Tom Frank,
You as HD #11 guru, can You please tell me, which ebay sellers, You think, are the same company but with different names ?

Which are in connection with INTERNETSHOP365 :

ELETOP...
POWERGPS...
???

Thank You in advance.
Apple, who runs the eBay Power-GPS store, gave me the links to the eight stores I have shown in post #2, and asked that I list them all. Diana, who I bought mine from and runs the hxelepro360 store, told me her partner is Power-GPS. I don't know how these partnerships are arranged, but the return address on the shipping labels seem to be the same, and is also the address for returning a camera if necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by airmob View Post
The suspicion is, that all the sellers listed in Post #2 work at/for/with one particular company: HETAI Digital Technology who appear to be the sole wholesaler/manufacturer? of this device.

I believe that the various sellers' addresses are the same as this company.
I also believe this is the source of the cameras. If you browse the web site you linked, they claim to be developers and wholesale distributers of many different consumer items, and they have an "affiliate" sales program to broaden their sales presence. This would explain the close tie the eBay sellers have with things like firmware changes, etc.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 01:32 PM
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All ebay sellers of #11 HD keychain work for the same company - yes. I ordered today my second camera from my seller eletoponline365, and he/she was very kind by sending me a real video sample made by my future camera --> CLICK! . On this video can be seen the workplace of all #11 HD keychain ebay sellers
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Looks like a nice place to work
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 05:44 PM
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I was disappointed that I couldn't prolong the recording with the emergency charger, so I bought a "Mobile Phone Charger" with MiniUSB-out at a local store, which holds 4 AA batteries to see if I could record and charge with that. Cost me about 10 euro (~ 13 dollar), which of course is highly overpriced since there is no manufacturer mentioned (the charger is probably from China; a similar one should be available anywhere in the world).

I opened up the Mini USB plug and soldered 5V from Pin 1 to Pin 4. Then I took 4 rechargeable NiMH AA's from Energizer (2450 mAh, 1.2 V) - fully charged of course - and tried to record with the HD cam (internal battery emptied before).
It worked immediately and I recorded for 3hours 36min 36s on a Kingston 8GB in the 10 Mbps mode (emptied the card twice in between). A total of 16,26GB were recorded. I got 9 20-minute-files (each around 1.575.100KB) and 2 18-minute files.
With a charged internal battery this would sum up to about 4 hours 16 minutes of recording time. In the 7 Mbps mode, with a bigger flash card and e.g. 4 Li-Ion batteries, 2900 mAh, 1.5 V I would probably get even more recording time (same of course with a battery pack from JustMobile like Isoprop has used). The 4 batteries I used gave me less recording time than I had expected.

The "Mobile Phone Charger" weighs 37 gram without batteries (with batteries its 152 gram). Length 73mm, Width 69mm, Height 19mm. It has an On/Off Switch.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 05:46 PM
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Just got my camera today. Worked out of the box, and ran the .txt file to set the time. That worked fine. Then ran the firmware update to turn off the date, and all is well.

Note; I used Winzip to look at the two firmware files. It shows the DateOn, and DateOff in that window. I just drop each one in its own folder for a no fuss future use. See attachment.

Frank,
This is a very well put together thread. Especially like the way the first few posts are organized. Saves alot of reading.

On running the firmware update for the time stamp. I had to guess a bit, as I was not sure that after running the update that I needed to remove the memory card to delete the file. Otherwise i would have to switch the camera back on for the computer to read the drive, and did not know if that would cause the firmware update to run again. I just put the memory card into the full size SD adapter to get to the file and erase it. Your directions hinted that that was the process.

Thought I would comment. Forgive if I misunderstood.

Ken
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:14 PM
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I still cannot remove the time date stamp , I have placed the FW96630A.bin camera off file in the root directory of my camera and it does not seem to load the new firmware into its internal memory when I turn the camera on and it lights up instantly with out any pause. I have even tried to change the date using the TIMESET.txt but this does not work either.

The directions mentions replacing the flash card but I am confused by this because my camera does not appear to be open able

“5. Replace the "cleaned" flash card in the camera, turn it on”

Sorry to be so confused with this but this should be so simple, I am beginning to think I may have a different model of camera
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:27 PM
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Your prob. putting the file in the wrong spot....can some one on here post a pic of were to put the file on the card root directory to move it around till it worked but i can't remember were
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
...
Frank,
This is a very well put together thread. Especially like the way the first few posts are organized. Saves alot of reading.

On running the firmware update for the time stamp. I had to guess a bit, as I was not sure that after running the update that I needed to remove the memory card to delete the file. Otherwise i would have to switch the camera back on for the computer to read the drive, and did not know if that would cause the firmware update to run again. I just put the memory card into the full size SD adapter to get to the file and erase it. Your directions hinted that that was the process.

Thought I would comment. Forgive if I misunderstood.

Ken
Thanks for the feedback. I revised the instructions in post #12 to hopefully make this more clear.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
Your prob. putting the file in the wrong spot....can some one on here post a pic of were to put the file on the card root directory to move it around till it worked but i can't remember were
Thanks for your quick reply, here is a screen shot from my computer showing where I put the time off file


D:/ is my camera…I assume I have done this correctly?
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADAR_66 View Post
Your prob. putting the file in the wrong spot....can some one on here post a pic of were to put the file on the card root directory to move it around till it worked but i can't remember were
The root directory is the one that first opens when the card is either put into an external card reader, or when the camera is connected to a PC USB port and toggled into the flash drive mode by briefly pressing the "power on" button.

The "DCIM" folder can also be seen there if the camera has been used to take a video. Copy the file into that folder, NOT into the DCIM folder or it's subfolder.
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The root directory is the one that first opens when the card is either put into an external card reader, or when the camera is connected to a PC USB port and toggled into the flash drive mode by briefly pressing the "power on" button.

The "DCIM" folder can also be seen there if the camera has been used to take a video. Copy the file into that folder, NOT into the DCIM folder or it's subfolder.
Take a look at photo I posted, as you can see I have it in the correct place
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
Thanks for your quick reply, here is a screen shot from my computer showing where I put the time off file
...
D:/ is my camera…I assume I have done this correctly?
Well that looks correct! I don't think having Vdub folder there would mess things up, but I'd copy it to your hard drive and do your processing there anyway... much faster file access. Then try again.

Did you D/L the firmware .bin files again like I suggested to see if you might have a corrupted file?
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 09:52 PM
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Does anyone know if the pinouts of compact camera modules (CCMs) like those used in the keychain cam, use a standard pinout? I am specifically thinking of those that terminate in 24 pin "fingers". are the pinouts on CCMs standard in general or... not?
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Old Feb 14, 2011, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plexus View Post
Does anyone know if the pinouts of compact camera modules (CCMs) like those used in the keychain cam, use a standard pinout? I am specifically thinking of those that terminate in 24 pin "fingers". are the pinouts on CCMs standard in general or... not?
They have 24 contact ribbon cables, but they don't seem to be standard. There are two versions of the HD Key cam that have totally different ribbon cables trace patterns and connections to the same circuit board. I guess it's possible the pinouts are standard, but on one version they are not connected to the circuit board, and on the other they are connected, but not used.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 15, 2011 at 11:26 AM. Reason: TYPO! I meant 24 pinouts, NOT 22!
Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:51 AM
Cape Cod
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Cape Cod
Joined Sep 2010
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Hi,
I have a HD cam I received before Christmas. It works fine with the usual high saturation and contrast.
Finally got around to trying to remove the time stamp. Here is the problem I have and do apologize if its been discussed before.
After loading the bin file onto the chip via a reader I insert it back into the camera. It takes about 8 sec and starts up normally. View the pics via the reader and yes no time stamp. I them delete the bin file from the camera root directory and insert it back into the camera and it bricked. It wiil not start!!. If I reload the file onto the chip it starts after the obligatory 8 or so seconds. Also as a point of interest the camera is not recognized by the laptop but it does charge it. This is not too important at the monent but just thought I would mention it. Any ideas anyone???

Thanks,

Tom
Cape Cod
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:18 AM
Fidler & twidler
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Joined Mar 2004
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Tom have you deleted the .bin file from the camera memory card? sounds like it's repeatedly re-flashing itself, which is not good news as internal flash memory tends to have a low reflash life, cos it aint needed often.
Mike
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
Also as a point of interest the camera is not recognized by the laptop but it does charge it.
Unlike the previous SD key cams, you have to turn on the camera after connecting it your computer.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 05:49 AM
define("BEASTMODE", "1");
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Here's a video from mine, from the back of a Hawk Sky... It's the first time I've had it on a (relatively) vibration free platform on a bright sunny day. Worked well!

HD Keychain camera (#11 version) Onboard Hawk Sky (9 min 50 sec)
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 05:57 AM
Cape Cod
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Thats right I have deleted the bin file from the root directry as instructed and it seems that it does not hold the startup program. It works but has to go throught the "boot" each time when I reload the file on the root directory.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:54 AM
ptg
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Ebay sellers

Thank You Tom and other for kind answer about #11 cam sellers connection.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepinside View Post
I was disappointed that I couldn't prolong the recording with the emergency charger, so I bought a "Mobile Phone Charger" with MiniUSB-out at a local store, which holds 4 AA batteries to see if I could record and charge with that. Cost me about 10 euro (~ 13 dollar), which of course is highly overpriced since there is no manufacturer mentioned (the charger is probably from China; a similar one should be available anywhere in the world).

I opened up the Mini USB plug and soldered 5V from Pin 1 to Pin 4. Then I took 4 rechargeable NiMH AA's from Energizer (2450 mAh, 1.2 V) - fully charged of course - and tried to record with the HD cam (internal battery emptied before).
It worked immediately and I recorded for 3hours 36min 36s on a Kingston 8GB in the 10 Mbps mode (emptied the card twice in between). A total of 16,26GB were recorded. I got 9 20-minute-files (each around 1.575.100KB) and 2 18-minute files.
With a charged internal battery this would sum up to about 4 hours 16 minutes of recording time. In the 7 Mbps mode, with a bigger flash card and e.g. 4 Li-Ion batteries, 2900 mAh, 1.5 V I would probably get even more recording time (same of course with a battery pack from JustMobile like Isoprop has used). The 4 batteries I used gave me less recording time than I had expected.

The "Mobile Phone Charger" weighs 37 gram without batteries (with batteries its 152 gram). Length 73mm, Width 69mm, Height 19mm. It has an On/Off Switch.
Thanks a lot for this!
I would like to get it right, don't want to brick my camera,
is this correct?:

"minus" goes to pin 5, and "+5v" goes to pin 4

Thank you!
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 08:45 AM
Fidler & twidler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
Thats right I have deleted the bin file from the root directry as instructed and it seems that it does not hold the startup program. It works but has to go throught the "boot" each time when I reload the file on the root directory.
uh - I am now
Mike
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 09:50 AM
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I have a problem I don't recall seeing previously on here (sorry if it has been covered).

When my camera is left to record for a long time, all but the last file are cut off at the size of .98 GB, and will not play in Quicktime. Quicktime pops up with an error, and I can't recall what the message says - it was something odd. The last file, which is created when I manually stop the recording before the camera automatically creates a new file, will play without a problem.

I'm using a 4GB card and it is not being filled up prior to the recording being stopped.

I'd apprecaite any help in getting my other files to play.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 10:21 AM
not running for the exercise
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirChime View Post
I have a problem I don't recall seeing previously on here (sorry if it has been covered).

When my camera is left to record for a long time, all but the last file are cut off at the size of .98 GB, and will not play in Quicktime. Quicktime pops up with an error, and I can't recall what the message says - it was something odd. The last file, which is created when I manually stop the recording before the camera automatically creates a new file, will play without a problem.

I'm using a 4GB card and it is not being filled up prior to the recording being stopped.

I'd apprecaite any help in getting my other files to play.
Was it a "bad public movie atom" error message?

Try VLC.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmob View Post
Was it a "bad public movie atom" error message?

Try VLC.
YES! I was like what the heck is that?! It will be a few days before I'll be able to download VLC and give it a whirl. Is it a problem with Quicktime or is this a bug with the camera?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:10 AM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
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Chinglish for byte error...
Cheers,
Jim
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Well that looks correct! I don't think having Vdub folder there would mess things up, but I'd copy it to your hard drive and do your processing there anyway... much faster file access. Then try again.

Did you D/L the firmware .bin files again like I suggested to see if you might have a corrupted file?
Thanks for your help with this; this is so simple I really do not understand why this is so difficult to do. I am not sure what you mean by copying the Vdub folder to the hard drive and doing the processing there. Should I remove the Vdub folder from my camera and then try the no date firmware patch?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Poland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirChime View Post
I have a problem I don't recall seeing previously on here (sorry if it has been covered).

When my camera is left to record for a long time, all but the last file are cut off at the size of .98 GB, and will not play in Quicktime.
If these files are 0.98GB in size the recording time is 20:00, as are all users of this camera mode 7Mbps. These cameras record 20 minutes so the files that not every player is doing with the playback. Application VLC plays these files without problems.
Upload a file to an application called GSpot v2.70a and read parameters.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
The AviDemux editor will do that PLUS all the other great filter tweaks and re-encoding, too.
I have tried everything under the sun, including reading posts, instructions, etc. and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to convert a .mov file (H.264) to a MPEG (or something else I can edit in WMM) using Avidemux v2.5.4.

I've used WMM in the past for simple editing so I'd like to stick with it.

Can someone help

Thanks...Dan
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:44 AM
Gravity - It's the law
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
I have tried everything under the sun, including reading posts, instructions, etc. and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to convert a .mov file (H.264) to a MPEG (or something else I can edit in WMM) using Avidemux v2.5.4.

I've used WMM in the past for simple editing so I'd like to stick with it.

Can someone help

Thanks...Dan
Hey Dan, Unless there is a reason you don't want to switch (I know I didn't want to, I LIKED WMM) there is a link to the new Windows Live Movie Maker in Post #4.

I finally bit the bullet and use it for my HD clips. It's actually better then WMM in some respects but lacks in a lot of other things (like a timeline). But you get used to it.

It has some transitions, effects, titling, captioning etc.

Takes some getting used to but it's not bad and the .mov files will import straight into it where you can do some simple editing there.

Better "save" options too.

Yabba
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 11:59 AM
Gravity - It's the law
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Here's a video of my New Hanger 9 J-3 Cub that I bought at our club auction SuperBowl Sunday.

I didn't even open the box until Monday afternoon. Geeze, talk about an ARF. I've never had a plane go together so easily. It was truly like the joke "open the box, throw in a bottle of CA, shake and the plane comes out".

SWEET Flyer.

I put my keyfobs looking thru the front windscreen and also out the open side window.

The one in front is still unfocused (that was the reason I pointed it out thru the palstic window and the prop arc, I knew it wasn't going to be a great picure but I wanted the view).

I'll get around to fucusing it one of these days. hopefully it will focus as well as my other one and I won't brick it.

Enjoy, don't worry, I cut an 11 minute flight to about 3 1/2

Nothing done with post processing so it's pretty washed out because of the snow cover. Kind of reminded me of the TV series on Discovery "Flying Wild Alaska"

Only edited with Windows Live Movie Maker

Hanger 9 J-3 Cub, Maiden Flight (3 min 53 sec)


Yabba
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
Thats right I have deleted the bin file from the root directry as instructed and it seems that it does not hold the startup program. It works but has to go through the "boot" each time when I reload the file on the root directory.
Does it work at all with no .bin file on the card? From what you've posted, it sounds like it captures video OK, it just always has the date turned on, is that right? And you can load in the "date off" firmware, shoot video with no date as long as you haven't turned off the camera, but then the next time you turn the camera on, it has gone back to the "date on" mode, is that right?

If so, it doesn't make sense that it could do that... i.e. revert to an older firmware that you just patched! But if that's what it does, it's not normal and I'd contact the camera vendor and ask for a replacement.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:13 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jantares View Post
If these files are 0.98GB in size the recording time is 20:00, as are all users of this camera mode 7Mbps. These cameras record 20 minutes so the files that not every player is doing with the playback. Application VLC plays these files without problems.
Upload a file to an application called GSpot v2.70a and read parameters.
I believe the .MOV files the camera creates has some non-standard portion in the video stream that only Quicktime recornizes when it throws up that "bad atom" error. I can play and edit the .MOV files just fine with AviDemux editor (and others, like WLMM), but when I do a "direct stream copy" (i.e. with no re-encoding) of the .MOV file into an .AVI container using AviDemux, that file will not play or edit properly. I can get sound, at most, with no video, EXCEPT when I play it back with VLC. It ignores what ever the problem is, and plays the video and audio normally, but of course, it's not an editor.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
Thanks for your help with this; this is so simple I really do not understand why this is so difficult to do. I am not sure what you mean by copying the Vdub folder to the hard drive and doing the processing there. Should I remove the Vdub folder from my camera and then try the no date firmware patch?
Yes, that's what I meant. Why is the Vdub folder on your camera flash memory card... it has nothing to do with the camera function and just takes up space. If you use the VDub editor, you should have it (i.e. the Vdub folder) on your PC.

Did you download new copies of the firmware files as I suggested?
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 15, 2011 at 12:45 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I believe the .MOV files the camera creates has some non-standard portion in the video stream that only Quicktime recornizes when it throws up that "bad atom" error. I can play and edit the .MOV files just fine with AviDemux editor (and others, like WLMM), but when I do a "direct stream copy" (i.e. with no re-encoding) of the .MOV file into an .AVI container using AviDemux, that file will not play or edit properly. I can get sound, at most, with no video, EXCEPT when I play it back with VLC. It ignores what ever the problem is, and plays the video and audio normally, but of course, it's not an editor.
Tom and all, thanks for the replies. For play back it sounds like VLC will help me out, but if I want to edit this (I've been using Pinacle 12), do I have to re-encode the file with AviDemux? Is this freeware?

THANKS!
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:20 PM
Dance the skies...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
Hey Dan, Unless there is a reason you don't want to switch (I know I didn't want to, I LIKED WMM) there is a link to the new Windows Live Movie Maker in Post #4.

I finally bit the bullet and use it for my HD clips. It's actually better then WMM in some respects but lacks in a lot of other things (like a timeline). But you get used to it.

It has some transitions, effects, titling, captioning etc.

Takes some getting used to but it's not bad and the .mov files will import straight into it where you can do some simple editing there.

Better "save" options too.

Yabba
Good advice, Yabba, but it only works with Windows 7. If he's using WMM, I don't think he has a W7 PC.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:27 PM
Gravity - It's the law
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USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Good advice, Yabba, but it only works with Windows 7. If he's using WMM, I don't think he has a W7 PC.
It will work with XP (I think) but he has to have the lastest SP and updates. I could be wrong but I'm almost certain I got it to work on my XP machine.

Y.

Now you've gotten me curious, I'm booting up the XP desktop right now.

Edit: Okay, I stand corrected. Windows essentials for XP does NOT included Movie Maker. Windows Live Movie Maker is only for Vista and Win7

I'll be quite now. Sorry Dan

Yabba
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:43 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirChime View Post
Tom and all, thanks for the replies. For play back it sounds like VLC will help me out, but if I want to edit this (I've been using Pinacle 12), do I have to re-encode the file with AviDemux? Is this freeware?

THANKS!
I don't know anything about Pinnacle 12, but if it won't import a .MOV file and edit it, then you will either need to convert the .MOV file to a format that Pinnacle will accept, or use a different editor.

AvidDemux is free and can do the re-encoding into different formats (as can several other free programs like Any Video Converter, Freemake, and MP4cam2AVI. But AviDemux is also an editor(see the FAQs link in post #3 for a LOT more info on it), that can do most basic things necessary for editing the MOV files, except to adding fancy screen transitions and titles.

<edit> Oops, I think you are using a MAC. AviDemux comes in a MAC version, but not sure about the other converters <edit>
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 15, 2011 at 01:06 PM. Reason: add MAC comment
Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:52 PM
Registered User
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Joined Nov 2010
79 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
Did you download new copies of the firmware files as I suggested?
Thanks again for your help, I removed the Vdub folder and I have even formatted the camera and re downloaded the firmware as you suggested but I still can not get it to recognize the firmware when I disconnect the camera and turn it on. The yellow light turns on immediately, there is no pause that I would expect if it loading the new firmware.

This is so simple I just can not believe I am having this problem…perhaps I have a different model camera that is not compatible with this firmware?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 01:01 PM
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Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirChime View Post
Tom and all, thanks for the replies. For play back it sounds like VLC will help me out, but if I want to edit this (I've been using Pinacle 12), do I have to re-encode the file with AviDemux? Is this freeware?

THANKS!
I'm using Avidemux following Tom' settings and It's working well enough. Check post #1505 for the detailed settings.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 01:13 PM
Dean
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USA, CO, Littleton
Joined Apr 2005
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Yaba, nice crowd. Where do you guys fly?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 01:28 PM
not running for the exercise
airmob's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
<edit> Oops, I think you are using a MAC. AviDemux comes in a MAC version, but not sure about the other converters <edit>
No, you were right the first time Tom, he must be using a PC for Pinnacle 12.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 01:51 PM
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USA, CA, Canyon Country
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
I have tried everything under the sun, including reading posts, instructions, etc. and for the life of me, I can't figure out how to convert a .mov file (H.264) to a MPEG (or something else I can edit in WMM) using Avidemux v2.5.4.

My operating system is Windows XP Pro

I've used WMM in the past for simple editing so I'd like to stick with it.

Can someone help

Thanks...Dan
Anyone


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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:03 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
Thanks again for your help, I removed the Vdub folder and I have even formatted the camera and re downloaded the firmware as you suggested but I still can not get it to recognize the firmware when I disconnect the camera and turn it on. The yellow light turns on immediately, there is no pause that I would expect if it loading the new firmware.

This is so simple I just can not believe I am having this problem…perhaps I have a different model camera that is not compatible with this firmware?
All of the cameras so far have accepted the firmware patch files, UNLESS it was renamed. The file name must not be changed, but I don't think you did this. If yours will not read and try to load the patch file, there is something different or wrong with your camera.

I'd try a couple final things, just to rule out flash card issues. Can you open the .bin file on your flash card with your PC text editor (e.g. Notepad on a Windows PC)? Assuming that works, the file can be opened and read. Finally, reformat your flash card in your computer using the "SDformatter" utility then try the firmware patch again. I doubt this will make any difference, but at least you'll know your flash card is formatted specifically for it's architecture.

If you are still unsuccessful, I'd suggest you contact your vendor and ask for a replacement camera if you don't want to be stuck with the date stamp.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:08 PM
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Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
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Hey AH-56,

Check out these posts.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1085

and when I got Avidemux to work.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1327

Both of those solutions got me files that I dumped into WMM. Then when I was done editing I had WMM produce a HD file that I upload to YouTube.

Hope this helps.

Joe
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:08 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
1,025 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by A10FLYR View Post
Yaba, nice crowd. Where do you guys fly?
Hi Dean, we're at D'evlyn. You "might" be able to get your A-10 off of the road if Chatfield's busy. Full brake, full power.

You know most of us and we know you

Yabba
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:09 PM
Cape Cod
tom3holer's Avatar
Cape Cod
Joined Sep 2010
884 Posts
Tom Frank,

Thank you also for your reply.

I guess I did not explain things very well.

It will not start, no yellow light, with no bin file in the root directory.
If I load the no time stamp bin on the root directory it starts fine after 8 sec or so. Each time I turn the camera on it goes through the 8 sec startup and seems to work fine. Again if the root directory is without the startup or no stamp file, it will not start. It seems that the memory does not hold the startup bin.
I am currently using my small windoz7 laptop and it does not recognize the camera when plugged in. This should have nothing to do with the issue at hand though.

Thanks again for any advice.

Tom
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:14 PM
not running for the exercise
airmob's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
235 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
perhaps I have a different model camera that is not compatible with this firmware?
Can I ask a really silly question? Is it definitely the HD Key Cam you've got (date stamp in bottom right corner, with figures in orangey-yellow with a black outline)?
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Last edited by airmob; Feb 15, 2011 at 02:19 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:30 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
Tom Frank,

Thank you also for your reply.

I guess I did not explain things very well.

It will not start, no yellow light, with no bin file in the root directory.
If I load the no time stamp bin on the root directory it starts fine after 8 sec or so. Each time I turn the camera on it goes through the 8 sec startup and seems to work fine. Again if the root directory is without the startup or no stamp file, it will not start. It seems that the memory does not hold the startup bin.
I am currently using my small windoz7 laptop and it does not recognize the camera when plugged in. This should have nothing to do with the issue at hand though.

Thanks again for any advice.

Tom
I see. Did your camera always do this, or only when you treid to flash in the new firmware?

A few of the HD cams, including my second one, worked fine, then when I flashed the in the firmware, the yellow LED never came back on. After disconnecting the camera from the USB port, I tried to turn the camera on and none of the buttons did anything. It appeared to be bricked. But plugging it back in the USB port and toggling it into the flash drive mode worked, I could then remove the .bin file, and the camera worked fine ever since.

Do you not get the RED when you plug the cam into your USB port? If you get that far, do you not go into the flash drive mode when you then push the power on button briefly? If those work, but the flashing process does not, I'm out of things to try and would ask for a replacement from the vendor.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:37 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AH-56 View Post
Anyone

Do you have ffdshow installed on your computer so you have the H.264 codec used by the camera? If not, it's a free download you can google for it.

Then you can download the free MP4cam2AVI file converter. It will VERY quickly do a direct stream copy (i.e. no re-encoding) of the video and change the file format from .MOV to .AVI, which WMM should then be able to load and play.

If you don't have this codec, you will need to re-encode the video as well as change the file format, which can take about as long to convert as it does to play the video. And the MP4cam2AVI utility is not the best for that task. Then I'd suggest using FreemakVC (free download) which can trim files and rotate them as well as re-encode them... maybe all you'd need to do in some cases. Or AnyVideoConverter (free download) can re-encode, but not rotate or trim. Probably a bit easier to use, though.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:39 PM
Gravity - It's the law
Yabba's Avatar
USA, CO, Denver
Joined Jul 2008
1,025 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joespeeder View Post
Hey AH-56,

Check out these posts.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1085

and when I got Avidemux to work.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1327

Both of those solutions got me files that I dumped into WMM. Then when I was done editing I had WMM produce a HD file that I upload to YouTube.

Hope this helps.

Joe
WooHoo!!! I'm back to using WMM !!! I like the transitions a lot better.

Thanks Joe, that is a neat program. From your description of your needs in the post you sound just like me, I don't want to learn a new hobby just to post a video Quick and easy, wham, bam, thank you Maam....I mean Sir.

Yabba
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:41 PM
jhi
Registered User
jhi's Avatar
Norway
Joined Jun 2009
173 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
Tom Frank,
Thank you also for your reply.

I guess I did not explain things very well.

It will not start, no yellow light, with no bin file in the root directory.
If I load the no time stamp bin on the root directory it starts fine after 8 sec or so. Each time I turn the camera on it goes through the 8 sec startup and seems to work fine. Again if the root directory is without the startup or no stamp file, it will not start. It seems that the memory does not hold the startup bin.
I am currently using my small windoz7 laptop and it does not recognize the camera when plugged in. This should have nothing to do with the issue at hand though.

Thanks again for any advice.

Tom
This sounds familiar! See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=491.

I ordered my camera early december, maybe our cameras are from the same batch? I can live with the 10-11 seconds delay loading the firmware from the SD card, besides I ordered a new camera. The new camera is most likely the new type as it is 1mm thicker. I have tried everything to make my old camera work normally and have given up. When the firmware chip (eprom) eventually stops working I may try to order a new chip and attempt some surgery

/Jan
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 02:59 PM
not running for the exercise
airmob's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
235 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaum View Post
I still cannot remove the time date stamp , I have placed the FW96630A.bin camera off file in the root directory of my camera and it does not seem to load the new firmware into its internal memory when I turn the camera on and it lights up instantly with out any pause. I have even tried to change the date using the TIMESET.txt but this does not work either.

The directions mentions replacing the flash card but I am confused by this because my camera does not appear to be open able

“5. Replace the "cleaned" flash card in the camera, turn it on”

Sorry to be so confused with this but this should be so simple, I am beginning to think I may have a different model of camera
Gary, reading back through your posts, these two sentences suddenly seem to make sense to me.

I think you have an SD key chain camera, either a #1, #2, or #4. Please look at Chuck Lohr's site to identify it. He also has full instructions on date stamp removal (if it is possible on your particular model).

<edit> If the seller (presumably not one of the ones listed in Post 2) described it as an "HD" camera, then I suspect you have a #4 as here.
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Last edited by airmob; Feb 15, 2011 at 03:21 PM. Reason: additional info
Old Feb 15, 2011, 03:06 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2011
27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sss111 View Post
Thanks a lot for this!
I would like to get it right, don't want to brick my camera,
is this correct?:

"minus" goes to pin 5, and "+5v" goes to pin 4

Thank you!
If by "minus" you mean "Ground" (usually a black cable), then yes. In most cases you don't have to solder the Ground cable to Pin 5 because its already there, so you just desolder 5V from Pin 1 and solder it to Pin 4.

The image you posted shows the front side of the USB plug. The hidden back side looks a bit different but when you see it its self-explaining.
Be careful though when you do it, make sure theres no connection between Pin 4 and 5.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 03:17 PM
Cape Cod
tom3holer's Avatar
Cape Cod
Joined Sep 2010
884 Posts
JHI and Tom Frank,

JHI,
Yes thats exactly what I have. It will work either on or off BUT only with the firmware in the root directory.

Tom,

It only did this after flashing the firmware.

Tom I apoligze but how do you toggle it into the flash drive mode? I will try this and see if it works.

The red light shows on when plugged into the usb port but it does not show up on the computer. I am now going to send an email to the vendor electrophone whatever.. and see if he will do th honorable thing.

Tom
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Last edited by tom3holer; Feb 15, 2011 at 03:26 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:02 PM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,337 Posts
Okay, shot my first indoor flight video with this camera today. On playback with my laptop there was alot of what I will call noise, and radical color changes. I mean psychodelic. Good thing I'm not on drugs. Anyone here have a similar experience? If so, can it be remedied?

Ken
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:06 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom3holer View Post
...

Tom,

It only did this after flashing the firmware.

Tom I apoligze but how do you toggle it into the flash drive mode? I will try this and see if it works.

The red light shows on when plugged into the usb port but it does not show up on the computer. I am now going to send an email to the vendor electrophone whatever.. and see if he will do th honorable thing.

Tom
The camera does not automatically go into the flash drive mode and show up connected to the PC when you plug it into the USB port. You either have to press the "power" button on (waiting for the yellow LED to light up) BEFORE you plug into the USB port, OR plug into USB port first, wait for red LED to light, THEN push the power button. When the yellow LED lights, you will be in the flash drive mode and the computer can communicate with it.

But based on your prior post, I think you have one of the oddball early ones that don't totally "brick" when attempting the firmware patch, but they also don't work normally afterwards either.

I'd try the reflash again, but before you turn it off after the first restart with the .bin file still on the card, plug into the USB port while the camera is still powered by USB, then removed the .bin file before turning the camera off. I doubt this will make any difference, but it's something that might be different to try.

Good luck. So far, everyone who has posted here with a camera problem has been taken care of by their vendors, I think.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 15, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:13 PM
not running for the exercise
airmob's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
235 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
Okay, shot my first indoor flight video with this camera today. On playback with my laptop there was alot of what I will call noise, and radical color changes. I mean psychodelic. Good thing I'm not on drugs. Anyone here have a similar experience? If so, can it be remedied?

Ken
Ken, any chance you can upload some footage somewhere so we can see what you're getting? I think "psychedelic" sounds unusual, especially indoor. Was it low-light?
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 04:14 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
Okay, shot my first indoor flight video with this camera today. On playback with my laptop there was alot of what I will call noise, and radical color changes. I mean psychodelic. Good thing I'm not on drugs. Anyone here have a similar experience? If so, can it be remedied?

Ken
Maybe you should post it for viewing. Noise is common in low light situations, but the wild colors are not. I seen evidence of this in the older 808 cameras, but so far not with the HD version. But it's likely a faulty CMOS module causing it, so should be replaced if as bad as you say.
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:11 PM
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Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,193 Posts
Tips For Using Freemake Editor

Quote:
Originally Posted by yabbadaba2 View Post
WooHoo!!! I'm back to using WMM !!! I like the transitions a lot better.

Thanks Joe, that is a neat program. From your description of your needs in the post you sound just like me, I don't want to learn a new hobby just to post a video Quick and easy, wham, bam, thank you Maam....I mean Sir.

Yabba
Yabba, I don't know what output profile you select when using Freemake ("Same as Source", maybe?), but if you don't check the output bit rate, you could be drastically degrading your vids. None of the output profiles appear to set the output bit rate to match the original. In a test I did with the "auto" bit rate option, it was set to 1/2 what the native camera's video rate was! But if you click on the small blue "gear" icon under the profile name when it's selection box pops open, you can manually set the output bit rate to be at least that of your camera's bit rate for the H.264 video codec (mine is about 6500, but I set a bit higher to 7000). Then the profile name will change to "Custom" and you can rename it to your liking and select it with a mouse click the next time. Some pics below. A pretty nice package for rotating clips, trimming unwanted portions, joining separate clips, pictures, etc. and outputting into different file formats.
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Last edited by Tom Frank; Feb 15, 2011 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Tips For Using Freemake Editor
Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:18 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar
Cranfield U.K.
Joined Mar 2004
3,957 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
I don't know anything about Pinnacle 12, but if it won't import a .MOV file and edit it, then you will either need to convert the .MOV file to a format that Pinnacle will accept, or use a different editor.

AvidDemux is free and can do the re-encoding into different formats (as can several other free programs like Any Video Converter, Freemake, and MP4cam2AVI. But AviDemux is also an editor(see the FAQs link in post #3 for a LOT more info on it), that can do most basic things necessary for editing the MOV files, except to adding fancy screen transitions and titles.

<edit> Oops, I think you are using a MAC. AviDemux comes in a MAC version, but not sure about the other converters <edit>
Tom, FYI VLC will transcode to AVI, but WMM chokes on it
'Atom' is an old term from early (OS9 W3.11 era) operating systems for what is often now called a byte-code, or an instruction code, or 'chunk' identifier.
Mike
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