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Old Jan 17, 2013, 11:47 PM
can't buy vaporware
7oneWo1f's Avatar
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
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Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
I have to re-hinge my rudder of my extra.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXM379&P=ML

Can I just use this stuff, pull the hinge out and place a new CA hinge in? I've run out of room on the bottom of the rudder as this is the second hinge pullout. Second time I was able to put a new hinge on the bottom spot. In all my time flying I've never had to rehinge something.
Stop watching DocAustin's videos...he's a bad influence
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:28 AM
bryansifsof44's Avatar
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
I have to re-hinge my rudder of my extra.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXM379&P=ML

Can I just use this stuff, pull the hinge out and place a new CA hinge in? I've run out of room on the bottom of the rudder as this is the second hinge pullout. Second time I was able to put a new hinge on the bottom spot. In all my time flying I've never had to rehinge something.
Ive re-hinged right next to the old broken hinge before an held great. Ive tried remove hinge but I always ended up with a gaping hole.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 03:21 AM
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United Kingdom, London
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Originally Posted by bryansifsof44 View Post
Ive re-hinged right next to the old broken hinge before an held great. Ive tried remove hinge but I always ended up with a gaping hole.
its generally not recomended to put new hinges in the old spots... i tried it couple of times and allways it seemed to pull out again...

one thing you can do is dubro epoxy hinges.... gap will be big but you can seal it! and they wont come out without half of the rudder!
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 04:06 AM
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United States, AK, Anchorage
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
its generally not recomended to put new hinges in the old spots... i tried it couple of times and allways it seemed to pull out again...

one thing you can do is dubro epoxy hinges.... gap will be big but you can seal it! and they wont come out without half of the rudder!
Well I've done it to my 48" MXS starting at 200 flights and by 250 flights all surfaces had been changed due to the original hinges wearing out. And with well over 350 flights when I finally put her in they were working fine with no pull outs. On my 60" edge... 10 flights in I ripped the rudder off from impact... Now with 120 flights still going strong. So, in my experience it has worked great. I use a electric hinge slot cutter to cut out the slot for the new hinge , that may help.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bryansifsof44 View Post
Well I've done it to my 48" MXS starting at 200 flights and by 250 flights all surfaces had been changed due to the original hinges wearing out. And with well over 350 flights when I finally put her in they were working fine with no pull outs. On my 60" edge... 10 flights in I ripped the rudder off from impact... Now with 120 flights still going strong. So, in my experience it has worked great. I use a electric hinge slot cutter to cut out the slot for the new hinge , that may help.
as i said, not recomended to debond old hinges and put new ones in the same slots... if you cut new slots, of course it will work....
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 06:38 AM
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Burke, VA
Joined Sep 2009
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Originally Posted by bryansifsof44 View Post
Well I've done it to my 48" MXS starting at 200 flights and by 250 flights all surfaces had been changed due to the original hinges wearing out. And with well over 350 flights when I finally put her in they were working fine with no pull outs. On my 60" edge... 10 flights in I ripped the rudder off from impact... Now with 120 flights still going strong. So, in my experience it has worked great. I use a electric hinge slot cutter to cut out the slot for the new hinge , that may help.
Are you cutting new slots with the slot cutter or just using it to clear out the old hinge? I have used debonder to loosen up the old hinge and then taken my exacto knife to dig the old hinge out. After doing this I usually let it sit for a few days and then reglue the new hinge in the old slot, I have done this a few times and they have been holding ok. I usually let it sit for a few days before putting in the new hinge to give the debonder time to dry out so it will let the ca bond again. I know this isn't the recommended way to do it but I did it this way the first time out of ignorance and it has worked fine through many hard flights so I have continued to do so ever since with no problems. I'm not necessarily recommending this, just relating my experience as well. And I fly these things pretty hard and I fly them a lot. When the weather is good I usually log at least 150-200 flights per month and often times plenty more. As far as a large opening when clearing out the old hinge, first I use thin ca to set it in place and then fill in the gap with medium ca. But I can usually dig out the old one with the knife without making an overly large slot.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:10 AM
OOPS
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USA, GA, Cochran
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Originally Posted by rimaarts View Post
its generally not recomended to put new hinges in the old spots... i tried it couple of times and allways it seemed to pull out again...

one thing you can do is dubro epoxy hinges.... gap will be big but you can seal it! and they wont come out without half of the rudder!
I have had luck re hinging in the same spot. Just gotta be careful and take my time cleaning out old hinge and glue. I guess it depends on how the slot is once all is said and done as to whether new one is warranted
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:21 AM
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I have had luck re hinging in the same spot. Just gotta be careful and take my time cleaning out old hinge and glue. I guess it depends on how the slot is once all is said and done as to whether new one is warranted
he....its best to stick to what works for everyone...IF you clean up all old ca glue, you might be ok... and now i guess that was my problem... i didnt clean up...
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 08:41 AM
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Ive always wanted to try one of those slot cutters
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 09:21 AM
VOLTS > AMPS
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United States, MN, Buffalo
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Guys my problem is I pulled out the hinge below the elevator on the rudder so I don't have anymore room to cut a new hinge. I was going to use the solvent with a qtip and let it wick into the hinge slot and pull out the hinge. I was then going to clean up the slot with a knife.


The alternative was to heat up a knife slide it in there and pull the hinge.


Either way I need to clean out the old slot somehow.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:05 PM
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United States, FL, Winter Park
Joined May 2010
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I have done just what you are talking about- then used a 1/16" small piece of balsa to fill one side of the new hinge if it needed. It worked like a champ, and didn't cause issues with the old CA. You could even cut a slightly larger space, and use 1/8" balsa...then slot it for the hinge. It should work fine.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:28 PM
DFC~ We Do Flyin' Right
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USA, GA, Atlanta
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Anyone try fitting the Dash kit into the 60" MXS?
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 12:47 PM
Not as Good as The Kid
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South Pasadena, FL
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post
Guys my problem is I pulled out the hinge below the elevator on the rudder so I don't have anymore room to cut a new hinge. I was going to use the solvent with a qtip and let it wick into the hinge slot and pull out the hinge. I was then going to clean up the slot with a knife.


The alternative was to heat up a knife slide it in there and pull the hinge.


Either way I need to clean out the old slot somehow.
My Dremel cutting wheel is what I use to clear out the old hinge. I then work on one side at a time by add medium CA to the clean, enlarged slot, insert the new hinge -- sometimes a CA hinge and sometimes a flat nylon Dubro hinge -- and let it dry or add some kicker. I then pin it with a round toothpick. I drill a hole for the toothpick from one side, going through the hinge slot, but there is no need to go all the way through the Ultracote on the other side. Cut about an 1/8 inch of the sharp tip off the toothpick, press just a little medium CA into the drill hole and jam the toothpick in.

Regardless of how well the replacement hinge fits in the slot, it will never come out once pinned without pulling out the wood edge of either surface. Actually, the least amount of CA that wicks into the hinge, the longer it will last since it is the CA that makes it brittle. So the least amount of CA you get on the exposed hinge, the better. Since this is now virtually permanent, I usually use the nylon flat hinges for this, but the blue Radio South hinge tape is great stuff too.

Cut the toothpick off with a diagonal cutter and you can also file the edge flush with the Ultracote with a metal nail file without scratching the covering because of the way the covering is made.

BTW -- any large scale kit builders out there that are not fond of pin hinges will agree that this is the technique used to pin large control surfaces on big planes. I used ten hinges, and four toothpicks per hinge, on one aileron of my last wing assembly.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:04 PM
Not as Good as The Kid
Aeroplayin's Avatar
South Pasadena, FL
Joined Sep 2009
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I also once did a field repair at an event in Apopka, and since I had no toothpicks, I pinned the Radio South replacement hinge with a small length cut from a paper clip. The hinge is still holding the rudder on Tom's 48 Extra EXP.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:07 PM
TEAM EXTREME FLIGHT
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USA, FL, Largo
Joined Dec 2005
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I really like the Radio South hinges. They are nearly indestructable. I've had rudder strikes that have pulled hinge out (sometimes with wood attached!) and I simply pushed it back it, hit it with a drop of CA and it was fine.

The way they come, they are a little long, so you have to either clip them off or make the slots a little deeper by jamming an #11 blade all the way in. After that you simply glue them in like with any other hinge.

That, and Tony Stilman, who runs Radio South, is a good guy.
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