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Old Dec 09, 2010, 07:50 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
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Art Hobby's Zuni-V 1.2M Build Thread

Good morning folks,

I'm in the process of building a Zuni-V from Art Hobby. It's my very first sail plane build and was hoping I could rely on your expertise throughout the build.

My first question has to do with the finish on the wings. I sanded the corners and then applied DEFT Sanding Sealer. I sanded once dried, about an hour, then applied DEFT Clear Wood finish, about 3 coats one hour apart. What I noticed is that the wing surface is a bit rough in some spots. Can I sand those spots and re-apply? How critical is it to be completely smooth?
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 08:11 AM
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Michigan's Upper Peninsula
Joined Sep 2007
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Ed,

I fly some of their e-sailplanes with the same finish. I use the Deft gloss and often apply several light coats with sanding in between. I normally use 400-600 grit for my final sanding. You are not expeiencing anything unusual. There is absolutely no problem with sanding and re-applying as necessary. Just go lightly with the paper over that pretty but thin sheeting. You will end up with a smooth finish. Yes, the smoother the better.

I have also used a variety of paints to add some color for visibility, but only use stripes or bars to keep the weight down. The Krylon spray is fast drying and works well for me with plenty of colors available. Seems to be light and not "gunky". Also dries very fast.

Dave
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 08:49 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
242 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highride View Post
Ed,

I fly some of their e-sailplanes with the same finish. I use the Deft gloss and often apply several light coats with sanding in between. I normally use 400-600 grit for my final sanding. You are not expeiencing anything unusual. There is absolutely no problem with sanding and re-applying as necessary. Just go lightly with the paper over that pretty but thin sheeting. You will end up with a smooth finish. Yes, the smoother the better.

I have also used a variety of paints to add some color for visibility, but only use stripes or bars to keep the weight down. The Krylon spray is fast drying and works well for me with plenty of colors available. Seems to be light and not "gunky". Also dries very fast.

Dave
Thanks Dave! I knew I could rely on your advice. I really appreciate it. I can't wait to get that ultra smooth finish. I will send pictures shortly.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 12:22 PM
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Ed,

Happy to help and, like all our RC friends, I never charge! <big grin>. Looking forward to your pictures. Here's a pic of the last Art Hobby plane I built. It's a 2.5m Orion. One of my favorites.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 03:44 PM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
242 Posts
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Originally Posted by Highride View Post
Ed,

Happy to help and, like all our RC friends, I never charge! <big grin>. Looking forward to your pictures. Here's a pic of the last Art Hobby plane I built. It's a 2.5m Orion. One of my favorites.
Your Orion looks awesome! Perhaps I will be able to "move up" to it after the Zuni.

Let me first say that after I got the green light to sand lightly over the clear coat, I ran to the garage and did just that. I then wiped it clean and applied one more thin coat. Wow! It's as smooth as I had hoped.

Next step...joining the wing...I have marked and cut out the slots for the blocks. I have also sanded the blocks accordingly and they fit perfectly. I also went ahead and cut out the wing servo bay.

What's lacking in the instructions is how in the heck am I supposed to get the servo extensions through if I epoxy the wings together? Also, if I were to drill a hole where the wings come together, how will I get those leads into the canopy? I don't see a way to get the aileron servo wires in there.

Thanks for your prompt response.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 04:22 PM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
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Build Photos

If you look closely at the block on the right, looks like something got a hold of it! I'll need to sand it down once again after it dries out after getting slimed by my dog.

You may also see that I have threaded some fishing line though the wings ready for the extensions.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 05:28 PM
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Ed,

I'll try to be brief.

You will have to cut a hole in the bottom of your wing to bring your servo wires out. You can keep your fishing line in, but tack it down with a small dot of glue...not CA because of the foam.

Join the wings with some 5 min epoxy or something similar. This will stabilize the joint while you glass. I'm assuming the Zuni construction is similar to their other planes.

CRITICAL...make sure you have accurately marked the location for your wing bolts on the outside of the wing. I just use a pencil. Also mark the location of your servo wire channels on the bottom of the wing. Make that mark heavy along with the bolt hole locations so you can see them through the glass.

Glassing. May be a few preferences here, but be patient. I use Z-Poxy or Pro-Set to lay glass down. Z-Poxy is readily available at your LHS. Both are easy to work with and brush on easily and lay down very nicely with a disposable brush. I do one side at a time starting with the wing top. Mask off the area to receive glass and leave 1 3-4mm gap between the tape and the edge of the glass. Burnish it down very well to stop the resin from creeping under the tape. Appply the glass and resin and let it harden overnight.

Keep your hands off of it <grin>...let the resin do its thing. You should be able to clearly see your marks through the glass. Once both top and bottom are done, do your sanding. The hole...I just use a cricular hole about 1/2 in in diamter centered over the mark for the channel. I cut it out using my Dremel tool. Clean out a little foam and there's your channels and fishing line if you kept it there. Actually, servo wire is stiff enough to push through short runs of wire channel so don't panic.

I hardwire my servos so I solder the extension to my servos then feed the wire down the channle to my cut out exit hole.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. There are also quite a few out here who are familiar with AH planes so you may hear from them as well.

Take your time on that wing joint and you'll get a good product.

Dave
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Last edited by Highride; Dec 09, 2010 at 05:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 05:55 PM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
242 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highride View Post
Ed,

I'll try to be brief.

You will have to cut a hole in the bottom of your wing to bring your servo wires out. You can keep your fishing line in, but tack it down with a small dot of glue...not CA because of the foam.

Join the wings with some 5 min epoxy or something similar. This will stabilize the joint while you glass. I'm assuming the Zuni construction is similar to their other planes.

CRITICAL...make sure you have accurately marked the location for your wing bolts on the outside of the wing. I just use a pencil. Also mark the location of your servo wire channels on the bottom of the wing. Make that mark heavy along with the bolt hole locations so you can see them through the glass.

Glassing. May be a few preferences here, but be patient. I use Z-Poxy or Pro-Set to lay glass down. Z-Poxy is readily available at your LHS. Both are easy to work with and brush on easily and lay down very nicely with a disposable brush. I do one side at a time starting with the wing top. Mask off the area to receive glass and leave 1 3-4mm gap between the tape and the edge of the glass. Burnish it down very well to stop the resin from creeping under the tape. Appply the glass and resin and let it harden overnight.

Keep your hands off of it <grin>...let the resin do its thing. You should be able to clearly see your marks through the glass. Once both top and bottom are done, do your sanding. The hole...I just use a cricular hole about 1/2 in in diamter centered over the mark for the channel. I cut it out using my Dremel tool. Clean out a little foam and there's your channels and fishing line if you kept it there. Actually, servo wire is stiff enough to push through short runs of wire channel so don't panic.

I hardwire my servos so I solder the extension to my servos then feed the wire down the channle to my cut out exit hole.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. There are also quite a few out here who are familiar with AH planes so you may hear from them as well.

Take your time on that wing joint and you'll get a good product.

Dave
Thanks Dave...I'm on it. One quick question (i hope). Instructions state I should sand the wing opening to ensure a correct fit. Did you find the need to do that. Looks like I have the right angle when fitted together.
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 07:40 PM
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Ed,

I have had the same experience. Once I block up one of the tips to check the dihedral, I've found them to be right on. I always check, but never had to do any adjusting there.

Get back to work! Holler if you need some help or advice.

An addition...I use the Z-Poxy finishing resin because of its relatively low viscosity...makes it easier to brush on. Regular epoxy is often too thick and hard to work with.

Dave
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Last edited by Highride; Dec 09, 2010 at 07:43 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 08:04 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
242 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highride View Post
Ed,

I have had the same experience. Once I block up one of the tips to check the dihedral, I've found them to be right on. I always check, but never had to do any adjusting there.

Get back to work! Holler if you need some help or advice.

An addition...I use the Z-Poxy finishing resin because of its relatively low viscosity...makes it easier to brush on. Regular epoxy is often too thick and hard to work with.

Dave
'Morning Dave,

I got up and ran to the garage to inspect the wing assembly. Honestly, I don't think it could have come out better. The dihedral is nearly perfect at 62mm (60mm was the target). The glassing looks good with the exception of a little too much epoxy is spots. Lastly, I can see my marks for the pins and the hole location for my servo leads. BTW, I plugged the hole with some Styrofoam and hope to simply remove it and pull the servo extensions through. Photos shortly.


Dave, you had mentioned sanding. Do I sand the epoxyed glassed area? Also, we still haven't solved for how to get the servo extensions into the canopy. Please tell me I don't need to drill a hole through the canopy.


I could move forward and install the servos for the ailerons but I would rather wait until the very end. I read or hear that the wings could warp after the aileron are cut out.

After I drill 4 mm holes for the wing bolts and pull the extension wires out, I guess I'll start the V-tail assembly.

Any warning or suggestions in advance?
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 08:44 AM
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Joined Feb 2007
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Sounds like you're doing everything smoothly.. I've built 3 ArtHobby planes and it's simple everytime. Went from a Falco-V 60", to the Timon 2m, and lastly to the Sierra 2.5m... The Falco was my first glider too.. Great performance.

Dont' worry about the wing being warped. I never had one warp on me. Plus, it's not exposed outside so you're fine..

-
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 08:49 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
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Wing halves joined and glassed.
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 08:52 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
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Originally Posted by Hoangsta View Post
Sounds like you're doing everything smoothly.. I've built 3 ArtHobby planes and it's simple everytime. Went from a Falco-V 60", to the Timon 2m, and lastly to the Sierra 2.5m... The Falco was my first glider too.. Great performance.

Dont' worry about the wing being warped. I never had one warp on me. Plus, it's not exposed outside so you're fine..

-
Thanks Hoangsta! I really appreciate the expert advise from you guys. Please take a look at my pics to see the latest progress. BTW, what tool did you use to cut out the ailerons?
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 08:58 AM
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Straight edge and a razor.. lol.. I scored the line and slowly make deeper cuts each pass.

I believe the kits now already have them marked but if not,, mark it with a pencil. I cut the aileron from the Hinge line, to the LE first. Then I cut the Hinge line.. When you make that final pass, the aileron falls off.

Oh and used masking tape to tape the straight edge to the wing so it won't move.. =)
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Old Dec 10, 2010, 09:05 AM
If you got 'em, fly 'em
United States, TX, The Woodlands
Joined Aug 2009
242 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoangsta View Post
Straight edge and a razor.. lol.. I scored the line and slowly make deeper cuts each pass.

I believe the kits now already have them marked but if not,, mark it with a pencil. I cut the aileron from the Hinge line, to the LE first. Then I cut the Hinge line.. When you make that final pass, the aileron falls off.

Oh and used masking tape to tape the straight edge to the wing so it won't move.. =)
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm on it.
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