|Dec 24, 2010, 01:27 PM|
BlitzRCworks Cub 1400mm
Has anyone ever bought one of these of have any comments? Its been available for about a month or so and is now on sale for 199.00 RTF. Looks "very" scale especially for a foamy. The finish in the BH photos looks tops rate. I would have thought this would be very popular. Its actually an Art-Tech plane just a bit bigger than the little on Hobby Lobby sells.
Wingspan: 1400mm (55.1 inch)
Length: 950mm (37.4 inch)
Wing Area: 56dm2
Flying Weight: 1800g (41.3 oz)
Drive System: 3745 outrunner 700KV brushless outrunner motor
Speed Controller: 45amp brushless ESC
Servo: 4X 9g high speed micro servos
Battery: 14.8V 4S 2200mAh 20C Li-Po
Control system: 4 CH 2.4GHz Multifunctional Transmitter and Receiver
Radio Control Range: 3000 feet (1000m)
The smaller Art-Tech Cub on this thread:
|Jan 01, 2011, 03:18 PM|
yes I got one its a Starmax J-3 1400mm it flys great no problems .it comes with pin
hinges and a nice sprung landing gear .I flew with a turnigy 2650 4s 40c cg was a
touch nose heavy , two clicks up trim.I liked its some much I got the green L-4 kit as
well ,Still getting parts together for my build
|Jan 01, 2011, 10:21 PM|
|Jan 01, 2011, 10:22 PM|
|Jan 23, 2011, 05:44 AM|
Starmax/BlitzRCworks J-3 Cub Super Scale
Super Piper J3
StarMax Newest Super Piper J3
• Wingspan: 1400mm (55.1 inch)
• Length: 950mm (37.4 inch)
• Wing Area: 56dm2
• Flying Weight: 1800g (41.3 oz)
• Drive System: 3648 outrunner 700KV brushless outrunner motor
• Speed Controller: 45amp brushless ESC
• Servo: 4X 9g high speed micro servos
• Battery: 14.8V 4S 2200mAh 20C Li-Po
• Control system: 4 CH 2.4GHz Multifunctional Transmitter and Receiver
• Radio Control Range: 3000 feet (1000m)
• Excellent stability and aerobatic capability
• Most Beautiful and Best Scale electric RTF Piper J-3 Cub in the market!
• Ready to Fly in Just Minutes! No Glue Required! Quick and Easy Assembly!
• Full cockpit detail including detailed dash panels, transparent windows, seats, joystick, and pilot NOTE Joystick & Pilot NOT included in this kit
• Made of strong durable material with classic vivid color
• Perfect high-wing trainer airplane and parkflyer for beginners!
• Fly steadily and operate easily, beginners can master the flying skills in short time
• Excellent flight performance and aerobatic capability
• High scaled engine appearance
• Landing gears with working suspension that absorbs shocks for smoother landings
• Wings have the appearance of fabric being stretched across them — just like on a full-size Cub
• Functional struts provide support for the wings while being scale in appearance, and are easy to remove for transport
Hi fellow J-3 owners of this Kit....Starmax or BlitzRCworks
Discussion has started off on RainbowHu Blog......but maybe should continue here as Parkflyers Scale forum.
Have posted quite a lot of detail on above thread....and Pommie indicated link above.
Here are a couple of pics of my J-3 for interest.
New owners of this J-3 kit must now realize like me.....this by far the best handling scale model I have flown. Where it excels is its remarkable response to control input on take off and landing phase....just the same as the full size and can be flown totally scale like.
IT is very docile in the stall and can climb and bank like the real J-3 does on scale full power slipping upwards as it does!
It is also very stable airborne as well and can handle strong breezes and probably more so than its smaller 1m clone Art-Tech cousin. Landing in windy conditions is also very controllable...and with power on and good throttle management you can put her down very gently (Intermediate to Advanced Pilots) , sometimes with very little ground speed and aileron control is good to keep the wings level once you touch down in windy conditions. It is a good idea to mix in some expo function and Aileron Rudder mix if you can on your Tx.
I have also done quite a few practical modifications to stock setup although finish and detail is above average and excellent out of the box.
Will talk about it further as requested.....or check out the previous posts on RainbowHu's blog site.
|Jan 23, 2011, 10:42 PM|
Some extras I have done and a couple more flying shots by the expert photo eye of Avatar "Pommie".
|Jan 24, 2011, 07:08 AM|
Impressive pics! Looks really nice. Very good appearance mods.
What kind of flight time can you expect with the stock battery?
The heat shrink supplied as bungie covers. Hos is that held in place? Looks like you didn't shrink it at all.
The paintwork on the basic plane looks really good.
Is the wing stong enough as is?
|Jan 24, 2011, 08:06 AM|
Flight time on stock 4S 2200mAh ...about 12 minutes with reserve on moderate power.
I am getting a couple more 4S Turnigy 2650Mah....but I also use Turnigy 3S 3500Mah as well giving me about the same flight times...but with a lot less power....though this is closer to scale power ratio.
Bungie covers are larger heat shrink tubing...yes did not shrink them...found some plastic tubing that would fit over the springs snug and also allow the heat shrink to slide over them. the whole finish then looks roundish and stays in place. My springs by the way have been adjusted shorter(the ends broke some time back) so I just coil the broken ends through the plastic eyelets of the rods and bend small turn in spring wire to make them hold. I also had to fiddle around so both sides sat fairly even with springs.
Yes paintwork does come off though with finger work and holding wear over time. I got some spray on model paint and also a tin of matt yellow to mix the colours to look a little more faded and weathered....especially top of wing.
The wing (Mainplane) is heaps strong enough as is (with fibre rod centre spar insert)....but I did re enforce the carry through on the elevator ( the bit joining the left and right sections and transferring the movement of the control horn) with a wire insert shaped like an open square splayed out....as it was a little flimsy and did not carry flight loads properly.
|Jan 24, 2011, 08:18 AM|
Also If you are going to put one together....there are little things you can do...which I may have mentioned in earlier RainbowHu posts...about fixing the Undercarriage rods etc and the battery hatch and bay area.... COG setting and a couple of other areas.
|Jan 26, 2011, 09:48 AM|
Joined Oct 2008
RE: FLight Time, etc. - I fly mine with 4S3000 mAh Turnigy batteries and get an easy 18 min. with reserve (batteries discharged to ~ 3.75 volts/cell). I haven't done anything to improve the elevator but I agree that that feels like a weak point. I think this plane has the best functioning tail wheel assembly of any plane I have ever owned. And the main wheels and hubcaps are also great.
What size scale pilot are you using (1/8 or 1/9 scale)? Where did you get the Piper decal? What did you modify regarding the COG? Why did you replace the hinges and do you find that it was worth the effort?
I have ordered a Vess wooden prop but the prop that came with the plane works great. I painted mine a flat grey (with white tips) to look more like an aluminum prop. I also replaced the spinner with an acorn nut which is more rounded and looks more scale than the stock spinner IMO.
I hope the thread keeps going; but like have had said before, there is not much that can be done to improve the scale or flight characteristics of this plane.
|Jan 26, 2011, 05:59 PM|
It excels mainly in its faultless realism in scale performance....for those purists who want a model to emulate the real world full scale J-3.
Will discuss your other points shortly (back in 30min...got to drop my partner to work!)
|Jan 26, 2011, 07:54 PM|
Weight and size .... they come in near the 3S 3500 mAh I am presently using giving a Flying weight of 66.25 oz (1878g).
The 4S 2200 mAh that comes stock with the kit is a little on the light side making flying weight 64.4 oz (1826g) and a little harder to land gently in windy conditions.
I also had to modify the internal space cutting away some of the hatch and battery bay to make the wide 3S batteries fit. Also had to add another magnet latch to the front of the hatch after doing this mod as it cut away the front mount lug.
With a little wear and tear.....I have also noticed the look like Rubber on the main wheels tyres is starting to peel off! The wheels are actually foam and covered with this rubber plastic material that looses its bond eventually. I have coated the tyre tread and contact areas with matt varnish and also Matt black paint to protect this wear?...and see how that goes. I have been doing some flying in and out of rough cut fields which is taking its toll on the tyres.
The Pilot is a 1/6 scale (I think) from Hobbycity ...link below
They are on backorder(usually 2-3 weeks)...but there is the version without
Sunglasses as well and in stock....
Yes the Tailwheel is great! and very functional in suspension as well. I have replaced the tyre though to a wider foam (off Parkzone Decathalon Mainwheel from spare parts order Horizon Hobbies)
The Piper name badge decal I made with the old "Microsoft Paint" application and just covered it with clear contact (book cover) on both sides and cutting out before attaching with 5min epoxy. The slant of the lettering can also be inverted for the correct left and right side angles with the Paint program lettering function tab.
The COG I use now is the stock position. I did have it originally forward of this with some extra nose weight but that was unnecessary and required some up trim set on the elevator for normal flight. I always calculate the COG range on all my models and mark it underneath the wing using the 25% to 35% Mean Aerodynamic Chord (MAC) standard for normal wings. Models usually fly better (for scale flying) near the forward limit (25%) the heavier they are or the closer they are to their design flying weight and ideal wing loading.
In this J-3 kit the stock COG is near the 29% MAC and at the 66oz+ I fly at......it gives a near perfect level elevator (zero trim) for both scale Take off and Landing (i.e. Tail High on the Mains and gradual climbout on 75% power and similar for the landing).
I also note that the Tailplane on this Starmax/BlitzRCworks J-3 appears slightly larger than scale...but that incorporated into the models design would explain the excellent stability and control it has for RC piloting.
Yes I started to flex all the control surfaces to loosen them up when the EPO joins started tearing on me...so the Hinge mod was mandatory! ? I also like to set up my surfaces for Maximum deflection (I use up to 80% expo to dampen this)..so that I have optimum control at near stall speeds.
You are right about the completeness of this model for the average scale modeler or RC hobbyist with little else to do because of its virtual completeness in detail....but there is still the personal touch you can do to share with others who have the same passion...like you!! ...and there lots of hints to tweak this model for the scale enthusiasts.
Post some pics. Swordds of your prop and Hub....am interested!
|Jan 27, 2011, 08:03 PM|
Joined Oct 2008
My Turnigy 4S 3000mAh batteries are a tight fit width wise, I use a velcro strap placed length wise around the batteries when I install them so I can pull them out when changing batteries. I also had to cut off the front battery cover foam lug and even trim away some of the hatch thickness in the front of the hatch cover; but I replaced the EPO tab with a popsicle stick instead of a magnet.
What is the stock position for the COG (65mm)? I guess I need to know the weight of my plane with the 3000mAh batteries to figure that out, but I don't have a scale. Right now I am using 65mm.
I think I'll try using 100% D/R and 80% Expo, I never heard or thought of that before. I've been using 30% D/R and 25% Expo but for no particular reason and I haven't flown this plane enough to experiment with these settings.
I added those round yellow frame members behind the windshield like you see on pictures of the real planes. I made mine from bamboo skewers painted yellow (cheap and easy to cut to the exact length).
I also managed to wreck my landing gear by failing to flare in time after a fast, steep landing desent; so I modified the landing gear to make it more bullet proof (but less scale looking).
One thing I would like to add that looks very visible on the real planes are the hydraulic brake lines but haven't figured out what to use for this.
I know all of this would make more sense if I could post pictures but I haven't figured out how to do tats (yet). I guess I need to place my pictures on a server first? I'll probably work on that this weekend.
Also, did anyone notice the other StarMax J-3 post on this forum lookig for help with a transmitter/receiver problem? I replied but I doubt that my suggestion will help.
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