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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:45 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Hi Integrity,

Is there a possibility to chat on skype/gtalk or something? I have all the stuff but it seems i am unable to figure it out.

This is what i am trying:
Bearing: 1 & 2 (both are same) will go: In front of the blade grip (the edge that touches the head) and will also go from the other side, where we put in blades, am i right? (i tried this and am unable to put the bearings from the blade side)

If not, then i also tried putting bearing number 1 in front of the grip i.e. the side which touches the head and bearing number 5 from behind (the side that holds the blades), but when i try this, the FS is unable to go in the bearing hole and thus its not fitting in properly.
I can maybe setup skype or something later, i honestly have never used them. But i edited my last post, not thinking you would see that quickly. Are you using the right FS? Let me check something out on my heli & parts and i'll post back a little bit later.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:47 AM
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i am using the D02s FS itself, but am unable to put the bearing which needs to go from the side where we put blades. Is it REALLY tight?
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Ok, am waiting to hear from you and yes, skype will help as i will be able to show you the heli and parts in real time ... so if you can set it up, do let me know.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:27 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Ok, am waiting to hear from you and yes, skype will help as i will be able to show you the heli and parts in real time ... so if you can set it up, do let me know.
Okay, i looked at what i had left over from my upgrade. There is 6 total bearings in the -19 bearing pack, correct? I am left with only 2 after the upgrade. I think they are for the tail drive shaft. So, if the bearings you are using fit in the back (rotor head side) they will also fit into the front (blade side).


I shot a quick video to show how do it, mine are already loose from being inserted. Also, try both grips, if you have not already. Because they are plastic, just make sure there is no extra material in the way or a deformation in the plastic. Otherwise, like i said. If it fit the back, it should fit in the front too. Just force it in there (i'll spare you the jokes, but all the pieces are there for you ) using evenly applied pressure. So you want to use a tool that can let you adjust the bearings "level" or angle while you press. So you can press evenly on the bearing.


V120D02S - Pressing Blade Grip bearings (1 min 40 sec)
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Thanks, this is very helpful, will try this out and get back ...
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Hi, The video was perfect, I have reached to the point where the main gear is drilled, servo links replaced, and links rods are attached (all minus 1) as one link rod came damaged. Will have to order a new set and try to use CA on the damaged rod to see if I can at least test other things...

Shall keep you posted, things are coming together nicely...
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Hi, The video was perfect, I have reached to the point where the main gear is drilled, servo links replaced, and links rods are attached (all minus 1) as one link rod came damaged. Will have to order a new set and try to use CA on the damaged rod to see if I can at least test other things...

Shall keep you posted, things are coming together nicely...
Yes, i have had a few sets of linkages from Jade store come defective. The defect was in the threads on the link rod. The end of the threads was not left open or the threads were not cut correctly, so the plastic part would not screw down. I managed to force some on and CA them. I'm sure if you message Terrence he would compensate you for it or something. I just never bothered being the distance and low cost of the item. I just order 2-3 sets at a time now just to be sure i have a good full set. What did you end up using to shim the D02S main shaft bearing in the airframe?

You might want to find a little washer to set under the metal gear cap. One with an inside diameter about the same size as the nipple on the gear cap. The gear cap is meant to work as both a shim and a bushing for the bottom MS bearing. So adding the washer will prevent the nipple on the now drilled out cap from, basically, disintegrating after 10-20 flights. I'm exaggerating, but the worn off nipple will create play in the main shaft which will cause some delay and weird pitch response sometimes. Mostly in 3D. I'm sure pictures are in my build log for that too, somewhere.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Integrity Handiwork Build Log Update (09-21-12)

Okay, i updated the build log some. Nothing to fancy, just added some links in the first post to make things a bit easier to find and know what is all in the thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post21925046


The most important thing people might be interested in is the flight testing for the new motor. Results are very good!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2#post22800811
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 10:41 PM
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I just got some .32mm copper wire for a main gear sheer pin. This copper is a bit more solid feeling and a bit harder to bend than the aluminum. I'm hoping it will hold better on flips and not break on me but still sheer off in a crash. Time will tell but so far I have good feeling it's going to work.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Travis MCH View Post
I just got some .32mm copper wire for a main gear sheer pin. This copper is a bit more solid feeling and a bit harder to bend than the aluminum. I'm hoping it will hold better on flips and not break on me but still sheer off in a crash. Time will tell but so far I have good feeling it's going to work.
The 22 AWG has been working fine for me with the HP08-S. Crashed it today even. The video in the link, in the post above about the motor was flown using the copper sheer pin. Take a look, it was fairly aggressive. I later crashed and it sheered very easily. On a tall blade of grass! I heard it break loose even. It was not the kind of grass a plastic blade would have been able to cut though. Maybe a bigger heli would have. But it held up though a few packs before that happened.

I'm willing to bet though, if the TH button was turned off while ST-2 was on. The initial torque of startup will sheer the pin, most likely. I always back spin my main rotor before startup to eliminate the play in between the shaft and the pin. Once the rotor reaches velocity everything should hold fine, hopefully you don't end up having any throttle cuts while flying.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 01:51 AM
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Hi Guys .... the mod went very good

The heli is flying good, crashed it a couple of times already and the new FS and MS are still rock solid, am having a very good feeling about this heli now. Still havnt used the xtreme landing gear, so flying without the canopy

Will put on the new landing gear soon and hook up the canopy, but seems that the hp motor being larger is going to hit the canopy....how is your new motor with the canopy?
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 09:08 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Hi Guys .... the mod went very good

The heli is flying good, crashed it a couple of times already and the new FS and MS are still rock solid, am having a very good feeling about this heli now. Still havnt used the xtreme landing gear, so flying without the canopy

Will put on the new landing gear soon and hook up the canopy, but seems that the hp motor being larger is going to hit the canopy....how is your new motor with the canopy?
It's better than the 215, which is wider instead of taller like the hp08-S. But i have some cuts in the side of my canopy from crashing and the motor rubbing through the canopy. Still flies fine though lol.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 09:13 PM
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I'm still using the 215-T in both my D05's. I've got some motor rub marks on the canopy but nothing bad. If I slide the holder rod over a bit it does not rub at all.
I've had really good luck with the 32mm copper sheer pine wire. Holds well with 3-D and sheers off when I need it. Out with the aluminum, in with the copper. A $3 sample pice will last me a long time.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Travis MCH View Post
I'm still using the 215-T in both my D05's. I've got some motor rub marks on the canopy but nothing bad. If I slide the holder rod over a bit it does not rub at all.
I've had really good luck with the 32mm copper sheer pine wire. Holds well with 3-D and sheers off when I need it. Out with the aluminum, in with the copper. A $3 sample pice will last me a long time.
I think you mean 0.32mm? Anyway, yeah i forgot to mention, when i first get my canopies i line the inside with a little scotch or packing tape. I put a piece of electrical tape behind the motor to protect the canopy in crashes. So it didn't rub though. But it's rubbed though that and the canopy in 2 different places. I really need a new canopy, but i can't see putting a new on on when i still crash Maybe soon though.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 01:33 AM
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I am crashing this heli left, right and center, just because i can

Actually while learning side orientations, i am pretty good on the sim, but am unable to control the heli in real life ... lets see when i will be able to pull it off, btw you may want to check this video of me flying the 450:

First feild flight (2 min 16 sec)
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