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Old Mar 13, 2012, 11:14 AM
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United States, WA, Enumclaw
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Originally Posted by gooniac33 View Post
I will have to look at my radio and so that I can see what settings I use but I know that I am over 30% on elevator with some reduced throws and way over 50% on ailerons but I like having max throws there.

Also I use 3s 20-40c 2200 batteries and the plane balances perfect. You may want to go up in battery just a tad..
Good point and that was also on my agenda to tone down the rates. I was having a heck of a time with my PZ Trojan until I cut the rates down to 50%. Once comfortable there I started upping the rates to get the responsiveness I wanted. I will definately do this with the C182 on the next flight. I have one battery that is 2200mah but the weight difference over the 1800 is realy negligable as both seem to be very close to the same COG when I have tested them at home.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Good point and that was also on my agenda to tone down the rates. I was having a heck of a time with my PZ Trojan until I cut the rates down to 50%. Once comfortable there I started upping the rates to get the responsiveness I wanted. I will definately do this with the C182 on the next flight. I have one battery that is 2200mah but the weight difference over the 1800 is realy negligable as both seem to be very close to the same COG when I have tested them at home.
There is nothing wrong with having high rates so long as you have lots of expo to keep them in check. I like to have the throw if I am in a bad situation but I rarely go to the stops on my controls. Most of what I do happens towards center stick. Even landing. I use the throttle to control the decent of the plane so I don't bang around the sticks much. And I always set up my plane to fly as I want with no dual rates or switches to mess with. The only switches that I touch are the timer and flap switches.Other than that my settings always remain the same! Its not the only way to do things but the way that I have chosen. I used to fly with radios that had no expo or dual rates so have gotten used to flying a plane as it is and not messed with switches. I just tune them to my liking and leave it...
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 04:52 PM
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There is nothing wrong with having high rates so long as you have lots of expo to keep them in check...
So how much expo do you usually set up? I've not had the DX6i for long. Does +30 seem like a good place to start and reduce from there as needed?
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:43 PM
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So how much expo do you usually set up? I've not had the DX6i for long. Does +30 seem like a good place to start and reduce from there as needed?
Here are my settings...

Ailerons= 100% rates w/ +55% expo
Elevator= 100% rates w/+35% expo
Rudder= 100% rates w/+50% expo

I have the aileron and rudder throws maxed out. And elevator is at 100% throws.I actually want to add a little more expo to elevator and ailerons...
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Thanks Gooniac, I'll try those settings.

I also saw a few posts back you are going to try and make yours an RG. Any luck? Does someone make a retract that can fall and look like a broken leg then retract into the fuse like a true Cessna? I would LOVE to see that on a model.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:01 PM
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Thanks Gooniac, I'll try those settings.

I also saw a few posts back you are going to try and make yours an RG. Any luck? Does someone make a retract that can fall and look like a broken leg then retract into the fuse like a true Cessna? I would LOVE to see that on a model.
Welcome! And I have the main gear already. Had to set it up so that they rotated opposite directions since they both went the same way. But I don't think that they will dangle like the real plane. But they will fold away if all goes well. The nose gear was out of stock so I am still waiting for those to come...I am hoping to have it done by the weekend...but who knows....
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Welcome! And I have the main gear already. Had to set it up so that they rotated opposite directions since they both went the same way. But I don't think that they will dangle like the real plane. But they will fold away if all goes well. The nose gear was out of stock so I am still waiting for those to come...I am hoping to have it done by the weekend...but who knows....
Would love to see some video or at least some pictures of it when you get it done
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 11:41 PM
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Would love to see some video or at least some pictures of it when you get it done
Don't worry there will be pix when I am done....I will document the whole thing.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Bad report. I attempted another flight today. Was not good. My plane has been rebuilt from an earlier wreck. I was not able to find a 3 blade prop locally, so I sub'ed with a 2 blade prop and spinner that was an EP-1060. On the ground the plan seemed to have enough power but I was so wrong. After take off it seemed to want to stall even with 3/4 throttle. I wanted to land but a car was coming so will attemping a circle back something caused it to hammer over even with full throttle. Then nothing would respond so it seemed. I now have spare parts for a new plan.

Something I noticed but did not put to much thought into it. Was, the new motor when mounted seemed to not be pointed in the normal down and to the left as you look at the it from the front. Could this be a reason for the lack of power?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 06:32 PM
dbc
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If the 2 blade prop you used was a 10x6 as the number suggests it should have been about correct for the normally supplied 1100Kv motor. Is the motor on your plane blue (1100kv) or red (950kv)?
Some earlier planes were supplied with the red motor and they were very underpowered. The higher kv motor has lots of power when fitted with a correct prop.

The built in thrust correction would not have caused the plane to be severly underpowered. If incorrect, it can cause some minor issues with flight characteristics but unless it's way off it probably wouldn't be the cause of your problem.

I've got two of these planes, one with 276 documented flights. It is, without a doubt, one of the nicest flying inexpensive foamies of the 25 or so that I've had.

Sorry for your bad luck but I'd encourage you to get another. For only $71.50 they're a bargain and your likely to have better luck with the second one.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 07:09 AM
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Thanks for the info. The original motor was a 1100kv "blue". It died in the first crash. I replaced it with another "blue" 1100 KV motor that was a spare for my Catilina PBY.

I'm currently using a Fly Sky CT6B Transmitter. I've never range tested it. And both crashes occurred at almost the exact same spot. I wonder if it could have been some type of interference or just lack of range.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Bad report. I attempted another flight today. Was not good. My plane has been rebuilt from an earlier wreck. I was not able to find a 3 blade prop locally, so I sub'ed with a 2 blade prop and spinner that was an EP-1060. On the ground the plan seemed to have enough power but I was so wrong. After take off it seemed to want to stall even with 3/4 throttle. I wanted to land but a car was coming so will attemping a circle back something caused it to hammer over even with full throttle. Then nothing would respond so it seemed. I now have spare parts for a new plan.

Something I noticed but did not put to much thought into it. Was, the new motor when mounted seemed to not be pointed in the normal down and to the left as you look at the it from the front. Could this be a reason for the lack of power?
That prop is way too much for the motor. You are not getting the RPM you need out of it. I have tried all different props and the best one for the stock motor is the 10X4.7 APC SF prop. I was able to get the best climb and take off performance with that prop. I have since changed to a 1500kv motor and now use a 9X4.7APC and it works great now too! So try that and see what happens...
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:37 AM
dbc
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I would respectfully disagree that the prop is causing your problem. The slow flyer prop draws much more current due to its blade design. If your 10x6 is a regular electric prop it will probably load the motor about the same as a 4.7 pitch slow flyer.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 10:55 AM
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I would respectfully disagree that the prop is causing your problem. The slow flyer prop draws much more current due to its blade design. If your 10x6 is a regular electric prop it will probably load the motor about the same as a 4.7 pitch slow flyer.
If I hadn't tried it myself I wouldn't have said anything. The motor was pulling much more amps with the 10X6 E than the 10X4.7 SF. The top speed is limited with the SF prop but the motor seems to like it better. And it has gobs of thrust. It will climb straight up no problem. I will have to get the actual readings the next time but I do remember having it hooked up to a watt meter and the SF prop sounded much better and pulled way less amps. You can always tell when a motor is laboring and with the 10X4.7SF it was not...
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 01:49 PM
dbc
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I don't intend to argue the point but I have measured the current draw, prop rpm, calculated effeciency and calculated thrust with several different props. This is actual data, not "how it sounds" or if the "motor is laboring" which are purely judgemental statements.
A 10x6 electric prop will develop adequate thrust to fly this plane. It's highly unlikely that the prop caused the issues PBY described.
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