Thanks Tom, I appreciate your response. Now you've got me thinking that the 1.60 may be too much overkill. I have a yet to be flown by me Sig 1/4 scale Piper Cub that has a brand new YS 1.20 four stroke in it. Maybe I should put my 1.60 OS in that and move the YS over to the Space Walker. Anyway, I had a nice time reading your thread and it reminded me of a time when I actually built my planes in the late 70's and early 80's. Raising a family kept me out of the hobby until last year and now that I'm back I'm still too busy to build but do enjoy threads such as yours. Thanks again, Randy

Give that 1.60 a shot in your SW. Most likely, you'll be able to fly at very low throttle settings. That ain't all bad, as that twin will sound like a Harley as you fly by.

I would suggest that you use an onboard glow unit, like the ones from Electro Dynamics. http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-103/index.shtml

I have the trwin cylinder unit on my 1.60. It's easy to install and set up, and it works flawlessly.

Thanks Tom, I appreciate all your help, take care, Randy

Originally Posted by TomCrump

Give that 1.60 a shot in your SW. Most likely, you'll be able to fly at very low throttle settings. That ain't all bad, as that twin will sound like a Harley as you fly by.

I would suggest that you use an onboard glow unit, like the ones from Electro Dynamics. http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-103/index.shtml

I have the trwin cylinder unit on my 1.60. It's easy to install and set up, and it works flawlessly.

Hi Tom
I have been reading thru your thread and find it very useful for my SW 1/3 build, which I started yesterday!
I'm also retired so there is plenty of time to spend in the shop. Latest was the Flair Tiger Moth 1/4 scale. (there is a thread on that one in RCGroups). So far I think that the quality of the SIG kit is much better then the Flair was. For instance I got 1:1 drawings with the SIG, xerox copied A3 instructions with the Flair!

OK, to my questions:

I see that you tapped the alu wing holders both up and below, isn't it enough with only below?

I plan to put a 33cc Mintor on the SW, any comments on that one?

I love all your pictures in the thread, haven't seen any maiden video yet? Maybe I missed something!

rgds/krokko

No, you haven't missed the maiden. LOL

I drilled/tapped my wing retainers from both sides. In reality, doing so from one side should be adequate. I suggest doing so from the top, however. It'll make the model easier to assemble at the field.

The Mintor should be adequate power on the 1/3 scale SW, but I would assume that you will need to ad nose weight. I used a Sachs 4.2 in mine, and it required some ballast in the nose.

Please start a thread on your SW build. They seem to attract a following.

If you do, post the link here.

Originally Posted by TomCrump

No, you haven't missed the maiden. LOL

I drilled/tapped my wing retainers from both sides. In reality, doing so from one side should be adequate. I suggest doing so from the top, however. It'll make the model easier to assemble at the field.

The Mintor should be adequate power on the 1/3 scale SW, but I would assume that you will need to ad nose weight. I used a Sachs 4.2 in mine, and it required some ballast in the nose.

Please start a thread on your SW build. They seem to attract a following.

If you do, post the link here.

Hmmmm, the engine. measured distances today, if I use my ZDZ50NG I need to cut the nose a bit, no problem, just need doing. The Mintor fit as the plan. ZDZ more power, Mintor less power, so why use the Mintor?? I could save money on less lead by the ZDZ, LOL.

Normally I always overpower my planes.

This time I'm confused!

About another thread: I don't think I can add much to your existing one.

rgds/krokko

We all have insights. I'm sure that you could add something to what's been posted.

If it were me, I'd go with the ZDZ. Lay it over your plans. The cowl may turn out to be long enough to work for you. If not, maybe you could extend the sheeting, up front, just enough to make it work, without modifying the engine box.

I don't like to over power my models, but I do prefer to make my life easy. The larger engine should simplify any balance issues, besides providing any extra power that you may desire.

In this pic, you can see that my cowl has some extra length to it. This may provide you with the length you need top line everything up.

Originally Posted by TomCrump

In this pic, you can see that my cowl has some extra length to it. This may provide you with the length you need top line everything up.

The ZDZ requires 190mm from firewall to back of prop. After measuring I still have approx 35mm on the good side of the cowl. So it's doable without carving or redoing the firewall.

OK, I'll try and fit the ZDZ. Just because you suggested it, your fault if I crash!! LOL
(I'm sure that the power is going to be enough)!

/krokko

Happy New Year guys.

Tom, are you building another airplane this winter??

I hope they all fly next summer

If Tom could fly all the planes he have to in one season, summer would need to take a little longer!!!


I could give a hand....

Originally Posted by Wilian Amaral

If Tom could fly all the planes he have to in one season, summer would need to take a little longer!!!


I could give a hand....

O Boy!!

rgds/krokko

I'm trying to sell, no interest!!

LOL

Steve, I'm repairing my GP .60 size Super Sportster. I'm not doing anything interesting.

As Wil says, I have plenty to fly. I think that I have five airframes that need to be maidened.

Originally Posted by TomCrump

Give that 1.60 a shot in your SW. Most likely, you'll be able to fly at very low throttle settings. That ain't all bad, as that twin will sound like a Harley as you fly by.

I would suggest that you use an onboard glow unit, like the ones from Electro Dynamics. http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-103/index.shtml

I have the trwin cylinder unit on my 1.60. It's easy to install and set up, and it works flawlessly.

Spend a little more for C&H CDI & ditch glow ignition, at least on the twin.

CDI W/glow fuel makes 5-6% more power, runs about 25% longer on a given fuel load, gives lower reliable idle speeds & easier flip staring. With the required battery packs, CDI will weigh slightly less & take up less room.

I'll stick with onboard glow.