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RC Aerodyne Chaos 600 Pro Kit - Scorpion Edition Review

Chris Mulcahy reviews the new Chaos 600 helicopter exclusively available from R/C Aerodyne.

Splash

Introduction


Retail Price:$499.95
Blade Size:600mm
Height:15.25-16"
Length:47.25"
Pinion:15t & 16t, 6mm shaft
Gear Ratio:1:17.0:4.5/1:15.45:4.5
RTF Weight:Approx: 6.6lbs
Servos:3x Align DS610, 1x Align DS620
Gyro:JR G7703D
Transmitter:Hitec Aurora 9
Receiver:Hitec Optima 7
Battery:Zippy 6s 5000mah 40c
Motor:Scorpion HK-4025-1100KV
ESC:Castle Phoenix Ice 100
Manufacturer:Full House Heli
Available From:R/C Aerodyne

Since the introduction of the T-Rex series of helicopters, the market has been inundated with so called "clones" that usually cost significantly less than their T-Rex counterpart. The problem was distinguishing between the good and the bad. A lot of these clones used inferior grades of aluminum that couldn't stand up to the stress of today's 3D flying, as well as poorly machined components that wouldn't fit together without some modification. It would always take a few brave individuals to bite the bullet and see if they were any good, and the result is that we now have marathon threads on all of the heli forums with all the modifications and fixes that need to be done to make the machines usable. I'm happy to say that the heli in this review breaks the "clone" stereotype.

One of the newest additions to R/C Aerodyne's line up of helis are the Chaos series manufactured by Full House Heli (FHH). This particular one is the 600 size bundle, that comes with the Scorpion HK-4025-1100KV motor and Castle Phoenix Ice 100 ESC. All of the parts in this kit are interchangeable with the T-Rex 600, and the cost of the parts are about half of what you would pay for the same T-Rex part. This is not your typical low end clone; it uses 7075 grade aluminum (which is the highest grade aluminum alloy), it has precision machined parts that actually fit together without modification and a final machine that requires no upgrades to make it fly the way you want it to.

Kit Contents

The kit arrived in perfect condition, with the kit box packed into an outer shipping box. Upon opening the box you are immediately greeted by the beautifully finished fiberglass canopy, pre-painted with a really nice high gloss finish. All of the parts needed for sub assemblies are packaged into their own individually labeled poly bags, which are then referenced during the build for ease of locating. The kit also comes packaged with a really nice set of 600mm carbon fiber blades, carbon fiber tail blades, carbon fiber flybar paddles and a torque tube tail drive. The rotor head and tail section are all aluminum, as are the three main bearing blocks. The kit also includes both a 15t and 16t pinion gear.

All of the parts are of a very high quality. The aluminum parts have a very pleasing natural finish, and the carbon frames, boom, and fins were neatly machined with no signs of unfinished edges or nasty splinters. The blades and paddles looked great, with perfect finishes on everything. In fact, I was very impressed with the quality of the main blades, definitely on par with the align carbon blades. The landing gear is quite sturdy, as are the plastic molded parts.

Some of the features of Chaos 600 Pro Kit:
Carbon Fiber Frame
Pre-Painted Fiberglass Canopy
600mm Carbon Fiber Main Blades
Carbon Fiber Tail Blades
Triple-Bearing Block Main Shaft Support
Fully Driven Tail Auto Rotation System
Tail Rotor Torque Tube System
Push-Pull Control Linkage
Rear Tail Servo Mount
10mm Hollow Main Shaft
8mm Spindle
 
Kit Includes:
Chaos 600 Pro Heli
Scorpion HK-4025-1100KV Motor
Castle Phoneix ICE 100 ESC
 
Required for completion:
3x Digital Servos
Digital Tail Servo
Gyro
Receiver
Flight Battery

The review model came bundled with the Scorpion HK-4025-1100KV and Castle Phoenix Ice 100 ESC, and I will be running a 6S setup. The motor arrived in its own cool little "Scorpion" branded tin, neatly packaged in foam with a bag of miscellaneous mounting hardware and decals. The ESC came in a poly bag with instructions. Below you can also see the accessories that came with the kit. These included a blade holder, an assortment of zip ties and velcro straps, a spares bag of miscellaneous hardware, and some small bottles of thread lock and grease. Additional items provided for the review were a swash levelling tool and a ball link tool.

Assembly

Main Rotor Head

Assembly began with the main rotor head. The instructions provide exploded views of how everything goes together, with all parts clearly labeled. The sub assembly in the instructions is labeled with a number that corresponds to the poly bag in the kit that contains the parts. It was very easy to locate the parts I needed for the step on which I was working. I started out by taking apart any pre-assembled parts to make sure that every metal to metal part was thread locked, as most of the time no thread lock is present from the factory. In doing so I found that some screws had thread lock and some did not, so it always pays to check.

The head went together very quickly, and all of those nice shiny aluminum parts fit together perfectly with no slop. The kit comes with a set of hard dampers as well as a set of soft, and I opted for the hard set for 3D style flying. If I was going to use this in a scale fuselage, I would have used the softer dampers. The blade grips have a full set of bearings and thrust bearings, and I made sure the thrust bearing was well greased. The swash plate is very robust, with the center pivot ball being smooth and tight, and is configured for 120 degree ccpm. The flybar already had flat spots ground into it, and they were in line with each other, too! I always worry about pre-ground flat spots on flybars, as I have had some were the two flat spots are off center with each other, so I was glad to see that they were straight! It also helped me set up the flybar, as I could center it pretty quickly and then use a caliper to do any fine adjustments. The flybar paddles have a threaded bolt going into the root, with a couple of grub screws top and bottom to lock it in place once it's threaded on to the flybar. I followed the length suggestions in the instructions for all the pushrods and used a caliper to check all the lengths before assembly.

Tail Section

The tail section began with taking apart the assembly and thread locking it all back together. I paid particular attention to making sure the pitch slider moved freely. I detached the pitch slider links and took a fine sanding bar to them to make sure that the bushing extended slightly beyond both sides of the plastic link. I then used a toothpick to apply thread lock into the slider and was careful not to get any in between the bushing and the plastic link. The rest of the assembly was straightforward, once again making sure the thrust bearings in the tail blade grips were sufficiently greased.

The carbon fiber boom is notched to fit into the boom mount. I was concerned at flexing and possibly cracking the boom at the notch when trial fitting it into the mount, so I beveled the mount slightly with an exacto blade to help guide the boom to its home without too much flexing. I used a small amount of c/a glue to secure the bearing to the torque tube and coated the bearing holder in grease. I then used the shipping tube that the torque tube was packaged in to slide the torque tube into the boom. Final assembly involved bolting the tail hub on to the other end of the boom and making sure the tail rotor push rod moved free through the pushrod guides. The carbon fins were also bolted on and the whole unit was ready to be installed into the main frame.

Main Frames

The two carbon fiber side frames have locating holes in them for the plastic molded base plate. As I was trial fitting the parts I noticed that they didn't sit snugly. Upon closer inspection I discovered that there was some flashing left on the base plate from the molding process, and because of the tight tolerances of the carbon frames, the flash was interfering. I made a few quick cuts with an exacto blade, and the flashing was removed for a perfect tight fit. The rest of the frame components went together smoothly, and I was pleased to find that all the aluminum bellcranks moved freely without any binding after all the bolts were snugged down. There are three main bearing blocks (also aluminum) which make for a very smooth main shaft. The frames are very rigid, and care was taken to make sure that everything was square before tightening up the bolts, and I used the main shaft to make sure that the bearing blocks were aligned correctly.

At this point the forward gear box of the tail section was bolted into the side frames. This was where I encountered the only minor issue I had with the overall kit. The gearbox has four locating pegs, two on each side, that fit into holes on the side frames. I found that the upper holes were about a millimeter too high, so I took a needle file and enlarged the holes in the carbon frames so that the gear box would fit. It was a minor inconvenience, but one that was quickly taken care of. After the gearbox was mounted I secured it in place with all the cap head bolts and adjusted the horizontal fin to make sure it was square to the heli. One thing to mention is that all of the cap head bolts on the main frames have small aluminum washers included. These help spread the load, and look pretty cool too.

I attached the landing gear and used a heat gun to heat up the rubber skid stops to make them slide easily over the skid pipes. The skid pipes are held in place by grub screws which were pre-tapped into the top of the landing gear struts.

I assembled the main and autro rotation gears, using the hub that contained the heavy duty one way bearing. I then installed the rotor head into the frames and attached the main gear. The slack is taken up with a shaft collar above the top bearing block. I pulled up the main shaft so that there was no up and down play with the main gear, and tightened up the collar with the two grub screws.

Working with Carbon Fiber

Carbon fiber is nasty stuff to work with. Whenever you cut or sand c/f, make sure you protect yourself by wearing a mask, goggles, and gloves. The same applies when working with fiberglass. I keep a vacuum cleaner on hand, with the business end as close to what I'm working on as possible. This will minimize your exposure to any harmful dust, as well as keep your shop clean and tidy!

Motor Installation

The motor installation was straightforward. It is held in place by two bolts that go through the aluminum motor mounting plate. The kit comes with two pinion gears, a 15t and a 16t. After reading around the web I decided to go with the 15t pinion for my particular setup. With the main gear having 170 teeth, this gave me a gear ratio of 11.33:1. With the 1100 KV motor, I should get a max head speed of about 2150 at 100% throttle. There are some really good head speed calculators on the web to help you figure out all the numbers, just a quick google search away.

The pinion gears are made to fit a 6mm shaft, but only through about 90% of the pinion. The rest of the pinion was drilled through with a much smaller diameter hole. As I was test fitting the motor I found that the pinion gear sat too high on the Scorpion motor so that the main gear wouldn't engage correctly. I corrected this by using a 6mm drill bit in a drill press to bore out the rest of the pinion gear. I was then free to position the gear at the correct height for a perfect gear mesh. I replaced the cap head bolts that came with the motor with some slightly longer screws, and added some washers and lock washers for added security. I used a piece of paper between the gears when tightening up the motor to make sure they weren't jammed up against each other. I was then able to roll the piece of paper through the gears and end up with a corrugated piece of paper without tearing it. This told me that I had a good motor installation that should run smoothly.

The mechanics were now finished and just needed the electronics to be added. I was very pleased with how the kit went together, and I was continually impressed with the quality. The main rotor head looks like a work of art in its natural aluminum, and mechanically it works as good as it looks. Below are some photos of the finished machine prior to adding the radio gear.

Electronics Installation

The castle ICE 100 ESC comes with bare wire ends so that you can add your own connector. I use deans plugs on my batteries so I added one to the ESC. The Scorpion motor comes with bullet connectors preinstalled, and included bullet connectors for the ESC, so I soldered them on as well. I chose to use Align DS610 servos for the swash and a DS620 for the tail with a JR G7703D gyro. I'm a big fan of the Align servos; they are hard to beat for the price. I will be using my Hitec Aurora9 to fly the heli, so used an Optima 7 receiver. The heli has ample space to locate your electronics, with two addtional shelves between the base plate on the top of the tail gearbox. I used some mesh tubing to protect the wiring, and secured it all in place using the convenient holes in the frames for locating zip ties.

I then removed the head and used a swash levelling tool to set up the swash plate, re-attached the head and set up the pitch range. The head has a total range of +/- 12 degrees, and I set it up with +/- 10 degrees to begin with on pitch, with approximately 7 degrees of cyclic pitch. I use a linear pitch curve, so there was no programming to do there. I spent a good deal of time at this stage of the setup making sure all the push rods are 90 degrees to the servos etc, so that the model doesn't develop any strange flying habits later on. The canopy is held on with two grommets on the "ears" of the canopy that slot onto mounting pegs from the side frames. It simply hooks under the battery tray, and attaches at the gromets. No modification was needed on the canopy, and it had a good tight fit.

I wasn't happy with the supplied ball links for the servo wheels. They are self tapping and were to be used in servo wheels that are designed to have the type of ball links with a nut on the back. I got around this by filling the void on the servo wheel (where the nut would normally go) with epoxy after screwing the self tapping ball links in place.

A futher note on the Phoenix ICE 100 ESC: While the claimed BEC output is 5 amps up to 8S, I discovered through some online research that when using a 6S pack your are realistically only getting 3 amps at best. I then found a case where someone used a similar setup to mine and was getting brown outs on the optima receiver. So I decided to run a 2S 2100mah Life battery into the receiver and eliminate the built in BEC on the ICE 100 by removing the red wire from the throttle plug. I chose the Life battery because it is rated at 6.6v unregulated, and I could plug it straight into my receiver. Another option would have been to run a power line direct from the main flight battery into the SPC port on the receiver (in addition to the BEC), which I will try out some time in the future. I've also ordered the programming card for the Castle ESC, so that I can post up some of the data graphs showing how the ESC is performing.

I set up 4 flight conditions on the Aurora9; Normal, Idleup1, Idleup2, & Hold. For the throttle curve in normal mode I programmed 0,35,45,65,67,78,100, and in the idle-up modes I programmed 100,85,100. I will end up tweaking these out at the flying field, but according to the head speed calculator that I used I should get around 2100 in idle-up. I've kept the second Idle-up mode the same as the first for now, but will tweak it to suit my flying as I get more time on the machine.

The final weight (with the added 2S 2100 mah LIFE receiver battery) was 6lbs 9oz. The largest of the flight batteries I use weighs 1lb 15oz. This gave me a ready to fly weight of 8lbs 8oz.

Flying

Basics

I had charged my batteries up the night before, and topped them off before heading out the flying field. I had two 5000mah 40c 6s packs, and two 3700mah 35c 6S packs. Once I got to the field I started out by range checking the new heli and double checking that everything was moving in the correct direction. I then performed a series of short hops to get the gyro dialed in. I initially had the gyro gain set to 75% in the Aurora9's gyro menu, but found that it was way too high and had to dial it down to around 20%. I'm still getting used to how the Aurora 9's settings affect the gyro, because it is so completely different from my 9303. After setting the gyro, everything looked great so I went for the first flight.

Taking Off and Landing

Bringing the Chaos 600 up to a hover was uneventful. The tail held extremely well against the 15mph gusts, and the machine had an almost 90 size feel to how smoothly it handled. I performed a number of pirouettes in both directions, and found the tail to be setup extremely well. The pirouette speed was constant in either direction, and the tail stopped without any bouncing. Transitioning from forward flight into a hover for landing was also very smooth. The heli didn't seem to have any strange habits, and the smooth feel of the machine made me feel comfortable with it very quickly. The throttle curve I had set up for the normal flight condition worked well, and there was no wagging or nodding in the machine, and the idle up throttle curve performed as expected.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

Switching into the idle up flight condition brings the machine alive, and it wasn't long before I was performing roles and flips. At first the machine seemed a little mushy, and I realized that it was because I had set up way too much expo on the aileron and elevator channels. I dialed it back and the Chaos really came alive. I also added 10% to my aileron and elevator swash mix to give me more cyclic throw. The pre-painted canopy is very bright in the air, which made for easy orientation. Fast forward flight showed no signs of ballooning, and the heli tracked like it was on a rail. Rolls were extremely axial, and flips were straight with no wandering of the tail. The G7703D gyro did an excellent job of holding the tail straight when flying backward, as well as when flying backward inverted. Inverted flight showed the same smooth characteristics as right side up, and again, it wasn't long before I had it close to cutting the grass! Everywhere I pointed the heli it went without argument or surprising me with strange habits. The Scorpion motor showed no signs of slowing down regardless of how I was flying it, and I was pleasantly surprised to find that both the battery pack and ESC were extremely cool to the touch after each flight. I performed some fairly low autorotations, and found that it behaved much like any other 50 size heli (zero pitch, point it at the deck, and get it down fast!). I had initially programmed a linear pitch curve, and discovered that an "s" curve was more to my liking as it gave more pitch around mid stick without losing the smooth feel.

I flew several flights on the heli, getting more comfortable with each flight. I flew the 5000mah packs with a 5 minute timer, and put about 2500mah back in when charging them again. The 3700mah packs I flew with a 4 minute timer, also with about 2500mah put back in. The punch out on the 5000mah 40c was impressive, and it seemed the 3700mah 35c packs had about the same amount of authority. The 3700mah packs are about 6oz lighter than the 5000. The 2 cell 2100mah Life receiver battery required only 377mah to be put back in after four 5 minute flights.

Is This For a Beginner?

If you are learning to fly at a club with experienced flyers, then you can absolutely use this to learn with. You can dial down the "wild" side of this heli, install the softer dampers, and attach some training landing gear to end up with a very stable machine to learn to hover with. Beacause of its size you will have less issues with wind, and it is a lot more stable in the air than helicopters half its size.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

Downloads

Conclusion

I thoroughly enjoyed building, setting up, and flying the Chaos 600. Having worked on other clones in the past, it was nice to have quality machined aluminum parts that fit well together, performing exactly as they should. Overall, the high quality of all the components, and smooth flying characteristics, make this a winner. Its a looker too, and got lots of attention at the field! I can definititely see using this in a scale application as well, although I will be tweaking mine for 3D (for when my thumbs thaw out!). I am looking forward to the upcoming flying season and getting to know the Chaos better. I have a feeling the Chaos will be in my hangar for a long time!

Pros:

  • Excellent Quality
  • Smooth Flying Characteristics
  • Good price and parts availability

Cons:

  • No instruction manual in the box (available on web site)
  • Minor modification needed to side frames
Last edited by Angela H; Feb 21, 2011 at 11:46 AM..

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Old Feb 21, 2011, 12:57 PM
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CSpaced's Avatar
Oak Ridge, NC
Joined Jun 2006
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I've attached some in-flight pictures, and will post a newer video up here once its done uploading.

*edit* This is a newer video after a dozen flights.

R/C Aerodyne Chaos 600 Pro (7 min 9 sec)
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 02:05 PM
Heli of a man
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Very nice Thread. Enjoyable to read

Have always told beginers that a big heli will do just fine if you have a good sim and know the dangers of helis.
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 02:26 PM
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other than retail was that the price it goes for at the hobby shops or is it less? oh and the review was really good and informative plus the flight vids great work. you caught my interest. peace out
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 02:34 PM
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Big Ed, heres the link to all the prices on the Chaos lineup from RCAerodyne:
http://www.scaleflying.com/Chaos-Helicopters_c_222.html


Great review CSpaced!!!

Matt
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigednyc View Post
other than retail was that the price it goes for at the hobby shops or is it less? oh and the review was really good and informative plus the flight vids great work. you caught my interest. peace out
As far as I know they are only available directly from R/C Aerodyne, and are not carried in stores.

The 600 size starts at $269.95 and goes up depending on which options you go with. They also have the Chaos available in a 450 and 500 size.
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 03:00 PM
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I forgot to add that since completing the review, R/C Aerodyne has started to include a free nano gyro in their Chaos kits. You can check out the specs at the link below.

http://www.scaleflying.com/Nano-Gyro...Up_p_1851.html
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enguneer View Post
Very nice Thread. Enjoyable to read
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigednyc View Post
oh and the review was really good and informative plus the flight vids great work. you caught my interest. peace out
Quote:
Originally Posted by webdr View Post
Great review CSpaced!!!

Matt
Thanks guys!
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 04:58 PM
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CSpaced,

Excellent review, and I liked the tip you gave on the pitch slider, about sanding down the plastic links. Also, beveling the boom mount. I ordered the Chaos 450 a few days ago and am anxiously awaiting it's arrival.

Dave
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by choppersrule View Post
CSpaced,

Excellent review, and I liked the tip you gave on the pitch slider, about sanding down the plastic links. Also, beveling the boom mount. I ordered the Chaos 450 a few days ago and am anxiously awaiting it's arrival.

Dave
Thanks Dave, maybe you could post up some photos of your 450 when you get it so we can check it out?
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CSpaced View Post
Thanks Dave, maybe you could post up some photos of your 450 when you get it so we can check it out?
CSpaced,

Will do for sure. I'm thinking Wednesday or Thursday delivery.

Dave
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 05:40 PM
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Dave. Do a unboxing video, that would be cool, If your up to it

K2
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 06:35 PM
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K2 / Enguneer,

Sorry, I don't have a video camera.

Dave aka Cheap One
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 07:51 PM
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wonderful review! I ordered mine about a month ago along with all the electronics. still waiting to get home from Iraq to start the build! I went with hyperion servos all around (great specs and great price), zippy/turnigy 4S 3000mah 4S 40C packs to run in 8S, turnigy motor and turnigy superbrain esc (which HK forgot to send in my order). I'll have everything I need when I get home except my rx, esc and gyro. RCA is a great company and Cliff has been great with customer support. A+ for RCA!

Brandon
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Old Feb 21, 2011, 09:33 PM
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Thanks Brandon, sounds like you will have a good setup. Post up some photos if you get the chance, and thanks for the work you are doing to keep the rest of us all safe!
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