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Old Dec 06, 2010, 05:37 PM
56S
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Funbuild 4 Beech Staggerwing Flies!...and video to prove it!

The Beech D-17 series has always been a family favorite. One that should make a nice flier at 39" wingspan. I dug out the Dumas 17.5" kit and decided to expand the size to 200%. About half way through the scanning and printing process I noted it was being printed at 238%. Oh well, 39 instead of 35" I guess.
Planned power in my favorite, the Blue Wonder. 4 channel and removable gear and who knows what color or covering. I'm leaning toward the RA Microlite again. I have a feeling I'm going to find out just how fast a plane can go before the RA explodes
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Last edited by 56S; Feb 20, 2011 at 09:42 AM. Reason: She flies! and now video
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Old Dec 06, 2010, 06:05 PM
It flew once before...
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Northwood , New Hampshire
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Hi 56S,

Great subject ! I thought of doing something similar when I built the small FF version . Do you think the BW will be enough weight up front for balance here ?

Might make a good Funbuild 4 subject if your interested
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1344856

Cheers,
-John
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Old Dec 06, 2010, 06:59 PM
56S
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I'm thinking the 2204-14 might work but since I have the BW in hand, so it'll be. The weight is one reason I'm considering the RA instead of the Coverite. I did the T'craft in RA Microlite and the only electrics ahead of the CG are the 2204 and the Turnigy 6A ESC. The servos and RX were at the TE of the wing and the 360 lipo just behind the CG. Here's the first couple of Ambroid joints. Medium weight 1/16 to be whittled away later.
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Old Dec 06, 2010, 07:14 PM
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Very Cool!! I will be following along!!

Trey
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 11:43 AM
I think I can glue that..
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Paris, Ontario, Canada EH
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Jumping on for the ride. I have always liked the Staggerwing so will be very interested to see how yours turns out.
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 03:02 PM
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 04:30 PM
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subscribing!
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 04:45 PM
Scott R/C Time Pilot
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Old Dec 07, 2010, 06:39 PM
56S
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A little more work this evening. All notches for the side keel and stringers will be cut on this side of the fuselage and the opposite formers held beside them to mark the notches for the other side. Each former is tacked with CA and a bead of Ambroid is placed with a CA tube on the Ambroid tube. Since the glue shrinks as it dries, glue is place on both the front and rear of the formers where they meet the keels. I hope this keeps the formers from leaning. Each former is braced with some scrap 1/8" balsa glued into 90 degree braces.
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Old Dec 08, 2010, 12:33 AM
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color me subscribed
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 06:52 PM
56S
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I like triangles

Weigh in time. 25 grams. Stringers will add a few more and if I sheet the nose...Well, quite a few more. There's alot of curves in the nose of this aircraft. Sheeting would be a challenge to say the least. LHS had some very light 1/32" that looks like it would go nicely on this build.
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Old Dec 11, 2010, 05:19 AM
56S
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Jimmy Durante gets a nose job.

After gluing in the instrument panel, I looked at various Model 17 photos to see what I needed to do in the upper cabin area and saw that there are some rather large differences in the angles between the firewall and the instrument panel between the Dumas kit and just about every other Beech. Out came the razor saw and off came the firewall. Best I can figure the real Model 17 has a slope of 77 degrees between the instrument panel former and the firewall. The Dumas kit plans call for 83 degrees. Another issue was the angled instrument panel show on the plans. Looks like the real Beech's intrument panel was not this way but actually where the kit's #4 former is. The new firewall is glued and ready for stringers.
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 06:58 AM
56S
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Back on track

The fuselage has been changed to a more scale appearance and work has started on making the tail. The stab and elevator were redrawn to a correct size and the foam board cut. I wrap tape around the parameter of the foam to keep the glue from sticking. Three of the four strips and coated with Titebond and stacked to align prior to taping them down to the foam. Use gentle pressure as the balsa can flatten and tilt. Work quick and cut them oversize. A microwave can be used to speed drying but don't over do it. I heat for 15 seconds and cool for 1 minute. Three or four of these cycles does the trick. YWMV. (Your Wattage May Vary. It's best to let the glued parts to set for about 1/2 hour before nuking to help get a deeper bond.
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 07:36 AM
56S
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The outline of the H stab and elevator are drawn. I'll hinge with floppy disc and use music wire to join the two elevator halves. Working with 1/8" material makes a 1/16 x 2 sandwich for the music wire easy. The elevator will have to be covered and installed in the fuse before the H stab slides in. Anyone care to remind me of this later? I've made this mistake once before.
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