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Old Feb 28, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Hi,

I am also thinking of getting the Dynam Cessna, but was just wondering about the options. I saw on Nitroplane's website that they offer an ARF and a RTF version - one for $71 and the other for $139. Does ARF basically mean it doesn't come with the receiver? I am new to model planes so I don't understand much of the acronyms Is it generally better to buy the ARF and get your own receiver or buy the ready to fly version?

Also, it looks like these planes come pre-painted...is there anyway to change the scheme or repaint them?


Thanks!
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 05:30 PM
Blade mSR freak
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Irish Hills - SE Michigan
Joined Jan 2010
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ARF means it comes with motor, ESC and servos. Just build, add receiver and fly. The stock radio blows.

They only have a couple splashes of blue paint, on the nose and vertical stab. The rest of it is supplied decals. I added more blue on the wingtips, and racing stripes at mid-wing.
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 07:15 PM
RCAPA #299
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Joined Sep 2004
320 Posts
I'm tempted to pull the trigger on this one...it looks great in the air. The question i have is it capable of being hand launched with the stock motor? seems like it may be a bit under powered for that. Also anyone landing on grass...wondering how the landing gear will hold up.

Thanks
JG
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 06:00 AM
Blade mSR freak
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Irish Hills - SE Michigan
Joined Jan 2010
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I would strongly recommend reading this entire thread from the beginning.

The stock front LG needs some reinforcement out of the box if it's expected to last. The pivot/attachment point for the front LG is way up inside the nose, so there's barely any support where the shaft exits the body. The shaft becomes a big "lever" for impact when you hit big bumps. The LG will bend, and the foam will crack.

I split a thick piece of a plastic drumset cymbal sleeve and re-glued the two halves around the front LG shaft, and gorilla-glued the sleeve to the surrounding foam to strengthen it, then added an additional spring on the exposed shaft to stiffen up the suspension so it wouldn't bottom out. I used a Fender Strat pickup mounting spring. Also, the top end of the shaft needs to be sawed-off a bit and re-mounted. Otherwise, the end of the rod will puncture and Lipo battery when the suspension compresses fully.

(I manage a music store, did you notice?)

The stock wheels are a bit small for grass. The front wheel bracket would need to be re-fabricated to accomodate a larger wheel. Nosing-over tends to break the prop and/or damage the motor bearings, and these parts are usually in short supply or impossible to find at times. You're better off sticking to the parking lots and industrial park flying sites.

Photo of my modified LG from page 7... The sleeve is white, so it's not really visible, but it's flush with the surface of the foam. I cut out the rectangular piece of body foam between the two vents to install the sleeve, then glued the piece back in place. This was the best thing I could have done for durability.

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Old Feb 29, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Sunnyvale
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Originally Posted by charlesconklin View Post
What parts did you get? Are you planning on making them from scratch? I have been very interested in doing the same thing.
I will tell all when I am done. It is a work in progress. I have to see how all of this work and don't know if it will affect CG at all once I set it up. Looking over videos about the retract sequence and then going to figure out how to move things around. I will post it all as I am going...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jg4660 View Post
I'm tempted to pull the trigger on this one...it looks great in the air. The question i have is it capable of being hand launched with the stock motor? seems like it may be a bit under powered for that. Also anyone landing on grass...wondering how the landing gear will hold up.

Thanks
JG
It is a great flying plane stock. It has a wide fuselage so it may be hard to hold but it will hand launch easy. When you take off from the ground it is airborne in a couple feet.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Repair of crushed nose section...

I wanted to share with you how I was able to straighten the crushed portion of plane after a crash from about 50 feet. First some before the fix pictures.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket with enough hot water to submerge the front section of the plane. Then used 2 different large pots on the stove to boil the water. I saw on YouTube where a guy used this method but he did everything on the stove top. I believe this method is safer. Once the water is boilingcarefully poor the boilingwater back into the bucket. Submerge your bent or crushed parts into the hot water. Be careful the steam can still burn you. Only leave the parts in the freshly boiled water for a few seconds. Then remove and inspect for any movement. Repeat the process until the parts are back to original shape. I monitored my water temp with a digital probe rom the kitchen. The temp of the water stayed above 180 deg F during the process.

Now for the follow up pictures. My process has not been profected due to the slight blistering of the outside surface. I believe if you waited until the water temp dropped to 190 deg F it would not do this.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 10:51 AM
Blade mSR freak
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Irish Hills - SE Michigan
Joined Jan 2010
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White Gorilla Glue is your friend.
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Old Mar 06, 2012, 11:30 AM
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Sunnyvale
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue_PBY View Post
I wanted to share with you how I was able to straighten the crushed portion of plane after a crash from about 50 feet. First some before the fix pictures.

I filled a 5 gallon bucket with enough hot water to submerge the front section of the plane. Then used 2 different large pots on the stove to boil the water. I saw on YouTube where a guy used this method but he did everything on the stove top. I believe this method is safer. Once the water is boilingcarefully poor the boilingwater back into the bucket. Submerge your bent or crushed parts into the hot water. Be careful the steam can still burn you. Only leave the parts in the freshly boiled water for a few seconds. Then remove and inspect for any movement. Repeat the process until the parts are back to original shape. I monitored my water temp with a digital probe rom the kitchen. The temp of the water stayed above 180 deg F during the process.

Now for the follow up pictures. My process has not been profected due to the slight blistering of the outside surface. I believe if you waited until the water temp dropped to 190 deg F it would not do this.
You can always prevent the bubbling by using the back of a cold spoon to press it back down. It works pretty good! And you did a really good job bringing it back!
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hydro_pyro View Post
White Gorilla Glue is your friend.
I did not know they made White Gorilla Glue. I'll be looking for that on my next trip to the store.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gooniac33 View Post
You can always prevent the bubbling by using the back of a cold spoon to press it back down. It works pretty good! And you did a really good job bringing it back!
Thanks, I'll try to remember the spoon next time
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 08:12 AM
EDF Junkie
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San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue_PBY View Post
I did not know they made White Gorilla Glue. I'll be looking for that on my next trip to the store.
Just a heads up. It doesnt look white in the container, however when it dries it is very white. If you've never used gorilla glue it can be very messy and sticks to your skin extremely well. It expands quite a bit so a little goes a long way.

What I like to do is apply a very thin amount and spread it with a stir stick on whatever surface I'm glueing and try to remove what seems like excess. Then I'll hit it with spray mist of water to accelerate it. You can apply tape across any seem to keep the glue from expanding out and onto the outer surfaces. Good luck. Hope this helps.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 09:23 AM
Gorilla...Hired Gorilla
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Surrey, British Columbia
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Replacement motorshafts.... $2.45...

http://www.snhobbies.com/
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 11:20 AM
Blade mSR freak
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Irish Hills - SE Michigan
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Whie Gorilla Glue also expands and hardens faster than standard GG. Use it without water to keep the foaming to a minimum and increase hardened strength.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:48 AM
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United States, WA, Enumclaw
Joined Jun 2006
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I've had the same experience as many here. I bought this plane and so did my son for $71.50 on Nitroplanes. Mine arrived with the tail end broken, just inserted a couple of toothpicks in the foam and used Gorilla glue to mend it and you can't even see the seam. Mine had a broken control horn on one aileron, my son's was missing control horns completely on the rudder and elevator. Both have the blue motors but the box lists them at 950KV

Maiden flight was a nightmare. My friend has one similar to this and uses 1800mah 3s batteries, since I have several of these for my PZ Trojan that's what I used. CG tested fine at home but on rotation the nose pointed straight to the sky. I nosed it over and banked it away from the road towards the grassy field it dropped a wing and dove for the ground, I pulled it out and tried to level the wings but it started another steep climb and wanted to snap roll other way. I gained some altitude, dumped the flaps (glad I had them installed and working)nosed over and made a controlled descent to a flare and landing in the field but the grass was deep enough to cause the nose mount to be torn loose from the foam as the plane nosed over onto it's back. No damage beside the nose gear mount.

At home I inspected everything closely, the horizontal stabilizer appeared to be curled downwards at each end (anhedral). I knew this wasn't right but not sure it would contribute that much to the adverse handling. I removed the stab, soaked in very hot water and bent it the other way to flatten it out. Nose gear mount was re-glued using lots of Gorilla glue (the factory doesn't use much glue at all here) and the plane is ready for a 2nd flight but now the WX is too crappy to try. I will set some down elevator for the next flight.

BTW for those who crash their planes, Nitroplanes sells an entire replacement fuselage for this plane for $19.10, Wing for $19.10, Vert. Stab $6.95, etc.

For those who care I'm using a Spektrum DS6i, Orange Receiver from HK ($5.95), and 1800mah, 3s, 20C batteries.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 10:03 AM
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Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nwjeeper View Post
I've had the same experience as many here. I bought this plane and so did my son for $71.50 on Nitroplanes. Mine arrived with the tail end broken, just inserted a couple of toothpicks in the foam and used Gorilla glue to mend it and you can't even see the seam. Mine had a broken control horn on one aileron, my son's was missing control horns completely on the rudder and elevator. Both have the blue motors but the box lists them at 950KV

Maiden flight was a nightmare. My friend has one similar to this and uses 1800mah 3s batteries, since I have several of these for my PZ Trojan that's what I used. CG tested fine at home but on rotation the nose pointed straight to the sky. I nosed it over and banked it away from the road towards the grassy field it dropped a wing and dove for the ground, I pulled it out and tried to level the wings but it started another steep climb and wanted to snap roll other way. I gained some altitude, dumped the flaps (glad I had them installed and working)nosed over and made a controlled descent to a flare and landing in the field but the grass was deep enough to cause the nose mount to be torn loose from the foam as the plane nosed over onto it's back. No damage beside the nose gear mount.

At home I inspected everything closely, the horizontal stabilizer appeared to be curled downwards at each end (anhedral). I knew this wasn't right but not sure it would contribute that much to the adverse handling. I removed the stab, soaked in very hot water and bent it the other way to flatten it out. Nose gear mount was re-glued using lots of Gorilla glue (the factory doesn't use much glue at all here) and the plane is ready for a 2nd flight but now the WX is too crappy to try. I will set some down elevator for the next flight.

BTW for those who crash their planes, Nitroplanes sells an entire replacement fuselage for this plane for $19.10, Wing for $19.10, Vert. Stab $6.95, etc.

For those who care I'm using a Spektrum DS6i, Orange Receiver from HK ($5.95), and 1800mah, 3s, 20C batteries.
It sounds like it was tail heavy. And you may have had way too much elevator throw as well. Its always best to go just a tad ahead of the CG recommendations on the first flight just to get a feel for the airplane. If you have a DX6i you should always tone down your controls quite a bit with some expo. The elevator is very effective on this plane and you don't need nearly as much control all the time. I will have to look at my radio and so that I can see what settings I use but I know that I am over 30% on elevator with some reduced throws and way over 50% on ailerons but I like having max throws there.

Also I use 3s 20-40c 2200 batteries and the plane balances perfect. You may want to go up in battery just a tad..
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