Hi!

Im in the process of converting my Optic 6 to a 2.4Ghz radio with the build in Corona CT8Z module. To do this i need to connect voltage/ground and PPM signal to the PCB-transmitter witch i intend to put inside the transmitter.

I have located the pins on the board witch put them on the pins witch connect to the standard module on the back, but i saw some guy had connected the corona module to the "teacher-student" connection board(lower left on picture).



Can i use anyone of these to places to connect my module?

//Alexander

I'm interested in this also. Where did you get the module? What was the price? How is the quality/price of the receivers?

Hi!

I just finished the conversion, it wasnt any problems at all. I conected the 3 wires on the module board(upper circle) to the module. I will try to post a couple of pictures tomorrow.

I bought the module called "Corona CT8Z" from the swedish supplyer www.aircpro.com for approx. 52USD. Hooby stuff i rediciously expensive in sweden so it could probably be bought alot cheaper from ebay or HK. There is a review on youtube, from rcmodelreviews(they also got a webpage) that goes over the corona module.

Here is a picture of the transmitter now.




//Alexander

Here is a picture of the radio when i modified it.



The 3 wires from the module connected to the 3 wires(cut) that goes to the module on the back of the transmitter.

just a hint/tip/concern. I have the same module, and infact the futaba module for another of my transmitters.

Control seems to be very dependent on you having your aerial (antenna) NOT pointing towards your plane, and the corona has a horrible lag time at re-aquiring when it has lost signal.

I have nearly lost two planes like this, and for this reason I have swapped to the frsky system, slightly more money, but re-aquires in less than a second.

Hi!

I would have gone with the Frsky but all the internet stores/real stores in sweden had them sold out. I will carrie out some testing as soon as the weather gets better.

//Alexander

Originally Posted by ranstam

Hi!

I would have gone with the Frsky but all the internet stores/real stores in sweden had them sold out. I will carrie out some testing as soon as the weather gets better.

//Alexander

I think that tells you something about the merits of the frsky vs corona, if the frsky are sold out its probably because people want them more!

Looking at your pictures, I would recommend that you secure the aerial (antenna) lead a bit better, as it wont take much to pull it off the hack board where it has been soldered (probably by you if the kit is still the same). Perhaps run some glue gun glue tacking it securely to the case at this point?

Hi!

There is no doubt that Frsky is better than Corona, infact Corona is probably the worst 2.4Ghz DIY module around.

I asked around alot on the forums and people generally seemed pleased with the Corona 2.4 dsss. I decided that the slightly higher quality of Frsky didnt weigh upp the long deliverytime, and the extra cost.

I had some problems with the soldering of the antenna coming loose when i mounted the module in the transmitter. I expoxied both the antenna cord and the module safely inside the transmitter to counter this, but ill take your advice and secure it more safely

//Alexander

cool, glad to be of help.

On its first outing make sure that you do a good range check, and experiement with aerial position on the transmitter.

I dont think that the two aerials on the receiver are both active (i.e. I dont think it has a true diversity type function). On the website I bought mine from (giantcod) there is some information from corona that says not to worry if your receiver only has one aerial, as the second is just for cosmetic reasons. I found this to be a pain in the ar*e as you dont know which one is really active, just make sure that you position these well on the plane, ideally in a position that will give you an easy signal path from the transmitter to it. I would personally mount this as far back as possible, to give you the least effect from sheilding from the engine.

I have now made the decision not to use corona for flying models and confine its use to model boats where losing signal for a second or two generally doesnt cause too much problem, and its not an issue if you just stop.... cant do that in mid-air! One time with the corona hack I had to land my tiger moth (not the easiest to land anyway) with my transmitter held above my head, and having the signal cut every couple of seconds for a second which made the approach very difficult. Things got better as it got closer, but I couldnt have been more relieved when I cut the throttle and set her down. After that I decided that I wouldnt risk a 'nice' model with that radio, and after a little more though decided that an out of control model, even if it is junk isnt the safest thing to do.

I wish you well and hope all goes well... Many other people have nothing but good things to say about the corona, so it might of course be a bit hit and miss depending on quality control and the installers soldering ability, even though I had the same problem with the module as well as the hack

Thanks for the information here all. Very helpful. I'm going to hack my Optic 6 with a FrSky DHT internal module and these pics are priceless.

I plan to maintain functionality of the Spectra synth. module + original metal antenna by using a switch to change between 2.4GHz and 72Mhz. I plan to install that switch in the battery compartment and out of easy reach. All other switches, buttons and led's that came with the DHT module will be exposed, although I might also hide the "FW, 2-way,1-way" switch also. Kinds bulky, so not sure yet. Depends on case real estate.

Will try to document my progress and post here.

All,
As promised. Here's a pictorial of what I did to my Optic 6. I think it came out great.

All factory functionality remains intact, but now I can choose between using 72Mhz or 2.4Ghz at anytime by flipping a little switch inside the battery compartment. (72Mhz Spectra Module must be removed to use 2.4) I only made 3 holes on the top of the radio. One for the FrSky DHT's 2.4Ghz antenna, and 2 more for the bind button and status led. The hole where I put the 2.4Ghz / 72Mhz selector switch is already part of the battery space so no drilling/cutting needed. The location of the DHT module I chose does not interfere with the operation of any of the switches or sticks. It took me a while to figure that one out. Also notice I cut some of the extra shrink plastic that came with the DHT since it was way too much and made it too bulky.

You'll notice I intentionally left the DHT module's Rx type selection switch out of this mod since I only plan to use telemetry Rx's on it and the default for the DHT is that. And if I ever need to update the firmware on it, or I need to use the older non-telemetry Rx's, I'll have to open up the case again and add the switch. No biggie, and I can deal with that then. Just felt it did not justify drilling another hole now for a switch I will barely use.

I am also including photos of the momentary switch mod I made to have a launch preset switch for my DLG. It's wired into the Gear switch. Hopefully I'm able to program it. Have not attempted that yet.

One of the unexpected things I like about the Optic 6 now that it's modded, is it's new weight! If feels just a tad heavier and more robust than before. Kinda like the weight I'm used to with my Aurora 9.

Hope this helps someone, and than you all for helping me identify where to solder the wires. It turned out to be simpler than I had imagined.