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Old Jun 02, 2011, 10:18 PM
John
United States, WA, Mason
Joined Apr 2011
786 Posts
Alex -- I bought a set of your cloverleaf 1.3 antennas from you. I am putting together a Skywalker. I was going to lay the Vtx down on a flat area behind the prop, but I assume that I need to keep the cloverleaf upright. Is it OK to put some sort of 90 degree adapter or flexible extension between the Tx and the antenna? I seem to remember you possibly saying NOT to put extensions??? If it is OK, where might I find that? Also, would buying your "helical" for my VRx be a worthwhile step up for me? -- thanks, JOHN
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 10:28 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVIATION_RULZ View Post
I also found this one:
http://www.securitycamera2000.com/pr...-OSD-Menu.html

Would you go with the one I mentioned before or this one?
It looks like for $12 more you get a case and "camera mounted OSD buttons". A case does make it easier to mount.

Would you rather have the OSD buttons on the camera case or on the cable? Wiring is usually inside the airplane, making it less convenient to access OSD on the cable, but buttons on back of the camera would be even more difficult with some pan-tilt mounts.

I think I would go for the case because I use only a pan servo and the buttons on the camera case would work better for me.

Cliff
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Old Jun 02, 2011, 11:53 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Wiring for the BestOfferBuy sender / eBay camera

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orcoz View Post
Is there any chance ODUsurfer, or TheotherCliff could post a picture of their set up with reference notes on the shopping list and how it's wired together?

From Cliff's post on page 39: "If you wanted to try building your own system on 1280mhz, you could do it for more like $120. OSD Camera (no case, 3.6mm lens) FPV link battery battery connector bnc to rca adapter"

The shopping list is easy to follow, and I have carefully studied ODUsurfer's pic of his Radian Pro from page 52... but it's still not clear in my mind how you went from shopping list to driving around the block while sitting in your living room

I'm back to the hobby after about a 5 year absence. This new aspect of the hobby is absolutely thrilling... but I want to do it right (read:small steps over a long time). Conceptually I think I'm almost there, but understanding the process ODUSurfer took would be very helpful.

Thanks!
Oz
When you have the stuff in your hand, it becomes a bit clearer.

Some things to remember:
- Generally yellow means video
- Generally white means audio
- Camera video plugs are BNC or RCA
- White RCA plugs are audio
- Red single conductor wires are plus volts, usually 12VDC
- Black single conductor wires are ground
- Many black "wires" are actually multiple conductor cables, usually coax
- Barrel connectors (like a laptop power plug) are power plugs
- Cameras have power and video plugs (and sometimes audio plugs too)
- The FPV transmitter has connectors for antenna, power in, power out, video in and audio in plugs. All but the antenna are on a separate wiring harness. The only reason for power in and power out is to make it easy to power a camera. The power in and out are internally wired together.
- The FPV receiver has connectors for antenna, power, video out, and autio out.

Standard cheap video senders use RCA plugs for audio and video. This is the stuff I know about. They usually use 12 volts DC for power. The BestOfferBuy and eBay rigs are 12VDC. Know your power requirements. Specialty house video senders will have different connectors and may use 5 volts for power.

Standard security cameras that we use for FPV use 12 volts DC and have either a BNC or an RCA plug (yellow) for video. They have a standard barrel connector for power. This is the stuff I know about. Cameras from FPV specialty houses may be 5 volts and will have different connectors.

Generally each brand of stuff from FPV specialty houses has their own other way of wiring things. If you need help with wiring one of these, someone else will have to step up and help you as I don't have these.

Cut red plug (power in) off of transmitter harness. Solder the power plug of your choice in it's place. Center conductor is positive. Outer is ground. This is where you will connect your 12 volt battery to power the transmitter and camera. Generally, current draw is about 300ma so a 300mah battery will last an hour. I use 400mah to 500mah batteries as they are easy to find and inexpensive.

Plug transmitter harness into transmitter.

Attach transmitter antenna to transmitter. Some transmitters will be damaged without a proper antenna.

Plug yellow plug of transmitter harness to yellow plug of camera (video). In this particular case you will need the correct sex of BNC to RCA adapter as in original post or you can replace one of the plugs or straight wire it.

Plug black plug of transmitter harness to black plug of camera (power).

Make sure that the camera boards can't sort out together or touch anything metal. It is safe to hold the powered camera in your hand, but try to avoid touching the powered transmitter antenna or being real close to it for long periods of time. Besides the hazard it may be to you it is also not a good idea for the transmitter to allow it's antenna to be close to anything but air.

Plug 12V battery to the plug you soldered to the transmitter harness to power up the FPV transmitter and camera.

Connect yellow jack on receiver to your display/recorder device's video input

White is audio if you add a microphone.

Plug wall wart into wall and receiver power to power up the receiver.

Power up your display / recorder.

Oh yah, like ODUSurfer said (I see now that he also replied), take the gold heat sink case off the transmitter and mount the transmitter out in the airstream and keep an eye on it's temperature during extended non-flight usage.

I bought some 2-56 nylon bolts and standoffs from non-ferrousfastener.com and bolted the two camera boards together. You could also do a very small amount of re-wiring so that video / power / ground went straight to the camera board and only use the button board when making changes to the camera settings. You could also carefully glue (not CA) some veneer sides to hold the two boards together.

There is really fairly little reason but aesthetics to make a case for the camera. I suggest gluing two squares of 3mm (1/8 inch) plywood together in an L. Cut a hole in one that is big enough for the lens to poke through. Bolt or glue the non-hole board to the top of the fuselage (or on top of a servo arm for servo panning). Stick the camera through the hole and rubber band the camera to the board. If you make the angle of the L more than 90 degrees, the camera will point down slightly (a good thing).

Both antennas should be mounted vertically for correct polarization. It also helps to mount your receiver up a 2m plastic pole and run the video signal down to your other stuff.

Cliff
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Last edited by theothercliff; Jun 03, 2011 at 12:22 AM.
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 12:28 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalCAM View Post
Alex -- I bought a set of your cloverleaf 1.3 antennas from you. I am putting together a Skywalker. I was going to lay the Vtx down on a flat area behind the prop, but I assume that I need to keep the cloverleaf upright. Is it OK to put some sort of 90 degree adapter or flexible extension between the Tx and the antenna? I seem to remember you possibly saying NOT to put extensions??? If it is OK, where might I find that? Also, would buying your "helical" for my VRx be a worthwhile step up for me? -- thanks, JOHN
A short length (a foot or so) of coax between the transmitter and antenna doesn't hurt too much. Ideally you want the coax coming up straight from underneath the antenna. not lying along the bottom of it with a 90 degree fitting. Not what you wanted to hear I bet.

The helical is a directional antenna. I would go omni directional (no trackers or diversity needed) unless you already know that you need extra range.

Cliff
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 12:38 AM
Clueless, but trying
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United States, WA, Enumclaw
Joined Nov 2001
752 Posts
Wow. You two nailed it for me. ODUSurfer gave me the cliff notes, and TheotherCliff gave me the appendix sheets!

Hopefully I'll be following in your footsteps soon! Bday is tomorrow let's hope I've got the green light from the Mrs.

Oz
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 01:16 AM
There's magic in those wings !
khaled_abobakr's Avatar
Joined Nov 2006
4,818 Posts
Hi ...

Can I use a splitter Y cable so the rudder stick controls both the pan movement of the camera and the Rudder control surface... I think this may apply to the elevator/tilt stick too ??... Please correct me

Thanks a lot for your input

Khaled
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 02:52 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2011
572 Posts
A Little Skeptic....

Hi Pilots,

I'm a little skeptic.... I found a 1.2Ghz Rx and Tx for $50.... am I reading this right??? If yes, any reason why I shouldn't go with this set as opposed to paying twice as much somewhere else?

Please correct me if I'm wrong cause I feel like I'm missing something.

http://www.sunsky-online.com/view/13...ransmitter.htm
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 03:29 AM
Kiwi in Germany
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Germany
Joined Jun 2010
2,255 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVIATION_RULZ View Post
Hi Pilots,

I'm a little skeptic.... I found a 1.2Ghz Rx and Tx for $50.... am I reading this right??? If yes, any reason why I shouldn't go with this set as opposed to paying twice as much somewhere else?

Please correct me if I'm wrong cause I feel like I'm missing something.

http://www.sunsky-online.com/view/13...ransmitter.htm
nope, people do use that. it isn't that bad for a cheap setup. But it is cheap and you will have to remember that. Many people who are skilled at soldering change the saw filter on it. Alex with his omni CP antennas has gone out 2 miles on the same thing.

But you must understand just because it is rated at 800mw doesn't mean you can fly as far as other 800mw systems. This is a cheap system and it does have it's own cheap draw backs.

It will work and you can get okay range on it. If you are looking to stay in the 2 mile range most of the time then go for it. I would say this will do the job for most fpv pilots.
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whakahere View Post
nope, people do use that. it isn't that bad for a cheap setup. But it is cheap and you will have to remember that. Many people who are skilled at soldering change the saw filter on it. Alex with his omni CP antennas has gone out 2 miles on the same thing.

But you must understand just because it is rated at 800mw doesn't mean you can fly as far as other 800mw systems. This is a cheap system and it does have it's own cheap draw backs.

It will work and you can get okay range on it. If you are looking to stay in the 2 mile range most of the time then go for it. I would say this will do the job for most fpv pilots.
Cheap in what sense? Besides literally of course...
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 05:36 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khaled_abobakr View Post
Hi ...

Can I use a splitter Y cable so the rudder stick controls both the pan movement of the camera and the Rudder control surface... I think this may apply to the elevator/tilt stick too ??... Please correct me

Thanks a lot for your input

Khaled
I would use the aileron channel to control both the rudder and the ailerons. Then I would use the rudder channel to control just the camera panning. That way the plane doesn't move when you move the camera.

Cliff
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 05:43 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVIATION_RULZ View Post
Hi Pilots,

I'm a little skeptic.... I found a 1.2Ghz Rx and Tx for $50.... am I reading this right??? If yes, any reason why I shouldn't go with this set as opposed to paying twice as much somewhere else?

Please correct me if I'm wrong cause I feel like I'm missing something.

http://www.sunsky-online.com/view/13...ransmitter.htm
That unit is $64 shipped. The BestOfferBuy unit is $58 shipped and I trust them / it a little more.

Cliff
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 05:46 AM
Kiwi in Germany
whakahere's Avatar
Germany
Joined Jun 2010
2,255 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by khaled_abobakr View Post
Hi ...

Can I use a splitter Y cable so the rudder stick controls both the pan movement of the camera and the Rudder control surface... I think this may apply to the elevator/tilt stick too ??... Please correct me

Thanks a lot for your input

Khaled
You are using futaba rx right?? if so do this. I use it

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1362265

Quote:
Originally Posted by AVIATION_RULZ View Post
Cheap in what sense? Besides literally of course...
It is cheap because it uses cheap gear inside which is less sensitive. The thing is many people do use this unit so if you are looking to start out then go for it. Make sure you read this thread. Lots of experience here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1279902
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 06:05 AM
The way of being is doing.
IMEIV's Avatar
Italia, Emilia Romagna, Ravenna
Joined Apr 2009
432 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
That unit is $64 shipped. The BestOfferBuy unit is $58 shipped and I trust them / it a little more.

Cliff
Otherwise, I buy this tx/rx http://www.sunsky-online.com/product...bject.id=13087
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 08:11 AM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
Amherst, VA
Joined Jun 2006
10,343 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalCAM View Post
Alex -- I bought a set of your cloverleaf 1.3 antennas from you. I am putting together a Skywalker. I was going to lay the Vtx down on a flat area behind the prop, but I assume that I need to keep the cloverleaf upright. Is it OK to put some sort of 90 degree adapter or flexible extension between the Tx and the antenna? I seem to remember you possibly saying NOT to put extensions??? If it is OK, where might I find that? Also, would buying your "helical" for my VRx be a worthwhile step up for me? -- thanks, JOHN
It's not the coaxial cable that's the problem, it's the connectors. I find that using a jumper causes a reduction in output power of about 30% regardless of the length. However, this corresponds to only 1db or so. Nothing major. When you consider the effects of having a battery in the way of your signal which results in somthing like a 10db drop, the extension doesn't seem so bad.

If you're a newbie, I recommend a 3 turn (7.5dbic) helical. This will reach far beyond any standard RC control radio system and has good coverage to the sides. However, I think that another cloverleaf or skew-wheel on the RX is probably enough.

-Alex
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Old Jun 03, 2011, 08:14 AM
Engineer for Christ
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Amherst, VA
Joined Jun 2006
10,343 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
That unit is $64 shipped. The BestOfferBuy unit is $58 shipped and I trust them / it a little more.

Cliff
The BoB drops out at 9V which can be disasterous if flying on a single battery. Throttle up and the video disappears when the battery is weak. However the Sunsky is good for 7.5V. I prefer the Sunsky eventhough the output power is really 600mw (not 800) and the BoB is actually 900mW (not 700).

All personal preference, though.

-Alex
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