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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:02 AM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
United States, NY, St Lawrence
Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I'll stick with onboard glow.
Probably because you've never tried C&H CDI.

I went through OBG when I was having idle issues W/Saito FA150.

The FA150 was mounted on a Sr Telemaster & at normal idle speeds, the plane was hard to land, It just wanted to keep flying.

OBG didn't help much, but CDI lowered dependable idle by about 300 RPM.

I soon noticed the increased fuel economy & this spring I started doing tests for maximum RPM, lowest dependable idle & run time @ WOT on a given fuel load.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1774802

CDI gives one the opportunity to adjust the ignition timing since the ignition event timing is no longer affected by ambient temperture, nitro content, compression ratio, etc as it would be W.glow ignition.

It opens a whole new world of performance tuning & on larger displacement engines, the extra $50 over the cost of OBG soon pays for itself..

With glow ignition, the project linked below project would never have been possible. The engine was too tempermental W/glow ignition & had a nasty habit of throwing props when transitioning to WOT.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1754616

The added flexibility of CDI allowed HP output to be increaesd from 2.8HP to 4HP in a glow fuel powered Saito FA180. That's a 43% increase in HP W/O an increase in engine displacement/physical size.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1769449

Here are some You Tube clips of a few of my CDI converted Saito engines still using glow fuel.

FA180HC Video 0001 (4 min 36 sec)


Saito 300 Twin With C&H Ignition, 800 RPM Idle (8 min 9 sec)
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:11 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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Please take this discussion to another thread.

This one is about the Sig Spacewalker, not ignition systems for glow engines.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:32 AM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
Please take this discussion to another thread.

This one is about the Sig Spacewalker, not ignition systems for glow engines.
and I certainly would not take the risks this fellow is taking in the way he is handling his rpm readings.

I would stay behind this prop.

I also wonder why use glow fuel at 4 or 5 times the cost of gasoline once spark ignition is installed ?
I can understand the idea of experimenting but not for constant usage.

Zor
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Last edited by Zor; Jan 11, 2013 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Changed "4 o 5" to "4 or 5"
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:07 PM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
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Both of you. Please take this discussion elsewhere.
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Last edited by TomCrump; Jan 11, 2013 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:10 PM
Registered User
United States, MD, Frostburg
Joined Aug 2008
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Hey Tom...I hope this is on topic, but are there any differences between the 1/3 and 1/4 SIG SW kit? I have the 1/4 waiting to be built one day but have often thought of selling it to pick up a 1/3...
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 12:48 PM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
Joined Dec 2005
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Aaron There may be a few differences, but the two kits go together basically the same.

The 1/3 has a 3 piece wing, and the 1/4 wing builds into a one piece, making it marginally easier to build.

The 1/4 scale flies very well I'm sure that my 1/3 scale will fly just as good.

If possible, you may want to consider building both versions.

If I had to choose just one, I'd pick the 1/3 because the 3 piece wing allows the fuselage to stand on it's feet, during storage and transportation.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 04:21 AM
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Sweden, Dalarna County, Aspeboda
Joined Dec 2005
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Tom,

I must say that your build thread with all the pictures is a big help to me. Right now doing the right winghalf. I realize that the front sheeting provided is too short and I have to add fro my storage, 2mm instad of the recommended 2.3, dont think it will have any impact on the model.
You said that you had to add some missing balsa, maybe it's the same thing?!

(by the way, it's now 10.21am here, 7 hours difference).

/krokko
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 06:51 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
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I don't remember any incorrect balsa sizes, just some missing pieces..

My kit was quite old when I got it. There was plenty of time for things to get lost.
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 02:15 AM
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Sweden, Dalarna County, Aspeboda
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Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I don't remember any incorrect balsa sizes, just some missing pieces..

My kit was quite old when I got it. There was plenty of time for things to get lost.
Tom,

Yes I can see that I got a new laser-cut kit. top quality on all mtrl!

/krokko
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 11:01 AM
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A long journey..........

starts with a first step.......
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Last edited by krokko; Jan 15, 2013 at 11:03 AM. Reason: wrong - should be the right half. sorry!
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Old Jan 15, 2013, 11:56 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
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Looking good, krokko.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 01:06 AM
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Sweden, Dalarna County, Aspeboda
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Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
Those are the stands that I made, when we painted the 1/4 scale SW, Don.

Yes, my fingers are red.

After a couple hours, I pulled the masking tape.
Tom,

what kind of paint are you using?

/krokko
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 08:01 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
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I use Rustoleum (Stops Rust).Enamel. It's a low cost, general purpose paint, that is easily available over here. http://www.thepaintstore.com/Stops_Rust_s/236.htm

I use my HVLP gun to spray, but I also use spray cans for to paint smaller pieces.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 02:25 AM
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Sweden, Dalarna County, Aspeboda
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Originally Posted by TomCrump View Post
I use Rustoleum (Stops Rust).Enamel. It's a low cost, general purpose paint, that is easily available over here. http://www.thepaintstore.com/Stops_Rust_s/236.htm

I use my HVLP gun to spray, but I also use spray cans for to paint smaller pieces.
believe it or not, I found the Rustoleum combicolor here as well!! will start with the primer for a test.

/krokko
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:50 AM
ARFs Are Me
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Traverse City, Michigan
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I'm glad that you found Rustoleum. It is an "inexpensive" paint. My complete paint job cost less tham $60.00,

I only prime sheeted areas, never open bays. Primer may crack, because of it's high solids content.

I use sandable, lacquer based, automotive primers.
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