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Old Aug 13, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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I know this will sound dumb to you guys but I have got in a real muddle over this.

I have just fitted a new RX 2615V.

I need to know this, so I have a base line.

Which servo plugs go to which socket on the RX.

Looking from the top of the three servos which servo does which function.

I have tried plugging them in to see but I think the revers or other 2801 setting are wrong so I just want to start right again from the beginning.

Thanks
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 03:58 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohioshooter View Post
I know this will sound dumb to you guys but I have got in a real muddle over this.

I have just fitted a new RX 2615V.

I need to know this, so I have a base line.

Which servo plugs go to which socket on the RX.

Looking from the top of the three servos which servo does which function.

I have tried plugging them in to see but I think the revers or other 2801 setting are wrong so I just want to start right again from the beginning.

Thanks
I might be wrong, just going from memory here.

If you were sitting in the "cockpit" the left one is Pitch, right is aileron and the one by it's self is the Elevator. But to get pitch to work properly you might have to reverse the pitch and aileron wires. Just plug them all in and make sure your swash is moving properly.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:03 PM
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Thanks..I will try again

The problem seems to be that the Aileron does not move it tends to jump to its top position and stay there.
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 10:34 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohioshooter View Post
Thanks..I will try again

The problem seems to be that the Aileron does not move it tends to jump to its top position and stay there.

Sounds like it's stripped. You might need to replace the gears or the whole servo. Not sure, hard to say.


Another flight video:
V120D05CS-Sport - 3D flight with Extreme Spin 16,300 motor (5 min 8 sec)
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Old Aug 13, 2012, 11:27 PM
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problem solved...........plugs not fully in place and servo setting wrong in the 2801.

now if i get the patch sorted out all will be ok....G

Just to make you smile...I have now got a trex 450FBL which I can hover safely

A V911 that is quite easy top fly around the house and a blade msrx and seems to be very docile.

A 4g3 that is getting rebuilt as it has a mind of its own.

The dear old v120d05 seems to want to disown me perhaps i should sell it....G
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 07:46 PM
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United States, TX, New Braunfels
Joined May 2011
489 Posts
Ohio Shooter,

The D05 is a great heli but only when set up with the right parts. Try the RX2622 from the V120D02s 3 axis version. Then use the V120D02s main shaft and complete head set up. You will need to drill the main gear hole larger to accept the larger shaft but it's not hard to do. Then get the turbo ace 215-T brushless outrunner motor and you are done.
Adjust the blade pitch/tracking to dead zero with the RX turned on and throttle hold off. Adjust your gyro pot to about 9:45 or 10:00 and then go out and fly. Your heli will perform better than you ever expected it could.
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Old Aug 14, 2012, 09:47 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohioshooter View Post
problem solved...........plugs not fully in place and servo setting wrong in the 2801.

now if i get the patch sorted out all will be ok....G

Just to make you smile...I have now got a trex 450FBL which I can hover safely

A V911 that is quite easy top fly around the house and a blade msrx and seems to be very docile.

A 4g3 that is getting rebuilt as it has a mind of its own.

The dear old v120d05 seems to want to disown me perhaps i should sell it....G
I agree with Travis. the D05 needs a lot of work and the RX upgrade is needed at the very least!! if your not crashing and basic flight is all your doing. Well you might be able to hold out with the stock rotor head and shaft for a while. But the D02S rotor head assembly is part of what upgrades the D05 into a flyable helicopter. Without the 2622V RX it's a lost cause though. But with both you get a smooth, stable, 3d capable flight with no more swash lock on the stabilizer, no more exploding stabilizer. Plus the shafts can take a few hits on concrete and fly away.

The WLtoys v911 is an AWSOME FP heli! I really miss mine for flying around the house! It was awesome. But i lost it as the day turned to night and the wind took it. About a month later the landscapers saw me flying there and gave it back to me! I had thought i sunk it in the lake but it was laying on the lake bank! He even ran it over with the mower but it didn't get sucked up! It was in one piece but not functional. Check it out: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=6266

Now about that 450FBL... does that have a belt drive tail? I don't think i like the 450 pro because of the TT tail. I don't want to have to buy a heli then upgrade it to FBL too... so how did that work, i think a FBL is available as a kit now? i really wish i didn't get my v450d01 thats for sure.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:04 AM
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Hi,

just got my v120d05 yesterday, and it seems like it was a mistake Its hard to even lift this heli off from the ground without loosing the tail lock.

And if I try to increase the throttle a little quickly, the tail looses its hold. I am still very new and trying to learn orientations, so I think I can live with this heli for a while.

However, I had a question, I read that changing the motor to a better one, will fix a lot of things:
What about this motor here:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ade_mCPx_.html

Currently the heli came with:
Wk-ws-15-001 motor, 20a (1s esc) and 2615v rx.

Would I need the 2622 rx or this one is ok? Honestly, I am trying to spend as little as possible to make it work as it should.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 12:29 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Hi,

just got my v120d05 yesterday, and it seems like it was a mistake Its hard to even lift this heli off from the ground without loosing the tail lock.

And if I try to increase the throttle a little quickly, the tail looses its hold. I am still very new and trying to learn orientations, so I think I can live with this heli for a while.

However, I had a question, I read that changing the motor to a better one, will fix a lot of things:
What about this motor here:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ade_mCPx_.html

Currently the heli came with:
Wk-ws-15-001 motor, 20a (1s esc) and 2615v rx.

Would I need the 2622 rx or this one is ok? Honestly, I am trying to spend as little as possible to make it work as it should.
First of all, yes, I highly recommend the 2622V over the 2615V. It will be more stable and hold the tail better.

That motor would not be a upgrade. The stock motor is actually decent. But the heli is problematic. Your looking for 15000kv or higher. For the time being you can adjust your throttle settings in your TX to be higher. Gyro hold could be adjusted higher too. For normal mode you want to have your throttle at like 80% in the middle. so for 2801-pro the throttle curves should be like the following:

Normal mode: 0 - 35 - 80 - 100 - 100 or even as much as 0 - 40 - 90 - 100 - 100
St-1: 100 - 100 - 100 - 100 - 100
St-2: 100 - 100 - 100 - 100 - 100

That should pick up your head speed some and balance out the weight. If your mechanics are not setup properly this helicopter could be a real pain. The rudder ext pot on the RX needs to be adjusted so that the slider on the tail moves fully back and forth as far as possible without pressing against the sides! That will wear out your servo! I don't know how much you know about these things. But It does need to be set correctly, and not every helicopter comes setup well. For your gyro hold setting on the TX. You can go up to like 90% but if your tail starts wobbling or doing weird things, back it back down. Hope this info helps..


For upgrade motors, I would also do that to make this heli fly much nicer. The turbo ace 215 motor is really the best motor available that i have used so far. But the extreme spin motor is also very good. You want a motor that has at least 15000kv rating.

Turbo Ace 215:
http://www.wowhobbies.com/turboace71...nstalle-5.aspx

Extreme Spin 16,300kv
http://helidirect.com/xtreme-spin-br...es-p-23056.hdx
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 12:29 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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I've grown tired of replacing my main gears on my D05CS. It's about the only thing on the heli that ever breaks too after upgrading to the "S" parts. The old style gears are just too brittle and the D05 gear cannot be upgraded easily because of the belt drive tail. So like many people here and with other small helis. I've been using sheer pins to help prevent damages. Previously i used a paper clip but they seem to vary in hardness and often would not sheer even in the worst rotor impact cashes. The sheer pin should have broke, instead i'm missing a few teeth on my main gear.


So i went right to the hardware store and picked up some things to try. First i got a roll of 18 gauge picture frame wire. Which is aluminum wire. I had thought the jesus pin was 1mm in size. By converting metric to AWG i came up with the 19 AWG measurement would fit. I figured 18 AWG should be perfect! But i had a lot of trouble getting it to fit though. Since it's soft aluminum you cant push very hard either. So I moved on to my second option, which in reality was my first pick and was just hoping the picture frame wire would work because it was beefier. /shrug

Anyway, I will report back after a crash to see how it works out, i have good expectations. As long as it can handle the constant load and pitching with these upgrade motors. here is what i ended up using:

.032 aluminum rod stock



It fits nicely, especially since i already have some CA crudding up the area from the last sheer pin. I always use a dab of CA on each end so the pin does not slide out easily.



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Old Aug 26, 2012, 12:31 PM
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V120D05CS-Sport - 3d flight before the rain! (4 min 11 sec)
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I've grown tired of replacing my main gears on my D05CS. It's about the only thing on the heli that ever breaks too after upgrading to the "S" parts. The old style gears are just too brittle and the D05 gear cannot be upgraded easily because of the belt drive tail. So like many people here and with other small helis. I've been using sheer pins to help prevent damages. Previously i used a paper clip but they seem to vary in hardness and often would not sheer even in the worst rotor impact cashes. The sheer pin should have broke, instead i'm missing a few teeth on my main gear.


So i went right to the hardware store and picked up some things to try. First i got a roll of 18 gauge picture frame wire. Which is aluminum wire. I had thought the jesus pin was 1mm in size. By converting metric to AWG i came up with the 19 AWG measurement would fit. I figured 18 AWG should be perfect! But i had a lot of trouble getting it to fit though. Since it's soft aluminum you cant push very hard either. So I moved on to my second option, which in reality was my first pick and was just hoping the picture frame wire would work because it was beefier. /shrug

Anyway, I will report back after a crash to see how it works out, i have good expectations. As long as it can handle the constant load and pitching with these upgrade motors. here is what i ended
I am running on stock parts so far ( just got the heli yesterday ), but I have already replaced the main gear pin with a "21/22 gauge copper wire" am running it and have already saved myself a couple of main gears.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 03:03 PM
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United States, WI, Janesville
Joined Apr 2011
401 Posts
turbo ace 215 bushing

for about three weeks now I could not get the D05 to fly stable. It was just super squirley, or it would be ok then spass out with the next batt. Going through a lot of feathering shafts. Torn down to parrade rest and mic'd all the parts and links, checked individual servo's, swapped out RX's. Tried diff. curvers, expo settings... I just could not figure this out. Getting ready to strip it all down again.......well the brass bushing on the output shaft of the 215 had popped down next to the pinion. When I would inspect the motor and gears I didn't see this when it was turned up side down.... with out this bushing in place the motor rotor will float up and down resulting in random speed changes. That little lesson ran me about 50$ in parts
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
First of all, yes, I highly recommend the 2622V over the 2615V. It will be more stable and hold the tail better.

That motor would not be a upgrade. The stock motor is actually decent. But the heli is problematic. Your looking for 15000kv or higher. For the time being you can adjust your throttle settings in your TX to be higher. Gyro hold could be adjusted higher too. For normal mode you want to have your throttle at like 80% in the middle. so for 2801-pro the throttle curves should be like the following:

Normal mode: 0 - 35 - 80 - 100 - 100 or even as much as 0 - 40 - 90 - 100 - 100
St-1: 100 - 100 - 100 - 100 - 100
St-2: 100 - 100 - 100 - 100 - 100

Turbo Ace 215:
http://www.wowhobbies.com/turboace71...nstalle-5.aspx

Extreme Spin 16,300kv
http://helidirect.com/xtreme-spin-br...es-p-23056.hdx
thanks for this info,I shall try the throttle curve you have suggested and report back tomorrow. I had already jacked up the throttle curve to output 70% at 50% input, going beyond that was not looking Ok to me, but with your inputs, I shall try it.

The tail problem is BIG, and does not gives enough confidence to try and learn orientations on this heli, which was the whole purpose of putting in 200usd, it seems it demands another 100 in upgrades before it can fly properly. Will order the turbo ace motor first (once it gets in stock) and then the new rx.

I have setup the swash, tracking ok and heli is able to hover hands free now, but any sudden changes to throttle and the tail just goes Out of control.

Questions:
1. On wow hobbies, the 915 motor with 14t is available and a user on this forum suggested that motor should also work, but am not sure. If you can suggest, should I wait? Should I order the xtreme spin? Or 915 should be fine?

2. I have 6 stock batteries, but it seems the fight time is very low, around 2-3 mins per charge per battery, is that normal? Will it further reduce with suggested throttle curve? And anyways to keep this heli in air longer per battery, changing the canopy every time is a major problem.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedan View Post
for about three weeks now I could not get the D05 to fly stable. It was just super squirley, or it would be ok then spass out with the next batt. Going through a lot of feathering shafts. Torn down to parrade rest and mic'd all the parts and links, checked individual servo's, swapped out RX's. Tried diff. curvers, expo settings... I just could not figure this out. Getting ready to strip it all down again.......well the brass bushing on the output shaft of the 215 had popped down next to the pinion. When I would inspect the motor and gears I didn't see this when it was turned up side down.... with out this bushing in place the motor rotor will float up and down resulting in random speed changes. That little lesson ran me about 50$ in parts
This is the same thing that happened to Travis MCH's 215. He thought the motor was ruined so he sent it to me, so i could use the shaft out of it to repair my 215 with broken drive shaft. Well, I found the same thing you described when i received it. The bushing had floated up and was worn to the point that it would not stay down any longer. I dabbed some loc tite on the brass bushing, carefully to avoid excess, and pressed it into place and let it sit for 24 hours. It had been fine ever since and Travis was kind enough to let me keep it ( thanks again travis!) Which was a big help because without it, at the time i was stuck without any of my micro helis to fly and my 450 was just being a big train wreck in the sky because of faulty batteries! (oops) So give that little repair trick a try. The motor has at least 20 flights in it since then with no issues. (damn rain)


Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
thanks for this info,I shall try the throttle curve you have suggested and report back tomorrow. I had already jacked up the throttle curve to output 70% at 50% input, going beyond that was not looking Ok to me, but with your inputs, I shall try it.
Shouldn't be a problem even running it at 100% constantly. Just be mindful of the heat it will create in the summer. Check the ESC and motor after each flight. I like to let every one of my helis sit 5 minutes between flights. Thats why i like to bring a few with me to the park. I never fly batteries back to back. I know you are just learning and very anxious, but in the long run it pays to be patient. Also you should lube your motor bearings every 5-10 flights to help prolong it's life.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
The tail problem is BIG, and does not gives enough confidence to try and learn orientations on this heli, which was the whole purpose of putting in 200usd, it seems it demands another 100 in upgrades before it can fly properly. Will order the turbo ace motor first (once it gets in stock) and then the new rx.

I have setup the swash, tracking ok and heli is able to hover hands free now, but any sudden changes to throttle and the tail just goes Out of control.
When you move the pitch up what way does the tail want to move? The tail and rudder should be setup so that the servo arm is at 90 degrees to the tail boom and the tail rocker arm should also be at about 90 degrees. You can adjust the rudder linkage to add a little bit of mechanical rudder gain to counter the way the tail is moving when you pitch up. That is the best i can explain it. If the tail moves to the right, adjust the rudder linkage a turn or two to make the air blow slightly to the right to try to hold it. There is a sweet spot you have to be in. Also you need to check that you and the gyro are able to move the steering slider on the tail to the extremes without binding on them. So you need to adjust your rudder ext pot on the RX and move the rudder while watching it. Adjust it so that you can move it as far as possible with out rubbing on either side. Leave 1/2mm or so space. you want to be able to almost touch the left side while being able to move as far as possible to the right as well. If you cannot touch the right side with the steering slider the tail will constantly kick to the right because the rudder gyro does not have the room to move the tail far enough. So you have to balance the rudder linkage rod adjustments with the rudder EXT pot on the RX basically to get everything centered up. Again setting the gyrohold on your TX to 90% or something might help too. I hope this did confuse you too much. The upgraded RX will hold the tail much better, just FYI. Also having the 215 motor will be a large improvement in tail hold ability.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dheerajjuneja View Post
Questions:
1. On wow hobbies, the 915 motor with 14t is available and a user on this forum suggested that motor should also work, but am not sure. If you can suggest, should I wait? Should I order the xtreme spin? Or 915 should be fine?

2. I have 6 stock batteries, but it seems the fight time is very low, around 2-3 mins per charge per battery, is that normal? Will it further reduce with suggested throttle curve? And anyways to keep this heli in air longer per battery, changing the canopy every time is a major problem.

Unfortunately you bought a old helicopter that was basically a lemon in its overall design. If you didn't know about it before hand, that really sucks for you. But when you get done being mad about it, and having to spend more money. Well, when you watch one of my D05 you tube video it should make you feel better to know that you can make this a VERY viable helicopter. but in the end it could cost you a total of $500 just for the helicopter with all it's upgrades. Yup, a few of us here have all done it and love the heli after. But it sure does suck right out of the box. That being said, I would wait for the 215 motor because it is a better performing motor and is basically the upgraded version of the 915 motor. Though the 915 might be better than the Extreme spin motor, because the Extreme spin motor lacks torque.

The stock D05 batteries are not very good, unfortunately. wow sells these turbo ace 950 mAh 25C batteries that are pretty good when they actually send you the right batteries and not the D05 batteries with longer wires. Otherwise i would get the turnigy nanotech 950 mAh 25C packs from hobbyking. So you can expect 3 minute flights even with the highest throttle settings. Though it will probably be better with a better motor. The batteries really do make a big difference though.
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