|Jan 05, 2011, 06:24 AM|
One problem is the original inaccuracy of these old plans -
but as I´m building a fantasy ship I only need to take care
for harmonic hull lines, not for preciseness of +/- 0.5 mm or so.
Cutting the stern to proper angle:
|Jan 05, 2011, 07:54 AM|
Stern template cutted
First pieces of timber?
No - thats just my floor.
Foam Stern sanded straight after cutting and templates glued on -
with doublesided tape again.
As said before, I´m an impatient man -
I hate to wait untill any glue has cured.
|Jan 05, 2011, 09:19 AM|
|Feb 13, 2011, 06:44 AM|
Still not satified
Quite interesting -
I found it easier to sand this wide hull when it stands vertical like in the first pics. Its easier like this, as I can turn it around like I want to and just from the light coming in through the window it of course develops its own shadow(s) -
telling me where I have to do some more fairing.
There are still some bumps/kinks (or whatever you might call it), that need to be smoothed out. Sometimes its also good, just to sit down and look at the hull from different angles - like in the last pics.
Actually I don´t like the "pinky" color of the foam at all. Can´t wait to see this shape in a "good and shiplike" color!
On the other hand the slight color difference between 8cm foam and 6cm foam helps me to determine the proper cross section shapes.
"Lighter pink and darker pink" - *ARGL* - I HATE those tussicolors! -
(As disgusting as having to touch Paris Hilton !!!)
This plug is 99cm high/long now, the three forward cross sections are still missing.
For now I have one section forward of the mainframe and six aftward sections glued together - 10 sections of 14 cm overall. But it could as well be that I take off the two mainsections again, to fit and shape the forward sections seperately -
and glue them onto the aftward part later on.
Thats the main advantage of using doublesided selfadhesive tape, instead of some kind of glue to fit the sections together for "eternity". And as this tape isn´t hard, it doesn´t disturb me during the sanding/fairing process either.
One more thing:
This whole (big) block has only 3.10 kgs for now!
Really easy to handle and turn it around to whatever position I might want/need to.
And when I´m done with sanding/fairing the whole thing, I simply will glue it onto my building table (again with doublesided tape) - so it doesn´t move - and laminate it completely in one step.
All five or six seamless layers of fibreglass in one workingstep.
|Feb 13, 2011, 12:42 PM|
Joined Feb 2007
never mind pink...
having two different colours certainly helps spatial perception, whereas light coloutrs show uneven surfaces better in good light (shadows!). White would glare...
So probably you couldn't have done better than pink for practical purposes.
There used to be a pink submarine in an old Hollywood movie...
so much for precedent!
|Mar 15, 2011, 09:39 AM|
Update for the planning!
You´ll never expect how much planningtime is necessary for such a project.
As you can see the planned new rigging is much higher and has a lot more sailarea than the original one of the "Roter Löwe" - "Red Lion".
But as I´m planning to use an extended fin keel with a heavy lead bulb, this should be workable.
I just follow my own fantasy -...- whereever it may take me.
|Mar 15, 2011, 10:28 AM|
You may want to study where the center of effort of your alternate sailplan falls in relation to the center of lateral plane of your hull with the fin - you'll probably have to put the fin somewhere different that you originally planned to get things balanced again.
|Mar 15, 2011, 11:11 AM|
No Jerry, I don´t think I will "study" that - it probably will be more of the try & error type -...- but I´m still on a long way untill I`ll reach that point.
So many things to do, to decide, to sand and laminate in between, before the empty fibreglass-hull shell will hit the water for the first time.
And a lot of pics to show to make you know how I´ll do it:
|Mar 16, 2011, 03:05 AM|
Next thing to do -
- is to cut out the three remaining cross sections (42 cm) and "add it up" to the allready exsting hull.
But in order to get the bowcurve correct/precise, this time I need to make a cardboard template first.
Pics will follow.
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