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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:12 PM
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hog2soar's Avatar
Central California
Joined Jan 2010
965 Posts
Hey PP,

How's it going? Your build is looking good.

We're on the same page. I'm in the process of building a Sig Riser 100 also. I also changed everything,just for fun.It will have a 112" wing when complete and I will install a Hyperion 2218-12 motor that I have.

I decided to build a Pod and Boom fuselage also. I used the Bubble Dancer Pod for the the design, but put my modifications to it. I tilted the nose of the Pod down,and the boom is parallel to the bottom of the wing. So at the end of the Pod where the boom connects,the nose is sloped down,but the boom is parallel to the bottom of the wing. I really like the looks of it. I don't know it's going to fly,but it looks good(at least to my eye). I lengthened the boom I think it was 6"over the stock Riser from the TE of the wing to LE of the Stabilizer. From the firewall to the end of the boom is 51-1/2".
I fiberglassed the Pod and will paint it.

I custom built the wing tips,similar to what Bob in Seatle did.

I also custom built the tail feathers. I installed the rudder servo in the vertical stabilizer and the elevator servo is install under the horizontal stabilizer in the Pod Stabilizer mount.

I'm hoping to come in close to 40 oz. AUW,motor battery esc, servos etc. I'm 99% sure it will be under 45 oz.

Here's some pictures of it so far.

Sorry to jump on your thread.

Eddie
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 10:45 PM
planepainter
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Mt. Juliet, TN
Joined Sep 2008
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Hi Eddie. You do some great work! I like the attention you gave to the tips and the elevator. if you are placing your tail surface servos on the back, what size did you choose to go with? Micros? By the time I get done with modifying the tail feathers on my plane I will just as well had made all new ones. I might still do that. I have to go to my LHS tomorrow to pick up a few items. One thing I will get is 3/16" balsa for the tail remake. I figure I can have all new tail components made up in about an hour or so. Feel free to jump in any time with photos of your build. This is a totally open thread for anyone who wants to contribute.
I figure I will run my control rods out the back of the tail cone next to the boom, then split them towards the back. I would like to place them inside the boom but I can't find my Dremel and I don't want to hand cut holes into the carbon boom...


PP
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Old May 01, 2012, 11:50 AM
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hog2soar's Avatar
Central California
Joined Jan 2010
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Hi Don,

I'm using Dymond D60 sub micro servos. They're thin and light and have 24oz. of torque. They weigh 0.21oz L=0.95" W=0.35 H=1.06" I took them out of my DLG. $19.95 from Dymond Modelsport

I was going to run the push rods inside the boom in a teflon tube,but I figured I would probably screw it all up trying to glue them inside the boom and cutting an exit for them. So I came up with this idea. With the weight of the motor battery and esc up front,I don't think the small amount of weight to the tail surface will matter.

Once I get the inner and outer wing pannels joined I'll mount the wings and tail feathers and take a picture of it in it's skeleton state,and post it here.

Take care Don,

Eddie
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Old May 02, 2012, 03:01 AM
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awkward's Avatar
New Zealand, Auckland, Pukekohe
Joined Apr 2011
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Hi Hog
What have you used as a filler on the wing tips?
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Old May 02, 2012, 03:47 PM
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hog2soar's Avatar
Central California
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awkward View Post
Hi Hog
What have you used as a filler on the wing tips?
The white stuff you see is light weight non-shrink wall fix spackle. I got it at the local hardware store. works great.
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Old May 02, 2012, 03:50 PM
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Woodstock 1's Avatar
Ireland, County Kerry, Kerry
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hog2soar View Post
The white stuff you see is light weight non-shrink wall fix spackle. I got it at the local hardware store. works great.
Tell that to the cops !
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Old May 02, 2012, 06:18 PM
planepainter
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Mt. Juliet, TN
Joined Sep 2008
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+1 on the light weight wall spackle. Dries hard, easy to sand, paintable and covering material sticks to it well. Oh yea, did I say it is light weight?


PP
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Old May 02, 2012, 07:44 PM
planepainter
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Mt. Juliet, TN
Joined Sep 2008
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This photo shows the new hand rough sanded hatch in place. I attached the wing to the pod so the I could get the wing cutout profile correct. Remember, this was a standard SIG Riser 100 when I started. If this plane flies as well as I hope it does it goes to show what can be done with an old plane and some patience and elbow grease.
In order to get the nose faired better I will need to install the motor and fit the spinner which is on order.

PP
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Old May 03, 2012, 11:52 AM
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hog2soar's Avatar
Central California
Joined Jan 2010
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Looking good Don.

I'm going to epoxy the outer wing tips to the inner wings today. Then I can mount the wing,get it aligned and drill the mounting holes. I got the spoilers, rudder and elevator working.

I need to get the esc and motor set up. I hate that part. It seems like everytime I mess with the motor/esc,I screw something up

It's getting close to painting the fuselage,and installing the covering.

Eddie
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Old May 03, 2012, 04:15 PM
planepainter
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Bones of new stab.
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Old May 03, 2012, 09:31 PM
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United States, OR, Corvallis
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Stabs-n-stuff.....

Hey, funny, that's exactly what I'm about to start doing hopefully tonight. Since I made my Spirit wing-to-tail moment longer by 2.25 inches AND since my much shorter Ace Easy Eagle seems over-responsive at times with a horiz stab/elev which is smaller than the plans show for my Spirit, I'm probably going to make my Spirit horiz stab/elev the same size as the Easy Eagle's or make it a smidge narrower to keep if from getting tweeked in the grass on landings and make for a lighter tail.

But, my Eagle has the stab much lower relative to the wing than the Spirit, especially the way I have that Spirit modified now(wing mount is lowered, AND incidence angle slightly increased which will result in the horiz stab being in the wing's wake or closer too it than what the Eagle has.

So, given all the above, What say you on this?

Adios - Paul
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Old May 03, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Central California
Joined Jan 2010
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I epoxied the inner wing panel to the outer wing panel. Boy do I like the looks of those wings with those tips. However there seems to be a lot of torsional twist available in the outer panel. I know the covering will eliminate a lot of it,but I may add some diagonal bracing to the outer panel between the spar and TE.

I hate to add any addditional weight to the wings,but I don't like that amount of flexability/twist. I guess it's because the ribs on the riser are farther apart.

My Salsa 3M has X bracing between the spar and TE. for the entire length of the wing.

Eddie
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Old May 04, 2012, 02:27 AM
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United States, MN, Buffalo
Joined Jan 2007
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I spent a Day with a previous Sig Engineer, a couple weekends ago, and we were discussing my 140" spread. He mentioned that as a basic bird, (using 'today's' high power winches) that the Riser 100 by itself, was a weak wing, which, Eddie, you are right on track with the diagonals being added. This will strengthen the wing as a whole with minimum weight- according to said Engineer, the wing had a high weight to strength ratio. I have been high starting my Butterfly 2 wing as a Canard with no problems, so I guess I'm a softy on the launching! Johnny
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Old May 04, 2012, 02:32 AM
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Granada Hills Ca.
Joined Nov 2009
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Hi Eddie

Back in the day i used Polyester button thread for wrapping the spar's as it does not strech, just thinking out loud here.

You could take some small pcs if 64" ply put a small hole in them, glue one on each side of the wing ribs in three spots then run the thread criss cross like flying wires.

Put a set at the rear in front of the T.E. and two sets right behind the spar one top one at the bottom of the rib. Then you would have 2 crossed sets flying wires in each bay, and by using the 64" the thread will not pull through like in the soft balsa and some little 3/8" sq's of 64" ply and thread would not weight much at all.

They would look pretty neat too using transparent covering.

In each place where the thread goes through the ply use thick CA , then your wing would be stiff like fully sheeted.

You know how a bike wheel is with 40 spokes, the same thing here i think?

G Don
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Old May 04, 2012, 09:36 AM
planepainter
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Mt. Juliet, TN
Joined Sep 2008
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Rough sanded and spaces filled...

I will draw out the new fin and rudder later. Right now I am going out to the field for a bit.. Later.


PP
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