Originally Posted by chas650r

work at it long enough and when the blades are all sanded off it will be smooth

Lmao!!!! Well I would do the balancing with the electrical tape and I've tried it but it never seemed to get better. I tried each blade and it felt the same with all of them. I followed nitrocharges method.

Originally Posted by solentlife

Get that edf unit straightened level ... a small offset will rob thrust and speed .. I know - I made the mistake on my first T45 when I changed the fan unit to the 51mm. I didn't notice the slight 'tilt'... later I noticed when strange sounds came from there - opened up ... straightened it up, cured the sound - was a loose bit of foam !! I'm sure there was a definite improvement.

Too much foam cut ? Make sure entry into and exit out of fan is SMOOOOOOTH ... with no sudden lip.

It only needs small things to rob us of precious thrust ...

Nigel

Cheers Nigel

I'm gonna reposition it today hopefully and not too much glue to hold it,

Are these any good?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22946

Hoping to buy two new jet kits this wk and was thinking of sticking these in them


Cheers



Rod

Originally Posted by Mrgeorgedoors

Cheers Nigel

I'm gonna reposition it today hopefully and not too much glue to hold it,

Are these any good?


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22946

Hoping to buy two new jet kits this wk and was thinking of sticking these in them


Cheers



Rod

I'm wary of advising because I usually get shot down by some ... as I'm a non-conformist.

I've heard good and bad about these alloy units - which I believe are based on the 'older' Lander ? Not being a Lander user - I cannot verify.

But I do know that to fit this - you need to do surgery on the fuselage as it's greater diameter than the stock unit. I heard from one guy that he saw through the foam - it was so thin after carving !

If the reviews under the listing on HK are to be believed then amps vs thrust figs are good .. certainly much less hungry than my set-up - but my set-up produces over 700gr thrust giving 1.2 : 1 ratio. I have about 50A draw, heavy weight ... so mine is a serious power but short flight deal. But the adrenaline rush !!

I could improve it I'm sure judging by others advice - but I don't like playing with rotors diameter ... having had them shatter on me - I respect them !

I'm also a budget conscious guy who basically will not spend out on the alloy jobs ..

My set-up is so cheap - it still surprises me ... but it does hammer the LiPo's !!

Nigel

Originally Posted by gooniac33

I have seen this done too. It took about 5 mins the way that I have seen done. Cut out a whole bunch of 5mm squares of electrical tape, draw a line on the fan and then place the tape on a spot. Hold it in your hand and barely run it up. Move the tape 90 degrees at a time. When it feels better add more tape to that spot until it gets better. once its perfect then mark that spot and move the tape to the inside of the rotor. Dynamically balanced fans actually sounded worse that this method...

Thats my favourite method too - and its free
Nitro does a neat trick, drill holes on opposite side of where the tape is needed to lighten instead of adding tape.
So if a fan is balanced using one of those electronic balancers, you can still feel vibrations in your hand and hear them?

Thanks Nigel

Even the plastic 6bladers are slightly bigger in diameter I had to carve sone foam out of sabre no1 when I fitted the housing and 6blade fan. On the t45 I just replaced the blade and left the stock housing

I've heard they're supposed to reduce the whining sound a lot but don't really want to be carving after seeing how sabre no2 has been carved which has left that gap around the housing so don't really want to do that. Just with hk saying practically plug n play thought I'd try these in my two new edf's im going to buy today hopefully.

On that note then I think ill just stick to the same setup as my sabre no1 or t45 just changed the blade up the esc and whack a 4s in em both, that should do the trick, as I beleive all these edf's are underpowered and the A-6 I want looks seriously underpowered so this should give it the extra umph, if the sabre and t45 are anything to go by then this will be enough.

I've had the experience of one shattering on me which is when I replaced it with the 6 blade and was noticeably different

I've not got I into any figures or anything yet I just chuck it and see what happens but luckily so far I've got everything right as regards to power/amps/wattage etc ......I think!

Rod

Originally Posted by gooniac33

Yep....that's the problem...LOL

Cheers Jim,
Was wondering if that red wire should be connected!!!
Regards,
Nath.


This reminds me of an fyi
to check all the esc to motor connectors mine was held on by one strand of wire
needless to say it ran a bit sketchy....

givem a good tug and look close ...
I had to re solder 3 different connectors on two planes.....

Originally Posted by Mrgeorgedoors

Thanks Nigel....

I have no experience of them, but go on what I hear ... so no g'tee ! Personally I'm not impressed by the 3S version numbers at all and especially when you read peoples tests of it. I had 240gr thrust bog standard with an 800 LiPo ... upped to a 3S 1800 and immediate gain to 350gr ... puts that 3S alloy to shame !

Only way I'd go to the HK alloy is if the 3S version could take a 4S without burning out. My 4S set-up has a 5000kv motor on the 6 blade. Their 4S is on a 4200kv ... even the 3S is only on a 4800kv.

Even the plastic 6bladers are slightly bigger in diameter I had to carve sone foam out of sabre no1 when I fitted the housing and 6blade fan. On the t45 I just replaced the blade and left the stock housing

The 6 blade 50mm shroud was a drop in fit for mine ... a smidgeon tighter than the stock - but it needed that anyway. I did not use any of the extra shroud / tube supplied. The 51mm though needed serious carving to get in and the screws couldn't be relied on to hold the hatch - too near edge of foam. I had to tape the hatch to be sure. In fact I tape the whole hatch joint now ... to stop all leaks.

I've heard they're supposed to reduce the whining sound a lot....

I heard that also.

Just with hk saying practically plug n play thought I'd try these in my two new edf's im going to buy today hopefully.

Can't be hard to fit ... but why they take a metal shroud and make it wider than a plastic ? Surely the metal should be capable of being made to fit better ?

On that note then I think ill just stick to the same setup as my sabre no1 or t45 just changed the blade up the esc and whack a 4s in em both, that should do the trick, as I beleive all these edf's are underpowered and the A-6 I want looks seriously underpowered so this should give it the extra umph, if the sabre and t45 are anything to go by then this will be enough.

That's my way - given that my speeds are similar to Dons for a cheapo set-up ... but of course I eat up batterys quick and also mine is so noisy !!


Good luck ... I miss flying being away working !! Especially my T45 ... (wish they'd do a proper Hawk in the 50mm with BaE scheme ... fed up with US Navy T45's !!)

Nigel

Nigel,
Hobby b sells white T-45 airframes(no contol rods, ect), and both Bannana Hobby, and Toysonics have it in the Red Arrows livery. And i have a question. does anyone know where I can get the horns and rods for a SA T-33 or F9F?

Interesting motors. Fits the Haoye 6-blade housing.

http://www.tenshock-motors.de/Tensho...-Pole-TSVZ1020

Originally Posted by green_flyer

Interesting motors. Fits the Haoye 6-blade housing.

http://www.tenshock-motors.de/Tensho...-Pole-TSVZ1020

Do they? I just measured the Haoye 6-blade housing for a friend who wanted to know, seems to be a tight 20mm, not 20.5mm, but it might work

but they're expensive and have marginal inner cooling with those small holes in front (and if you're using all four screws to tighten it there is no air circulation at all) - and when you're running them in a plastic housing they will be getting hot.

I'd much rather go with the Turnigy 2610 series, cost a fraction, and good quality in my experience (have the 3600kV and 4000kV variants). Also 3mm shaft (or 2.3mm included)

The Lander unit in the 3300kV 10-blade does have inner cooling, plus the shaft extended in the rear (with a flat) to tiighten the rotor. Plus, I was just told, it was easy to dissemble, there was Loctite used but not excessively - just a few trials with the clock method and he got it perfectly balanced across all RPM ranges :-) That's the beauty of the inrunner, I agree. But no closed units for me...

Originally Posted by Valkpilot

Nigel,
Hobby b sells white T-45 airframes(no contol rods, ect), and both Bannana Hobby, and Toysonics have it in the Red Arrows livery. And i have a question. does anyone know where I can get the horns and rods for a SA T-33 or F9F?

I know about them ... HobbyB ships internationally I know as I asked them to add Latvia to their shipping list. Trouble is - HK from China still works out cheaper overall.

As to Red Arrows T45 ... the T45 is actually not same as the original Hawk it derives from ... the nose is different for a start.

Nigel

Originally Posted by green_flyer

Interesting motors. Fits the Haoye 6-blade housing.

http://www.tenshock-motors.de/Tensho...-Pole-TSVZ1020

The Turnigy 2615 series motors fit by cutting the motor tube back to the fixed stators. This does not weaken the shroud in any way as the bit you are cutting out is an extension of the tube. It also allows the motor to be cooled better not having that encompassing tube.
I used to fit inrunner motors - but once I discovered the 2615 goes in - that was it.

I use a 2615 5000kv in my housing and it fits by same way in stock or the 6 blade Haoye shroud.

Nigel

Originally Posted by mopetista

Do they? I just measured the Haoye 6-blade housing for a friend who wanted to know, seems to be a tight 20mm, not 20.5mm, but it might work

but they're expensive and have marginal inner cooling with those small holes in front (and if you're using all four screws to tighten it there is no air circulation at all) - and when you're running them in a plastic housing they will be getting hot.

I'd much rather go with the Turnigy 2610 series, cost a fraction, and good quality in my experience (have the 3600kV and 4000kV variants). Also 3mm shaft (or 2.3mm included)

The Lander unit in the 3300kV 10-blade does have inner cooling, plus the shaft extended in the rear (with a flat) to tiighten the rotor. Plus, I was just told, it was easy to dissemble, there was Loctite used but not excessively - just a few trials with the clock method and he got it perfectly balanced across all RPM ranges :-) That's the beauty of the inrunner, I agree. But no closed units for me...

It fits I even had to put a piece of aluminium tape around it to get a snug fit. No cheating - I didnt ream or sand the housing. I should note - this is the original Haoye 6-blade housing before they made the outer cylinder thicker.

The manufacturer says motor can take 350W, I will report how many flights it lasts. I hear these motors are used in boats, where they get no cooling and have to run for long times. Lander 4600kv has lasted several flights, that one has no cooling holes either.
I have 2610 5000kv. Awful not that good efficiency. 22A, only ~350g thrust dropping below 300 after only 10s (because I use 850mah, I know). Sorry I'm talking rubbish here, looked back at my own test it dropped to 330 after 10s - so not that bad, but amps still a bit high for my liking.
A 30g inrunner can beat it (thats with smaller batteries of course). 2610 will be used only as a last resort only if all my other set ups break down.

looking good (except for no cooling holes ;-)
VERY surprising and going against all reason that a 54g outrunner should be less efficient than a 30g inrunner (at a current level which is the max for a 30A inrunner, that is). Well, my 3600kV and 4000kV stay cool and perform efficiently...
PS: I thought that in boats they would use water cooling (I do in mine, and all boats with any performance (and no fan) that I know do ?!

I'm not being fair in that comparison, the inrunner in this case is one hand made in the USA with top quality materials, vs very cheap turnigy outrunner. Also a lot of the weight of the 2610 is in the long shaft and housing adaptor, in terms of magnet+copper mass they are probably very similar.
You are right, boats do usually use water cooling. Hopefully air cooling will be enough.